Quick question I have my yoke and when I insert it into the output shaft in the rear it goes all the way through without stopping is that okay is the trans still good if not what could be wrong
Hi MF, thank you for watching...Based solely on what you've mentioned, I'd check things like motor mounts, rear transmission mount, U-joints, driveline, rear end to start (assuming you haven't done this already)...Most of the time, these 'bumps' that happen in first immediately after taking off are attributed to those things vs something internal transmission or TC.
@@nickstransmissions everything else is good. Definitely in trans. It's on the bench now. Was my first 4l80e build. After a successful 4l60e "175k so far". On the sonnax performance pack the dual feed directions it doesnt mention leaving that lip seal out. Which I didn't do. I feel I should leave out this time.
There's two schools of thought on that drum seal when it comes to dual feeding: leave it out or keep it in... Leave it out: This allows fluid to fill the cavity entirely without any partitioning of the piston which means marginally faster apply/quicker shift Leave it in: In this scenario, the center seal acts as a timing 'abatement' agent, slowing apply ever so slightly to cushion the shift feel I always leave it out as I want the direct clutch to come on as fast as possible since there's no concern about timing the release of a shifting band like in the 4L60E/700R4 or 200-4R. Since WOT shifts are happening at 5000+ RPMs in a high performance situation, anything that may impeded the clutch pack's travel to full apply isn't desirable. All that said, there are very well respected builders who feel it should be left in so as to promote better apply quality and that you can compensate for the timing issue by incrementally increasing the size of the 2-3 feed orifice (the assumption here is the 2-3 and 3-4 accumulators have been deleted via a block off plate). Hope that helps...
@@nickstransmissions thanks for that. A part of me was hoping that was my second bump problem. Pulled trans apart everything looks good so far. The kolene steels left a black residue film in the bottom of trans.
Thank you very much. I have benefited from your information I have a question and I hope you can answer it quickly because I am going to buy a 4L80 gearbox, but the power socket in my car is different. The one in my car is 7+4 pin divided into two pieces, and the new 11pin is one piece. Can I exchange one piece and replace it with the old one that comes in two pieces?
Hi @agrabalseed6662, thank you for watching. You existing connector on the vehicle's wiring harness to the trans should work as long as the pins line up but if you need to install another connector onto the vehicle harness then that's what you'll have to do...
Why is it so hard to find a late model 4l80e to rebuild? I want to put one behind a 5.3L L59 Suburban 4x4. I have a recipe (new crossmember support, new harness, flex plate, ecm tune, etc) BUT I cannot find a later year unit to buy (prefer 2013 - last year made).
Hi Keith, thank you for watching...I am facing the same problems sourcing good rebuildable cores out here as well...Everyone wants them for 4L60E swaps and resto-mods/hot rods...I've been going to junk yards and pulling them where ever I can find them. You don't need a 2013 year specifically, as they were all identical in every material way from 1999 and up. For real high performance, I prefer to install a 1991-1998 overdrive gear set service pack that uses the large roller OD one way clutch as the 2001+ are a bit undersized, IMO.
Idk if you check your comments but I'm hoping to take a 4l80e 2wd tranny and swap it into a 1992 k2500 4wd with a np 241c . From what I've read all I need to do is find a 32 spline input shaft for my np241c transfer case and remove the 2wd tailshaft replace it with a 4wd tailshaft and cut the length of the output shaft to allow it to mate up with the transfer case input shaft and the 4wd tailshaft ? But how do I connect my dash shifter linkage to it and how do I get it to shift?
Hi John, thank you for watching...I always check my comments and get alerts on my phone whenever someone posts a new comment to one of my videos. Here's the steps to convert a 2WD 4L80E to a 4WD 4L80E: 1- replace 2WD output shaft with 4WD output shaft (trans disassembly is required for this but you can try cutting the output shaft splined portion to length to avoid disassembly) 2. Rear case pin hole seal must be replaced with solid lube port plug (AD Delco - 9427692) 3. Replace 2WD extension housing with 4WD extension housing that is compatible with the transfer case you will be using Your 2WD 4L80E will already have the tone ring/reluctor gear on the rear planet for the output speed sensor as all of those 4L80E 4x4s had them until 1994 when the OSS was deleted/non-function for all 4WD units going forward. Not sure on the dash shifter, etc - you'll need to consult someone who has expertise doing these swaps - I do only bench builds...So once the transmission leaves my possession, my involvement with it is over unless it needs guarantee/warranty repair work for some reason.
Thanks for watching, Dale...Are you looking for a comparison video between the two of them or just asking my opinion in general when it comes to those two transmissions?
@@nickstransmissions I’d be interested in seeing a comparison video between the 2 if you have already. Best use cases and why which is better to go with depending on each case, benefits, pros cons etc .
You have inspired me to go to the junkyards this weekend to go hunting. I’m no longer afraid of transmissions haha
Awesome, Chris - happy hunting, stay cool!
Great information on the early years. I just stumbled across your channel and will be checking out more of your videos sir.
Thank you, orangetruckman!
Very informative as always ..Thanks again for sharing your knowledge…!
Thanks, BF4L!! Always appreciate your viewership and kind words.
Quick question I have my yoke and when I insert it into the output shaft in the rear it goes all the way through without stopping is that okay is the trans still good if not what could be wrong
That's fine - some output shafts are fully splined while others are not.
Great info!!
Thanks, man!
Learned a lot ...good stuff...appreciate it.
Thanks, KtFuture!!
Good job,great video
Thanks, Wilburn!
Thanks for the videos. What would your opinion be on a slight bump right after you start to take off? Happens in manual and auto.
Hi MF, thank you for watching...Based solely on what you've mentioned, I'd check things like motor mounts, rear transmission mount, U-joints, driveline, rear end to start (assuming you haven't done this already)...Most of the time, these 'bumps' that happen in first immediately after taking off are attributed to those things vs something internal transmission or TC.
@@nickstransmissions everything else is good. Definitely in trans. It's on the bench now. Was my first 4l80e build. After a successful 4l60e "175k so far". On the sonnax performance pack the dual feed directions it doesnt mention leaving that lip seal out. Which I didn't do. I feel I should leave out this time.
There's two schools of thought on that drum seal when it comes to dual feeding: leave it out or keep it in...
Leave it out: This allows fluid to fill the cavity entirely without any partitioning of the piston which means marginally faster apply/quicker shift
Leave it in: In this scenario, the center seal acts as a timing 'abatement' agent, slowing apply ever so slightly to cushion the shift feel
I always leave it out as I want the direct clutch to come on as fast as possible since there's no concern about timing the release of a shifting band like in the 4L60E/700R4 or 200-4R. Since WOT shifts are happening at 5000+ RPMs in a high performance situation, anything that may impeded the clutch pack's travel to full apply isn't desirable.
All that said, there are very well respected builders who feel it should be left in so as to promote better apply quality and that you can compensate for the timing issue by incrementally increasing the size of the 2-3 feed orifice (the assumption here is the 2-3 and 3-4 accumulators have been deleted via a block off plate).
Hope that helps...
@@nickstransmissions thanks for that. A part of me was hoping that was my second bump problem.
Pulled trans apart everything looks good so far. The kolene steels left a black residue film in the bottom of trans.
Thank you very much. I have benefited from your information I have a question and I hope you can answer it quickly because I am going to buy a 4L80 gearbox, but the power socket in my car is different. The one in my car is 7+4 pin divided into two pieces, and the new 11pin is one piece. Can I exchange one piece and replace it with the old one that comes in two pieces?
Hi @agrabalseed6662, thank you for watching. You existing connector on the vehicle's wiring harness to the trans should work as long as the pins line up but if you need to install another connector onto the vehicle harness then that's what you'll have to do...
Why is it so hard to find a late model 4l80e to rebuild? I want to put one behind a 5.3L L59 Suburban 4x4.
I have a recipe (new crossmember support, new harness, flex plate, ecm tune, etc) BUT I cannot find a later year unit to buy (prefer 2013 - last year made).
Hi Keith, thank you for watching...I am facing the same problems sourcing good rebuildable cores out here as well...Everyone wants them for 4L60E swaps and resto-mods/hot rods...I've been going to junk yards and pulling them where ever I can find them. You don't need a 2013 year specifically, as they were all identical in every material way from 1999 and up.
For real high performance, I prefer to install a 1991-1998 overdrive gear set service pack that uses the large roller OD one way clutch as the 2001+ are a bit undersized, IMO.
Idk if you check your comments but I'm hoping to take a 4l80e 2wd tranny and swap it into a 1992 k2500 4wd with a np 241c . From what I've read all I need to do is find a 32 spline input shaft for my np241c transfer case and remove the 2wd tailshaft replace it with a 4wd tailshaft and cut the length of the output shaft to allow it to mate up with the transfer case input shaft and the 4wd tailshaft ? But how do I connect my dash shifter linkage to it and how do I get it to shift?
Hi John, thank you for watching...I always check my comments and get alerts on my phone whenever someone posts a new comment to one of my videos.
Here's the steps to convert a 2WD 4L80E to a 4WD 4L80E:
1- replace 2WD output shaft with 4WD output shaft (trans disassembly is required for this but you can try cutting the output shaft splined portion to length to avoid disassembly)
2. Rear case pin hole seal must be replaced with solid lube port plug (AD Delco - 9427692)
3. Replace 2WD extension housing with 4WD extension housing that is compatible with the transfer case you will be using
Your 2WD 4L80E will already have the tone ring/reluctor gear on the rear planet for the output speed sensor as all of those 4L80E 4x4s had them until 1994 when the OSS was deleted/non-function for all 4WD units going forward.
Not sure on the dash shifter, etc - you'll need to consult someone who has expertise doing these swaps - I do only bench builds...So once the transmission leaves my possession, my involvement with it is over unless it needs guarantee/warranty repair work for some reason.
4l80 vs 6l80.....
Thanks for watching, Dale...Are you looking for a comparison video between the two of them or just asking my opinion in general when it comes to those two transmissions?
@@nickstransmissions I’d be interested in seeing a comparison video between the 2 if you have already. Best use cases and why which is better to go with depending on each case, benefits, pros cons etc .
Thanks, Jay - will look to do a video covering that topic.
TRANS Park Neutral