Best to put a resister across the 2 tester leads. 4.7kohm works well. This puts a load on the battery and is a much more reliable way to tell actual health of the battery,
Best to put a resister across the 2 tester leads. 4.7kohm works well. This puts a load on the battery and is a much more reliable way to tell actual health of the battery
This test doesn't show anything except if it is under 2.8 volts it's really bad. They can still measure like he is doing it as good and be bad. As skiwi said, you need to load test a battery.
Anyone that is unaware that a load needs to be applied to properly test button or coin batteries has no business producing videos on the topic of batteries. Half of the population appears to be a bunch of self proclaimed uneducated professionals that put others in harms way.
@@Mottenfest A simple and easy load would be a LED(light emitting diode) light bulb. Locate a cheap little keyring LED light and remove the casing/shell and extract the bulb/diode. The bulb has a positive prong and a negative prong. Most of these single LED bulbs are rated for a single 3v coin battery, or two 3v coin batteries stacked in a series that equates to 6v total. In most situations, a LED light that is meant for 6v will still manage to luminate when exposed to only 3v, just not to the full brightness. The LED bulb does not mark which prong is positive and which prong is negative, so that is up to you to determine, but at least there are only two possible combinations. Take the bulb and place a new/fresh coin battery between the two prongs and pinch the two prongs against the two faces of the coin battery,... if the bulb does not luminate, reverse the battery and do it again. If the coin battery is good, it will have luminated the bulb during one of the two placement combinations. If a coin battery is bad, it will not achieve full brightness, anywhere from a little less bright to very dim. Rarely do I ever test a coin battery that is fully dead resulting in no lumination whatsoever. Ensure you test the LED bulb with a fresh coin battery so you know how bright the LED bulb is supposed to be. Use a standard red, green, or blue LED light. Make sure not to use a purple color "curing", or "sanitizing" LED light, as they can cause damage to your vision when looked at directly. Standard red, green, or blue LED's are not dangerous to look directly at for a brief moment as long as it is held at an arm distance away.
This is a bad advice. Without a load even an empty battery an show well over 2.5 V. Measure with 10kOhm load between terminals. This will show you the real voltage at more nominal current draws (200-300 uA) for a cr2032.
I don't know if those batteries are comparable but the difference in discharge time is wild!. Lithium has almost ten times the runtime of the other batteries. Very interesting to see the silver battery. It's practically fully charged, until it's dead.
I was advised to diversify my portfolio among several assets such as stocks and bonds since this can protect my portfolio for retirement. I'm seeking to invest $200K across markets but don't know where to start.
Ahh, very, very ingenious Mr. West! Is that Mr. Artimus Gordon holding the camera? May I suggest, playing the most appropriate, theme song in your videos Mr. West? You may find it most appropriate Mr. West! Before I take my leave, may I say, great video, very informative, you are most worthy Mr. West, Robert Conrad would be very proud indeed! Good day, gentlemen!
As MANY others have commented, this is a terrible test method. All you're measuring is the NO-LOAD voltage - it's like the first thing a 12-year-old would do with a new DVM. Think back to your last dead car battery...probably all the dash lights worked, the horn, the radio...but when you tried to crank it over (high load), the lights dimmed and anything else that was on went into brownout from the load. You really should take this down because it's just...wrong. Put up another video showing how to REALLY test, including small loads, if you want to be of service vs. providing disinformation.
Excellent & clear video. I still struggle a bit with the settings on the multimeter and of course they all seem to be set up differently. Maybe add more on the setting up of the multimeter at the start i.e. Where the black & red leads are plugged into and why.
I test by putting a 5mm LED in series with the cell battery measuring the current in mA. If above 4mA it’s good, if below like 3.x, I replace it. Very easy to hold probe and touch the cell.
@@amosfeldman9454 The voltage-vs-time curve for a Li battery goes way out to the right without dropping much - but of course there's a point where it drops off...so just the fact that the video shows some cells not at "full voltage" doesn't mean that those that haven't dropped still can provide any useful power. Loading during testing is critical.
A volt meter test of a lithium large button cell is virtually indeterminate as a good will read 3.0V and a "dead" will read 3.0V. Your examples are extremes and are obvious cases of determinable battery life. Using a glucometer for diabetes will fail to boot, then after warming cell in ones arm-pit for a period of time (70°F upto 85°F+) will give enough thermal warmth for the chemical reaction to produce more current flow. This technique can give you an extra month to purchase another battery. This quick cheat is ditto for bathroom or kitchen food scales where warmer than ambient room temperature (68-72°F) allows for the device to work. User skiwi33 load test is a good idea and will give you a more accurate cell state. (load of 0.6mA using 4.7KΩ resistor) CR2032 cells are rated around 210mAH capacity with Energizer rated higher by cheating current and cut-off voltage down to 2.0V. Their test indicated a 2.9V, 0.19mA load but resulted in an additional 300+ hour extra life span for 225mAH cell. Their chart indicated upto 200mAH capacity smooth sailing and after a rapid decline that would depend on the device voltage and current usage requirement.
I have an LR44 2 batteries to power a digital hygrometer. Put in July 6 2022. D8gital readout and speed still good. May have lost accuracy. Factory reccomended changing after 9 moths. I did not. As you can see this exceed 640 hrs. So how is this and will voltage affect accuracy of humidity reading?
I've tried researching where to recycle batteries but there don't seem to be places that recycle Alkaline batteries any more. Some site state that it's okay to just throw in the trash. I wish there was a better way to recycle Alkaline. It must not be cost effective or safe to do so at this time. I just don't have the knowledge of how the battery works, but you would think we could reuse them for something.
Great instruction but there's one important omission. You didn't state which range to select on the meter and it cannot be read onscreen. But thanks for posting the instructions.
his multimeter is auto range. you set the multimeter in the not smaller voltage setting than the battery you measure. so this red one would be set to the next smallest voltage which is greater than 1.5V or 3V which is: 20 Volt DC: th-cam.com/video/ts0EVc9vXcs/w-d-xo.html always measure with a load on the cell or else it can fool you and show good voltage that would break down with current flowing. use a resistor like 150 ohm. most likely a much bigger resistor like 2.7k is better for the cell to not drain it too much ...
You can't just measure batteries outside with a voltage test. Even an empty battery can show 3V. The thing that's important is if the battery can hold that voltage when it's being used (is under load)!
I have a Fluke 117 multimeter and had to test about 20 CR2450 3.0V coin cells that were in service for over a year. Most were around 2.99V, but some gave strange readings such as 1.65V that gradually climbed beyond 2.0V the longer I held the test probes in place. Have you ever seen this type of behavior from these types of batteries? Why would I see the voltage climb? Testing a new battery the voltage reads 3.03V as soon as I apply the test probes, and the voltage remains constant, so I know the meter is working properly.
@@cbaxter6527 If you mean my fingers were touching the cell, no. The only thing touching the cell were the probes of the multimeter. Coin cells can be tested laying flat, positive side down, as the outer edge is positive with the negative side up. No need to hold the cell.
Question. I have a 3v CR2016 battery which when tested on a traditional battery tester with wired leads tests well into the "good" zone. However, when tested on the BT-168 handheld tester which I am sure you are familiar with, the pointer does not move remaining way over to the start of the red or "replace" zone. Why the discrepancy? Also, I tested the battery on a multimeter and got a reading of 2.9 volts. Any ideas?
Nice video ! I have a wireless door bell , the push button works in the house but not in cold weather is there anything I can do to make it work , Ive changed batteries a few times. Thanks
put a Resistor like R=150 Ohm on it while measuring voltage to see if the voltage drops into the "not good" region..., EDIT: NO i guess for button cells a tiny load like 2.7k Ohm is better
This rule is not general available for all coin batteries. China batteries are not good capacity (far less mAh than a genuine good quality coin battery of a top brand) but they still keep the voltage. Recently I bought two used Casio DB360 and one of them had a genuine Renata (not a fake Renata) 2025 coin cell batt at 3.02 volts and still can turn on the LED backlight of the watch and the other watch (same model watch) had a Chao Chuang or a Sun King (a bad quality China brand 2025 coin battery) at 3.06 Volts but no LED light on and barely i can hear a beep from that watch. I replace the cheap China battery with a new battery at 3.32 volts and almost dead watch come back to life, LED light on and the beep sount more louder. Because that bad battery who put me in error after i test it with my multimeter and show 3.06 Volts, a erronate conclude almost convinced that watch is damage.
Hi, Thank you for the video. I have (3) stored, never used CR2025. All read 3.0 volts but do not work on a remote control for a digital camera. I thought it was the RC-but find out it was the batteries. Any idea why all read 3+ volts but do not work? thanks in advance for you input!
its because of amperage. this video relies on pure voltage which is not enough, amperage does matter so you need to test the battery under load. th-cam.com/video/CZ3PwVtCe1A/w-d-xo.html
Yet another pointless video showing how NOT to test these types of batteries or any household type with a multimeter !! Even a completely duff battery can show a voltage that might match the batteries true capacity. You should always test a battery under load conditions, absolutely pointless doing it like this video shows.
This is simply NOT true. Even dead lithium cells will read 3 volts just fine so with the majority of bad coin cells this method is simply not gonna work.
TOTALLY WRONG with coin batteries . This is open circuit battery voltage measurement, it only shows which battery is bad (ie under 3.0V). It cannot show the battery is good (ie over 3V but still is no good). The voltage must be measured with the load. I don't know why you can post this video when you don't have any knowledge of electrical.
agreed, put a load like 150 Ohm resistor on it and measure if voltage drops into "bad voltage", EDIT: NO i guess for button cells a tiny load like 2.7k Ohm is better
This doesnt mean a battery is good. Some will show 3v under nil load. But the moment you pop it into a device it wont perform bec the voltage will drop. How to measure the MAH on the battery to tell if it has juice left for service life ?
The guy in the video doesn't have to much knowledge about electricity. He just touched the easiest way to explain it. Seeing 3v or above on the meter doesn't mean that the battery is good. At all. To get it right , you have to do the Amp reading , which for 3V new battery shud read around 8.2 mA
No this isn’t good enough, you need a load around 4.7k to test with a volt meter otherwise often the button cell voltage floats up and looks good even though it’s not.
Oh good, you showed the voltage curves! The suck thing about non-alkaline is that it could meter fine, but still be at the end of its life, just right before the cliff.
How important is amperage? I've noticed that new 1.5v batteries put out about 150mA and are dying below 100. I've used amperage for years because I have a mix of regular and NiMH batteries which are normally only 1.2v and are measured in mAh also. When they hold less than 80% of their rated capacity, it's time to recycle.
I had tested my failing CR1632 3V disc before I posted this and it was still just under 3V. When it completely failed I tested the amperage and it was about 30mA. The new one pegged the 150mA limit of my multimeter. The voltage of the new battery was only slightly higher than 3V. So, yes, amperage does matter.
Check out that savvy button flip! Thanks for this! Every other explaination I viewed was way too complicated for my purposes. While I do want to learn how to utilize a multimeter, I just want to know if my buttons are good right now lol. Thanks again!
The guy in the video doesn't have to much knowledge about electricity. He just touched the easiest way to explain it. Seeing 3v or above on the meter doesn't mean that the battery is good. At all. To get it right , you have to do the Amp reading , which for 3V new battery shud read around 8.2 mA
Early in the video, you state a coin battery is considered dead at 2.5 Volts and later 2.0 Volts, similarly two different dead voltages stated for a button battery. Please clarify.
such a good video thank you i was worried my not too old key tracker (galaxy tag) died but testing the battery it turns out its very dead at 0.12v. I've only had it not too many months but it seems the cell they provided was a cheap chinise ones home brand one made by Henlimax.
Thank you for keeping it simple and getting right to the point. A breath of fresh air. Simple, clear, quick and no distractions. Wish more how-to videos would follow your example.
You have to check these with a slight load applied to remove any surface charge. you can't trust a mulimeter reading otherwise.
Absolutely. They can test good with that simple test but fail under load when they are quickly exhausted of charge.
Best to put a resister across the 2 tester leads. 4.7kohm works well. This puts a load on the battery and is a much more reliable way to tell actual health of the battery,
Best to put a resister across the 2 tester leads. 4.7kohm works well. This puts a load on the battery and is a much more reliable way to tell actual health of the battery
Thanks for the tip.
This test doesn't show anything except if it is under 2.8 volts it's really bad. They can still measure like he is doing it as good and be bad. As skiwi said, you need to load test a battery.
Anyone that is unaware that a load needs to be applied to properly test button or coin batteries has no business producing videos on the topic of batteries. Half of the population appears to be a bunch of self proclaimed uneducated professionals that put others in harms way.
I'm very new to this. Do you have a video or written tutorial you can suggest that would help me understand testing under a load? Thank you! ✌️
@@Mottenfest A simple and easy load would be a LED(light emitting diode) light bulb. Locate a cheap little keyring LED light and remove the casing/shell and extract the bulb/diode. The bulb has a positive prong and a negative prong. Most of these single LED bulbs are rated for a single 3v coin battery, or two 3v coin batteries stacked in a series that equates to 6v total. In most situations, a LED light that is meant for 6v will still manage to luminate when exposed to only 3v, just not to the full brightness. The LED bulb does not mark which prong is positive and which prong is negative, so that is up to you to determine, but at least there are only two possible combinations. Take the bulb and place a new/fresh coin battery between the two prongs and pinch the two prongs against the two faces of the coin battery,... if the bulb does not luminate, reverse the battery and do it again. If the coin battery is good, it will have luminated the bulb during one of the two placement combinations. If a coin battery is bad, it will not achieve full brightness, anywhere from a little less bright to very dim. Rarely do I ever test a coin battery that is fully dead resulting in no lumination whatsoever. Ensure you test the LED bulb with a fresh coin battery so you know how bright the LED bulb is supposed to be. Use a standard red, green, or blue LED light. Make sure not to use a purple color "curing", or "sanitizing" LED light, as they can cause damage to your vision when looked at directly. Standard red, green, or blue LED's are not dangerous to look directly at for a brief moment as long as it is held at an arm distance away.
i came in here confused and i left with more knowledge! thank you for a simple and easy video !
Measuring a battery under no load conditions is NOT a good test. It must be tested under load to be sure.
Yes correct. Good
Appreciate your information and easy to understand - like the diagram comparison showing the different types of coin batteries.
What about resistance ?????
You shoud put some resistance ???
Tell me if I am wrong ????
You are wrong
This is a bad advice. Without a load even an empty battery an show well over 2.5 V.
Measure with 10kOhm load between terminals. This will show you the real voltage at more nominal current draws (200-300 uA) for a cr2032.
Man, your video really, really helped me. You have a gift. Thank you! 😊
The information and tutorial I needed within 1 minute and 30 seconds. Thank you!
I don't know if those batteries are comparable but the difference in discharge time is wild!. Lithium has almost ten times the runtime of the other batteries.
Very interesting to see the silver battery. It's practically fully charged, until it's dead.
I was advised to diversify my portfolio among several assets such as stocks and bonds since this can protect my portfolio for retirement. I'm seeking to invest $200K across markets but don't know where to start.
Cool! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for your time and teaching ,buddy
Ahh, very, very ingenious Mr. West! Is that Mr. Artimus Gordon holding the camera? May I suggest, playing the most appropriate, theme song in your videos Mr. West? You may find it most appropriate Mr. West! Before I take my leave, may I say, great video, very informative, you are most worthy Mr. West, Robert Conrad would be very proud indeed! Good day, gentlemen!
As MANY others have commented, this is a terrible test method. All you're measuring is the NO-LOAD voltage - it's like the first thing a 12-year-old would do with a new DVM. Think back to your last dead car battery...probably all the dash lights worked, the horn, the radio...but when you tried to crank it over (high load), the lights dimmed and anything else that was on went into brownout from the load. You really should take this down because it's just...wrong. Put up another video showing how to REALLY test, including small loads, if you want to be of service vs. providing disinformation.
0:00 Voltage rating/testing coin batteries.
2:15
4:15 Different types of batteries.
Wrong way to test needs resistance .
Excellent & clear video. I still struggle a bit with the settings on the multimeter and of course they all seem to be set up differently. Maybe add more on the setting up of the multimeter at the start i.e. Where the black & red leads are plugged into and why.
I test by putting a 5mm LED in series with the cell battery measuring the current in mA. If above 4mA it’s good, if below like 3.x, I replace it. Very easy to hold probe and touch the cell.
You need to test with a load. Button batteries will always show max voltage even when they should be replaced.
Well, clearly that’s not a true statement. You can see evidence against your claim in this video.
@@amosfeldman9454 So just because you see something it must be true. Don't go to magic shows....you might start believing people have superpowers.
@@amosfeldman9454 The voltage-vs-time curve for a Li battery goes way out to the right without dropping much - but of course there's a point where it drops off...so just the fact that the video shows some cells not at "full voltage" doesn't mean that those that haven't dropped still can provide any useful power. Loading during testing is critical.
This was really useful, thanks so much from England.
No testing under load (e.g. with a LED)?
or a resistor like 150 ohm - it would be much better, EDIT: NO i guess for button cells a tiny load like 2.7k Ohm is better
Totally cool .. gotta love your intro and end robot music!
Big help. Thanks for posting.😊
A volt meter test of a lithium large button cell is virtually indeterminate as a good will read 3.0V and a "dead" will read 3.0V. Your examples are extremes and are obvious cases of determinable battery life. Using a glucometer for diabetes will fail to boot, then after warming cell in ones arm-pit for a period of time (70°F upto 85°F+) will give enough thermal warmth for the chemical reaction to produce more current flow. This technique can give you an extra month to purchase another battery. This quick cheat is ditto for bathroom or kitchen food scales where warmer than ambient room temperature (68-72°F) allows for the device to work. User skiwi33 load test is a good idea and will give you a more accurate cell state. (load of 0.6mA using 4.7KΩ resistor) CR2032 cells are rated around 210mAH capacity with Energizer rated higher by cheating current and cut-off voltage down to 2.0V. Their test indicated a 2.9V, 0.19mA load but resulted in an additional 300+ hour extra life span for 225mAH cell. Their chart indicated upto 200mAH capacity smooth sailing and after a rapid decline that would depend on the device voltage and current usage requirement.
Batteries should really be tested under load.
Excellent video, thanks for posting!
Superb Explanation. Thanks Sir. Each and everything is clear.
Why do all CR2032 batteries I test still give me 3V or superior values?
cause you should measure the voltage with a current flowing to see if it is good. use maybe a 2.7k ohm resistor for button cells
I have an LR44 2 batteries to power a digital hygrometer. Put in July 6 2022. D8gital readout and speed still good. May have lost accuracy. Factory reccomended changing after 9 moths. I did not.
As you can see this exceed 640 hrs.
So how is this and will voltage affect accuracy of humidity reading?
0:29 The symbol for volts is [uppercase] "V".
I've tried researching where to recycle batteries but there don't seem to be places that recycle Alkaline batteries any more. Some site state that it's okay to just throw in the trash. I wish there was a better way to recycle Alkaline. It must not be cost effective or safe to do so at this time. I just don't have the knowledge of how the battery works, but you would think we could reuse them for something.
Great instruction but there's one important omission. You didn't state which range to select on the meter and it cannot be read onscreen. But thanks for posting the instructions.
his multimeter is auto range. you set the multimeter in the not smaller voltage setting than the battery you measure. so this red one would be set to the next smallest voltage which is greater than 1.5V or 3V which is: 20 Volt DC:
th-cam.com/video/ts0EVc9vXcs/w-d-xo.html
always measure with a load on the cell or else it can fool you and show good voltage that would break down with current flowing. use a resistor like 150 ohm.
most likely a much bigger resistor like 2.7k is better for the cell to not drain it too much ...
You can't just measure batteries outside with a voltage test. Even an empty battery can show 3V. The thing that's important is if the battery can hold that voltage when it's being used (is under load)!
Good explanation, keep it up .👍🏼
Straight and to the point thanks for posting 👌
Thanks buddy, this was the info I was looking for
If you recharge this cells again they are good to go ?
Thanks your video was very helpful!
Just what I needed to know. Thank you
Welcome Back Matt!
Thank you, Ed, I plan on making more videos soon. I hope all is good with you.
@@HeilmanHackatronics Matt, looking forward to your content.
2.8 wonderful, but my bike's fob wasn't connecting all too well, hopefully replacing it would work
Just saw the voltage discahrge curve, no wonder it was sometimes connecting and sometimes wasn't
if CR2025 Battery not use for 3years , then voltage will be down ?
0:47 The placement of the less-than sign is confusing.
I have a Fluke 117 multimeter and had to test about 20 CR2450 3.0V coin cells that were in service for over a year. Most were around 2.99V, but some gave strange readings such as 1.65V that gradually climbed beyond 2.0V the longer I held the test probes in place. Have you ever seen this type of behavior from these types of batteries? Why would I see the voltage climb? Testing a new battery the voltage reads 3.03V as soon as I apply the test probes, and the voltage remains constant, so I know the meter is working properly.
You were holding the cell. Chemical reaction increases with warm as you observed.
@@cbaxter6527 If you mean my fingers were touching the cell, no. The only thing touching the cell were the probes of the multimeter. Coin cells can be tested laying flat, positive side down, as the outer edge is positive with the negative side up. No need to hold the cell.
Coin' Lithium 3V Batt' reads 3.25V !
This Batt' out of (presumably) well-used vehicle keyless remote 'fob.
Damaged Batt' ?
Thanks.
Same consideration for BR batteries.? PRAM batteries in IMACs for instance…
Without testing with a load, the test is near useless.
very good, you helped me. thank you, bro.
How long can a New CR 1632 last after Expire date ?
Question. I have a 3v CR2016 battery which when tested on a traditional battery tester with wired leads tests well into the "good" zone. However, when tested on the BT-168 handheld tester which I am sure you are familiar with, the pointer does not move remaining way over to the start of the red or "replace" zone. Why the discrepancy? Also, I tested the battery on a multimeter and got a reading of 2.9 volts. Any ideas?
Very helpful - thanks!!
There are people stating that your method is wrong and that you also need a resistor. If that's true, you mislead people. Have a nice day
No load testing of CR cells is kind of useless, you need some kohms load to accurately measure it's state.
What do you mean , sir?
@@mrg466 you need to put a resistor over the terminals to simulate a load on the battery while measuring. Otherwise the measurement is inaccurate.
Ok thanks, .
Is that what battery tester devices do? Is there a video out there demonstrating this diy load test?
@@Tupelo777 th-cam.com/video/RMQI5R79lx4/w-d-xo.html
What about BR2032 battery? What voltage is bad?
Very useful. Thanks a ton.
Great info.Thanks.
Nice video ! I have a wireless door bell , the push button works in the house but not in cold weather is there anything I can do to make it work , Ive changed batteries a few times. Thanks
I've got tons of 2032 batteries that read 2.99-3.01 V on my Fluke 115 and don't work in key fobs :(
put a Resistor like R=150 Ohm on it while measuring voltage to see if the voltage drops into the "not good" region..., EDIT: NO i guess for button cells a tiny load like 2.7k Ohm is better
thank you for the information!
Creative video, thanks :)
Why was your right hand so gigantic in the intro?
Very helpful, thank you
This rule is not general available for all coin batteries. China batteries are not good capacity (far less mAh than a genuine good quality coin battery of a top brand) but they still keep the voltage. Recently I bought two used Casio DB360 and one of them had a genuine Renata (not a fake Renata) 2025 coin cell batt at 3.02 volts and still can turn on the LED backlight of the watch and the other watch (same model watch) had a Chao Chuang or a Sun King (a bad quality China brand 2025 coin battery) at 3.06 Volts but no LED light on and barely i can hear a beep from that watch. I replace the cheap China battery with a new battery at 3.32 volts and almost dead watch come back to life, LED light on and the beep sount more louder. Because that bad battery who put me in error after i test it with my multimeter and show 3.06 Volts, a erronate conclude almost convinced that watch is damage.
Hi, Thank you for the video. I have (3) stored, never used CR2025. All read 3.0 volts but do not work on a remote control for a digital camera. I thought it was the RC-but find out it was the batteries. Any idea why all read 3+ volts but do not work? thanks in advance for you input!
its because of amperage. this video relies on pure voltage which is not enough, amperage does matter so you need to test the battery under load. th-cam.com/video/CZ3PwVtCe1A/w-d-xo.html
@@elwrongo It crossed my mind. Thanks again for your expertise.
Super video's 🎉🎉👍❤️
I have a l1131 is that also 1.5 volts??
Thanks !
Why doesn't anybody tell you what setting to put your voltmeter on I've watched three videos it's like they just totally expect you to know
Yet another pointless video showing how NOT to test these types of batteries or any household type with a multimeter !! Even a completely duff battery can show a voltage that might match the batteries true capacity. You should always test a battery under load conditions, absolutely pointless doing it like this video shows.
Womp womp
Is it possible to use a USB device to recharge LR44 batteries?
😆🙄😆🙄🙄🙄🙄
thankyou , it was Great
thanks much
This is simply NOT true. Even dead lithium cells will read 3 volts just fine so with the majority of bad coin cells this method is simply not gonna work.
Thanks
WRONG way to test
I have something pertaining to the 1.21 gigawatts lol
Thanks sir 😊
Thank you
TOTALLY WRONG with coin batteries . This is open circuit battery voltage measurement, it only shows which battery is bad (ie under 3.0V). It cannot show the battery is good (ie over 3V but still is no good). The voltage must be measured with the load.
I don't know why you can post this video when you don't have any knowledge of electrical.
agreed, put a load like 150 Ohm resistor on it and measure if voltage drops into "bad voltage", EDIT: NO i guess for button cells a tiny load like 2.7k Ohm is better
Cool thanks
All of mine are.438 or less :(
Your technique is being challenged. What say you?
Please take down this outdated video. As others have said, a multimeter alone without a load is not a reliable way to test battery health.
This doesnt mean a battery is good. Some will show 3v under nil load. But the moment you pop it into a device it wont perform bec the voltage will drop. How to measure the MAH on the battery to tell if it has juice left for service life ?
The guy in the video doesn't have to much knowledge about electricity. He just touched the easiest way to explain it.
Seeing 3v or above on the meter doesn't mean that the battery is good. At all. To get it right , you have to do the Amp reading , which for 3V new battery shud read around 8.2 mA
Thanks
No this isn’t good enough, you need a load around 4.7k to test with a volt meter otherwise often the button cell voltage floats up and looks good even though it’s not.
Well Said Jamesey ! Not Many People Realise That. (U.K Spelling)!
This is my concern too. A small load needs to be applied to see what it can hold against.
And i thought there was something wrong with me or my meter! Thank you for mentioning that
Unfortunately, batteries under load read less...
Oh good, you showed the voltage curves!
The suck thing about non-alkaline is that it could meter fine, but still be at the end of its life, just right before the cliff.
How important is amperage? I've noticed that new 1.5v batteries put out about 150mA and are dying below 100. I've used amperage for years because I have a mix of regular and NiMH batteries which are normally only 1.2v and are measured in mAh also. When they hold less than 80% of their rated capacity, it's time to recycle.
I had tested my failing CR1632 3V disc before I posted this and it was still just under 3V. When it completely failed I tested the amperage and it was about 30mA. The new one pegged the 150mA limit of my multimeter. The voltage of the new battery was only slightly higher than 3V. So, yes, amperage does matter.
Check out that savvy button flip! Thanks for this! Every other explaination I viewed was way too complicated for my purposes. While I do want to learn how to utilize a multimeter, I just want to know if my buttons are good right now lol. Thanks again!
Simple explanation or dead wrong explaination because this is complicate matter so it's required complicate explaination.
The guy in the video doesn't have to much knowledge about electricity. He just touched the easiest way to explain it.
Seeing 3v or above on the meter doesn't mean that the battery is good. At all. To get it right , you have to do the Amp reading , which for 3V new battery shud read around 8.2 mA
Early in the video, you state a coin battery is considered dead at 2.5 Volts and later 2.0 Volts, similarly two different dead voltages stated for a button battery. Please clarify.
I hate my heart rate sensor so much. You never know it's the coin battery(even the new one), the sensor itself or the bluetooth dongle is not working.
Voltage test are useless w/o load test also
Thanks -- super useful!
hi can u help me do a video review for 2021 new upgraded multi functional volter test ,it is we can offer u a free product tks
such a good video thank you i was worried my not too old key tracker (galaxy tag) died but testing the battery it turns out its very dead at 0.12v. I've only had it not too many months but it seems the cell they provided was a cheap chinise ones home brand one made by Henlimax.
Thank you for keeping it simple and getting right to the point. A breath of fresh air. Simple, clear, quick and no distractions. Wish more how-to videos would follow your example.
Thank you
Outstanding explanation. Very helpful. Thanks for creating this clip.