How to Fix Stripped Screw Holes on Your RV
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2022
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RV repairs are necessary and stripped out screw or bolt holes happens more often that you think on RV's. Whether its on an awning arm, awning support, window curtain tensioner, skylight framing or interior/exterior trim, this video will demonstrate 3 different methods on how to repair the stripped hole so you can get on with your camping trip. We'll show you how to easily perform all 3 methods whether you are a seasoned handyman or just a beginner.
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Great stuff Ross! I’ve used all these methods and they all work great. I’ve also dipped toothpicks in wood glue and then packed them into the hole tight. Let them dry, then break them off. Works great if you don’t want to drill out the hole for a dowel.
great idea, thanks for adding Matt! 👊
Been using these tricks for years and they work great. Good to see your putting these type of videos out there to help others.
thanks Stan
I used small zipties because I did not have toothpicks. Worked geat.
I learned of zip ties about 7 minutes after publishing the video and we can’t change it after the fact. 🤦🏻♂️
Been there, done that! My #1 recommendation would be to tighten the screws by hand. It's slower, but far less risk of stripping out the hole. Power tools speed things up tremendously for professionals, but they can also produce mistakes that wouldn't occur if done by hand.
Agreed
Brilliant use for wood dowels. My husband noticed the awning arm support is loose. Thanks Ross!
Glad to help
Great tips! For larger holes, I use a golf tee instead of toothpicks.
excellent idea, thanks for sharing Paul!
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS my pleasure and some tees are more tapered than others and it works beautifully.
Use the dowel method every time you can! Great video.
my preference too!
Thank you so much for this. New to RVs and even little repairs like this are a little intimidating at first. Easily fixed my tensioning screw hole with confidence. Thank you kindly. I will be watching all of your videos. Perfect balance of concise and complete. Excellent editing.
Thank you Christina, glad they are helping.
Nice presentation: concise, accurate and organized. I used the tooth pick method on several cabinet hinges in my trailer.
Thank you Paul!
Great tips, thanks for sharing again!
anytime
Extremely helpful ! Thank you.
My pleasure!
Great tips Ross thanks 😊
thanks again for watching and commenting Corey
Excellent video. Very well organized and concise.
Glad it was helpful Randy.
That was excellent information! Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the effort 😊 All great suggestions!
You're so welcome!!
Great channel and info!
Thanks for watching
Great tips for a pesky problem!
What a good idea!
Glad you think so!
Appreciate the video. Thanks
I second that!
Thank you John, appreciate you watching and commenting! It helps the channel grow. Safe travels!
A wooden gold tee works pretty well too. Similar to a dowel. Also I've mixed sawdust with wood glue and pressed that into the hole. Let it dry and put the screw back in.
thanks for adding Chuck!
Hollow wall anchors are also great for hanging pictures in the RV.
Zip ties as option in place of tooth picks (as an option).
I’ve done most but not dowel- thanks for sharing
Welcome!
Great!
Thank you!
Hi Ross! Thank you for your video. It's always very well explained.
I want to install storage on the wall of my RV. How can I be sure I'm not making holes in a pipe or in wires?
plumbing and wiring is usually only run through the interior walls and fixtures of an rv, meaning the 4 outer walls usually dont have anything including pipes or wires in them. its the divider walls you want to be worried about. a stud finder will help you find studs. its the interior walls/room dividers where everything is run, and of course the floor.
Golf tees work great as well, glue, tap in and cut off.
zip ties are another one
I definitely recommend adding glue to your toothpicks. You'll have a much stronger fastener.
Maybe not for most RV thin walls, but I use wood glue and golf tees. Perfect in the house for door hinge screws that are stripped. No drilling, just use a hammer and the golf tee as a nail.
Good suggestion, thanks for adding Steve.
Hey bro, Very well done video! The only thing I would add is, you can start with the power drill but finish with a screw driver! Any thoughts? 👍🏻☮✌🏻
Yes I agree, I always finish with a screwdriver… old school training I guess, but totally agree.
What would you suggest ..my rail just screwed into my caravan roof just thin board an insulation . It’s for sliding wooden doors . The little screws just keep turning an pull out with the weight of the doors. Was thinking of trying to inject a none solvent glue help!!? Thanks mike
id have to see it, but if there is enough room for expanding anchors that might be the way to go.
Great video! Any suggestions for repairing ripped or torn laminate? Is there a certain glue that should be used?
where exactly are you talking about?
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS there is a spot under our kitchen table on the corner near the floor in our grand design as well as a spot in our outdoor kitchen from pulling the panel down to access the water heater bypass.
Ive used this product on linoleum in my kitchen that was peeling and it has worked perfectly, but I am not a professional floorer. amzn.to/3LjeKpt
you should be able to find extra laminate under or behind your cabinets that you can cut out and use since you wont see it.
What do u recommend for an area that you have to take the screws in and out. I have a bed that I have to remove in order to haul my rzr and I have stripped it out.
Probably a metal anchor.
Ross is da boss! Great video, like all your others. I just bought a toy hauler, and the ramp in the back has these assisting cables to alleviate the weight burden of the ramp when being opened and closed. The cables are secured or fastened to the ramp (frame made of aluminum about 1/8" thick) by way of a metal bracket held down by four self tapping screws. One of my screws is stripped. Because of the significant amount of weight that this cable bears, I am looking for a bomb proof fix for it. Any suggestions, other than using a larger screw? Thanks
I’d have to see it to really have a good idea. Is there a possibility you can put a nut on the backside?
Do you recommend finishing the tightening by hand so you don't overtighten and end up back at square one? Good suggestions 👍
yes sir, if I was performing the fix on an actual repair, i would definitely tighten by hand to get the proper feel. Good point Ike, thanks for asking!
Hello. We removed our built in jackknife cough which was between an exterior wall and the dinette wall. We placed an RV recliner in its place. This is great but the dinette wall is now wobbly. Any suggestions?
I'd have to see exactly whats happening but the first thing that comes to mind would be reinforcing with metal 90 degree brackets.
In some cases you can stuff the hole with fiber - string, cloth, yarn, etc - then soak it with super glue (cyanoacrylate) pre drill, etc. This will work on plastic or wood. Since the super glue sets in a couple of minutes it allows you to finish the repair pretty fast.
excellent tip David, thanks for sharing!
You have answers for everything hahah
I have a stripped screw hole going into a metal door frame. What would be the best method for fixing it? Thanks.
Try zip ties instead of toothpicks.
some good ideas. I have a stripped screen door latch on my rv door, so I'm working with a thin aluminum surface with sytrofoam behind it. Would epoxy possibly eat away the foam? That would leave an expanding backer as the best option right?
Ray, many epoxies will eat styrofoam. Try the backer. Let me know how it works out bud!
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS The expanding backer (had to purchase a Heavy Duty Metal Setting Tool for Hollow Wall with the backers for $20) worked great! My screen door latch is more solid than it's ever been and I'm sure I'll find other uses for this tool. Thx!
Good to hear!!!
What would you suggest for fixing the stripped holes for a striker plate? Our is sliding back and forth so right now we have to slam the door. Our neighbors probably hate us, but I am trying to research the issue before making it worse. I have toothpicks and zip ties on hand, but if some type of filler or anchor would be better I can go get those as well. Thank you.
Deanna, i would try toothpicks or zip ties first. Let me know if that holds up. If not circle back and well try to figure something else out.
Do you have any suggestions on how to remove rusty trim screws? I just purchased a 1999 Fleetwood Tioga and one of the corner trim pieces needs to be replaced. There are several screws that have the heads sheered off and several others that won't budge under "normal" screw removal techniques (I typically use my clutched drill with appropriate sized bit after a good dowsing of PB Blast). Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
if the head is stripped, i would first try getting them to turn out by putting channel locks or vice grips on the head from the front (not sideways, youll scratch the surface) and attempt to get them to turn out. if that doesnt work, drill them out. replace with bolts and nuts if you can, or a slightly larger screw.
Which method for straight fiberglass, only about 1/4” thick?
fiberglass is rigid, I would probably go with a toggle anchor, like the metal one seen in the video at 02:17. Never tried wood glue on a wooden dowel into fiberglass so I can't say if that method would work.
What kind of fixes would work for screws loose in sheetrock?
i would defintely go with a toggle bolt shown at 02:17
Is there a standard depth of interior walls in RVs?
around 2 to 2.5 inches.
Why didn’t you cover the sheet metal screws, like the door frame?
not sure what part of the video you are referring to, can you be more specific?
What if the walls are 1/2 '" styrofoam? once the screws have vibrated themselves loose there no way to add longer screws or toggle bolts.
Metal toggle bolts will open enough in a styrofoam wall. Plastic probably won’t, but never tested them on styrofoam.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS My Rpod's seats are completely off the walls and the holes are twice the size of the screws, from roads vibration, the screws are just barely in the styrofoam sheeting, and not even a stud was used to screw the seats to the wall. , quality job inspector must have been on holiday.
Well that stinks. Yeah you’re right he must’ve been off that day. Something else I learned after making the video was putting zip ties in the hole. That might work for you.
Don't most exterior RV walls now contain a hard styrofoam material which would make it difficult or impossible to use the expanding anchors in the wall? What is the best solution for those walks?
Hi Tim, a metal expanding anchor will chew through that insulation enough to expand. You can use something with a wide thread profile that bits into the insulation like these: amzn.to/3gcX185
1:12 😅 LoL
you never know what people will do so covering your butt is important on TH-cam.
Yeah I know that is what made me laugh
How far mankind has sunk
Common sense is not common
Fill the hole with plastic wood filler. Let dry retap and insert screw. Plastic wood is much harder that wood glue.
thanks for watching and commenting!
How would this work though for a heavy load / heavy use hold like the foldable handrailing that is screwed into the exterior wall which is mostly STYROFOAM insulation?
Handrails get their strength from the fiberglass wall, so I would assume an expanding backing anchor would be best. I’ve never pulled these bolts out though so I don’t know what they actually secure into. There is a wall directly behind where mine mounts, so it might be going into a stud. In that case I would probably use a Thicker bolt. I would have to pull my bolts out to see where they actually mounted though to give you a definite answer. Hope that helps.
Those dad gum screws on the shades make me want to set the camper on fire, but I got a future project to fix that
🤣🤣🤣
Why did you pass over the simplist permanent repair?? apply GLUE and reinsert the screw!!
What kind of glue are you referring to? Like an epoxy glue? metal and wood have completely different porosity and density, making them very difficult to glue together. in other words, as temperatures rise and fall, they expand and contract at different rates, and thats where bonding can come undone over time. unless you are using a polyurethane based glue, which is probably the best for gluing metal to wood, I would not advise anyone to use a wood glue directly on metal. its just not made for that. its simple science that cant be argued.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS In gluing stripped screws on my 5th wheel for the past 8 years i use a super glue mini pack from ace hardware. Once it cures, i have NEVER had a problem!!
@@dwightrudd9724 I get that from your original comment, but again I’m asking you what kind of glue it is that you’re using? If it’s a polyurethane or epoxy then I actually do mention that in the video. I’m guessing you didn’t watch the entire video.