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Robert MacDonald, Bespoke Kiltmaker
Canada
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2014
-This channel began as a record of the 'rescue archeology' phase of the renovation and seismic upgrade of the Seaforth Armoury in Vancouver BC.
It has since expanded because I was (and remain) determined that my methods of work and the stories that one picks up over a lifetime would not be lost when I eventually outlive my wits or die - and so my aims are:
- to be a reference and source of inspiration for other kilt-makers, particularly the 'novice',
- To educate and inform those who have no intent to ever become kilt-makers, so that they will become knowledgeable and discriminating customers.
- A source-document and record of and for the Scottish Diaspora
- a record of some lesser-known stories and historical minutiae of my old regiment: The Seaforth Highlanders of Canada
It has since expanded because I was (and remain) determined that my methods of work and the stories that one picks up over a lifetime would not be lost when I eventually outlive my wits or die - and so my aims are:
- to be a reference and source of inspiration for other kilt-makers, particularly the 'novice',
- To educate and inform those who have no intent to ever become kilt-makers, so that they will become knowledgeable and discriminating customers.
- A source-document and record of and for the Scottish Diaspora
- a record of some lesser-known stories and historical minutiae of my old regiment: The Seaforth Highlanders of Canada
วีดีโอ
That Alteration, part 4
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I really can't proceed any farther until I've done a test fitting....
That alteration, part 3
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This got a bit funny as a client showed up a bit early for his forward-fitting and I just let the camera roll for a short while - I didn't want to shoot a 2nd take because I wanted you to see the steps that I'd taken.
That Alteration, part 2
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I've finished tearing it down, now to sew it up!
The McFarlane Kilt, part 1
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There may or may not be anything new to learn here, but I've found that more and more clients want to see how their kilt was made.
Yet another alteration, or "Rob changes his opinion in light of new evidence!"
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Semper aliquid discendum kiltmaking - there's always something to be learned in kiltmaking!
The box pleated kilt (and plaid) part 8
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and yes, at 29:17 I said 'vertical' when I meant 'horizontal'....
The box pleated kilt part 7c
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In which I share an all-but-forgotten trick for pressing the box-pleated kilt; see it at 1:18 here: th-cam.com/video/g7UZDNOakgw/w-d-xo.html
The box pleated kilt part 5
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...I became tired of writing the entire title.....
A new way to sew a box pleated kilt, part 4
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The client has come for a trial fitting - always a good idea - and now I'm carrying on from there. He was very happy with it - which means that I'm delighted.
To make a kilt pleated to the sett part 7
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To make a kilt pleated to the sett part 7
To make a kilt pleated to the sett part six
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To make a kilt pleated to the sett part six
To make a kilt pleated to the sett part 5
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To make a kilt pleated to the sett part 5
To make a kilt pleated to the sett part four
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To make a kilt pleated to the sett part four
To make a kilt pleated to the sett part 3
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To make a kilt pleated to the sett part 3
To Make a kilt pleated to the sett, part 2
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To Make a kilt pleated to the sett, part 2
To Make a kilt pleated to the sett, introduction
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To Make a kilt pleated to the sett, introduction
A new way to sew a box-pleated kilt, part 3
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A new way to sew a box-pleated kilt, part 3
A new way to sew box-pleated kilts, part 2.
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A new way to sew box-pleated kilts, part 2.
A Walk Amongst the Stones: 11 November 2024
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A Walk Amongst the Stones: 11 November 2024
The final fitting of this particular Sow's Ear
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The final fitting of this particular Sow's Ear
A new way to make a box pleat kilt, part 1
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A new way to make a box pleat kilt, part 1
making a kilt and plaid in real time tutorial, conclusion
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making a kilt and plaid in real time tutorial, conclusion
Making a kilt in real time tutorial part part 26
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Making a kilt in real time tutorial part part 26
Making a kilt in real time tutorial part 25
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Making a kilt in real time tutorial part 25
I have been very grateful to your instructional videos. I have rewatched quite a number to help me construct a kilt for my brother in law to be and it has saved me to put in extra fabric at both the inside and outside aprons as since the first measurements he has increased by 4" and I am altering what I have done to fit with instructions with my sister to be a little less generous until after they are married. I still have a few months till the date so I may just pin it together till the month before. I'm more used to dress making and costumes but it has been enjoyable to make this kilt as professionally as you have instructed. Again thank you.
Thank you for this tutorial! I just thrifted a wool Pendleton skirt and wasn’t sure how to restore the pleats. You’ve explained it perfectly!
Fraser Kirkbright was the weavers in Vancouver. When I was young, mom would go to the store to buy bolt ends for her skirts. Not sure they called it that back then.
Still looks odd. It makes it look like a mistake
If the horizontal elements of the tartan would not be horizontal it would look more like a mistake. This nobody will notice.
👍
Wouldn't a good canvas prevent those stitches to pull the yarns of the cloth? Could you make a close-up of those stitches or are they really invisible.
Putting the camera up there with the full screen image showing is MUCH better for my old eyes. 🥳👍 How come some of the times it is 1/3 screen and some of the time full screen?
Just finished a bigger haversack for Waterloo 2025.
When I baste my pleats - I do 3 - 5 rows. Depends on the length and how much work needs to be done on ironing. But I space them every 10cm apart or so, so it really holds a crisp line...especially on box pleats
I can generally get by with two rows, placed at the 1/3 and 2/3 for knife pleats,. and 3 rows for boxpleats as seen here.
This has been an excellent series Robert. Is there any chance you could display a full dress shoulder plaid so that we could see how exactly it is meant to be worn? You posted a video years ago in which you had one on, but the lighting was so low it was difficult to see. Thanks very much for all of your great work.
noted, but I don't know when/if I'll receive an order for one...
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Understood. Thanks again.
Is your clients hip something that a chiropractor could help correct? I know I have had one leg shorter than the other and it was corrected with a chiropractor. Just a thought. I love learning from your videos.
that would be completely unnecessary . many if not most bodies are slightly asymmetrical and the person usually goes through life without being the least aware of it. - Go to a 'real' shoe store - the kind where they have those sliding guages to measure your feet - and speak to a 'real' shoe-saleperson (as opposed to a barely-trained retail drone) you'll learn that many people have one foot larger than the other. - Go to an Optometrist and learn that not only may one of your eyes see better than the other - one of your eyes is your 'master eye'. -Why does a new pair of glasses need to be adjusted? because one ear may be slightly higher that the other and one supraorbital margin (the ridge of bone under your eyebrow) may well be slightly more prominent on one side. - Physical habits and exercise also play a part: my life spent at hard exercise and manual labour using 'hand' tools rather than power tools has resulted in my left hand and arm with greater muscular development than my right. My lifetime habit of always stepping off with my left foot when climbing stairs or crossing an obstacle has resulted in a visible increase in the musculature of my left leg and glute, and I think that perhaps this may be the reason in this case. TL/DR: some people have one arse-cheek larger than the other...
why is your fell so long for this kilt? I am not sure if I missed it. 22in length and a 9in fell, surely it would be closer to a 7in fell? I'd expect a 9in fell on a kilt of 27in (I was taught fell should be roughly 1/3 the length, +/- an inch depending on the persons body)
I agree - the rule of thumb (which has NOTHING to do with 'the size of a stick used to beat another person with') is "Fell = 1/3 total length. This chap has a particularly long torso.
Our band, City of Greenville Pipes and Drums, wears MacDonald of the Isles Hunting Modern tartan.
This is good info. I'm trying to figure out similar things. With a kilt, is the the case that it is worn at the hips? I ask this because with the perpendicular pressing of pleats, I guess that any waist/hip ratio would have some kind of curvature if worn as a higher rise garment.
sorry, I don't quite understand your question.
I've been enjoying your videos for quite some time now, and I'm always delighted to find you've uploaded a large series of interconnecting videos: your last series (some 27-odd videos, if I recall correctly) kept me company while I finished my last two knitting projects! It's always a pleasure to work on my craft as I listen to you talk through and work on yours :) I always learn something new about kilt-making with every video!
Do you know by any chance if a feather bonnet would have had some kind of protective canvas for rainy days during Lord Wellington's Spanish campaign?
yes, a 'condom' (that's the real name) of painted or lacquered cloth would be worn. I've seen a painting by RR McIan which I'll post the moment I find where I filed it...
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 👍👍👍👍👍
🍺
Those who have gone on before…
Even though I’m an American and you, sir, are a Canadian, I thank you for your military service, and for paying respects to Canada’s war dead. 🙏 This video is a reminder for me of the heavy price of war, and that many besides Americans have paid with their lives. (My father, and father-in-law were both veterans.)
Great video.....
How to clean/ preserve a leather sporran and it's bell rassels
Ok so a 18 ounce, eight yard kilt would be ten pounds?
It's remarkable how contemporary that bike looks - something so utilitarian, designed for a single purpose, and yet it somehow looks good.
You’ve helped me so much! Not just in kilt making but in all sewing. I had a fairly good grasp of pattern drafting but your detailed explanations are next level fantastic. Also, that’s a lovely tartan, which one is it? It looks similar to Lost Souls.
Would love to see a video on the construction of a pipers plaid
He did one as part of his how to make a kilt series...
@ a pipers plaid or a fly plaid? I haven’t finished the series yet, but I was under the impression it was a fly plaid…
@@WildAndGourmet and basked solely on the thumbnail of part 17 of the series, which depict the plaid attached around the waist…. So yeah, I stand on my request for a full dress pipers plaid 🥰
I wanted to give it a 👍(like) but that would have been 'like' 12 + 1 and I can't do that.
14 that's much better🙂
oh come on - 13 was seen as an auspicious number by the ancients - it was the ill-educated adherents of a certain modern belief that flipped that particular script!
I am interested to see how the knife fell to box pleat turns out, as if it works, I will probably be changing up my method for making them!
Does the mill have an mininal yardage requirement? I looked them up, and yes - interesting and good that they are holding up the tradition. (Lovely pattern.)
Their minimum order for single-width (70cm) cloth is 4 metres.
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Considering all - very good; even if this writer is locked into that old USA system of measurements! ;> When I want/need - just drop a email?
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 AND ... when you say "it's expensive", what sort of "ball park" figure per metre might be involved ?
@@DavA-DM um, you don't seriously believe that the Imperial system was invented in the US? As a Canadian I tend to use several modes: I measure fuel in litres but I drink beer in pints, I measure distance in Km (when I'm not measuring it in 'time' - downtown is 20 minutes away - ) but I measure my waist in inches, I buy concrete mix in Kg but I measure flour in pounds, I measure black powder in 'grains' but I measure the distance to the target in metres....and when I'm out in the bay I measure in Nautical Miles!
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 Hush - you aren't dealing with one of those Yanks without a decent education. ;) No, I was speaking of the States general disregard for the metric system. And - yes, always interested to convert from one to other measurement system. Mother was a professional seamstress, and so I have had some experience. :) I even had ancestors who stayed British with that - well 'thing' several years ago... So - kind-a atypical.
I’ve watched a couple of your videos on putting the canvas in, but… how do make sure you’re not sewing through to the front layer when doing the herringbone stitch, from the buttonhole side? I am following your videos meticulously as this is the first kilt I am making.
Good question! I listen for the 'pick' of the needle tip touching the underlying quilting mat and if I do I flip the kilt over to see if the needle is at all visible from the outside. If it isn't, all well and good but if it IS, then I redo that particular stitch. Ideally, there will at the most a small pucker or none at all.
Thanks Robert, you are really the greatest
Beautiful! Many thanks for showing us. I've always been curious and it's an honour to observe you work.
👍
👏
Thank you for this series.
I could watch your videos over and over and never get tired. One day I’m gonna give a shot making one kilt for myself
What an extraordinary demonstration of skill and care.
I'm hearing now 2 washing machines (or yours is a dryer?). Because ours is a 35 years old Miele the water intake lock has to be renewed so I have to put some water by hand. That's why I have to listen very careful to not miss that moment. Hearing 2 machines makes it more confusing.😵💫
Sorry for that - the machines are in the next room and I had a brief argument with myself about 'keeping the work on schedule' and 'waiting for the laundry to finish.
@@robertmacdonaldbespokekilt3063 😁👍I love it just like the ticking clock. It makes me feel like if I'm sitting next to you.
These videos should stay with this kilt forever. Imagine these are shown with the kilt in 100 years from now. Priceless. You could make them for/with all your clients without showing them on youtube.
It's that Moffett(Moffat) tartan?
I have got to figure out how to deal with my curves. Maybe I'll make DH a kilt first, but he has a dad belly. Hmmm...... ~Caryl the Tartan Weaver
For silk, linen thread check out Burnley and Trowbridge near Williamsburg VA
💪Luckily I have an iron like that. 3 kg
Next one Box pleat now yer talkin. That's the one for me.
Еще бы на русском титры были бы было бы супер
You could ask if the client ever broke one of the client's legs. Especially when they were young, like in my case, this could have caused a bigger than normal difference. But anyway, no one is perfectly symmetric.
Indeed the shoulder plaid falls very nice. Impressive that only that piece of cloth is about 200 dollars. No wonder gala uniforms are no longer issued as I believe you mentioned in one of the videos. How could you otherwise pay the 88 F-35As ordered by the Canadian government at $109 million a piece.
All the galas go on at Kim Jong Trudeau's house.
If the fringe tool you're referring to looks like a couple or several alligator clips that you can turn together, that's called a "fringe twister" and are very simple to use. There are several videos on TH-cam about it. Basically you gather six or so threads in each clip, twist them 9-15 times to the right, then pinch the end of one of the little twists of threads unclip it, and do the same to the one next to it, knot them together at the end and let go and they will spin together in the other direction and purl themselves for you.
I have one of those devices. It's helpful to say the least!
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thank you for uploading this
BOOSH MONEY!