Nice job relining the furnace. I used KAO wool also and covered it with a high temperature refractory cement in my little foundry. I think it could handle cast iron temps but I'm only attempting AI melts for now.
thanks, I was curious about the furnace when I saw one of your newer videos and was pleased to find this one explaining it. A really good practical look with details and explanations, thanks, much appreciated.
I like the burner. I think that would solve my heat problem. I have a commercial foundry furnace, about 250MM bore. Very much like yours. It has in the refractory, a double spiral flame inlet into the chamber. Now, could you tell me how much pressure behind the oil? I think I could retrofit. It your orifice ceramic? Or is it cooled by virtue of the oil? Thanks, and great job! Mark
I am researching, trying to figure out the best way to add oil to a propane fired forge (that I have not yet built).. I'm sure from the amount of work you are doing, you have this well figured out.. I see in the video your 1.6mm orifice, and the description of the venturi 65mm large, 40mm small and 20mm wide..In the video, it looks like a copper tube running right to the end (in the middle) of the air/propane inlet pipe, but, that didn't make sense with the measuments of the venturi.. When I went back, it looked like the oil supply tube enters from the bottom-side of the air/propane feed pipe. I'm a bit confused about the venturi and feed.. Is the oil pressure fed? And, the Venturi, I can understand a pipe going from 20mm to 40mm creating a venturi, and a 1.6mm diameter feed at the right place pulling the oil in, but, I am also confused how the 20mm wide fits in with all of that.. I know it must have taken you a few revisions to figure all of this out.. You do some interesting work.. Your knowledge would be much appreciated.. Thanks for the videos.. I have watched every one.. The Jehova witness videos were cool... Lots of strange things in the Bible.. Makes me wonder how many times God would have tempted Adam and Eve, had they not finally ate the forbidden fruit when they did.. Even let the Serpent in the Garden to temp them.. I have a couple of things I would like to cast out of Steel, and would sure like to know how to add the oil feed correctly.
I am not sure which end you are talking about so I measured from the steel shell to where the twin pipes were welded, 145mm it is very difficult to measure the length inside the furnace.
@@luckygen1001 Inside the furnace at the end of your burner is the hollow cone 40mm dia. and 65mm dia. on the other side. How long is that hollow cone? Maybe you can treasure? Thank you 🙏
Hi ! Noticed you placed the hot crusible beside some 200 liters oil barrels ! Empty or not ... both cases it's a bomb you have there and the fuse is that hot crusible - right ? But I'm impressed you can melt iron in it - great !
The kaowool I use is rated for 1400C but there are higher temp rated kaowool which you can buy which are very expensive. You must use a coating like satanite. The coatings I use in my videos are no longer available.
+Luckygen1001 It looks like your oil injection tube is a copper tube with cap with 1.6mm hole in the end.. Pressure applied to the tank to push the oil through to the 1.6mm orifice.. (Do you dilute your used motor oil with diesel/Kerosene to thin it? ) Also, you mention the 60mm x 40mm x 20mm wide venturi.. I don't see that.. I see the pipe with forced air, the copper tube with cap with jet sitting right at the opening of the pipe in the furnace... Is that all that it is?? Just insert, solder closed, and force feed the oil under pressure into the opening? Thanks.. I tried this before with similar dimensions, but, didn't have much luck... But, I did not do a good job preheating.. Maybe that was it.. ??
The video shot of the burner is not very clear, the venturi is on the very end of the burner. Its purpose is to atomize the oil so it will burn with great heat inside the furnace. Yes I do dilute waste oil with diesel as it burns better. You can run 100% diesel in this furnace but it is a lot more expense. I do not use preheat on my oil or air, that is why I use diesel to dilute my waste oil. Have a look at my "melting ductile iron video" It shows a closer look at my furnace and burner when lighting up.
I did see that.. I think I have watched most of your videos.. More than once on many of them.. Quite a few times on this one, the propane and melting ductile trying to figure out the venturi.. I see the pressurized oil tank.. Knew it was not preheated.. The Venturi.. 65mm small dia. 40 mm 20 mm wide. It looks like a straight pipe from the blower entry point to the inner furnace.. From the size of the pipe you use in the propane burner, it seems like the 65mm.. I don't see a drop to 40 and then back up to create a venturi,, and seems like the venturi would be restricted at the oil injection 1.6mm orifice,, or,, just before the neck down, or immediately after.. Air Volume/speed seems would be the same if the diameter were the same through the tube.. From the entry point of the copper tube for the oil feed until the tip of the orifice, it would reduce/restrict the flow by the diameter of the obstruction.. Maybe 20mm, but, looks like the only part that would be that large would be the cap.. Still don't see the 40mm, unless you are calculating the second pipe of the "Y", where you put the blower in.. I have seen a cone (what looks to be a plug) on one of the videos when you are running it.. Maybe you had intentions of running two blowers at some point? I always have too may Irons in the fire and too many things that "have" to be done.. Trying to squeeze this project in, and make a different blacksmith forge (Dome that can be raised up on blocks on each side for the larger coil springs, etc.., then, reduced back down to regular size for general forging..). Was wanting to get the right materials and understanding and make two successful projects out of both.. I really enjoy your videos.. Really enjoy watching someone else prove/disprove things based on thoughtful testing.. I did a bunch of testing a few years ago when I wanted to build a "Cooking Rocket Stove".. One that I could cook on for 2 hours and cook Beans and Rice,,, in the event that we wake up one morning and that's all we have to cook, or cook with.. Ha.. I started by testing everything that should work and then, started testing what should "NOT" work, then,, took all of that to make the final "working" Long Time Burning cooking stove.. I call it the Long Horn Rocket Stove.. Works perfectly, and I know if I want to fudge the design, where I can and where I can't, without making other adjustments that aren't worth the hassle.. (keeping dry/fast burning wood, etc..).. If you ever can't decide on a topic for a video,,, a overview of the venturi and oil side of the furnace would be super cool.. There is no doubt you have nailed that side of things down tight.. Cheers and thanks from across the pond..
It is not a straight pipe to the inner furnace. What you are looking at is the end of the venturi. I think that the word venturi is not describing correctly what is there. There is a hollow cone which is 65mm dia. and is 40mm dia. In that 40mm dia. you can see the 1.6mm dia. orifice in the center of that 40mm dia. A venturi in a carburettor is like two hollow flat toped cones put together. It draws petrol up to the orifice and then mixes petrol with air to be burnt in an engine. The Y section you see at the back is a relic of using very old vacuum cleaners as blowers to get enough air into my furnace. Modern vacuum cleaners put out a lot more air so that is why I use only one vacuum cleaner now. The plug you see on the Y section is a wooden plug to stop air leaking out of the blast pipe when using one vacuum cleaner.What you need to do is to get some 65mm pipe and neck it down to 40mm. then you need to put another small pipe with an elbow so it can be connected to a source of water. That small pipe then needs to have an orifice 1.6mm dia. located right at the end of the 40mm dia. Connect up a blower and have a look at the spray pattern. As the spray comes out of the 40mm dia. it makes an inverted cone. It would be a lot better to build a mock up to see how it works. If your cone and orifice is located too far back the spray will condense on the wall of the 65mm dia. pipe so the oil will drip into the furnace causing a lot of smoke and not very hot temperatures. The 1.6 mm orifice size was the smallest drill I had at the time and using thick waste oil it was big enough to allow it to pass through and gave small enough droplets to burn in the furnace. Having said that everything was welded together, so to change anything now would be too much trouble. I would like to experiment with different orifice sizes but it works so well I see no need to change anything. That hollow cone on the end of my burner was machined from a solid piece of steel and then welded to the 65mm pipe. Its only function is to speed up the air so the oil atomizes better. The reason I use vacuum cleaners is because they produce a lot higher pressures than other blowers. Blowing air through that cone to atomize the oil does restrict the air flow if a low pressure is used. I hope this helps.
Ok.. I think I understand.. The 65mm pipe is coned(reduced) down to 40mm at the opening of the furnace.. The 1.6mm jet is at the opening of the 40mm. Probably set back 20mm or so into the 40mm opening.. As the pressure is released from 40mm to the open furnace, it would create a venturi effect.. I will play with it and get it figured out.. Between tank oil pressure, viscosity of the oil/diesel mix, size of orifice, and variable speed/volume of air pressure, should be able to find a happy adjustment in there somewhere that will make the whole setup happy.. Ha.. I never preheated the forge before I started adding oil.. It was actually an open burner blowing into a larger steel tube.. I can see that was a mistake.. When I did get it hot it worked much better, but, I was also dripping oil across an air jet which was not very efficient for atomization of the oil.. Did work much better thinned down.. I have about 2 weeks close up time, then, I will give it a go.. Gives me time to get the rest of the supplies ordered and received.. Thanks LuckyGen... Very much appreciated..
That's good, you are headed in the right direction now. Once you understand how it works the sizes can be changed a little bit to suit what tools you have and what pipe you can get in your local area.
Propane is 3600 F depends heavily on air fuel mix, and Oil is 3800 F or so depends on the type of oil and the air fuel mix. I have read that the peek temp for propane can be very high maybe up to 5000 F (From Google search). But in either case both are very hot when set right. Best Matt
I have a waste oil burner that I recently ran off of diesel it can melt aluminium but doesn't get hot enough to melt brass. Does oil burn hotter than diesel?
I use waste oil to melt cast iron because it is cheaper than diesel but both will get a furnace very hot. If you cannot melt brass there is something wrong with your furnace or you are operating your burner incorrectly.
Hi Lucky, i've been looking for some details on your oil furnace (that can go to cast iron temps) do you have a video showing the burner details part? (i can't find one) i'm about to do an upgrade on my very noisy syphon jet burner. cheers Julian
I don't have a oil burner video, I must make one some time. There are lots of metal casters that use siphon nozzle burners and melt cast iron so easy. I think that you must be doing something wrong. Also you can use propane to melt cast iron and I have a video about how to build a propane burner.
@@luckygen1001 yeah i'm doing plenty wrong for sure! i think my main issue is damp air from my compressor, it's only just getting to bronze temps. i've added a water trap but it's a cheapy one and it's doesn't work very well. i have a supply of pink diesel for my farm machinery so i'm trying to use that if possible. Yesterday i got my air blower working great (old dyson motor) just waiting on a tiny 125CC motorbike fuel pump - and i can try them together :)
With propane I can melt 8 Kgs of bronze in 20 - 25 minutes ready to pour so your melt times seem too long. I use a compressor to pressurize my waste oil to melt cast iron and I do not use a water trap. I know that some water gets mixed in the oil but my furnace has no trouble melting cast iron.
good afternoon my friend, how are you? I have a question for you and maybe you can answer me! How many degrees of heat can sodium sodium silicate withstand?
luckygen1001 Okay, my friend, thank you very much for the answer. What I have in mind is that the silicate can serve as glue for graphite, and making the graphite into a nearly permanent mold. what do you think ?
luckygen1001 yes, I'm almost sure it works. caustic soda yes. but separates with the heat! So I believe that the silicate does not separate because the molecules are broken, for a permanent mold I believe it works, to cast aluminum, and who knows more than that !!! I thought that Blue Crystal material whas silicato !
hello im sergio im frim portugal is it posibel to talk with you from face book e need your welp to anderstand sam stof e to do some things it wwil be nice if you cans spend some time
Nice job relining the furnace. I used KAO wool also and covered it with a high temperature refractory cement in my little foundry. I think it could handle cast iron temps but I'm only attempting AI melts for now.
I love the way that lid opener lifts and swings.
Thanks for showing details of your waste oil heater. I'm dazzled by the results. Melting several kg of cast iron is no small feat.
This furnace can melt 25 kgs in one melt.
Love your videos.
Simple, to the point, no nonsense.
Kudos.
thanks, I was curious about the furnace when I saw one of your newer videos and was pleased to find this one explaining it. A really good practical look with details and explanations, thanks, much appreciated.
Good to meet you, it's a pleasure talking to you, my friend. I'm from Brazil, I really like your videos!
Please can you share the dimmensions of the furnace and any new materials it might me constructed.
thanks
Tim
Hi, thanks for al the info. Is there any way I could get a little more info on your burner design? I would really appreciate it.
I like the burner. I think that would solve my heat problem. I have a commercial foundry furnace, about 250MM bore.
Very much like yours.
It has in the refractory, a double spiral flame inlet into the chamber.
Now, could you tell me how much pressure behind the oil? I think I could retrofit.
It your orifice ceramic? Or is it cooled by virtue of the oil?
Thanks, and great job!
Mark
Good morning, good friend.
I got to make the mixture of graphite, now it is to see how much heat it will bear!
I am researching, trying to figure out the best way to add oil to a propane fired forge (that I have not yet built).. I'm sure from the amount of work you are doing, you have this well figured out.. I see in the video your 1.6mm orifice, and the description of the venturi 65mm large, 40mm small and 20mm wide..In the video, it looks like a copper tube running right to the end (in the middle) of the air/propane inlet pipe, but, that didn't make sense with the measuments of the venturi.. When I went back, it looked like the oil supply tube enters from the bottom-side of the air/propane feed pipe.
I'm a bit confused about the venturi and feed.. Is the oil pressure fed? And, the Venturi, I can understand a pipe going from 20mm to 40mm creating a venturi, and a 1.6mm diameter feed at the right place pulling the oil in, but, I am also confused how the 20mm wide fits in with all of that.. I know it must have taken you a few revisions to figure all of this out.. You do some interesting work.. Your knowledge would be much appreciated.. Thanks for the videos.. I have watched every one.. The Jehova witness videos were cool... Lots of strange things in the Bible.. Makes me wonder how many times God would have tempted Adam and Eve, had they not finally ate the forbidden fruit when they did.. Even let the Serpent in the Garden to temp them..
I have a couple of things I would like to cast out of Steel, and would sure like to know how to add the oil feed correctly.
How long is the 40mm pipe on the end of the oil burner?
Thank you i always enjoy and learning a lot of your Videos.
greetings from Germany
👍👍👍🙏
I am not sure which end you are talking about so I measured from the steel shell to where the twin pipes were welded, 145mm it is very difficult to measure the length inside the furnace.
@@luckygen1001 Inside the furnace at the end of your burner is the hollow cone 40mm dia. and 65mm dia. on the other side. How long is that hollow cone? Maybe you can treasure? Thank you 🙏
Hi !
Noticed you placed the hot crusible beside some 200 liters oil barrels !
Empty or not ... both cases it's a bomb you have there and the fuse is that hot crusible - right ?
But I'm impressed you can melt iron in it - great !
Always one, hey.
@@aubreyaub there is always a safty sissy here .
You have no idea
Can you write the features of the ceramic blanket? I don't want to buy the wrong product
The kaowool I use is rated for 1400C but there are higher temp rated kaowool which you can buy which are very expensive. You must use a coating like satanite. The coatings I use in my videos are no longer available.
@@luckygen1001 Do you think ceramic fiber blanket 1430°C 128kg/M3 and 50mm thickness is suitable?
@@luckygen1001 please.can you answer.this is important for me
@@mertavlamaz6708 That is what I use but you can get 1600C which is very expensive and would be far better.
@@luckygen1001
Is there a site where I can find the product you mentioned. or a site you can recommend?
eu vi que você aplicou silicato de sódio na manta refrataria !
+Luckygen1001 It looks like your oil injection tube is a copper tube with cap with 1.6mm hole in the end.. Pressure applied to the tank to push the oil through to the 1.6mm orifice.. (Do you dilute your used motor oil with diesel/Kerosene to thin it? )
Also, you mention the 60mm x 40mm x 20mm wide venturi.. I don't see that.. I see the pipe with forced air, the copper tube with cap with jet sitting right at the opening of the pipe in the furnace... Is that all that it is?? Just insert, solder closed, and force feed the oil under pressure into the opening? Thanks.. I tried this before with similar dimensions, but, didn't have much luck... But, I did not do a good job preheating.. Maybe that was it.. ??
The video shot of the burner is not very clear, the venturi is on the very end of the burner. Its purpose is to atomize the oil so it will burn with great heat inside the furnace. Yes I do dilute waste oil with diesel as it burns better. You can run 100% diesel in this furnace but it is a lot more expense. I do not use preheat on my oil or air, that is why I use diesel to dilute my waste oil. Have a look at my "melting ductile iron video" It shows a closer look at my furnace and burner when lighting up.
I did see that.. I think I have watched most of your videos.. More than once on many of them.. Quite a few times on this one, the propane and melting ductile trying to figure out the venturi.. I see the pressurized oil tank.. Knew it was not preheated.. The Venturi.. 65mm small dia. 40 mm 20 mm wide.
It looks like a straight pipe from the blower entry point to the inner furnace.. From the size of the pipe you use in the propane burner, it seems like the 65mm.. I don't see a drop to 40 and then back up to create a venturi,, and seems like the venturi would be restricted at the oil injection 1.6mm orifice,, or,, just before the neck down, or immediately after.. Air Volume/speed seems would be the same if the diameter were the same through the tube.. From the entry point of the copper tube for the oil feed until the tip of the orifice, it would reduce/restrict the flow by the diameter of the obstruction.. Maybe 20mm, but, looks like the only part that would be that large would be the cap.. Still don't see the 40mm, unless you are calculating the second pipe of the "Y", where you put the blower in.. I have seen a cone (what looks to be a plug) on one of the videos when you are running it.. Maybe you had intentions of running two blowers at some point?
I always have too may Irons in the fire and too many things that "have" to be done.. Trying to squeeze this project in, and make a different blacksmith forge (Dome that can be raised up on blocks on each side for the larger coil springs, etc.., then, reduced back down to regular size for general forging..). Was wanting to get the right materials and understanding and make two successful projects out of both..
I really enjoy your videos.. Really enjoy watching someone else prove/disprove things based on thoughtful testing.. I did a bunch of testing a few years ago when I wanted to build a "Cooking Rocket Stove".. One that I could cook on for 2 hours and cook Beans and Rice,,, in the event that we wake up one morning and that's all we have to cook, or cook with.. Ha.. I started by testing everything that should work and then, started testing what should "NOT" work, then,, took all of that to make the final "working" Long Time Burning cooking stove.. I call it the Long Horn Rocket Stove.. Works perfectly, and I know if I want to fudge the design, where I can and where I can't, without making other adjustments that aren't worth the hassle.. (keeping dry/fast burning wood, etc..)..
If you ever can't decide on a topic for a video,,, a overview of the venturi and oil side of the furnace would be super cool.. There is no doubt you have nailed that side of things down tight.. Cheers and thanks from across the pond..
It is not a straight pipe to the inner furnace. What you are looking at is the end of the venturi. I think that the word venturi is not describing correctly what is there. There is a hollow cone which is 65mm dia.
and is 40mm dia. In that 40mm dia. you can see the 1.6mm dia. orifice in the center of that 40mm dia. A venturi in a carburettor is like two hollow flat toped cones put together. It draws petrol up to the orifice and then mixes petrol with air to be burnt in an engine. The Y section you see at the back is a relic of using very old vacuum cleaners as blowers to get enough air into my furnace. Modern vacuum cleaners put out a lot more air so that is why I use only one vacuum cleaner now. The plug you see on the Y section is a wooden plug to stop air leaking out of the blast pipe when using one vacuum cleaner.What you need to do is to get some 65mm pipe and neck it down to 40mm. then you need to put another small pipe with an elbow so it can be connected to a source of water. That small pipe then needs to have an orifice 1.6mm dia. located right at the end of the 40mm dia. Connect up a blower and have a look at the spray pattern. As the spray comes out of the 40mm dia. it makes an inverted cone. It would be a lot better to build a mock up to see how it works. If your cone and orifice is located too far back the spray will condense on the wall of the 65mm dia. pipe so the oil will drip into the furnace causing a lot of smoke and not very hot temperatures. The 1.6 mm orifice size was the smallest drill I had at the time and using thick waste oil it was big enough to allow it to pass through and gave small enough droplets to burn in the furnace. Having said that everything was welded together, so to change anything now would be too much trouble. I would like to experiment with different orifice sizes but it works so well I see no need to change anything. That hollow cone on the end of my burner was machined from a solid piece of steel and then welded to the 65mm pipe. Its only function is to speed up the air so the oil atomizes better. The reason I use vacuum cleaners is because they produce a lot higher pressures than other blowers. Blowing air through that cone to atomize the oil does restrict the air flow if a low pressure is used. I hope this helps.
Ok.. I think I understand.. The 65mm pipe is coned(reduced) down to 40mm at the opening of the furnace.. The 1.6mm jet is at the opening of the 40mm. Probably set back 20mm or so into the 40mm opening.. As the pressure is released from 40mm to the open furnace, it would create a venturi effect.. I will play with it and get it figured out.. Between tank oil pressure, viscosity of the oil/diesel mix, size of orifice, and variable speed/volume of air pressure, should be able to find a happy adjustment in there somewhere that will make the whole setup happy.. Ha.. I never preheated the forge before I started adding oil.. It was actually an open burner blowing into a larger steel tube.. I can see that was a mistake.. When I did get it hot it worked much better, but, I was also dripping oil across an air jet which was not very efficient for atomization of the oil.. Did work much better thinned down.. I have about 2 weeks close up time, then, I will give it a go.. Gives me time to get the rest of the supplies ordered and received.. Thanks LuckyGen... Very much appreciated..
That's good, you are headed in the right direction now. Once you understand how it works the sizes can be changed a little bit to suit what tools you have and what pipe you can get in your local area.
the best word to speak about this in English is this one . Bind the graphite !
Add some silicate to the clay. It helps it stick too
How many times can withstand two cal ceramic wool?
Greetings from Poland
I don't see any kind of mechanism to pre-heat the oil before it gets injected in the furnace? could you please give a simple explanation?
Pre-heating the oil won't make much difference, the furnace is already thousands of degrees hotter than one would heat the oil anyway.
Great video! Can you describe what your ganister mixture consists of?
Fireclay and crushed silica rock.
Hi Ironman, just a small question... what pressure do you use in your oil tank? Thanks!
About 50 p.s.i. although you could use less using a 50/50 mix of diesel and waste oil. It all depends on temperature and how thick your oil is.
can you melt iron without needing waste oil? Can I just use the air and propane?
Yes you can melt cast iron propane and air. Have a look at my video about melting cast iron with propane th-cam.com/video/1DyeESQpac0/w-d-xo.html
How many melts before you have to replace kaowool? I can not find sources for ganister. Is there a a manufacturer?
whats hotter: Waste Oil or Air-forched Propangas?
Thanks
Propane is 3600 F depends heavily on air fuel mix, and Oil is 3800 F or so depends on the type of oil and the air fuel mix. I have read that the peek temp for propane can be very high maybe up to 5000 F (From Google search). But in either case both are very hot when set right.
Best Matt
Any chance of buying 3 or 4 Lt of Zircoat off you
I have a waste oil burner that I recently ran off of diesel it can melt aluminium but doesn't get hot enough to melt brass.
Does oil burn hotter than diesel?
I use waste oil to melt cast iron because it is cheaper than diesel but both will get a furnace very hot. If you cannot melt brass there is something wrong with your furnace or you are operating your burner incorrectly.
luckygen1001 Ok thanks.
I think my burner setup needs to be adjusted.
Regarding venturi does it melt down
It is exposed to alot of heat
Or the air can cool it down ?
Combustion air cools the venturi down.
Hi Lucky, i've been looking for some details on your oil furnace (that can go to cast iron temps) do you have a video showing the burner details part? (i can't find one) i'm about to do an upgrade on my very noisy syphon jet burner. cheers Julian
I don't have a oil burner video, I must make one some time. There are lots of metal casters that use siphon nozzle burners and melt cast iron so easy. I think that you must be doing something wrong. Also you can use propane to melt cast iron and I have a video about how to build a propane burner.
@@luckygen1001 yeah i'm doing plenty wrong for sure! i think my main issue is damp air from my compressor, it's only just getting to bronze temps. i've added a water trap but it's a cheapy one and it's doesn't work very well. i have a supply of pink diesel for my farm machinery so i'm trying to use that if possible. Yesterday i got my air blower working great (old dyson motor) just waiting on a tiny 125CC motorbike fuel pump - and i can try them together :)
With propane I can melt 8 Kgs of bronze in 20 - 25 minutes ready to pour so your melt times seem too long. I use a compressor to pressurize my waste oil to melt cast iron and I do not use a water trap. I know that some water gets mixed in the oil but my furnace has no trouble melting cast iron.
good afternoon my friend, how are you? I have a question for you and maybe you can answer me! How many degrees of heat can sodium sodium silicate withstand?
I have used it to make sand molds for cast iron so it will withstand high temperatures.
luckygen1001
Okay, my friend, thank you very much for the answer.
What I have in mind is that the silicate can serve as glue for graphite, and making the graphite into a nearly permanent mold. what do you think ?
I have not used sodium silicate to bind graphite but let me know if it works.
luckygen1001
yes, I'm almost sure it works.
caustic soda yes. but separates with the heat!
So I believe that the silicate does not separate because the molecules are broken, for a permanent mold I believe it works, to cast aluminum, and who knows more than that !!!
I thought that Blue Crystal material whas silicato !
Caustic soda melts at a very low temperature.
where can you buy that zircoat? Google isn't really turning anything up.
+Richard Wheatley I got mine from cast metal services Brisbane, Australia.
+luckygen1001 thank you. there is a similar type store in the city I work in I'll check there after work one day.
5:22 Lid lifting mechanism….
Fabbo ..😁
very unappreciated channel.
The channel is good but it suffers from low quality image. 240p makes you miss the details.
I would say under-appreciated channel. It is filled with a lot of good material though.
hello im sergio im frim portugal is it posibel to talk with you from face book e need your welp to anderstand sam stof e to do some things it wwil be nice if you cans spend some time
I am not on facebook but you can talk with me on youtube.