A trick I just learned changing springs on a neighbors 69 Mustang. When the front bolt is frozen in the sleeve I found that cutting the spring off with a cutoff wheel where it loops around and then cranking the loop 180* and cutting through it again allows the loop to be pried off in two pieces. Then the rubber cuts easily with a reciprocating saw exposing the sleeve and bolt. Now with much better access use the cutoff wheel again and cut through the sleeve/bolt on both sides.
CORRECTIONS: The new ESPO leaf springs are made from 5160H Steel and the competition leaf springs don't have an extra leaf. They are still a 4-leaf but are thicker steel so are a higher spring rate, and they will sit 1/2-3/4" lower than the standard springs. Also, it's recommended not to reuse U-bolts too many times as they can only be re-torqued so much.
Goodness gracious Don it's good to see your face again and a new, informative video! We the cougar family are blessed to have you on our side. Say hello to the team and thank you for all the orders that went out from your place so FAST! May God bless you and the entire family at WCCC.
Thanks Don! I spoke to you over a year ago about this. Had bought the 2" lifted springs and installed them. Just got the improved handling to install and it looks so much better now. I watched this video and figured out a few things that I did wrong last time and corrected it this time.
I'm more a Jeep/4WD truck kinda guy and in the off-road community, installing all spring lift kits is a way of life. It's always been my understanding that the factory U Bolts are made of mild steel when installed, they stretch. Thus, the reason to replace the U Bolt with a stronger, unmolested, upstretched fasteners.
Don't forget to put on your safety glasses when wire brushing rusty stuff. The one time I didn't I ended up spending the afternoon at urgent care getting my eye flushed out. They are expensive too.
I really enjoy your "buying guide" videos. I'm getting so much info. I'm looking for my first classic Mustang but now I'm highly considering a Cougar because of your vids. I hope you are okay; no videos made in 2021. Thank you and take care.
Great video Don. FYI, I bought a brand new 1968 Mustang GT 390/4-speed. With less than 1000 miles on it, I returned it to the dealer because the rear end sagged over 3/4" on the driver's side. The dealer replaced both leaf springs. It helped somewhat. Your sag could just be factory installed poor workmanship.
Why do you feel the need to attach the axle before attaching the rear shackle? By attaching the rear shackle first you can use the leaf spring to carry the weight of the axle and you won’t create the trouble associated with attaching the shackles last.
I'm counting on my springs coming out as easily as yours! Every other video I've seen, the guys are cursing and swearing at the rusted bolt. I guess that penetrating oil really works!
I just changed the rear leaf springs on my 1971 Mustang. One of the front bolts was rusted to the sleeve, nothing would make it move, I thought I would need to cut it out, but I got the air hammer and I was able to break it free. An air hammer will break the sleeve from the bolt.
I had exactly the same thing happen on my '68 with new ESPO springs, it ended up 3/4" higher on the passenger side. I replaced the front springs with the 620lb 1" lowering and the front sits dead level side to side. Maybe it's just a thing with 67-68s that the body flexes in such a way over the years. I know the floor pans have been replaced at some point so that may have played a part as well.
The Torino guys have far less parts available and when we do they are expensive. I was able to use the used lower brackets off your site for the same year cougar. Same with the isolator. Both were 100% identical to the bad parts out of the car.
Don: Nice video. Brings back memories! Any reason you did not apply anti seize to the front eyelet bolts to help avoid future seizing of the bolts to the metal sleeves?
Good job, but take your ride height measurement between the floor and wheel opening not the rear bumper. It is more accurate. You are allowed 3/8” difference side to side.
Still off by close to an inch after the swap huh? Maybe there's something to be said for unmatched springs after all, that would straighten that problem right out. lol
While the car is in the air you could jack up the differential until the car just barely starts lifting off the lift itself to put all the load of the car on the rear suspension so you can then torque all springs and brackets in the air rather than on the floor
As a mecanic i remember well learning in school we should never reuse U bolt and as it's a critical part holding your rear end we should not mess with it to save few buck... Don' t have much parts on a car who should not be reuse in fact that the only one exept heads bolt i remember. I know some people will take that chance but imagine even if we have to replace this part on almost new car how it is on a old classic having 55 years old u bolt streach in place then suddently release and restreach for a other round loll What a mess if that fail
I need rubber spring pads. My car is a 1967 Fairlane. My pads measure about 7" in lenght. Only ones I find are less then 6, like your Cougar pads, which most say are the same. Will your pads stretch out when installed, an inch in lenght? Are mine actually different and no one has them or are mine just stretched from the years?
I tried looking up that part for the Fairlane in the Ford Master Parts Catalog (MPC), but Ford does not list the Rear Spring Isolators for the Fairlane. The Ford Part number for the part on the Cougar is C6OZ-5741-A, and when I do a web search for that part number, multiple sites show that as the part needed for a 66-70 Fairlane. I checked with the manufacturer, and they list C6OZ-5741 as fitting all 66-69 Fairlanes. I found one source that said some Fairlanes with heavy duty leafs used C4GY-5741-A, but the only replacements available are C6OZ-574-A, which supposedly fit either application. We sell the set of (4) C6OZ-5741-A on our site: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/i6f10-x4.html
Thanks for sharing. I always wondered about those rubber insulators between the axle and the spring. Do they make a difference in road noise inside the car and would it be a a possible upgrade to a mustang?
There is a good reproduction readibly available for under $200: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14034-Air-Cleaner-Assembly-Oval-Walking-Cat-Repro-1967-1973-Mercury-Cougar.html (although backordered from the manufacturer at the moment). The originals are quite a bit harder to come by, so you could possibly find someone who wanted an original over the repop. You could see if there were any takers over at: www.classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=9
@@ElSob94803 I asked a couple guys around the shop and they are certian that is not an original, it sounds like something someone made up. There are some home made ones floating around where someone took the emblem off of another Cougar or got a repro emblem, ground off the ford logo from a oval air cleaner and apoxied on a cougar emblem. That is our best guess at what you have. Someone still might be willing to give you a few bucks for it, but it is not as desireable as an actual original, and not something we would be interested in. Hope that helps.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar I would like to send you a picture so you could see exactly what I'm talking about. It was in the trunk of a Cougar that I bought in the 90's.
@@ElSob94803 Our contact us page on our website will allow you to attach up to 3 pics to a message to us: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/Contact_Us.html#Email_Us
A trick I just learned changing springs on a neighbors 69 Mustang. When the front bolt is frozen in the sleeve I found that cutting the spring off with a cutoff wheel where it loops around and then cranking the loop 180* and cutting through it again allows the loop to be pried off in two pieces. Then the rubber cuts easily with a reciprocating saw exposing the sleeve and bolt. Now with much better access use the cutoff wheel again and cut through the sleeve/bolt on both sides.
CORRECTIONS: The new ESPO leaf springs are made from 5160H Steel and the competition leaf springs don't have an extra leaf. They are still a 4-leaf but are thicker steel so are a higher spring rate, and they will sit 1/2-3/4" lower than the standard springs. Also, it's recommended not to reuse U-bolts too many times as they can only be re-torqued so much.
Love your honest assessment and diagnosis at the end.
Goodness gracious Don it's good to see your face again and a new, informative video! We the cougar family are blessed to have you on our side. Say hello to the team and thank you for all the orders that went out from your place so FAST! May God bless you and the entire family at WCCC.
Thanks Don! I spoke to you over a year ago about this. Had bought the 2" lifted springs and installed them. Just got the improved handling to install and it looks so much better now. I watched this video and figured out a few things that I did wrong last time and corrected it this time.
Thanks for the video, Don. We would love to see more content on a regular basis, however I understand what a year we've all had!
I'm more a Jeep/4WD truck kinda guy and in the off-road community, installing all spring lift kits is a way of life.
It's always been my understanding that the factory U Bolts are made of mild steel when installed, they stretch.
Thus, the reason to replace the U Bolt with a stronger, unmolested, upstretched fasteners.
Don't forget to put on your safety glasses when wire brushing rusty stuff. The one time I didn't I ended up spending the afternoon at urgent care getting my eye flushed out. They are expensive too.
Good to see you again Don!
I really enjoy your "buying guide" videos. I'm getting so much info. I'm looking for my first classic Mustang but now I'm highly considering a Cougar because of your vids. I hope you are okay; no videos made in 2021. Thank you and take care.
Good timing, My next project for my 68!
Great video Don. FYI, I bought a brand new 1968 Mustang GT 390/4-speed. With less than 1000 miles on it, I returned it to the dealer because the rear end sagged over 3/4" on the driver's side. The dealer replaced both leaf springs. It helped somewhat. Your sag could just be factory installed poor workmanship.
Why do you feel the need to attach the axle before attaching the rear shackle? By attaching the rear shackle first you can use the leaf spring to carry the weight of the axle and you won’t create the trouble associated with attaching the shackles last.
Great to see a new vid from WCCC!
Jeremiah Johnson from Hawaii!! Big shout out!
Glad you found a new camera man!
Don, this video was so helpful! Thank you!
Welcome back. Missed ya
I'm counting on my springs coming out as easily as yours! Every other video I've seen, the guys are cursing and swearing at the rusted bolt. I guess that penetrating oil really works!
I just changed the rear leaf springs on my 1971 Mustang. One of the front bolts was rusted to the sleeve, nothing would make it move, I thought I would need to cut it out, but I got the air hammer and I was able to break it free. An air hammer will break the sleeve from the bolt.
I had exactly the same thing happen on my '68 with new ESPO springs, it ended up 3/4" higher on the passenger side. I replaced the front springs with the 620lb 1" lowering and the front sits dead level side to side. Maybe it's just a thing with 67-68s that the body flexes in such a way over the years. I know the floor pans have been replaced at some point so that may have played a part as well.
The Torino guys have far less parts available and when we do they are expensive. I was able to use the used lower brackets off your site for the same year cougar. Same with the isolator. Both were 100% identical to the bad parts out of the car.
Don: Nice video. Brings back memories! Any reason you did not apply anti seize to the front eyelet bolts to help avoid future seizing of the bolts to the metal sleeves?
Good job, but take your ride height measurement between the floor and wheel opening not the rear bumper. It is more accurate. You are allowed 3/8” difference side to side.
Good work!😀
I know it was probably an optical illusion, but it looked like the upper insulator pad wasn't installed when installing the driver's side U-bolts?
Thanks Don
Still off by close to an inch after the swap huh? Maybe there's something to be said for unmatched springs after all, that would straighten that problem right out. lol
great work
good video I have a falcon sprint - nice cougar
While the car is in the air you could jack up the differential until the car just barely starts lifting off the lift itself to put all the load of the car on the rear suspension so you can then torque all springs and brackets in the air rather than on the floor
JACKING YOUR CAR UP WHEN ITS ON A LIFT SOUNDS STUIPED TO ME SMH
As a mecanic i remember well learning in school we should never reuse U bolt and as it's a critical part holding your rear end we should not mess with it to save few buck... Don' t have much parts on a car who should not be reuse in fact that the only one exept heads bolt i remember. I know some people will take that chance but imagine even if we have to replace this part on almost new car how it is on a old classic having 55 years old u bolt streach in place then suddently release and restreach for a other round loll What a mess if that fail
Ur like the mr rogers of classic cars lol
I need rubber spring pads. My car is a 1967 Fairlane. My pads measure about 7" in lenght. Only ones I find are less then 6, like your Cougar pads, which most say are the same. Will your pads stretch out when installed, an inch in lenght? Are mine actually different and no one has them or are mine just stretched from the years?
I tried looking up that part for the Fairlane in the Ford Master Parts Catalog (MPC), but Ford does not list the Rear Spring Isolators for the Fairlane. The Ford Part number for the part on the Cougar is C6OZ-5741-A, and when I do a web search for that part number, multiple sites show that as the part needed for a 66-70 Fairlane.
I checked with the manufacturer, and they list C6OZ-5741 as fitting all 66-69 Fairlanes. I found one source that said some Fairlanes with heavy duty leafs used C4GY-5741-A, but the only replacements available are C6OZ-574-A, which supposedly fit either application.
We sell the set of (4) C6OZ-5741-A on our site: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/i6f10-x4.html
yes, I bought 4 from you today. hopefully they will work out. great video too @@WestCoastClassicCougar
Thanks for sharing. I always wondered about those rubber insulators between the axle and the spring. Do they make a difference in road noise inside the car and would it be a a possible upgrade to a mustang?
Good question
Hey Don how about a video on putting on duel exhaust
I have had two Cougars in the past. I kept the Cougar oval air cleaner. How hard are they to come by?
There is a good reproduction readibly available for under $200: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14034-Air-Cleaner-Assembly-Oval-Walking-Cat-Repro-1967-1973-Mercury-Cougar.html (although backordered from the manufacturer at the moment). The originals are quite a bit harder to come by, so you could possibly find someone who wanted an original over the repop. You could see if there were any takers over at: www.classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=9
@@WestCoastClassicCougar mine just has the word Cougar on the front. No cat.
@@ElSob94803 I asked a couple guys around the shop and they are certian that is not an original, it sounds like something someone made up. There are some home made ones floating around where someone took the emblem off of another Cougar or got a repro emblem, ground off the ford logo from a oval air cleaner and apoxied on a cougar emblem. That is our best guess at what you have. Someone still might be willing to give you a few bucks for it, but it is not as desireable as an actual original, and not something we would be interested in. Hope that helps.
@@WestCoastClassicCougar I would like to send you a picture so you could see exactly what I'm talking about. It was in the trunk of a Cougar that I bought in the 90's.
@@ElSob94803 Our contact us page on our website will allow you to attach up to 3 pics to a message to us: secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/Contact_Us.html#Email_Us
👌
Why not paint the original spring brackets after going to the trouble of cleaning them up?
Or have you HUSBAND check on you. ;-)