I watched Eric's Seminar at PRi. And was glad you were there. Yes I agree with Charlie. I watched you and listened. You did an awesome job. And sometimes finding myself thinking he'll yes. Thanks for the comments on Charlie's channel. He's a great guy like you.
So much knowledge and honesty in your videos. I remember watching some old Darin Morgan videos and interviews from way back and he said similar things. You want as much flow as possible with the smallest port and valve that doesn't cost horsepower. My buddy Greg Burkhart spent some time in the Cup world in the 2000's and he said a lot of the things you do.
Love how passionate you are about what you do. It may make some people think its arrogance but its not at all. Keep making videos and I will keep watching.
Ive watched this 5 times now. This is the most straight to the point explanation ive ever heard. Five gallon buckets and straws, a 5 year old could pick up on that. Thank you brian and merry Christmas. Keep shining light on the facts.
hi Brian! I hope you are doing well...I believe we use angles in the intake seat because the fuel hit in the sharp angle and reatomized, I think if you put a radius in the intake seat deatomized the fuel and then you have raw fuel in the chamber, for that reason the radius works well in the exhaust but not in the intake! I like your videos! thanks for share! regards from Buenos Aires, Argentina. Merry Christmas!!
I love watching this. You and Daniel Powell are the only channels I watch. I like his explanations on the importance of the bottom end machine work. I come here to learn about the top end importance.
Lots of great information. You finally answered a question that I've asked on multiple YT channels. Why the larger I/E duration split on a LS vs. a SBC. Your answer is right on point and way better than the others that I got, such as...that's just the way you do it. Please keep sharing your knowledge. As a side note, this vid backed up some questions I had on my 3/4T truck build. It has the 6.0 with the LS3 heads. I've always said it has WAY too much valve. ProMaxx makes a small bore LS3 head. Smaller chamber for compression, smaller runner for velocity, and smaller valve more appropriate for the bore. That, and the smaller Truck Titan1 cam from CamMotion, and I should have all the torque I am looking for. Please continue to share your wealth of knowledge.
Great video! This is the content I'm looking for. Very useful for designing and building engines! I really enjoy engine mathematics, using it to design and pick parts, and seeing if it works after assembly. It isn't discussed enough for the average guy building a motor in the basement.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, Brian. Thank you thank you thank you for pouring your heart out. I cant stop soaking up your knowledge. Please write a book on all this information and put me down on a set.
Brian, I'm only at 15:37, but I love what I'm hearing so far. I don't know if the rest of the video is gonna love me though. I guess it 18 or so years ago that I moved away from the played out 2.02"/1.60" valve combination. I ran a 2.100" 7mm stem intake and a 1.500" 8mm stem exhaust on a 4.060" bore sbf. I had a lot of time on my hands. I think I bumped my head one afternoon and forgot I was turning a 1.625 to a 1.600 and missed my mark big time. I'd already installed new seats and they were still needing to be sized so I finished the exhaust valves to 1.500. Life took over and the heads waited about 2 years before I restarted with the stupid idea of turning down an 11/32 valve to 5/16"......long story short I have the heads in one of my storage units. I've been wanting to spark that back up...... Oh and I've been trying to run 1.500 to 1.550 and 2.150 valves on the 440ci Windsors I've built since then. When I saw the 821 and 823s were running a similar method I've been interested as fuck to why.......and I knew I was headed in the right direction. I hope your information favors my thoughts. 🤞
Wow, that is a lot of excellent information in one video! Thank-you for sharing so much and especially for explaining your reasons why you do things the way you do. Merry Christmas!
Thanks Brian, ive learned a lot from your vids. Using common sense has won us a LOT of races, Im this gals husband and as sone as she gets up ...Im subscribing, this may be the only one, but Daniel Powell may be next...Just love that heavy southern accent, lol
You're a good man, brother Salter. And after that, I greatly appreciate and enjoy all of your very informative videos. 🧐👍 You're also a great American 🇺🇸 God bless you and Merry Christmas to you and all of yours 🌲
Salter....I missed the first minute while I was chasing my kids out of the house. I thought to myself, "Huh.....a stuffed dog. That ought to get some comments. " Almost 5 minutes passed and I saw the dog move for the first time. Spit my beer out.....😂😂😂😂
Man, another great video Brian! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. It always gives me something to chew on and think about. My wife loved your little granddogie in the video. Anything you said was drowned out by the dog for her. 😂. Wishing you guys a Merry Christmas!
I'm really glad my engines let me change the LSA as needed... sometimes I tell the engine to tighten the vacuum signal on off throttle to make more response when the driver hits the gas. The other thing that I do is get the engine to come in softer for a moment to lightly load the drivetrain to keep traction in the car or keep from breaking gears.
Because I primarily work on 4 valve heads Ive had to shrink exhaust valves or go higher seat angles to reduce reversion and increase cooling of the exhaust valve
You information is spot on. And if you are off some i would bet if I built an engine close to following what you are saying I would be more than good with it.
solid info right there. when someone gets beat by a low dollar build engine [iron head ,cast rotating assembly] they should learn the lesson that its not always just money that wins.
Thank you Brian. Great information brother!!! I watched a guy pull a set of over ported heads off and drop on a regular set of heads on and he made WAY more torque on the bottom end. He had no velocity in those over ported heads.
Brian, I could really talk to you about airspeed… you’re the only one I have ever heard talk about it. I have very cool story about two sheet metal intakes that I built about 16 years ago and it works on about all intakes I build for super stock drag racing. Thanks
Another great video! I have 2 builds going on right now. A 406 sbc(4.155x3.75) and a 412 Pontiac which is 350 block based(3.93x4.25) Compression(11.5), cam specs(256/254@.050 .700ish lift 110lsa), and heads are going to be very similar. (sbc 2.08x1.60 332@.700 310fps. Pontiac 2.08x1.57 337@.700 295fps) Both will be dynoed on Pump gas and alky(bracket motors) Just dynoed the 406 Friday and I think the Pontiac is gonna have its hands full. Oddly enough PipeMax shows the long stroke down on RPM and power pretty much everywhere? I figured when I started out it would make more torque and less hp. Find out once it geta finished and dynoed this winter. 🙂
Evening out the velocity across the short turn helps support more flow from the port. For street cars and cars with a lot of on off throttle might benefit with a bit of rough burr work just under the valve job and in the back of the bowl to help the fuel get back in the air stream.
@@bigboreracing356 I see you do not understand what I'm talking about and why I said it. Few people think about where the fuel is going and what it is doing.
Very good sir! You do have to explain everything to the 10th degree 😂😂😂😂, because most people can’t follow! That’s probably why they should leave it to the engine builders who win 🤷🤷🤷🤷! I’ve brought the heavy reversion up to someone we both know, & was told it’s not an issue 😂😂😂😂! It also seems it’s with almost all the heads that were shown have some pretty big issues with reversion 🤷🤷🤷🤷! I hope everything is ok with you, because dogs that won’t leave their owners sides, sometimes know when their is something wrong with you 😳😳😳😳! Good luck on that Pontiac, I know you don’t need it, but I hope the owner knows what expenses he’s going to have with 50+ year old factory heads 🙄🙄🙄🙄! They don’t get the hours upon hours you have to put into them 🤷🤷🤷🤷! Merry Christmas to you and your family Bud!
Merry Christmas Brian hope you and yours are doing well. You mentioned Pontiac. I will be doing the same with a 400 but I would like it to still be a little rev happy so I'm going with a 4" instead of the 4.25". I would like to get a lightened forged 3.75" stock stroke but not available. I can get a forged but its not lightened. The 4" will be a kit with all balanced eagle rods and hypereutectic free floating pistons. It will have ported iron #13 heads with swirl polished one piece valves with 11/32" valve guide inserts. Not sure which cam I should use maybe a competition cams BP2016SP. That cam made 390HP on a bone stock 455 on the engine Dyno at Nick's garage with a quadrajet and ram air three exhaust and as cast factory heads. I have a quadrajet and ram air three exhaust. My engine will basically become a 428 and #13 heads are one of the best iron heads it will have 11:1 compression on a 428. I think I should drill the heads for 1.65 roller rocker arms. I'm not trying to outrun these new Chrysler challengers or Mustangs but I know it gets expensive the more it makes power. Well what's your opinion. I also looked at SUM-2801 or SUM-2802 cam. I'm still watching as many cylinder head porting videos as possible. I haven't picked up my grinder yet. My goal is to make a pair of #13 heads operate an engine the best it can. The head operates the engine. Everything connects to the head. I know I should use long tube headers but I don't like headers on a 1976 firebird it sits too low also my hood clearance wont allow a good Performer RPM intake manifold so my HP will be limited to cast iron intake and reproduction ram air three exhaust. It might make 370 hp if I'm lucky which is way more than it has now. The LT1 350 SBC made 370hp and it was a great little engine. 370hp is nothing to scoff at. I don't think it would be worth putting aluminum heads that flow better because I will still have manifold restrictions
Hey, Are you sure that you were at PRI? I was there on Friday and looked all day for you😁😁Thought maybe you were still driving between airports in NC. Anyway, I REALLY like this explanation of your formulas (or is it formuli?) for valve sizes and the ratios relative to bore and stroke. Having been around this stuff for 60+ years, I have a good idea of what generally is needed to make power. However, you correctly point out that race engines are more specialized than most people realize. Most guys don't (or can't) spend the money to have REAL RACE Engines. I know, I'm one of them. I would like to hear more about how you deal with port to port variations especially those in BBCs.
I'm learning so much. Thank you. However, Carrie is killing your tough guy image. We all now know that you are a kind, loving sweet hardcore race engine builder. Lolol
Nice video 👍 Alot of whats being said here is in line with things Darin Morgan says. Theres a few videos on youtube with him. Also Dragboss garage channel will set up a library of tech videos from Darin. For members theyll even offer you to be able to ask questions to Darin. Its really an interesting time for learning advanced race tech.
The problem with people like Darin Morgan is they spend time yapping about how smart they are instead of teaching you anything useful. You want to learn how to port heads professionally, have your set of heads ported by a professional engine builder. Lets say you have a set of 049 big block Chevy heads. You can send them to Vortec Pro and pay him to work them over. It is not cheap but is cheaper than wasting money on a flow bench. You will recieve a set of factory iron heads that will make a 468 push a 3800 pound car into the 9s on pump gas. Now you can copy the ports onto a set of stock heads any time you like and gain real world head porting experience without having to watch hours of videos that do nothing to help you. Another trick is buy a set of your favorite cnc ported USA aluminum heads and copy the ports on your buddies Chinese knock offs. After you have ported several sets of heads using the good heads as templates you will wonder why you bothered watching hours of how to videos.
Hi Brian, I have learned more from your videos than 40 years in the busuness, Does your valve vs piston formula work with 4 valve engines? Oviously cut in half? Have Merry Christmas and keep the videos coming
Brian...thank you very much for the great information you shared!!! This helped me a lot to understand things better!!! I do have a question about gen 6 6.2 lt1 heads being worked ..that engine is of course DI ......timing of intake valve need to open or close longer or shorter and how does DI differ ?? Or does it?
I've been told put the biggest valve in a 23 deg. Small block Chevy as long it is .020 or more from the bore. I don't know if I believe that especially on a street drag car?
talk about shrouded… minimum side clearance is .100 .150 is better .200 is phenomenal and ideal might have to move the exhaust valve over (choose a head with better valve centerlines)
@@guillermodavila9397 so all you do with the four valve is used valve area as a formula You would just add the two valve areas together then go about it that way
A safe throat size would be around 86 to 88% of the valve size, this gives you more "room" to turn the air/fuel flow around the valve into the chamber.
@SalterRacingEngines Thanks. Long term planning. I will also need a custom ground cam with hydraulic lifters and rocker arms that you reccomend and as far as the push rods of course we will have to measure. Good thing I have a friend that owns a machine shop that is a race engine builder. I'm from Payne Ohio.
Thanks for all the information! What ratio from valve head diameter to seat throat diameter (smallest diameter of the throat) would you suggest for intake and exhaust for max torque output? Would that be less than the mentioned 90%? I have a port/throat that I can not enlarge, but I could put a bigger valve in, that would enlarge the valve curtain area, but also bring the valve head to throat ratio to about 86% from 90% as it is by now...
Depending on the reason for the engine I do that as well sometimes I would just put a bigger valve in to get the ratio correct Remember what I'm doing here is giving you a very very good starting point
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you the answer and all your videos in generell, they are very helpfull! After comparing the valve sizes and the percentages for intake to bore and exhaust to intake I feel confident in putting in the bigger valve...
Do you still believe in 2.2hp per CFM? I have two pairs of Cleveland heads. One is the iron 4V heads with 2.19/1.72 valves. The other set is a set of CHI heads. The Chi heads have a much smaller port and 2.07/1.65 valves. The smaller port and smaller valves flow way more air (50cfm +) everywhere above .400. If I use the 2.2hp per CFM rule the smaller (higher flowing) heads will easily meet my HP goal. Note this is not a max effort race motor.
@@SalterRacingEngines and after watching this video, I feel my heads already have the proper CSA for the small 2.07 valve (Phil Martin formerly of Yates massaged them a little). Great info. I’m getting 340CFM out of a maybe 216cc head. More than enough for what I am trying to do.
@@SalterRacingEngines that is what Phil (the porter) said. The 297 at .400 was better than the max flow on the giant Iron ports with 2.19 valves. But I think if I need more at some point I have to go to a bigger valve.
Hi Brian. I am not trying to argue because you know way more than me but I'm trying to understand. You said that you need a venturi shape just under the valve ( throat area ) and you said that you need to start your 90% size before the ssr. What I'm trying to understand is in order to have a venturi shape doesn't it need to be larger both before and after the throat? Isn't that what a venture shape is, large, small and then large again? So wouldn't the bowl area have to be larger than 90%? Again I'm trying to learn so please set me straight. Thank you. Andrew
Andrew that is a great question and I completely understand why you would think that But the answer is no it does not need to be bigger If you cut your valve job correctly that is your Venturi right there So using five angles the valve contact seat point is your 100% and then it tapers inward towards the runners at 90% You can also do it the way you're saying but I don't use 90% for that I would use around 88 to 89% I hope that answers your question
I run NHRA Super Stock and therefore must use the factory valve sizes which are 2.025" intake and either 1.625” or 1.685” exhaust valve. I have the 1.685” exhaust valve but using your formula (I can’t run an intake big enough per your formula 2.243” bore x .525 = 2.22”), 2.025” Intake x .76 = 1.59” exhaust. Based on that, should I assume using the smaller 1.625” allowable exhaust valve would benefit? Presently there is about an 85% Intake to Exhaust flow and a 10° spread on the roller cam. If I went to a smaller exhaust valve, would that spread change appreciably?
Perfect example..... Old nascrap 358 stroke would vary from 3.5" to 3.18 stroke DEPENDING on restrictor plate or no restrictor plate. Restrictor plate wanted BIG BORE SMALL STROKE. Here is how smokey yunick explained it to me....... Take a drinking straws of different lengths but same diameter and draw thru them. The straw allows an INITIAL volume of air that decreases the longer you draw on it.... the longer draw time correlates to a longer stroke. When the intake (restrictor plate) becomes the barrier you want to pull on it for a shorter time (shorter stroke). Just a simplified explanation
I watched Eric's Seminar at PRi. And was glad you were there. Yes I agree with Charlie. I watched you and listened. You did an awesome job. And sometimes finding myself thinking he'll yes. Thanks for the comments on Charlie's channel. He's a great guy like you.
Pay attention folks, it's not every day that someone explains how this works. Salter is the real deal let me tell you.
One of the highlights of my week. A new video from Brian helping me go faster. Thank you
Thank you Brian. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year.
So much knowledge and honesty in your videos. I remember watching some old Darin Morgan videos and interviews from way back and he said similar things. You want as much flow as possible with the smallest port and valve that doesn't cost horsepower. My buddy Greg Burkhart spent some time in the Cup world in the 2000's and he said a lot of the things you do.
Love how passionate you are about what you do. It may make some people think its arrogance but its not at all. Keep making videos and I will keep watching.
Port velocity is critical. Thanks for all the info. your sharing here. Merry Christmas!
Excellent job laying all this out.............shows why you've been successful & the info is creditable & useful. Is why I've subscribed.............
Ive watched this 5 times now. This is the most straight to the point explanation ive ever heard. Five gallon buckets and straws, a 5 year old could pick up on that. Thank you brian and merry Christmas. Keep shining light on the facts.
hi Brian! I hope you are doing well...I believe we use angles in the intake seat because the fuel hit in the sharp angle and reatomized, I think if you put a radius in the intake seat deatomized the fuel and then you have raw fuel in the chamber, for that reason the radius works well in the exhaust but not in the intake! I like your videos! thanks for share! regards from Buenos Aires, Argentina. Merry Christmas!!
I absolutely love your teaching and the passion you carry throughout your videos. Thank you. Merry Christmas.
I love watching this. You and Daniel Powell are the only channels I watch. I like his explanations on the importance of the bottom end machine work. I come here to learn about the top end importance.
Wow. Free expertise from 30 years of racing. Thanks. Man
That was awesome, thanks.
Human's 2 greatest inventions : the wheel, and the domesticated dog.
Merry Christmas Brian.
Thanks for the video.
Have a great weekend. 👍🇺🇸👍
Lots of great information. You finally answered a question that I've asked on multiple YT channels. Why the larger I/E duration split on a LS vs. a SBC. Your answer is right on point and way better than the others that I got, such as...that's just the way you do it. Please keep sharing your knowledge.
As a side note, this vid backed up some questions I had on my 3/4T truck build. It has the 6.0 with the LS3 heads. I've always said it has WAY too much valve. ProMaxx makes a small bore LS3 head. Smaller chamber for compression, smaller runner for velocity, and smaller valve more appropriate for the bore. That, and the smaller Truck Titan1 cam from CamMotion, and I should have all the torque I am looking for.
Please continue to share your wealth of knowledge.
Cylinder head theory for horsepower and torque. 🏁🏁🎄 Well done... Precision of the build out weights the parts.
Great video! This is the content I'm looking for. Very useful for designing and building engines! I really enjoy engine mathematics, using it to design and pick parts, and seeing if it works after assembly. It isn't discussed enough for the average guy building a motor in the basement.
great information and explanation.
That is really cool explanation on port to valve nice that's very cool.
My brain is now fried. I am going to watch this a few more times . Thank you so much sincerely
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, Brian. Thank you thank you thank you for pouring your heart out. I cant stop soaking up your knowledge. Please write a book on all this information and put me down on a set.
The little dog was a wonderful addition to the video, definitely include her more in the future!
This was perfect Brian, Merry Christmas to you and the family.
Another great lesson! Thank you and Merry Christmas! 👍👍
Merry Christmas too Brian. Thanks for the extra guidance and tricks this year.
Thank you Mr Salter and Merry Christmass
Brian, I'm only at 15:37, but I love what I'm hearing so far. I don't know if the rest of the video is gonna love me though.
I guess it 18 or so years ago that I moved away from the played out 2.02"/1.60" valve combination. I ran a 2.100" 7mm stem intake and a 1.500" 8mm stem exhaust on a 4.060" bore sbf. I had a lot of time on my hands. I think I bumped my head one afternoon and forgot I was turning a 1.625 to a 1.600 and missed my mark big time. I'd already installed new seats and they were still needing to be sized so I finished the exhaust valves to 1.500. Life took over and the heads waited about 2 years before I restarted with the stupid idea of turning down an 11/32 valve to 5/16"......long story short I have the heads in one of my storage units. I've been wanting to spark that back up......
Oh and I've been trying to run 1.500 to 1.550 and 2.150 valves on the 440ci Windsors I've built since then. When I saw the 821 and 823s were running a similar method I've been interested as fuck to why.......and I knew I was headed in the right direction. I hope your information favors my thoughts. 🤞
@@arturozarate1752 it's fine just adjust your split
@SalterRacingEngines THANKS!
I agree, I've seen many parts that were to small by what others said, but worked very well because they were designed to work together.👍👍👍
Wow, that is a lot of excellent information in one video! Thank-you for sharing so much and especially for explaining your reasons why you do things the way you do. Merry Christmas!
Thanks for taking the time to teach.
Thanks Brian, ive learned a lot from your vids. Using common sense has won us a LOT of races, Im this gals husband and as sone as she gets up ...Im subscribing, this may be the only one, but Daniel Powell may be next...Just love that heavy southern accent, lol
You're a good man, brother Salter.
And after that, I greatly appreciate and enjoy all of your very informative videos. 🧐👍
You're also a great American 🇺🇸
God bless you and Merry Christmas to you and all of yours 🌲
Solid info that we used to have to research and actually read in order to learn about.
Merry Christmas
Man i love this channel . Merry Christmas Brain From Nova Scotia Canada
Salter....I missed the first minute while I was chasing my kids out of the house. I thought to myself, "Huh.....a stuffed dog. That ought to get some comments. "
Almost 5 minutes passed and I saw the dog move for the first time. Spit my beer out.....😂😂😂😂
Now that's funny, Salter with one of those stuffed dogs.
Merry Christmas Brian. Thank You for sharing your knowledge.
Man, another great video Brian! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. It always gives me something to chew on and think about. My wife loved your little granddogie in the video. Anything you said was drowned out by the dog for her. 😂. Wishing you guys a Merry Christmas!
Awesome information thank you for taking the time to explain everything so well. Appreciate you.
I'm really glad my engines let me change the LSA as needed... sometimes I tell the engine to tighten the vacuum signal on off throttle to make more response when the driver hits the gas. The other thing that I do is get the engine to come in softer for a moment to lightly load the drivetrain to keep traction in the car or keep from breaking gears.
High value content! 👍 Thank you. I watched the entire video
I call it a fat flow curve! Great stuff Brian!
Thanks Brian I enjoyed this video very much,good stuff.
Thanks again !
Brilliant technical info. Much explained is already well know by many, issue is people seem to forget it all when building a race engine.
Because I primarily work on 4 valve heads Ive had to shrink exhaust valves or go higher seat angles to reduce reversion and increase cooling of the exhaust valve
Crazy like a genius….❤
You information is spot on. And if you are off some i would bet if I built an engine close to following what you are saying I would be more than good with it.
solid info right there. when someone gets beat by a low dollar build engine [iron head ,cast rotating assembly] they should learn the lesson that its not always just money that wins.
Thank you Brian. Great information brother!!! I watched a guy pull a set of over ported heads off and drop on a regular set of heads on and he made WAY more torque on the bottom end. He had no velocity in those over ported heads.
Thanks for sharing your experience and 🙏for you.peace
Brian, I could really talk to you about airspeed… you’re the only one I have ever heard talk about it.
I have very cool story about two sheet metal intakes that I built about 16 years ago and it works on about all intakes I build for super stock drag racing. Thanks
@@Gmanifolds well let's talk soon after New Year's maybe
Thankyou so much for sharing your knowledge and experience .
Hi from a mechanic from Australia 👋 . Hope you have a beautiful Xmas
Outstanding Information
Another great video! I have 2 builds going on right now. A 406 sbc(4.155x3.75) and a 412 Pontiac which is 350 block based(3.93x4.25) Compression(11.5), cam specs(256/254@.050 .700ish lift 110lsa), and heads are going to be very similar. (sbc 2.08x1.60 332@.700 310fps. Pontiac 2.08x1.57 337@.700 295fps) Both will be dynoed on Pump gas and alky(bracket motors) Just dynoed the 406 Friday and I think the Pontiac is gonna have its hands full. Oddly enough PipeMax shows the long stroke down on RPM and power pretty much everywhere? I figured when I started out it would make more torque and less hp. Find out once it geta finished and dynoed this winter. 🙂
Yes I watched the 1 hrs. Seminar of Eric's. You did a good job. Just saying but people should listen to you more and understand!
Evening out the velocity across the short turn helps support more flow from the port. For street cars and cars with a lot of on off throttle might benefit with a bit of rough burr work just under the valve job and in the back of the bowl to help the fuel get back in the air stream.
Jon Kaase said rough port surface does not make more power over a smooth port.
@@bigboreracing356 I see you do not understand what I'm talking about and why I said it. Few people think about where the fuel is going and what it is doing.
@@caronmyles2014 You would not make that assumption about me if you were perceptive.
Some excellent information here. A boat engine is different to an 1/8 mile engine.
great stuff ,,,, again on to # 3
And remember , the filling of the cylinder sees the max lift only once but the mid lift flow twice. mid lift flow is much more important.
Merry Christmas and happy new year. Next year I think is going to be better.
Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for the video! It sure helps!
Very good sir! You do have to explain everything to the 10th degree 😂😂😂😂, because most people can’t follow! That’s probably why they should leave it to the engine builders who win 🤷🤷🤷🤷! I’ve brought the heavy reversion up to someone we both know, & was told it’s not an issue 😂😂😂😂! It also seems it’s with almost all the heads that were shown have some pretty big issues with reversion 🤷🤷🤷🤷! I hope everything is ok with you, because dogs that won’t leave their owners sides, sometimes know when their is something wrong with you 😳😳😳😳! Good luck on that Pontiac, I know you don’t need it, but I hope the owner knows what expenses he’s going to have with 50+ year old factory heads 🙄🙄🙄🙄! They don’t get the hours upon hours you have to put into them 🤷🤷🤷🤷! Merry Christmas to you and your family Bud!
Merry CHRISTmas
You know your getting old when you choose a sweater wearing Yorkie as your dog
@@shootermcgavin2819 lol yeah I guess so
Just Awesome.
Get a dog for the best hp!! Mans best friend
Lobe profile is important.
And the steady state pull on the dyno does not always represent what the engine will do on the track.
Delta P. Create differential pressure with exhaust scavenging. Flow is proportional to pressure.
Merry Christmas Brian hope you and yours are doing well. You mentioned Pontiac. I will be doing the same with a 400 but I would like it to still be a little rev happy so I'm going with a 4" instead of the 4.25". I would like to get a lightened forged 3.75" stock stroke but not available. I can get a forged but its not lightened. The 4" will be a kit with all balanced eagle rods and hypereutectic free floating pistons. It will have ported iron #13 heads with swirl polished one piece valves with 11/32" valve guide inserts. Not sure which cam I should use maybe a competition cams BP2016SP. That cam made 390HP on a bone stock 455 on the engine Dyno at Nick's garage with a quadrajet and ram air three exhaust and as cast factory heads. I have a quadrajet and ram air three exhaust. My engine will basically become a 428 and #13 heads are one of the best iron heads it will have 11:1 compression on a 428. I think I should drill the heads for 1.65 roller rocker arms. I'm not trying to outrun these new Chrysler challengers or Mustangs but I know it gets expensive the more it makes power. Well what's your opinion. I also looked at SUM-2801 or SUM-2802 cam. I'm still watching as many cylinder head porting videos as possible. I haven't picked up my grinder yet. My goal is to make a pair of #13 heads operate an engine the best it can. The head operates the engine. Everything connects to the head. I know I should use long tube headers but I don't like headers on a 1976 firebird it sits too low also my hood clearance wont allow a good Performer RPM intake manifold so my HP will be limited to cast iron intake and reproduction ram air three exhaust. It might make 370 hp if I'm lucky which is way more than it has now. The LT1 350 SBC made 370hp and it was a great little engine. 370hp is nothing to scoff at. I don't think it would be worth putting aluminum heads that flow better because I will still have manifold restrictions
Hey, Are you sure that you were at PRI? I was there on Friday and looked all day for you😁😁Thought maybe you were still driving between airports in NC.
Anyway, I REALLY like this explanation of your formulas (or is it formuli?) for valve sizes and the ratios relative to bore and stroke. Having been around this stuff for 60+ years, I have a good idea of what generally is needed to make power. However, you correctly point out that race engines are more specialized than most people realize. Most guys don't (or can't) spend the money to have REAL RACE Engines. I know, I'm one of them.
I would like to hear more about how you deal with port to port variations especially those in BBCs.
My Pontiac 389 had 4.21 stroke and Performer RPM heads. They were choked at 5k rpm.
Appreciate the videos
I'm learning so much. Thank you. However, Carrie is killing your tough guy image. We all now know that you are a kind, loving sweet hardcore race engine builder. Lolol
Nice video 👍
Alot of whats being said here is in line with things Darin Morgan says. Theres a few videos on youtube with him.
Also Dragboss garage channel will set up a library of tech videos from Darin. For members theyll even offer you to be able to ask questions to Darin.
Its really an interesting time for learning advanced race tech.
The problem with people like Darin Morgan is they spend time yapping about how smart they are instead of teaching you anything useful.
You want to learn how to port heads professionally, have your set of heads ported by a professional engine builder.
Lets say you have a set of 049 big block Chevy heads.
You can send them to Vortec Pro and pay him to work them over.
It is not cheap but is cheaper than wasting money on a flow bench.
You will recieve a set of factory iron heads that will make a 468 push a 3800 pound car into the 9s on pump gas.
Now you can copy the ports onto a set of stock heads any time you like and gain real world head porting experience without having to watch hours of videos that do nothing to help you.
Another trick is buy a set of your favorite cnc ported USA aluminum heads and copy the ports on your buddies Chinese knock offs.
After you have ported several sets of heads using the good heads as templates you will wonder why you bothered watching hours of how to videos.
Thanks you for the infor
👏👏👏👏👏
Awesome dog, good stuff.
Hi Brian, I have learned more from your videos than 40 years in the busuness, Does your valve vs piston formula work with 4 valve engines? Oviously cut in half? Have Merry Christmas and keep the videos coming
Yes just use the area formula instead of valve diameter to bore diameter just take your valves and convert it to area
You explain low and mid lift better than David Vizzard, Eric Gardener, and Steve Morris.
Brian...thank you very much for the great information you shared!!! This helped me a lot to understand things better!!! I do have a question about gen 6 6.2 lt1 heads being worked ..that engine is of course DI ......timing of intake valve need to open or close longer or shorter and how does DI differ ?? Or does it?
I've been told put the biggest valve in a 23 deg. Small block Chevy as long it is .020 or more from the bore. I don't know if I believe that especially on a street drag car?
talk about shrouded…
minimum side clearance is .100
.150 is better
.200 is phenomenal and ideal
might have to move the exhaust valve over (choose a head with better valve centerlines)
@duanebusch72 i agree.
Awesome formulas but how about for 4 valve heads ?
@@guillermodavila9397 so all you do with the four valve is used valve area as a formula
You would just add the two valve areas together then go about it that way
A safe throat size would be around 86 to 88% of the valve size, this gives you more "room" to turn the air/fuel flow around the valve into the chamber.
First? Thanks for the video!
Do you have a cylinder head program for that's say a 421 Small block Chevy 23 deg. Drag and drive car? Looking at 600+ HP N/A?. 69 CAMARO.
@@dondotterer24 yes
@SalterRacingEngines Thanks. Long term planning. I will also need a custom ground cam with hydraulic lifters and rocker arms that you reccomend and as far as the push rods of course we will have to measure. Good thing I have a friend that owns a machine shop that is a race engine builder. I'm from Payne Ohio.
Thanks for all the information!
What ratio from valve head diameter to seat throat diameter (smallest diameter of the throat) would you suggest for intake and exhaust for max torque output? Would that be less than the mentioned 90%?
I have a port/throat that I can not enlarge, but I could put a bigger valve in, that would enlarge the valve curtain area, but also bring the valve head to throat ratio to about 86% from 90% as it is by now...
Depending on the reason for the engine I do that as well sometimes I would just put a bigger valve in to get the ratio correct
Remember what I'm doing here is giving you a very very good starting point
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you the answer and all your videos in generell, they are very helpfull!
After comparing the valve sizes and the percentages for intake to bore and exhaust to intake I feel confident in putting in the bigger valve...
Lots to say about this one.
Good info , your dog thinks its boring and melted
Do you still believe in 2.2hp per CFM? I have two pairs of Cleveland heads. One is the iron 4V heads with 2.19/1.72 valves. The other set is a set of CHI heads. The Chi heads have a much smaller port and 2.07/1.65 valves. The smaller port and smaller valves flow way more air (50cfm +) everywhere above .400. If I use the 2.2hp per CFM rule the smaller (higher flowing) heads will easily meet my HP goal. Note this is not a max effort race motor.
For a well built engine that is a good ball park, for a good stock type engine 1.7hp/cfm is a good ballpark and so on.
@@Mpcoluv CHI
@@SalterRacingEngines and after watching this video, I feel my heads already have the proper CSA for the small 2.07 valve (Phil Martin formerly of Yates massaged them a little). Great info. I’m getting 340CFM out of a maybe 216cc head. More than enough for what I am trying to do.
@Mpcoluv that's excellent
@@SalterRacingEngines that is what Phil (the porter) said. The 297 at .400 was better than the max flow on the giant Iron ports with 2.19 valves. But I think if I need more at some point I have to go to a bigger valve.
Hi Brian. I am not trying to argue because you know way more than me but I'm trying to understand. You said that you need a venturi shape just under the valve ( throat area ) and you said that you need to start your 90% size before the ssr. What I'm trying to understand is in order to have a venturi shape doesn't it need to be larger both before and after the throat? Isn't that what a venture shape is, large, small and then large again? So wouldn't the bowl area have to be larger than 90%? Again I'm trying to learn so please set me straight. Thank you. Andrew
Andrew that is a great question and I completely understand why you would think that
But the answer is no it does not need to be bigger
If you cut your valve job correctly that is your Venturi right there
So using five angles the valve contact seat point is your 100% and then it tapers inward towards the runners at 90%
You can also do it the way you're saying but I don't use 90% for that I would use around 88 to 89%
I hope that answers your question
In all honesty , I feel your dog is smarter than half of the Internet pro engine builders.....Just saying.
I have heard several guys emphasize throat ratios in relation to valve size. Is there a basic port cross section area ratio to valve size?
Yes watch the end of the video the last 8 minutes
I run NHRA Super Stock and therefore must use the factory valve sizes which are 2.025" intake and either 1.625” or 1.685” exhaust valve. I have the 1.685” exhaust valve but using your formula (I can’t run an intake big enough per your formula 2.243” bore x .525 = 2.22”), 2.025” Intake x .76 = 1.59” exhaust. Based on that, should I assume using the smaller 1.625” allowable exhaust valve would benefit? Presently there is about an 85% Intake to Exhaust flow and a 10° spread on the roller cam. If I went to a smaller exhaust valve, would that spread change appreciably?
So, alot of head porters push for larger bowls... 95% example sometimes larger. What's your take?
Man I can't explain it no better than I did in the video
Depending on what I'm doing it's going to be around 88 to 92
@SalterRacingEngines i understood your position. Your take then is that they are sacrificing raw horsepower for numbers on a flow bench.
I think torque is great in street motors, horsepower wins races.
The more torque at whatever rpm means more horsepower at that rpm.
Brian, you obviously need 3 more dogs... It just so happens I'm giving away 3 dogs to anyone named Brian Salter
Port cross sectional area and valve curtain area.....just sayin.
Merry Christmas great video
Perfect example.....
Old nascrap 358 stroke would vary from 3.5" to 3.18 stroke DEPENDING on restrictor plate or no restrictor plate. Restrictor plate wanted BIG BORE SMALL STROKE.
Here is how smokey yunick explained it to me.......
Take a drinking straws of different lengths but same diameter and draw thru them. The straw allows an INITIAL volume of air that decreases the longer you draw on it.... the longer draw time correlates to a longer stroke. When the intake (restrictor plate) becomes the barrier you want to pull on it for a shorter time (shorter stroke).
Just a simplified explanation