It's actually the correct way to disassemble an highly accurized 1911s. A lot of highly accurized 1911s in the military, such as JSOC/SMU owned 1911s and Camp Perry 1911s are disassembled this way to avoid causing tolerance issue from disassembling and affecting accuracy.
Colts manual states to remove spring tension first , reassembling the pistol is much easier when you're not fighting the spring tension and accidentally scratching the frame.
In the Army, you definitely release the tension first. Depress the spring cup, roll the lug out of the way and allow the cup and spring to come out of the front. Then you bring the slide back to remove the slide catch. Then rotate the lug the other way and remove the slide, finally sliding the barrel and lug out of the front. This method looks cool but it feels like a good way to go chasing a spring and cup. In the dark, in the field....
Right, above and the other 2 replies. You take the tension, pressure, off the spring FIRST. I see the poster has a second video where he does remove the plug and spring first. He should take this video down because it is completely backwards of the proper way to field strip any 1911 pattern pistol.
@@An2oine Exactly! When your qualifying a weapon, part of your testing requires field stripping and reassembly blindfolded. Ostensibly to simulate having to do so in the dark of night. Can you imagine that spring coming off as you're trying to control it _AND_ the slide at the same time.
My Grandfather was a WW2 vet and taught me how to field strip the 1911. The Spring comes out first and goes back in last. If you don't you are fighting the spring the whole time.
No, they don't on all, but this one will. When the barrel bushing comes off the front you can, you need a tool to compress the spring on a pistol that uses a reverse plug. 👍@idontcare-ct7jm
I was Senior Small Arms Repairman for several years in the military. We did it exactly as this man showed, and I've been doing it that way for over 50 years.
@@jimv.661 The original 1911 recoil spring plug has a little notch for the recoil spring end to fit into to hold the plug, so that when the barrel bushing is turned to release the spring tension for disassembling, the plug won't accidentally fly across the room. The way he did it doesn't prevent the slide release from scratching the frame, nor it's simpler and quicker. It would only increase the risk for the slide flying off his hand, and it's more inconvenient to have one hand holding the slide under tension the whole time, the other hand to fumble with other parts.
@@rustynail246 Yes, I know there is a notch in the plug. It isn't inconvenient to do it the way he does. I have done thousands and it is much faster, and easier, and you don't need a bushing wrench. Also, there is no fumbling. The slide is off in seconds and put back together quickly. The slide gets scratched when putting the gun back together, not taking it apart. So either way you just need to be careful putting it back together to prevent the scratch.
I was taught a much different sequence of disassembly and re-assembley. I press in the plug first, rotate the Barrel bushing, carefully release the recoil spring plug, to ensure it doesn't fly to the other side of the room, THEN, push the slide back and then press/remove the slide stop and then you can push the slide forward and off, rotate the barrel bushing, and slide the barrel out. BTW, not a single one of my 4, 1911's have the idiot scratch. ALSO, All of my 1911's have a full length recoil spring guide. I find my weapons run much smoother than with small guides. It's also easier to take down and put back together. I believe you would call it the "Traditional method".
@@bgreen987 It is also how I was taught to disassemble the 1911 as well. I never thought of doing it any other way before, and wonder if it is due to Beretta pistol owners not having the barrel bushing and having to fight the spring to disassemble their pistols?
@@jeffreyyoung4104 I don't know, maybe. But the Beretta spring stays in place when you take the slide off, that 1911 spring will take off on you if you don't keep a hold of it.
@@bgreen987 The spring can be removed when the barrel bushing is rotated to the right, releasing all tension for further disassembly, unlike other pistols that have to be disassembled the other way.
I can truthfully say I've never disassembled a 1911 in that order. If the spring tension is removed first, everything else is effortless. Manipulation and removal of the slide stop is also very easy when not fighting the recoil spring tension. To each their own. Thanks for the video and demonstrating your version of 1911 disassembly. It was very interesting!
It seems to me that the easier and safer way to field strip the 1911 is to remove the barrel bushing first, thus relieving all of the spring tension on the barrel and slide. Then you don't have to keep a gorilla grip on the barrel assembly while you line up the pin hole in the frame with the hole in the barrel. But, like you said, whatever works best for you.
If you release the recoil spring first like Colt designed the thing, you don't risk the accurately named Idiot Scratch that comes from trying to fight the spring unnecessarily *_like an idiot_* while removing the slide. If not for this video, I could still say that in HUNDREDS of 1911 disassembly and reassembly cycles I've never seen one person leave the spring engaged and try to remove/replace the slide fighting all that tension.
I doubt if this guy is that stupid. He's massaging the TH-cam algorithm by creating false content he knows will generate more replies which increases his revenue.
In VN we would practice this blindfolded and I've never seen a 1911 disassembled that way. Did you see the spring when this expert was fighting the slide on? all wadded up and bent. I wouldn't let him near my Bob Chow hardball gun.
I always take the mag out before checking the chamber, it's just an extra precaution for a ridiculous and rare situation where a round can be unseen in the mag and get pushed up right before dropping the slide forward. This is much more important with a Glock though because you need to pull the trigger before disassembly. Thanks for the heads up! I hope I never messed up my dad's Kimber like that! I'm sure we'd have noticed... It's a matt finish too.
How would that ever happen? If the magazine catch doesn't move the slide stop into position the slide will just close on the round.. letting you know it's chambered. I'm not arguing against dropping the mag first.. that's obvious. This guy already prepared that pistol so he knew the mag and chamber were clear. You've never opened the slide on a mag you knew was empty just for the look and feel of doing it? I certainly have
@shep236 same reason why someone might stick their pinky in the open chamber of an AR even though they already visually checked to see if it was clear: Redundancy saves lives.
Holding the spring and guide rod as you disassemble the gun deprives you of the exquisite joy of tracking down your rod and spring, especially if you do so in the kitchen! There's nothing like the joy of spending a couple of hours on your hands and knees, searching for a spring that can't be found. Ah, yes, it gets a little easier each time the spring goes whizzing just inches from your head. Nice gun, though. I have a Browning Hi-Power that's gorgeous. The bluing is a mile deep and I have to top my hat to the late John Browning. His guns are amazing!
Thanks for the clear and methodical demonstration! One thing you didn't mention, though, was an explanation of what exactly the "idiot scratch" is and why your method prevents it from happening. I'm still wondering what that's about.
I've always released the spring tension on the recoil spring by rotating the barrel bushing... but if your aim is to launch your guide rod across the room and have to spend the next half hour on your hands and knees looking under the furniture to try and find it, or possibly shatter any glass you might have in the room then this is exactly what you want to do lol😂
That would be the correct way to do it. He's taking his 1911 apart like it's a Tokarev. I mean, it gets the job done too. But I personally find the proper way better. Makes it easier to avoid the scratch too, because you don't have to fight the spring tension the whole time.
I thought the same🤔 fighting recoil spring the whole time. A lot of people that have shown take down an re assembly have never shown a close up of what tha end of the link pin is shaped like, there are 2 different ramps to defeat the detent spring . Not understanding that and how to set is the cause is the idiot scratch. Some one or myself should show that.
yours is an absolutely pristine gun, beautiful upkeep! I just picked up a colt series 70, the previous owner definitely took care of it but there is a very light idiot scratch on it that honestly seems inevitable with a 50 year old gun. Can't complain too much when I got it for just under $500 :)
I have my dad‘s old 70 series colt. The original sale price was under $300. It handles very well and it is never had any feeding issues. But of course the sights suck.
The slide stop plunger on my Springfield Mil-Spec is always reluctant to give way to allow the slide top to snap into place. I have taken to using a flat precision screwdriver to push the pin back so that the slide stop snaps back into place. And, like so many other people are saying, I always take out the recoil spring first and replace it and the plug last. I use a Wilson Combat flat wire full length guide rod and recoil spring in my 1911.
The field manual says that the recoil spring should be removed first, so that you don't have to fight against the spring tension. That's what the manual says, along with common sense.
I have several chainsaws that cost over $1000. They were pristine, and new when I bought them. Now theyre scratched, grimy, and well used. Its a tool. Tools are meant to be used. With use, comes scratches, and wear. I have a $40k excavator. I didnt pay $40k to just admire it. It gets well used.
I say the same thing about trucks. All these people getting $50,000+ trucks adding $10,000 in mods never using it like you're supposed to use a truck. Nothing is ever in the bed. It's never been in 4x4. Never been off the road. Never had anything on the hitch. You have a truck.... use it like a truck. If that bed is not scratched up, you don't deserve it.
@@keithdavid5206 Exactly, gross negligence of tools is rather irksome isn't it? Take care of your tools, and if they are well made will take care of you. If you buy quality take quality time to care for it.
@@keithdavid5206I couldn’t imagine allowing a small explosion to occur in such a nice tool, only to have a hunk of copper jacketed metal scuff up the shiny rifling of that barrel.
In the military we were taught to release spring tension first. As far as scratches are concerned I'm not bothered by them. All my weapons have scratches because I use them.
Uh the step after making sure it's empty is to depress the recoil spring plunger,rotate the barrel bushing then remove it and the recoil spring. Then every thing is out of tension and much much easier to remove and replace. My old Gunny would be rolling on the floor laughing at this.
The nice thing about the 1911 is that you can get a cheap one and it will shoot as well as the original GI model. An added benefit is that it won't have the gorgeous blued finish of your mint condition Colt, so you won't have to worry about scratching it.
Whilst trying to avoid the idiot scratch during my first 1911 reassembly, the slide stops slips and I end up putting a nasty gash on the slide 🫠. But now Im getting good at it. I put tape on the “idiot prone areas”. My $1500 1911 is now a range gun but I still keep it as shiny as possible. My Kimber and I had a long heart to heart, it forgives me.
I've never seen this method of disassembly and as a former Navy Torpedoman that worked with Gunners Mates during the early 80s, I never saw them break down one like this ever. Gunners Mates ran the armory on ships and shore bases.
I don’t understand many of the negative comments here. While the title might be a little off (I don’t see this method helping prevent an idiot scratch), the creator did a fine job presenting an alternative takedown method for a tightly fitted 1911. Most of my 1911’s I field strip the traditional way. My Colt Hawk has a fitted barrel bushing. No way I can turn that thing without a wrench and my understanding was the field strip procedure demonstrated here by the author helped preserve that tight fit. I could be wrong. I almost always am. Either way, great video and a beautiful Colt.
It sure looks like you haven’t served in any branch of the US Military. Releasing recoil spring tension is alway the first step in disassembly. Other than that, nice video.
everything is under tension taking apart and reassembly,,,,i press the spring stop in first and rotate bushing to let spring plug out so there is no tension,,,,,,then removing pin to the left is extra easy,,,,,same with installlation, put the pin in first and no tension,,,,then install spring and plug,,,
You are obviously not the Sgt. I had in 1965 screaming while spiting in my ear with something resembling instructions mixed with a litany of obscenities, and dangers of VC overrunning my position. You do present an extremely fine example of keeping your cherry slabside pristine. 👍👍
Push in the plug and rotate the barrel bushing first. Then take out the plug and the spring. Then the bushing. Now, you can pull the slide to the rear and lie up the takedown notch while it is not under pressure.
@@jamesorth1521 If I get one I would either get an original 1911A1 or a A! copy that I can turn into a Snake Eater 1911A1: th-cam.com/video/-sTgRA2BlZs/w-d-xo.html
@TheStrayHALOMAN I have a collection of 1911s. In my opinion, the only model that I DON'T want to own is a Series 80. Otherwise I have not found one I don't like.
I tried this method and found it MUCH harder to do because your spring is under compression the entire time. Also, on my full-sized Kimber I couldn't get the spring assembly out like you showed. Thanks, but I'll stick with the method in the manual that has you remove the bushing and spring first.
If there wasn't a round in the chamber when you started there is one there now. Also why fight with the spring when it is so easy to remove it prior to trying to disassemble the weapon.
I prefer taking the spring tension off. In harsh conditions out in the bush, thinking about scratches doesnt even enter the mind. It looks like a pretty new .45
Very good video! I've been using 1911s a long time, and I never seem to reassemble them the same way, twice! LOL!!!! Yes, way back when, I've lost many a Recoil Spring Plunger! LOL! Don Blake
Has anyone owned or cleaned a Glock? Any Glock. My first was the Glock 17. Gun of the year 1987. Two 17 round magazines standard. Walking around with 34 + 1= 35 rounds ready to go. Never have to worry about a safety. Just pull the trigger. Very easy to take apart and clean. Very few parts, anyone can do it. 3 parts when taken apart. Barrel, Spring, one part I have no idea what the name is. Fits inside the spring. Don't have to worry about rust it's all polymer. Most of it anyway. This was the gun I purchased after making the mistake of selling my Uzi carbine. I had no idea how valuable it was going to become. On the other hand I really couldn't walk around with it either.
The method of disassembling and reassembling the 1911 shown is not how I learned in the Army. 1. Remove the magazine first then lock the slide to the rear and inspect the chamber. Always remove the source of ammunition first. 2. Allow the slide to go forward and push down on the spring plug rotate the barrel bushing to allow the spring plug to come out while maintaining pressure so as not allow the plug to shoot across the room. Remove the plug from the pistol. 3. Pull the slide back to engage the slide catch with the small notch and pressing the tip of the slide catch, remove the slide catch to release the slide. 4. Remove the plug from the pistol and rotate the barrel bushing the other direction to remove the slide along with barrel, the operating rod and spring. Reassemble in the reverse fashion. The spring plug is always the first part removed and always the last part replaced. Removing the plug releases tension on the operating spring and allows much easier disassembly and reassembly. Had I followed the procedure shown here I would have had hell to pay with that man wearing the Smokey the Bear hat.
Damn that Colt is beautiful, I didn’t have the big bucks for one of those. Settled on a Springfield SS Range Officer. I should have watched your video before disassemble. I gave it the idiot scratch lol. At least stainless is forgiving and had it repaired easily.
yeah, always release the spring tension first, by doing so you dont put the tension on the slide stop pin as you remove it. for someone calling it a "No idiot scratch" your manual of arms is.....interesting
Why not do it the easy way so you don't gotta fight the spring while taking the slide on and off? If you don't wanna scratch it just lift it up a bit so it don't drag on the finnish
Maybe it appears that I’m fighting the spring, but it’s not really a fight per se. as far as the takedown pin is concerned, I hold it above the frame while positioning the slide for final insertion of the takedown pin.
Wilhelm w I’m uploading a new video in a few moments doing a comparison. I’m not trying to convert anyone, but like any process that you’re not familiar with it can be more difficult at first because you haven’t practiced it. The way I’m doing it now when I first started doing it seemed more difficult than “barrel bushing first” method, but with practice it gets easier and for me it has become easier than bushing first. YMMV.
I never thought about it. I just do they way the SFC range instructor told me to do it. You never have to chase the spring and bushing. If you follow directions.
had a DW 10MM SS Bobtail I sent back to DW to get refinished. It came ( didn't have one when it left my possession) back with that "idiot scratch". Damn.
I Did that with a mint 1956 NM with the.22 conversion kit in original box . My father never fogot me until his death. Scratched the frame. Had beautiful perfect blueing until then.
I've never seen this way of field stripping a .45. I'm going to try it. But I'll wait until I get my new glasses so I can find the parts that go zoom. You just know that they will go zoom on the first attempt.
I think you should read the manual from over 100 years ago on how to disassemble this gun. You're creating extra work for yourself by doing it that way.
That is the hardest way to disassemble and reassemble a 1911 I have ever seen WOW
It's actually the correct way to disassemble an highly accurized 1911s. A lot of highly accurized 1911s in the military, such as JSOC/SMU owned 1911s and Camp Perry 1911s are disassembled this way to avoid causing tolerance issue from disassembling and affecting accuracy.
Colts manual states to remove spring tension first , reassembling the pistol is much easier when you're not fighting the spring tension and accidentally scratching the frame.
In the Army, you definitely release the tension first. Depress the spring cup, roll the lug out of the way and allow the cup and spring to come out of the front. Then you bring the slide back to remove the slide catch. Then rotate the lug the other way and remove the slide, finally sliding the barrel and lug out of the front.
This method looks cool but it feels like a good way to go chasing a spring and cup. In the dark, in the field....
@@KyleCowden That's why they make the bushing wrench.....
Right, above and the other 2 replies.
You take the tension, pressure, off the spring FIRST.
I see the poster has a second video where he does remove the plug and spring first. He should take this video down because it is completely backwards of the proper way to field strip any 1911 pattern pistol.
Dude, read your manual. Recoil spring comes out first and goes in last.
@@An2oine Exactly! When your qualifying a weapon, part of your testing requires field stripping and reassembly blindfolded. Ostensibly to simulate having to do so in the dark of night. Can you imagine that spring coming off as you're trying to control it _AND_ the slide at the same time.
My Grandfather was a WW2 vet and taught me how to field strip the 1911. The Spring comes out first and goes back in last. If you don't you are fighting the spring the whole time.
May i thank him for serving our country.
No, they don't on all, but this one will. When the barrel bushing comes off the front you can, you need a tool to compress the spring on a pistol that uses a reverse plug. 👍@idontcare-ct7jm
I think you should release the recoil spring tension first.
That's how I was taught to do it. Much simpler.
This right here
I was Senior Small Arms Repairman for several years in the military. We did it exactly as this man showed, and I've been doing it that way for over 50 years.
@@jimv.661 The original 1911 recoil spring plug has a little notch for the recoil spring end to fit into to hold the plug, so that when the barrel bushing is turned to release the spring tension for disassembling, the plug won't accidentally fly across the room. The way he did it doesn't prevent the slide release from scratching the frame, nor it's simpler and quicker. It would only increase the risk for the slide flying off his hand, and it's more inconvenient to have one hand holding the slide under tension the whole time, the other hand to fumble with other parts.
@@rustynail246 Yes, I know there is a notch in the plug. It isn't inconvenient to do it the way he does. I have done thousands and it is much faster, and easier, and you don't need a bushing wrench. Also, there is no fumbling. The slide is off in seconds and put back together quickly. The slide gets scratched when putting the gun back together, not taking it apart. So either way you just need to be careful putting it back together to prevent the scratch.
I didnt know there was a worse way to field strip a 1911 until now, I'll keep removing bushing first and still dont have an idiot scratch.
I don’t think this guy realizes you can remove the recoil spring before you can remove the slide.
This is the better way if your gun is fit correctly instead of messing up the barrel bell thats fit to bushing.
I was taught a much different sequence of disassembly and re-assembley. I press in the plug first, rotate the Barrel bushing, carefully release the recoil spring plug, to ensure it doesn't fly to the other side of the room, THEN, push the slide back and then press/remove the slide stop and then you can push the slide forward and off, rotate the barrel bushing, and slide the barrel out. BTW, not a single one of my 4, 1911's have the idiot scratch. ALSO, All of my 1911's have a full length recoil spring guide. I find my weapons run much smoother than with small guides. It's also easier to take down and put back together. I believe you would call it the "Traditional method".
This is how you do it.
@@bgreen987 It is also how I was taught to disassemble the 1911 as well. I never thought of doing it any other way before, and wonder if it is due to Beretta pistol owners not having the barrel bushing and having to fight the spring to disassemble their pistols?
@@jeffreyyoung4104 I don't know, maybe. But the Beretta spring stays in place when you take the slide off, that 1911 spring will take off on you if you don't keep a hold of it.
@@bgreen987 The spring can be removed when the barrel bushing is rotated to the right, releasing all tension for further disassembly, unlike other pistols that have to be disassembled the other way.
Definitely better than the video. I was taught the same way in the Army.
The most complicated way to disassemble and reassemble a 1911 I have ever seen.
Dude makes a job much harder than what it’s supposed to be I can only imagine him at his workplace
I can truthfully say I've never disassembled a 1911 in that order. If the spring tension is removed first, everything else is effortless. Manipulation and removal of the slide stop is also very easy when not fighting the recoil spring tension. To each their own. Thanks for the video and demonstrating your version of 1911 disassembly. It was very interesting!
It seems to me that the easier and safer way to field strip the 1911 is to remove the barrel bushing first, thus relieving all of the spring tension on the barrel and slide. Then you don't have to keep a gorilla grip on the barrel assembly while you line up the pin hole in the frame with the hole in the barrel. But, like you said, whatever works best for you.
When I learned to field strip a 1911A1 in the Navy, I was taught to remove the recoil spring plug first.
If you release the recoil spring first like Colt designed the thing, you don't risk the accurately named Idiot Scratch that comes from trying to fight the spring unnecessarily *_like an idiot_* while removing the slide. If not for this video, I could still say that in HUNDREDS of 1911 disassembly and reassembly cycles I've never seen one person leave the spring engaged and try to remove/replace the slide fighting all that tension.
This guy at least thinks he is the expert.
The idiot scratch is only from reinstalling the takedown pin, not from uninstalling.
I doubt if this guy is that stupid. He's massaging the TH-cam algorithm by creating false content he knows will generate more replies which increases his revenue.
In VN we would practice this blindfolded and I've never seen a 1911 disassembled that way. Did you see the spring when this expert was fighting the slide on? all wadded up and bent. I wouldn't let him near my Bob Chow hardball gun.
Colt did not design it.
I always start by removing the barrel bushing plug and spring first I learned that in the Army in 1966
Thank you for your service
True and thank you sir salute
I always take the mag out before checking the chamber, it's just an extra precaution for a ridiculous and rare situation where a round can be unseen in the mag and get pushed up right before dropping the slide forward. This is much more important with a Glock though because you need to pull the trigger before disassembly. Thanks for the heads up! I hope I never messed up my dad's Kimber like that! I'm sure we'd have noticed... It's a matt finish too.
Yup
I thought this was common knowledge
When the expert makes a video?
How would that ever happen? If the magazine catch doesn't move the slide stop into position the slide will just close on the round.. letting you know it's chambered. I'm not arguing against dropping the mag first.. that's obvious. This guy already prepared that pistol so he knew the mag and chamber were clear. You've never opened the slide on a mag you knew was empty just for the look and feel of doing it? I certainly have
@shep236 same reason why someone might stick their pinky in the open chamber of an AR even though they already visually checked to see if it was clear: Redundancy saves lives.
A detailed video on how to do it the hard way. I'm with the commenters who suggest releasing the spring tension first.
Well. I always remove the plug and recoil spring first. Easier when not fighting spring tension but to each his own.
Holding the spring and guide rod as you disassemble the gun deprives you of the exquisite joy of tracking down your rod and spring, especially if you do so in the kitchen!
There's nothing like the joy of spending a couple of hours on your hands and knees, searching for a spring that can't be found. Ah, yes, it gets a little easier each time the spring goes whizzing just inches from your head.
Nice gun, though. I have a Browning Hi-Power that's gorgeous. The bluing is a mile deep and I have to top my hat to the late John Browning. His guns are amazing!
Thanks for the clear and methodical demonstration! One thing you didn't mention, though, was an explanation of what exactly the "idiot scratch" is and why your method prevents it from happening. I'm still wondering what that's about.
I've always released the spring tension on the recoil spring by rotating the barrel bushing... but if your aim is to launch your guide rod across the room and have to spend the next half hour on your hands and knees looking under the furniture to try and find it, or possibly shatter any glass you might have in the room then this is exactly what you want to do lol😂
Or you can do it the correct way by removing the spring plug first.
The correct way to wear out your bushing
Interesting. But you should have released the recoil spring tension first.
Hmm I take mine apart from the front by taking the barrel bushing off
Same, that's how you are technically supposed to disassemble a 1911.
That would be the correct way to do it. He's taking his 1911 apart like it's a Tokarev. I mean, it gets the job done too. But I personally find the proper way better. Makes it easier to avoid the scratch too, because you don't have to fight the spring tension the whole time.
@@JoseARomo-qv5fk The video way is how Ed Brown did it. So your way is only proper if you think you know better than him. I'm gonna guess you don't.
Hello, I disassemble from the nose first. It removes a vast amount of spring tension. Results easy disassembly.
I guess you could also call in the GI scratch since I've never seen a government issued 1911 without it.
Somewhat bizarre take down/reassembly sequence, but a very nice pistol.
I thought the same🤔 fighting recoil spring the whole time. A lot of people that have shown take down an re assembly have never shown a close up of what tha end of the link pin is shaped like, there are 2 different ramps to defeat the detent spring . Not understanding that and how to set is the cause is the idiot scratch. Some one or myself should show that.
I admire the amount of strength you have in your hands to be able to do it that way. Btw, beautiful pistol.
yours is an absolutely pristine gun, beautiful upkeep! I just picked up a colt series 70, the previous owner definitely took care of it but there is a very light idiot scratch on it that honestly seems inevitable with a 50 year old gun. Can't complain too much when I got it for just under $500 :)
Wow! I remember they were priced above $800.00.
I have my dad‘s old 70 series colt. The original sale price was under $300. It handles very well and it is never had any feeding issues. But of course the sights suck.
The slide stop plunger on my Springfield Mil-Spec is always reluctant to give way to allow the slide top to snap into place. I have taken to using a flat precision screwdriver to push the pin back so that the slide stop snaps back into place. And, like so many other people are saying, I always take out the recoil spring first and replace it and the plug last. I use a Wilson Combat flat wire full length guide rod and recoil spring in my 1911.
The field manual says that the recoil spring should be removed first, so that you don't have to fight against the spring tension. That's what the manual says, along with common sense.
I have several chainsaws that cost over $1000.
They were pristine, and new when I bought
them. Now theyre scratched, grimy, and well
used. Its a tool. Tools are meant to be
used. With use, comes scratches, and wear. I
have a $40k excavator. I didnt pay $40k to just
admire it. It gets well used.
I say the same thing about trucks. All these people getting $50,000+ trucks adding $10,000 in mods never using it like you're supposed to use a truck. Nothing is ever in the bed. It's never been in 4x4. Never been off the road. Never had anything on the hitch. You have a truck.... use it like a truck. If that bed is not scratched up, you don't deserve it.
Still, if you could avoid needlessly damaging your tool, why wouldn’t you?
@@keithdavid5206 Exactly, gross negligence of tools is rather irksome isn't it? Take care of your tools, and if they are well made will take care of you. If you buy quality take quality time to care for it.
@@keithdavid5206I couldn’t imagine allowing a small explosion to occur in such a nice tool, only to have a hunk of copper jacketed metal scuff up the shiny rifling of that barrel.
You know this was a great add for highpoint, I never have to worry about hurting that darn thing
Barrel bushing and recoil spring should be removed first 😂 and put in last on reassembly…
In the military we were taught to release spring tension first. As far as scratches are concerned I'm not bothered by them. All my weapons have scratches because I use them.
Why not release the tension on the slide return spring first?
Uh the step after making sure it's empty is to depress the recoil spring plunger,rotate the barrel bushing then remove it and the recoil spring. Then every thing is out of tension and much much easier to remove and replace. My old Gunny would be rolling on the floor laughing at this.
The nice thing about the 1911 is that you can get a cheap one and it will shoot as well as the original GI model. An added benefit is that it won't have the gorgeous blued finish of your mint condition Colt, so you won't have to worry about scratching it.
Whilst trying to avoid the idiot scratch during my first 1911 reassembly, the slide stops slips and I end up putting a nasty gash on the slide 🫠. But now Im getting good at it. I put tape on the “idiot prone areas”. My $1500 1911 is now a range gun but I still keep it as shiny as possible. My Kimber and I had a long heart to heart, it forgives me.
I've never seen this method of disassembly and as a former Navy Torpedoman that worked with Gunners Mates during the early 80s, I never saw them break down one like this ever. Gunners Mates ran the armory on ships and shore bases.
I don’t understand many of the negative comments here. While the title might be a little off (I don’t see this method helping prevent an idiot scratch), the creator did a fine job presenting an alternative takedown method for a tightly fitted 1911. Most of my 1911’s I field strip the traditional way. My Colt Hawk has a fitted barrel bushing. No way I can turn that thing without a wrench and my understanding was the field strip procedure demonstrated here by the author helped preserve that tight fit. I could be wrong. I almost always am. Either way, great video and a beautiful Colt.
It sure looks like you haven’t served in any branch of the US Military. Releasing recoil spring tension is alway the first step in disassembly. Other than that, nice video.
everything is under tension taking apart and reassembly,,,,i press the spring stop in first and rotate bushing to let spring plug out so there is no tension,,,,,,then removing pin to the left is extra easy,,,,,same with installlation, put the pin in first and no tension,,,,then install spring and plug,,,
I bought an M1911 from CMP 3 years ago. It was a Remington gun and had been refinished. It also came with an "idiot scratch".
that's the BEST color scheme on the 1911! one of the best looking pistols ever made !
You are obviously not the Sgt. I had in 1965 screaming while spiting in my ear with something resembling instructions mixed with a litany of obscenities, and dangers of VC overrunning my position. You do present an extremely fine example of keeping your cherry slabside pristine. 👍👍
Push in the plug and rotate the barrel bushing first. Then take out the plug and the spring. Then the bushing. Now, you can pull the slide to the rear and lie up the takedown notch while it is not under pressure.
I don't even own a 1911... This is just satisfying to watch and listen too.
You should own at least one. You will not regret it. Even the cheap ones-Rock Island Armory and Tisas and Girsan-are good.
@@jamesorth1521 If I get one I would either get an original 1911A1 or a A! copy that I can turn into a Snake Eater 1911A1:
th-cam.com/video/-sTgRA2BlZs/w-d-xo.html
@TheStrayHALOMAN I have a collection of 1911s. In my opinion, the only model that I DON'T want to own is a Series 80. Otherwise I have not found one I don't like.
That is an absolutely gorgeous Colt! ❤❤❤
Don't intend to buy one but man that 1911 is absolutely gorgeous 🤩
You are INCORRECT Sir. The recoil spring is NOT under 'Tension' but Compression.
Beautiful 1911.
I tried this method and found it MUCH harder to do because your spring is under compression the entire time. Also, on my full-sized Kimber I couldn't get the spring assembly out like you showed. Thanks, but I'll stick with the method in the manual that has you remove the bushing and spring first.
If there wasn't a round in the chamber when you started there is one there now. Also why fight with the spring when it is so easy to remove it prior to trying to disassemble the weapon.
I have disassembled many 1911's but never like that...weird.
Good quick demo, thanks for sharing 👍
thanks for the tip. that is a GORGEOUS pistol.
I prefer taking the spring tension off. In harsh conditions out in the bush, thinking about scratches doesnt even enter the mind. It looks like a pretty new .45
It's not a glock. You remove the spring and guide rod first.
Beautiful 1911
Bro I’m high off shrooms and the introduction startled me
I got my idiot scratch immediately, Thank you
Very good video! I've been using 1911s a long time, and I never seem to reassemble them the same way, twice! LOL!!!! Yes, way back when, I've lost many a Recoil Spring Plunger! LOL!
Don Blake
Crazy how much the Koucký brothers improved on this design with the CZ 75.
That is a beautiful 1911.
Thanks man. I haven’t shot my 1911 enough yet to do a field strip. I heard about the rookie frame scratch👍👍
Has anyone owned or cleaned a Glock?
Any Glock.
My first was the Glock 17.
Gun of the year 1987.
Two 17 round magazines standard.
Walking around with 34 + 1= 35 rounds ready to go. Never have to worry about a safety. Just pull the trigger.
Very easy to take apart and clean. Very few parts, anyone can do it. 3 parts when taken apart.
Barrel, Spring, one part I have no idea what the name is. Fits inside the spring. Don't have to worry about rust it's all polymer. Most of it anyway.
This was the gun I purchased after making the mistake of selling my Uzi carbine. I had no idea how valuable it was going to become. On the other hand I really couldn't walk around with it either.
ALWAYS ALWAYS drop the mag FIRST.
...gorgeous Series 70!!!
Gun collector issues meanwhile im over here slinging my stuff around only caring if it goes click or boom
Would you consider taking out the recoil spring plunger first? Then the recoil spring so you don’t struggle with the slide and slide stop removal?
I bet this guy is loads of fun at parties...
My gunsmith cuts a small grove into the retainer pin to allow the indent ball to fall straight in. Works like a champ.
Great video sir ❤. Thanks for sharing
Best of luck 🍀🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I "idiot scratched" my brand-new beautiful PM-7... Grrrrr! But it is still a thing of beauty. Live and lean... (sometimes the hard & expensive way).
When confirming a weapon is not loaded, ALWAYS remove the source of ammunition (in this case, the magazine) first.
I am a Revolver Man a Ruger SA but if had to use a automatic it would be 1911 45 exactly like that. what a beautiful weapon.
The method of disassembling and reassembling the 1911 shown is not how I learned in the Army.
1. Remove the magazine first then lock the slide to the rear and inspect the chamber. Always remove the source of ammunition first.
2. Allow the slide to go forward and push down on the spring plug rotate the barrel bushing to allow the spring plug to come out while maintaining pressure so as not allow the plug to shoot across the room. Remove the plug from the pistol.
3. Pull the slide back to engage the slide catch with the small notch and pressing the tip of the slide catch, remove the slide catch to release the slide.
4. Remove the plug from the pistol and rotate the barrel bushing the other direction to remove the slide along with barrel, the operating rod and spring.
Reassemble in the reverse fashion.
The spring plug is always the first part removed and always the last part replaced. Removing the plug releases tension on the operating spring and allows much easier disassembly and reassembly.
Had I followed the procedure shown here I would have had hell to pay with that man wearing the Smokey the Bear hat.
Easy, straight forward, and no B.S., although I do not have an M1911 as of right now, when I get one I will refer to this video, thanks!
personally I would option to release the slide spring first, disassembly and reassembly with that spring under tension is a recipe for disaster.
I was going to suggest he try removing the spring FIRST, and reinstalling it LAST, but I see someone else already mentioned that method.
I have no words, no words....
On a stainless one, I can refinish that in a heartbeat
This is a joke right? This is how NOT to disassemble/reassembly a Colt or any other manufacture 1911.
I think you did a pretty good job. Thanks!
Good grief, you're doing it the hard way by fighting against the pressure of the recoil spring.
Supposed to take the recoil spring out first any disassembly manual tells you that
Damn that Colt is beautiful, I didn’t have the big bucks for one of those. Settled on a Springfield SS Range Officer. I should have watched your video before disassemble. I gave it the idiot scratch lol. At least stainless is forgiving and had it repaired easily.
I've never seen a 1911 torn down like this.
My Browning Hi-Power tears down like this but not a 1911.
yeah, always release the spring tension first, by doing so you dont put the tension on the slide stop pin as you remove it. for someone calling it a "No idiot scratch" your manual of arms is.....interesting
😂 Funny and painful to watch. The awkward stressed hands showed how easy, that disassembly was. Each to their own.
Why not do it the easy way so you don't gotta fight the spring while taking the slide on and off? If you don't wanna scratch it just lift it up a bit so it don't drag on the finnish
Maybe it appears that I’m fighting the spring, but it’s not really a fight per se. as far as the takedown pin is concerned, I hold it above the frame while positioning the slide for final insertion of the takedown pin.
Just seems harder compared to how I do it
Wilhelm w I’m uploading a new video in a few moments doing a comparison. I’m not trying to convert anyone, but like any process that you’re not familiar with it can be more difficult at first because you haven’t practiced it. The way I’m doing it now when I first started doing it seemed more difficult than “barrel bushing first” method, but with practice it gets easier and for me it has become easier than bushing first. YMMV.
@@wilhelmw9149 this method is also similar to an officer model takedown. it's good to know anyways.
I never thought about it. I just do they way the SFC range instructor told me to do it.
You never have to chase the spring and bushing. If you follow directions.
I always release the spring tension under the plug before anything else....
You have to have strong hands for this dis-assembly method. The better method is to release the spring first
had a DW 10MM SS Bobtail I sent back to DW to get refinished. It came ( didn't have one when it left my possession) back with that "idiot scratch". Damn.
I dont have any safe queens. Mine are all working guns.
If youre worried about such, its as good a way as any.
I pull the mag and spring first.
1:31 - it is not under "TENSION." It is "UNDER LOAD." Tension implies pulling. This load does not pull, it pushes.
I Did that with a mint 1956 NM with the.22 conversion kit in original box . My father never fogot me until his death. Scratched the frame. Had beautiful perfect blueing until then.
Definately not the Army way I learned back in 1964 and used till 1985.
I've never seen this way of field stripping a .45. I'm going to try it. But I'll wait until I get my new glasses so I can find the parts that go zoom. You just know that they will go zoom on the first attempt.
I think you should read the manual from over 100 years ago on how to disassemble this gun.
You're creating extra work for yourself by doing it that way.