Excellent demonstration and review!👍 We gotten this Model and tested all functions well. NCV mode was working with constant beep and Light alert near power strip, wall power point..Hifi appliances..loving it 😊
The NCV can be easy improved by replacing the little wire with a stranded wire (2,5mm2) formed into a broad brush in detector cap. Leave about 5mm insulation and on soldering side just leave a few wires to solder. Works perfect within 5cm distance from 230Volt main.
I did your suggested antenna and it did indeed improve the NCV response. Before changing to the "brush" I was getting 1 bar max, now I can get 4 bars. 👍 Only thing is, if I tap the top of the unit while in NCV mode it will go off big time. I think this makes it sensitive to both mechanical and electrical impetus. Give yours a try and let me know, OK? I also went back in and took out the brush and replaced it with a wire open coil compression spring, with the end bent straight for soldering and the other end bent straight to point outward too. Works slightly better but is still sensitive to mechanical shock. Not sure if the original antenna was. I have a second unit coming in so I will leave that one unmodified and compare. P.S. the spring is not solderable, so I used wet flux and made sure the solder joint completely enveloped the spring wire. I also noted that the wire activates the beeper more when the hot wire is beside the NCV bump, not in front of it. I actually like this better, it's differentiates between the hot and neutral wire much clearer.
@@pault6533 I have no issues like that. I can localize precise and when i slap on top it reacts just a little, but thats normal cause this slap generates voltage spikes too. If you whant a case i recommend to use a "2.5 Inch Travel Carrying Case for Hard Disk", the Aneng M118A fits perfect inside.
Great review. I just got my Aneng. Cheap and looks cheap. Buttons, battery cover, back stand. I noticed there is another version, still M118A The other version has printed CAT TV 600V, instead on CAT IV 600V. Mine like yours, has printed, "10A", "TRUE RMS" and "VOhm Cap, Diode ans buzzer", in line. The other version has "TRUE RMS, printed lower. Printed "AUTO POWER OFF" is also printed larger on the other one. For CAT IV, the fuse must be ceramic with sand.
Appreciated Glyn..👍yes those CAT Typos are definitely surreal. I personally wouldn't use the M118A for anything above household mains. KEEP ON TESTING!
Finally got mine for US$4 shipped here in the Philippines thru a local online shop For the price I paid I couldn't ask for more functions! Hey Darren, can you do a review of ESR meters too? Thanks man!
Thank you so much for these in depth reviews. Been looking for an alternative to my Harbor Freight multimeter. Something with audio and decent probes, but don't want to spend more than $20. Do you have a top-5 list of cheap multimeters? Cheers
Thanks for reply . Yes sir battery is new but I can't able to cancel auto power off function of m118a . It is always power off after approx 15 minutes & I have to press power button again . I have to do this process all day. please help ..
After watching five straight Sanwa video review, I am having difficulty getting back to the peasant life. Got to find the REL button in my brain. Hehe Great to see your spirits still up as usual regardless the DMM brand. Keep on testing! Thumbs up sir.
Thats the same kind of battery lock screw Fluke uses on some of its meters, very handy its made so you can use a dime if no screw driver. handy This looks to be one of the more useful of the smart meters that doesnt take forever to read, had decent functionality for the low price they are asking.
True enough.. all good save for the uF range..slower than normal but at least it works. That easy off battery cover is a really nice touch..should see it on more dmms.
Make a 4 to 5 turns 6mm diameter coil with enamelled wire about the same gauge size as the dumb stock antenna and the NCV sensitivity improves tremendously.
I ordered it and I can't wait until I hold it in my hands! It's in a toy size but has a lot of functions!! At this price you can't miss it! So far I have 2 cheapos DMM, 2 more are on the way, next step is to buy a more professional and safer DMM!
@@KeepOnTesting Well, I need to say how much excited I feel that I got this little gem for 7 bucks only! In this price I would never expect that I could find so many features in such a small DMM!! I read comments where they say that after some high voltage measurements their resistance range is broken. Luckily I will never use it over 250 volts and I will mostly use for basic measurements, so (I hope and)I think that It will last for a long time! Great buy so far I can say! Also, I forgot to say how fast is the autoranging!! I didn't expect it, works like a charm! The only con I have found is that It's a bit noisy, beep beep everywhere and with everything🤣
@@just_arandom_guy8209 That's great news my friend! It really is a super little dmm and at the price you paid Xtra sweet!! Glad to hear you have another in your multimeter stable!
Hello how are you? I'm from Brazil, and I bought this multimeter, to measure amplifier outputs in the true rms function. you could make a video explaining how to activate the MIN and MAX function of the true rms function. I would like the multimeter to record at the time of testing the max output voltage of the amplifiers not being able to use this function. Thank you in advance. thanks
12:26 24C02A EEPROM? could it be a DTM0660L main chip there? if it is, then it might be hackable, like make the backlight stays on for 1 or 2 minutes, maybe? interesting... hey, i love that you bring Mr. Keysight into the DC voltage showdown. the Aneng 618C almost bang on with the Keysight in every test. cool!
I've try the NCV in Aneng M118A and if you're measuring no load it didn't gonna work but if you use it in with load like fan or light bulb it will work.
@@zorandjokic6523 UPDATE!sorry i didn't press hard the NCV button so the NCV function is not work,sorry i didn't notice that,i think Darren has a defective meter because my meter has all working functions.
Great question...They do use a relay so I'm sure they are at least as expensive as a standard dmm to produce. I think it's the new "norm" but definitely won't be a replacement for a standard dmm anytime soon.
Ah! I just noticed that the mA and A share the same jack. I'm trying to wrap my head around how a smart meter can safely measure continuity and current using the same input jacks. I feel like some cheap-o meters measure mA with the same jacks as the V...but those have a rotary dial.
I've ordered one on aliexpress. I'm gonna try and solder a square plate on that joust NCV. I believe it is supposed to act like a cap plate so might improve sensibility
Would you recommend this over the aneng M10? (you gave the M10 4* just over a couple of years ago in a review and this one, the M118A, 3.5* approx. a year later)
My personal favorite is the M118A...I just 😉 this multimeter. I think the M10 is slightly better in a technical sense but I'll still reach for the M118A if I can.
При выключенном состоянии зажмите и удерживайте кнопку Flashlight фонарик и включите питание нажав кнопку on/off. Это позволит прибору выйти на новый уровень функционирования.
Друзья русскоговорящие - просто включите субтитры и наслаждайтесь! Жаль, что не нашёл ни одного нормального русскоязычного обзора на ютуб, но этот обзор даже с субтитрами позволяет нормально понять что за зверь этот мультиметр.
No, I believe its pure coincidence. Completely different internals. Possibly ANENG is trying to trump on the success of the HABOTEST HT118A. Funny, I never realized the naming similarity during the review, so much material there 😳
great review, love your style, I have one, can you please do a tutorial how to make the NCV better (is it good to replace with taller wire), and can you tell us how to make the back light last longer? thanks again.
I found the current calibration for both of mine to be "off". What they do on many multimeters to calibrate current is add a smaller resistor beside the main shunt resistor in order to "trim" the shunt resistor to an accurate resistance. It appears that somebody "didn't get the memo" about doing this procedure, because on yours and mine, they didn't bother adding the resistor, leading to a higher voltage drop across R005 and therefore a more amperes reading on the display. There are two ways to go about determining the resistor required. (1) by observing how far off the reading is, then using parallel resistance calculator to change the resistance, or (2) trial and error using a resistor decade box or 1K potentiometer temporarily soldered to those two pads (R6 or R8, hard to read the silkscreen). I now have perfect calibration, "touché touché!" Maybe I will make a tutorial someday for the KOT website. BTW, this is my favorite Darren Walker video. A classic!
Wowzee Paul! You definitely impressed with your attention to detail on the shunt saga. Seems those "memos" are becoming lost in transit more often with Aneng as of late. So you now have a beastly accurate M118A that even makes a Fluke take notice ! Nice job as always Oh and yup..would be an awesome KOT blog! 👌 Your fav vid of all time too..I'll have to take another peek and see what all the fuss is about..hehe , thx 😊👍
Hi! Thanks for the review! Could you please dump your firmwhare from EEPROM chip? Your m118a seems to be quite accurate while mine shows too high (like +0.05-0.1v)voltage in DC mode
@@Maddregtube my biggest problem now is trying to locate it..I've got so many multimeters in so many boxes it's a real headache sometimes when I need to locate a specific model.
Good video. i am interested in this multimeter. it can not measure currents lower than 20mA ? what happens if for example the current is 5mA, an error or it returns a false value ?
@thek3743 Solution?. ..It's simply isn't designed for current measurements below the 20mA threshold. It states so clearly on the dmm itself. For 20mA and below you'll need to use a different multimeter.
I think I decided I want to go with a more well known brand multimeter, like UNI-T. Which one do you think is the best for around USD$30? Can spend a little more if there is a model that really stands out.
UNI-T UT89XD is a Top choice, as long as you don't mind a manual ranging multimeter. HABOTEST HT118A another solid 👌 player and Auto Ranging too! th-cam.com/video/qlpG12u0L3o/w-d-xo.html
@@KeepOnTesting I'll go with the UT89X, not the XD. I prefer the temperature probe over the LED test. I think that is the only difference between these 2.
I have this metter its good i use it alot..and another thing dont use auto use manual mode its work fast in manual mode and conectivity is good in manual mode
It's minimalist at best. These are CHEAP-O Multimeters so input protection is very basic. Best advice, don't switch ranges when plugged into the mains.😀👍
I replaced the battery with a nokia lithium 4.2v works great...anyone know how to calibrate voltages ?? Mine is showing 12,26 volts it should be 12.15v please help
Hey I loved the review, you've done a great job with the details. Many meters that are priced low have poor quality rotary switches that wear out. The cost of the mechanical dial is substantial for a cheapo meter. These "smart meters" with improved chips and design are becoming more viable specially for the low cost segment. I love the battery cover. It sounds like you've watched a lot of Dave from EEV-Blog. After a while of watching Dave poo-poo with his tacky "Eeeehh" remark gets annoying though...
Glad it was helpful! I prefer to keep to my own style. I love multimeters and I tend to let that synergy exude in my reviews.. perhaps I'm over the top at times but that's just me! Thx for watching! 👍
I like reviews but if kept Reviewing aside, I would love to see videos demonstrating, which would improve performance of such MM's. Do you get time out of your regular schedule for doing this?
I have some Multimeter tutorials in the works..although reviews take precedent on the channel I know alot of viewers would like to see some HOW-TO...stay tuned
I have one of these, but every now and then I would go to use it and it would be completely unresponsive with the backlight stuck on. I thought the rechargeable batteries were too low for the electronics to work. I would recharge or change the batteries and it would work again. This started happening more often until the backlight went on immediately after putting the batteries in and it would be completely unresponsive. Now it will only occasionally work when letting it sit for a while with no batteries. Any suggestions? I know it's super cheap and I should probably just get a different one, but I just like fixing things.
Have you tried replacing the batteries completely? Otherwise might be a short on the pcb caused by a faulty component. Without schematics its difficult to trace the circuit but if you have another multimeter you can test the components individually to see if they are performing as they should.
@@KeepOnTesting Yes I have, I've tried fresh alkaline batteries too. Normally when you put batteries in, it beeps and displays "auto" on the screen just like when you turn it on. Now mine only does that when I leave the batteries out for more than an hour. Otherwise 1 second after putting the batteries in, the backlight is on, there's no beep, nothing on the display, and the buttons don't do anything. In this video you mentioned that the larger component is a relay. I was thinking of tracing those traces to see if it had anything to do with the backlight or turning it on. How would I test that component? And yes I have a second meter.
I realized some meters you're testing NCV with the protective shroud on, while others you're testing NCV without the protective shroud. I suspect that reduces the distance from the load and gives an advantage to the meter that is being tested without the shroud. Test method should be consistent for comparison.
@@KeepOnTesting Primary purpose of the shroud (multimeter condom) is to reduce risk of burn to your hands. I've seen meters blow flames out sideways and blow up battery covers. Testing the meter as advertised shown on box cover photo is fair.
A good meter for the price point. The NVC sensor is a joke; that looked more like a needle probe--hum stick it into an outlet--lol. Anyway, one day, it may get to a point that we don't have to have probes to check voltage, current, ohms , and etc; something like the "tricorder" devices used on Star Trek. Which "smart" meter do you like the most? Good review--keep on testing.
@@KeepOnTesting...im still buzzing from my prize draw moment..be still my racing heart! , my highlight in a less than brilliant 2020 for sure...good things come to he who waits 👍
hello i have one in here but i cannot measure the current, how can I measure the current? I cant measure it altho I put the red probe on the other side which indicate 10amps
Sir i also have that multimeter. How can i fix mine. It's resistance doesn't work properly. It's showing different values. Can you tell me how to fix it? Please🙏🙏
I want to buy a cheap multimeter for my DIY projects, I want it to have fast response, but I don't want to spend money on expensive Fluke ones. I have looked at several cheap multimeters review, most of them respond veryslow and delay, even with measuring continuity. Can you give me some advice for cheap multimeter
My Meter trips the power every time I check AC positive to earth on my wall outlet. Works fone posative to negative. Other multimeters I have used don't do this and show the correct voltage. Have you had this issue?
Interesting..first I've heard of this problem. No, mine does not have this issue. Are you using the stock test leads ? If so, try a different pair. These ANENG leads aren't very good. Also, are you sure you didn't have the leads inserted into the amps jack while checking voltage, this could've caused it as well...
@@KeepOnTesting hmmm I will try other leads! Yea I made sure to have them in the correct jack. I've checked at different houses too. To reiterate Its fine when I test voltage from positive to negative on a wall outlet, but when I check positive to earth it trips. I almost feel like asking for a replacement or refund but that feels too petty considering how cheap the item was lol....
i measured voltage when it was resistor mode( voltage was about 300v) . then . it can not measure the resistance value . always fluctuation . what can i do . is it easy to repair ? . or buying new multimeter ? .thanks in advance
Hi Darren. Congratulations for your videos, they have a great content. I need your help/advice to buy “the best & cheap” dmm for a beginner/home hobbyist, the main use will be check contact current/voltage, battery voltage, try to repair coffe makers or PC’s or cellphones, or somethings like that. I have my eye on three ones: aneng m118, uni-t ut125c & lomvum t18d or t18e. I can’t expense more than $20 us dollars. I saw all your reviews of available models and i don’t know what to purchase. Thanks in advance for your answer. (Anyone is invited to answer me too) Update: At home we hace 4 Schnauzer.
4 Schnauzers...Wow! 👍 To pick from your list ...I would choose the LOMVUM T18D. I think it has the best combination of display size, build quality and features! All are good multimeters but you'll be able to do more with the T18D.
@@misaelcervantes3200 UNI-T UT123 is also another great little multimeter though it doesn't do current nor does it have a diode mode..that may be a deal breaker.
Thks again. It’s a hard choice, i think so i have to raise my budget to $25 usd. In your review the RM113D has a very poor quality (test leads) and the uni-t ut125c get 4.5/5 stars. Why you didn’t recomended it? But the flicker on the screen for the NCV always active is nasty (ut125c)
@@KeepOnTesting , thanks. It beeps when I let the two probes touch each other and it reads 0.2 from 0L. And when i hold the two probes there's no reading. Just 0L.
@@commandernoodles2367 Yes that's correct. So if you tested a dead fuse for continuity it would not beep (because fuse is broken). A good fuse will beep because the path has not been broken thus it has continuity.. 👍
I've got my last Week ... Didn't like it 🙊 It's light, smells Cheap, look's Cheap, Buttons are Cheap, Flimsy Battery Door... Yes it works OK but I gave it my Neighbor and he is Happy 🙈
Roger that, its cheaply fabricated and doesn't pretend to be anything more. Better or for worse, we have been spoiled in the CHEAP-O realm. Cheap doesn't have to mean cheaply executed. Thank goodness for neighbours !
When the input is at 3.000V the 100 ohm resistor "R16" in series with the flashlight LED only drops 0.278 mV, meaning less than 3 mA to the LED. Pathetic! No brighter than the backlight, which happens to also have a 100 ohm resistor. The alert LED also is 100 ohm. I changed the flashlight LED dropping resistor to 20 ohms and got 7 mA then tried 10 ohms and got 9 mA, that's where I'll leave it I suppose, seems bright enough. This works with dry cells or alkaline cells but I wouldn't recommend it with lithium primaries which have too much voltage and would exceed 20 mA with this low of a resistor. However, I found this unit tends to produce errors on the display around 3.5V or above, causing a reboot or freeze. My unit arrived in the same exact box, no plastic around the device, no screen shield, no band around the leads. The one lead (or as they like to say "pen") had a smashed shroud where it would go into the device, no surprise since it is thin and brittle. Cracked in 3 places, leaving a mark on the front face of the device! Also they seem to be using out the mold on this unit because the cavity is showing signs of wear, horrible texture on the red part, Seems they are nearing end of life. Shame, it's cute and loveable and acceptably capable, albeit less accurate than most modern DMMs - even the cheapos.
Great 👍 info...I need to do the same as that stock BL is basically useless.Valid point too about the mold..definitely looks sketchy at best. Aneng is really putting a new meaning to the CHEAP-O REALM 😅 I do like the meter too, this could have been a really good buy had they done it right.
A piece of Junk, the LCD screen poor quality don't let you ti use it in a stand position because the number just disappering, measurement are not exact, thrown directly in the garbage.
Excellent demonstration and review!👍
We gotten this Model and tested all functions well. NCV mode was working with constant beep and Light alert near power strip, wall power point..Hifi appliances..loving it 😊
You got me with your vibes! So cool and lively, dude.
I am thankful for the inventor of this product because it is affordable, so all beginner tech can afford of it like me.
The NCV can be easy improved by replacing the little wire with a stranded wire (2,5mm2) formed into a broad brush in detector cap. Leave about 5mm insulation and on soldering side just leave a few wires to solder. Works perfect within 5cm distance from 230Volt main.
I did your suggested antenna and it did indeed improve the NCV response. Before changing to the "brush" I was getting 1 bar max, now I can get 4 bars. 👍 Only thing is, if I tap the top of the unit while in NCV mode it will go off big time. I think this makes it sensitive to both mechanical and electrical impetus. Give yours a try and let me know, OK?
I also went back in and took out the brush and replaced it with a wire open coil compression spring, with the end bent straight for soldering and the other end bent straight to point outward too. Works slightly better but is still sensitive to mechanical shock. Not sure if the original antenna was. I have a second unit coming in so I will leave that one unmodified and compare. P.S. the spring is not solderable, so I used wet flux and made sure the solder joint completely enveloped the spring wire. I also noted that the wire activates the beeper more when the hot wire is beside the NCV bump, not in front of it. I actually like this better, it's differentiates between the hot and neutral wire much clearer.
@@pault6533 I have no issues like that. I can localize precise and when i slap on top it reacts just a little, but thats normal cause this slap generates voltage spikes too. If you whant a case i recommend to use a "2.5 Inch Travel Carrying Case for Hard Disk", the Aneng M118A fits perfect inside.
Excellent photography. The sharpest images I have seen.
Thx Rajbir..Keep On Testing ! 😃👍
Great review.
I just got my Aneng.
Cheap and looks cheap.
Buttons, battery cover, back stand.
I noticed there is another version, still M118A
The other version has printed CAT TV 600V, instead on CAT IV 600V.
Mine like yours, has printed, "10A", "TRUE RMS" and "VOhm Cap, Diode ans buzzer", in line.
The other version has "TRUE RMS, printed lower.
Printed "AUTO POWER OFF" is also printed larger on the other one.
For CAT IV, the fuse must be ceramic with sand.
Appreciated Glyn..👍yes those CAT Typos are definitely surreal. I personally wouldn't use the M118A for anything above household mains. KEEP ON TESTING!
Finally got mine for US$4 shipped here in the Philippines thru a local online shop
For the price I paid I couldn't ask for more functions!
Hey Darren, can you do a review of ESR meters too?
Thanks man!
Какой веселый чувак😁, молодец.
Great explain 😁👍👍
Thank you so much for these in depth reviews. Been looking for an alternative to my Harbor Freight multimeter. Something with audio and decent probes, but don't want to spend more than $20. Do you have a top-5 list of cheap multimeters? Cheers
I love aneng
Thanks for reply . Yes sir battery is new but I can't able to cancel auto power off function of m118a . It is always power off after approx 15 minutes & I have to press power button again . I have to do this process all day. please help ..
After watching five straight Sanwa video review, I am having difficulty getting back to the peasant life. Got to find the REL button in my brain. Hehe
Great to see your spirits still up as usual regardless the DMM brand. Keep on testing! Thumbs up sir.
Spoiled eh ?...hehe..no worries 👍 Its all good..! Let me know know if you find that REL button..look like I misplaced mine.. 🤣
@@KeepOnTesting LOL..I hope you emailed Hioki and Kyoritsu . I hope they send you some of their DMM for review.
@@yusdiy What a great idea aka, I'm working on it..💡 😀
Thats the same kind of battery lock screw Fluke uses on some of its meters, very handy its made so you can use a dime if no screw driver. handy This looks to be one of the more useful of the smart meters that doesnt take forever to read, had decent functionality for the low price they are asking.
True enough.. all good save for the uF range..slower than normal but at least it works. That easy off battery cover is a really nice touch..should see it on more dmms.
This review makes me laugh as you make jokes. Thanks for this review.
Thx for watching Stephen 🙂👍
Make a 4 to 5 turns 6mm diameter coil with enamelled wire about the same gauge size as the dumb stock antenna and the NCV sensitivity improves tremendously.
Great tip!
I ordered it and I can't wait until I hold it in my hands! It's in a toy size but has a lot of functions!! At this price you can't miss it! So far I have 2 cheapos DMM, 2 more are on the way, next step is to buy a more professional and safer DMM!
Great stuff !! Its a sweet little multimeter and performance is very good 👍 let us know how you like it!
@@KeepOnTesting Well, I need to say how much excited I feel that I got this little gem for 7 bucks only! In this price I would never expect that I could find so many features in such a small DMM!! I read comments where they say that after some high voltage measurements their resistance range is broken. Luckily I will never use it over 250 volts and I will mostly use for basic measurements, so (I hope and)I think that It will last for a long time! Great buy so far I can say!
Also, I forgot to say how fast is the autoranging!! I didn't expect it, works like a charm! The only con I have found is that It's a bit noisy, beep beep everywhere and with everything🤣
@@just_arandom_guy8209 That's great news my friend! It really is a super little dmm and at the price you paid Xtra sweet!! Glad to hear you have another in your multimeter stable!
Hello how are you?
I'm from Brazil, and I bought this multimeter, to measure amplifier outputs in the true rms function.
you could make a video explaining how to activate the MIN and MAX function of the true rms function.
I would like the multimeter to record at the time of testing the max output voltage of the amplifiers not being able to use this function.
Thank you in advance.
thanks
12:26 24C02A EEPROM? could it be a DTM0660L main chip there? if it is, then it might be hackable, like make the backlight stays on for 1 or 2 minutes, maybe? interesting... hey, i love that you bring Mr. Keysight into the DC voltage showdown. the Aneng 618C almost bang on with the Keysight in every test. cool!
Most likely, the 24C02X usually pairs well with the Dreamtech IC.
YES, that Aneng 618C did a heck of a job keeping up..I was impressed too!
good review!!!
Thx my friend!
I've try the NCV in Aneng M118A and if you're measuring no load it didn't gonna work but if you use it in with load like fan or light bulb it will work.
nonsense..!
@@zorandjokic6523 UPDATE!sorry i didn't press hard the NCV button so the NCV function is not work,sorry i didn't notice that,i think Darren has a defective meter because my meter has all working functions.
Nice value there. It's near the top of the pile in the $10US range. If you were designing a DMM today in
Great question...They do use a relay so I'm sure they are at least as expensive as a standard dmm to produce. I think it's the new "norm" but definitely won't be a replacement for a standard dmm anytime soon.
Ah! I just noticed that the mA and A share the same jack. I'm trying to wrap my head around how a smart meter can safely measure continuity and current using the same input jacks. I feel like some cheap-o meters measure mA with the same jacks as the V...but those have a rotary dial.
I cannot manage to measure low current like 5mA. Any advice on that? Thanks!
👌
You are very funny and entertaining.
Thx my friend 😅👍
Good clip 👍
Thx .
Keep on Testing! 😄👍
I've ordered one on aliexpress. I'm gonna try and solder a square plate on that joust NCV. I believe it is supposed to act like a cap plate so might improve sensibility
Great idea.. let us know how it goes!
@@KeepOnTesting I jammed in aluminium foil into NCV probe point to increase receiver plate size. I believe it increased sensitivity.
@@Swenser Wow, that's a simple but effective fix..good job!
Thanks for the video, can anyone show me how to use max min for DC volt. It’s written in the LCD, but I couldn’t know how to use it. Thanks
For those WHO BLEW IT IN THE FIRST SOCKET and now looking for new 10A 250V fuse :)
It got an ncv wireless, nice... 😀
Would you recommend this over the aneng M10? (you gave the M10 4* just over a couple of years ago in a review and this one, the M118A, 3.5* approx. a year later)
My personal favorite is the M118A...I just 😉 this multimeter. I think the M10 is slightly better in a technical sense but I'll still reach for the M118A if I can.
Helloo, Love the video, great job, btw can we use thıs multimeter for capacitors? All the best :)
Yes indeed, up to 60,000uf (60 mF) 👍 Keep On Testing!
@@KeepOnTesting Thanx Darren, you are the Legend! :)
Funniest review i ever saw!!! touche touche 🤣, just bought this why the way....
Hey Nicolás ..glad you liked the review! Let us know what you think of the multimeter! 👍
При выключенном состоянии зажмите и удерживайте кнопку Flashlight фонарик и включите питание нажав кнопку on/off. Это позволит прибору выйти на новый уровень функционирования.
Правда? А можно поподробнее? Какие именно функции откроются?
@@KeepOnTesting Просто таймер автоотключения через 15 минут бездействия перестанет работать
@@stemhero7013 Спасибо!
Where is the LCD backlight connected. Mine came without one, but from the inside it looks the same. Wondering if I can mod it
Definitely..anything can be modded!
how's the difference from branded on DCA?
Hahahahaha....Your video is really interesting!
Друзья русскоговорящие - просто включите субтитры и наслаждайтесь! Жаль, что не нашёл ни одного нормального русскоязычного обзора на ютуб, но этот обзор даже с субтитрами позволяет нормально понять что за зверь этот мультиметр.
Русские друзья .. это отличный совет! Спасибо за просмотр 😀👍
The input resistance for DC volts is only 833kOhm.
I have another question: is there a relationship between the ANENG M118A and the Habotest HT118A(both meters have 118A)?
No, I believe its pure coincidence. Completely different internals. Possibly ANENG is trying to trump on the success of the HABOTEST HT118A. Funny, I never realized the naming similarity during the review, so much material there 😳
great review, love your style, I have one, can you please do a tutorial how to make the NCV better (is it good to replace with taller wire), and can you tell us how to make the back light last longer? thanks again.
Great ideas ! Many thanks 😊
@@KeepOnTesting can't wait for it.
@@antrofantro5893😊👍
I found the current calibration for both of mine to be "off". What they do on many multimeters to calibrate current is add a smaller resistor beside the main shunt resistor in order to "trim" the shunt resistor to an accurate resistance. It appears that somebody "didn't get the memo" about doing this procedure, because on yours and mine, they didn't bother adding the resistor, leading to a higher voltage drop across R005 and therefore a more amperes reading on the display. There are two ways to go about determining the resistor required. (1) by observing how far off the reading is, then using parallel resistance calculator to change the resistance, or (2) trial and error using a resistor decade box or 1K potentiometer temporarily soldered to those two pads (R6 or R8, hard to read the silkscreen). I now have perfect calibration, "touché touché!" Maybe I will make a tutorial someday for the KOT website. BTW, this is my favorite Darren Walker video. A classic!
Wowzee Paul! You definitely impressed with your attention to detail on the shunt saga. Seems those "memos" are becoming lost in transit more often with Aneng as of late. So you now have a beastly accurate M118A that even makes a Fluke take notice ! Nice job as always Oh and yup..would be an awesome KOT blog! 👌 Your fav vid of all time too..I'll have to take another peek and see what all the fuss is about..hehe , thx 😊👍
You review all these dmm. What is the best one for the value?
Check out my latest review and view the Top Ten CHEAP-O MULTIMETERS list in the video description 👍th-cam.com/video/ABfJ6pYhcr0/w-d-xo.html
Hi Darren! I'll get back to you at work tomorrow. There seems to be something wrong with my phone....
Thanks
Hi! Thanks for the review! Could you please dump your firmwhare from EEPROM chip? Your m118a seems to be quite accurate while mine shows too high (like +0.05-0.1v)voltage in DC mode
I'll see what I can do...
@@KeepOnTesting unfortunately in order to dump firmware from that 24c02 you'll need to unsolder it, otherwise programmer won't see anything
@@Maddregtube my biggest problem now is trying to locate it..I've got so many multimeters in so many boxes it's a real headache sometimes when I need to locate a specific model.
@@KeepOnTesting thank you anyway! )
Soldered a piece of coiled wire instead of the straight one at the NCV input and NCV is more than twice as sensitive now.
Good job...! 😀👍
Please show us what you did, thanks
Yeah, share a photo...
Good video.
i am interested in this multimeter.
it can not measure currents lower than 20mA ?
what happens if for example the current is 5mA, an error or it returns a false value ?
Probably a false value. It will try to measure but will display erroneous readings.
Same problem here. Any solutions?
@thek3743 Solution?. ..It's simply isn't designed for current measurements below the 20mA threshold. It states so clearly on the dmm itself. For 20mA and below you'll need to use a different multimeter.
Sir please reply how to stop auto shutdown function (APO) . User manual says press hold and power button simultaneously but it is not working .
You're doing the right thing..
Is you're battery fresh ?
I think I decided I want to go with a more well known brand multimeter, like UNI-T. Which one do you think is the best for around USD$30? Can spend a little more if there is a model that really stands out.
UNI-T UT89XD is a Top choice, as long as you don't mind a manual ranging multimeter.
HABOTEST HT118A another solid 👌 player and Auto Ranging too!
th-cam.com/video/qlpG12u0L3o/w-d-xo.html
@@KeepOnTesting I'll go with the UT89X, not the XD. I prefer the temperature probe over the LED test. I think that is the only difference between these 2.
@@PiratCarribean Great choice!
I have this metter its good i use it alot..and another thing dont use auto use manual mode its work fast in manual mode and conectivity is good in manual mode
Handy dandy multimeter 👍
Why mine cant measure the current? The fuse looks good can operate the load but not showing the amoere display
I cannot measure low currents.
is there any protection against high voltage if the resistor selector is plugged into the voltage. thanks
It's minimalist at best. These are CHEAP-O Multimeters so input protection is very basic. Best advice, don't switch ranges when plugged into the mains.😀👍
Ok, thank you, sir
Multimeter cheap o test, round 2!😀
i like this... even if you hate it , people buy it because its very affordable... aslong as it do the job then its fine...
Aneng definitely made it affordable..😊
I replaced the battery with a nokia lithium 4.2v works great...anyone know how to calibrate voltages ?? Mine is showing 12,26 volts it should be 12.15v please help
Hey I loved the review, you've done a great job with the details. Many meters that are priced low have poor quality rotary switches that wear out. The cost of the mechanical dial is substantial for a cheapo meter. These "smart meters" with improved chips and design are becoming more viable specially for the low cost segment. I love the battery cover. It sounds like you've watched a lot of Dave from EEV-Blog. After a while of watching Dave poo-poo with his tacky "Eeeehh" remark gets annoying though...
Glad it was helpful! I prefer to keep to my own style. I love multimeters and I tend to let that synergy exude in my reviews.. perhaps I'm over the top at times but that's just me!
Thx for watching! 👍
@@KeepOnTesting Hey, it's cool ;-) Some changes are sudden, some gradual. You be you, but Dave isn't all that great.
There's More features in small,cheap and automatic multimeter
I like reviews but if kept Reviewing aside, I would love to see videos demonstrating, which would improve performance of such MM's. Do you get time out of your regular schedule for doing this?
I have some Multimeter tutorials in the works..although reviews take precedent on the channel I know alot of viewers would like to see some HOW-TO...stay tuned
@@KeepOnTesting wow
what is the difference between ANENG M118A and ANENG VO3A, which is better ..?
M118 Has more functionality, ranges quicker and is generally a more powerful multimeter.
Red H/Bl what is it...?
I have one of these, but every now and then I would go to use it and it would be completely unresponsive with the backlight stuck on. I thought the rechargeable batteries were too low for the electronics to work. I would recharge or change the batteries and it would work again. This started happening more often until the backlight went on immediately after putting the batteries in and it would be completely unresponsive. Now it will only occasionally work when letting it sit for a while with no batteries. Any suggestions? I know it's super cheap and I should probably just get a different one, but I just like fixing things.
Have you tried replacing the batteries completely? Otherwise might be a short on the pcb caused by a faulty component. Without schematics its difficult to trace the circuit but if you have another multimeter you can test the components individually to see if they are performing as they should.
@@KeepOnTesting Yes I have, I've tried fresh alkaline batteries too. Normally when you put batteries in, it beeps and displays "auto" on the screen just like when you turn it on. Now mine only does that when I leave the batteries out for more than an hour. Otherwise 1 second after putting the batteries in, the backlight is on, there's no beep, nothing on the display, and the buttons don't do anything. In this video you mentioned that the larger component is a relay. I was thinking of tracing those traces to see if it had anything to do with the backlight or turning it on. How would I test that component? And yes I have a second meter.
sir can you help me send the binary file on the t24c02 on the Aneng M118a multimeter? I need it, my multimeter is short on the eeprom ic. Please !!
Sorry Pian, not something I have handy atm.
Hi , great video , how do you turn on the backlight ?
Left button (BL=backlight).😊
@@KeepOnTesting thank you, yes you rigth , its a " good " multimeter for its price..
Is it still working fine till now!?
Any drawbacks???
Still works.
All good.
It's a decent multimeter all around. 👍
I realized some meters you're testing NCV with the protective shroud on, while others you're testing NCV without the protective shroud. I suspect that reduces the distance from the load and gives an advantage to the meter that is being tested without the shroud. Test method should be consistent for comparison.
Point we'll taken. I will try to be more consistent with future NCV testing criteria.
@@KeepOnTesting Primary purpose of the shroud (multimeter condom) is to reduce risk of burn to your hands. I've seen meters blow flames out sideways and blow up battery covers. Testing the meter as advertised shown on box cover photo is fair.
No live wire?
No my friend ..
A good meter for the price point. The NVC sensor is a joke; that looked more like a needle probe--hum stick it into an outlet--lol. Anyway, one day, it may get to a point that we don't have to have probes to check voltage, current, ohms , and etc; something like the "tricorder" devices used on Star Trek. Which "smart" meter do you like the most? Good review--keep on testing.
Thus far the ANENG 618C seems like a great choice..
NCV works for me though, albeit not as sensitive as my voltalert
Thx for the update 👍
...its cap testing don't love me... It just keeps me aneng-ing on! Wooo ooh woohuh!
Oh aren't you clever...woot-woot! 😆👍 Then again you have a shiny NEW SANWA enroute so you will have to aneng-on a little longer!
@@KeepOnTesting...im still buzzing from my prize draw moment..be still my racing heart! , my highlight in a less than brilliant 2020 for sure...good things come to he who waits 👍
MrRadiorobot congratulations 🎊🍾🎉
hello i have one in here but i cannot measure the current, how can I measure the current? I cant measure it altho I put the red probe on the other side which indicate 10amps
Make sure to use the select button to switch to current mode. If still no luck, check your fuse.
@@KeepOnTesting but my button switch doesnt have current mode, it only has DC/AC volts, Resistance, Continuity, Diode voltage, Capacitance and Auto
In your's videos
Aneng M118 get 3,5 of 5.
Zoyi 102A get 4 of 5.
Aneng M118 vs Zoyi 102A. Honestly, which is better?
Zoyi 102A
Sir if i switch to resistance mode then i touch the test probes to 220v ac. Will it damage the meter. ??
Probably yes..Never a good idea to be in Resistance while checking mains voltage.
Remember, this isn't a Fluke so input protection is very basic.
Sir i also have that multimeter.
How can i fix mine. It's resistance doesn't work properly.
It's showing different values.
Can you tell me how to fix it? Please🙏🙏
Can you send me a pic of the internal pcb ?
Email: Netplicity1@gmail.com
Do the Martindale again and we'll all have a sip.
Always room for another Martindale!
@@KeepOnTesting unfortunately don't have one.
after measuring 360v voltage in "Auto" mode, it began to work incorrectly.
Not good, it certainly should have been capable of measuring that voltage. Sorry to hear!
try to check R 1K ohm in center of board.
is this good cheap multimeter? compare to aneng an9205a and aneng sz 06 at same price?
I want to buy a cheap multimeter for my DIY projects, I want it to have fast response, but I don't want to spend money on expensive Fluke ones. I have looked at several cheap multimeters review, most of them respond veryslow and delay, even with measuring continuity. Can you give me some advice for cheap multimeter
I gave it 3.5 stars so it can't be bad. SZ06 is a completely different type of multimeter *manual ranging. You can't really compare them.
Does it measure current
No
i want to see that kaiweets ht112b reviewed Darren ive order one but with a different name its TOOLTOP ET8132
It's a coming !!👍
@@KeepOnTesting good job Darren
Hey can u do a review for the pokit multimeter... 😳
I reviewed it 2 years ago. Unfortunately it was a real turd..th-cam.com/video/udO7533F2kU/w-d-xo.html
My Meter trips the power every time I check AC positive to earth on my wall outlet. Works fone posative to negative. Other multimeters I have used don't do this and show the correct voltage. Have you had this issue?
Interesting..first I've heard of this problem. No, mine does not have this issue. Are you using the stock test leads ? If so, try a different pair. These ANENG leads aren't very good. Also, are you sure you didn't have the leads inserted into the amps jack while checking voltage, this could've caused it as well...
@@KeepOnTesting hmmm I will try other leads! Yea I made sure to have them in the correct jack. I've checked at different houses too. To reiterate Its fine when I test voltage from positive to negative on a wall outlet, but when I check positive to earth it trips. I almost feel like asking for a replacement or refund but that feels too petty considering how cheap the item was lol....
😅 No problem, let me know if different test leads make any difference.
@@KeepOnTesting I used some good leads and same story. Bummer! Do you have any recommendations for a cheap meter to replace this one?
@@wisetoad Ah drats..sorry to hear. Thx for the update.
i measured voltage when it was resistor mode( voltage was about 300v) . then . it can not measure the resistance value . always fluctuation . what can i do . is it easy to repair ? . or buying new multimeter ? .thanks in advance
Did you check/replace the fuse? Troubleshooting can be a lot if fun but if time is of the essence you might be better off simply buying a new meter.
@@KeepOnTesting no . other measurements are ok . maybe you are right to buy new one :)
@@mertsamet2953 I 👍 agree! IC may have been compromised.
@@KeepOnTesting i meant i must buy new one . sorry for my bad english :)
@@mertsamet2953 I understand completely..you're English is very 👍 good.
Looks like aneng s1 clone ) with same chinese lottery with NCV
Hi, i need to know a current of fuse. It's 10A250V?
10A/250V correct, sorry looks like I edited the last,part out of the review!
@@KeepOnTesting thank you
Did I miss the current test.... or did you?
Guilty...sorry I omitted current from this review. It had no issues though with both high current and mA. 👍
Can i put outside antenna for that ncv?
Soldered a piece of coiled wire instead of the straight one and NCV is more than twice as sensitive now.
When Uni trend New Multimeter Coming?
More UNI-T reviews are coming ! Dates are TBD
Don't jam it up too much on ncv though, it might break... 😁
Ohhhh yeaaaa! 👍
Hi Darren. Congratulations for your videos, they have a great content. I need your help/advice to buy “the best & cheap” dmm for a beginner/home hobbyist, the main use will be check contact current/voltage, battery voltage, try to repair coffe makers or PC’s or cellphones, or somethings like that. I have my eye on three ones: aneng m118, uni-t ut125c & lomvum t18d or t18e. I can’t expense more than $20 us dollars. I saw all your reviews of available models and i don’t know what to purchase. Thanks in advance for your answer. (Anyone is invited to answer me too)
Update: At home we hace 4 Schnauzer.
4 Schnauzers...Wow! 👍 To pick from your list ...I would choose the LOMVUM T18D. I think it has the best combination of display size, build quality and features! All are good multimeters but you'll be able to do more with the T18D.
BTW, The LOMVUM T18D is identical to the RICHMETERS 113D which I reviewed 2 years ago...th-cam.com/video/b-jZi5_mwvc/w-d-xo.html
@@KeepOnTesting Thanks for the feedback. Do you have any other recomendation according my requirements explained before?
@@misaelcervantes3200 UNI-T UT123 is also another great little multimeter though it doesn't do current nor does it have a diode mode..that may be a deal breaker.
Thks again. It’s a hard choice, i think so i have to raise my budget to $25 usd. In your review the RM113D has a very poor quality (test leads) and the uni-t ut125c get 4.5/5 stars. Why you didn’t recomended it? But the flicker on the screen for the NCV always active is nasty (ut125c)
how do we test continuity with this multimeter?
Press the SELECT button to go into Manual mode and choose continuity (Ω You may see a sound wave symbol placed beside it).
@@KeepOnTesting , thanks. It beeps when I let the two probes touch each other and it reads 0.2 from 0L. And when i hold the two probes there's no reading. Just 0L.
@@commandernoodles2367 Yes that's correct. So if you tested a dead fuse for continuity it would not beep (because fuse is broken). A good fuse will beep because the path has not been broken thus it has continuity.. 👍
I've got my last Week ...
Didn't like it 🙊
It's light, smells Cheap, look's Cheap, Buttons are Cheap, Flimsy Battery Door... Yes it works OK but I gave it my Neighbor and he is Happy 🙈
Roger that, its cheaply fabricated and doesn't pretend to be anything more. Better or for worse, we have been spoiled in the CHEAP-O realm. Cheap doesn't have to mean cheaply executed. Thank goodness for neighbours !
considering the price, the instrument is great !!
@@zorandjokic6523 Yes and it works great , this is why is say "I didn't like it" ... My Neighbor is still happy with it .
You said 3.5, but Ratings on screen show 4.5,
Negative, I just checked and the screen rating correctly shows 3.5 Stars,
Count again. 😀
HOW TO CALIBRATE THIS ??
Unfortunately you can't..it's factory calibrated and there's no user adjustable trim pots on the pcb.
@@KeepOnTesting yeah very anoying when checking voltages of fully charged 18650 they show 4,24 etc lol
@@efdawahfan 3.6V is the norm for a fully charged 18650, do you have another multimeter to compare it with...possibly it was overcharged?
Capacitor test to Slow
Agreed..
When the input is at 3.000V the 100 ohm resistor "R16" in series with the flashlight LED only drops 0.278 mV, meaning less than 3 mA to the LED. Pathetic! No brighter than the backlight, which happens to also have a 100 ohm resistor. The alert LED also is 100 ohm. I changed the flashlight LED dropping resistor to 20 ohms and got 7 mA then tried 10 ohms and got 9 mA, that's where I'll leave it I suppose, seems bright enough.
This works with dry cells or alkaline cells but I wouldn't recommend it with lithium primaries which have too much voltage and would exceed 20 mA with this low of a resistor. However, I found this unit tends to produce errors on the display around 3.5V or above, causing a reboot or freeze.
My unit arrived in the same exact box, no plastic around the device, no screen shield, no band around the leads. The one lead (or as they like to say "pen") had a smashed shroud where it would go into the device, no surprise since it is thin and brittle. Cracked in 3 places, leaving a mark on the front face of the device! Also they seem to be using out the mold on this unit because the cavity is showing signs of wear, horrible texture on the red part, Seems they are nearing end of life.
Shame, it's cute and loveable and acceptably capable, albeit less accurate than most modern DMMs - even the cheapos.
Great 👍 info...I need to do the same as that stock BL is basically useless.Valid point too about the mold..definitely looks sketchy at best. Aneng is really putting a new meaning to the CHEAP-O REALM 😅 I do like the meter too, this could have been a really good buy had they done it right.
Кря кря кря...
Cost wise and functionality..., meh, 3.5 stars... 😀.
Bagaimana tanggapan teman semua untuk produk ini? Apakah ini layak di beli!
A piece of Junk, the LCD screen poor quality don't let you ti use it in a stand position because the number just disappering, measurement are not exact, thrown directly in the garbage.
Accuracy,led testing wow....but capacitance n ncv is a failure....but at that cost good meter. ....
Surprised me that the uF range was so slowww
Its not working at all. Just blinking on and off. I bought 3 of this just return and refunded
Wow.. all 3 were defective??
@@KeepOnTesting opo sa unang lagay ng battery 2nd and third unit sa ibang shops on off na. Buti naman at narsrefund agad.