so as someone who went to college for agriculture when you start to dial up the lights around 1000 or more ppfd the only way it will harm the plants is if they are too close to the lights you always wanna stay 11 in. or more away to be safe. the big issue people have is that when you have higher intensity light the plant is breathing and uptaking more nutrients so you can get fertilizer burn. you have to keep that vpd at those precise numbers as well. you typically dont need to add much c02 till around 800 ppfd. they have done studies where they have gotten the plant at 60 DLI.
As a dairy farmer. You'd be surprised how important light is. Winter, autumn and summer suck. Spring weather is the best. We have to much grass. Weeds the same.
that sort of strategy seems to work best with leafy crops.... once you start to grow heartier crops with more depth you really have to run the leds closer to 100% to give the plant the dli it needs for it's metabolic processes, under canopy growth and fruit....basically, you are working harder to find the balance between not burning the top of the plant while trying to feed the entire plant with light....... unlike a flat of leaf lettuce who's fruit is it's leaf and everything grows to one height, and you only need light penetration depth of a few inches....k.
Hi! It's just common sense...mimic how it is done outdoor...22nd of June is the longest day and plants switch to flowering early mid August...so flowering happen when the sun have less intensity and duration...just logical
Hi! It's just common sense...mimic how it is done outdoor...22nd of June is the longest day and plants switch to flowering early mid August...so flowering happen when the sun have less intensity and duration...just logical
Less is more ????? Your mental . Try growing a pound in a 4x2 with a 100wled . Whereas I put the sp250 in there and it's happy days . Stick that 100 in as side lighting and watch those foxtail explode out the buds .
This is something I got right by mistake (new Grower) My budget to start was one 100w led for four plants. a few paychecks later (autoflowers flowering now) I have a total of 350w planning on adding another 150w in a week or so.
@@loganleborgne420 We can improve on what happens in nature. The plants we grow would of evolved to some degree by now.Try treating an ancient landrace strain like you do these and I guess most of them wouldn't be too happy for one reason or another.
wow I bruned the hell out of plants with HEAT from HPS back in the day. So you saying LEd can burn with light. WOW. Its so advanced now. Ive been under a rock for 20 years
If you keep your leaf temps below 86°f , you can hammer them with light without the need of c02. I can push my plants with close to 60dli from flip to harvest as long as the leaf temps stay close to 80°(78° being ideal) but your VPD has to be spot on. There's a study that was published by the NIH a few years back where they could run 2000+ ppfd with no need for c02 due to keeping leaf temps ideal. I've been doing that since and my yields ,bud density , and trich coverage went through the roof. Lol.
I firmly believe that but my light isn't going to go beyond 1000 PPFD but if it did I would do the same thing keep everything cool and fans blowing and crank the lights up.
@@rudolf895 Here's the study that explains everything. Give it a read. I do suggest taking intermittent breaks while doing so 😂 www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8144505/
they key and ive tried everything is to let your plants grow up into the light vs dimming.. get your plants as far away as possible from the light without them stretching , "but leave some room to move up the lights for stretch" and as they get older/taller they need more light which is perfect bcuz as it gets taller it gets closer to the light so its a ying and yang scenario.. just before flowering move lights up 5-10 inches and they will stretch into the lights perfectly!
I havs been having really good success with my hlg 350r's above and 100 watt lead bars on the sides. When looking at the bud you can tell what side the side lighting was on. The buds bulk out more on the sides with ligjts
scotty!! I got 2 hlg 650r in a 5x5 crushing it with autos!! 1400 ppm co2 and 1400 ppfd ! you have to feed heavy also with this intense set up ! thanks for your videos ! keep crushing it blueberry bill from PA
Lol I did the same thing got an HLG scorpion diablo went fine through seedling and veg stage but I cranked it up as it started flowering and poof crunchy crumbly leaves but its a learning curve for me Ive never grown inside or an autoflower plant and still havent blahaha live and learn and I damn sure wont make THAT mistake again probly others but not that. Love the show thanks for the insight and tips. May you and yours be blessed.
JFTR: I started my plants at 350ppfd, at day 5-7 I went up to 500ppfd, from day 12-14 I went to 650ppfd. Planing to go up to 1.100 from week 3 flower. Till now, they look fantastic and grow amazingly fast, compared to many TH-camrs. I'd say, all good so far 😎
You said to let you know in the comments well I just went into flower 4 days ago. I'm growing critical runtz which is pretty Mediterranean oriented loves full sun and high heat. I'm pushing 1500 ppfd right now having some really nice results at 14 in away from my canopy. Oh! Dude thanks for letting me know about the photon app. Its pretty good like you said
Just started watching your videos....,! I've learned more in the 3 that I've watched than a large number of the other 😉🤙and I didn't have to go to another site pay money, thanks dude ! Recommending to all my friends. 😂😊
Ive got a new AC Infinity Evo 8 which has the new samsung evo diodes . Its 720 watts & i use it in my 5x5 & im still yet to turn it up past 7 which is about 600w as its too bright . the new evo diodes are super efficient which is great as it is saving us bucks on our electric bill & the light is not being used at full power so that has got to b a good thing . biggest harvests & best best buds ive had but with less power 😎
Yeah my fluence vypr is the same,be careful, I made the mistake of turning it up and forgetting about it, I went out of town for a few days and when I came back I had lots of light burn
Yeah I sorta had an issue with the evo6 in a 3x3 being too bright. I suggest a PAR meter it's a great tool throughout the grow....hitting that black friday sale for a 4x4 should help my garden environment with the evo 6
These evos are the best built in timer and dimmer. Although my complaint is that i wish i can adjust my light levels without actually turning on the diodes. So that when i adjust it when its lights off time, without having to toggle to the on mode. But right now if i want to do this, you have to unplug the quick connect from the driver. Other than that the light works really well
I don't use a measuring device. I just follow the instructions on my light. 18 to 24 inches in veg @ 50% power. 15 to 18 inches in flower @ 100% hell yeah Brother power. I will work up to 100% about 15% each day. But I grow really healthy plants and when they get more light they take off praying and growing faster. I run a AC infinity 500 watt ionsomething bar light in my 4X4 and a mars hydro fce 3000 in my 3X3 with the same results. Ventilation, circulation of air humidity and temp must all be dialed in if you want Mother loads of the good stuff
That's great! I've noticed LED grow lights usually require around 30 Watts per/sqft. HID's, like HPS, would require around 50 Watts/sqft. These Evo's have gotten efficiency to around 25 Watts/sqft! So, instead of running a nice 750 Watt fixture (like mine), you're getting the same bang with around 600 Watts using the Evo's. That's exciting! I know which fixture I'm going to purchase next. Much thanks for your input!👍💯✌️
Ive been growing in aeroponics for about 7 years and growing for 23 years in some sort of hydro . I've had a few strains stretch to the lights and taken 1700 1800 ppfd. Gg4 is one that loves lights . Then there are some that can't take it chem 91 likes less light. It's strain and pheno dependant really. I have a handful of sp6500s I use for flower and a few fc6500s for veg. I love the sp serries lights. I used 1000w double ended mg / hps before that and still do in the dead of winter for veg. The best thing to do is turn your plant into a bush an use all your space . Snip them young . I use lst clips personally and have the plants grow out rather than up this way most the plant gets all the light I dislike trimming 70% of my plant worrying about larf.
@assog5737 cool sounds like I do the exact opposite. . I agree its so much cheaper than other styles hydro because the roots arent submerged in nutrients only the pump has to be submerged. I grow huge wide bushes I have a 16 x 25 ft flower area with 4 50 gallon tubs 3 plant go in each 50 gal tub . The plants are about 5 ft tall but 6ft wide including bucket height. I use lst clips and snip them multiple times young. I have a section for seedlings , clones , veg and my keepers. I have a 128 site ez cloner for cones 60 site systems for my keepers in veg I have 2 10 site 35 gal buckets ready for my large rooms. 2 5 gallon 10 site buckets for seedlings. Most of the clones and plants in transition up getting tossed or given out to friends are around if I find mother plants that I love. I'm really picky. I've always wanted to give sea of green a try but requires a major over haul. I used to have the occasional issue with rdwc and have always cloned aeroponicly. After losing a few expensive crops the first 100% run aeropnicly I never looked back. Everything about it is fast better bigger cheaper. It's so over looked. It's so easy that I do not even need to change my water through out the whole run only when I flush do I dump to clean fresh water. The only issues I find are humidity is a bit high nothing a dehumidifier doesn't off set though. That and I always have pump back up parts on hand . How do you offset clogged nozzles if you dint mind me asking . I use pond koy mat as a filter in my pumps and wrap the outside with nylons bags. Nothings worse than cleaning spray nozzles mid run.
The law of minimum states that growth is dictated NOT by the total available resources but by the most scarce recourse, better or more lights alone won't make a difference unless everything is dialed in
LEDs are very different to HID lamps.The stretch is down to the spectrum more than anything. Iv been using LEDs for a few yrs now but I still have my bulbs from my HID lamp. Metal Halide for veg as blue stops the stretching and sodium for flower as the reds in the spectrum induces stretching. The reason why my Optic 8+ has dials for warm white/veg and the flower dial has more reds in.It also has a resin boost dial that turns on the UV.
Face-8000 in a 4x4 6.6’ tall 15” pots light at the very top.starting flower I’m at 75% about 3.5’ away from the canopy for the 1st and 2nd week I will actually slowly turn it down as the plants grow to maintain ppfd .then slowly ramp it back to about 80% week 3-8
Just got a new light today now l feel good l don’t have that crappy light anymore as weeks go by in different stages l increase it 25 percent at a time l believe that will be the key as Scotty says l will find out after this grow
cant turn my lights past 75% makes my temps to high in a 2x4 with my fans on full blast ladies didnt like 100% at 85 dagrees in late flower which brings me to a question is 85 dagrees to hi in flower is that strain dapendent
I'm running a Photon Tek X600WPro bar style light, keeping it in a 5 x 5 tent at 7' max interior space. The light is 36" from the canopy and I'm getting minor light burn on leaf tips at 50% power.
I use the photon app and get to 1000 ppfd but that's middle flower. First week of flower is 650 ppfd. I also use their PPFD calculator and try to stay around there you add about 50 ppfd per week of flower until you're at about 1000 then start dropping it back for the last two weeks.. I calibrated the photon app using the ppfd maps provided by my light company
my ppfd is always over 1200 i grow in living soil and my room is always hot, and my pants dont get fried. they take it, and make huge nugs. also i have a fritter little taking 2200 ppfd and pretty uch cruising along likr normal. leaves do look a little wonkey but not much at all. i was amazing when i took the reading... so high and she is taking it in pre flower even.
Bro I'm buying a par meter too man I'm in the same boat I have tacoed some leaves this round because my plants got too close to the powerful light. I dimmed them back and raised the lights as high as I can get them . Lmfao powerful lights are a trip . I've had mine for a few years now and I'm still trying to master them. Like you said tho when you've got different cultivars in the same space and same canopy height you really notice the plants that love tons of light and one that could have done with much less light. Happy growing!
I’m rocking 1100 par in flower at the finish. Somewhere around 2-3lbs of finished per light. I’m using fluence spyders for one room and Phillips LEDs in the other. Phillips spectrum seems to pop those colors out a bit better than the fluence.
Ive been looking and i cant find an episode from you about "the Fade".... id really like to hear what you have to say about this topic that doesn't get talked about a whole lot.
I have the HLG 320 r and gave my plants heat stroke it was only at 50%. Leaves curled, but was able to pull off the harvest. Light is your best friend or worse enemy. Get your lights dialed in
In my 4x4 i have 1 electric sky es300 and a mars hydro sp3000. I noticed the MH does better in veg and the ES does better in flower for light spectrums. The ES i can have 100% in mid flower with little to no issue but the MH i cant turn passed 80% before i start burning. Unfortunately added co2 isnt an option yet, tho my house has 3 people, 2 dogs and 4 cats. Nominal co2 in my basement should be around 500 ppms but never actually measured it
Big tip for going up on your light if you can and alot of lights are 25% incerments turn up 15 20 mins at a time and see how they react leaves will fold down and try to hide from the light if to intense just have to slowly work them into the next lv of intensity
I have a mars hydro fc-e4800 480w bar style led. I keep it at the top of the tent at 100% all the time. During the last weeks of flower, I turn it down to 75%. My seedlings stay short and robust. When they flower, they can stretch up to 18" away from the light without burn. I have also started keeping them at 80-87F 60-80% RH during the first 3 weeks of flower.
Just my personal preference, I use a mars hydro product. Barely go above 50%/75%. Most of the hybrids can’t take the higher light intensity and if they do, they’re far and few in between and you can’t sacrifice the whole tent for one or two plants. Genetics plays a huge role in anything you grow, if you do a mixed/grow like I do, multiple strains. it’s really tough to nail it down 💯 %
So i got a spyda farm sf1000 had it full max dimmer lux over 18k so is this why i only got ounce on my first grow besides yield i am happy it the potency and quality is top .notch .was my yield small from light is max intensity good for yeild
I’m using the same lights and I keep mine at about 33-35 inches above canopy. Light intensity drops off hard on the edges of the lights but it allows you to turn up the light for slightly larger coverage. If running only a few plants I’d go from 25-30 inches and dial back quite a bit on the knob.
Just started a run with my brand new hlg 350 Diablo. I had 2 hlg 100’s but this 350 is insanely powerful. I had to bite the bullet and buy some method seven glasses too bright for my lookers.
They’re solid glasses, I wear them more than my oakleys, the citadel models exceptionally comfortable and gets a lot of compliments cause they look fly af
I keep my 380w LED about 18-23 inches away because it gives me the full 4x4 coverage I need and I never move it, plants dont seem to stretch really but sometimes I want the stretch ;p
I did it in schedules the intensity but still got small yeild and struggle to keep her shorter but she was lomg strong and healthy small harverst good bud still not sure what light i need
Hi Bill, do you think that we can get a lesson on wat percentage when I bought my AC tent lights that came with the 4 x 4 2 x 4 tent? On the dialer has wattage percent like 50% to a 100% can you break down what why did we need to have the lights on from germination to flowery? I hope this makes sense.
i run a 2ftx2ft with sf1000 only need to use 40% untill after stretch never above 80%even in full bloom fried way too many in the past too admit first 3 wks 13-19 dli veg 20-33dli flower 38-65 dli
I think about it all the time. I wear sunglasses when working and shut most of the lights down as well. The light damage to my eyes is my major reason to get out of this business.
Man I'm Still rocking those blurple lights buddy they work pretty good but I definitely need to get me an upgrade sometime what I really need to do is win some😂
So I have 3 gelato 33 and a chemdawg. They are all 10 (days: edit) out of the cloner. They are in a 2x2x4 tent with a VIVOSUN aerolight 100w the tunable with blue and UV. I introduced them at about 30%. Turning them up 10% per day. 12” from the canopy I can get to 80-85% and the gelatos are still reaching up to the light. The chem is setting nice and level. They are in 100% FF ocean forest and I give them 2 cups of water every other day. Every other watering they get a shot of photo-p and recharge. Yesterday the were showing signs of nitrogen deficiency. This seems crazy to me that they could need that much feeding and light so early. 6” inline fan on level 1 24/7. 75° and not letting humidity climb much above low 70s ever. It’s more often than not in low 60s. Are they really just that hungry for light and nutes.
Roger that bud i have gotten 2 Mammoth LED 10 bar units over a 5x8 panda film room in the basement. Ive gotten these lights to push 1200par in this space but the Co2 levels liked to hover around 450-600ppm. Temps 85F, 55-60rh
My chilled lights i cant run them any closer then 24 inches or ill fry the plants i like around 800 too 900 par ive ran at 1000 and higher Nd it seems too bleach the leaves
How do I get some recharge replaced since it was out of date and not good for my plants at all I mean it didn’t do anything for my plants at all no boost of growth nothing happened
hey Scotty. i know you only grow photos but im wondering if you think the par ranges you observed should be consistent with autos as well and do you think the slow increase in intensity is suggested for autos or can you hit them full blast from day 1
IMO, autos kept at 18 hours on through veg AND flower will not need a big boost in PAR during flowering. Photos can be pushed harder because they are dropped to 12 hours/day. Be careful pushing autos over 600 par even during flowering to make sure they are not getting burned. Edit: yes the ramping up definitely helps with autos too.
I’m glad Alex Jones finally found something constructive to talk about. If you have worries, get a 1000 watt HID and wait a few more years for diodes to catch up.
Are CO2 mushroom grow bags worth the cost? It seems like I get 10% more CO2 with 2 bags in a 2X4 grow tent. Is 10% more CO2 worth the cost of 2 bags? How much more bud will I get with a 10% CO2 increase? Or is a good air flow through the tent sufficient?
This is a hotly debated topic and I would not trust and replies you get online. Only way to find out is get them and a cheap co2 meter and see for yourself
I notice my plants love 1100umols of light only if my water is around 1000ppm when umols are around 1000 and my water is 500ppm I notice plant don't like it and start showing signs of yellowing or even a leaf curl...
I’m on my first grow ever. Running dwc. Learning dwc has been a crazy adventure so far because I’ve been cramming as much knowledge as my brain can handle on a daily basis to keep my plants happy. I started with a clone and germinated 2 seeds, 1 being an auto flower. I also ended up taking 2 clones off my first clone just to practice and now I have 5 plants in flower on my first grow and they’re praying all day everyday. Very happy plants so far, but they each have their own scars from the learning process. But anyways my oldest plant, the first clone I got, is on day 39 of flower and I’ve been pushing 1,200-1,400 ppfd (measured with Photone app) across the canopy the whole time and have had no issues. I’ve also ended up pushing the ec up to 2.6 without getting burnt tips. Running gh trio off de chlorinated tap water. I’m not running co2 but want to. Based on my readings (water ph, ec, ppm and intake. Also watching leaves for indications) the plant kept asking for more and more and I kept giving it until everything leveled out and she’s been incredibly happy with very high ppfd and ec.
You’re on your way my dude. Do yourself the best favor you’ve ever done for yourself and get a 20lb bottle of co2 with a controller/regulator. Your buds and lungs will thank you.
Sounds like your on the right path. You learn as you go. I'm using Flora Flex nutrients and keep my Temps around 75 degrees. Change my water once a week. During flower about mid week they are using so much water I top them off again just under the net pot til the next water change
Dude I'm on my 4th grow with modular ebb and flow, I'm still cramming new info and reviewing old info. None-the-less I still love the experience and increased veg growth speed (among other things)
That photon app is off by 2-300 ppfd compared to Apogee meter which is dead on balls accurate .. so with that kept in mind it could still be beneficial
before maxing out my light in bloom i wait till they harden they seem to be able to handle the max power at that point before that when there in early bloom still growing etc the plants are the same as veg till they harden 20% when babies,then i go to 30 early veg to 60% end of veg then 70% at start of bloom then around a week n half into bloom straight from 70% to 100% using the AC infinity 400w light and the uv lights and the rest of there gear lol for abit of context
Keep the light the same for the first week or two of flower as you had in veg. DLI wil be lower as the ending dli in veg but thats ok if you ramp it up again to +-45.
You have to maintain the exact same distance in order to have the same DLI. If your plants grow closer to the lights and yoh can't raise them, you will need the dimmer to bring the balance back. The photon density is controlled by distance and/or wattage.
Scott your the best love ya man great info tonite I'm 70 years old and learn from you everytime Been growing since 1979
I know the show is geared more towards beginner growers, but youre enjoyment talking about growing helps me do max reps in the trim gym
so as someone who went to college for agriculture when you start to dial up the lights around 1000 or more ppfd the only way it will harm the plants is if they are too close to the lights you always wanna stay 11 in. or more away to be safe. the big issue people have is that when you have higher intensity light the plant is breathing and uptaking more nutrients so you can get fertilizer burn. you have to keep that vpd at those precise numbers as well. you typically dont need to add much c02 till around 800 ppfd. they have done studies where they have gotten the plant at 60 DLI.
As a dairy farmer. You'd be surprised how important light is. Winter, autumn and summer suck. Spring weather is the best. We have to much grass. Weeds the same.
As an indoor farmer, my LED's are on 50% output at 24in away and my plants are growing an inch per day ☺️👍🏻
@@chezzylee leaf crops?
@@glen.simpson what do you mean?
that sort of strategy seems to work best with leafy crops.... once you start to grow heartier crops with more depth you really have to run the leds closer to 100% to give the plant the dli it needs for it's metabolic processes, under canopy growth and fruit....basically, you are working harder to find the balance between not burning the top of the plant while trying to feed the entire plant with light....... unlike a flat of leaf lettuce who's fruit is it's leaf and everything grows to one height, and you only need light penetration depth of a few inches....k.
I really appreciate those who share their hard-earned, valuable, interesting knowledge with others. Thanx!
Love these little vids, great job Scotty and Hi-C.
Scotty really is the Billy Mays of the grow world.
Lmfaoooo
Scotty brings a very good point about progressive lighting schedules. New growers think more is always better when in reality less is more
Hi! It's just common sense...mimic how it is done outdoor...22nd of June is the longest day and plants switch to flowering early mid August...so flowering happen when the sun have less intensity and duration...just logical
Hi! It's just common sense...mimic how it is done outdoor...22nd of June is the longest day and plants switch to flowering early mid August...so flowering happen when the sun have less intensity and duration...just logical
Less is more ????? Your mental . Try growing a pound in a 4x2 with a 100wled . Whereas I put the sp250 in there and it's happy days . Stick that 100 in as side lighting and watch those foxtail explode out the buds .
This is something I got right by mistake (new Grower) My budget to start was one 100w led for four plants. a few paychecks later (autoflowers flowering now) I have a total of 350w planning on adding another 150w in a week or so.
@@loganleborgne420 We can improve on what happens in nature. The plants we grow would of evolved to some degree by now.Try treating an ancient landrace strain like you do these and I guess most of them wouldn't be too happy for one reason or another.
wow I bruned the hell out of plants with HEAT from HPS back in the day. So you saying LEd can burn with light. WOW. Its so advanced now. Ive been under a rock for 20 years
If you keep your leaf temps below 86°f , you can hammer them with light without the need of c02. I can push my plants with close to 60dli from flip to harvest as long as the leaf temps stay close to 80°(78° being ideal) but your VPD has to be spot on. There's a study that was published by the NIH a few years back where they could run 2000+ ppfd with no need for c02 due to keeping leaf temps ideal. I've been doing that since and my yields ,bud density , and trich coverage went through the roof. Lol.
Bro this is gamechanger if true. I keep forgetting to refill my c02 tank
I firmly believe that but my light isn't going to go beyond 1000 PPFD but if it did I would do the same thing keep everything cool and fans blowing and crank the lights up.
@@rudolf895 Here's the study that explains everything. Give it a read. I do suggest taking intermittent breaks while doing so 😂
www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8144505/
Sauce www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8144505/
I've only grown 5 plants but this is how I did it and had a ton of sugary buds so far... beginners luck!
they key and ive tried everything is to let your plants grow up into the light vs dimming.. get your plants as far away as possible from the light without them stretching , "but leave some room to move up the lights for stretch" and as they get older/taller they need more light which is perfect bcuz as it gets taller it gets closer to the light so its a ying and yang scenario.. just before flowering move lights up 5-10 inches and they will stretch into the lights perfectly!
So your start out at 100% ?
May we know lights used and rough distance between light and plant. 70'?
Same here 200 to 400 PPFD for clones. 600 to 800 veg. Higher in flower usually 900 to 1000.
I havs been having really good success with my hlg 350r's above and 100 watt lead bars on the sides. When looking at the bud you can tell what side the side lighting was on. The buds bulk out more on the sides with ligjts
scotty!! I got 2 hlg 650r in a 5x5 crushing it with autos!! 1400 ppm co2 and 1400 ppfd ! you have to feed heavy also with this intense set up ! thanks for your videos ! keep crushing it
blueberry bill from PA
Lol I did the same thing got an HLG scorpion diablo went fine through seedling and veg stage but I cranked it up as it started flowering and poof crunchy crumbly leaves but its a learning curve for me Ive never grown inside or an autoflower plant and still havent blahaha live and learn and I damn sure wont make THAT mistake again probly others but not that. Love the show thanks for the insight and tips. May you and yours be blessed.
Scotty cool, knowledgeable and on the pulse of everything growing!
JFTR: I started my plants at 350ppfd, at day 5-7 I went up to 500ppfd, from day 12-14 I went to 650ppfd. Planing to go up to 1.100 from week 3 flower. Till now, they look fantastic and grow amazingly fast, compared to many TH-camrs. I'd say, all good so far 😎
You said to let you know in the comments well I just went into flower 4 days ago. I'm growing critical runtz which is pretty Mediterranean oriented loves full sun and high heat. I'm pushing 1500 ppfd right now having some really nice results at 14 in away from my canopy. Oh! Dude thanks for letting me know about the photon app. Its pretty good like you said
Your a CHAMP Scotty as always son keep em coming.
Just started watching your videos....,! I've learned more in the 3 that I've watched than a large number of the other 😉🤙and I didn't have to go to another site pay money, thanks dude ! Recommending to all my friends. 😂😊
Ive got a new AC Infinity Evo 8 which has the new samsung evo diodes . Its 720 watts & i use it in my 5x5 & im still yet to turn it up past 7 which is about 600w as its too bright . the new evo diodes are super efficient which is great as it is saving us bucks on our electric bill & the light is not being used at full power so that has got to b a good thing . biggest harvests & best best buds ive had but with less power 😎
Yeah my fluence vypr is the same,be careful, I made the mistake of turning it up and forgetting about it, I went out of town for a few days and when I came back I had lots of light burn
Yeah I sorta had an issue with the evo6 in a 3x3 being too bright. I suggest a PAR meter it's a great tool throughout the grow....hitting that black friday sale for a 4x4 should help my garden environment with the evo 6
These evos are the best built in timer and dimmer. Although my complaint is that i wish i can adjust my light levels without actually turning on the diodes. So that when i adjust it when its lights off time, without having to toggle to the on mode. But right now if i want to do this, you have to unplug the quick connect from the driver. Other than that the light works really well
I don't use a measuring device. I just follow the instructions on my light. 18 to 24 inches in veg @ 50% power. 15 to 18 inches in flower @ 100% hell yeah Brother power. I will work up to 100% about 15% each day. But I grow really healthy plants and when they get more light they take off praying and growing faster. I run a AC infinity 500 watt ionsomething bar light in my 4X4 and a mars hydro fce 3000 in my 3X3 with the same results. Ventilation, circulation of air humidity and temp must all be dialed in if you want Mother loads of the good stuff
That's great! I've noticed LED grow lights usually require around 30 Watts per/sqft. HID's, like HPS, would require around 50 Watts/sqft.
These Evo's have gotten efficiency to around 25 Watts/sqft!
So, instead of running a nice 750 Watt fixture (like mine), you're getting the same bang with around 600 Watts using the Evo's. That's exciting!
I know which fixture I'm going to purchase next. Much thanks for your input!👍💯✌️
Viparspectra pro series are next level 👌 💯 🔥
Im still using Lec but i start with 145w for grow, next i put it on 215w for pre flower and advance flower i finish with 315w and i add a Led
Ive been growing in aeroponics for about 7 years and growing for 23 years in some sort of hydro . I've had a few strains stretch to the lights and taken 1700 1800 ppfd. Gg4 is one that loves lights . Then there are some that can't take it chem 91 likes less light. It's strain and pheno dependant really.
I have a handful of sp6500s I use for flower and a few fc6500s for veg. I love the sp serries lights. I used 1000w double ended mg / hps before that and still do in the dead of winter for veg. The best thing to do is turn your plant into a bush an use all your space . Snip them young . I use lst clips personally and have the plants grow out rather than up this way most the plant gets all the light I dislike trimming 70% of my plant worrying about larf.
@assog5737 cool sounds like I do the exact opposite. . I agree its so much cheaper than other styles hydro because the roots arent submerged in nutrients only the pump has to be submerged. I grow huge wide bushes I have a 16 x 25 ft flower area with 4 50 gallon tubs 3 plant go in each 50 gal tub . The plants are about 5 ft tall but 6ft wide including bucket height. I use lst clips and snip them multiple times young. I have a section for seedlings , clones , veg and my keepers. I have a 128 site ez cloner for cones 60 site systems for my keepers in veg I have 2 10 site 35 gal buckets ready for my large rooms. 2 5 gallon 10 site buckets for seedlings. Most of the clones and plants in transition up getting tossed or given out to friends are around if I find mother plants that I love. I'm really picky.
I've always wanted to give sea of green a try but requires a major over haul.
I used to have the occasional issue with rdwc and have always cloned aeroponicly. After losing a few expensive crops the first 100% run aeropnicly I never looked back. Everything about it is fast better bigger cheaper. It's so over looked. It's so easy that I do not even need to change my water through out the whole run only when I flush do I dump to clean fresh water. The only issues I find are humidity is a bit high nothing a dehumidifier doesn't off set though. That and I always have pump back up parts on hand .
How do you offset clogged nozzles if you dint mind me asking . I use pond koy mat as a filter in my pumps and wrap the outside with nylons bags. Nothings worse than cleaning spray nozzles mid run.
been looking at including the migro UVB lights and mars hydro IR and deep red lights, starts making the lighting schedule complicated
The law of minimum states that growth is dictated NOT by the total available resources but by the most scarce recourse, better or more lights alone won't make a difference unless everything is dialed in
LEDs are very different to HID lamps.The stretch is down to the spectrum more than anything. Iv been using LEDs for a few yrs now but I still have my bulbs from my HID lamp. Metal Halide for veg as blue stops the stretching and sodium for flower as the reds in the spectrum induces stretching. The reason why my Optic 8+ has dials for warm white/veg and the flower dial has more reds in.It also has a resin boost dial that turns on the UV.
loving theses real growers shorts thanks skotty and hiC
I have a cheap unit ~t from ebay. Its just a light intensity meter, very cheap but just keeps up from going overboard with the light.
Face-8000 in a 4x4 6.6’ tall 15” pots light at the very top.starting flower I’m at 75% about 3.5’ away from the canopy for the 1st and 2nd week I will actually slowly turn it down as the plants grow to maintain ppfd .then slowly ramp it back to about 80% week 3-8
Scotty, I’d love to see a video of you explaining staking a plant.
Just got a new light today now l feel good l don’t have that crappy light anymore as weeks go by in different stages l increase it 25 percent at a time l believe that will be the key as Scotty says l will find out after this grow
cant turn my lights past 75% makes my temps to high in a 2x4 with my fans on full blast ladies didnt like 100% at 85 dagrees in late flower which brings me to a question is 85 dagrees to hi in flower is that strain dapendent
I'm running a Photon Tek X600WPro bar style light, keeping it in a 5 x 5 tent at 7' max interior space. The light is 36" from the canopy and I'm getting minor light burn on leaf tips at 50% power.
I use the photon app and get to 1000 ppfd but that's middle flower. First week of flower is 650 ppfd. I also use their PPFD calculator and try to stay around there you add about 50 ppfd per week of flower until you're at about 1000 then start dropping it back for the last two weeks.. I calibrated the photon app using the ppfd maps provided by my light company
im doing incredibly well with 8 household leds 14 w each and 6 of them are 4000-4500k and 2 of them 6500k total of 112w for a 2x2
This is the way.
Amazing video and knowledge. I've burnt a few with too much light not everyone talking about this
Some seasons ive grow with led some ive grow with DEHPS
For me DEHPS is still KING 🤴
I use chilled 330 and have never gone past 75% 🤘✌️THANKS SCOTTY…Most will only need 800 to 900 par as we arent running co2🤘🤘✌️✌️
I just have a 150 watt LED in a 2*2 tent, can I put the light closer because its not as powerful?
my ppfd is always over 1200 i grow in living soil and my room is always hot, and my pants dont get fried. they take it, and make huge nugs. also i have a fritter little taking 2200 ppfd and pretty uch cruising along likr normal. leaves do look a little wonkey but not much at all. i was amazing when i took the reading... so high and she is taking it in pre flower even.
Thanks for doin what you do Peace
Bro I'm buying a par meter too man I'm in the same boat I have tacoed some leaves this round because my plants got too close to the powerful light. I dimmed them back and raised the lights as high as I can get them . Lmfao powerful lights are a trip . I've had mine for a few years now and I'm still trying to master them. Like you said tho when you've got different cultivars in the same space and same canopy height you really notice the plants that love tons of light and one that could have done with much less light. Happy growing!
I'm using spider farmer SE 7000 in my 4x4 in 5 gallons it's 2024 model just got the light im in week 5 veg 23 inches away
And Ty again, guys you are great!🎉
I’m rocking 1100 par in flower at the finish. Somewhere around 2-3lbs of finished per light. I’m using fluence spyders for one room and Phillips LEDs in the other. Phillips spectrum seems to pop those colors out a bit better than the fluence.
Lol its my first time growing rocking a 2x2x4 with a 100 watt things are going well one auto in flower one norm in veg
Ive been looking and i cant find an episode from you about "the Fade".... id really like to hear what you have to say about this topic that doesn't get talked about a whole lot.
Just bought Viparspectra P2500 , learning as well 👍✌️💨
There the best dude can't go wrong
I have the HLG 320 r and gave my plants heat stroke it was only at 50%. Leaves curled, but was able to pull off the harvest. Light is your best friend or worse enemy. Get your lights dialed in
Is there a newer video about the best light set up , or does the technology keep changing too quickly to even know what's available ?
In my 4x4 i have 1 electric sky es300 and a mars hydro sp3000. I noticed the MH does better in veg and the ES does better in flower for light spectrums. The ES i can have 100% in mid flower with little to no issue but the MH i cant turn passed 80% before i start burning. Unfortunately added co2 isnt an option yet, tho my house has 3 people, 2 dogs and 4 cats. Nominal co2 in my basement should be around 500 ppms but never actually measured it
Big tip for going up on your light if you can and alot of lights are 25% incerments turn up 15 20 mins at a time and see how they react leaves will fold down and try to hide from the light if to intense just have to slowly work them into the next lv of intensity
Leaves curl inward from too much heat, not downward.
They do it to conserve moisture
They curl up like hotdog buns and sag down like over watering when they have too much light in my experience 🤷♂️
@@derekdefor
Lol hotdog buns. Yup, "tacoing" they call it.
About light intensity. That comes down to DLI
Do you add IR to the light program?
I have a mars hydro fc-e4800 480w bar style led. I keep it at the top of the tent at 100% all the time. During the last weeks of flower, I turn it down to 75%. My seedlings stay short and robust. When they flower, they can stretch up to 18" away from the light without burn. I have also started keeping them at 80-87F 60-80% RH during the first 3 weeks of flower.
I think you're on to something...gonna follow this
You haven’t run into any mold/pm at 80% in week 3 of flower? I may just be unlucky
I apologize for being remedial but what device do I buy to measure ppfd?
Photone app for your phone…works slick! …and it’s free! 😃
Just my personal preference, I use a mars hydro product. Barely go above 50%/75%. Most of the hybrids can’t take the higher light intensity and if they do, they’re far and few in between and you can’t sacrifice the whole tent for one or two plants. Genetics plays a huge role in anything you grow, if you do a mixed/grow like I do, multiple strains. it’s really tough to nail it down 💯 %
Yoooo need some grow dots shit my plants be yellowing in soil. Top dress but idk. Just want to water and recharge it done
So i got a spyda farm sf1000 had it full max dimmer lux over 18k so is this why i only got ounce on my first grow besides yield i am happy it the potency and quality is top .notch .was my yield small from light is max intensity good for yeild
I’m using the same lights and I keep mine at about 33-35 inches above canopy. Light intensity drops off hard on the edges of the lights but it allows you to turn up the light for slightly larger coverage. If running only a few plants I’d go from 25-30 inches and dial back quite a bit on the knob.
Just started a run with my brand new hlg 350 Diablo. I had 2 hlg 100’s but this 350 is insanely powerful. I had to bite the bullet and buy some method seven glasses too bright for my lookers.
They’re solid glasses, I wear them more than my oakleys, the citadel models exceptionally comfortable and gets a lot of compliments cause they look fly af
I sport mine at the lake fishing
@@Oscar-gq4ro that’s the model I got
@@chrstophermcnees6630 can u see through the water with them I need polarized for sure for fishing
I've got 2 350r Diablos in a 4×4, cranked to full power, they rock it!!!
I keep my 380w LED about 18-23 inches away because it gives me the full 4x4 coverage I need and I never move it, plants dont seem to stretch really but sometimes I want the stretch ;p
I did it in schedules the intensity but still got small yeild and struggle to keep her shorter but she was lomg strong and healthy small harverst good bud still not sure what light i need
I run my lights for veg at 25-30%, then for flower the maximum I go is about 60% which works out give or take 1200 PPFD
Simple measure my ppf at different levels as the plant grow and I raise the lights. keeping them in the correct ppf
Very simple with lights 200 watts or less power keep 12 inch's to 20 inch to the tops no closer and anything over 200 watts be very very carful ;)
Happy Thanksgiving Scott
How do you add co2?
Hi Bill, do you think that we can get a lesson on wat percentage when I bought my AC tent lights that came with the 4 x 4 2 x 4 tent? On the dialer has wattage percent like 50% to a 100% can you break down what why did we need to have the lights on from germination to flowery? I hope this makes sense.
Some great info here, thanks for the tips
Love this content.
Loving the videos I enjoy the show but getting extra Scotty talking is always a plus and u are laying down some good info
i run a 2ftx2ft with sf1000 only need to use 40% untill after stretch never above 80%even in full bloom fried way too many in the past too admit first 3 wks 13-19 dli veg 20-33dli flower 38-65 dli
I’ve gone as far as 1500ppfd with 2k co2, and following vpd around 80 degrees.
Accidentally hit thumb down but I love yall and respect.
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣🥏🥏
Set led high percentage, than led height to be 600 at plant canopy and flip to flower. Adjust after stretch to 1000-1200
Love your content. Keep up the awesome work.
Good on ya Scotty. i wonder how often people think about the damage theyre doing to their eyes with LEDs all over the home/ work/ shops/ grows...
I think about it all the time.
I wear sunglasses when working and shut most of the lights down as well. The light damage to my eyes is my major reason to get out of this business.
Man I'm Still rocking those blurple lights buddy they work pretty good but I definitely need to get me an upgrade sometime what I really need to do is win some😂
So I have 3 gelato 33 and a chemdawg. They are all 10 (days: edit) out of the cloner. They are in a 2x2x4 tent with a VIVOSUN aerolight 100w the tunable with blue and UV. I introduced them at about 30%. Turning them up 10% per day. 12” from the canopy I can get to 80-85% and the gelatos are still reaching up to the light. The chem is setting nice and level. They are in 100% FF ocean forest and I give them 2 cups of water every other day. Every other watering they get a shot of photo-p and recharge. Yesterday the were showing signs of nitrogen deficiency. This seems crazy to me that they could need that much feeding and light so early. 6” inline fan on level 1 24/7. 75° and not letting humidity climb much above low 70s ever. It’s more often than not in low 60s. Are they really just that hungry for light and nutes.
Roger that bud i have gotten 2 Mammoth LED 10 bar units over a 5x8 panda film room in the basement. Ive gotten these lights to push 1200par in this space but the Co2 levels liked to hover around 450-600ppm. Temps 85F, 55-60rh
My chilled lights i cant run them any closer then 24 inches or ill fry the plants i like around 800 too 900 par ive ran at 1000 and higher Nd it seems too bleach the leaves
I don’t like going above 900-950 ppfd as you risk losing terps or worse light bleaching all your top buds.
How do I get some recharge replaced since it was out of date and not good for my plants at all I mean it didn’t do anything for my plants at all no boost of growth nothing happened
Did you buy from their site or from Amazon?
got mine from Amazon expired April 2023 wtf? @@CultishMarketing
what up Scotty, much love gro bro......sub
Great content man
Good stuff!!!
hey Scotty. i know you only grow photos but im wondering if you think the par ranges you observed should be consistent with autos as well and do you think the slow increase in intensity is suggested for autos or can you hit them full blast from day 1
They are
IMO, autos kept at 18 hours on through veg AND flower will not need a big boost in PAR during flowering. Photos can be pushed harder because they are dropped to 12 hours/day. Be careful pushing autos over 600 par even during flowering to make sure they are not getting burned.
Edit: yes the ramping up definitely helps with autos too.
I’m glad Alex Jones finally found something constructive to talk about. If you have worries, get a 1000 watt HID and wait a few more years for diodes to catch up.
Are CO2 mushroom grow bags worth the cost? It seems like I get 10% more CO2 with 2 bags in a 2X4 grow tent. Is 10% more CO2 worth the cost of 2 bags? How much more bud will I get with a 10% CO2 increase? Or is a good air flow through the tent sufficient?
This is a hotly debated topic and I would not trust and replies you get online. Only way to find out is get them and a cheap co2 meter and see for yourself
Cheers scotty!
I notice my plants love 1100umols of light only if my water is around 1000ppm when umols are around 1000 and my water is 500ppm I notice plant don't like it and start showing signs of yellowing or even a leaf curl...
Right on! 🎉
Super Information danke
I make sure my light stresses them a touch so i know they are maxed out
I’m on my first grow ever. Running dwc. Learning dwc has been a crazy adventure so far because I’ve been cramming as much knowledge as my brain can handle on a daily basis to keep my plants happy. I started with a clone and germinated 2 seeds, 1 being an auto flower. I also ended up taking 2 clones off my first clone just to practice and now I have 5 plants in flower on my first grow and they’re praying all day everyday. Very happy plants so far, but they each have their own scars from the learning process. But anyways my oldest plant, the first clone I got, is on day 39 of flower and I’ve been pushing 1,200-1,400 ppfd (measured with Photone app) across the canopy the whole time and have had no issues. I’ve also ended up pushing the ec up to 2.6 without getting burnt tips. Running gh trio off de chlorinated tap water. I’m not running co2 but want to. Based on my readings (water ph, ec, ppm and intake. Also watching leaves for indications) the plant kept asking for more and more and I kept giving it until everything leveled out and she’s been incredibly happy with very high ppfd and ec.
Be patient bruh. It's a long journey
You’re on your way my dude. Do yourself the best favor you’ve ever done for yourself and get a 20lb bottle of co2 with a controller/regulator. Your buds and lungs will thank you.
Sounds like your on the right path. You learn as you go. I'm using Flora Flex nutrients and keep my Temps around 75 degrees. Change my water once a week. During flower about mid week they are using so much water I top them off again just under the net pot til the next water change
Dude I'm on my 4th grow with modular ebb and flow, I'm still cramming new info and reviewing old info. None-the-less I still love the experience and increased veg growth speed (among other things)
@@joshuabeckett9325I will definitely be doing this as soon as I can get everything put together right. Really excited to see the improvements with co2
That photon app is off by 2-300 ppfd compared to Apogee meter which is dead on balls accurate .. so with that kept in mind it could still be beneficial
2-300 in which direction?😅
Keep the videos coming
before maxing out my light in bloom i wait till they harden they seem to be able to handle the max power at that point before that when there in early bloom still growing etc the plants are the same as veg till they harden 20% when babies,then i go to 30 early veg to 60% end of veg then 70% at start of bloom then around a week n half into bloom straight from 70% to 100% using the AC infinity 400w light and the uv lights and the rest of there gear lol for abit of context
Keep the light the same for the first week or two of flower as you had in veg. DLI wil be lower as the ending dli in veg but thats ok if you ramp it up again to +-45.
You have to maintain the exact same distance in order to have the same DLI. If your plants grow closer to the lights and yoh can't raise them, you will need the dimmer to bring the balance back. The photon density is controlled by distance and/or wattage.
@@JamesBrown-fd1nv Yes
Scotty, BLINK man !!
A lot of good varieties like lower light levels even dialed in and they use it, the finished product seems lower quality with bigger yields