In your area, not putting concrete with wood post maybe be a norm. 40 years of carpentry has taught me that there are different specs for different parts of the country. Not all products and practices are compatible with all regions. I recently removed a 35 year old fence to install new vinyl privacy fence, pressure treated post down 36" plus 2" gravel in concrete (domed above grade) in the northeast. Every single post that had accumulated soil over the top of the concrete for the past 35 years rotted at the base. The ones that the concrete was still above grade were still intact and solid. Had to use heavy machinery to pull them out. And yes, the gravel for the most part was not saturated with surrounding soil and bottom of post not rotted either. Depending on soil conditions and region, we need the concrete to keep the post from heaving upward during the freeze thaw cycles we have. In addition, to keep the fence post secure from lateral movement. Eventually, most woods will rot. It's the precautions taken to extend the life span of the product, not shorten it. The only instance I don't recommend wood in concrete are for deck structural posts. Decades ago it was the cheap and quick norm. Homeowners afterwards would landscape around the post and they would rot. Now we pour concrete and use steel anchor post base to prevent that. Either way, great content. However, consideration for the different regions in the country need to be thought of in your professional opinions in videos. Thank you.
The crowning thing is there mostly to prevent the inverse, concave top. A top that holds water will certainly rot and fast. If you don’t intentionally crown it’s pretty likely you have done the opposite. Additionally the concrete isn’t there to prevent rot. It’s there to add weight to the bottom of the fence and make it less like to tip. I don’t know about the fence armor stuff. I agree it’s too new but it makes some intuitive sense. I think her main point in mentioning the other options was not as a suggestion but just to showcase how much easier the fence armor is. It’s a commercial so take it for what it’s worth.
I removed southern yellow pine posts that I can confirm were in the ground for 55 years. The posts were part of a pig pen and soaked in diesel/motor oil ahead of installation. The posts were in such good shape I reused them as line posts in a row of Concord grapes. I reinstalled upside down, thinking I was being clever. After 5 years the first post rotted through at ground level.
Well old fence 15 years in soil all rotten out changed it to cement put some on the bottom then put around it trowled a slight angle its been 20 years still solid. We did paint the posts on the bottom and sides before it went into the hole and painted above the ground. A simply layer of paint has kept it good for years. When im doing a fence im going to dig a hole use rebar in a T shape dump cement into the hole then add a sono tube to the surface then put in a 4x4 anchor then i can just bolt a new post on if needed. It will be solid as they do the samething for houses we sloped water away slightly so it wont pool agianst the post
We were replacing an old wooden fence the homeowner says was there when he bought the house 3 years ago. It looked like the typical rotted grey wood fence. When we were removing the fence, the posts were surprisingly solid. Whoever installed this fence put post savers on them and every wood post we pulled out was not rotted. Idk who built it, but they did a very good job as the wood posts were clearly very old, but still pretty solid.
The moisture in concrete does not seem to be enough to rot post alone. Excess moisture getting in-between the post and concrete causes the rot in my opinion. If you can get your concrete to the top, i believe crowning it is very fruitful
This is so funny. I was reading the PostMaster instructions yesterday, and even they suggest crowning the concrete surrounding their galvanized metal posts. I don't think that's really going to do anything. I am building a 245 foot pine fence with PostMaster posts, thanks to your guys' instructional videos. Thanks for all the tips you have provided!
It’s the same false narrative we’ve been getting for years with pruning plants too. They say prune at a 45 degree angle to weep water away. It does nothing…it just goes to show people believe in a lot of wives tales because someone thought it a cleaver narrative.
i'M GLAD YOU CALLED OUT APRIL'S VID. A LOT OF HER VIDS ARE FRUSTRATING AT LEAST TO ME BECAUSE THEY'RE PRESENTED IN SUCH A WAY WHERE SHE SEEMS TO BE AN EXPERT...WHEN ALL THEY REALLY ARE, ESPECIALLY LATELY ARE COMMERCIALS FOR "INSERT PRODUCT SPONSOR HERE".
Good morning, Mark. I just saw this video yesterday; excellent work. Regarding the Fence Armor Rot Barrier sleeves (Postsaver) you mentioned, they've conducted thorough testing and have had posts using this method since 1994. Two versions are available: a 20-year version, as shown in your video, and a 40-year version. Unlike other rot protection methods, these come with a warranty of 20 and 40 years. I also agree with your comments about using gravel at the bottom of the post. It could be beneficial if the porosity of the soil is higher than that of the gravel, although this isn’t typically the case.
Live in Texas and built my own fence. I have ti say the treated wood with concrete hasn't given signs of rotting. I dug about 2.5 ft with those handy post hole diggers and filled it up half way with concrete. There is a hole that I left unfilled and grass has taken it over on top. I pulled out all the grass to reveal the post and everything is OK. Thank God. I'm wondering since the water can just flow away and no puddle form I guess. Not to sure. But it's working.
I like your no dig posts, as aluminum wont rot. Watching your vids. They seem like a good idea in places that don't get alot of wind. If you can lean on them to line them up after they are set.. i would think the fence would not be standing straight for long in a wind event, or windy environment. We crown cement just so the post dosnt sit in a low spot that holds water. And use sealer on crosscuts that are exposed, that have no protection. Have learned some things from you guys.. Thank You for the vids..
Concrete holds moisture :). PostMaster posts or no fence!! If I have to lay a post it would be above ground on a steel brace screwed down to a concrete pier. 😂. But but…to be fair April lives in the desert…water isn’t an issue for her.
I didn't see anybody ask. I was wondering about putting tar on the post before installing it. Sorry if this seems like a stupid question. I've seen this done before.
Great video hit everything on the head we see it all the time on specs to add gravel at bottom of hole all the time and totally agree some engineer back in the day on shrooms 😂
In Texas we use a lot of old 2" drill pipe to build fences. I wish I knew a better way to make saddles in pipe posts for pipe top rails. Right now, I use a chop saw with a metal cutting blade.
Another great video so true everything y'all said. when the power company puts poles in they don't do that crap. I've been on jobs with the Army corps of engineer they really do some stupid stuff they just like spending or tax dollars. You all have a wonder Christmas and stay safe. what about making a yard Christmas tree decoration out of chain link it will never wear out lol. you all take care.
How do you guys handle the harsh winters in Wyoming ? Do you work right thru the winter or call it quits when it gets too bad and lay crews off? We are in MA and the winters are so much slower than other seasons due to weather and hard to keep my 50 employees busy. Keep up the good work
I have some treated 8x8 posts I’m using for a 16’ tube gate. Will tamping the dirt be fine for hanging this gate? 30” is my frost line so I planned on digging 36”. I assume I dig the same depth regardless of using concrete or not. Bought concrete but now I’m skeptical on using it if I don’t get at least 10 years out of it. Thanks
As long as you are diligent and compacting the soild really well, it will be fine. Failure to compact the soil will ultimately result in a leaning post and a sagging gate. Using concrete removes the worry of proper compaction, but concrete will absolutely rot the post out faster.
Question. Everything. And this doesn't just apply to fenceposts. I was taking an upper level course at UW, got an internship at WYG&F. The instructor asked me "what's the first thing you're going to ask your supervisor at G&F?" He kinda chuckled when I replied "when's lunch" but he said no. Ask how to dial out (pre-web days) You need to be able to get your own information. That's the only thing I remember about college...😁
@@SWiFence The only time I used cement 100% of the time was with vinyl posts in Florida sand. Otherwise the high wind storms could slick them right out plus they don't rot anyway. All I do is drill a few good size holes so cement locks into it but I leave the bottom open so water drains.
In the San Francisco Bay Area (where I live), wood posts in concrete is all that's used by most professionals, unless it's a chainlink fence. I am one of the rare residents that has lived in the same house over 40 years and in that time the fence line has had to be repaired twice. Most people stay in the same house between 5 and 10 years. If the posts don't last longer than that, it's irrelevant to them.
What if one wrapped the post is a corrugated metal like aluminum or stainless or galvanized . The corrugated metal would resemble the inner layer of cardboard but made of metal. This would keep dirt and concrete away from the post. Might live longer.
There’s a saying, from some guy on “Successful Contractor”, There’s no such thing as common sense, there’s superior sense and nonsense. You guys might know him, he’s pretty cool.
CompactaPost works by compressing the soil around the post so it doesn't require any deep holes or Concrete. It also encases the Post in Galvanized Steel taking rotting almost completely out of the equation!!!
I used cement to make it easier to use my weedeater. I wrapped the posts with butyl tape and then galvanized roll flashing - again - to protect from that big gas powered termite. 4 inches above and down to the bottom of the posts. I used the 4 to 5 inch diameter, 8 ft peeler cores when I put the fence in the ground in 1998 for our horse pastures. Last year when I took the fence down, there was only one post that didn't make it. That was almost 25 years. Of course, that's not a scientific test, just my experience.
I bought a tract home when I got divorced. The wood fence was all landscape timbers for posts set in concrete. I wish nothing but bad things to whoever did that. I’ve dug out and jacked out so many concrete slugs. They didn’t last 10 years.
Your links to putting in a "cedar" fence imply that the posts are cedar, so it is a "duh" moment as the posts are metal, duh , won't rot but "rust" depends. What about expense? Link to a site that compares price and "duh" is there are way to put in wood posts sans concrete or metal?
The gravel at the bottom of the hole never made sense as the water level would have to be below the deepest part of the hole or the post and the gravel would be sitting in water anyway.
What are your thoughts on charring wood and then putting it in concrete? The reason I ask is because I live in a place that’s full of clay soil and a lot of rain. Six months or more of the year. And everybody wants concrete on their posts here, so I’m always looking for ideas because they want wood as well.
Ok you guys are not wrong about using galv steel over wood. Now, the size of the wood post makes a big difference. Do the power companies replace post every ten years ?? No. You dont get it with the stones. The dirt doesnt touch the bottom of the post. I use huge wood post 8inch or bigger. Yes concrete is not needed. Your wrong about domeing concrete. Most heavy water stays at ground level and below. I hate people that do everything inside the box you are making me think of the best way to slow down possible rot. Possible. Yes galv has no rot.
I'm not sure how you don't get the concept of gravel Take a very large clear or opaque container and pack completely with dirt versus gravel on bottom and then dirt. Drill holes in bottom and see which one drains faster. Pots for plants would be a simple thought experiment. It's worrisome at 2:51 you're not understanding a basic fact. Drainage has been designed this way not buy some rando shroomed guy but for thousands of years. Water doesn't miraculously stay at the top of soil it flows downward and the larger the spaces below the faster it drains. Thats why dirt with sand on bottom drains faster And dirt with gravel drains faster srill And dirt with river rock faster still Yikes
I worked for a fence company in Pennsylvania for a year and half and from what i have see first hand is that the torch causes the wood underneath the tar to almost dry rot and become brittle within a years time. Its not worth the money. My boss lived by this stuff like a snake oil salesman to sell you some magic beans
Imagine if the rocks actually, magically, drained all the moisture away...have you ever seen "sugar sand"? It's what dirt looks like when you take all the moisture away. Not a very solid foundation for keeping things tight.
1:04 "concrete and wood do not mix"... scrolls back a few videos to SWI Fence setting a wood post in concrete: th-cam.com/video/M-fVT-tfjWI/w-d-xo.html ... So which is it?
Hey! That's a pretty good eye. 👍🏻 If you'd watched the end of the wood post video you'd already know the answer: th-cam.com/video/M-fVT-tfjWI/w-d-xo.html
I see u guys have never been to Japan to see how they put wood in the ground 1st they only use very hard wood 2nd they char to part of the post that will go in the ground and even up to a food above ground by doing these two things their post can last as many as 100 yr but most give up after 5o to 70 yr Why is this? b/c first hard wood decomposes a lot slower then a soft wood 2nd the charring of the wood make it almost impervious to decomposition for many yrs Dont know the chem process that it goes thorough when charred but they have been doing this for over 3000 yr I dont know why u young white boys cant learn form ppl of other ethnicities'. get out AND DO SOME WORLD TRAVELING AND SEE HOW OTHERS HAVE ALREADY SOLVED MOST OF UR PROBLEMS
For reference, Shou Sugi Ban, for a fence contractor would be beyond cost prohibiting. It is a great way of treating wood, however the time involved with this process very few customers would pay for it compared to a steel post or simply wood without concrete.
@@rogerbettencourt9654 1st steel post are not biodegradable and in 50 or so yrs will rust out dont go to plastic post for they are even more harmful to the environment then steel post and will slowly leach chem into soil Now on to how long it takes to char a post and thus how much labor value is added by doing so Pay someone $20/hr to do it. takes about 4 min to char a post over a good hot fire so u have added $0.66/post At $20 or more/post that is less then 3% to the cost of a post not that much. How do I know this? I have done it to over 6000 post in the last 30 yr Bty have not had to replace even one so far So money is not an issue here the issue is contractors wanting to use thing that will Deteriorate fast so as to have more business Put up a fence that will last only 10 or 20 yr as opposed to putting up one that will last 50 or more yr The idea of planed Decomposition (or planned obsolescence) is just wrong Anything u build should out live U by many years It was rich ppl who came up with the idea to make more money
@@user-zk4vi5hw6x , I can’t argue with your overall sentiment regarding money, we may differ on some environmental factors, however not all. Well said.
You're making assumptions on your statement. How do you know they don't travel and learn from others? And by integrating race into your comments, you're creating division. Be part of the solution, not the problem.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | ครอบครัวสะท้านทุ่ง "นางบี & อ้ายสติ๊ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A1rhYcxxNtA/mqdefault.jpg)
![ภาพนี้ก็ฮาเหมือนกันนะเนี้ย #2 SS8 [ พากย์นรก MEME.EXE ] | easy boy](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RMhUgxxD49Q/mqdefault.jpg)
In your area, not putting concrete with wood post maybe be a norm. 40 years of carpentry has taught me that there are different specs for different parts of the country. Not all products and practices are compatible with all regions. I recently removed a 35 year old fence to install new vinyl privacy fence, pressure treated post down 36" plus 2" gravel in concrete (domed above grade) in the northeast. Every single post that had accumulated soil over the top of the concrete for the past 35 years rotted at the base. The ones that the concrete was still above grade were still intact and solid. Had to use heavy machinery to pull them out. And yes, the gravel for the most part was not saturated with surrounding soil and bottom of post not rotted either.
Depending on soil conditions and region, we need the concrete to keep the post from heaving upward during the freeze thaw cycles we have. In addition, to keep the fence post secure from lateral movement. Eventually, most woods will rot. It's the precautions taken to extend the life span of the product, not shorten it.
The only instance I don't recommend wood in concrete are for deck structural posts. Decades ago it was the cheap and quick norm. Homeowners afterwards would landscape around the post and they would rot. Now we pour concrete and use steel anchor post base to prevent that.
Either way, great content. However, consideration for the different regions in the country need to be thought of in your professional opinions in videos. Thank you.
The crowning thing is there mostly to prevent the inverse, concave top. A top that holds water will certainly rot and fast. If you don’t intentionally crown it’s pretty likely you have done the opposite.
Additionally the concrete isn’t there to prevent rot. It’s there to add weight to the bottom of the fence and make it less like to tip.
I don’t know about the fence armor stuff. I agree it’s too new but it makes some intuitive sense.
I think her main point in mentioning the other options was not as a suggestion but just to showcase how much easier the fence armor is. It’s a commercial so take it for what it’s worth.
I removed southern yellow pine posts that I can confirm were in the ground for 55 years. The posts were part of a pig pen and soaked in diesel/motor oil ahead of installation. The posts were in such good shape I reused them as line posts in a row of Concord grapes. I reinstalled upside down, thinking I was being clever. After 5 years the first post rotted through at ground level.
Great to know thanks😊
Don't believe this one bit. Bit till project farm proves it. Motor oil sounds terrible for wood.
Well old fence 15 years in soil all rotten out changed it to cement put some on the bottom then put around it trowled a slight angle its been 20 years still solid. We did paint the posts on the bottom and sides before it went into the hole and painted above the ground. A simply layer of paint has kept it good for years. When im doing a fence im going to dig a hole use rebar in a T shape dump cement into the hole then add a sono tube to the surface then put in a 4x4 anchor then i can just bolt a new post on if needed. It will be solid as they do the samething for houses we sloped water away slightly so it wont pool agianst the post
We were replacing an old wooden fence the homeowner says was there when he bought the house 3 years ago. It looked like the typical rotted grey wood fence. When we were removing the fence, the posts were surprisingly solid. Whoever installed this fence put post savers on them and every wood post we pulled out was not rotted. Idk who built it, but they did a very good job as the wood posts were clearly very old, but still pretty solid.
There you go!
The moisture in concrete does not seem to be enough to rot post alone.
Excess moisture getting in-between the post and concrete causes the rot in my opinion.
If you can get your concrete to the top, i believe crowning it is very fruitful
This is so funny. I was reading the PostMaster instructions yesterday, and even they suggest crowning the concrete surrounding their galvanized metal posts. I don't think that's really going to do anything. I am building a 245 foot pine fence with PostMaster posts, thanks to your guys' instructional videos. Thanks for all the tips you have provided!
It’s the same false narrative we’ve been getting for years with pruning plants too. They say prune at a 45 degree angle to weep water away. It does nothing…it just goes to show people believe in a lot of wives tales because someone thought it a cleaver narrative.
Crowning the concrete definitely does something--it extends the lifespan of the post.
i'M GLAD YOU CALLED OUT APRIL'S VID. A LOT OF HER VIDS ARE FRUSTRATING AT LEAST TO ME BECAUSE THEY'RE PRESENTED IN SUCH A WAY WHERE SHE SEEMS TO BE AN EXPERT...WHEN ALL THEY REALLY ARE, ESPECIALLY LATELY ARE COMMERCIALS FOR "INSERT PRODUCT SPONSOR HERE".
Learn to use lower AND upper case letters. Thanks
@@detroyt232323 NO 👎
In most of her videos, she doesn't claim to be an expert, she usually says she's the opposite.
@@5stardave then she shouldn't be posting videos of her trying to teach people to do things with unproven methods.
@@detroyt232323 she is showing her journey using proven methods that she has researched.
Good morning, Mark. I just saw this video yesterday; excellent work.
Regarding the Fence Armor Rot Barrier sleeves (Postsaver) you mentioned, they've conducted thorough testing and have had posts using this method since 1994. Two versions are available: a 20-year version, as shown in your video, and a 40-year version. Unlike other rot protection methods, these come with a warranty of 20 and 40 years.
I also agree with your comments about using gravel at the bottom of the post. It could be beneficial if the porosity of the soil is higher than that of the gravel, although this isn’t typically the case.
Live in Texas and built my own fence. I have ti say the treated wood with concrete hasn't given signs of rotting. I dug about 2.5 ft with those handy post hole diggers and filled it up half way with concrete. There is a hole that I left unfilled and grass has taken it over on top. I pulled out all the grass to reveal the post and everything is OK. Thank God. I'm wondering since the water can just flow away and no puddle form I guess. Not to sure. But it's working.
I like your no dig posts, as aluminum wont rot. Watching your vids. They seem like a good idea in places that don't get alot of wind. If you can lean on them to line them up after they are set.. i would think the fence would not be standing straight for long in a wind event, or windy environment. We crown cement just so the post dosnt sit in a low spot that holds water. And use sealer on crosscuts that are exposed, that have no protection. Have learned some things from you guys.. Thank You for the vids..
I really hate people that think they know everything and yes I'm talking about the two doing this "podcast".
You do ? That's a man for ya😅
Concrete holds moisture :). PostMaster posts or no fence!! If I have to lay a post it would be above ground on a steel brace screwed down to a concrete pier. 😂. But but…to be fair April lives in the desert…water isn’t an issue for her.
I didn't see anybody ask. I was wondering about putting tar on the post before installing it. Sorry if this seems like a stupid question. I've seen this done before.
Great video hit everything on the head we see it all the time on specs to add gravel at bottom of hole all the time and totally agree some engineer back in the day on shrooms 😂
In Texas we use a lot of old 2" drill pipe to build fences. I wish I knew a better way to make saddles in pipe posts for pipe top rails. Right now, I use a chop saw with a metal cutting blade.
Have you tried a bandsaw? This guy seems to have a workable method: th-cam.com/video/OtrP8-eJlcA/w-d-xo.html
Another great video so true everything y'all said. when the power company puts poles in they don't do that crap. I've been on jobs with the Army corps of engineer they really do some stupid stuff they just like spending or tax dollars. You all have a wonder Christmas and stay safe. what about making a yard Christmas tree decoration out of chain link it will never wear out lol. you all take care.
How do you guys handle the harsh winters in Wyoming ? Do you work right thru the winter or call it quits when it gets too bad and lay crews off? We are in MA and the winters are so much slower than other seasons due to weather and hard to keep my 50 employees busy. Keep up the good work
I have some treated 8x8 posts I’m using for a 16’ tube gate. Will tamping the dirt be fine for hanging this gate? 30” is my frost line so I planned on digging 36”. I assume I dig the same depth regardless of using concrete or not. Bought concrete but now I’m skeptical on using it if I don’t get at least 10 years out of it. Thanks
As long as you are diligent and compacting the soild really well, it will be fine. Failure to compact the soil will ultimately result in a leaning post and a sagging gate. Using concrete removes the worry of proper compaction, but concrete will absolutely rot the post out faster.
Hey Mark, does your Florida website have a place to order items like donuts & plates?
I only see that on the Wyoming site.
No, we do all sales and shipping from www.swifence.com
I’ve done gravel at the bottom with post in concrete, no rot after 15 years
I'm testing this gravel theory here in a couple of weeks.
Question. Everything.
And this doesn't just apply to fenceposts.
I was taking an upper level course at UW, got an internship at WYG&F. The instructor asked me "what's the first thing you're going to ask your supervisor at G&F?" He kinda chuckled when I replied "when's lunch" but he said no. Ask how to dial out (pre-web days) You need to be able to get your own information.
That's the only thing I remember about college...😁
UW like University of WA? If so then I have one thing to say to you....Go COUGS!
@@chandracox6814 🤣🤣🤣 I meant university of Wyoming, but yea, GO COUGS!!
35 years later I pulled out cedar logs I used as fence posts. No cement, gravel, tar etc. Good as new.
I'm with you. If you're going to put wood in the ground, don't use concrete.
@@SWiFence The only time I used cement 100% of the time was with vinyl posts in Florida sand. Otherwise the high wind storms could slick them right out plus they don't rot anyway. All I do is drill a few good size holes so cement locks into it but I leave the bottom open so water drains.
In the San Francisco Bay Area (where I live), wood posts in concrete is all that's used by most professionals, unless it's a chainlink fence. I am one of the rare residents that has lived in the same house over 40 years and in that time the fence line has had to be repaired twice. Most people stay in the same house between 5 and 10 years. If the posts don't last longer than that, it's irrelevant to them.
What if one wrapped the post is a corrugated metal like aluminum or stainless or galvanized . The corrugated metal would resemble the inner layer of cardboard but made of metal. This would keep dirt and concrete away from the post. Might live longer.
There’s a saying, from some guy on “Successful Contractor”, There’s no such thing as common sense, there’s superior sense and nonsense. You guys might know him, he’s pretty cool.
I know that guy! He's got a big head though...
CompactaPost works by compressing the soil around the post so it doesn't require any deep holes or Concrete. It also encases the Post in Galvanized Steel taking rotting almost completely out of the equation!!!
crowning works for gal posts just saying
I submerge posts in Blue Stone before putting them in the ground
I used cement to make it easier to use my weedeater. I wrapped the posts with butyl tape and then galvanized roll flashing - again - to protect from that big gas powered termite. 4 inches above and down to the bottom of the posts. I used the 4 to 5 inch diameter, 8 ft peeler cores when I put the fence in the ground in 1998 for our horse pastures. Last year when I took the fence down, there was only one post that didn't make it. That was almost 25 years. Of course, that's not a scientific test, just my experience.
Are the peeler cores the rolls of galvanized flashing? Thanks for posting.
@@nobrizzle Hi, no, they're the center of logs that were actually 'peeled'. I think mostly for use in making plywood.
I bought a tract home when I got divorced. The wood fence was all landscape timbers for posts set in concrete. I wish nothing but bad things to whoever did that. I’ve dug out and jacked out so many concrete slugs. They didn’t last 10 years.
Your links to putting in a "cedar" fence imply that the posts are cedar, so it is a "duh" moment as the posts are metal, duh , won't rot but "rust" depends. What about expense? Link to a site that compares price and "duh" is there are way to put in wood posts sans concrete or metal?
The gravel at the bottom of the hole never made sense as the water level would have to be below the deepest part of the hole or the post and the gravel would be sitting in water anyway.
What are your thoughts on charring wood and then putting it in concrete? The reason I ask is because I live in a place that’s full of clay soil and a lot of rain. Six months or more of the year. And everybody wants concrete on their posts here, so I’m always looking for ideas because they want wood as well.
Ok you guys are not wrong about using galv steel over wood. Now, the size of the wood post makes a big difference. Do the power companies replace post every ten years ?? No. You dont get it with the stones. The dirt doesnt touch the bottom of the post. I use huge wood post 8inch or bigger. Yes concrete is not needed. Your wrong about domeing concrete. Most heavy water stays at ground level and below. I hate people that do everything inside the box you are making me think of the best way to slow down possible rot. Possible. Yes galv has no rot.
awwww.... you trashed April...good for you! :~)
We love April! We just have opinions sometimes.
I used postsaver sleeves and concrete for my build. No concrete touched the wood.
I'm not sure how you don't get the concept of gravel
Take a very large clear or opaque container and pack completely with dirt versus gravel on bottom and then dirt. Drill holes in bottom and see which one drains faster.
Pots for plants would be a simple thought experiment.
It's worrisome at 2:51 you're not understanding a basic fact.
Drainage has been designed this way not buy some rando shroomed guy but for thousands of years.
Water doesn't miraculously stay at the top of soil it flows downward and the larger the spaces below the faster it drains.
Thats why dirt with sand on bottom drains faster
And dirt with gravel drains faster srill
And dirt with river rock faster still
Yikes
I worked for a fence company in Pennsylvania for a year and half and from what i have see first hand is that the torch causes the wood underneath the tar to almost dry rot and become brittle within a years time. Its not worth the money. My boss lived by this stuff like a snake oil salesman to sell you some magic beans
The post where 4x4 pressure treated lumber** line posts, corner posts and even cedar split rail posts.
That's interesting! We've never tried it.
Imagine if the rocks actually, magically, drained all the moisture away...have you ever seen "sugar sand"? It's what dirt looks like when you take all the moisture away. Not a very solid foundation for keeping things tight.
Honestly? I don't watch April Wilkerson for her building techniques. 😈
Nice to hear sht from mofos that ACTUALLY came up in the trades. ✊️
post saver guaranteed a product for 20 years hand free replacement with post
🤷
1:04 "concrete and wood do not mix"... scrolls back a few videos to SWI Fence setting a wood post in concrete: th-cam.com/video/M-fVT-tfjWI/w-d-xo.html ... So which is it?
Hey! That's a pretty good eye. 👍🏻 If you'd watched the end of the wood post video you'd already know the answer: th-cam.com/video/M-fVT-tfjWI/w-d-xo.html
@@SWiFence Like you say, wood is what I'm working with... RR ties specifically. Appreciate your videos!
I see u guys have never been to Japan to see how they put wood in the ground
1st they only use very hard wood
2nd they char to part of the post that will go in the ground and even up to a food above ground
by doing these two things their post can last as many as 100 yr but most give up after 5o to 70 yr
Why is this?
b/c first hard wood decomposes a lot slower then a soft wood
2nd the charring of the wood make it almost impervious to decomposition for many yrs
Dont know the chem process that it goes thorough when charred but they have been doing this for over 3000 yr
I dont know why u young white boys cant learn form ppl of other ethnicities'.
get out AND DO SOME WORLD TRAVELING AND SEE HOW OTHERS HAVE ALREADY SOLVED MOST OF UR PROBLEMS
For reference, Shou Sugi Ban, for a fence contractor would be beyond cost prohibiting. It is a great way of treating wood, however the time involved with this process very few customers would pay for it compared to a steel post or simply wood without concrete.
@@rogerbettencourt9654 1st steel post are not biodegradable and in 50 or so yrs will rust out
dont go to plastic post for they are even more harmful to the environment then steel post and will slowly leach chem into soil
Now on to how long it takes to char a post and thus how much labor value is added by doing so
Pay someone $20/hr to do it.
takes about 4 min to char a post over a good hot fire so u have added $0.66/post
At $20 or more/post that is less then 3% to the cost of a post not that much.
How do I know this? I have done it to over 6000 post in the last 30 yr
Bty have not had to replace even one so far
So money is not an issue here
the issue is contractors wanting to use thing that will Deteriorate fast so as to have more business
Put up a fence that will last only 10 or 20 yr as opposed to putting up one that will last 50 or more yr
The idea of planed Decomposition (or planned obsolescence) is just wrong
Anything u build should out live U by many years
It was rich ppl who came up with the idea to make more money
@@user-zk4vi5hw6x
Can you char are pressure treated post?
@@user-zk4vi5hw6x , I can’t argue with your overall sentiment regarding money, we may differ on some environmental factors, however not all.
Well said.
You're making assumptions on your statement. How do you know they don't travel and learn from others?
And by integrating race into your comments, you're creating division. Be part of the solution, not the problem.
So can you or can’t you stop it? A lot of rambling but you didn’t ever answer the question BRO’s…
We don't think you can.
I’ve never understood the gravel at the bottom theory. It makes zero sense.