Great content. As a 2nd season bowler, I'm getting a whole education on how to bowl (bowlers are helpful as hell - sometimes too much😆) but also equipment care. Thanks Nick.
Currently building a ball spinner for all my bowling balls. Sanding, polishing and cleaning by hand is a pain in the butt. One of those Haus machines would be nice but I’m not dropping 4K to sand a bowling ball. Haha. Great video!
BrunsNick is pulling back the curtain, I love this stuff!!! The surfacing machine does a great job, a super even cut. I have let my pro shop re-surface my balls a couple of times and they did a great job, but since I got a ball spinner, I actually do it myself at the end of every season. I hit it on 6 sides for both the surface (I like 2k on my balls so I go 500, 1k then 2k) and polish. My wife watched me surface a ball recently and she too was mesmerized by the process. I actually find that it is easier to polish a ball if you go through three steps of surface, not sure why, but it is just my experience. While my spinner may not be as good as the surface machine you have, I enjoy doing it, and have had good results...
So long as you take the proper steps and do multiple sides, a ball spinner can do just fine! 👍🏻 sounds like you do, keep it up! Don’t forget your apron or splash shield! 😎
A funny story happened to me last night, actually. Hit my GB4 solid with 500, then 1500. It was laboring a little the week before, and I had 12 games on it since I hit it last. Well.... They cut the pattern short by a foot because of the weather. I don't know if other areas experience the weather changes as much as we do. But, normally, with the cold weather, we have the pattern at 43 feet; then comes the warmer, humid weather, and the pattern gets cut to 42. I cannot move left anymore and hook the lanes like I used to. So I was down to my game 3 ball in 1 cuda pearl. Last night, after I got home, I hit it with some crown factory polish, and it should be good for Tuesday Trios.
Wow! There was a video here that I really needed. Thanks to you, I was able to learn something good. I'm embarrassed, but I have two questions. (Please understand that the context may be awkward as the questions are asked through a translator.) First, I asked Brunswick about the process of reproducing the factory finish of a bowling ball, and I received an answer that 20 seconds for each grit is required for 500/1000/1500 siaair / Factory Compound based on Haus machines. However, the process in this video was 500grit 2 minutes / 1000grit 1 minute / 1500grit 30 seconds. I wonder what the difference is between these two processes. Second, I used a ball spinner for the last compounding process. How much time do you think I would need if I used a Haas machine instead of a spinner?
Thank you for this informative video. Where in website I can find these restoration steps? I want to restore factory finish (500/500/500/1000/ Crown factory compound) for my Hammer Black Widow Legend .
Thank you for your reply. Actually, it is mentioned on the Hammer website "500/500/500" which made me confused; how to do sanding 500 three times but not the time for steps were not clear (any spacific time "seconds/minutes" for each 500's sanding) then 1000 followed by factory compound.
@@aalkhoori1 those steps were done when it was still owned by Ebonite International. I would suggest consolidating all of the 500’s into one step. 2 min/1 min/ compound. This all depends on how worn your ball is from the start. Might need more time at the first stage to remove track marks.
Is a spinner required for this compound ? I tried resurfacing my radioactive by hand and used the compound with a microfiber towel and the ball did not look shiny AT ALL after . Not nearly as shiny as NIB , is that correct?
@@brunsnickthank you for your reply & dang it … lol ok back to the drawing board. I really liked the ball out box , its losts its cover and is digging a tad too hard. I guess to the PSO I go . Been trying to do things at home to save $
What is the benefit of having the intermediate steps and how does it affect ball motion? For example: the Dark Web Hybrid, which is at 500/1000/2000 OOB. What if instead you only did 500/2000?
Good question. Skip sanding that way creates larger peaks and narrower valleys. Going in order will create more uniform surface throughout. You typically want to skip sand when you want a more aggressive earlier motion.
0:29 I love this ball’ I’ve have had some very high series’s and have scuffed it up. Yes I need to get new grips. 7:37 I heard you mentioned a crown factory compound to apply to ball? So I’m I doing it wrong Bec I put a stage 2 on my balls ? Ty for your input always Nick 10:29 oh man looking at what your using is a factory compound no polish? But what if you or I have a shinny ball with HK22, following the specs what do we use for HK22 or will that always be on their if not using 1k down 5k .Thanks nick
Yes, Crown Factory Compound is important to use as the final step. It’s not quite a high gloss, but it smooths it out to a nice, next to shiny surface. The steps are all listed on every ball for what to do.
Not a question about the process however I do have a question finishing application. What is the difference between polish and compound? I was always told that polished finish will speed up the ball motion and have a quicker change of direction when it hits friction, where a compound finish will slow the ball down which will cause a more gradual change of direction. Are both statements true or does it ultimately fall on the style of the bowler?
Compound is a rougher form of polish with more abrasive. It leaves the surface with a very light matte finish, not quite glossy. It’s a pretty common finishing step for brands of Brunswick as it can still dig and hook in oil with plenty of length. High gloss polish brings the ball to a shine promoting much more length and less hook potential in heavier oil. You won’t see this finish often on high end bowling balls.
Some trial and error and also depends on the condition of the ball. Also checking the end result with one out of box. Usually the eyeball test will pass or not pass.
Hi Nick, really enjoyed this video. I’ve been trying to resurface my equipment and I only make the ball reaction worst. I have a innovative 1/2 hp spinner. I followed the manufacturer steps as well as CTD’s recommendation for resurfacing. I just got back Vegas and while I was there I spoke with a storm rep about surface and was told my spinner is to fast, which causing my ball reaction to be awful. I’m at a crossroads now, do I buy a new spinner such as 1/3 hp or a haas machine (watching this video tells me a haas). My gut tells me a haas machine but my wallet says spinner. Lol… what’s your thoughts? Thanks again for the great content.
The reason it's said that "you can never replicate box surface", is because no matter what the specs say, without a surface scanner you don't really know what you're getting in the first place. Was the ball you happened to get finished with brand new pads, or were they used on 2 dozen other balls before yours? There's no way to know... we've all seen balls that were supposed to be at "X" grit as the final step, but visually it's clearly way off. I've seen plenty of seriously chalky looking balls that were allegedly 4K, and some oddly shiny ones that were supposed to be 1K. If you reset it yourself before you've thrown a shot, that's the only way you'll ever genuinely know that you're getting it back to the same condition each time, because you know what you did. "Box finish" is a crap shoot, and largely a mystery... always has been.
Good points, and yes, certain manufacturing variances can make one ball look off. If you refinish using all the steps the way you want and then like the results, then it’ll be a cinch to duplicate. 👍🏻
@@brunsnick Glad to hear it because a resurface won't help much if the surface is oil logged. BTW - there are pro shop operators who don't believe in oil extractions. The ball losses elasticides and plasticides, besides lane conditioner, and promotes surface cracks. My response is, "what do you have to lose"? If the ball is laboring to the pocket and it has a ton of games on it, bake the ball, remove the conditioner and see if it helps. If the ball still doesn't react, it's time to retire it. But if it works, good for you. I once made this suggestion to my brother, whose ball had at least 250 games on it. He had the ball baked and the first time he used it afterward he shot his first 300 game. As far as I'm concerned, that settles the dispute. Thanks for listening.
SiaAir pads typically last 20-30 uses before dropping off. You need at least a spinner to get a uniform finish on the ball at home. Haus machine is what we use to get factory surface. Doing it by hand is possible, just not easy. Maybe I’ll make a video of it to try and see the results.
You can do it by hand, but the results will be: 1) Inconsistent from one time to the next, simply because you're not a machine, and 2) It is fucking exhausting to do, lol... multiple passes around at least 4 sides of the ball, often with multiple grits. If you need to do several balls you'll be there all day, and when your done you'll need a shower. 🤣 You can get a spinner for roughly the price of one ball. The job then takes 5 minutes, and you'll get exactly the same results every time.
@@greggas1 Way back in the 60's...we used to add vent holes for the thumb hole to create a smoother release. Never saw vent holes for finger holes until now.
That's so cool... Just like the woodworking process. Maybe more like the Sharpening process but yeah so cool.
Great content. As a 2nd season bowler, I'm getting a whole education on how to bowl (bowlers are helpful as hell - sometimes too much😆) but also equipment care. Thanks Nick.
Great stuff. Pro shop and ball rejuvenation work is very foreign to most bowlers. Nice job showing it and going through the steps
I use trucut sanding pads from creating the difference and they are awesome. It lasts ALOT long then any other pad and is a truer cut then the others.
Great, informative video!
Currently building a ball spinner for all my bowling balls. Sanding, polishing and cleaning by hand is a pain in the butt. One of those Haus machines would be nice but I’m not dropping 4K to sand a bowling ball. Haha. Great video!
Cool video talk tech bowling bowling ball Brunsnick
Nick, would you consider making a video showing the difference in ball reaction between the Crown Factory Compound and Crown Factory Polish?
Sure. 👍🏻
BrunsNick is pulling back the curtain, I love this stuff!!! The surfacing machine does a great job, a super even cut. I have let my pro shop re-surface my balls a couple of times and they did a great job, but since I got a ball spinner, I actually do it myself at the end of every season. I hit it on 6 sides for both the surface (I like 2k on my balls so I go 500, 1k then 2k) and polish. My wife watched me surface a ball recently and she too was mesmerized by the process. I actually find that it is easier to polish a ball if you go through three steps of surface, not sure why, but it is just my experience. While my spinner may not be as good as the surface machine you have, I enjoy doing it, and have had good results...
So long as you take the proper steps and do multiple sides, a ball spinner can do just fine! 👍🏻 sounds like you do, keep it up! Don’t forget your apron or splash shield! 😎
Liked it sometimes I think pro shop skips one or two of the steps but maybe not. Doesn’t always look like box
Some variables could be how good/bad the ball was to begin with and the condition of the pads. SiaAir are generally good for up to 20-30 uses.
A funny story happened to me last night, actually. Hit my GB4 solid with 500, then 1500. It was laboring a little the week before, and I had 12 games on it since I hit it last. Well.... They cut the pattern short by a foot because of the weather. I don't know if other areas experience the weather changes as much as we do. But, normally, with the cold weather, we have the pattern at 43 feet; then comes the warmer, humid weather, and the pattern gets cut to 42. I cannot move left anymore and hook the lanes like I used to. So I was down to my game 3 ball in 1 cuda pearl. Last night, after I got home, I hit it with some crown factory polish, and it should be good for Tuesday Trios.
Wow! There was a video here that I really needed.
Thanks to you, I was able to learn something good.
I'm embarrassed, but I have two questions. (Please understand that the context may be awkward as the questions are asked through a translator.)
First, I asked Brunswick about the process of reproducing the factory finish of a bowling ball, and I received an answer that 20 seconds for each grit is required for 500/1000/1500 siaair / Factory Compound based on Haus machines.
However, the process in this video was 500grit 2 minutes / 1000grit 1 minute / 1500grit 30 seconds.
I wonder what the difference is between these two processes.
Second, I used a ball spinner for the last compounding process. How much time do you think I would need if I used a Haas machine instead of a spinner?
Thank you for this informative video. Where in website I can find these restoration steps? I want to restore factory finish (500/500/500/1000/ Crown factory compound) for my Hammer Black Widow Legend .
On every ball listing page has the specs of the ball and surface steps. 👍🏻
Thank you for your reply. Actually, it is mentioned on the Hammer website "500/500/500" which made me confused; how to do sanding 500 three times but not the time for steps were not clear (any spacific time "seconds/minutes" for each 500's sanding) then 1000 followed by factory compound.
@@aalkhoori1 those steps were done when it was still owned by Ebonite International. I would suggest consolidating all of the 500’s into one step. 2 min/1 min/ compound. This all depends on how worn your ball is from the start. Might need more time at the first stage to remove track marks.
Noted with thanks and respect 👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Is a spinner required for this compound ? I tried resurfacing my radioactive by hand and used the compound with a microfiber towel and the ball did not look shiny AT ALL after . Not nearly as shiny as NIB , is that correct?
Yes, you’ll need a spinner to apply compound or polish correctly.
@@brunsnickthank you for your reply & dang it … lol ok back to the drawing board. I really liked the ball out box , its losts its cover and is digging a tad too hard. I guess to the PSO I go . Been trying to do things at home to save $
@@danielweisman6764 invest in a spinner. Long term investment. 👍🏻
What is the benefit of having the intermediate steps and how does it affect ball motion? For example: the Dark Web Hybrid, which is at 500/1000/2000 OOB. What if instead you only did 500/2000?
Good question. Skip sanding that way creates larger peaks and narrower valleys. Going in order will create more uniform surface throughout. You typically want to skip sand when you want a more aggressive earlier motion.
0:29 I love this ball’ I’ve have had some very high series’s and have scuffed it up. Yes I need to get new grips. 7:37 I heard you mentioned a crown factory compound to apply to ball?
So I’m I doing it wrong Bec I put a stage 2 on my balls ? Ty for your input always Nick
10:29 oh man looking at what your using is a factory compound no polish? But what if you or I have a shinny ball with HK22, following the specs what do we use for HK22 or will that always be on their if not using 1k down 5k .Thanks nick
Yes, Crown Factory Compound is important to use as the final step. It’s not quite a high gloss, but it smooths it out to a nice, next to shiny surface. The steps are all listed on every ball for what to do.
Not a question about the process however I do have a question finishing application. What is the difference between polish and compound? I was always told that polished finish will speed up the ball motion and have a quicker change of direction when it hits friction, where a compound finish will slow the ball down which will cause a more gradual change of direction. Are both statements true or does it ultimately fall on the style of the bowler?
Compound is a rougher form of polish with more abrasive. It leaves the surface with a very light matte finish, not quite glossy. It’s a pretty common finishing step for brands of Brunswick as it can still dig and hook in oil with plenty of length.
High gloss polish brings the ball to a shine promoting much more length and less hook potential in heavier oil. You won’t see this finish often on high end bowling balls.
How do yo know how long for each pad? Or do you follow a general rule of halfing the time each pad? As you went 2 / 1 / 30s
Some trial and error and also depends on the condition of the ball. Also checking the end result with one out of box. Usually the eyeball test will pass or not pass.
Why put compound on the ball?
How does the compound effect ball motion?
Compound is like a rough polish, increases length.
Hi Nick, really enjoyed this video. I’ve been trying to resurface my equipment and I only make the ball reaction worst. I have a innovative 1/2 hp spinner. I followed the manufacturer steps as well as CTD’s recommendation for resurfacing. I just got back Vegas and while I was there I spoke with a storm rep about surface and was told my spinner is to fast, which causing my ball reaction to be awful. I’m at a crossroads now, do I buy a new spinner such as 1/3 hp or a haas machine (watching this video tells me a haas). My gut tells me a haas machine but my wallet says spinner. Lol… what’s your thoughts? Thanks again for the great content.
Use extra water and lighter pressure. Haus are very nice but very expensive. I don’t know too many people that have one unless they own a pro shop.
Thanks for replying back Nick. I will give it try and let you know how it went. Thanks again
As you said spinner is to fast i built variable speed fan switch to help slow down my spinner a little bit to help me out.
The reason it's said that "you can never replicate box surface", is because no matter what the specs say, without a surface scanner you don't really know what you're getting in the first place. Was the ball you happened to get finished with brand new pads, or were they used on 2 dozen other balls before yours? There's no way to know... we've all seen balls that were supposed to be at "X" grit as the final step, but visually it's clearly way off. I've seen plenty of seriously chalky looking balls that were allegedly 4K, and some oddly shiny ones that were supposed to be 1K. If you reset it yourself before you've thrown a shot, that's the only way you'll ever genuinely know that you're getting it back to the same condition each time, because you know what you did. "Box finish" is a crap shoot, and largely a mystery... always has been.
Good points, and yes, certain manufacturing variances can make one ball look off. If you refinish using all the steps the way you want and then like the results, then it’ll be a cinch to duplicate. 👍🏻
Nick, do you believe in oil extraction from your equipment?
Yes, very useful to restore performance.
@@brunsnick Glad to hear it because a resurface won't help much if the surface is oil logged. BTW - there are pro shop operators who don't believe in oil extractions. The ball losses elasticides and plasticides, besides lane conditioner, and promotes surface cracks. My response is, "what do you have to lose"? If the ball is laboring to the pocket and it has a ton of games on it, bake the ball, remove the conditioner and see if it helps. If the ball still doesn't react, it's time to retire it. But if it works, good for you. I once made this suggestion to my brother, whose ball had at least 250 games on it. He had the ball baked and the first time he used it afterward he shot his first 300 game. As far as I'm concerned, that settles the dispute. Thanks for listening.
And past USBC testing showed something like 99.9% of the stuff that came out during Rejuvenation was lane oil. So yeah, it works.
Nick, the question from @BowlerJ1 about oil extraction could be another great video to cover? Just saying....
I’ll have to find a ball that has more games on it for it to work. 😁
I noticed you didn’t spray water in the ball when using compound. Some pro shops recommend this. Why is that and why did you not use water?
Never heard that.
How do you know when to replace your pads ? Also can i get a box finish without a spinner ?
SiaAir pads typically last 20-30 uses before dropping off.
You need at least a spinner to get a uniform finish on the ball at home. Haus machine is what we use to get factory surface. Doing it by hand is possible, just not easy.
Maybe I’ll make a video of it to try and see the results.
@@brunsnick great thanks Nick .....
You can do it by hand, but the results will be:
1) Inconsistent from one time to the next, simply because you're not a machine, and
2) It is fucking exhausting to do, lol... multiple passes around at least 4 sides of the ball, often with multiple grits. If you need to do several balls you'll be there all day, and when your done you'll need a shower. 🤣
You can get a spinner for roughly the price of one ball. The job then takes 5 minutes, and you'll get exactly the same results every time.
cool thanks ..... @@notonyourlife7939
May I ask why you drill a small hole above your finger holes?
Vent hole for ring finger.
@@brunsnick Interesting
@@brunsnick Nice. In 40 years of bowling, I'd never actually seen a vent hole on a ball.😂
@@greggas1 Way back in the 60's...we used to add vent holes for the thumb hole to create a smoother release. Never saw vent holes for finger holes until now.