Thank you Randy for taking the time to talk to me on the phone and making an instruction video that answers all my questions. Always willing to learn something new. Thank you
Over the years I'd always had trouble with the clamp on a bitz hitting on the top. Great tip! Another great tip about rocking the clamp to check for proper fit. Love TAC vanes and had never had issues.
Thanks for the video, it's nice kindly if possible to show another video about the alignments of the straight vanes before glue, Further I would like to ask if the Gnock 4.0mm does it fit on the jig serviver point without free play?
I'm not sure what you meant about the alignments. You will have best results with a helical clamp and you need to adjust it until the vanes and arrows you're fletching will stick. When you prime, glue and stick the vanes down, they will stick in 5 seconds every time. If they are not, it means you need to adjust the jig, to acquire a better seal. G-Nocks fit into the Bitzenburger Nock receiver. However, in the video I'm using a Zenith nock receiver. It holds .166" - .244" and pin nock adapters perfectly centered for the most accurate fletching.
I use a hacksaw and cut the front 1.25" off the clamp. Just cut it 90° to the edge of the clamp (where it holds the vane) and I use a bench grinder to remove the sharp edges and burrs.
When you use a helical clamp on a Bitzenburger jig, there's typically one ideal spot where the vanes will stick the best. Usually it's about 2.5° helical. This works for 99% of applications. We don't recommend straight clamps, with an offset to be used with TAC Vanes.
That depends on your preference. Some prefer RH so there is no counter-twist to their broadheads. Others prefer to clock their arrows and follow the natural rotation of the arrow coming off of the string.
Agreed with Wayne's reply. Some things to consider - Even in slow-mo video, you'll find little-to-no difference between the time the nock leaves the string and when the arrow begins to spin with TAC Vanes. Our vanes will make spin immediately, whether it's right or left helical. ALL other vanes have a longer lag time until it begins to spin. Other consideration is whether your broadhead wants to pull one direction, or the other. Some check their field points and fletch accordingly, but the broadhead may pull the opposite direction.
Let me guess, you think primer pens are a gimmick. I these and can bury my arrow up to the vanes in a target and pull it the rest of the way through without so much as even starting to peel a vane off.
@@TheBowJoe702 nope. I’m not new to this. I used all the correct techniques. They wouldn’t stick and I returned them. I’ve never had a problem with adhesion with any other vane, AAE, Vanetec, Bohning etc. I have new bottles of glue and the primer pen and three premium fletching jigs. Nothing worked. Lancaster gave me a refund and if you read their reviews you will see this is a common problem. I wrongfully assumed they were incompetent just like you are assuming of me.
@@alexjones519 Hey brother, I’m not assuming your incompetent. I don’t know how they won’t stick other than something is up with how they’re being put on. And of course Lancaster will take them back, doesn’t mean the adhesion is bad or they’re admitting tac stuff is junk. My opinion (after shooting bows for 13 years and fletching hundreds and hundreds of arrows) is these vanes are tough and the glue system is legit. You can literally pull the vane apart without the glue coming off. Even while pulling and twisting from the front or back. I’ve shot most of the big name vanes too, and ended up with tac. Lastly, a ton of the highest level champion indoor/outdoor archers use Tac vanes.
@@TheBowJoe702 Ten 4. That’s cool. I’m disappointed that my vanes would not adhere. I liked them. I tried everything. Unfortunately I have to use something else. I’m not saying they are junk. I’m saying I had a frustrating experience.
I recommend cutting 1.25" from the point-end of the clamp. That's enough to prevent interference on the front end. That will also leave a spot for your finger to apply pressure as you're fletching.
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Thank you Randy for taking the time to talk to me on the phone and making an instruction video that answers all my questions. Always willing to learn something new. Thank you
Over the years I'd always had trouble with the clamp on a bitz hitting on the top. Great tip! Another great tip about rocking the clamp to check for proper fit. Love TAC vanes and had never had issues.
I run a straight clamp with a left off set and never have a problem with the 2.75 tac drivers.
Great simple video!
Thank you
You need the Cali-Bitz decal to know what degree you’re fletching at. 👍🙏🏹
Thanks for the video, it's nice kindly if possible to show another video about the alignments of the straight vanes before glue,
Further I would like to ask if the Gnock 4.0mm does it fit on the jig serviver point without free play?
I'm not sure what you meant about the alignments. You will have best results with a helical clamp and you need to adjust it until the vanes and arrows you're fletching will stick. When you prime, glue and stick the vanes down, they will stick in 5 seconds every time. If they are not, it means you need to adjust the jig, to acquire a better seal. G-Nocks fit into the Bitzenburger Nock receiver. However, in the video I'm using a Zenith nock receiver. It holds .166" - .244" and pin nock adapters perfectly centered for the most accurate fletching.
Trim the end of the jig. That makes so much sense. I've been running into the issue of it catching. Why would they be that way to begin with? Thanks!
What did you use to trim the edge of the bitz?
@@johnjakobsen3969 I used a hacksaw and then smoothed it with some 80 grit sandpaper. Worked fine.
Could you do a video on how you chop off the clamp?
I use a hacksaw and cut the front 1.25" off the clamp. Just cut it 90° to the edge of the clamp (where it holds the vane) and I use a bench grinder to remove the sharp edges and burrs.
Is it okay to have to readjust offset on each vane? I'm not getting the same contact with the same off set on my second van.
How many degrees of offset do you recommend?
When you use a helical clamp on a Bitzenburger jig, there's typically one ideal spot where the vanes will stick the best. Usually it's about 2.5° helical. This works for 99% of applications. We don't recommend straight clamps, with an offset to be used with TAC Vanes.
What did you use to chop off part of the bitz clamp?
A hacksaw will chop it off quickly and easy. Then clean it up with a wire wheel to de-burr the edges.
Is this true for a 2.25 vane with a PS23 arrow?
Hello, yes the fletching process is exactly the same with all of our vane models. Same instructions for fletching to any carbon arrow as well.
Right or left Helical?
That depends on your preference. Some prefer RH so there is no counter-twist to their broadheads.
Others prefer to clock their arrows and follow the natural rotation of the arrow coming off of the string.
Agreed with Wayne's reply. Some things to consider - Even in slow-mo video, you'll find little-to-no difference between the time the nock leaves the string and when the arrow begins to spin with TAC Vanes. Our vanes will make spin immediately, whether it's right or left helical. ALL other vanes have a longer lag time until it begins to spin.
Other consideration is whether your broadhead wants to pull one direction, or the other. Some check their field points and fletch accordingly, but the broadhead may pull the opposite direction.
The best way to deal with Tac vanes is not to fletch them. Use something that actually sticks to the arrow instead.
Let me guess, you think primer pens are a gimmick. I these and can bury my arrow up to the vanes in a target and pull it the rest of the way through without so much as even starting to peel a vane off.
@@TheBowJoe702 nope. I’m not new to this. I used all the correct techniques. They wouldn’t stick and I returned them. I’ve never had a problem with adhesion with any other vane, AAE, Vanetec, Bohning etc. I have new bottles of glue and the primer pen and three premium fletching jigs. Nothing worked. Lancaster gave me a refund and if you read their reviews you will see this is a common problem. I wrongfully assumed they were incompetent just like you are assuming of me.
@@alexjones519 Hey brother, I’m not assuming your incompetent. I don’t know how they won’t stick other than something is up with how they’re being put on. And of course Lancaster will take them back, doesn’t mean the adhesion is bad or they’re admitting tac stuff is junk. My opinion (after shooting bows for 13 years and fletching hundreds and hundreds of arrows) is these vanes are tough and the glue system is legit. You can literally pull the vane apart without the glue coming off. Even while pulling and twisting from the front or back. I’ve shot most of the big name vanes too, and ended up with tac. Lastly, a ton of the highest level champion indoor/outdoor archers use Tac vanes.
@@TheBowJoe702 Ten 4. That’s cool. I’m disappointed that my vanes would not adhere. I liked them. I tried everything. Unfortunately I have to use something else. I’m not saying they are junk. I’m saying I had a frustrating experience.
Had had issues with the Tac vane glue. glueSwitched to gorilla glue solved the problem!
Gr8 info! fletch - on. 👊
How much do you cut off the clamp?
I recommend cutting 1.25" from the point-end of the clamp. That's enough to prevent interference on the front end. That will also leave a spot for your finger to apply pressure as you're fletching.