Thie 'How do I Iron my kilt" question is such a common one on forums and groups. This is very informative and will be of use to many folks including myself. Thank you.
I certainly wish I'd watched this before I went and pressed my newly finished kilt...without using a bloody press cloth between the iron and the kilt. Thankfully only wound up with a small scorch march but man, not a mistake I will ever make again.
I marched in the Alexandria, I Virginia Christmas walk on Saturday last. It rained the entire route and after. I got soaked, then had to drive two hours in my wet kilt. Needless to say, it wrecked the pleats! I used your method and got everything back in order. I have to say I was nervous putting iron to wool, even with a damp pressing cloth, but there was no way I was wearing it until it was pressed and I wasn’t going to trust anyone else to do it. Thanks for this video. It was a huge help!
Not shore if this gave me more confidence, or less confidences. But very Informative none the less. Was just watching your video's and looking at your website. I hope when I'm in the market for A new 16oz Kilt, You are still in Operation. Your website and Video's, have sold me to your attention to detail.
I just purchased a rather 'inexpensive' kilt online with a boxing day sale and some Christmas money. It doesn't stand up to my full wool (full price tag) kilt, but it's nice to not worry about it as I wear it around. However, it arrived in a bag and was badly pressed, each pleat was very pie shaped (was that how you described it?). So I've followed your videos, basted the pleats in place and pressed it and it sits much nicer now. Just wanted to say thanks for the information.
Thank you very much for the table 'ironing board' suggestion! Brilliant suggestion! I'll definitely give it a go!!! Thanks! My only question is, why is there elastic on the inside of the kilt? I've never seen that before and I've seen a few kilts. Is it a military thing?
You're very welcome! Yes, it's an Army thing which - if not used by every highland regiment - has been used by the Seaforth Highlanders since before 1909.
Hello, I hugely appreciate you share your know-how on kilt making and maintenance. How long do you let the kilt dry, please? How do you know the kilt is dry enough? I suppose that if someone wished to actually wash a kilt, they will need to first entirely baste it again (not only the pleats) to secure it entirely and let it soak in a body-temperature water with natural soap (ideally the soap could be enriched with with lanoline and some lavandular essential oil). Do you know about any treatment to waterproof (genuine) kilts so that the pleats would stay in place even under a heavy rain? Unrelated question now. Do you have an apprentice that will follow your steps already?
Thank you for your kind feedback! Answers in order: 1) Until it's dry! (not being TOO cheeky here, but I'll feel the cloth - front and back, as well as within the pleats - with the back of my hand, because my fingertips and palms are as rough as sandpaper. washing a kilt - now, THAT is a very good question, and one I've been meaning to address for years now (I keep joking about it - scene opens with me dumping a pint of beer in my lap and saying "Oh NO -whatever shall I DO?" etc) I think that you're on the right track, except that I wouldn't bother basting it until after it had been washed and had dried - wet wool is VERY difficult to sew!. I believe that if the kilt is made of good-enough cloth it should (mostly) hold its press - I'll show you a kilt that I made nearly 30 years ago which hasn't seen an iron since the day it was made, yet I've run a marathon in it, forded streams and slept rough in it, yet if I were to be summoned to the Palace tomorrow it would pass the Gentleman Usher's inspection!
Hello it is very useful. My problem now ist to do a same with a Black solid. You don't have there a tartan for the orientation. Regards and thanks for help.
Thank you for a great video! I want to try to make a kilt myself. I am an educated tailor and seamstress, so I want to give it a go. With all the humility for this trade, ofcourse! But I have a question; We were always told in school that you should never press wool. You can steam it while holding it in place, but that should be enough. But never press it, because that would press the fibres together and destroy the slight "puff" of the fabric. What is your take on that? Is there any instructionale books you can recommend on the whole kilt making subejct? Thanks again!
Hmmm, I would like to meet that instructor that told you that. They weren't 'wrong', but how else may one achieve a proper crease? There IS one book that appears to present itself as The Stand-alone Source but I hesitate to recommend it, as there are several curious omissions
Enjoy watching your informative videos … but imagine my boost of enthusiasm when I sean your beret …. Are you (like me) a former sapper ?? Happy days brother UBIQUE
Any suggestion to what to do if you live in a small student dorm? I really dont have space to press the kilt and is frustrated that the pleads are wrinkly.
hhmmmmm - that's a very good question! If you can find a large/clean piece of cardboard, you could press the kilt on the floor. - lay the cardboard on the floor -spread a wool blanket (or a piece of 'natural - undyed - canvas on top - press the kilt. The cardboard/canvas will project the finish on the floor from the wet heat, and the canvas will keep your kilt from being 'contaminated' by colour or print on the cardboard. I remember doing this while living in barracks back in the 70s...waxing those floors was Pure Hell, but the cardboard acted as enough of an insulator that the heat didn't cause the wax to 'blush'.
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Thank you very much for the help, it is noted down. Although I dont have a proper iron yet so I think I will find a professional cleaner to press it.. I dont have other options currently
@@christoffernielsen5269 be careful - try to find a shop where the work is done 'in house' (rather than being sent off to another location) so that you have a chance to talk to the person who will actually do the work. good luck!
Robert MacDonald, Bespoke Kiltmaker Sorry I have been reading the art of kilt making by Barbara Tewksbury and Elsi Stvehmeyer. And they say to baste the Kilt straight not in an arch otherwise the pleats get splayed. With shaping done in the apron and the fell. If you have the book I’m referring to page 86. It doesn’t contradict that advice when walking through pressing the Kilt on page 103. Is the arc used in the Kilt in the video not enough to splay the pleats ?
oh, the BASTING - I thought you were referring to the taper of the fell. The pleats ARE basted in as nearly a straight line here as may be achieved - one must make allowance for the client's physique. This is 'rack of eye' - the ability to clearly picture the client's individualities of form in your mind. We each have our own methods(I follow the system of my first mentor, a Regimental Master-Tailor who learned his trade in the years before the Great War), but I consider there to be a number of curious omissions in that book
Just noticed you press method 1)Nowadays we have modern Steam irons with a ceramic sole, no need for extra sprays damp cloths and so on. 2) a Kilt when made has the pleat width at the depth of stitching and the bottom ( Selve Edge) of the kilt the same width ,meaning when you press the Kilt with your incorrect methode the pleats will be wider at the bottom (selve edge) Just for Info
....but I will address the points raised: "Modern steam irons with ceramic soles" are all very well for hobbyists or 'one-offs', but there are 2 reasons why they cannot compete with the 'real' (read 'heavy' - and often also 'antique') irons used by professional tailors. a) modern irons don't weigh enough - and thus they lose heat very quickly, which means time-wasted as the iron heats up again and b) the flabby jet of steam that dribbles out of them is inferior to the blast of steam that erupts when a properly-hot iron touches the wet pressing cloth. The pressing cloth also serves to protect the wool cloth from being 'glazed' by the touch of the iron. Perhaps the camera angle makes a false impression - the pleats of my kilts hang perfectly parallel from the fell to the selvedge.
Thie 'How do I Iron my kilt" question is such a common one on forums and groups. This is very informative and will be of use to many folks including myself. Thank you.
You are very welcome - I'm only too happy to help!
I certainly wish I'd watched this before I went and pressed my newly finished kilt...without using a bloody press cloth between the iron and the kilt. Thankfully only wound up with a small scorch march but man, not a mistake I will ever make again.
Thank you for the ironing kilts that I can use on my festival work kilt! Always good to look as sharp as possible!
I marched in the Alexandria, I Virginia Christmas walk on Saturday last. It rained the entire route and after. I got soaked, then had to drive two hours in my wet kilt. Needless to say, it wrecked the pleats! I used your method and got everything back in order. I have to say I was nervous putting iron to wool, even with a damp pressing cloth, but there was no way I was wearing it until it was pressed and I wasn’t going to trust anyone else to do it. Thanks for this video. It was a huge help!
Not shore if this gave me more confidence, or less confidences.
But very Informative none the less.
Was just watching your video's and looking at your website.
I hope when I'm in the market for A new 16oz Kilt, You are still in Operation. Your website and Video's, have sold me to your attention to detail.
I'm on the "Work 'til I Die Retirement Plan", so I intend to be around for some years yet!
I just purchased a rather 'inexpensive' kilt online with a boxing day sale and some Christmas money. It doesn't stand up to my full wool (full price tag) kilt, but it's nice to not worry about it as I wear it around. However, it arrived in a bag and was badly pressed, each pleat was very pie shaped (was that how you described it?). So I've followed your videos, basted the pleats in place and pressed it and it sits much nicer now. Just wanted to say thanks for the information.
I'm very glad to have helped!
Dedication !x
Excellent tutorial !!!! Thank you.
It really was very useful. Thanks very much!
Thank you very much for the table 'ironing board' suggestion! Brilliant suggestion! I'll definitely give it a go!!! Thanks! My only question is, why is there elastic on the inside of the kilt? I've never seen that before and I've seen a few kilts. Is it a military thing?
You're very welcome!
Yes, it's an Army thing which - if not used by every highland regiment - has been used by the Seaforth Highlanders since before 1909.
Hello,
I hugely appreciate you share your know-how on kilt making and maintenance.
How long do you let the kilt dry, please?
How do you know the kilt is dry enough?
I suppose that if someone wished to actually wash a kilt, they will need to first entirely baste it again (not only the pleats) to secure it entirely and let it soak in a body-temperature water with natural soap (ideally the soap could be enriched with with lanoline and some lavandular essential oil).
Do you know about any treatment to waterproof (genuine) kilts so that the pleats would stay in place even under a heavy rain?
Unrelated question now.
Do you have an apprentice that will follow your steps already?
Thank you for your kind feedback!
Answers in order:
1) Until it's dry! (not being TOO cheeky here, but I'll feel the cloth - front and back, as well as within the pleats - with the back of my hand, because my fingertips and palms are as rough as sandpaper.
washing a kilt - now, THAT is a very good question, and one I've been meaning to address for years now (I keep joking about it - scene opens with me dumping a pint of beer in my lap and saying "Oh NO -whatever shall I DO?" etc)
I think that you're on the right track, except that I wouldn't bother basting it until after it had been washed and had dried - wet wool is VERY difficult to sew!.
I believe that if the kilt is made of good-enough cloth it should (mostly) hold its press - I'll show you a kilt that I made nearly 30 years ago which hasn't seen an iron since the day it was made, yet I've run a marathon in it, forded streams and slept rough in it, yet if I were to be summoned to the Palace tomorrow it would pass the Gentleman Usher's inspection!
Hello it is very useful. My problem now ist to do a same with a Black solid. You don't have there a tartan for the orientation. Regards and thanks for help.
Hmmm - I've done a few solid-colour kilts and I ran into that myself. I'll give it some thought and then post my findings - thanks for reminding me!
Thank you for a great video! I want to try to make a kilt myself. I am an educated tailor and seamstress, so I want to give it a go. With all the humility for this trade, ofcourse!
But I have a question; We were always told in school that you should never press wool. You can steam it while holding it in place, but that should be enough. But never press it, because that would press the fibres together and destroy the slight "puff" of the fabric. What is your take on that?
Is there any instructionale books you can recommend on the whole kilt making subejct? Thanks again!
Hmmm, I would like to meet that instructor that told you that. They weren't 'wrong', but how else may one achieve a proper crease?
There IS one book that appears to present itself as The Stand-alone Source but I hesitate to recommend it, as there are several curious omissions
Enjoy watching your informative videos … but imagine my boost of enthusiasm when I sean your beret …. Are you (like me) a former sapper ?? Happy days brother UBIQUE
Thanks , I also iron on tables !
Any suggestion to what to do if you live in a small student dorm? I really dont have space to press the kilt and is frustrated that the pleads are wrinkly.
hhmmmmm - that's a very good question! If you can find a large/clean piece of cardboard, you could press the kilt on the floor.
- lay the cardboard on the floor
-spread a wool blanket (or a piece of 'natural - undyed - canvas on top
- press the kilt.
The cardboard/canvas will project the finish on the floor from the wet heat, and the canvas will keep your kilt from being 'contaminated' by colour or print on the cardboard.
I remember doing this while living in barracks back in the 70s...waxing those floors was Pure Hell, but the cardboard acted as enough of an insulator that the heat didn't cause the wax to 'blush'.
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Thank you very much for the help, it is noted down. Although I dont have a proper iron yet so I think I will find a professional cleaner to press it.. I dont have other options currently
@@christoffernielsen5269 be careful - try to find a shop where the work is done 'in house' (rather than being sent off to another location) so that you have a chance to talk to the person who will actually do the work. good luck!
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 will do. Does this method apply to polyester/viscose aswell or only wool?
@@christoffernielsen5269 I don't know about poly/viscose material - I only work with wool - so I suggest that you proceed with caution!
I've stretched the fabric on the front apron ironing and the pattern now looks wonky, does anyone know how to fix this?
I have some questions for kilt care, is there any way I can contact you?
I'll be happy to help!
You may reach me at info(at)westcoastkilts(dot)com
Why is it in an Arc? should it be straight
It's an 'arc' to accommodate the 'section of a cone' formed by your hips and backside.
Robert MacDonald, Bespoke Kiltmaker is that meant to be achieved by the fell.
Yes, and also by the way it's pressed.
Robert MacDonald, Bespoke Kiltmaker Sorry I have been reading the art of kilt making by Barbara Tewksbury and Elsi Stvehmeyer. And they say to baste the Kilt straight not in an arch otherwise the pleats get splayed. With shaping done in the apron and the fell. If you have the book I’m referring to page 86. It doesn’t contradict that advice when walking through pressing the Kilt on page 103. Is the arc used in the Kilt in the video not enough to splay the pleats ?
oh, the BASTING - I thought you were referring to the taper of the fell. The pleats ARE basted in as nearly a straight line here as may be achieved - one must make allowance for the client's physique. This is 'rack of eye' - the ability to clearly picture the client's individualities of form in your mind.
We each have our own methods(I follow the system of my first mentor, a Regimental Master-Tailor who learned his trade in the years before the Great War), but I consider there to be a number of curious omissions in that book
Just noticed you press method
1)Nowadays we have modern Steam irons with a ceramic sole, no need for extra sprays damp cloths and so on.
2) a Kilt when made has the pleat width at the depth of stitching and the bottom ( Selve Edge) of the kilt the same width ,meaning when you press the Kilt with your incorrect methode the pleats will be wider at the bottom (selve edge)
Just for Info
(Sigh) What's this numptie's opinion worth, given that he/she/it can't even spell?
....but I will address the points raised:
"Modern steam irons with ceramic soles" are all very well for hobbyists or 'one-offs', but there are 2 reasons why they cannot compete with the 'real' (read 'heavy' - and often also 'antique') irons used by professional tailors.
a) modern irons don't weigh enough - and thus they lose heat very quickly, which means time-wasted as the iron heats up again and
b) the flabby jet of steam that dribbles out of them is inferior to the blast of steam that erupts when a properly-hot iron touches the wet pressing cloth.
The pressing cloth also serves to protect the wool cloth from being 'glazed' by the touch of the iron.
Perhaps the camera angle makes a false impression - the pleats of my kilts hang perfectly parallel from the fell to the selvedge.
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 And they're quite a cheeky bastard at that!!