Terry Carl is right. Those bars in the sawdust chute are there to contain broken blades. Had I known that, I would not have cut them out. However, with my setup, it is impossible for anyone to be standing on that side of the mill. If that were not the case, I would weld them back in.
Tank you for your tips. I love to watch and listen to resourceful person. And also tank you for your English, you are very clear and easy to understand for a French canadian like me.
I'm still with you, and just like last week, I don't want one of those things. I still enjoy watching you work with yours. I see now you need a shed, over that tool you didn't know you needed. Good thing you've got the mill, and can saw the lumber.😆😆😆😆 Eric, I think you're buying yourself work to do.
Thank you for these tips. I just bought my 122 and waiting to get it. Always pleasure, when people tell what is wron in something and what mistakes they have made, so i don`t do same.
Thanks for your tips. I really appreciated how you demonstrated your approach, identifying small yet important problems and prototyping design improvements. Simple but ingenious, explained with humility and humour. Ummmmm….I noticed a big bandage on a finger. Please tell me it isn’t a mill injury!? I just got my 130max for my birthday. Growing more confident to start milling with videos like yours….but your finger…😮
Good day Old Timer, if you go to the woodmizer site you can see the log clamps are like yours, they have a clamp point block on the end, it rotates so you don’t have to fuss with it or drop it, looks simple enough to fabricate. Those are some good mods you did to your mill.
I considered adding such things, but if I made them long enough to stay on the screw shaft, they wouldn't leave enough room for any but the smallest cants.
I had the same problem with my new hm122 my first blade change the blade on the drive wheel kept goin back I adjusted mine 1/4 turn and it’s perfect now, awsome video 👍🏻
Had a rough start was sent a back post for the hm 122 model so holes didn’t line up, they sent out a front post but that was my fault because I hadn’t referenced a part number when talking to them, finally got it up and running with a few different projects completed. The owner of Woodland mills actually contacted me and wanted to make things right and sent me out a pack of blades which reassured me I made the right choice in choosing a local company.
Thank you for posting these videos. I quite enjoy your honesty about this mill, and what you've done to yours so far. I'm thinking about getting the 126 but still have yet to pull the trigger.
Two suggestions for you and others thinking of getting a sawmill: Where are you going to get logs, and where are you going to pile lumber. Everything else if fun.
Do you cut doug fir with your mill? How does it do in large logs. Im on the fence with what mill to order, this or a Linn Lumber, because all my logs will be 24"+ and I worry about it being slow.
Did you try taking a level or a straight piece of steel and lay it across each pulley to see if they are lined up with each other. I saw one of my guys I watch do that. Then you will know if your straight. It's a start. By the way what did you do to your finger. I enjoy your brain storming of things you encounter. Thanks for sharing. Iowa is watching. 2 Inches of fresh snow and 31 degrees, was 58 last Saturday.
It looks like the small gear is not properly pinned into the proper position, it should be tight enough to set a preload on the clutch surfaces and then be pinned to keep the preload the same. You can see the cross hole drilled into it. I bet the pin was never installed when manufactured. I suggested the rotation of the starter on another channel.
It was probably your comment on the starter that I wanted to credit but couldn't remember what channel or who commented. Thanks Matthew. That small gear in the winch floats on coarse threads. Starting with no load, turning the crank pulls that gear against the steel disc next to it and compresses the clutch discs and the load rises. The entire clutch is immobile and turns through the ratchet. When cranking the weight down, the small gear pulls away from the clutch discs allowing them to slip. I think the problem with mine is, the steel disc next to the small gear does not slide freely on the shaft. I'll take it apart today to confirm that, or not.
Those bars I think are if you brake a blade it won’t shoot out that hole. That’s what are mills do we never let anyone stand on that side when were cutting
If you can, visit operators of the different mills. It'll come down to what you want to do and how much, and what you can afford. If I were young and planning to mill as a business, I'd probably buy a Wood-Mizer with all the bells and whistles (except for than annoying amber strobe light). But I'd have years ahead to pay for it.
Hey i too had the tracking issue....never jumped a blade because ive been tryng to set tracking according to spec before initial cut. It is brand new hm122 2021 model i set the blade to specs in book (1mm back and 9mm front) tight it up and turn by hand. The follower wheel stays on point but the drive side comes back in. I set it again and again and again back to specs on both side and the drive side always comes back in. I tried to have it go in and out with the 2 bolts ober 2 hrs it changes nothing ti the drive side. Since i dont dare go against the "factory set do not touch" i set it to match the drive side which ends up being about 7mm in front. At least they are equal to each other. I sawed one small log and no issue.
@Silvain Ouellette Woodland Mills will send you instructions for adjusting the Do Not Touch side of the mill. I had to adjust my drive wheel, but I didn't touch it until I had instructions from WM.
My HM 126 model year 2022 has specific instructions on how to adjust both follower side as well as the drive side. I wouldn’t be afraid to adjust the drive side wheel
It is wet here in Florida and I had my rulers on the green part and it started to mess up the paint from trapped condensation. I put mine down on the galvanized vertical posts instead. Hope this helps someone.
@@OregonOldTimer haha I didn't even think of that. I had one on the tailgate of the truck and saw your comment and started to panic and ripped it off. Luckily no harm. Thanks for the heads up.
From one old timer to another🤣 have you tried Teflon spray? Just don't breath it. Great lube but bad for critters like us. Btw, finished up the head unit yesterday and finishing up the tracks today. 126 👍😎👌
@@OregonOldTimer it has fir me especially on hot items like woodstove door latches etc. It leaves a dry coating that doesn't gather dust as well. Just don't breath it.
I have a 2021 model of the HM130, and the raise and lower control is nothing like that winch you have, thankfully, because that style looks like a headache. I'm not sure if your new winch you ordered is like mine to replace what you have, hopefully it is to make life much easier.
Mine is 2021 HM122. Raise/Lower winch is no longer a problem since spraying in WD-40. I even removed the locking pin. Got tired of accidentally tripping it while cranking the winch.
I like the idea mine dose the same Thang I run a good amount of water on them too so my mill is same as you got going on I've ran 8 logs fir now blade is getting dull having waves in my cuts.
I almost never run water anymore, but I seldom mill pitchy wood. Wood-Mizer advises against running lube when milling extremely dry wood. Eight logs on one blade? Yep, it's dull.
I hear alot of reviews on woodland mills about blades jumping off the wheels. Why do the other reviews of other mills not mention their blades jumping off all the time. Is this a normal thing for all mills or just woodland mills has this issue.
It may be that a high percentage of WM buyers are new to sawmilling. Sawyers willing to spend heaps of money for a high-end mill probably already know what they're doing and don't have the problems we newbies have. I haven't had a blade jump off since the first few hours of operation. I had to adjust the drive wheel just a hair, after consulting WM Tech, and have had no jumpoffs since.
The only time my HM122 blade jumped off is when tension was not correct. I didn't throw a blade last summer at all once I figured out where the tension was correct. The cut also improved. I love my Woodland Mills mill.
I hadn't considered that, but I'm not convinced. If a broken blade is going to leave the mill head, there is plenty of open space between the guides. Unless the blade breaks between the second guide and the drive wheel, the broken end will never make it to the sawdust outlet. Probably not even then as the log being sawn would stop the blade almost instantly, I think. I say "I think" because I've not had a blade break. Yet.
Had I known why those bars are in there, I might have left them in. They're supposed to contain a broken blade so it can't shoot out the chute. Not an issue with my setup as there's no way a person can be on the sawdust side of the mill.
Literally everything is better on a woodmizer. Everything. Unless money is a strong constraint, go WM. Unfortunately I have to go with one of these to start out on my own after running a WM LT mill for years at my previous job.
No pro here, but according to the bandsaw expert at Carter, the band alignment at both wheels should NOT be perfect. It is tension between the two vs. crown on the tire that makes the music. That was on a bandsaw as opposed to a bandsaw mill, but I can't think of any reason why the principle would be different. I have the HF version (Surely a 126 knock off) of mill. Since I learned about the alignment on the shop bandsaw, I quit chasing perfect alignment on my mill and she runs great with no problems. I set my blade so that the spec is satisfied on the idler side and make sure the teeth are clear of tire interference on the drive wheel. Good video!
Thanks for weighing in. There are so many variations in thought and procedure on all aspects of bandsaw milling, it seems more akin to alchemy than to science. Obviously, there is more than one way to do almost everything. The trick is finding what works best for the individual mill and the individual operator.
Terry Carl is right. Those bars in the sawdust chute are there to contain broken blades. Had I known that, I would not have cut them out.
However, with my setup, it is impossible for anyone to be standing on that side of the mill. If that were not the case, I would weld them back in.
Just found your channel this past week. Been enjoying watching it.
Good to hear. Thanks, Chris.
Tank you for your tips. I love to watch and listen to resourceful person. And also tank you for your English, you are very clear and easy to understand for a French canadian like me.
Je t'en prie, Denis. Merci.
I'm still with you, and just like last week, I don't want one of those things. I still enjoy watching you work with yours. I see now you need a shed, over that tool you didn't know you needed. Good thing you've got the mill, and can saw the lumber.😆😆😆😆 Eric, I think you're buying yourself work to do.
Good thing I enjoy such work. Beats going to a gym.
Thank you for these tips.
I just bought my 122 and waiting to get it. Always pleasure, when people tell what is wron in something and what mistakes they have made, so i don`t do same.
You'll find plenty mistakes of your own, Luke. But, yeah, learning from others puts you ahead of the game.
@@OregonOldTimer No doubt, probaply doing all anyway. I appreciating your honesty about mistakes. Thanks for videos.
@@lukeearthwalker7970 Thanks for watching.
@@OregonOldTimer My pleasure
It was a pleasure listening to you, I like your personality and enjoyed watching your video...thank you for the tips sir.
Thank you, and you're welcome!
A can of orange high visibility spray paint for the log stops, log clamps and anything else that shouldn't be touching the blade helps.
Can't see 'em if the log is in the way, which is the problem.
It`s a pleasure to se someone that doesn't think they know everything and they are a expert...
If I knew everything, life would be boring. Learning as I go makes it fun, and if I can share my fun with you, all the better.
Thanks for your tips. I really appreciated how you demonstrated your approach, identifying small yet important problems and prototyping design improvements. Simple but ingenious, explained with humility and humour. Ummmmm….I noticed a big bandage on a finger. Please tell me it isn’t a mill injury!? I just got my 130max for my birthday. Growing more confident to start milling with videos like yours….but your finger…😮
Good day Old Timer, if you go to the woodmizer site you can see the log clamps are like yours, they have a clamp point block on the end, it rotates so you don’t have to fuss with it or drop it, looks simple enough to fabricate. Those are some good mods you did to your mill.
I considered adding such things, but if I made them long enough to stay on the screw shaft, they wouldn't leave enough room for any but the smallest cants.
I had the same problem with my new hm122 my first blade change the blade on the drive wheel kept goin back I adjusted mine 1/4 turn and it’s perfect now, awsome video 👍🏻
Great video, still working on preparing my site all the while itching to unpack my 126, thanks for the tips.
It's been a year, but I just found your comment. So how did it go?
Had a rough start was sent a back post for the hm 122 model so holes didn’t line up, they sent out a front post but that was my fault because I hadn’t referenced a part number when talking to them, finally got it up and running with a few different projects completed. The owner of Woodland mills actually contacted me and wanted to make things right and sent me out a pack of blades which reassured me I made the right choice in choosing a local company.
Thank you for posting these videos. I quite enjoy your honesty about this mill, and what you've done to yours so far. I'm thinking about getting the 126 but still have yet to pull the trigger.
Two suggestions for you and others thinking of getting a sawmill: Where are you going to get logs, and where are you going to pile lumber. Everything else if fun.
Great video... I also have a 122. Thanks for taking it apart so I don't have to.
Very good review of fixes
Thanks! 👍
my grandfather worked in the woods until he was in his 60's (Cottage Grove area) and I inherited his peavey. I just ordered my HM30 last week
I hope you don't have to wait months for your mill.
@@OregonOldTimer got an email yesterday that said it would ship within 4 weeks. When I ordered it, the message was that it would ship by Feb. 28
Do you cut doug fir with your mill? How does it do in large logs. Im on the fence with what mill to order, this or a Linn Lumber, because all my logs will be 24"+ and I worry about it being slow.
Great channel. Like your engineering skills !!
Poverty breeds invention.
@@OregonOldTimer 👍
I enjoy your channel.
Thank you, Mark.
Nice video ! Just ordered my saw.
You'll have fun, for sure.
Very informative! Thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful, Kirk.
Thank you very much, so many great ideas!!
You are welcome.
Great video, thanks for sharing !
Thank you.
Did you try taking a level or a straight piece of steel and lay it across each pulley to see if they are lined up with each other. I saw one of my guys I watch do that. Then you will know if your straight. It's a start. By the way what did you do to your finger. I enjoy your brain storming of things you encounter. Thanks for sharing. Iowa is watching. 2 Inches of fresh snow and 31 degrees, was 58 last Saturday.
I'll try that alignment check. Thanks for the tip. As for my finger... th-cam.com/video/ZXkTFTQnKmY/w-d-xo.html
It looks like the small gear is not properly pinned into the proper position, it should be tight enough to set a preload on the clutch surfaces and then be pinned to keep the preload the same. You can see the cross hole drilled into it. I bet the pin was never installed when manufactured. I suggested the rotation of the starter on another channel.
It was probably your comment on the starter that I wanted to credit but couldn't remember what channel or who commented. Thanks Matthew.
That small gear in the winch floats on coarse threads. Starting with no load, turning the crank pulls that gear against the steel disc next to it and compresses the clutch discs and the load rises. The entire clutch is immobile and turns through the ratchet. When cranking the weight down, the small gear pulls away from the clutch discs allowing them to slip. I think the problem with mine is, the steel disc next to the small gear does not slide freely on the shaft. I'll take it apart today to confirm that, or not.
Those bars I think are if you brake a blade it won’t shoot out that hole. That’s what are mills do we never let anyone stand on that side when were cutting
Blades don't fly anywhere when they break.
New subscriber, love you videos.👍
Thanks and welcome. I just found dozens of old comments I'd never seen, yours included.
These are great videos, thanks so much, still on the fence of what brand to buy though, frontier. Woodland mills or woodmizer
If you can, visit operators of the different mills. It'll come down to what you want to do and how much, and what you can afford. If I were young and planning to mill as a business, I'd probably buy a Wood-Mizer with all the bells and whistles (except for than annoying amber strobe light). But I'd have years ahead to pay for it.
If you watch woodmizer videos you will see a notched bushing that they made to catch the bottom of the cant. It seems to work pretty good.
I've experimented with similar gadgets but haven't come up with one that is worth the trouble to use.
I also noticed that the WM has rollers on top of the log stops... great idea, and I will make some for my HM130 when it arrives
Old brain was confused for a moment until I realized WM means Wood-Mizer as well as Woodland Mills.
Thanks for the tips.
Happy to help.
Great tips!!!
Thank you.
Hey i too had the tracking issue....never jumped a blade because ive been tryng to set tracking according to spec before initial cut. It is brand new hm122 2021 model i set the blade to specs in book (1mm back and 9mm front) tight it up and turn by hand. The follower wheel stays on point but the drive side comes back in. I set it again and again and again back to specs on both side and the drive side always comes back in. I tried to have it go in and out with the 2 bolts ober 2 hrs it changes nothing ti the drive side. Since i dont dare go against the "factory set do not touch" i set it to match the drive side which ends up being about 7mm in front. At least they are equal to each other. I sawed one small log and no issue.
@Silvain Ouellette Woodland Mills will send you instructions for adjusting the Do Not Touch side of the mill. I had to adjust my drive wheel, but I didn't touch it until I had instructions from WM.
@@OregonOldTimer thanks ill get in touch with them
My HM 126 model year 2022 has specific instructions on how to adjust both follower side as well as the drive side. I wouldn’t be afraid to adjust the drive side wheel
Woodland Mills sent me the instructions when I realized the drive wheel needed adjustment. All good now.
It is wet here in Florida and I had my rulers on the green part and it started to mess up the paint from trapped condensation. I put mine down on the galvanized vertical posts instead. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for that tip. I'll do the same. A magnetic sticker blistered paint on our car, so I should have thought of that.
@@OregonOldTimer haha I didn't even think of that. I had one on the tailgate of the truck and saw your comment and started to panic and ripped it off. Luckily no harm. Thanks for the heads up.
I had just bought the mill love it but I'll leave the bars for now just check it more often
If I'd known what those bars are for, I'd have left them in.
From one old timer to another🤣 have you tried Teflon spray? Just don't breath it. Great lube but bad for critters like us. Btw, finished up the head unit yesterday and finishing up the tracks today. 126 👍😎👌
Silicone spray works just fine for me. I spray the uprights every few hours. Does Teflon last longer?
@@OregonOldTimer it has fir me especially on hot items like woodstove door latches etc. It leaves a dry coating that doesn't gather dust as well. Just don't breath it.
I have a 2021 model of the HM130, and the raise and lower control is nothing like that winch you have, thankfully, because that style looks like a headache. I'm not sure if your new winch you ordered is like mine to replace what you have, hopefully it is to make life much easier.
Mine is 2021 HM122. Raise/Lower winch is no longer a problem since spraying in WD-40. I even removed the locking pin. Got tired of accidentally tripping it while cranking the winch.
@@OregonOldTimer must be a weight thing between the 22 and the 30 then, not an age thing lol, glad it's work good for you now.
I like the idea mine dose the same Thang I run a good amount of water on them too so my mill is same as you got going on I've ran 8 logs fir now blade is getting dull having waves in my cuts.
I almost never run water anymore, but I seldom mill pitchy wood. Wood-Mizer advises against running lube when milling extremely dry wood.
Eight logs on one blade? Yep, it's dull.
If you put to much water to lube blades it causes havoc with throwing blades( from hydroplaning to build up on wheel, try slowing down lube
I hear alot of reviews on woodland mills about blades jumping off the wheels. Why do the other reviews of other mills not mention their blades jumping off all the time. Is this a normal thing for all mills or just woodland mills has this issue.
It may be that a high percentage of WM buyers are new to sawmilling. Sawyers willing to spend heaps of money for a high-end mill probably already know what they're doing and don't have the problems we newbies have.
I haven't had a blade jump off since the first few hours of operation. I had to adjust the drive wheel just a hair, after consulting WM Tech, and have had no jumpoffs since.
The only time my HM122 blade jumped off is when tension was not correct. I didn't throw a blade last summer at all once I figured out where the tension was correct. The cut also improved. I love my Woodland Mills mill.
great tips!
Glad you think so.
Those bars are to keep your blade inside the guard incase the blade breaks
I hadn't considered that, but I'm not convinced. If a broken blade is going to leave the mill head, there is plenty of open space between the guides. Unless the blade breaks between the second guide and the drive wheel, the broken end will never make it to the sawdust outlet. Probably not even then as the log being sawn would stop the blade almost instantly, I think. I say "I think" because I've not had a blade break. Yet.
Nice video
Thanks, Quinton.
I think the bars keep the squirrels out!
From what I read and hear, they're to keep broken blades inl.
Eric I suggested to a woodland owner cut those bars off chute and you would have thought I cussed his mother!
Had I known why those bars are in there, I might have left them in. They're supposed to contain a broken blade so it can't shoot out the chute.
Not an issue with my setup as there's no way a person can be on the sawdust side of the mill.
DO YOURSELF A FAVOR LOOK AT WHAT WOODMIZER DOES WITH THEIRS IT IS THE BEST I HAVE SEEN
To what, specifically, do you refer?
YOUR SCREW THAT PUSHES THE LOG TO THE STOPS WOODMIZER HAS A NICE
Literally everything is better on a woodmizer. Everything. Unless money is a strong constraint, go WM. Unfortunately I have to go with one of these to start out on my own after running a WM LT mill for years at my previous job.
No pro here, but according to the bandsaw expert at Carter, the band alignment at both wheels should NOT be perfect.
It is tension between the two vs. crown on the tire that makes the music.
That was on a bandsaw as opposed to a bandsaw mill, but I can't think of any reason why the principle would be different.
I have the HF version (Surely a 126 knock off) of mill. Since I learned about the alignment on the shop bandsaw, I quit chasing perfect alignment on my mill and she runs great with no problems.
I set my blade so that the spec is satisfied on the idler side and make sure the teeth are clear of tire interference on the drive wheel.
Good video!
Thanks for weighing in. There are so many variations in thought and procedure on all aspects of bandsaw milling, it seems more akin to alchemy than to science. Obviously, there is more than one way to do almost everything. The trick is finding what works best for the individual mill and the individual operator.
On your shaft of the clutch did you notice the keeper pin probably put a feeler gauge between to get the perfect gauge
I don't understand what you mean. "Perfect gauge" of what?
CRC 336 is superior to WD 40. I used both for years on metal punches. The WD40 would dry out after sitting around. The other would not.
Thanks for the tip.