7yrs later i still watch this video, i also reference it, BSG back in the day brian, i also watched your video for the intake running control valve for the 2006 Ford Freestar 4.2L
Clear and easy to follow! I can definitely do this by myself, I was thinking it was way more technical than that. Thank you for the guidance! Depending on the temperature outside will determine if I actually DIM or not, but I am totally confident now. THANKS AGAIN!
My 2005 has 400,000 km, I did the driver's side 10 years ago and bought a puller. Now I'm replacing both sides, the puller was worth the money I paid for it, even though it sat in my garage for some time not really doing much of anything. I'm not super optimistic things are going to come apart this easily but we shall see. Great vid, well explained. Thanks!
Great video - especially appreciate the torque specs for reference. I'm doing this job now (also changing struts) and this walk through is the best I've seen.
PS, as I’ve mentioned in the past, you are light years ahead of most of the Utube auto howto-ers. I accidentally hit post before I got to this “disclaimer” about any negative implications of my comments. And the manuals all say the axle nuts are 34 mm, but mine are 33 or 32 as well.
Great info! As usual. One question, shouldn’t you clean the axle splines? I used a small brass wire brush. I also cleaned up the inside surface of the road wheel where it mates to the brake disc. The intermediate wire mount plate seems like just as important to clean thoroughly as the two surfaces it contacts. Also, the dealer shop manual says no lock tight or never seize. And to change the bolts. So I’m thinking some blue lock tight will make bolts ok to reuse if the threads etc. are looking fine.
I was told that changing it in the back is easier then the front cause it’s from wheel drive so it’s not the same process ? Trying to fix my mom bearing but just want to make sure 👀
I stay clear General Motors vehicles because I've had too many over the years that literally had minds of the their own. Stop for no know reason like in that Uplander.
Did both sides of an 08 Uplander and I will tell you this, getting the axle shaft off was a MFer! The air hammer trick didn’t do shit! The hammering on the end of the shaft with the nut on didn’t get it either! What did get it, lots of soaking with rust penetrate and a 20lb sledge. 3 good walks and finally got it to move. Of corse you will be buying a new axle nut and grinding the end of the shaft a little, but you will be able to save the axle. The rest is exactly what Brian showed. One big tip here is never, and I mean NEVER EVER run the nut tight with an impact, you WILL damage the wheel bearing hub. The torque spec on these axle nuts is only 85lbs. Seen way too many times where I had to replace new bearings that other shops put on because they overtorqued this nut!
7yrs later i still watch this video, i also reference it, BSG back in the day brian, i also watched your video for the intake running control valve for the 2006 Ford Freestar 4.2L
Friends swaybar link came off and pulled the tone ring wires, so this work is ahead for me. Great video! Thank you.
Clear and easy to follow! I can definitely do this by myself, I was thinking it was way more technical than that. Thank you for the guidance! Depending on the temperature outside will determine if I actually DIM or not, but I am totally confident now. THANKS AGAIN!
My 2005 has 400,000 km, I did the driver's side 10 years ago and bought a puller. Now I'm replacing both sides, the puller was worth the money I paid for it, even though it sat in my garage for some time not really doing much of anything. I'm not super optimistic things are going to come apart this easily but we shall see. Great vid, well explained. Thanks!
so how did it go?
Worked great. Replaced both front wheel bearings and the car runs fab.@@V8cars2
5 Sar Man! Followed to a T and fixed my humming noise. Thanks!
Thank you!!! Much more informative than some other ones I've seen.
Nice work. Nice to see someone else care about cleaning and restoring and lubricating the necessary parts for the next time it needs attention.
Thanks for the video! You went above and beyond on the process. Very detailed explanation. Thank you.
Very detailed video. I like that you included the socket sizes so I don't have to take the whole set outside.
Thanks a lot for such a detailed video. Really made changing out my hub bearings as easy as it could be.
Professional as always.
Very formal he explained it very well good job
From
Robert
In Regina Saskatchewan 😊
You made this look super easy ha. Nice job! Thats what years of experience and proper preparation will do for you
This is an outstanding video! I will be doing both of my front uplander bearings in a week or two ...thanks for all the info!!
I am not in the best shape anymore, but I think I can pull this off. It might take me a day each,
Thanks for the info!
Great video you saved me a bunch of money. Thank you ❤️
Really enjoy Your Professionalism. Thank You for Educating. Where is Your Business located.
Will do all this in just a couple of days with my uplander -08! Thanks for a great video. /Andreas Husqvarna Sweden
Excellent video!!A lot of help for me
. My respect for you are you a pro. Thank you very much!!
Thank you!!!!👍👍👍
Great video - especially appreciate the torque specs for reference. I'm doing this job now (also changing struts) and this walk through is the best I've seen.
Good video. For penetrating oil, I like to use Kano Labs Kroil Oil. Nice to watch someone else do the work! ;)
Wonderful video 😍 God bless💖
PS, as I’ve mentioned in the past, you are light years ahead of most of the Utube auto howto-ers. I accidentally hit post before I got to this “disclaimer” about any negative implications of my comments. And the manuals all say the axle nuts are 34 mm, but mine are 33 or 32 as well.
Can you reuse the old speed sensor and how do you do it? Thank you!
Great info! As usual. One question, shouldn’t you clean the axle splines? I used a small brass wire brush. I also cleaned up the inside surface of the road wheel where it mates to the brake disc. The intermediate wire mount plate seems like just as important to clean thoroughly as the two surfaces it contacts. Also, the dealer shop manual says no lock tight or never seize. And to change the bolts. So I’m thinking some blue lock tight will make bolts ok to reuse if the threads etc. are looking fine.
Good video thank you. I think my right front wheel bearing is going bad on my 2006 I planted LT I hear it going down the road sort of a roaring sound.
Is this procedure the same on a 2008 uplander ls/
Hi BSG TECHNITION,THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO,
Excuse me, what year is that Uplander?
Great content! Keep it up!
What camera are you using?
Always liked the intro music, where's it from?
I was told that changing it in the back is easier then the front cause it’s from wheel drive so it’s not the same process ? Trying to fix my mom bearing but just want to make sure 👀
Ftm with 96 ft lbs torque I doubt you need Loctite very badly. Have you ever heard of one backing out?
Isn't this the Ford Loco guy?
lol..ok bruce lee ..you kicked the wheel off..that a cool technique
7 months since last video?
I stay clear General Motors vehicles because I've had too many over the years that literally had minds of the their own. Stop for no know reason like in that Uplander.
Did both sides of an 08 Uplander and I will tell you this, getting the axle shaft off was a MFer! The air hammer trick didn’t do shit! The hammering on the end of the shaft with the nut on didn’t get it either! What did get it, lots of soaking with rust penetrate and a 20lb sledge. 3 good walks and finally got it to move. Of corse you will be buying a new axle nut and grinding the end of the shaft a little, but you will be able to save the axle. The rest is exactly what Brian showed. One big tip here is never, and I mean NEVER EVER run the nut tight with an impact, you WILL damage the wheel bearing hub. The torque spec on these axle nuts is only 85lbs. Seen way too many times where I had to replace new bearings that other shops put on because they overtorqued this nut!