DON'T Paint Your Rails
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- There's been a lot of issues with painting your rails try this instead.
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Great idea to use gun blue. I had left the bearing surfaces unpainted but had not thought to use cold blueing to keep them from rusting. I had some cold blue in the shop and treated my plasma cutter rails with it. One tip using blueing, don't dip the cotton swab back into the bottle. Its better practice to pour a bit into the cap and use that, the way I learned to do this, you never put the swab in the main container and you never pour the used stuff back into the bottle. The oxidation from the metal will ruin your un-used blueing.
Absolutely agree. I powder coated mine and regret it. I will be making new tubes here someday to fix it.
Guess I'm not the only one to add outboard support. But hey it works, more consistent cuts
FWIW, when I welded the flat bar to the top of the gantry, along the "front" side, it bent the flat bar down due to shrinkage. In my case, that would have potentially allowed for the gantry bar to sit low towards the front. I had to bend the bar back prior to welding in the angle piece underneath and all was good. I also did paint leaving channels for the bearings to travel
If you want a really cool look, looking into case harding.
Much appreciated!
I was wondering if you could use aluminum ttubing for the arm. Maybe a higher wall thickness...or would the bearings dig into it and cause problems? Thanks for the video, I've been planning my build and was going to add a support for the outside of the arm, but if I don't have to, that's great!
Bearings are hard metal and aluminum is too soft. Your rails will Wear out fast. I've made that mistake years ago on a plasma table
@@dabooge Maybe aluminum and have 3d printed wear sleeves over the bearings?
@@taxijackmusic If aluminum is used (I wouldn't) I'd use the same type of Delrin plastic rollers with bearings that are used on 3d printers. I wouldn't 3d print sleeves it's not accurate enough. It won't be concentric.
Hello GD great video in Germany I can buy electric galvanized tube for the y and x achsis what do you think about this idear 🧐🧐
Would cerakote work? Or too similar to paint?
Thanks !👍🏻🍺
I believe 1/8” aluminum is lighter then .065, 16ga. steel.
I can’t get .065 around here, so I went with 1/8” tube. It’s a little cheaper then .083.
.065 on the internet is $50-$60 for 48”.
I’m going to use aluminum for the X axis.
I’m using 2x2x1/8 angle everywhere I can, that’s a $2+ a ft. savings.
It is. I did a 1/8 sharp corner aluminum for the arm @40" and then weighed it along with a piece of the .065 steel the same length. Iirc the difference was about 2 lbs lighter on the aluminum.
@@nathancole8188 I used 4x6x1/8 wall tubing for my 6x12 build. When I priced out the 8020 profile with the over-length freight, rail nuts ect it was going to over $900. I bought 20' of the steel for $115 the kicker is it is the same weight / ft..
A trick on your sharp corner AL is to use carbide router bits and go easy, I made a aluminum shapper table with an old router.
What do you think about Electro galvanizing? Anyone tried?
Does the control box need a fan to keep things cool
Thanks for the tip. Any reason not to blue the whole rail?
Bluing costs more than paint.
Hi everyone I built the machine and it seems to be working until I got the problem when it run the arc is missing in some spots randomly even with the same cut file I don’t understand how could that happen if anyone has face this problem in the past please let me know what causes that thanks.
Can someone help me understand why paint or lack of would cause the gantry to potentially need support? In the process of building so appreciate some insight.
The bearings penetrate the paint in spots and you end up with a slightly bumpy surface. Your gantry ends up not being as smooth as it could be.
And the outboard support is absolutely not needed if the bearings are adjusted properly. I added one and have since removed it and i will not reinstall it.
If your cutting arm is not rigid enough the far end (unsupported) will be closer to the cutting surface causing poor or no cutting. By using and outboard support you keep the distance the same.