Hey. Thanks for reviewing. Speaking for myself, I absolutely love my Windlass 1796. I've a number of swords, antique, high and mid range repros, this is one of my all-time favorites. It moves and feels beautifully- cuts are so fun. It glides through tatami. I did work on the factory edge and I do use skintight leather shooting gloves that grip the leather and steel of back strap. I did also roughen the back strap with a fine file. Interestingly, I happen to own an original 1821 cavalry saber that replaces the 1796. When I handle both simultaneously with my eyes closed the feel remarkably similar in weight and balance, but move differently when swung. I prefer the 1796 when cutting, because I don't cut with antiques, even so, the 1796 just lends itself so well to the cut, obviously.. However, if I were to use the saber in an altercation, where attempts at peace, love and goodwill have failed, the1821 would be my choice. It comes on line better for thrusts and still feels like it'd cut well enough. Plus the guard is so nice. ❤ Mike, sorry you didn’t have as good of an experience with it... I still like your channel and you😂but for all those interested, speaking for my own experience, I can't recommend it enough, but to each his own...😊
Its a heavy one, no doubt about it, one of my favorite cutters...mounted at speed off my ATV is where it really shines , I wouldn't want to have to fight on foot with it! Thanks for your excellent instruction 🤠👍⚔️💯
What a nightmare! Just seeing the plastic not being attached to the inside of the scabbard kills me. My first thought was "What else is going to be messed up?". Using mustard like that is an incredible idea. Thanks for that. Take care!
If you want to shave of some weight you could make it a clipped point apparently a common modification on originals. I think Matt Easton has a video about it.
I think that neither the scabbard nor the sword should have made it through QC. As I recall, MRL's returns policy is quite good. I would detail the issues with both blade and scabbard and return it. It sounds like a good copy with your "roughening" of the backstrap might produce much better results.
@ they used to be much better at taking care of customers. You might try calling or emailing them directly. I know they are running light on admin staffing these days, so it might be a while before they see an individual review.
Actually I can recommend the cold steel Italian duelling saber. You definitely have to reprofile the edge and sand of the plastic rayskin though. Aso the foible could be a bit less flexible but you get a super manuverable and lightweight saber you can train with all day long.
If I recall, that particular sword was a disappointing thruster in combat. Let me know if I am mis-remembering, but I think I remember reports of it not penetrating heavy Russian coats and other armor.
I have had to modify almost every factory made sword I've ever had in order to fine tune them to my liking. Its just a reality of buying them to use imo.
Hey. Thanks for reviewing.
Speaking for myself, I absolutely love my Windlass 1796. I've a number of swords, antique, high and mid range repros, this is one
of my all-time favorites. It moves and feels beautifully- cuts are so fun. It glides through tatami. I did work on the factory edge and I do use skintight leather shooting gloves that grip the leather and steel of back strap. I did also roughen the back strap with a fine file.
Interestingly, I happen to own an original 1821 cavalry saber that replaces the 1796. When I handle both simultaneously with my eyes closed the feel remarkably similar in weight and balance, but move differently when swung. I prefer the 1796 when cutting, because I don't cut with antiques, even so, the 1796 just lends itself so well to the cut, obviously..
However, if I were to use the saber in an altercation, where attempts at peace, love and goodwill have failed, the1821 would be my choice. It comes on line better for thrusts and still feels like it'd cut well enough. Plus the guard is so nice. ❤
Mike, sorry you didn’t have as good of an experience with it... I still like your channel and you😂but for all those interested, speaking for my own experience, I can't recommend it enough, but to each his own...😊
Its a heavy one, no doubt about it, one of my favorite cutters...mounted at speed off my ATV is where it really shines , I wouldn't want to have to fight on foot with it! Thanks for your excellent instruction 🤠👍⚔️💯
Hell yeah
Thanks!
@@michaelrizzo5523 bless! Once you get over the qc its a great sword for the price ;)
I will definitely be trying the mustard etch with my Cold Steel version. Fantastic idea. Many thanks!
What a nightmare! Just seeing the plastic not being attached to the inside of the scabbard kills me. My first thought was "What else is going to be messed up?".
Using mustard like that is an incredible idea. Thanks for that. Take care!
After I "fixed" the scabbard I was hoping the sword itself would be okay. And then came the tests...
If you want to shave of some weight you could make it a clipped point apparently a common modification on originals. I think Matt Easton has a video about it.
@ There's some inspiration! Thanks!
The LK Chen version of this sword is pretty cool too.
Très bonne vidéo très instructives ❤
34:55 AWESOME
The St. Michael is already a favorite.
Brutal that you got a bit of a lemon, I'd definitely reach out to the company about it to see if they will make it right.
Waiting to see if I hear back from them. They never did post my negative review on their website.
34:00 historically the scabbard did have a wood liner
Yes, and I was hoping for nearly $400 they could do something better than plastic.
I think that neither the scabbard nor the sword should have made it through QC. As I recall, MRL's returns policy is quite good. I would detail the issues with both blade and scabbard and return it. It sounds like a good copy with your "roughening" of the backstrap might produce much better results.
I did give them my findings when I posted a review on their website. Didn't hear anything back. Might be within "normal" Windlass QC issues
@ they used to be much better at taking care of customers. You might try calling or emailing them directly. I know they are running light on admin staffing these days, so it might be a while before they see an individual review.
@ I just checked and they posted my 5 star review of the St. Michael but my 1796 review is still missing even though I submitted them together.
@ I had looked for your review and didn't see it either. That does not bode well.
Actually I can recommend the cold steel Italian duelling saber. You definitely have to reprofile the edge and sand of the plastic rayskin though. Aso the foible could be a bit less flexible but you get a super manuverable and lightweight saber you can train with all day long.
If I recall, that particular sword was a disappointing thruster in combat. Let me know if I am mis-remembering, but I think I remember reports of it not penetrating heavy Russian coats and other armor.
Hatchet point was not a good thruster, but at least my stiffer versions don't fold like Wushu "swords."
4:26 LMAO
I have had to modify almost every factory made sword I've ever had in order to fine tune them to my liking. Its just a reality of buying them to use imo.
It's usually my plan: buy and modify. Grip: better. Not sure yet what I might do with that blade, but expect a follow-up video in several months.
Well, that's one I'll be avoiding, sadly.
Seems like a roll of the dice QC-wise. Some folks love theirs.
@@michaelrizzo5523 I'd go for the Cold Steel version, I think. Not that bothered about historical accuracy 😎👍
KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK......MMMDDDFFFF....breathe!!! KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
There was much more cursing off camera
Cmon mike ur nitpickin