Thank you so much for this tutorial. My lens got stuck at 65mm, and wouldn't come loose. This tutorial literally save me over $600 in repairs. You're so amazing. Thanks again. 🥰
I would like to thank you for this,mine had locked up,but it was the slip ring binding against the zoom ring....I cleaned it up with a file,then used metal polish and a cordless drill to ‘lap’ the two parts together....it’s like butter now..and all down to your strip down!....THANK YOU .
I am a nature photographer from India, I have been doing photographic work for past 40 years, I NEVER had a guts to open up a lens so far, last month only I had chance to see your lens cleaning tutorial, it has given me good confidence to open up and do the work my self, I whole heartedly appreciate your sincere efforts,may god bless you to give robust health.
Thank you so much Mike. I picked up a 14-24mm that had been dropped, sharp and focuses correctly through out the range, but the zoom is just very stiff (imagine big guy 2 hands!) It is noticeably bent serial number ring. It's also an import or early US, before they added US. I needed to see the serial number ring removed to help give me confidence. I ordered the part from China and will give it a shot when it arrives. I understand it is the same part as the 24-70mm zoom. Thank you for the tutorial!
IF anyone have the interest, I have also made another video in 2018, that is an update of this video with much more details in normal speed video and I speak at the same time, here you can see it: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
@@mikeno62 thanks for all these repairs guidance! I've also seen the video where you add lube removing the front group and that seems much easier! My zoom is just a bit hard when zooming in and out, do you think it can be fixed by adding a bit of lube from the front?
Hi Mike. Thanks for the great video. I got to the point where you unscrewed that little metal tab to take the outer ring off at 4:40 but couldn't get the tab to align with a place to get to the screws. The same tab that you kinda struggled with when you put it back together. the zoom key. (?) Any ideas how to get it to rotate to a spot where I can get it off? Thanks! :)
You need to do a video on taking apart a Nikon 18-55vr2 lens. I've not seen one successful video on this kit lens.and I know it can be done but I am at a loss after I get the basic stuff off
I've had the previous version of the 28-70. Its been back into repair twice after the zoom ring became so tight it wouldn't move. I have since replaced it and added it to the spares bag.
I have some dust between the last lent inside the connector of AF 2:00 and the one behind them (with is attach to the zoom ) my question is I have to remove al the rubber rings, and connector or I can just take out the 3 screw and gently take out the first element and clean the second element. The dust is on this element, I can see it easy in the 24mm when this part of the lents go to close to the bottom.
Hi Nickkettt To solve the dust problem in your lens, you just need to take out the back lens group with the 3 screws, then you have full access to the next lens where your dust is. Hope it will help you. Cheers Kenneth
Aaaaaiiiiii, then you need to disassemble the back part of the lens so you can get in to the back end of the zoom, BUT Take care, NOT to touch the inside of that lens group because it's the nano coated lens, ONLY blow or vaccum the lens surface. You can get a repair manual here: elektrotanya.com/nikon_af-s_zoom_nikkor_ed_24-70mm_f2.8g_if_repair.pdf/download.html
Hello! Thanks for this! Sorry for the clueless query here - One of the set of screws you start undoing @ circa 2.09 is missing in my lens for some reason - destabilising the whole thing.. are those specific ones screws that are commonly available or do I need to get them through Nikon etc? Thank you in advance! cheers
Hello, I actually found a link to the parts list for this lens, so maybe you can find the information there. elektrotanya.com/nikon_af-s_zoom_nikkor_ed_24-70mm_f2.8g_if_parts.pdf/download.html#dl
I understand the reason for pulling the chip, but if I'm grounded and am touching the metal lens, should both I and the lens carry the same charge? I guess if I was wearing gloves...
My camera got knocked over with a Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55 VR lens. At first the zoom was stuck, but now the ring turns but does not move the lens. I have taken it apart at both ends and found a broken plastic piece the a metal T piece is connected to. Looks like this T is what would move the lens in and out, but I can not find where it broke off of. Have you seen a piece like this that moves the lens?
My 24-70 jammed zoom after the fall, too. Dismantled your instructions, 3 screws were put on retainer, but nothing changed :(. Zoom still spinning with great difficulty.
I could be the big inner tube or the next tube that is not completly round after the lens has fall. It could also be other loose screws that makes the stiff zoom. Have you check the front section tube, many times when this lens hit the hard surface it will be the front section there will be out of alignment....
Thanks, I'll try to check the evenness of the circles of all the tubes and tighten all the screws. I have not disassembled the lens further than it shows on your video.
Hej Kenned. Der er jo mere elektronik i sådan en fætter, end der var i Apollo 11. Nå, men nu er jeg da spændt på om min 24-70´er laver det samme nummer. Fedt du er startet inde på Gråbrødre. Kommer ind og snakker med dig på et tidspunkt - bl.a. om hvordan man får spejlet i en D800 til ikke at slå så hårdt. DFA siger der ikke er noget at gøre ved det.
Hi Mike, sorry for disturbing, I followed the steps of the video but in the front tube, the screws are not aligned with the tube's holes so I can't unscrew them as you did. Do you have an advice to realign the screws? Thanks in advance! Your video is fantastic!
I have made an updated version in normal speed of the lens, so you will see more details during the video, you can see it right here: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
Hi Mikeno62 Great video by the way very helpful and I have taken my lens apart to the same extent now I just have a issue, there is major dust inside the inner optic so do you have a video on how to completely disassembled the whole lens I’ve gone so far but I can’t remove the silent wave motor and disassemble the zoom mechanism if this is possible do you have this video? I subscribe to your station as I watch many of your great videos many thanks Paul
Thank's, to find out how to disassemble a lens or a camera, it's really good to have the repair manual because it will tell a lot how to disassemble the thing. So if people are beginners it'a much better to start with a "simple" manual lens, and in that way be better to, later open the more complicated lenses. If I can not find a repair manual, I have to figure it out myself.
Hello, I have the same lens with fungus, to clean it, you have to disassemble it just like you do, or are there other ways to only remove the lenses? I am in Argentina.
@@mikeno62 ok I will follow your video to disassemble the entire lens, and clean each group of lenses with 3% hydrogen peroxide as you do. Thank you for sharing the way to take it apart !!
@@mikeno62 ok I will follow your video to disassemble the entire lens, and clean each group of lenses with 3% hydrogen peroxide as you do. Thank you for sharing the way to take it apart !!
Wow you got incredibly lucky at about 5:07 when you pulled off the rear outer tube without removing the zoom ring first. There is a zoom encoder flex connected to the main board that needed to be disconnected.
Yeah J. holman I had have repared many of this lens, but I was a bit stressed because I was very busy, so I almost forgot the little flex cable. It sit's in a way that it, if you pulled the outer tube and do it gently you can be lucky that the flex cable will not break ;-)
A question, I noticed you didn't pull out the front guides to inspect the condition of them. I personally have found after impact one or more guides dented or broken and usually replace all front guides as a set if any are damaged. Also, you should add lube to the front guide assy to keep down chattering when the lens is zoomed. Nikon put in a dry lube that I always found inadequate.
Well, I didn't pulled out the front because I have done that earlyer, there was a small dust inside the gront group wich you can take out (as you know) when loosen the 3 screw under the thin front plate (always put a mark on) I have made a film of that earlyer.... wich are here: th-cam.com/video/WkTBmz5xTGs/w-d-xo.html So when it was open already, I just add some good NOT dry grease to the zoom guides assy. I have the same meaning that it's not very good to use the dry lube on those guides, it simply dry'es out tooo fast (maybe it's the piont that it sould dry out tooo fast...) Cheers Kenneth
It's actually called a "zoom brush". Have you try to clean the contacts on the lens or the camera. Use Isopropylalcohol 99% or lighter fluid.. Chers Kenneth
Thanks, i have cleaned the contacts and i will clean the zoom brush after, i have seen that the zoom brush has difficulties to make contact with the part under (don't know the name of the part) and that's why my D3200 says it is not mounted. I'll keep you updated, thanks Regards
Hi Kenneth I have a Nikkor 24-70mm f / 2.8 ED that dropped. Following the instructions in your video, and after replacing the damaged parts, I can't get my focus or get the right exposure. The lens is from the Gray Market and I cannot send it anywhere for repair. Regards
Well Oscar, I have also made another video in 2018, that is an update of this video with much more details in normal speed video and I speak at the same time, here you can see it: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
Hi mike one problem here Nikon 24.70 2.8 fousing problem my lens is zoom ring stuck i watch your video then zoom ring is good working but after pack this lens and check body same click he is not sharp foucs fitting all ok pelase help me
I have made 2 updated videos about the problems, maybe you can use the info there: Loose front th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html Focus hunting problem: th-cam.com/video/3mzDhEnC2fA/w-d-xo.html
Hi Mike, my poor Nikkor 24-120 f4 had some fungi just behind the front glass, any convenient way for remove the front glass off? I think it will be much riskier if I decompose all parts of the lens....
I have not try the 24-120mm f4, but I guess you could try to take off the nameplate / front ring to see if there are 3 screws, and before disassemble anything, remember to set one or 2 small marks on the front ring where you can see the screws. Sometimes the front lens sit on and the screws holes are BIGGER than you will expect so be careful because the lens has to sit correct in the optical center..
I am wondering if you could help me, I have a stuck 24-70 zoom, however it is stuck at approximately 52mm, meaning the zoom barrel is all the way inside the body. When I try to remove the hood ring to get to the 3 screws I cant get it off because its too close to the barrel of the lens :( Is there another way I can free up a stuck lens just a tiny bit to get the zoom barrel out of the body just a little bit more? I do not want to apply too much force in the wrong place!
+Paul Mcginley Well, as I see it (without seeing the lens..) it looks like it is the common problem with the Nikkor 24-70mm 1:2.8 G lens. I have repaired many many of those lenses and it's most of the time the 3 loose screws in the front part, where the zoom section is. So you have to open the lens from the bajonet, NOTE: I did a little mistake at 5:02, REMEMBER to take out the outer zoom ring so you can in to the little flex cable, before taking off the inner tube. And then go all the way to the front part as I show in the film, there you will find that the 3 screws are loose and need to be thighten with small drops of Locktite threadlock 222 (purple) or 243 (blue) Cheers Kenneth
Thanks Kenneth! I have the same problem Paul had. The hood fixed ring got stuck at 7:47 when I tried to remove it from the inner fixed tube, thus I couldn't see the 3 screws. I didn't quite understand your NOTE in the above reply: "REMEMBER to take out the outer zoom ring so you can in to the little flex cable, before taking off the inner tube." Does it solve the issue of " the hood fixed ring getting stuck"? Really appreciate your help!
Well Kejie, I know what you mean, if you look at 5:17 - 5:50, there you can see how I take the zoom ring apart from the distance tube, and what I forgot about the flex cable.... You need to take off the zoom ring first because then you can get into the flex cable. and take it out of the connector, before taking off the next tube (with the distance scale). Hope it makes sense (Maybe I should make a new film about this lens in the right way...) Cheers Kenneth
It's a anti-static wrist band, when working with sensitive electronic circuit board you need that wrist band to prevent the electronic to damage because of static electricity. The wrist band need to connected to the ground electricity. Article from Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_(electricity) In computer repair shops and electronics manufacturing workers must be grounded before working on devices sensitive to voltages capable of being generated by humans. For that reason static dissipative mats can be and are also used on production assembly floors as "floor runner" along the assembly line to draw static generated by people walking up and down.
I was about to down a handful of Rolaids until it became apparent that you were no amateur at this. As near as I can tell you did a dandy job although I'm clueless as to what goes on inside this lens. Also, as another commented, some dialogue would have been nice. Of course the video would have been 4 times longer.
Well, I can see your point, but if you want the video with sound, I have made an updated version in 2018. It's right here: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
Yeah it's an old motion-lapse video, but I have made a much better one in 2018, with a little different issue and it's with sound and in normal speed, you can see it right here: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html Here is another one, that I also made in 2018 and it's the same lens but is has some issues with focus hunting problem: th-cam.com/video/3mzDhEnC2fA/w-d-xo.html
ok bottom line is..... it is a very expensive repair and ony an expert can perform. it your not a lens repair guy your f*ked .. toss out and buy new lens . is that pessimistic or fairly accurate?..... im no repair expert i think im f*ked. this repir is definetyly for atrained expert and will require heavy labor. . im hosed
Thank you so much for this tutorial. My lens got stuck at 65mm, and wouldn't come loose. This tutorial literally save me over $600 in repairs. You're so amazing. Thanks again. 🥰
I would like to thank you for this,mine had locked up,but it was the slip ring binding against the zoom ring....I cleaned it up with a file,then used metal polish and a cordless drill to ‘lap’ the two parts together....it’s like butter now..and all down to your strip down!....THANK YOU .
I'm happy to hear that my film could help you :-)
This is a fantastic tutorial! I've never seen anything like it! Thanks so very much for showing everyone how to do this!!!
I am a nature photographer from India, I have been doing photographic work for past 40 years, I NEVER had a guts to open up a lens so far, last month only I had chance to see your lens cleaning tutorial, it has given me good confidence to open up and do the work my self, I whole heartedly appreciate your sincere efforts,may god bless you to give robust health.
Thanks a lot! You very help for me, my 24-70 lock zoom ring. after your video i fixed my problem!
У Вас тоже была проблема с зумом после падения объектива?
Без падения стало клинить, все починил, разобрав и смазав
ok..okk now i know the photographer is not the only person behind a great image ..
Thank you so much Mike. I picked up a 14-24mm that had been dropped, sharp and focuses correctly through out the range, but the zoom is just very stiff (imagine big guy 2 hands!) It is noticeably bent serial number ring. It's also an import or early US, before they added US. I needed to see the serial number ring removed to help give me confidence.
I ordered the part from China and will give it a shot when it arrives. I understand it is the same part as the 24-70mm zoom. Thank you for the tutorial!
IF anyone have the interest, I have also made another video in 2018, that is an update of this video with much more details in normal speed video and I speak at the same time, here you can see it: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
@@mikeno62 thanks for all these repairs guidance! I've also seen the video where you add lube removing the front group and that seems much easier! My zoom is just a bit hard when zooming in and out, do you think it can be fixed by adding a bit of lube from the front?
For my lense it was binding in the top section. It took some buffing out then some lithium grease. Back to working again. Thanks for the video
ESD wrist-band is all good, but all the dirt!!! I died a little bit and almost cried.
Hi Mike. Thanks for the great video.
I got to the point where you unscrewed that little metal tab to take the outer ring off at 4:40 but couldn't get the tab to align with a place to get to the screws. The same tab that you kinda struggled with when you put it back together. the zoom key. (?) Any ideas how to get it to rotate to a spot where I can get it off? Thanks! :)
You need to do a video on taking apart a Nikon 18-55vr2 lens. I've not seen one successful video on this kit lens.and I know it can be done but I am at a loss after I get the basic stuff off
my way is much easier
1- remove carefully the first set of screws
2- give up, and go buy a new lens.
+Enigma w Hahaha, well, that's another way of seeing things, sometimes I do so too ;-)
That is exactly what I did. ( My lens was crooked). But I actually pulled the bent lens out carefully, and after about 20 tries.
I've had the previous version of the 28-70. Its been back into repair twice after the zoom ring became so tight it wouldn't move. I have since replaced it and added it to the spares bag.
Great job ...why the the sound of this video is turned off?
+robert paridon Well, there is actually no sound on my Motion Lapse Film..
@@mikeno62 Dub some
Hej, hvad ville du tage for betaling hvis man skulle få serviceret en Nikon 50mm ai-s som har en fokusring som sidder fast? 😁
Thank you,
I have some dust between the last lent inside the connector of AF 2:00 and the one behind them (with is attach to the zoom ) my question is I have to remove al the rubber rings, and connector or I can just take out the 3 screw and gently take out the first element and clean the second element. The dust is on this element, I can see it easy in the 24mm when this part of the lents go to close to the bottom.
Hi Nickkettt
To solve the dust problem in your lens, you just need to take out the back lens group with the 3 screws, then you have full access to the next lens where your dust is.
Hope it will help you.
Cheers
Kenneth
mikeno62 Thanks, this afternoon I will try it to clean it. Great videos !
Bad luck, is in the other side of this element.
Aaaaaiiiiii, then you need to disassemble the back part of the lens so you can get in to the back end of the zoom, BUT Take care, NOT to touch the inside of that lens group because it's the nano coated lens, ONLY blow or vaccum the lens surface. You can get a repair manual here:
elektrotanya.com/nikon_af-s_zoom_nikkor_ed_24-70mm_f2.8g_if_repair.pdf/download.html
Hello! Thanks for this! Sorry for the clueless query here - One of the set of screws you start undoing @ circa 2.09 is missing in my lens for some reason - destabilising the whole thing.. are those specific ones screws that are commonly available or do I need to get them through Nikon etc? Thank you in advance! cheers
Hello, I actually found a link to the parts list for this lens, so maybe you can find the information there.
elektrotanya.com/nikon_af-s_zoom_nikkor_ed_24-70mm_f2.8g_if_parts.pdf/download.html#dl
I understand the reason for pulling the chip, but if I'm grounded and am touching the metal lens, should both I and the lens carry the same charge? I guess if I was wearing gloves...
My camera got knocked over with a Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55 VR lens. At first the zoom was stuck, but now the ring turns but does not move the lens. I have taken it apart at both ends and found a broken plastic piece the a metal T piece is connected to. Looks like this T is what would move the lens in and out, but I can not find where it broke off of. Have you seen a piece like this that moves the lens?
So I got my Nikon 17-55 apart and fixed it and can't get the last two parts on, you should really show us the put together.
My 24-70 jammed zoom after the fall, too. Dismantled your instructions, 3 screws were put on retainer, but nothing changed :(. Zoom still spinning with great difficulty.
I could be the big inner tube or the next tube that is not completly round after the lens has fall. It could also be other loose screws that makes the stiff zoom. Have you check the front section tube, many times when this lens hit the hard surface it will be the front section there will be out of alignment....
Thanks, I'll try to check the evenness of the circles of all the tubes and tighten all the screws. I have not disassembled the lens further than it shows on your video.
I had my 28-70 repaired and it went wrong almost straight away, same issue stuck zoom with a snapped fork. Stopped using it in the end.
Hej Kenned.
Der er jo mere elektronik i sådan en fætter, end der var i Apollo 11. Nå, men nu er jeg da spændt på om min 24-70´er laver det samme nummer.
Fedt du er startet inde på Gråbrødre. Kommer ind og snakker med dig på et tidspunkt - bl.a. om hvordan man får spejlet i en D800 til ikke at slå så hårdt. DFA siger der ikke er noget at gøre ved det.
Hi Mike, sorry for disturbing, I followed the steps of the video but in the front tube, the screws are not aligned with the tube's holes so I can't unscrew them as you did. Do you have an advice to realign the screws? Thanks in advance! Your video is fantastic!
I have made an updated version in normal speed of the lens, so you will see more details during the video, you can see it right here: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
Hello! Can you fix my 24/70?
Hi Mikeno62 Great video by the way very helpful and I have taken my lens apart to the same extent now I just have a issue, there is major dust inside the inner optic so do you have a video on how to completely disassembled the whole lens I’ve gone so far but I can’t remove the silent wave motor and disassemble the zoom mechanism if this is possible do you have this video? I subscribe to your station as I watch many of your great videos many thanks Paul
Your videos are great. Now they are even greater with narration! How do you know which screws to undo?
Thank's, to find out how to disassemble a lens or a camera, it's really good to have the repair manual because it will tell a lot how to disassemble the thing. So if people are beginners it'a much better to start with a "simple" manual lens, and in that way be better to, later open the more complicated lenses.
If I can not find a repair manual, I have to figure it out myself.
Hello, I have the same lens with fungus, to clean it, you have to disassemble it just like you do, or are there other ways to only remove the lenses? I am in Argentina.
If there is fungus in the lens, you will need to disassemble the lens to clean it.
@@mikeno62 ok I will follow your video to disassemble the entire lens, and clean each group of lenses with 3% hydrogen peroxide as you do. Thank you for sharing the way to take it apart !!
@@mikeno62 ok I will follow your video to disassemble the entire lens, and clean each group of lenses with 3% hydrogen peroxide as you do. Thank you for sharing the way to take it apart !!
Wow you got incredibly lucky at about 5:07 when you pulled off the rear outer tube without removing the zoom ring first. There is a zoom encoder flex connected to the main board that needed to be disconnected.
Yeah J. holman
I had have repared many of this lens, but I was a bit stressed because I was very busy, so I almost forgot the little flex cable. It sit's in a way that it, if you pulled the outer tube and do it gently you can be lucky that the flex cable will not break ;-)
A question, I noticed you didn't pull out the front guides to inspect the condition of them. I personally have found after impact one or more guides dented or broken and usually replace all front guides as a set if any are damaged. Also, you should add lube to the front guide assy to keep down chattering when the lens is zoomed. Nikon put in a dry lube that I always found inadequate.
Well, I didn't pulled out the front because I have done that earlyer, there was a small dust inside the gront group wich you can take out (as you know) when loosen the 3 screw under the thin front plate (always put a mark on) I have made a film of that earlyer.... wich are here: th-cam.com/video/WkTBmz5xTGs/w-d-xo.html
So when it was open already, I just add some good NOT dry grease to the zoom guides assy.
I have the same meaning that it's not very good to use the dry lube on those guides, it simply dry'es out tooo fast
(maybe it's the piont that it sould dry out tooo fast...)
Cheers
Kenneth
HI ! How is named the part you are removing at 1:15 ? I think mine is not working and my D3200 says lens is not mounted...
Thanks
It's actually called a "zoom brush".
Have you try to clean the contacts on the lens or the camera. Use Isopropylalcohol 99% or lighter fluid..
Chers
Kenneth
Thanks, i have cleaned the contacts and i will clean the zoom brush after, i have seen that the zoom brush has difficulties to make contact with the part under (don't know the name of the part) and that's why my D3200 says it is not mounted.
I'll keep you updated, thanks
Regards
Hi Kenneth I have a Nikkor 24-70mm f / 2.8 ED that dropped. Following the instructions in your video, and after replacing the damaged parts, I can't get my focus or get the right exposure. The lens is from the Gray Market and I cannot send it anywhere for repair. Regards
Well Oscar, I have also made another video in 2018, that is an update of this video with much more details in normal speed video and I speak at the same time, here you can see it: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
Not to mention the Kudos I got ! Cheers.
Hi mike one problem here Nikon 24.70 2.8 fousing problem my lens is zoom ring stuck i watch your video then zoom ring is good working but after pack this lens and check body same click he is not sharp foucs fitting all ok pelase help me
I have made 2 updated videos about the problems, maybe you can use the info there:
Loose front
th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
Focus hunting problem:
th-cam.com/video/3mzDhEnC2fA/w-d-xo.html
necesito comprar el 3er elemento optico del lente en reparacion como lo consigo soy de lima en perú tiene el codigo de como pedirlo en usa?
thank you very much !!!
Hi Mike, my poor Nikkor 24-120 f4 had some fungi just behind the front glass, any convenient way for remove the front glass off? I think it will be much riskier if I decompose all parts of the lens....
I have not try the 24-120mm f4, but I guess you could try to take off the nameplate / front ring to see if there are 3 screws, and before disassemble anything, remember to set one or 2 small marks on the front ring where you can see the screws. Sometimes the front lens sit on and the screws holes are BIGGER than you will expect so be careful because the lens has to sit correct in the optical center..
I am wondering if you could help me, I have a stuck 24-70 zoom, however it is stuck at approximately 52mm, meaning the zoom barrel is all the way inside the body. When I try to remove the hood ring to get to the 3 screws I cant get it off because its too close to the barrel of the lens :( Is there another way I can free up a stuck lens just a tiny bit to get the zoom barrel out of the body just a little bit more? I do not want to apply too much force in the wrong place!
+Paul Mcginley Well, as I see it (without seeing the lens..) it looks like it is the common problem with the Nikkor 24-70mm 1:2.8 G lens. I have repaired many many of those lenses and it's most of the time the 3 loose screws in the front part, where the zoom section is.
So you have to open the lens from the bajonet,
NOTE: I did a little mistake at 5:02, REMEMBER to take out the outer zoom ring so you can in to the little flex cable, before taking off the inner tube.
And then go all the way to the front part as I show in the film, there you will find that the 3 screws are loose and need to be thighten with small drops of Locktite threadlock 222 (purple) or 243 (blue)
Cheers
Kenneth
Thanks Kenneth! I have the same problem Paul had. The hood fixed ring got stuck at 7:47 when I tried to remove it from the inner fixed tube, thus I couldn't see the 3 screws. I didn't quite understand your NOTE in the above reply: "REMEMBER to take out the outer zoom ring so you can in to the little flex cable, before taking off the inner tube." Does it solve the issue of " the hood fixed ring getting stuck"? Really appreciate your help!
Well Kejie, I know what you mean, if you look at 5:17 - 5:50, there you can see how I take the zoom ring apart from the distance tube, and what I forgot about the flex cable....
You need to take off the zoom ring first because then you can get into the flex cable.
and take it out of the connector, before taking off the next tube (with the distance scale).
Hope it makes sense
(Maybe I should make a new film about this lens in the right way...)
Cheers
Kenneth
Which screw driver use for this lens?
I use JIS00 crosshead screw driver
Or you could buy this set:
eustore.ifixit.com/en/Tools/Drivers-Wrenches/JIS-Driver-Set.html?Fixit&Referral&
hey mikeno62 what's on your right wrist?? it's some kind tool or what?..
It's a anti-static wrist band, when working with sensitive electronic circuit board you need that wrist band to prevent the electronic to damage because of static electricity.
The wrist band need to connected to the ground electricity.
Article from Wikipedia:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_(electricity)
In computer repair shops and electronics manufacturing workers must be grounded before working on devices sensitive to voltages capable of being generated by humans. For that reason static dissipative mats can be and are also used on production assembly floors as "floor runner" along the assembly line to draw static generated by people walking up and down.
Простите,Вы сами собираете объективы для Nikon?но не в Японии:)):(((
I was about to down a handful of Rolaids until it became apparent that you were no amateur at this. As near as I can tell you did a dandy job although I'm clueless as to what goes on inside this lens. Also, as another commented, some dialogue would have been nice. Of course the video would have been 4 times longer.
I've dropped my NIKKOR 55-300mm lens and now it wont focus. Do you know of anyone in the UK (south?) that does this sort of thing please?
I Think there are some in London but have no idea, because I live / work in Denmark..
man, that looks way too complicated. i think ill just spend the $600 getting it fixed. :(
Actually $700
Yeah, no one's gonna try this....
patricia rowe But it's a good puzle ;-) ;-)
Bruh, it works. Saved me over $600 in repairs.
You all think this is great with NO SOUND? Ok then. Not for me.
Well, I can see your point, but if you want the video with sound, I have made an updated version in 2018. It's right here: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
At least use music in your videos
Yeah it's an old motion-lapse video, but I have made a much better one in 2018, with a little different issue and it's with sound and in normal speed, you can see it right here: th-cam.com/video/vkEIEojXJ-k/w-d-xo.html
Here is another one, that I also made in 2018 and it's the same lens but is has some issues with focus hunting problem: th-cam.com/video/3mzDhEnC2fA/w-d-xo.html
ok bottom line is..... it is a very expensive repair and ony an expert can perform. it your not a lens repair guy your f*ked .. toss out and buy new lens . is that pessimistic or fairly accurate?..... im no repair expert i think im f*ked. this repir is definetyly for atrained expert and will require heavy labor. . im hosed
Thanks, it was fascinating to watch.
For my lense it was binding in the top section. It took some buffing out then some lithium grease. Back to working again. Thanks for the video