RIP Mr Newberry, you still helping people even after almost 9years of having departed, God bless your soul, you left a good legacy gone but not forgotten semper fi
Bill...guy...out of all yhe videos on the tube this one got me where I'm going. Last night i was 100% clueless and didn't even own a multimeter. So i went to Walmart and got one ...watched a bunch of videos.. Tested element continuity ..good Tested the thermal probe thing...good(1.047) Tested the 3 prong plug (everyone else was 4 or unclear) AND i tested where the plug meets the stove. "Last thing that leaves"...is main control and i found 4 burnt spots where the wiring harness plugs into it and the panel even says "Bake"...thank you. You were crystal clear....perfect explanation, and clear video. You helped me.... Thanks again.
Your stove basics nailed it. I went thru power source, STAT, and top element --- bottom element was burnt clean through! Thank you for saving us money and inconvenience.
Thanks Bill, watching this video gave me the confidence I needed to take a look before my wife started shopping for a new range. I'll be swapping the control board once the part comes in.
This video helped me easily diagnose what was wrong with my stove. My contractor friend told me how to fix correctly. Stove now works for $25 in parts! Thanks!!!
I have watched many of Bill’s videos and don’t think I have ever questioned any of them. That being said, I would like to point out some stoves have thermal cutoffs to kill the oven if it gets too hot. Imo, the temp probe can be the cause of this. Also, the relays and other parts on the board can be replaced if one has the knowledge to test and replace them along with other board parts, resistors, capacitors, etc,. I have always appreciated Bill’s videos, just thought I would point this out.
He said the control board can be service but he said not at his skill level. For the thermal cut off’s that is true from your experience can you tell the people where they are normally located at? I think that would be more helpful than trying to just point out to Bill where he messed up
@@TalkinTuesdays By no means did I intend to demean Bill. This above my skill level too. I was just pointing that boards can many times be repaired. His videos were some of the main ones I would watch when I started dealing with appliances. I have thought about getting into board repair, but will be 68 next month and not sure I will with so much going on here now with other things I need to take of. I do wish I had gotten into it earlier. I would love to be able to repair $200 boards with a $4 part. Repairing boards in these newer pieces of junk could be very profitable. Just now seeing this, or I would already have responded.
If the probe goes bad, will that cause a door lock/no display lights/but stove tops still working? We did a self clean that did this, and from other videos they cite the 'thermostat fuse' as the likely suspect. Its an older ge electric jbp76gs3ww oven. In taking off the back, and raising the top - I see nothing that resembles a 'fuse'. Behind the main knob is a couple circuit boards, a smaller brown one with components attached to a larger green circuit board - but nothing that looks like a fuse. I saw another video of a newer model where the thermostat fuse was circular, which looks like the oven light socket - which hasn't worked in years - but unless a fuse is built into the socket, I can find any fuse. Is this what I'm looking for, if this probe/sensor goes bad - will that allow the stove tops to work, but lock the door and kill the display control board lights. The control board has what looks like a mini transformer on it, 2 white wide bands, and then do have some brown discoloration - but its slight and not all encompassing. Thanks for your time, and any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Great trouble shooting video. However, I wish you'd gone into greater detail about the control board. Are there ways to test/further test the board using a multimeter? How is a specific board identified; model, type? and how does one (being an average Joe without company parts supplier connection) best go about getting a replacement board, or, any other appliance parts, for that matter? Thx for taking the time to make and post the video. Very helpful..
Bill in your experience those relays on the control board. Do they sometimes spark a small blue spark when they open? Meaning when you turn the oven off? I have an issue where the element has been staying on even after turning the oven off. I can pop the relay contact open and the element turns off and works properly for a while but then it would stick itself back together within a few days. I just replaced the control board and things seem to be operating normal but there is still that slight blue spark when shutting off. I hope it doesn’t start sticking again as well.
Great explanation. Exactly how my 2012 Frigidaire tested. Unfortunately my control board isn’t available anymore. What confuses me is I get 120v on each side of my baking element but not 240 across the element when bake is on.
Hey Bill. I have a Maytag Model MER8800Z?0 The bake element more or less burned up while my wife was cooking. No it wasn’t the bad foods fault. Anyway, I changed the element which was broken in three places. Nothing in the back looks burned ( board, wiring block etc). I ordered a new thermal fuse. Could this be the problem? All the burners work. But neither the new baking element or the broiler element work. I’m trying not to have to call a service guy here in PoDunk USA 🇺🇸 Thoughts. Thanks for the informative video.
Thanks for this from a novice. . Your method of checking the bake element from the back instead of removing it to check just saved me a ton of work. Just wondering if there was a fuse to be checked. I have a Kenmore oven with broiler working , but not baking. Subscribed.
excellent video, Any advise on if the top & bottom oven stopped working and all tests done in this video come back good? Frididaire convection oven stopped heating on both bottom & top oven within hours of it working properly for lasagna
Enjoyed the lesson! What would make one burn at the spade contact of the Infinite switch on a oven with the knob? Don't wanna just fix the part I'd like to fix the why also so it doesn't happen again hopefully. Thanks again from all of us who are a little electrically challenged!
All contacts should be tightened properly. If you have a loose contact, an electrical current will heat-up that connection due to high resistance, and burn it. If the infinite switch is located on top of the glass-top, the water spill may also short and burn the switch.
Help! We had an element replaced twice in a 45 yr old kenmore oven, this last replacement (about a year old) caught on fire. Now our warranty company wants to just replace it for a third time, and I’m terrified it will just catch on fire again! Are there some very old ovens where it’s just not possible to replace the element? Why does it keep failing, and in this case, catching on fire!? Any information would be greatly appreciated
Bill, I have a Frigidaire stove Gallery Series model CGLES385FS4. Doesn't work cannot use the oven. I did everything you mentinned in the video. Test the elements OK now it was not broken but crooked I changed it, test the thermostat ok (inside the oven), Test electricity source Ok. So I have changed the controle board and still the oven doesn't work. Frankly I don't have a clue what can I do next. Can you help anny idea?
My oven over heats real bad. And then turns off by itself. I don't have your tools to see exactly what the matter is. Is it the control board or something else?
I have a lg and I got current to back of the range but nothing lights up on the top board to turn burners on or the clock. I had some sparks near the front large burner.
Hi my leisure electric double oven just stopped working, elements at the top all work but both ovens and lights went out and they not heating, I'm ruling out elements as both gave gone and lights, assuming it's electric problem to the bottom half, any suggestions please. Ty
My oven heat Element went out on the bottom. We replaced it 3 months ago and it went out again last night. The oven was here when we moved it. It looks to be 17 years old. What would cause it to happen again? Is it just to old. Trying to figure out if it’s worth doing again or just getting a new oven.
My bake element resistance is down around 16-17. Upper element is 23-24 and a spare unused element I have here from a different oven is also 23-24. Is the lower element bad? It shows little signs of high heat and our problem is poor, slow and inconsistant heating of the oven. Most of the heating seems to be coming from the upper element. This is an LG convection oven from 2012 has been a recurring problem for several years now. It goes through phases of being tolerable to times like now where it takes all day to cook a small turkey. Up until this round of troubleshooting I have been undecided as to what the problem might be. Do element fail in this manner (too little resistance)?
My bottom oven element welded itself out of existence. I went and purchased a new element and installed it as I have done many times with many stoves. I put it back together and now there is no power to either the broil or bake element. I bypassed the fuse block to no avail. I am assuming it has something to do with what initially happened but I am out of ideas. Do you have any thoughts? The stove top burners work and the oven light works.
Thanks for the video. What do you do when checking for 240 volts at the stove you get 120 red and white and black and white, but nothing at red and black checking for 240? I checked the breaker(s) and it is fine.
I have a glass top maytag digital oven and my element made a loud frying sound so element went out so my husband replaced the element and the oven still wont work the digital part is on and eyes all work but nothing in oven works what could be wrong worked fine til element went out
Had a question if your red to white has voltage and red to black does too but your black to white doesn’t what does that mean(new stove clock,lights and oven not working)
Thanks for the great how-to video. Of considerable help was the resistance values you gave, exactly what I was looking for. All of my parts tested out just fine however, so I put the thing back together and said what the heck, just one more try. Praise be to Him, oven worked just fine. I'm guessing dirty connector or something.
Hello I have had this trouble with my stove and it's all electric for a while. Out of nowhere my stove started beeping and flashing bad line and this is a consistent beep. I ended up having to unplug the stove. Now my stove is 220 volts what I did was I moved it from where it's plugged in and I plugged it into the AC 220 volt outlet and it works fine it doesn't beep and say bad line does that mean that there's a problem with my wires inside the wall? I've already got a new breaker and I've already got a new outlet 2 20 volt outlet it's still flashing bad line when I plug it into the one it's always been plugged into.......help!!! Lol
I believe my lower burner is burnt out. Can I simply remove it from the stove and test it table top? The broiler works. After a while, the temp gauge for bake switches on and off around 250 degrees, so I'm assuming the thermostat is functing properly. Is it wrong to test it like this?
You stopped too soon on your repair. Where can I find a video that shows how to repair the control board for a ykerc507hw4 kitchenaid stove? I mean change out the relays or resistors or transitors. My control board costs $357.00 and its also obsolete. Land fills are filling up with stoves that have obsolete control boards?
Bill I have a Whirlpool accu bake Whirlpool Range i had a surge while selfcleaning and Trouble shooting shown possible thermo fuse problem . Burners all work but no power to control board ., After I replaced the theromfuse . Still no power to oven and control board . So I bought a control board. Just installed and STILL NO POWER ON BOARD or oven . Burners work >
If you already replaced the control board and the thermo-fuse, there may be another fuse in the circuit. To find it you need to look at the schematics for your unit. What is the model number of the range, I'll try to look it up. PS, most of the problems with ranges occur after the self-cleaning is done, so while it's convenient, try not to use it in the future.
Just bought new stove range burners work but no power to oven or electronic controls to program stove, on my 3 prong outlet my meter shows 247v across, 117v from neutral to hot on one side and 127v from neutral to hot on the other side still no power to oven.please help.
One thing that would be nice is explain what to set the multi meter on for what ever your checking do I put it on DC or ac do i put it on 250 ,150 or what i dont understand your video
My thermometer gave me around 730 ohms. Ordered a new one and the new one read the same. Replaced it anyway and the stove still doesn’t work. Everything else checks out. Bad thermostat or should I try replacing the circuit board. Already $50 deep. Replaced a burnt out element and thermostat.
HEY !!BILL,,getting shocks from,,LANG commercial electric sove,,which is just like a residential one,,found one of the eyes has 12 volts from eye to body of stove when turned on,,,defective eye???? other ones read o voltage,,no answers for this on youtube
Hey Bill. Great video! ... My oven's bake element is not heating. Element resistance checked ok. Temperature sensor checked ok. I checked conductivity for the wires connecting the element. No visible damage on the relay or the board where the relay is attached. All other elements are working properly including the broil element. What other test can I do before replacing the control board? P.S. I have an oven from the same family with the one from the video. Thank you!
so my broiler (top element) works but not my baker element? what could it be ? everything else checked out. proper oms i mean... i'm stuck! please help!
Hi bill How to disconnect the oven And stove would still work I just want to disconnect the oven permanently due to renter issues, they do not clean after use It can cause fire if full of grease Thank you
Thank you bill. Excellent video. Should have watched this before i ordered an oven element. It was only a connector to the Kenmore element. But better safe than sorry. But a thourough video anyways!!! Now you need to be like A1 auto and sell some cheap repair parts to go with your excellent video's! !!
Wait why are so many mechanics say if the terminal block is broken you will not get power to the unit?? I have a Frigidaire wall oven and it has no power i am wondering if this is the problem the terminal block??
Hi. I have a brand new KitchenAid oven and everytime i plug it in it blow the suppressor!! I checked the oven connection and it seems fine. Could a faulty electrical connection from the fusebox to the plug cause this?
Thanks for the video. I checked the temperature probe and you said it should be around 1080 ohms, but mine was only reaching 780 or so. Does this mean it is dead or dying? My oven stopped working but the top burners still worked. I followed your video and everything before the probe was good.
The resistance of a temperature probe (RTD) increases as the temperature inside the oven increases. So the resistance of only 780 is way too low as if the temperature inside the oven is below freezing. If you replace the temperature probe, but the oven still doesn't work, I think the high limit fuse is blown. The temperature probe was probably showing a low temperature while it was too high, so the oven overheated and blew the fuse.
yes a stove "can" run on 220v usually power is in an acceptable 'range" and anywhere from 228 252 v in the US you'd need to know a bit more about what your incoming power is SUPPOSED to be because I think 208 is a standard range too. but you can't power a stove off 2 120 legs unless you are using different circuits from the box, in which case, really you are just using normal 240v power. IF you survive such a project the insurance company will laugh at you though.
K read the "read me" more part lol so forget the other question. The reason I aske was when you check the 220 v connection on the oven it shows the left and middle 120 v and the right and middle 120 v and left and right 220 v
it can be done but not code you ll need 2 single 40a breakers don t put both on the same side of your panel, opposite sides, so they balance and you'll still need gage 8 wire to run that much current all this will cost you more than if you did it right
Thank you for this video. Awesome with the explanations also great steps with the testing of the element. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾. Maybe you can help me with my stove. I have a Frigidaire gas stove top with an electric baking. I tested the the outlet, power cord and both are getting good reading. I also replaced the computer board. The issue the electricity is being cut off somewhere. The oven light doesn’t comes on when I open the oven door and the computer board doesn’t light up. The burners igniters are working because there electricity getting to them. I tested the light bulb and it works. You have any idea what it may be cause the electricity not cycling through to the components? HEEEEELLP!!!!
i have a tappan electric stove and oven wont turn on it just clicks heating element is good and power is good what could be other issue ? appreciate it
I have a Whirlpool GR448LXPB2 oven that takes forever to heat up. I can set it for 400 degrees and in an hour or so it might reach 350. Have checked all the voltages and they seem ok. Any ideas? :-) Thanks in advance.
I would ohm the temp control. Am a little surprised Bill did not mention the thermal fuse. Not that the thermal fuse would cause it to take longer to heat. It would shut the oven off completely. I have recalibrated an older stove. Don't think the newer ones have a calibration screw. I would definitely check the temp control AND maybe the door seal.
Rickey Keeton Thank you so much for this information. I have checked the door seal and a number of other areas but this problem happened all at once and not over time. Can you tell me what I should expect when checking the resistance (ohms) of the temp control? I also would wonder what the resistance should be for the heating element. I know the voltage to the element is 240 but what abort the ohms of this element? Thank you in advance
@@stedhomer Temp control around 1.8k ohms. Element Bill shows to be around 23 ohms. I usually consider them good if the meter shows 0.00 ohms. I could be wrong on that. That may be a malfunction on my meter, but I usually just try make sure there is continuity and no short in the element. To check for short in the element place one lead of meter on the inner part of element, the other on the outter. Should show OL. If the temp control checks good, and it has an electronic board, I susoect a relay or something on the board is bad. Check the elements to see if they read like he says. I find it a little odd if BOTH iven elements take a long time to reach set temp.
Great video! Love the step to step guide. You made it easy to understand. I do have one question. Im thinking of buying a multimeter so i can learn the trade (troubleshoot appliances). Do you have any recommendations for a beginner like me.
what if the top oven broil element work but the bottom bake element (in the oven) don't work, and it's not broken(the bottom bake element) and has a clear current.
Hey, I've having some trouble finding the problem in our oven. -oven won't heat above 100°c -all three heating elements read ±30 Ω and have continuity -i can find 3 thermal fuses, all have continuity -thermometer has been replaced but still reads 235000 Ω What should I try next?
I'm at basically the same point as Numino below was four months ago. Checked everything on my two year old oven same results. Elements cycling glowing when on, oven temp sensor reading per chart at room temp and when oven controller reads 350 F. Guess I will try replacing the temp sensor anyway since replacing the controller just is my last option.
My burners work but when I turn the oven on to bake it shuts off like seconds after and says power interruption and even when not using the oven or burners i hear a click and it’s the oven shutting off anthem back on saying the same thing....what would be the problem?
RIP Mr Newberry, you still helping people even after almost 9years of having departed, God bless your soul, you left a good legacy gone but not forgotten semper fi
7 years after this video was posted, it is the best video that helped me with my repair tonight
Bill...guy...out of all yhe videos on the tube this one got me where I'm going.
Last night i was 100% clueless and didn't even own a multimeter. So i went to Walmart and got one ...watched a bunch of videos..
Tested element continuity ..good
Tested the thermal probe thing...good(1.047)
Tested the 3 prong plug (everyone else was 4 or unclear) AND i tested where the plug meets the stove.
"Last thing that leaves"...is main control and i found 4 burnt spots where the wiring harness plugs into it and the panel even says "Bake"...thank you. You were crystal clear....perfect explanation, and clear video. You helped me....
Thanks again.
Bill; you've created the best electric oven troubleshooting video out there. Clear, concise video.
Your stove basics nailed it. I went thru power source, STAT, and top element --- bottom element was burnt clean through! Thank you for saving us money and inconvenience.
Same here. I just commented my situation and it's similar
How he explains each step makes it easy and understand how to repair the toaster oven
It show how to identify the broken parts and how to fix it
Thanks Bill, watching this video gave me the confidence I needed to take a look before my wife started shopping for a new range. I'll be swapping the control board once the part comes in.
This video helped me easily diagnose what was wrong with my stove. My contractor friend told me how to fix correctly. Stove now works for $25 in parts! Thanks!!!
What end up being a problem if you don't mind me asking my oven doesn't work
Very nice, straightforward and to the point ! Clear standard english and expected readings !
I have watched many of Bill’s videos and don’t think I have ever questioned any of them.
That being said, I would like to point out some stoves have thermal cutoffs to kill the oven if it gets too hot. Imo, the temp probe can be the cause of this.
Also, the relays and other parts on the board can be replaced if one has the knowledge to test and replace them along with other board parts, resistors, capacitors, etc,.
I have always appreciated Bill’s videos, just thought I would point this out.
He said the control board can be service but he said not at his skill level. For the thermal cut off’s that is true from your experience can you tell the people where they are normally located at? I think that would be more helpful than trying to just point out to Bill where he messed up
@@TalkinTuesdays By no means did I intend to demean Bill. This above my skill level too. I was just pointing that boards can many times be repaired.
His videos were some of the main ones I would watch when I started dealing with appliances.
I have thought about getting into board repair, but will be 68 next month and not sure I will with so much going on here now with other things I need to take of.
I do wish I had gotten into it earlier. I would love to be able to repair $200 boards with a $4 part.
Repairing boards in these newer pieces of junk could be very profitable.
Just now seeing this, or I would already have responded.
You video saved me money talking about the bake element was my problem thanks
Bill thanks . You really make the difference forever.
Finally, I found the information I was looking for. Very good video Mr. Bill Newberry. Thanks a lot.
2024 and still helping. Bill you was a great guy!
If the probe goes bad, will that cause a door lock/no display lights/but stove tops still working?
We did a self clean that did this, and from other videos they cite the 'thermostat fuse' as the likely suspect.
Its an older ge electric jbp76gs3ww oven.
In taking off the back, and raising the top - I see nothing that resembles a 'fuse'.
Behind the main knob is a couple circuit boards, a smaller brown one with components attached to a larger green circuit board - but nothing that looks like a fuse.
I saw another video of a newer model where the thermostat fuse was circular, which looks like the oven light socket - which hasn't worked in years - but unless a fuse is built into the socket, I can find any fuse.
Is this what I'm looking for, if this probe/sensor goes bad - will that allow the stove tops to work, but lock the door and kill the display control board lights.
The control board has what looks like a mini transformer on it, 2 white wide bands, and then do have some brown discoloration - but its slight and not all encompassing.
Thanks for your time, and any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Great trouble shooting video. However, I wish you'd gone into greater detail about the control board. Are there ways to test/further test the board using a multimeter? How is a specific board identified; model, type? and how does one (being an average Joe without company parts supplier connection) best go about getting a replacement board, or, any other appliance parts, for that matter? Thx for taking the time to make and post the video. Very helpful..
Bill in your experience those relays on the control board. Do they sometimes spark a small blue spark when they open? Meaning when you turn the oven off? I have an issue where the element has been staying on even after turning the oven off. I can pop the relay contact open and the element turns off and works properly for a while but then it would stick itself back together within a few days. I just replaced the control board and things seem to be operating normal but there is still that slight blue spark when shutting off. I hope it doesn’t start sticking again as well.
Great explanation. Exactly how my 2012 Frigidaire tested. Unfortunately my control board isn’t available anymore. What confuses me is I get 120v on each side of my baking element but not 240 across the element when bake is on.
This was an excellent video. Thank you very much! I've watched several video's about this. This was by far, the best one.
Thanks a lot. My oven problem is now and then. No broken element or sigh of damage.
Hey Bill. I have a Maytag Model MER8800Z?0
The bake element more or less burned up while my wife was cooking. No it wasn’t the bad foods fault. Anyway, I changed the element which was broken in three places. Nothing in the back looks burned ( board, wiring block etc). I ordered a new thermal fuse. Could this be the problem? All the burners work. But neither the new baking element or the broiler element work. I’m trying not to have to call a service guy here in PoDunk USA 🇺🇸
Thoughts. Thanks for the informative video.
Great job of explaining... Helps a lot for beginners.
Thank you Bill !!! You just saved me $1300 that I don't have to spend today!
Thanks for this from a novice. . Your method of checking the bake element from the back instead of removing it to check just saved me a ton of work. Just wondering if there was a fuse to be checked. I have a Kenmore oven with broiler working , but not baking. Subscribed.
excellent video, Any advise on if the top & bottom oven stopped working and all tests done in this video come back good? Frididaire convection oven stopped heating on both bottom & top oven within hours of it working properly for lasagna
Thanks for making it. Mine is LG 3193ST electric oven and range. Its stuck on preheating and not going to bake temperature. Everything seems fine.
Enjoyed the lesson! What would make one burn at the spade contact of the Infinite switch on a oven with the knob? Don't wanna just fix the part I'd like to fix the why also so it doesn't happen again hopefully. Thanks again from all of us who are a little electrically challenged!
All contacts should be tightened properly. If you have a loose contact, an electrical current will heat-up that connection due to high resistance, and burn it. If the infinite switch is located on top of the glass-top, the water spill may also short and burn the switch.
Help! We had an element replaced twice in a 45 yr old kenmore oven, this last replacement (about a year old) caught on fire. Now our warranty company wants to just replace it for a third time, and I’m terrified it will just catch on fire again! Are there some very old ovens where it’s just not possible to replace the element? Why does it keep failing, and in this case, catching on fire!? Any information would be greatly appreciated
Your my hero citizen today! 🙏
If the bake doesn't go on but the broiler does can you assume the temperature probe is good?
Bill, I have a Frigidaire stove Gallery Series model CGLES385FS4. Doesn't work cannot use the oven. I did everything you mentinned in the video. Test the elements OK now it was not broken but crooked I changed it, test the thermostat ok (inside the oven), Test electricity source Ok. So I have changed the controle board and still the oven doesn't work. Frankly I don't have a clue what can I do next. Can you help anny idea?
My oven over heats real bad. And then turns off by itself. I don't have your tools to see exactly what the matter is. Is it the control board or something else?
Thank you so much for this. I diagnosed a completely different model of stove in a few minutes and found the problem.
I have a lg and I got current to back of the range but nothing lights up on the top board to turn burners on or the clock. I had some sparks near the front large burner.
Hi my leisure electric double oven just stopped working, elements at the top all work but both ovens and lights went out and they not heating, I'm ruling out elements as both gave gone and lights, assuming it's electric problem to the bottom half, any suggestions please. Ty
My oven heat Element went out on the bottom. We replaced it 3 months ago and it went out again last night. The oven was here when we moved it. It looks to be 17 years old. What would cause it to happen again? Is it just to old. Trying to figure out if it’s worth doing again or just getting a new oven.
good video, one of the best I have seen.
Thx. I'm checking an oven tomorrow, oven not working. Thanks for the video
My bake element resistance is down around 16-17. Upper element is 23-24 and a spare unused element I have here from a different oven is also 23-24. Is the lower element bad? It shows little signs of high heat and our problem is poor, slow and inconsistant heating of the oven. Most of the heating seems to be coming from the upper element.
This is an LG convection oven from 2012 has been a recurring problem for several years now. It goes through phases of being tolerable to times like now where it takes all day to cook a small turkey. Up until this round of troubleshooting I have been undecided as to what the problem might be.
Do element fail in this manner (too little resistance)?
My bottom oven element welded itself out of existence. I went and purchased a new element and installed it as I have done many times with many stoves.
I put it back together and now there is no power to either the broil or bake element. I bypassed the fuse block to no avail. I am assuming it has something to do with what initially happened but I am out of ideas. Do you have any thoughts?
The stove top burners work and the oven light works.
Thanks for this video. Clear and concise.
Hey Bill thanks, that was an EXCELLENT intro to troubleshooting an oven. Thank you so much!!
Great video, Thank you. my heating element is reading only 14 ohms Is this bad?
Thanks for the video. What do you do when checking for 240 volts at the stove you get 120 red and white and black and white, but nothing at red and black checking for 240? I checked the breaker(s) and it is fine.
I have a glass top maytag digital oven and my element made a loud frying sound so element went out so my husband replaced the element and the oven still wont work the digital part is on and eyes all work but nothing in oven works what could be wrong worked fine til element went out
if broil coilworks and Bake does not, what do you suggest?
Thanks for making this video!
What setting did you set on your volt meter?
Could it be the thermal fuse as well?
Had a question if your red to white has voltage and red to black does too but your black to white doesn’t what does that mean(new stove clock,lights and oven not working)
So what is wrong with the oven when the only the top burner turns on and not the bottom
Did you ever find out? Bottom doesn't work but some top eyes do and some dont cut off
Thanks for the great how-to video. Of considerable help was the resistance values you gave, exactly what I was looking for. All of my parts tested out just fine however, so I put the thing back together and said what the heck, just one more try. Praise be to Him, oven worked just fine. I'm guessing dirty connector or something.
+michael wurmser That's always good when it fixes itself!
Hello I have had this trouble with my stove and it's all electric for a while. Out of nowhere my stove started beeping and flashing bad line and this is a consistent beep. I ended up having to unplug the stove. Now my stove is 220 volts what I did was I moved it from where it's plugged in and I plugged it into the AC 220 volt outlet and it works fine it doesn't beep and say bad line does that mean that there's a problem with my wires inside the wall? I've already got a new breaker and I've already got a new outlet 2 20 volt outlet it's still flashing bad line when I plug it into the one it's always been plugged into.......help!!! Lol
I believe my lower burner is burnt out. Can I simply remove it from the stove and test it table top? The broiler works. After a while, the temp gauge for bake switches on and off around 250 degrees, so I'm assuming the thermostat is functing properly. Is it wrong to test it like this?
You stopped too soon on your repair. Where can I find a video that shows how to repair the control board for a ykerc507hw4 kitchenaid stove? I mean change out the relays or resistors or transitors. My control board costs $357.00 and its also obsolete. Land fills are filling up with stoves that have obsolete control boards?
Bill I have a Whirlpool accu bake Whirlpool Range i had a surge while selfcleaning and Trouble shooting shown possible thermo fuse problem . Burners all work but no power to control board ., After I replaced the theromfuse . Still no power to oven and control board . So I bought a control board. Just installed and STILL NO POWER ON BOARD or oven . Burners work >
If you already replaced the control board and the thermo-fuse, there may be another fuse in the circuit. To find it you need to look at the schematics for your unit. What is the model number of the range, I'll try to look it up. PS, most of the problems with ranges occur after the self-cleaning is done, so while it's convenient, try not to use it in the future.
Just bought new stove range burners work but no power to oven or electronic controls to program stove, on my 3 prong outlet my meter shows 247v across, 117v from neutral to hot on one side and 127v from neutral to hot on the other side still no power to oven.please help.
Very helpful video, thank you. Helped me pin point that both oven relays on the circuit board were fried.
Double oven motorized door lock
One thing that would be nice is explain what to set the multi meter on for what ever your checking do I put it on DC or ac do i put it on 250 ,150 or what i dont understand your video
Greetings and great post. What does it mean if my oven wont turn on and certain eyes wont cut off. What to do???
My thermometer gave me around 730 ohms. Ordered a new one and the new one read the same. Replaced it anyway and the stove still doesn’t work. Everything else checks out. Bad thermostat or should I try replacing the circuit board. Already $50 deep. Replaced a burnt out element and thermostat.
HEY !!BILL,,getting shocks from,,LANG commercial electric sove,,which is just like a residential one,,found one of the eyes has 12 volts from eye to body of stove when turned on,,,defective eye???? other ones read o voltage,,no answers for this on youtube
How about the thermal fuse? Didn't mention that and it is the most likely culprit.
This is so incredibly helpful. Thank you!
What if the elements are at 15 ohms, are they still good?
My control board is not working and the oven does not either. What do I do?
Exactly what I needed to fix our oven this morning. Thanks for posting.
Hey bill I have lg electric stove none of burner work what u think it is the board
Hey Bill. Great video! ... My oven's bake element is not heating. Element resistance checked ok. Temperature sensor checked ok. I checked conductivity for the wires connecting the element. No visible damage on the relay or the board where the relay is attached. All other elements are working properly including the broil element. What other test can I do before replacing the control board? P.S. I have an oven from the same family with the one from the video. Thank you!
Doesn't make sense if the temperature sensor is broken the broil and bake won't turn on?
I tested everything but that.
so my broiler (top element) works but not my baker element? what could it be ? everything else checked out. proper oms i mean... i'm stuck! please help!
Hi bill
How to disconnect the oven
And stove would still work
I just want to disconnect the oven permanently due to renter issues, they do not clean after use
It can cause fire if full of grease
Thank you
Just pull the wires leading onto the element and tape them up!!
Thank you bill. Excellent video. Should have watched this before i ordered an oven element. It was only a connector to the Kenmore element. But better safe than sorry. But a thourough video anyways!!!
Now you need to be like A1 auto and sell some cheap repair parts to go with your excellent video's! !!
Wait why are so many mechanics say if the terminal block is broken you will not get power to the unit?? I have a Frigidaire wall oven and it has no power i am wondering if this is the problem the terminal block??
Hi. I have a brand new KitchenAid oven and everytime i plug it in it blow the suppressor!! I checked the oven connection and it seems fine. Could a faulty electrical connection from the fusebox to the plug cause this?
Thanks for the video. I checked the temperature probe and you said it should be around 1080 ohms, but mine was only reaching 780 or so. Does this mean it is dead or dying? My oven stopped working but the top burners still worked. I followed your video and everything before the probe was good.
The resistance of a temperature probe (RTD) increases as the temperature inside the oven increases. So the resistance of only 780 is way too low as if the temperature inside the oven is below freezing. If you replace the temperature probe, but the oven still doesn't work, I think the high limit fuse is blown. The temperature probe was probably showing a low temperature while it was too high, so the oven overheated and blew the fuse.
YourSelf where is the fuse. I’m having thae same issue. Around 730 on the temp gauge.
Seen videos that says you can hook up 2 different 120 volts cords to make the 240 volts is it true? And can a stove run on 220 volt?
yes a stove "can" run on 220v usually power is in an acceptable 'range" and anywhere from 228 252 v in the US you'd need to know a bit more about what your incoming power is SUPPOSED to be because I think 208 is a standard range too.
but you can't power a stove off 2 120 legs unless you are using different circuits from the box, in which case, really you are just using normal 240v power. IF you survive such a project the insurance company will laugh at you though.
So it is possible to hook up 1 extension cord and another one to a different circuit to make the 240 v to run the stove elements
K read the "read me" more part lol so forget the other question. The reason I aske was when you check the 220 v connection on the oven it shows the left and middle 120 v and the right and middle 120 v and left and right 220 v
it can be done but not code
you ll need 2 single 40a breakers
don t put both on the same side of your panel, opposite sides, so they balance
and you'll still need gage 8 wire to run that much current
all this will cost you more than if you did it right
On the terminal block when I measure outside to outside the reading is 1. What does this mean?
Thanks this verry helpfull and in plain words.
Thank you for this video. Awesome with the explanations also great steps with the testing of the element. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾. Maybe you can help me with my stove. I have a Frigidaire gas stove top with an electric baking. I tested the the outlet, power cord and both are getting good reading. I also replaced the computer board. The issue the electricity is being cut off somewhere. The oven light doesn’t comes on when I open the oven door and the computer board doesn’t light up. The burners igniters are working because there electricity getting to them. I tested the light bulb and it works. You have any idea what it may be cause the electricity not cycling through to the components? HEEEEELLP!!!!
I’m having the same problem did you ever figure this out?
Hello Bob Marley. No luck
i have a tappan electric stove and oven wont turn on it just clicks heating element is good and power is good what could be other issue ? appreciate it
Is it likely that the clock and whatnot would run, even if the outlet is partially not working?
I have a Whirlpool GR448LXPB2 oven that takes forever to heat up. I can set it for 400 degrees and in an hour or so it might reach 350. Have checked all the voltages and they seem ok. Any ideas? :-) Thanks in advance.
Well how did you fix this?
I would ohm the temp control. Am a little surprised Bill did not mention the thermal fuse. Not that the thermal fuse would cause it to take longer to heat. It would shut the oven off completely.
I have recalibrated an older stove. Don't think the newer ones have a calibration screw.
I would definitely check the temp control AND maybe the door seal.
Rickey Keeton Thank you so much for this information. I have checked the door seal and a number of other areas but this problem happened all at once and not over time. Can you tell me what I should expect when checking the resistance (ohms) of the temp control? I also would wonder what the resistance should be for the heating element. I know the voltage to the element is 240 but what abort the ohms of this element? Thank you in advance
@@stedhomer Temp control around 1.8k ohms.
Element Bill shows to be around 23 ohms. I usually consider them good if the meter shows 0.00 ohms. I could be wrong on that. That may be a malfunction on my meter, but I usually just try make sure there is continuity and no short in the element. To check for short in the element place one lead of meter on the inner part of element, the other on the outter. Should show OL.
If the temp control checks good, and it has an electronic board, I susoect a relay or something on the board is bad.
Check the elements to see if they read like he says.
I find it a little odd if BOTH iven elements take a long time to reach set temp.
Great video! Love the step to step guide. You made it easy to understand. I do have one question. Im thinking of buying a multimeter so i can learn the trade (troubleshoot appliances). Do you have any recommendations for a beginner like me.
what if the top oven broil element work but the bottom bake element (in the oven) don't work, and it's not broken(the bottom bake element) and has a clear current.
Wow. Mr Bill . Power does not go to control and than to element. One fase goes to control and the other to both elements. .
Thank you awesome video straight to the point. Now do to Covid shortage on new appliances & you're learning us all something very valuable.
Hey, I was wondering. how do you unlock your stove appliance.
Very straight forward thank you
Hey, I've having some trouble finding the problem in our oven.
-oven won't heat above 100°c
-all three heating elements read ±30 Ω and have continuity
-i can find 3 thermal fuses, all have continuity
-thermometer has been replaced but still reads 235000 Ω
What should I try next?
What did you find out? My oven only goes to 350
Nice video, but if you can do that - don't sell yourself short you can replace those power relays on control board.
I'm at basically the same point as Numino below was four months ago. Checked everything on my two year old oven same results. Elements cycling glowing when on, oven temp sensor reading per chart at room temp and when oven controller reads 350 F. Guess I will try replacing the temp sensor anyway since replacing the controller just is my last option.
Thanks dude for making this vid to help others.Much appreciated😆
great video, nice and clear instructions
My temp probe reads 1555 ohms! Is that bad?
Awesome Video, very clear and helpful step by step diagnosis!
+Dany Kattar Thanks!
My burners work but when I turn the oven on to bake it shuts off like seconds after and says power interruption and even when not using the oven or burners i hear a click and it’s the oven shutting off anthem back on saying the same thing....what would be the problem?
I love a video that actually explains it well....Thanks
Question if my element is messed up will it mess up my stove top?
he is not alive anymore, so no answering you
Bill my oven comes to bake and after a few minutes it kicks the braker. it has a new bake element in it.