That Toth tool with the squeezer is the best method in my opinion. I’ve used rivet jigs and pneumatic squeezers but I always go back to the Toth tool squeezer. It gives me more control. And as you have shown, it’s quite easy to correct a lopsided rivet head.
The outside heads of the rivits have a ring near the edge . To remedy this the depth of the hole in the tool should be deeper. The rivit should be below flush , when crushed it will Fill in the gap and you won't have the ring on the edge of the rivit. I used a Dremel and small round stone bit to deepen the tool hole.
Great video 👌 Hey I just drilled my first trunnion holes and they are a little off. So I can just correct them with a small file, so the rivets won't be off set. Used the AK Builder trunnion tool, and think I just over did that Allen wrench on the trunnion tool. So when I correct the holes make sure front trunnion and receiver are flush.
I used a 1" steel round bar ground flat and to fit, then pressed it with a 20 ton press. But the trigger guard rivets I could not do, so used small bolts and nylock nuts.
I just got a Romy G screw build and trying to decide if I should use rivets on it. And recommendation from anyone since I'm newish to the ak world? The rifle is beautiful and almost perfect and building was a experienced builder that's done more than a few and used red loctite and I was aware of the differnce between screw build and rivet builds and how so many people don't care for screw builds. Seems to me as long as the screws stay,being able to easier replace things is a good thing. My amd65 is riveted and it's also perfect and a wonderful rifle. I'm guessing my Romy G screw build still has to be better than the newer wasr10? And definitely better than pioneer arms or io.
You will never replace anything on the rifle that was riveted. That would be 100k rounds in and by then the barrel should have been changed a couple/few times. Redoing a screw build with rivets will require larger sized rivets since threading opened them up. As far as quality between a G and wasr....they both made the same way...inexpensively and quickly. Quality is virtually the same. An experienced builder would have never used screws in the first place. Even when I started i began with rivets. Rebuild yours with rivets once the trunnions works its way loose and wallers out the rivet holes in the reciever. Until then...shoot it out. It will work fine with screws.
@@VEightMerc124 I spoke to the guy I got it from and he bought the kit and didn't have the tools and his uncle was the experienced builder but also didn't have the tools to use rivets and he said they didn't tap the reciver,they put the thin bolts behind the reciver,so if that's the case I'm guessing the rivets will still fit normal. Of course it's all speculation on my part cause I'm still learning. I sure have learned alot since last week that's for sure. Before I got it and looked up Romy g nobody mentioned it was a wasr and I'd didn't find out till 2 days after about the Romy g history. The parts are definitely better shape than a lot of the ones I've seen online It's a 1981 and almost all matching numbers. I may fork up the $200 or so it'll cost for trigger guard tothtool and apex has the jaws for $69 but may average out the same with shipping cost to get all tothtool tools. Then I'd atleast be able to rivet everything behind the front trunion until I pushed the barrel out. I already own a press and would need the $50 receiver/trunion clamp blocks or maybe even hold out for another receiver and just redo it again if the holes do need over sized rivets. I still have alot to learn and don't know anyone local to speak with or friends into them like I am.
@@VEightMerc124 can't believe I didn't want a vska or wasr,then bought a wasr cause I didn't know it's same as Romy g lol. But my knowledge has doubled 10x since I got it lol.
@@darknature79 wasr and G's arent exact same but quality wise its not gonna be a big difference. Its all really made on same tooling. Obv military older contract gun will be worth more esp if its original barrel. Some WASR's were single stack mag fed when imported, as they came in as sporters. Rebuild it when it needs to, save your cash for ammo rn. Enjoy
Are you supposed to countersink the receiver into the rivet holes before putting the rivets in? Or does installing the rivets sink the receiver into the dimpled trunnion holes?
Technically you should not countersink. The point of those style rivets is the sheet metal deforms down with the rivet into the dimple and increase bonding strength. If the sheet metal is straight it is going to cause a shearing action at the neck of the rivet.
@@AKS-74U depends on what you are making. Some over the years had rear swell necks. Others just as the front in the magwell area. And some rpks have it in the front too as a long rivet. So best to research first and rivet kits are usually complete
Great Vid👍👍 I got a retainer slot that was cut i little too far forward in the barrel. So there is a gap between the retainer and the handguard. I'm thinking about welding/soldering metall into the original slot and filing a new slot in the correct position. My concern is that the high temperatures could weaken the steel - so there could be a safety hazard. Maybe JB-Weld could be a alternative? What would you do? Thanks and with best regards
I'm completely new to AKs, but I have a good friend with presses. Would these toth tool jaws be sufficient for crushing some scope rail rivets? All three rivets will be short for a 12" Draco
@@hattedsandwich2415 ive done scope rail ones, im assuming the standard rail. I forget if i put a spacer on one after partial crush because its recessed. But yes it can work
Getting ready to drill front and rear trunnions, but I just noticed holes on my Romanian 63mod holes on front trunnion are different size? Will I need to make them same hole size by reaming them? Should I make the same size or leave as is?
@@VEightMerc124 I didn't think so, but just wanted to make sure. I do have the trunnion jig and receiver holes jig. I'm a rookie and just want to make sure I don't mess up my first attempt receiver. Wish me luck, drilling tomorrow. 👍🍺
is it really that easy to crush ak rivets or is he using softer rivets......if it is really that easy im now thinking of building my own ak instead of buying a fully built
wondering if this can be used in reverse for the rear trunion for a russian side folder?? round head on the inside and flat on the outside.. i may have to trim off some jaw material to allow it to fit in the receiver though. or modify the original jaws..
Hey thanks for the quick response! Ok, I'm starting my project soon. Going to be my first build, I have a Romanian mod 63 kit. Barrel and 80% receiver is on its way! Looking at my options, not going to be able to build all by myself. Think I'm going to install front trunnion, rear, trigger system by myself. But don't want to do front sight, gas port drilling. I will do the rest. Great videos, keep them up.
I read that the practice of pressing in rivets against the barrel base is discouraged. I heard one company does it. I think it is recommended to press the barrel out to rivet. I haven't built an AK yet but I'm looking into it.
yo your front two rivets are hella lop sided, you can see that on one side the heads are not pressed up against the receiver. using a proper rivet jig instead of those bolt cutters should help you get more even pressure on the rivets and press them down flat.
I looked through the vid to see what you are talking about and thats not entirely the case. Im looking at the rifle now and all of the front 4 rivets are flush up against the reciever. After the dome part of the rive head ends, the sides of the head have very short vertical sides before the shaft. The vertical sides are darker in color as the dome parts have some of the finish rubbed off by the tool. The shinier head gives the illusion that the head is sitting above the reciever. I assure you those are safe and fine, the long rivets are a bit lopsided and after more uses with the tool im getting that method down as well (not fully satisfied with that, could be better though) Now ideally using the original method of construction will always be superior but, i wanted to see how well could it be done if someone did not have access to a lot of tools. Do-able and ending with a safe to operate functional gun is what may matter to some people.
I think 3:42 is a better depiction of what you are seeing. I can see a small hairline gap there. Looking at the rivet now, i cant see it nor is it lopsided. Maybe after the vid segment i recrushed it and maybe after i painted the gun the paint is hiding it too. I also checked out the rivets on my saiga and you can clearly see the difference, the rivets are squeezed with more force, which cant be delivered by the bolt cutter. Obviously not a replacement for a proven build technique but will suffice for a rifle you dont mind dropping on dirt/gravel or not babying in general. (I shoot on my farm so i transport my guns with anything that has wheels like tractor, quads, dirt bike, utv, farm truck... no padded place to set the rifle down. If it falls, its not a big deal. These basic build guns will never win best in show.)
wondering if this can be used in reverse for the rear trunion for a russian side folder?? round head on the inside and flat on the outside.. i may have to trim off some jaw material to allow it to fit in the receiver though. or modify the original cutting jaws..
That Toth tool with the squeezer is the best method in my opinion. I’ve used rivet jigs and pneumatic squeezers but I always go back to the Toth tool squeezer. It gives me more control. And as you have shown, it’s quite easy to correct a lopsided rivet head.
I agree. It is very good.
Looks better than most of these cocky Ak builders rivet work.
The outside heads of the rivits have a ring near the edge .
To remedy this the depth of the hole in the tool should be deeper.
The rivit should be below flush , when crushed it will
Fill in the gap and you won't have the ring on the edge of the rivit.
I used a Dremel and small round stone bit to deepen the tool hole.
bro he's really building an ak
respect
This is awesome...I've always wondered how ak rivets were installed. Thanks for posting!
That is one damn fine looking rivet job sir!
Great video 👌 Hey I just drilled my first trunnion holes and they are a little off. So I can just correct them with a small file, so the rivets won't be off set. Used the AK Builder trunnion tool, and think I just over did that Allen wrench on the trunnion tool. So when I correct the holes make sure front trunnion and receiver are flush.
Nice close up camera work, well done.
Extremely interesting video , i dont think i closed my mouth once watching this , Outstanding !
The best prices on AK-47 parts by a long shot are from a company on Gun Broker called spectresupply2.
I used a 1" steel round bar ground flat and to fit, then pressed it with a 20 ton press.
But the trigger guard rivets I could not do, so used small bolts and nylock nuts.
Very nice work! Where few have bought a rivet pliers like this?
Do you dimple all the wholes on the receiver or just the ones that take the swell necks?
I just got a Romy G screw build and trying to decide if I should use rivets on it.
And recommendation from anyone since I'm newish to the ak world?
The rifle is beautiful and almost perfect and building was a experienced builder that's done more than a few and used red loctite and I was aware of the differnce between screw build and rivet builds and how so many people don't care for screw builds.
Seems to me as long as the screws stay,being able to easier replace things is a good thing.
My amd65 is riveted and it's also perfect and a wonderful rifle.
I'm guessing my Romy G screw build still has to be better than the newer wasr10?
And definitely better than pioneer arms or io.
You will never replace anything on the rifle that was riveted. That would be 100k rounds in and by then the barrel should have been changed a couple/few times. Redoing a screw build with rivets will require larger sized rivets since threading opened them up. As far as quality between a G and wasr....they both made the same way...inexpensively and quickly. Quality is virtually the same. An experienced builder would have never used screws in the first place. Even when I started i began with rivets. Rebuild yours with rivets once the trunnions works its way loose and wallers out the rivet holes in the reciever. Until then...shoot it out. It will work fine with screws.
@@VEightMerc124 I spoke to the guy I got it from and he bought the kit and didn't have the tools and his uncle was the experienced builder but also didn't have the tools to use rivets and he said they didn't tap the reciver,they put the thin bolts behind the reciver,so if that's the case I'm guessing the rivets will still fit normal.
Of course it's all speculation on my part cause I'm still learning.
I sure have learned alot since last week that's for sure.
Before I got it and looked up Romy g nobody mentioned it was a wasr and I'd didn't find out till 2 days after about the Romy g history.
The parts are definitely better shape than a lot of the ones I've seen online
It's a 1981 and almost all matching numbers.
I may fork up the $200 or so it'll cost for trigger guard tothtool and apex has the jaws for $69 but may average out the same with shipping cost to get all tothtool tools.
Then I'd atleast be able to rivet everything behind the front trunion until I pushed the barrel out.
I already own a press and would need the $50 receiver/trunion clamp blocks or maybe even hold out for another receiver and just redo it again if the holes do need over sized rivets.
I still have alot to learn and don't know anyone local to speak with or friends into them like I am.
@@VEightMerc124 can't believe I didn't want a vska or wasr,then bought a wasr cause I didn't know it's same as Romy g lol.
But my knowledge has doubled 10x since I got it lol.
@@darknature79 wasr and G's arent exact same but quality wise its not gonna be a big difference. Its all really made on same tooling. Obv military older contract gun will be worth more esp if its original barrel. Some WASR's were single stack mag fed when imported, as they came in as sporters. Rebuild it when it needs to, save your cash for ammo rn. Enjoy
@@VEightMerc124 thanks for the responses and knowledge
Are you supposed to countersink the receiver into the rivet holes before putting the rivets in?
Or does installing the rivets sink the receiver into the dimpled trunnion holes?
Technically you should not countersink. The point of those style rivets is the sheet metal deforms down with the rivet into the dimple and increase bonding strength. If the sheet metal is straight it is going to cause a shearing action at the neck of the rivet.
@@VEightMerc124 are all 6 rivets like that or just the rear two?
@@AKS-74U depends on what you are making. Some over the years had rear swell necks. Others just as the front in the magwell area. And some rpks have it in the front too as a long rivet. So best to research first and rivet kits are usually complete
Hello friend ! Tell me, where can I get a rivet press like the one in your video?
Great Vid👍👍 I got a retainer slot that was cut i little too far forward in the barrel.
So there is a gap between the retainer and the handguard.
I'm thinking about welding/soldering metall into the original slot and filing a new slot in the correct position.
My concern is that the high temperatures could weaken the steel - so there could be a safety hazard. Maybe JB-Weld could be a alternative?
What would you do?
Thanks and with best regards
I'm completely new to AKs, but I have a good friend with presses. Would these toth tool jaws be sufficient for crushing some scope rail rivets? All three rivets will be short for a 12" Draco
@@hattedsandwich2415 ive done scope rail ones, im assuming the standard rail. I forget if i put a spacer on one after partial crush because its recessed. But yes it can work
Thank-you!
Can the tool be used for all the rivets that need installed on the AK?
no it can not. you will need something different to do the trigger guard and center support rivet.
My hobo freight cutter deformed and stripped the adjustment screw after my first build. Anyone know of a quality bolt cutter these jaws work with?
I like that vise idea! Thank you!
I have found another tool that can be modified to rivet. I didnt know that there is a rivet tool.
Getting ready to drill front and rear trunnions, but I just noticed holes on my Romanian 63mod holes on front trunnion are different size? Will I need to make them same hole size by reaming them? Should I make the same size or leave as is?
You should not have to ream trunnion holes on the original parts. The rivet kit will have rivet diameters to fit. The diameters should be 4mm? IIirc
@@VEightMerc124 I didn't think so, but just wanted to make sure. I do have the trunnion jig and receiver holes jig. I'm a rookie and just want to make sure I don't mess up my first attempt receiver. Wish me luck, drilling tomorrow. 👍🍺
Hi body I have a problem my AK 1975 modle underfolder
And I want to convert to said folding so please give me solution please
is it really that easy to crush ak rivets or is he using softer rivets......if it is really that easy im now thinking of building my own ak instead of buying a fully built
EvendimataE with the right tools damn near anything can be easy.
they are soft but will hold it
wondering if this can be used in reverse for the rear trunion for a russian side folder?? round head on the inside and flat on the outside.. i may have to trim off some jaw material to allow it to fit in the receiver though. or modify the original jaws..
I think hammering in rivets makes a better build. Snap on makes some fine hammers.
Are the rivets made of steel?
Yes they are steel but probably a specific alloy
Awsome bro... Isn't the receiver you built yoyrself or you buy it.
How do you adjust the jaws mine dont close enough to mash the rivets
There is like a 3/8" bolt right next to the jaw attaching to the red handles. Thats how you adjust the gap. You can google this if you dont follow
Did I miss a video? Didn’t see the receiver getting milled, just went from barrel to riveting receiver.
Reciever was introduced as a 100%. For info on drilling that stuff best to buy a jig for the holes or follow schematics.
Hey thanks for the quick response!
Ok, I'm starting my project soon. Going to be my first build, I have a Romanian mod 63 kit. Barrel and 80% receiver is on its way! Looking at my options, not going to be able to build all by myself. Think I'm going to install front trunnion, rear, trigger system by myself. But don't want to do front sight, gas port drilling. I will do the rest. Great videos, keep them up.
Vert nice.. Only a matter of time before im building them a well
Looks like a great tool
My parts kit came with the barrel in the trunion. Can I still attach the receiver and rivets with the barrel in?
I read that the practice of pressing in rivets against the barrel base is discouraged. I heard one company does it. I think it is recommended to press the barrel out to rivet. I haven't built an AK yet but I'm looking into it.
yo your front two rivets are hella lop sided, you can see that on one side the heads are not pressed up against the receiver. using a proper rivet jig instead of those bolt cutters should help you get more even pressure on the rivets and press them down flat.
I looked through the vid to see what you are talking about and thats not entirely the case. Im looking at the rifle now and all of the front 4 rivets are flush up against the reciever. After the dome part of the rive head ends, the sides of the head have very short vertical sides before the shaft. The vertical sides are darker in color as the dome parts have some of the finish rubbed off by the tool. The shinier head gives the illusion that the head is sitting above the reciever. I assure you those are safe and fine, the long rivets are a bit lopsided and after more uses with the tool im getting that method down as well (not fully satisfied with that, could be better though) Now ideally using the original method of construction will always be superior but, i wanted to see how well could it be done if someone did not have access to a lot of tools. Do-able and ending with a safe to operate functional gun is what may matter to some people.
yeah it will work and still be safe, just wont look perfect. the good thing is that rivets are cheap and easy to remove and reinstall.
VEight Merc at 4:19 you can clearly see space at the right side of the top rivet. its lopsided angled to the left.
I think 3:42 is a better depiction of what you are seeing. I can see a small hairline gap there. Looking at the rivet now, i cant see it nor is it lopsided. Maybe after the vid segment i recrushed it and maybe after i painted the gun the paint is hiding it too. I also checked out the rivets on my saiga and you can clearly see the difference, the rivets are squeezed with more force, which cant be delivered by the bolt cutter. Obviously not a replacement for a proven build technique but will suffice for a rifle you dont mind dropping on dirt/gravel or not babying in general. (I shoot on my farm so i transport my guns with anything that has wheels like tractor, quads, dirt bike, utv, farm truck... no padded place to set the rifle down. If it falls, its not a big deal. These basic build guns will never win best in show.)
@@dunwitjayz06
Oh yeah. I see it also. Big old rivet gap between the head and reciever. Anyone who can't see that shouldn't be building AK47
Very interesting!
Excellent video
Lindo trabalho parabéns
Although more time consuming and difficult, I am going to ball-peen the rivets and then round them with a quick zap with the MIG torch.
bravo.thenks
ខ្ញុំចូលចិត្តបច្ចេកទេសអាវុធ
Can you work together in my country?
عاشت ايدك
Minta saj ama pemerintah jika terj perang ribet
Legal
i am armorar all types of wapean ilike you trick
wondering if this can be used in reverse for the rear trunion for a russian side folder?? round head on the inside and flat on the outside.. i may have to trim off some jaw material to allow it to fit in the receiver though. or modify the original cutting jaws..