I’ve done a lot of different surface textures with a Dremel for tobacco pipe making. You can find a thousand ways with a rotary. We also make these “rustication tools” but not related here.
Walter, have you ever used a needle scaler to add texture to a blade? I saw Jeremy from simple little life do it a few years ago, and have been using it ever since
Could you please make me set of deep clamps for my k03? I often sharpen thick blades with spines 8mm or even 9mm thick and the jaws you make are too small? With all that flash equipment I am sure you could make one? Let me know. Cheers
you know veggi oil like canol works just fine for sanding wet and does not smell. interesting i like to do sections of the blade, then i will do some longer strokes to get the marks even. then do long strokes to get out. i also alternate between going tip to tang, then edge to tang alternating grits (i start at 150 as my grinder has some issues at high grit) but I always end going tip to tang as it looks the best and brings out a hamon. i also like to dip for 20 seconds in ferric chloride to darken the steel between grits ending it without unless its a pattern welded blade.
Here’s a little known secret. Idaho is home to some of the best knife makers in the world. Period. As well as other places obviously. But Bill Koenig, Chris Reeve Knives, run by Anne and his son Tim Reeve, Schenk knives, the OEM of the Divo knives Growler, TOPS Knives, Piranha Knives, if you need a little more common knife brand you’ve probably heard of is Buck Knives. Many many others reside in this great state
Nice work. I've never seen the use of ball peen hammer to put "fake" texture on the steel. Not a fan of the fake look. Rather have it shiny smooth or have actual forging tool marks but not fake ones.
Walter, those 1980s Gerber kitchen knife style bolsters are, no offense, very dated as well as unfunctional. Honestly, I'd see that and pass, automatically. Just too much of a hassle when re-sharpening. If you wanna go old school look into the the pre-1960s Western thin finger-guard but with the bolster relieved a few MMs from the heel. Or better yet, no bolster at all.
@@sttonep242 giant hunting knife = chef knife lol. I mean I like Walter a lot but this thing is useless beyond hanging it on the wall, and even then I don't think it looks particularly good. This thing is made about as primitively as you could get. Basic stock removal, full tang, with handle tacked on, no bolster. Well, there's a giant bolster on the blade, but not on the handle.
thats a giant hunting knife. made about primitive as could be. stock removal, full tang with handle tacked on, no bolster, except for the giant bolster on the blade. The grind, who knows because we cant see it but the profile looks very impractical for a kitchen knife. Kitchen knives are used on cutting boards. I can see at least 3 things that would make this not nice to use on a cutting board, the profile, the handle, the height, likely the balance, and of course that giant bolster.
thx Walter for all i have learnd from you over the last 10 years.
I appreciate all your videos
I really like how you never forget about the little man. Thank you
I’ve done a lot of different surface textures with a Dremel for tobacco pipe making. You can find a thousand ways with a rotary. We also make these “rustication tools” but not related here.
Ha me too
Love the work 👍
love the videos,good job on the knives⚔
Thanks for the video
Walter, have you ever used a needle scaler to add texture to a blade? I saw Jeremy from simple little life do it a few years ago, and have been using it ever since
Very cool!
Very nice pieces...no cryo?
Could you please make me set of deep clamps for my k03? I often sharpen thick blades with spines 8mm or even 9mm thick and the jaws you make are too small?
With all that flash equipment I am sure you could make one?
Let me know.
Cheers
Very cool. How come you didn't use your new laser for laying out the shape of the knives? Ciao, Marco.
Why not texture after finishing the grind lines?
you know veggi oil like canol works just fine for sanding wet and does not smell. interesting i like to do sections of the blade, then i will do some longer strokes to get the marks even. then do long strokes to get out. i also alternate between going tip to tang, then edge to tang alternating grits (i start at 150 as my grinder has some issues at high grit) but I always end going tip to tang as it looks the best and brings out a hamon. i also like to dip for 20 seconds in ferric chloride to darken the steel between grits ending it without unless its a pattern welded blade.
Where can I buy that knife at?
I've made a lot of forged knives now and I never leave them looking half assed and shitty with marks all over them. We have grinders for a reason.
I’m going to have to take a trip over to pops knife supply next time I’m up in powder springs visiting family!
Here’s a little known secret. Idaho is home to some of the best knife makers in the world. Period. As well as other places obviously. But Bill Koenig, Chris Reeve Knives, run by Anne and his son Tim Reeve, Schenk knives, the OEM of the Divo knives Growler, TOPS Knives, Piranha Knives, if you need a little more common knife brand you’ve probably heard of is Buck Knives. Many many others reside in this great state
Why the huge ricasso? A good kitchen knife doesn’t need one
When I forge my knives I leave the actual hammer marks and not superficial stamped in marks.
Nice work. I've never seen the use of ball peen hammer to put "fake" texture on the steel. Not a fan of the fake look. Rather have it shiny smooth or have actual forging tool marks but not fake ones.
Carbide is brittle. I suggest glasses.
Nice hack!
Walter, those 1980s Gerber kitchen knife style bolsters are, no offense, very dated as well as unfunctional. Honestly, I'd see that and pass, automatically. Just too much of a hassle when re-sharpening. If you wanna go old school look into the the pre-1960s Western thin finger-guard but with the bolster relieved a few MMs from the heel. Or better yet, no bolster at all.
Do you have a website with your knives? I’d be interested in seeing them.
Yeah, that bolster is useless. It just makes things more difficult.
@@sttonep242 giant hunting knife = chef knife lol. I mean I like Walter a lot but this thing is useless beyond hanging it on the wall, and even then I don't think it looks particularly good. This thing is made about as primitively as you could get. Basic stock removal, full tang, with handle tacked on, no bolster. Well, there's a giant bolster on the blade, but not on the handle.
thats a giant hunting knife. made about primitive as could be. stock removal, full tang with handle tacked on, no bolster, except for the giant bolster on the blade. The grind, who knows because we cant see it but the profile looks very impractical for a kitchen knife. Kitchen knives are used on cutting boards. I can see at least 3 things that would make this not nice to use on a cutting board, the profile, the handle, the height, likely the balance, and of course that giant bolster.
Curious why you don't draw the bevel all the way to the back of the knife
Thats a giant hunting knife with a poorly designed handle, not a chefs knife mate. I like ya, but what the heck is that?