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Trad Climbing on Welcome to the Gunks at The Gunks, NY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2013
- Worth every star every guide gives it. A long series of cruxes with plenty of protection and enough rest stops along the way to make this a very enjoyable climb. I have the whole climb here for anyone that wants to steal beta. The last 40 ft I shortened to a few seconds as it probably climbs around 5.5 at best. It's your victory lap for the first 70 ft of sustained awesome climbing.
Just wanted to reiterate some gear points I made deep down in my original post. This is for any potential first time leaders looking to do this wonderful route. Obviously, these are my own opinions and every placement is a judgment call by the leader. And if you want zero gear beta for your lead, stop right here. That said ...
-The single wired stopper placement before the first roof, in my opinion, is an odd placement. Normally when you place stoppers in a horizontal, you place them in opposing pairs so that rope movement won't dislodge them and will also hold a fall that might be a little to the left or right of the stoppers. It seems odd to go with a single stopper when a) there are plenty of bomber cam placements and b) that stopper becomes the piece you need to keep you from a ground fall in case you come off above the roof on the 5.9R face.
-Speaking of the 5.9R face ... there really isn't much for pro (that's why the last piece at the first roof is so important). The small stopper placed in the video looks minimal, but okay. As the leader says, "It's something." And it's nice to have something that gives even a little confidence. However, there is actually a decent medium stopper placement to the left ... just right of an old pin in this small seam in dark orange/black rock ... get the right size .. yank it in tight and use a decent sling on it and it's legit pro.
(It's one easy-ish 5.9 face move so no need to panic. Make sure you have bomber pro at the roof, get that med stopper placement if you can and go for it. Just use caution when reaching into the giant horizontal ... some of those blocks in the back are fairly hollow.)
-Below the 2nd overhang there's the in situ pink tricam the leader uses in this video. Using in situ gear is a judgment call - but I don't understand why it wasn't backed-up -- given the fact that there are bomber cam placements in several places. The only other piece placed is the wire in the small corner of the crux overhang ... and (again personally) that is not a placement I would trust. Certainly not with anything backing up the old tricam. So at this point at the crux, the leader has 1) an iffy small stopper at the roof 2) an in situ piece of unknown quality 3) a small iffy wire at the 5.9 face and 4) a single stopper below the first roof. In this scenario it's easy to imagine that if the leader blew off the crux roof and the small, shallow wire placement blew out, you'd better pray the in situ pink tricam is bomber otherwise the small wire placement at the 5.9 face is going to rip and at that point the first piece below the first roof is meaningless (bomber or not) as it's unlikely to prevent a ground fall.
-The leader clears the crux overhang and then heads up a nice steep face to the third roof (5.8) and elects to skip several opportunities to place pro on the face. His call. Personally, given that there's a sketchy wire at the roof and beneath and old in situ piece that isn't backed up ... I'd fire in a piece on the face. Why not?
Just below the 5.8 roof, the leader places a cam into deep irregular horizontal. From what I can see in the video, that SLCD seems a little small for the placement as its cams are almost fully extended. And one shot clearly shows the irregular feature of the horizontal - pebbly top and bottom sides that widen and narrow at different points. I would have misgivings climbing above that placement. It's again a little puzzling given how many other solid bomber placements there are to be had at that roof.
End of rant.
Great climb ... wonderfully sustained if you go through all four overhangs ... don't understand why people used to bail right and rap after the 2nd hang.
And yeah ... the screaming kid(s) ... reminds me of why I stopped climbing at the Gunks on the weekends.
If I can be so bold ... I'd just like to make few comments for potential first time leaders of this route who watched the video:
-The single wired stopper placement before the first roof, in my opinion, seems a little odd. Normally when you place stoppers in a horizontal, you place them in opposing pairs so that rope movement won't dislodge them and will also hold a fall that might be a little to the left or right of the stoppers. It seems odd to go with a single stopper when a) there are plenty of bomber cam placements and b) that stopper becomes the piece you need to keep you from a ground fall in case you come off above the roof on the 5.9 face.
-Speaking of the 5.9R face ... there really isn't much for pro (that's why the last piece at the first roof is so important). But I like the small stopper placed in the video. As the leader says, "It's something." And it's nice to have something that gives even a little confidence. It's not easy to find, but there is actually a decent medium stopper placement to the left ... just right of an old pin in this small seam in dark orange/black rock ... get the right size .. yank it in tight and use a decent sling on it and it's legit pro.
-Below the 2nd overhang there's the in situ pink tricam. Using in situ gear is a judgment call -- but I don't understand why it wasn't backed-up -- given the fact that there are bomber cam placements in several places. The only other piece placed is the wire in the small corner of the crux overhang ... and (again personally) that is not a placement I would trust. Certainly not with anything backing up the old tricam.
-The leader clears the crux overhang and then heads up a nice steep face to the third roof (5.8) and elects to skip several opportunities to place pro on the face. His call. Personally, given that there's a sketchy wire at the roof and beneath and old in situ piece that isn't backed up ... I'd fire in a piece on the face.
-Just below the 5.8 roof, the leader places a cam into deep irregular horizontal. From what I can see in the video, that SLCD seems a little small for the placement as its cams are almost fully extended. And one shot clearly shows the irregular feature of the horizontal -- pebbly top and bottom sides that widen and narrow at different points. I would have misgivings climbing above that placement. It's again a little puzzling given how many other solid bomber placements there are to be had at that roof.
Lmao how did I know he would pass up a bomber #2 spot to clip a pin from the '40s
Yeah idk why he did that...sometimes ppl make weird decisions on the rock. Thought the same thing myself.
I know these videos are a couple years old but as I started pushing into leading hard 9’s and 10’s at the Gunks, I’ve been finding watching these videos super helpful to identify key crux moves and gear placements. I like the thrill of going into a route blind (aside from notes in a guidebook), but sometimes I really like knowing what to look out for
Who the hell brings a baby to the gunks haha
you nut placement before the first roof is really bizarre. It doesnt seems to be very secure before a crux ! If it fails, it is a ground fall !!
That horizontal crack is just perfect for a red Alien !!!
Otherwise nice video !
Ban babies and dogs at the Gunks.
awesome! this route looks like fun
At 11 minutes he used someone's protective hardware that was left behind? Is that safe or common?
CVR IV Pink Tri-cam. Super bomber, but if you fall on it, good luck getting it out.
It's a judgement call as far as safety. In this case, the most suspect component would be the webbing that has been exposed to elements for a time. Most people if they do use them will back them up with something else. I probably should back them up as will as the pitons more often then I do.
Shit like this makes me real happy to have climbed this route 30 years ago and to have moved on from that scene.
What was so nice about climbing was that it was still mostly under the radar at that point. Videos like this are anathema to what the pursuit was really all about.
Wow, sorry it didn't meet your expectations.
I mean, I'm cool with criticism, I get a good bit of it. I take note, maybe learn something and move on. Hopefully without needlessly being demeaning.
But to cite this video, an achievement I take a lot of pride in (even now 3 years of experience and development later), as the epitome of everything gone wrong and evil with climbing I think goes just little to far.
I'm not about The Gunks being "gymafied" either but I can't help that. If it's of any consolation, we're all better off now that you moved on.
Not sure what Gunks you are referring to but I climbed in the Gunks back in 75 to 88 and there were routes back then you would have to wait to get on, the popular ones. I suppose climbing has become more popular especially with climbing gyms. I suppose this has also helped those who want to make a living in the climbing industry better. I have very good memories of climbing at the Gunks and I am sure its still great. Great climbing and video, thanks
the baby crying at how bad your slab climbing technique ......