Love the video by the way, really informative, just i didnt know what to do with tail light wire to be able to connect the led wire to it, but i got alot out of this vid keep it up
Lol. It is a pretty crazy multimeter. It can do almost anything. Worth the price but I wish it was a bit smaller overall tho. Glad you like it! It was pretty pricey.
Bout time you made another vid been awhile. Hows she treating you im coming on 23k miles on my 2014 zx10r and ive been debating on pulling the engine and replace piston rings all gaskets a basic rebuild. Valve job was done at 19k all were in spec. OR i sell the bike and but the 2019 zx10r. Fork oil is due to be replaced and my clutch also habe some glazed over clutch fibers. I see your at 33k thats why im asking.
Lol XD thanks. I've noticed that my revenue takes a dump during winter which is why posting on this channel isn't a super priority. I've been dumping my energy into skillshare lately. As far as the bike, no issues. She is running like a top. Only thing is that i noticed is that my brake switch is corroded and will need to be replaced. That will be my next project. I did my valve inspection at 20k and everything was in spec. Rebuilt my forks a while back and fork oil is due to be replaced as well but im leaving it in there for a while longer. Unless you are noticing a big drop in compression in one of your cylinders or coolant in your oil there is no need to rebuild the motor. You are only at 20k. Although thats considered high for a supersport, it's wasteful when the motors should easily double that mileage before concern. Sounds like your clutch could be scuffed or replaced tho. Glad to hear from you.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss compression test will be a deciding factor i guess. Lotta different compression gauges out there. Any recommendations because the cheaper harbor freight ones arent accurate usually? Im gonna checkout that skillshare also.
@@kawilifezx10r23 the compression tool i recommend is from motion pro: amzn.to/2Qz217Z As far as skillshare, the link to my courses is in my description of this video and i do Rubik's Cube tutorials. Once i exhaust my cube videos i'll start posting motorcycle vids there.
I’m confused. You identified the light kit as having a high draw. You changed the source of power for the light kit. How did that change the amount of draw the light kit used? Did you move it from a hot circuit to a switched circuit?
Yes. Exactly. That way it isn't connected to the battery when the bike is off. The light kit only has power while the bike's ignition is on. Hope that clears things up!
I am thinking about doing the same thing, moving my underglow to tail light wire. i guess my confusion(my first time going to do so) do I have to cut and expose the wires inside tail light? Do i cut it all the way and then solder it along with the led wire or how do i do it, i what to do/ wire strip led wire, but how do i prep the tail light wire is the sum up question here i guess
The number 2.4 in the formula comes from the assumption that a well-functioning battery should be able to sustain a parasitic draw for about 24 hours before it’s significantly discharged. So, if you divide the amp-hour rating of the battery by 2.4, you get the maximum allowable current draw in amps that the battery should be able to sustain for 24 hours.
why do we divide by 2.4? is that always for this specific equation? so if I use that same equation mine would be 8.6 / 2.4 = 3.58mAh is that correct? m trying to figure out which device on my bike is drawing power from my battery, its either gonna be my fog lights, or my heated. grips or both.
The number 2.4 in the formula comes from the assumption that a well-functioning battery should be able to sustain a parasitic draw for about 24 hours before it’s significantly discharged. So, if you divide the amp-hour rating of the battery by 2.4, you get the maximum allowable current draw in amps that the battery should be able to sustain for 24 hours1.
I installed led headlight and it kept draining my battery , just as you mentioned it, I wired an inline fuse from the battery to pen 30, and 85 to the switch with another fuse, So if I wire pen 30 to my brake light or ignition that will solve my parasitic drain ??
I don't have the relay numbers memorized. I just use a multimeter to test which is which then go from there. You need a connection from the battery positive to the relay, then from the relay to ground with the headlight in between. Then you need a signal from your headlight switch to the relay with power, then relay to ground. Hard to explain but essentially a relay should have 2 inputs and 2 outputs.
So I had an led kit installed on my Bike with a remote. Apparently it's draining my battery even when off. If I disconnect the pig tail each time I'm not riding will that turn off the draw?
If you disconnect it from your battery, yes. What was draining the battery on my bike was the "brain" of the light kit waiting for a remote signal 24/7. So as long as the brain is disconnected from the battery, that will stop your draining issue.
No problem. I noticed that I was getting the draining issue shortly after I installed the light kit which was directly connected to my battery for power. Naturally I was a little suspicious of it being the problem. So easy enough to test it simply by unplugging it from there. If that didn't fix the issue, I would've just started pulling fuses from the fuse box until the mA level went down then look at what was connected to that system. I hope that helps answer your question.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks the thing is for my motorcycle i only have one fuse that controls the whole electrical system what should i do to test step by step from where comes the parasitic draining thanks
@@magnfiyerlmoro3301 many motorcycles have a single master fuse for the whole bike then a fusebox of multiple fuses as well. Often times in a different location than the master fuse. For example, on my bike, the master fuse is under my seat and my fusebox is behind my headlight under some plastic. Just be certain that you don't have a fuse box. If you are sure you dont have one, I would start disconnecting individual major electrical components to see if the mA drops. Such as the fuel pump, headlight/ignition, turn signals, brake light, pull relays, etc. More labor but that's what you would pretty much be stuck with.
@@ben54322 @Alexis Benitez sorry. I don't mean to sound rude. But I'm not fully understanding what you mean. What was going on was that my light kit was connected to my battery and wasn't supposed to use much energy. However; the brain of the unit was using power to sense the remote. I figured this out by testing current draw through my multimeter. This amount of draw was enough to drain my battery after about a week or two. So then, I connected my light kit to my brake light since I had a lot of room to increase amperage on that circuit. Doing this made it where the light kit will not work unless the bike is turned on thus eliminating my parasitic draw issue. I hope I managed to answer your question in this explanation. If I didn't answer your question, please ask it again as detailed as you can. Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss you helped me. I will find my parasitic draw on my bike. I will make a video to see if i do it right . Thank you for taking your time on helping the community of bikers
Excellent content! I still have a battery draw issue. I may tackle it. Thanks
Love the video by the way, really informative, just i didnt know what to do with tail light wire to be able to connect the led wire to it, but i got alot out of this vid keep it up
Excellent instructions.
Thank you so much for your kind words.
YOUR MULTIMETER LOOKS VERY CRAZY
Lol. It is a pretty crazy multimeter. It can do almost anything. Worth the price but I wish it was a bit smaller overall tho. Glad you like it! It was pretty pricey.
What will make the blue light the high beam to stay on even when the high beam is off
Bout time you made another vid been awhile. Hows she treating you im coming on 23k miles on my 2014 zx10r and ive been debating on pulling the engine and replace piston rings all gaskets a basic rebuild. Valve job was done at 19k all were in spec. OR i sell the bike and but the 2019 zx10r. Fork oil is due to be replaced and my clutch also habe some glazed over clutch fibers. I see your at 33k thats why im asking.
Lol XD thanks. I've noticed that my revenue takes a dump during winter which is why posting on this channel isn't a super priority. I've been dumping my energy into skillshare lately. As far as the bike, no issues. She is running like a top. Only thing is that i noticed is that my brake switch is corroded and will need to be replaced. That will be my next project. I did my valve inspection at 20k and everything was in spec. Rebuilt my forks a while back and fork oil is due to be replaced as well but im leaving it in there for a while longer. Unless you are noticing a big drop in compression in one of your cylinders or coolant in your oil there is no need to rebuild the motor. You are only at 20k. Although thats considered high for a supersport, it's wasteful when the motors should easily double that mileage before concern. Sounds like your clutch could be scuffed or replaced tho. Glad to hear from you.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss compression test will be a deciding factor i guess. Lotta different compression gauges out there. Any recommendations because the cheaper harbor freight ones arent accurate usually? Im gonna checkout that skillshare also.
@@kawilifezx10r23 the compression tool i recommend is from motion pro: amzn.to/2Qz217Z
As far as skillshare, the link to my courses is in my description of this video and i do Rubik's Cube tutorials. Once i exhaust my cube videos i'll start posting motorcycle vids there.
I’m confused.
You identified the light kit as having a high draw.
You changed the source of power for the light kit.
How did that change the amount of draw the light kit used? Did you move it from a hot circuit to a switched circuit?
Yes. Exactly. That way it isn't connected to the battery when the bike is off. The light kit only has power while the bike's ignition is on. Hope that clears things up!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss
It did! Thanks! Ride safe.
Cool video, thanks
Thanks for letting me know what you think. I hope it helps
I am thinking about doing the same thing, moving my underglow to tail light wire. i guess my confusion(my first time going to do so) do I have to cut and expose the wires inside tail light? Do i cut it all the way and then solder it along with the led wire or how do i do it, i what to do/ wire strip led wire, but how do i prep the tail light wire is the sum up question here i guess
Thanks for the video. Where did you get the 2,4 factor @1:40 ?
The number 2.4 in the formula comes from the assumption that a well-functioning battery should be able to sustain a parasitic draw for about 24 hours before it’s significantly discharged. So, if you divide the amp-hour rating of the battery by 2.4, you get the maximum allowable current draw in amps that the battery should be able to sustain for 24 hours.
You mentioned your battery is 6Ah. But is that for 10hr or 20hr? How do we incorporate this to the formula?
20hr: 20 ÷ 2.4 = 8.3mAh
why do we divide by 2.4? is that always for this specific equation? so if I use that same equation mine would be 8.6 / 2.4 = 3.58mAh is that correct? m trying to figure out which device on my bike is drawing power from my battery, its either gonna be my fog lights, or my heated. grips or both.
I guess it's a mystery
The number 2.4 in the formula comes from the assumption that a well-functioning battery should be able to sustain a parasitic draw for about 24 hours before it’s significantly discharged. So, if you divide the amp-hour rating of the battery by 2.4, you get the maximum allowable current draw in amps that the battery should be able to sustain for 24 hours1.
I installed led headlight and it kept draining my battery , just as you mentioned it, I wired an inline fuse from the battery to pen 30, and 85 to the switch with another fuse, So if I wire pen 30 to my brake light or ignition that will solve my parasitic drain ??
I don't have the relay numbers memorized. I just use a multimeter to test which is which then go from there. You need a connection from the battery positive to the relay, then from the relay to ground with the headlight in between. Then you need a signal from your headlight switch to the relay with power, then relay to ground. Hard to explain but essentially a relay should have 2 inputs and 2 outputs.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I just got done with it, it's all set now thanks I appreciate the time you took to answer me back, 🙏🤙🏍
So I had an led kit installed on my Bike with a remote. Apparently it's draining my battery even when off. If I disconnect the pig tail each time I'm not riding will that turn off the draw?
If you disconnect it from your battery, yes. What was draining the battery on my bike was the "brain" of the light kit waiting for a remote signal 24/7. So as long as the brain is disconnected from the battery, that will stop your draining issue.
Please what was your process to find out what was the cable for lights that you disconnected to test, (im a newbie) thanks
No problem. I noticed that I was getting the draining issue shortly after I installed the light kit which was directly connected to my battery for power. Naturally I was a little suspicious of it being the problem. So easy enough to test it simply by unplugging it from there. If that didn't fix the issue, I would've just started pulling fuses from the fuse box until the mA level went down then look at what was connected to that system. I hope that helps answer your question.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks the thing is for my motorcycle i only have one fuse that controls the whole electrical system what should i do to test step by step from where comes the parasitic draining thanks
@@magnfiyerlmoro3301 many motorcycles have a single master fuse for the whole bike then a fusebox of multiple fuses as well. Often times in a different location than the master fuse. For example, on my bike, the master fuse is under my seat and my fusebox is behind my headlight under some plastic. Just be certain that you don't have a fuse box. If you are sure you dont have one, I would start disconnecting individual major electrical components to see if the mA drops. Such as the fuel pump, headlight/ignition, turn signals, brake light, pull relays, etc. More labor but that's what you would pretty much be stuck with.
How is it possible if the led light draws current if it's off???
What do you mean exactly?
@@TheMotorcycleBoss when u measure it reads that it' drawing energy. Then you connect wires to. Other cables and it doesn't draw energy as before.
@@ben54322 @Alexis Benitez sorry. I don't mean to sound rude. But I'm not fully understanding what you mean. What was going on was that my light kit was connected to my battery and wasn't supposed to use much energy. However; the brain of the unit was using power to sense the remote. I figured this out by testing current draw through my multimeter. This amount of draw was enough to drain my battery after about a week or two. So then, I connected my light kit to my brake light since I had a lot of room to increase amperage on that circuit. Doing this made it where the light kit will not work unless the bike is turned on thus eliminating my parasitic draw issue. I hope I managed to answer your question in this explanation. If I didn't answer your question, please ask it again as detailed as you can. Ride safe! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss you helped me. I will find my parasitic draw on my bike. I will make a video to see if i do it right . Thank you for taking your time on helping the community of bikers
So .40 milliamps is normal right?
0.4 milliamps is basically nothing. 0.4 amps on the other hand is quite a lot. I know your comment is pretty old, just chiming in.