"Stupid Strong" CNC Build - PART 1 - THE FRAME
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- How to build a DIY CNC machine completely from scratch. I designed the machine in Fusion 360 from the ground up and had a local water jet cut the parts.
The frame is built from 1/2" aluminum plate. Fully supported linear rails reduce the flex and NEMA 23 stepper motors drive the anti-backlash ball screws for the best possible performance on a budget. I used a TinyG motor controller in this project.
In this episode I put together the frame and Y axis linear rails so I can see if this machine is even going to work.
++Learn Fusion 360 For Hobbyists and Woodworkers++
$30 OFF COUPON
mikeandlauren.c...
Bill of materials for this machine (Affiliate Links):
Total Price - $1,255.47
Aluminum Frame Local Shop ($520):
1/2" Aluminum Plate
Stepper Motors ($66.00):
amzn.to/2i6lN8B
ebay.to/2Br5FX6
Motor Controller ($129):
synthetos.mysh...
Z Axis Linear Rails ($41.40):
amzn.to/2nlvbdU
ebay.to/2iv0PEy
X and Y Axis Linear Rails and Ball Screw Kit ($218.96):
amzn.to/2j69yKl
ebay.to/2j79CJD
Z Axis Ball Screw ($37.99):
amzn.to/2zU9Nm6 (Doesn't include supports or coupler)
ebay.to/2AyFBN3
Longer X Axis Ball Screw ($29.36):
amzn.to/2nlynX2
ebay.to/2ANj8fx
Router Mount ($29.98):
amzn.to/2zSf7pT
ebay.to/2AmtsrD
Small Drag Chain ($4.45):
amzn.to/2jCWLyy
ebay.to/2zVFRpB
Big Drag Chain ($12.99):
amzn.to/2nkBezH
ebay.to/2i8tsU4
Wire ($21.95):
amzn.to/2jBuS9M
ebay.to/2zUyGOm
Limit Switches ($11.59):
amzn.to/2jCRbfr
ebay.to/2nlAjyM
Power Supply ($50):
amzn.to/2i6poDD
ebay.to/2zGuY6S
Nuts and Bolts Order Screenshot ($81.80):
bit.ly/2kepBca
The Router I Used:
amzn.to/2iaYjPV
Transfer Punch Set:
amzn.to/2jAtt3z
Sign up for monthly income, expenses, and net worth reports!
newsletter.mike...
Help us make these videos:
/ mikeandlauren
Twitter - / mikeandlauren
Instagram - / lauren_moyer
Facebook - / mikeandlaurentv
Check out our blog:
www.mikeandlaur...
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Just stumbled across your design video from early 2017 and thought to myself, "dang I guess he gave up on it". Then literally 2 days later I see the notification for this video! Lol! Great job so far, it's looking very strong for 6061. Can't wait to see more!
Haha, "dang I guess he gave up on it" crossed my own mind every time I walked by the parts in the shop for the last 6 months.
Hey looks pretty good! Just so you know though those bottom rails probably shouldn't be mounted upside down so the gantry hangs. the pillow blocks are split at the bottom and with constant weight pulling them down they will slowly deform and spread apart leading to slop early on it's life the pillow blocks have no way to stop the alum. from slowly bending apart if the force is applied on the open ended side of the blocks. I would add a second plate under your machine. Flip the bottom rails around so they are right side up, and have your gantry sit on top of them. with the pillow blocks mounted to the bottom of your gantry
Nice rigid build. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks!
Woo! This project is going to be fun to watch.
Little tip for doing transfer punching do one at a time drill and tap resemble for each hole this will prevent small errors from creeping in
I don't want to sound like a jerk, but you need to hurry up with the rest of the videos because I want to binge watch this build!
500 bucks for just frame🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 man you should be making this CNC at least a meter long✌️
you're not very patient on a 5 minute video huh
Too late, I think you have removed all doubt.
This will no doubt be a solid machine. Clearly he thought about it and made a conscious decision for it to be this small but for anyone else out there that considers making a CNC after this design please realize that scaling this up to have a 24” x 24” travel wouldn’t cost much more and you would certainly thank yourself later. After about 36”x36” the linear rails and ballscrews and things start becoming much more expensive. But th electronics for his small machine would be the same for a mid sized machine so I am of the opinion that it makes sense to go at least 36” x 36” to get the most CNC for your money. But like I said he consciously made this decision and after watching his builds I have no doubt this will be a stupid strong CNC build and I’m excited to follow the series.
Great point I should have mentioned. I built this machine to fit on a 24" bench in a mobile workshop. I wanted something compact and capable. You could make one in the sizes you mentioned for just $50-100 more.
this is a great build. better than any chinesiam ones people keep commenting on. rigidity is key in these builds
Good to see you back on the youtubes Mike!
Glad to be back! Heading to Costa Rica for baby #2, then we're going to get back to a regular upload schedule.
Interesting to see people who make the same mistakes I did when I built my first CNC, which also was my own design. I was also optimistic and imprecise with my drilling, so the same thing happened to me, quite a few holes were offset so I Had to do a lot of corrections. I guess we never learn... but that's the fun part of DIY.
Not sure it would help you given your base plate was so large, but I regularly have to swing the head of my drill press around to the side to drill stuff. Many things are too big to fit my drill press between the base and the bottom of the drill bit. It is possible to clamp stuff hanging off the side of the table and extending down the side of the table rotating the head to drill over free space. Mounting is always the trick, and often slower than hand drilling. Looks like your bench block got the job done. Glad to see this project rolling out. Can't wait to see the rest.
Right! AND/OR, you can swivel the drill press BASE 180 (and maybe move your press out a little to extend over the front of the bench?).
Hadda do that with my radial arm press.
Awesome to see you here! XD
That is a very nice Router!
Good job Mike. Been waiting for the right time to do that myself. I've already got one CNC but its made out of wood and isn't big enough.
I am actually building a cnc myself, RIGHT now. I am documenting it on my channel. Part 1, 2 and 3 is already uploaded and part 4 isn't far away.
Well this caught me off guard. Great to see you pushing through it. Keep it up!
YES!!! Finally! I've been waiting for this series!
Hi your CNC machine is too good. This CNC machine use for metal metrial?
Thanks for making this build series happen! Can't wait to see the finished machine! Two questions:
1. Your bill of materials doesn't seem to include everything-- e.g. the spindle?
2. Will you be selling detailed plans for it?
3. Were you inspired at all by Jeremy Schmidt's machine? His is ridiculously strong as well and uses fully supported rails like your Y axis, so I'm guessing you'll achieve the same level of rigidity in your machine :) I don't know if you were aware of Jeremys build, or if it's just a case of great minds thinking alike
Whoops I'll add the spindle to the BOM. It's a Bosch Colt I got refurbished from CPO.
I'm going to use it for several months before I consider making plans for it, but it's crossed my mind. I want to make sure it performs better than other CNCs on the market before I put the effort into making plans.
I'm a big fan of Jeremy and remember seeing his CNC video, but I thought his was a commercial machine. A shark or something?
Mike and Lauren sounds great! I do hope you decide to offer the plans once you're happy with the performance. And as for Jeremys machine, you're right -- that was a rebuild of a commercial machine, not a complete design.
Amazing! excited for upcoming videos :)
Hello and how are you? Respected please mention the size details of the all components or the parts that you are used to make cnc router machine. Thanks a lots.
Good job. Makes sense...overbuild it if you are not clear on strength. That is a better choice than coming up short.
what made you choose bolting over welding? great project btw
being able to disassemble probably
Hey Mike, just found your videos! In spite of the other comments, great job! If you are using Fusion 360, why the hole mistakes?...This is the first of your vids I have watched and will see the others in a bit. I am just about to start buying parts and having alum cut. Question though; you used linear shaft rails instead of guideway (square) linear rails?
Is there a reason why you specify the 3D design program here? Are you suggesting that the other drawing/design programs allow for hole mistakes? Hey TWBRKFD, get out of here! This subject is for adults.
Seems like you had a lot of trouble designing your aluminum to join at right angles. Is there a reason why you didn't make the main frame out of 80/20 extrusion?
I wanted something stronger than 80/20 extrusion. Once the machine is up and running I'll do a "review" video of my machine and put some thought into what I would do different.
80/20 extrusion might have less material for a given length, but the tubular nature of it makes it very resistant to deflection.
you want to make this unit strong yet you secured the gantry with 6 small metal screws
(total) on the base plate end grain??
Looking forward to the final result.
Real nice build, do you have cnc plans ? Kind regards Dennis
You want the gantry to be rigid, but as light as possible, so you don't have issue with motion-induce inertia, which translates into positional errors.
"Stupid Strong"????? LOL Good one!
Stupid strong and stupid small. Don't want to be negative, but If you build one anyway, then why not in a usable size?
Looking forward to the series!
Yey great build :) I'm also in the progress of making a new cnc. If you measure the holes on the sbr16 bearing block, then you see the reason why the holes was miss align. Seems like all the bearing blocks are unique he he, the hole pattern is never the same. :)
Haha, yup. I measured one bearing block and used it for all of my parts...I should have known better ;)
Jan H Brenna $$$$ CNC
Been checking out your videos great work i really wanna build a cnc out strong aluminum or even steal but iv been stuck. I run a cnc now that made outta wood great machine but i wanna make an aluminum one. Any tips i could get from you or stores,plans,materials etc? Thank you Would really appreciate it but ill keep watching as well
Dang, that does look to be dang strong, what will the actual work area end up being?
Work area is just under 10" x 10". Z axis is 3" but I can increase it pretty easily with a couple modifications.
Nice build. What is the name of the counter top material?
did you tap any of the holes or did you just let the screws do the work?
Echo, tell Mike I appreciate his being open about having trouble getting started on some projects. Sometimes things like that (sharing our less than perfect parts) are as helpful as the videos. Thanks. Echo, go back to sleep.
Glad I'm not alone. The worst part was considering scrapping the project because I had let it sit so long I didn't know where to begin. Glad I powered through!
I'm glad you powered through too and look forward to seeing the series.
Very interested in this idea! Are you still looking to make a "kit" with your China connection? I was looking in to an xcave but not thrilled by the belt drive and CNCs like the next wave shark are out of my current price range. Thanks for all you do +MikeandLauren
I'll want to use it for several months to stress test it before I consider plans or a kit, but I'm open to the idea.
You may want to consider LinuxCnc the 16 to 32 command buffer in tinyg can be frustrating to learn with.
Are you intending to cut steel with this mill build or is it strictly for softer materials like aluminum and brass?
The plan is wood/aluminum.
Whats the torque specs on the motors you're using?
I cut the frame parts for the z-axis for my cnc also on the water jet and had the same issue with the hole alignment...
In the end i had to drill quite a few holes on the milling machine, mill the faces where the mounting holes are, to fit everything...
The waterjet is a really nice machine but not everytime the perfect solution...
Seiberger I think the problem may be less to do with the waterjet and more to do with the Chinese import linear rails and slides. Sometimes you don't even need to measure to see that the hole locations haven't been spaced evenly. It's a trade off for the parts being so cheap, they're usually good enough if you drill your mounting holes a little oversize and once you start looking at things like Hiwin rails the costs start rocketing.
That was the issue in my case. I measured one set of rails and bearings and used those dimensions throughout my design. It turns out no two parts were alike from china.
Well, in my case it was the opposite...for my build I used quite nice linear rails from IGUS, unfortunatly the Waterjet wasn´t calibrated well (the cutting angle was slightly off 90°) ...
However i used 10mm thick aluminum (6000 series) too and my machine is holding up very well...
When building Diy-CNC mills, where cutting speeds aren´t that important, it isn´t really a big deal when the frame is oversized. As long as the stepper/servo motors are strong enough everything should be fine...
nice machine
I would be tempted to drill and dowel pin the frame and gantry joints. You are relying on friction to keep things located without dowel pins fitted.
HOLY CRAP this thing is overbuilt. Sometimes more material doesn't lead to any advantages. Using half inch plates for a 18"x18" router is overkill by a margin of like 4 or 5. We have a 4'x8' machine with quarter inch thick plate construction, and it is more than sturdy enough. You are making up for poor design with thicker plates. you could make this machine for a quarter of the cost and twice the rigidity.
You should show us best practices done. Seriously, the optimization of material to rigidity or weight or cost, etc. is a fantastic subject and never receives the attention it deserves in DIY videos. Of course, he could have bought a similar size machine from eBay, but what would be the fun in that :)
Well optimization of shape and design is a very complicated subject and I doubt that many people would find it interesting. I'll back up Peter and say that I'd call this the "stupid design" CNC not super strong. Rather than just using crazy thick material it would be much better to determine what forces are acting on the machine, and mostly what torques those would apply. Then a good understanding of how moments of inertia affect a shapes ability to resist bending (a good example would be reading about the maths behind I beams). Source: Mech Engineering degree, hobby machinist, and I work designing and building professional grade CNC mills and lathes.
For what it's worth, I would find "optimization of shape and design" HIGHLY interesting :)
And it does not claim to be a super strong machine. It's just stupid strong :)
Where is yours?
Is there a way for you to make a shortcut for your echo so you can just say, "Echo, action," and, "Echo, cut."? If not, I think that would be a cool video to write code for that.
Yes, you can create custom "skills" to do that. My programming knowledge wasn't up to the task, though. Making the echo think "the recording" was a bedroom light was the best I could do ;)
Hello, I am writing from Turkey. Are there any Cad files related to your cnc?
Stupid heavy... but not precise. For 1/2 price, same weight, ridgidity and low precision you could have welded up 4'x8' table and gantry out of square tubing (and that's including a $300 mig purchase!). But I agree with many comments - extrusions are the way to go.
Why did you choose to use Aluminum? Instead of steel, or anything else?
Cost? Weight?
Also, how did you decide what thickness to buy? Looking forward to the rest of this series!
+Yonatan24 weight and availability.
+Yonatan24 This is my first build so I guessed 1/2". It's probably overbuilt, I think I would use 3/8" next time around.
Is waterjet cheaper than CNC? or more expensive but better?
More expensive and not the same purpose. a CNC carve material, a waterjet cut them.
This will no doubt be sturdy. But it will also be very expensive for a very small work area. I don't really see what type of work requires such a small and strong machine?
Hi But now did u find solution for accurate drill for the side plates?
Hi Mike and Lauren. Tried to email you but get them back undelivered. How can I contact you? regards Rob
What tool were you using at 1:13 - 1:17?
Hi, can you send me plans to build this amazing CNC mill ?
Are you selling plans
should use steel plate, so go learn how to plasma cut and MIG/TIG
Plsease where did you buy the aluminum plates ?
I bought them from a local water jetting company. I sent 2 or 3 places my files and they gave me quotes.
Fire it up.
At 4:08 when it hits, you can see a bit of play. Is that ok?
+Yonatan24 at that point the bolts were not even finger tight. If you look closely you can see the gantry is just sitting on 2 or 3 threads. No flex now that everything is tightened up!
"So far we only have half the bolts lining up." Welcome to cheap Chinese cnc parts! No, I'm not being a troll, they really are bad at making cheap precision parts. Ironically, the parts that they make and we buy to make cnc machines probably aren't made on cnc machines. Screw hole spacings vary from one bearing to the next. The feet of supported linear rails I have look like they were drilled by hand on a drill press with a bit that hasn't been sharpened since 2009. It goes on and on. The fact of the matter is that these parts are actually hand made and no two are alike.
The takeaway is that you should never, never pre-drill holes until you have parts in hand, AND have decided which part you're going to use where, AND have measured each part and documented the hole positions, size, etc. You just can't rely on specs.
overengineering is bad, pipes brazed to thin plates would be a much cheaper alternative
If you work on wood and plastic - yes.
But any metal - it might work :-)
Rather thicker material than too thin. Rigidity is key to your machine.
Not trying to put down your design, but if you are building it as strong as you are why did t you design it to be larger
It sure is strong, but sure aint stiff. Especially your base plate, you should connect them. A cnc should be stiff as hell, hence why the professional cnc's are built from cast iron.
have thought of using a cnc to make cnc´s? who born first the egg or the chiken?
"The me from 6 months ago" lol! I know that guy. He starts projects at my house all the time. Then I have to unravel the mystery of what in the world he he was thinking???
At Last!!
Instead of using screws why didn't you just weld the pieces together?
Stupid might be the keyword here. And what's with the poor design and planning? Nothing lines up properly. Take your time. Do it right the first time.
What is the size?
for this small size a fixed gantry would be much better
I am sorry, but the way to use the rails this way, you use just 30% of them, the load of this rails are just from the top.
Buen video me podras pasar las medidas de favor o el autocat
"stupid strong" would have been cast iron, granite or at least steel, with some proper linear rails, a proper spindle, some decent drive motors, electronics snd limit switches. this is nothing more than an over glorified 3d printer chassie with a click bait title, to entice people to watch it and buy your "training video" when there's hundreds of them on you tube
There are always room for improvements, but this machine is very solid compared to a lot of the junk out there...and building one like this is a good starting point to learn what works and what doesn't, so if you want to build a more 'serious' unit in the future you won't waste time and money heading down dead ends. Nothing really click-bait about it, and for rigidity the thick aluminum is more than sufficient. The only real thing I would have done differently is linear rails instead of those round roller track things.
In my experience (limited) the round rails are actually pretty good, once cost is factored in. Why a CNC cannot be "strong" when made of aluminum is beyond me. The reliance on thick aluminum rather than clever shape design however seems to be a major factor, particularly in cost for them.
An old axiom goes something like this "A machine should only work material that is what it is made of or less". So, in this case, Aluminum, Wood, and Plastic. As far as rod rods I say they need to be 12-20mm round (get a CNC to understand why) BUT at the price for the C style bearings and the rods themselves you are better off buying linear rails and blocks as the cost isn't all that much more but the rigidity is through the roof in comparison.
Robbie James , we have manufactured with both round and linear rails and the rigidity is night and day. We actually have a stupid strong router design for a 20x40 table and it machines aluminum like butter. Previously we tried similar to what he has and it wasn’t rigid enough for metal.
@@glennedward2201
I've just finished my CNC and it machines (so far) aluminum and mild steel (looking at stainless!) to +- 0.02mm. This is despite my multiple flawed design choices (like using 8mm leadscrews for transmission and mostly 16mm round rails). It's not great, and I'm looking to upgrade it, but so far it gets the job done.
Can mill métal?
Not a good design at all. This is not the correct way of how things are done when you build a machine... Too amateurish.... All plates have the same thickness... Accuracy is very important. You have to measure, adjust, shim, etc. You cannot slap everything together like shown in this video... All markings on the surfaces are visible... It looks like corrosion and and surface oxidation problems were not considered at all. It is not stupid strong as claimed here.
What's inherently bad about all the plates having the same thickness? Which parts require measurement, adjustment, shimming etc. What is wrong with the visible surface markings? What problems do corrosion/surface oxidation pose? And how does this impact the machine's strength? I'm not saying that you're wrong, but pointing out the unhelpful nature of your comment.
If you want it stupid strong, you should have used steel not buttery aluminium
if the entire thing was one big chunk of cast iron then I'd be inclined to call it "stupid strong", this is just okay.
Like
this is TANK ?
Just another comment on your design, those open linear rail bearings supposed to be installed the other way so that the weight rests on the bearings, pushing them down towards the rods. The way you installed them is wrong because they introduce a very weak point in your design, maeing is a "stupid weak" CNC, instead of "stupid strong". I guess you know that by now... Never the less, I will check the other four vids as well to see how far you get before you realize that.
That 700 here is 2200 for the same job.
Five Parts! 😮
Did you design it in Fushion360? (asked before the end of the video)
LOL @ "stupid heavy"
get some grease on those rails!
Lol 500usd just for metal and cutting such huge waste of money.
Those linear bearings don't sound so good...
It was the y axis coupler out of alignment. After making the final adjustments, the noise went away.
‘Super strong’ are you having laugh - this is good frame for 3D printer or laser, might be light engraving in soft materials.
Appropriate design? This is n standard portal CNC milling machine. Not your own design. If so, you could sue any business that uses your design.
That gantry slidin' was too sexual
Reported!
Damn y'all are really living "frugal", that retirement might come sooner than expected hahahaha not
CNC machine repair work help
not as strong as you think ofc
doesn't look that strong. The name is a little deceiving.
There's a mistake in your design. With only one leadscrew for x, when the tool is in the middle, everything is ok, but when it's milling in one side of y axis, you'll have a big big twisting torque pulling the bridge one side in one direction and the other side in the opposite one. Say goodbye to tolerances or good finish. Solution is putting two leadscrews for x axis, one en each side of the table. In this way you are 100% controlling what hapoens in each side of the bridge.
Interesting. I'll have to test that out.
If this is “stupid strong”.... I don’t know what to call my Cnc steel cutting mill... 1/4” thick wall, 6”x6” steel tubing for the gantry and frame.... maybe I’ll call mine.... “Democrat-stupid strong”?
You designed this yourself but have no idea if it is going to work. How is that possible? To move forward with something you have know idea will work or not? I mean. you must have had some sort of confidence the thing would work. Maybe just a small inkling? Like, for sure you new those bolts would hold the pieces together. You named it the stupid strong CNC because you were not sure if it would be strong? Or because you knew it would be strong?
Your killing me with your false projection of lack of confidence in your self. Do you really expect us to believe you "painstakingly" speced the screws for the parts and did not right down what was for what? How did you order the parts if you didn't make a list?
You teach a course in Fusion 360, but can't get the waterjet guy a file, to line up your holes for bolts correctly? What was he doing, measuring using a ruler? Really?
I bet the problem wasn't the file he sent to the waterjet guy. I have used those bearings and not all the holes by the factory were the same.
Always check your parts dimensions should be part of the planning stage of any material order is my thought. The very idea of using Fusion is to ensure accuracy by testing how things are going to go together.
I'm just sayin, that to me, there's a small sense of irony in it all :-)
I made the mistake of using one part's dimensions throughout my design. Turns out every bearing, rail, ballscrew had slightly different dimensions from China.
You might have discovered the same problem as another TH-cam CNC builder went through - orientation of the slide mounts. Here's his video - th-cam.com/video/ljSHwaRmlQ8/w-d-xo.html