I've had a pair of those for many years. My Dad actually made them years ago and used them all his life. Since he passed on now, I still use them for changing the oil in my vehicles and for doing under vehicle repairs. They are safe and solid. The pair I bought from the big box store, I ended up throwing away because they weren't safe anymore. These will last me the rest of my life. Mine are solid wood with stops screwed to the front so the vehicle doesn't go over the top when you drive onto them. Mine are also tapered so I can drive lower vehicles onto them without rubbing the bumper on them. I also glued rubber on the bottom to keep them from sliding when you drive up onto them.
These are hollow inside. The ones I made are way better, can hold a semi on them and I will never have to worry about them breaking. I used 6 2x6's, cut them at an angle as this guy did and used 4 12 inch bolts to hold them together. Mine are wider than his, heavier and much more durable.
Due to the weight of the car the ramps are pressed against te pavement. i Don't think they will fall over. However, making them wider than the wheels would make them extremely stable.
I made a set of these probably 40 years ago. I made the ramp detachable. They will support the heaviest of vehicles. My ramp portion is built like his, but the main portion is stacked two by twelves. Having removable ramps, gives me more flexibility doing repairs.
Its a good idea, but if i was making these i would ply sevral peices of this timber together flat ways (with glue aswell) and cut the ramp from what would then essentially be a solid wood block instead of this sort of box section construction. Probably have them a bit wider aswell to reduce the risk of rolling. Maybe thats OTT but if your going to be lying under tons of metal its better to be safe than sorry. For sure its great idea and really handy to get the whole front end up but id still have a jack under there to take some of the weight
MY dad has a similar pair of these back in the 60's and no doubt they were made many years before we were born . I have also made several pair back in the 80's.. and those who think they are dangerous simply dont understand physics. They will never collapse or tip over ..not in hundred or more years unless you're just stupid or careless about driving onto them way off center. .
Similar but much easier and stronger ramps can be made (with a chainsaw) by simply flat stacking rough 2x8s or 10s, cut off in two-inch steps or longer as required...a kind of staircase ramp. I recommend to staircase them on the other end too, but steeper, for stability. Simply nail together and make a 2x4 stop nailed flat on the end on top. Strong enough for anything, including big trucks. Rough but effective.
Yes, get as hard a wood as possible and wider than your tires. The design in the video is just too weak to be safe. Any force other than absolute vertical and those ramps could buckle with even a very light weight car on it. But solid wood, screwed together, no problem
I made 4 of those and used them for 30+ years. Used galvanized 3.5" spiral nails. They were easy to move around, stand them up on the ramp end put your arm over the upside to fit in your armpit ;-) clamp them, lift and walk. The thing is not that heavy when lifted this way. Wish I could demonstrate, instead of describing.
Set up a mirror on the ground so you can see exactly where you are as you climb the ramp. Helps in not overshooting the stop on top (don't ask me how I know). By the way, I use inexpensive plastic ramps that do the job quite well.
Dude, you nailed it! I mean, I can't believe you actually used shuttering nails for a job like this, and you are very lucky to have survived using them. In fact, with that level of luck, go buy a lottery ticket and get yourself a proper set of steel ramps with the winnings.
Put the stop blocks further from the edge. If you hit the stop blocks as they are shown with too much momentum, you will tip the ramps over and damage the car and get stuck. The front edge of the tire should be stopped back at least 4 to 6 inches.
Mark G My thoughts as well. I would have put the stop blocks about 6 inches further to the rear, and probably made the top of the ramp a bit longer. Other than that, these are actually much safer and stronger than most of the cheapy metal or plastic ramps, although a bit heavier.
Also those stop plates are eventually going to fall off. Every time the tires bump into them it pushes the stop block out and pulls on the nails. Not a good design there.
@@mjenx86 No. The tire rides over the top and puts minimal forward force, more downward force as the tire tries to climb over the stop. The stop blocks should be across the top and 4 inches from the end. The axle should be about 8 inches from the end or the block will tip forward on braking.
Glue would have helped. Solid wood throughout the ramp would have helped. Screws would have helped. Painting it red would have made it much safer. This would be fine for a lawnmower. People, don’t do this.
Ok, эта шняга должна быть раза в два шире и также иметь опоры по бокам для защиты от опрокидывания. А так конструкция надежная, доска более чем толстая для такого веса.
Very solid build inter and outer will take 500lb pressure per inch.. That will hold a 32 ton lorry I have try it . I should be out of hospital in 6 weeks time...
Tony Suley, please DO NOT try this. it is extremely dangerous. if you want to use wood as a car ramp then please use some SOLID lumber. such as 4x6 or 4x8.
Made mine out of 2 x 10 and laid them flat. Yes they are a little heavy but they do not slide like metal ramps and don't crack like plastic ramps. Cost under $20 in lumber, glued and screwed. I would never use nails on something like this. They are solid and work GREAT. Today's cars have fewer locations to jack from and place jack stands. Jacks and jack stands can and do slip which is very unnerving. These wooden ramps are great to do quick oil changes and they store easily out of the way. Painted them with some old exterior house paint so they will last.
You all should have more respect for your elders if you were my son and I heard you speaking to someone like that you would need a major operation to get my foot out of your backside.
After buying a regular set of metal ramps that were reinforced and then a set that had detachable ramps, I made a set of wooden ramps. Both metal ramps bent, when I drove up them when they weren’t exactly dead on straight. I built a wooden set and have been using these for the last 20 years. They don’t have to be exactly straight, they don’t bend or break. They give me me a 5 1/4” lift, enough to change oil and other minor things. If I need higher I use my jack and stands. Thanks! Jim
I had steel ramps before. Besides the inconvenience of storing those monsters, I actually had one slip when trying to drive a car up on it. I'll stick to hydraulic floor jacks and jack stands.
One technique from keeping metal ramps from slipping is to thread a long strap through the holes such ramps typically have. Then run the strap straight back so your rear wheels are on the straps as your front climb the ramps.
Antes de meterse debajo del carro se deben de cumplir con varias cosas más sobre seguridad., utilizar TRIPIES de metal y colocarlos debajo de la suspensión,usar topes en las llantas traseras,no niños cerca,etc.
I made some of these over 35 years ago with less wood than these. Had Suburbans and other large vehicles up on them for all that time. These are way better than what you can buy because they lift higher. Use 2 x 12s for the wood.
Built something similar to this about 28 years ago but longer and wider to handle 32,000 pound trucks. No air space, solid stack of 2x12 lumber, with 45 degree cut on each step so they don't kick forward as you climb up with a rear wheel drive. Added a 2x4 as the last step (square cut) so you know when to stop. Gave me a good additional 8 inches for oil changes and also used them on the rear duals (inside wheel) for installing snow chains (on the outside tire) without having to jack the truck up. I put a nice heavy duty handle on the side for carrying them. (garage door handle) The company is still using them and they have not rotted because they are stored inside. I also added marks on the garage floor so I could set them in place and not have to fool around if I wanted to close the door in the winter. IOW, exact same location each time, leaving room to work. It's not rocket science. Truck mechanics have been doing this for decades.
@@mptrader1620 No pictures, other than whatever you can visualize in your mind. I used the width of the tires as my starting point, which on my trucks was about 11 inches. Laid the lumber flat and figured out how high I wanted to go. From there it was simple math that each board should be a few inches different than the next. In my case the bottom plank was about 4 ft long and each of the next ones was about 6 inches shorter. The handles were from a garage door so fairly sturdy, and easily available at any hardware store. Guessing each ramp weighs around 40 pounds. As I said, 30 years later they are still in use and with a fleet of 12 oil trucks, they are used on a regular basis.
Do you think could be this more safe www.tradeshopitalia.com/37609-large/2-supporti-cavalletti-regolabile-per-auto-supporto-cavalletto-einhell-bt-as-2000.jpg
EM - I would actually prefer a wider base myself but its hardly “dangerous” as is. In fact, his ramps are as wider or wider than the average jack stand base, and it wold take an awful lot of side force to push a car off of a pair of jack stands setting on a concrete driveway. Still, he did make some mistakes. For example I would have glue the joints prior to nailing them. Also he wasted a lot of wood and made a lot of extra cuts for himself by not just cutting two tapered sections from one longer piece of wood. Just one angled cut down the middle and you have two identical taper cut pieces with no waste.
SLOBeachboy i get what your saying but if he would of just made some support on the bottom of them, it would prevent them from tipping. I’ve seen something like this in person and watched a car fall on a guy. Completely made me view car supports really differently.
You can buy used metal car ramps cheaper than the wood you use. Metal ramps have a stop at the top and small rail on the sides to prevent the car slipping off.
Slight push or bump sideways can cause a problem.....either widen the "footprint" of each ramp to prevent sideways tipping... or somehow tie the 2 ramps together when they are used. Makes me nervous looking at this..
If you make those ramps too steep the spoiler area under the bumper will get damaged or even torn out when the car goes up or down the ramps . The ramp must be long and gentle .
obscur156 come on people,,,,,,,lighten up and learn to live a little more dangerously like this guy. you all act like you're afraid to have a car fall on you .
I suppose it depends on what country you are in and what materials are available. Here in the UK wood is expensive so buying steel ramps is a more worthwhile solution
www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-GVW-Capacity/19526658?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2860&adid=22222222228017563421&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=60968599608&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-87559257888&wl5=9011274&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=19526658&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAzanuBRAZEiwA5yf4uuzqTRv4LNYcx3cr373jPr2USemj7euVL67eEDv-fnZDIRuJFQWdFxoCXsYQAvD_BwE. Sure you can lol
a leadpen is way better than an inkpen. more accurate, and shouldnt the nailgun be adjusted to punch in the nails properly so you dont have to use a hammer afterwards?
Markers are used by people who never do exact work. A number of the people making videos here are uncapable and have no knowledge of measuring, marking, cutting, drilling, welding ….. I could go on and on! All they can do is push the button to take pictures/make videos. I would be ashamed to show some of the stuff that some others make here. Rotton wood, rusty steel...just paint over it and present it. We are living in a world today where people do not take pride in what they do.
have you ever heard a real nail gun ...they bang ...not a zip noise thats an auto feeder drive ...dry liners use them ...hes only knocking it tighter dont mean i condone this video ....its a big no ...ramps are certified ,the only your certifying doing this is eventually ,your own death !!!
Look guys! Someone finally "invented" that thing we have all been needing to lift our vehicles up to get work done! Now if only there was a more reliable, affordable, easily accessible way to get ramps just like those..... This guy is an absolute "genius".
Awesome brilliant! First person to build DIY workshop ramps! And: - - too narrow for safety - stop blocks too close to the end for safety - too steep for the material used - heavier than commercially available. Also probably more expensive and bigger.
I made a set and realised what a load of rubbish. I went on to make a second pair what was not as steep only to find that any type of dampness on the tyre's it just slips on the wood on the way up. But on the up side the wood kept my workshop nice and warm ☺
MANY times you need to remove the wheels to make important repairs (brakes, suspension, steering, etc), as well as have the vehicle lifted AND LEVEL - that is why we have JACK STANDS that load at SPECIFIED LOCATIONS identified in the vehicle's documentation. BE SMART
i have some nice steel ramps,but i use my floor jack and jack stands 90% of the time,since it is super fast and safe imo...plus you can lift cars up exactly where you need them to be...
Thats 6 mins 31 seconds i will never get back in my life. Dont use them completely unsafe would be safer cutting them to 2ft lengths and nailing them together. Them jack the car up and use them as blocks under the wheels!!
I designed a set of car ramps based of this video, it was my girlfriend who said i should build some instead of buy some so thats what i plan on doing. Got the design in autocad and everything ready to go for tomorrow and im very excited to get cutting and making. Thank you for the design idea. only things i changed was how long the base extends out past the angled part of the ramp, a slight angle on the back stop so the weight is more over the middle of the stands and mice will be made out of 1 inch thick pieces with a 9.125 inch base to drive up so it extra stable since my car rims are 17 x 7.
Terrible design. No glue, no screws - even with that micro-car you can see the wood starting to separate. The angle is too steep - the bumper on this tiny car is rubbing as it approaches and you can see he had to add a small piece of timber as a step because the car was clearly going to push the ramp along, rather than drive up onto it. A nail gun is great for tacking a panel onto a frame, not so good for something subject to multiple forces in different axes. Just an overall poorly-designed item.
I made some from wood 25 years ago. The only cutting I did was on the length. 12 6' - 2x8 lumber boards. 2 cut to 5 1/2'. 2 cut to 5'. 2 cut to 4 1/2'. 2 cut 4'. 2 cut 3 1/2'. 1 of each size laid on top of one another and screwed together with countersunk wood screws. Worked just like it was 2 solid cuts of wood. Seems like I used a small piece to each ramp to act as a stabilizer on the back of each ramp. And they could be used on nearly any surface. Even in the yard. Try that with a metal ramp, and the weight of the front end will drive it into the ground.
So please, please, please, can you tell me , how is te live after death ? is there more stupids like this? crushed by a car because they used cheap wood ramps ?
andrademeza fifty bucks gets you a decent set of ramps. Perfectly capable of supporting a vehicle. It’s idiots putting lateral load on the ramps that causes them to bend or warp. Operator error, not product flaw. I have never seen even the cheapest of metal ones have problems when properly used
If they were made from 2x12 lying one on top of another instead of sideways it would be great and safe. They would be a little heavy but not bad with the rollers.
Where I live they cost about 100 if u find wide and long enough for wide tire and low bumper, so yeah it's worth it to do it yourself, but not this guys method, but simple lying them flat on top of each other. This guy wanted to save material or not sure what's his goal was but I wouldn't use these
Its probably cheaper to buy ramps, the cost of lumber is probably more than a pair of even new ramps. While wood is fully capable of supporting what appears to be about a 3,000 lb vehicle, the ramps need to be wider. It looks like it could be toppled sideways with a good push sideways. A thinner or second ground plank would make getting started on the ramps easier to prevent slide out. Buying proper ramps would also likely make storage easier as many nest together for storage. Store bought ramps would also be lighter and wouldn't need to have wheels to move them around.
Keijo Viitanen because he’s under a truck supported by hollow wooden structures. And he’s supported by the end grain (the weak part of the wood). Those things will fracture and splinter over time and eventually fail. He is an idiot for getting under that truck. Had he made them solid and had all wood mounted horizontally, then he would be fine.
Cost of the wood + time + safety.....Just buy metal ramps for about $50-75....They will last a life time....I know someone who was crushed to death working on a car...
Proper ramps are actually even less - you can get a pair of 2.5tonne rated metal ramps with tread and sides/wheel guides from an Autoparts store or ebay for around $30-$40.
It could use some more though, but at least you left a spot in the back to store your mary jane. Oh and you could buy them cheaper than what you paid for the 2X10's
Don't use two By's, they will split, and drop the car. Even if you sandwich and screw them together, they can split, dropping the car. I made ramps using Scrap Plywood, sandwiched, glued with construction adhesive, and screwed together. Put a sandwich Plywood stop on the ends. Yes they are heavy, but I drag them around with rope attached to the ends. Nothing is hollow on my ramps.
Nothing special.I made it about 4 years ago from 4 by 4 wood and I could use it even for my sprinter van but they were very heavy. It is not worth it ,really.
I've had a pair of those for many years. My Dad actually made them years ago and used them all his life. Since he passed on now, I still use them for changing the oil in my vehicles and for doing under vehicle repairs. They are safe and solid. The pair I bought from the big box store, I ended up throwing away because they weren't safe anymore. These will last me the rest of my life. Mine are solid wood with stops screwed to the front so the vehicle doesn't go over the top when you drive onto them. Mine are also tapered so I can drive lower vehicles onto them without rubbing the bumper on them. I also glued rubber on the bottom to keep them from sliding when you drive up onto them.
These are hollow inside. The ones I made are way better, can hold a semi on them and I will never have to worry about them breaking. I used 6 2x6's, cut them at an angle as this guy did and used 4 12 inch bolts to hold them together. Mine are wider than his, heavier and much more durable.
Jay Miller I would never get under a car held up by a hollow wooden structure. This guy is a total hack job.... now his channel name makes sense.
@@youtubeisbroken241 I wouldn't put my bike on his ramps. I said previously that i used 6 2x6's, I meant 6 2x10's. they are sandwiched together.
Due to the weight of the car the ramps are pressed against te pavement. i Don't think they will fall over. However, making them wider than the wheels would make them extremely stable.
Ok, I tend to agree however then why not secure all parts with screws? PS- and do not use them with wet tires!
Well then he did a good job for the future of humanity
I made a set of these probably 40 years ago. I made the ramp detachable. They will support the heaviest of vehicles. My ramp portion is built like his, but the main portion is stacked two by twelves. Having removable ramps, gives me more flexibility doing repairs.
Great hack. I added shingles on inclined surfaces so wheels would not spin climbing incline. Worked great.
Nice job if you have time. I just bought a heavy steel set from the landfill thrift shop for $5
Its a good idea, but if i was making these i would ply sevral peices of this timber together flat ways (with glue aswell) and cut the ramp from what would then essentially be a solid wood block instead of this sort of box section construction. Probably have them a bit wider aswell to reduce the risk of rolling.
Maybe thats OTT but if your going to be lying under tons of metal its better to be safe than sorry.
For sure its great idea and really handy to get the whole front end up but id still have a jack under there to take some of the weight
MY dad has a similar pair of these back in the 60's and no doubt they were made many years before we were born . I have also made several pair back in the 80's.. and those who think they are dangerous simply dont understand physics. They will never collapse or tip over ..not in hundred or more years unless you're just stupid or careless about driving onto them way off center. .
Similar but much easier and stronger ramps can be made (with a chainsaw) by simply flat stacking rough 2x8s or 10s, cut off in two-inch steps or longer as required...a kind of staircase ramp. I recommend to staircase them on the other end too, but steeper, for stability. Simply nail together and make a 2x4 stop nailed flat on the end on top. Strong enough for anything, including big trucks. Rough but effective.
Herman Teunissen yes flat and wider woods it's good idea
Yes, get as hard a wood as possible and wider than your tires. The design in the video is just too weak to be safe. Any force other than absolute vertical and those ramps could buckle with even a very light weight car on it. But solid wood, screwed together, no problem
My same thought
Good idea.
I made 4 of those and used them for 30+ years. Used galvanized 3.5" spiral nails. They were easy to move around, stand them up on the ramp end put your arm over the upside to fit in your armpit ;-) clamp them, lift and walk. The thing is not that heavy when lifted this way. Wish I could demonstrate, instead of describing.
Dad made a set way back in the 60s but made them much wider a lot safer
Very good; but why bother, when you can buy metal ones for £10? Then use the wheels to make a rolling inspection bed?
Set up a mirror on the ground so you can see exactly where you are as you climb the ramp. Helps in not overshooting the stop on top (don't ask me how I know). By the way, I use inexpensive plastic ramps that do the job quite well.
Made some of these back in t he 70's. Once you make and use them once you find out how heavy they are. Then where do you store them?
Dude, you nailed it! I mean, I can't believe you actually used shuttering nails for a job like this, and you are very lucky to have survived using them. In fact, with that level of luck, go buy a lottery ticket and get yourself a proper set of steel ramps with the winnings.
What the fuck are shuttering nails, and why do they fit in a gun?
Put the stop blocks further from the edge. If you hit the stop blocks as they are shown with too much momentum, you will tip the ramps over and damage the car and get stuck. The front edge of the tire should be stopped back at least 4 to 6 inches.
Mark G My thoughts as well. I would have put the stop blocks about 6 inches further to the rear, and probably made the top of the ramp a bit longer. Other than that, these are actually much safer and stronger than most of the cheapy metal or plastic ramps, although a bit heavier.
Also those stop plates are eventually going to fall off. Every time the tires bump into them it pushes the stop block out and pulls on the nails. Not a good design there.
@@mjenx86 No. The tire rides over the top and puts minimal forward force, more downward force as the tire tries to climb over the stop.
The stop blocks should be across the top and 4 inches from the end. The axle should be about 8 inches from the end or the block will tip forward on braking.
Glue would have helped. Solid wood throughout the ramp would have helped. Screws would have helped. Painting it red would have made it much safer. This would be fine for a lawnmower.
People, don’t do this.
Metal ramps available at the auto parts store are lighter, safer and less expensive.
Kildie Rezrpt nobody buys metal anymore. Get Rhino Ramps
I still have the steel ones I bought 20 years ago. Im happy knowing that they are easily recyclable.
@@luptonpittman6520 i saw the news some of them broken! (Plastic)
@@TN-bm6dh Yes sir. Also distort.
True I have them
Ok, эта шняга должна быть раза в два шире и также иметь опоры по бокам для защиты от опрокидывания. А так конструкция надежная, доска более чем толстая для такого веса.
pfz на бок завалится и ни кто уже не поможет
Very solid build inter and outer will take 500lb pressure per inch.. That will hold a 32 ton lorry I have try it . I should be out of hospital in 6 weeks time...
Tony Suley, please DO NOT try this. it is extremely dangerous. if you want to use wood as a car ramp then please use some SOLID lumber. such as 4x6 or 4x8.
Lol lol hahaha 😂
Top Man
very funny. .
Made mine out of 2 x 10 and laid them flat. Yes they are a little heavy but they do not slide like metal ramps and don't crack like plastic ramps. Cost under $20 in lumber, glued and screwed. I would never use nails on something like this. They are solid and work GREAT. Today's cars have fewer locations to jack from and place jack stands. Jacks and jack stands can and do slip which is very unnerving. These wooden ramps are great to do quick oil changes and they store easily out of the way. Painted them with some old exterior house paint so they will last.
I made some of these over 50 years ago and got rid of them shortly after that. It's way too easy to have a car fall off the side of the ramp.
lol if you drove off the ramps, isn't that you who's at fault?
make them a bit wider then the tire.
50 years ago? How old are you?
You all should have more respect for your elders if you were my son and I heard you speaking to someone like that you would need a major operation to get my foot out of your backside.
" fall off the side" .. read!
After buying a regular set of metal ramps that were reinforced and then a set that had detachable ramps, I made a set of wooden ramps. Both metal ramps bent, when I drove up them when they weren’t exactly dead on straight. I built a wooden set and have been using these for the last 20 years. They don’t have to be exactly straight, they don’t bend or break. They give me me a 5 1/4” lift, enough to change oil and other minor things. If I need higher I use my jack and stands. Thanks! Jim
I had steel ramps before. Besides the inconvenience of storing those monsters, I actually had one slip when trying to drive a car up on it. I'll stick to hydraulic floor jacks and jack stands.
One technique from keeping metal ramps from slipping is to thread a long strap through the holes such ramps typically have. Then run the strap straight back so your rear wheels are on the straps as your front climb the ramps.
Simple, as a kid i would have to stand with my foot at the back of the ramp while mum or sis did the same to stop the slipping. Good times lol.
make your wedges and screw 5 or 6 together. no voids. remove all side play in the wood.
Antes de meterse debajo del carro se deben de cumplir con varias cosas más sobre seguridad., utilizar TRIPIES de metal y colocarlos debajo de la suspensión,usar topes en las llantas traseras,no niños cerca,etc.
Existen unos de ptr mas practicos ,resistentes y seguros
I made some of these over 35 years ago with less wood than these. Had Suburbans and other large vehicles up on them for all that time. These are way better than what you can buy because they lift higher. Use 2 x 12s for the wood.
Helped me make a decision to never by a cordless nailer!
I have that same nailer and mine apparently works much better. He probably doesn't have the thing adjusted right.
Ive got the same dewalt 1st fix nailer mine hits home every time. Just needs to adjust the hammer depth.
He got the combo kit. It includes a hammer with the nailer.
Seems like screws are in order for this project.
Built something similar to this about 28 years ago but longer and wider to handle 32,000 pound trucks. No air space, solid stack of 2x12 lumber, with 45 degree cut on each step so they don't kick forward as you climb up with a rear wheel drive. Added a 2x4 as the last step (square cut) so you know when to stop. Gave me a good additional 8 inches for oil changes and also used them on the rear duals (inside wheel) for installing snow chains (on the outside tire) without having to jack the truck up. I put a nice heavy duty handle on the side for carrying them. (garage door handle) The company is still using them and they have not rotted because they are stored inside. I also added marks on the garage floor so I could set them in place and not have to fool around if I wanted to close the door in the winter. IOW, exact same location each time, leaving room to work. It's not rocket science. Truck mechanics have been doing this for decades.
Why type a million words, then use IOW instead of "in other words"? Sorry, the internet just annoys me sometimes.
@@georgetpeppel2900 .. Why say it's a million when it's only 150 words? (give or take)
I made the ramp portion of mine removable so once it was up you had better access from the sides.
@rupe53 - do yo have a picture of this.
@@mptrader1620 No pictures, other than whatever you can visualize in your mind. I used the width of the tires as my starting point, which on my trucks was about 11 inches. Laid the lumber flat and figured out how high I wanted to go. From there it was simple math that each board should be a few inches different than the next. In my case the bottom plank was about 4 ft long and each of the next ones was about 6 inches shorter. The handles were from a garage door so fairly sturdy, and easily available at any hardware store. Guessing each ramp weighs around 40 pounds. As I said, 30 years later they are still in use and with a fleet of 12 oil trucks, they are used on a regular basis.
They need more of a support base. I wouldn’t use those even if I was desperate.
Do you think could be this more safe
www.tradeshopitalia.com/37609-large/2-supporti-cavalletti-regolabile-per-auto-supporto-cavalletto-einhell-bt-as-2000.jpg
chicken
EM - I would actually prefer a wider base myself but its hardly “dangerous” as is. In fact, his ramps are as wider or wider than the average jack stand base, and it wold take an awful lot of side force to push a car off of a pair of jack stands setting on a concrete driveway.
Still, he did make some mistakes. For example I would have glue the joints prior to nailing them. Also he wasted a lot of wood and made a lot of extra cuts for himself by not just cutting two tapered sections from one longer piece of wood. Just one angled cut down the middle and you have two identical taper cut pieces with no waste.
yard limit I’ve seen a car fall on a guy before. No chicken here. Just a man with common sense and a brain between the ears.
SLOBeachboy i get what your saying but if he would of just made some support on the bottom of them, it would prevent them from tipping. I’ve seen something like this in person and watched a car fall on a guy. Completely made me view car supports really differently.
Nice Job.
Damn! The video must have been cut short before the 'awesome, brilliant' part!
You can buy used metal car ramps cheaper than the wood you use. Metal ramps have a stop at the top and small rail on the sides to prevent the car slipping off.
Oh my God, the killer ramps!!!!!!
Slight push or bump sideways can cause a problem.....either widen the "footprint" of each ramp to prevent sideways tipping... or somehow tie the 2 ramps together when they are used. Makes me nervous looking at this..
If you make those ramps too steep the spoiler area under the bumper will get damaged or even torn out when the car goes up or down the ramps . The ramp must be long and gentle .
John H à
Impressive lights on a mini van. The safety gloves are a nice touch.
Not safe,at least it should be screwed not nailed. i would never go under my truck with these for sure.
obscur156 come on people,,,,,,,lighten up and learn to live a little more dangerously like this guy. you all act like you're afraid to have a car fall on you .
Loll
obscur156 screwed and glued
I suppose it depends on what country you are in and what materials are available. Here in the UK wood is expensive so buying steel ramps is a more worthwhile solution
They have been around for ever and are called car ramps you can buy them anywhere for a few quid including car boot sales.
Ok jones fire pts viva f
Can make them much cheaper than buying them
Too expensive
www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-GVW-Capacity/19526658?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2860&adid=22222222228017563421&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=60968599608&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-87559257888&wl5=9011274&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=19526658&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAzanuBRAZEiwA5yf4uuzqTRv4LNYcx3cr373jPr2USemj7euVL67eEDv-fnZDIRuJFQWdFxoCXsYQAvD_BwE. Sure you can lol
We have used wooden ramps for years without issues, but in the south they are made with cross ties or solid 6x6.
Too narrow. Get a trolley Jack and stands!
These will rot and break. Darwin awards anyone?
Stagger and stack them works better and less hazardous. Got them on the tow truck
a leadpen is way better than an inkpen. more accurate, and shouldnt the nailgun be adjusted to punch in the nails properly so you dont have to use a hammer afterwards?
Or use screws...
Markers are used by people who never do exact work. A number of the people making videos here are uncapable and have no knowledge of measuring, marking, cutting, drilling, welding ….. I could go on and on! All they can do is push the button to take pictures/make videos. I would be ashamed to show some of the stuff that some others make here. Rotton wood, rusty steel...just paint over it and present it. We are living in a world today where people do not take pride in what they do.
have you ever heard a real nail gun ...they bang ...not a zip noise thats an auto feeder drive ...dry liners use them ...hes only knocking it tighter
dont mean i condone this video ....its a big no ...ramps are certified ,the only your certifying doing this is eventually ,your own death !!!
Why would you need to hammer the screws after you screw them in with the screw gun?
Look guys! Someone finally "invented" that thing we have all been needing to lift our vehicles up to get work done! Now if only there was a more reliable, affordable, easily accessible way to get ramps just like those..... This guy is an absolute "genius".
you cant burn them tho
Awesome brilliant! First person to build DIY workshop ramps! And: -
- too narrow for safety
- stop blocks too close to the end for safety
- too steep for the material used
- heavier than commercially available. Also probably more expensive and bigger.
I made a set and realised what a load of rubbish. I went on to make a second pair what was not as steep only to find that any type of dampness on the tyre's it just slips on the wood on the way up. But on the up side the wood kept my workshop nice and warm ☺
The little wheels are insane clever good thinking bro u may also get the mini van a new clutch
Uma dica, e se fizer uma base móvel , para tirar a rampa e ter mais espaço ?
Ramps are inexpensive and in that rare event of a failure, the manufacturer may be liable. Home made...the manufacturer is still liable.
MANY times you need to remove the wheels to make important repairs (brakes, suspension, steering, etc), as well as have the vehicle lifted AND LEVEL - that is why we have JACK STANDS that load at SPECIFIED LOCATIONS identified in the vehicle's documentation. BE SMART
No way I would use those. Held together with nails!
It's plenty enough reinforced. No need to worry about the nails.
I tend to agree but my dad had a rickety old set he used for years. Hard to believe he died of old age
i have some nice steel ramps,but i use my floor jack and jack stands 90% of the time,since it is super fast and safe imo...plus you can lift cars up exactly where you need them to be...
Thats 6 mins 31 seconds i will never get back in my life. Dont use them completely unsafe would be safer cutting them to 2ft lengths and nailing them together. Them jack the car up and use them as blocks under the wheels!!
I designed a set of car ramps based of this video, it was my girlfriend who said i should build some instead of buy some so thats what i plan on doing. Got the design in autocad and everything ready to go for tomorrow and im very excited to get cutting and making. Thank you for the design idea. only things i changed was how long the base extends out past the angled part of the ramp, a slight angle on the back stop so the weight is more over the middle of the stands and mice will be made out of 1 inch thick pieces with a 9.125 inch base to drive up so it extra stable since my car rims are 17 x 7.
Terrible design. No glue, no screws - even with that micro-car you can see the wood starting to separate. The angle is too steep - the bumper on this tiny car is rubbing as it approaches and you can see he had to add a small piece of timber as a step because the car was clearly going to push the ramp along, rather than drive up onto it.
A nail gun is great for tacking a panel onto a frame, not so good for something subject to multiple forces in different axes.
Just an overall poorly-designed item.
Mike Thornbury - they’re pretty good if you want to have your skull smashed in tho...
If you don't use screws, then you are. PS a good adhesive is a good idea also.
They sell metal ramps cheaper than you can get the planks for like already been said here. And whats the gloves for its new clean stuff you use here.
1 year of oil change then death by a falling car smashed in the face 🤔🤔🤔i will give one of those to my exwife yes 🤩🤩
I made some from wood 25 years ago. The only cutting I did was on the length. 12 6' - 2x8 lumber boards. 2 cut to 5 1/2'. 2 cut to 5'. 2 cut to 4 1/2'. 2 cut 4'. 2 cut 3 1/2'. 1 of each size laid on top of one another and screwed together with countersunk wood screws. Worked just like it was 2 solid cuts of wood. Seems like I used a small piece to each ramp to act as a stabilizer on the back of each ramp. And they could be used on nearly any surface. Even in the yard. Try that with a metal ramp, and the weight of the front end will drive it into the ground.
This was actually the opening scenes from an episode of Casualty
I would not go under it even drunk, tight shiny and without glue, if you push for work you can crush them maybe they are full right?
Not me I will stay with my welded ones of steel that are wider than the tire by a inch on both sides they wont kill me !!!
How much did they cost to make . Just purchased a old used set solid steel ones for £10
I built these. I died after the third time using them.
Rip
Iknow. I had to bury you. And your stupid ramps.
So please, please, please, can you tell me , how is te live after death ? is there more stupids like this? crushed by a car because they used cheap wood ramps ?
😂😂😂
GOSTH EXIST !!
The ramp should be twice the width of tire. There need to have a stopper to prevent the car from rolling forward or backward on the ramp.
Or for $50 go buy steel ramps
Also glad everyone feels the same way i do about this silly idea
For 50 bucks yur getting shitty pot metal from china. Plz use proper steel ramps.
andrademeza fifty bucks gets you a decent set of ramps. Perfectly capable of supporting a vehicle. It’s idiots putting lateral load on the ramps that causes them to bend or warp.
Operator error, not product flaw. I have never seen even the cheapest of metal ones have problems when properly used
Does it hurt when you get crushed to death by a car or is it one of those things where it's over before you even know what's happening?
Why no glue? Always a great idea with wood. Imho😁
Nail and screw is better and more safety
Glue and screw would be safest, not just nails. That was his point.
Yep. Glue and clamp wood.
The nail is the clamp for a glue up of this type.
If they were made from 2x12 lying one on top of another instead of sideways it would be great and safe. They would be a little heavy but not bad with the rollers.
Я б под эту машину не полез б бы
зачем так рисковать?
А что будет упоры под задние колеса и все,не очкуйте
For your Barbi jeep?
There is nothing "brilliant" about this. Spending a day to build a pair of ramps you can buy online for $35.00 is idiotic.
Bought 2 sets of rhino ramps, the trip to Walmart was almost not worth it.
@@jaycarl1562 I've had the same set of rhino ramps for years, works great.
Where I live they cost about 100 if u find wide and long enough for wide tire and low bumper, so yeah it's worth it to do it yourself, but not this guys method, but simple lying them flat on top of each other. This guy wanted to save material or not sure what's his goal was but I wouldn't use these
Said the guy who never built anything with his own hands
@@Xy9d Nope, says the guy who knows the value of time.
Good job. Can you make them wider with grooves on the main plank and anti slip pads underneath.
Steel ramps are cheaper and weigh a whole lot less than those bohemoths you created. I think he just wanted to show off his stapler.
Hello great video could you write me the measurements?
like a ticket to haeven
Its probably cheaper to buy ramps, the cost of lumber is probably more than a pair of even new ramps. While wood is fully capable of supporting what appears to be about a 3,000 lb vehicle, the ramps need to be wider. It looks like it could be toppled sideways with a good push sideways. A thinner or second ground plank would make getting started on the ramps easier to prevent slide out.
Buying proper ramps would also likely make storage easier as many nest together for storage.
Store bought ramps would also be lighter and wouldn't need to have wheels to move them around.
I think he should at least use jack stands so his wife doesn't come back from vacation and find a skeleton trapped under his car...
Add some type of rubber to the bottom to keep the stands from sliding. No wide enough for me, could tip over.
This is not safety
Why.?
Keijo Viitanen because he’s under a truck supported by hollow wooden structures. And he’s supported by the end grain (the weak part of the wood). Those things will fracture and splinter over time and eventually fail. He is an idiot for getting under that truck. Had he made them solid and had all wood mounted horizontally, then he would be fine.
I did it out of solid wood and it works good.
Не, если основание шире сделать конструкция будет надёжнее, вероятность упасть машине снизится до 20%
what Gauge NAILER ? 16G
Good Video
accident waiting to happen.
Block the back tires
Cost of the wood + time + safety.....Just buy metal ramps for about $50-75....They will last a life time....I know someone who was crushed to death working on a car...
RallyDon82
very dangerous
to high and to small. should be much wider... and no grip on the wood... metal ramps cost less then 50€
Proper ramps are actually even less - you can get a pair of 2.5tonne rated metal ramps with tread and sides/wheel guides from an Autoparts store or ebay for around $30-$40.
My dad made his own just like that . he made them out of railroad ties, and he put on rollers that was back in the 60s
It could use some more though, but at least you left a spot in the back to store your mary jane.
Oh and you could buy them cheaper than what you paid for the 2X10's
and safer too! Those look tipsy asf
Those tape measure diagonals though
Needs to be wider and more core support. If there is the slightest movement these will twist and crush you. Take caution build it right
I am an Experienced Woodworker All I have to say is "LOL", Next Time you make a video Use measurements that people can see
The bottom plank should extend forward to prevent tipping ...
The wood cost more than a factory metal pair from any car shop 🤦♂️
Good Job I made some similar 25 yrs ago and no problems my neighbor also made some after he seen mine!!!
NO way would I go under a car using these " ramps"..buy the right equipment, not some weekend warriors DIY project.! your life will depend on it..
I will donate these to the kids in my neighborhood these will make good ramps to jump on their bikes
I don't like! It isn't prove safe for me! Brazil É nois na fita manuuu
These ramps don't rip off the bumper?
Look for this on the next installment of the Darwin Awards.
Don't use two By's, they will split, and drop the car. Even if you sandwich and screw them together, they can split, dropping the car. I made ramps using Scrap Plywood, sandwiched, glued with construction adhesive, and screwed together. Put a sandwich Plywood stop on the ends. Yes they are heavy, but I drag them around with rope attached to the ends. Nothing is hollow on my ramps.
Nothing special.I made it about 4 years ago from 4 by 4 wood and I could use it even for my sprinter van but they were very heavy. It is not worth it ,really.
I'd like mine to be wider and having a lower angle of lifting, to prevent front bumper damage. Wouldn't choose wood for this sort of heave weight.
And that's the story of how a youtube video crushed my arm.
я бы сделала их как минимум в 2 раза шире, но идея шикарная) мне такие нужны)