Automatic Sliding Gate Motor Controller Repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- LER #341 I was asked to repair the motor controller from the automatic car park gates at a gated community. I've never looked at one of these before, but it's all just electronics at the end of the day, yeah?
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Thank you
Richard
I enjoyed the troubleshooting video Richard. I agree with you that water likely caused a short between the tracks which caused the damage. You could easily verify the motor is working with your power supply. It is likely a 24 volt dc motor with brushes. Also the gearbox might be worth checking. When you drive the motor with a power supply you can verify that it’s not drawing too much current and the gearbox mechanism is in good shape.
The board on that is standing upright on the left side of the PCB is the decoder 433 or 315 MHZ. The fact that the light is green indicates the PCB is repaired.
However, in order for the motor to work, there must be a series of conditions met. NC sensor should always be open (No car or people in the gate). Also, maybe looking at the instruction manual helps to figure out how to reprogram the remote.
I use an RTL-SDR usb radio pen to see if the remotes are ok. Probably, from the corrosion there were rat feces or other stuff in there which is highly corrosive and sometimes resoldering the resistors near the output is enough to get it working again. Just a thought but I believe you DID repair the board sucessfully :)
Thank you for your time and for teaching people like me to get better at whatever it is we are doing. Merry Christmas to you and your Family :)
Ps: the spring is an endstop switch to stop the motor when the gate hits that point. The other empty connector actually just goes to a bit of wire to serve as antenna. All the reception and decoding is done on the upright pcb.
Thank you likewise, as I mentioned at the start I have never seen one of these before so was approaching it purely from an electronics point of view. I learned a great deal from various comments on this video 😊
There looks to be a black plastic cover on the housing and I wondered if that was for a wired remote to be plugged in, to allow for direct service testing without a remote, as it looks like a winch controller socket.
Great video. I'm loving all the information I'm learning. Good brain food 😁
waiting for such a video on this topic. I have also installed and repaired the gate automations. Moisture or insects are usually to blame for such damage, but if insects, then they have made a short circuit on the soldering points. This year there were two cases where Arion vulgaris burned holes in the board.
Hmm, though we are part of Spain we don't get many of those in the south of Gran Canaria, probably because we have about 90mm of rain a year.
HEY ALL CAPS GUY HERE. YOUR SMART FOR MAKING VIDS REGULARLY. VERY GOOD. ALOT I MEAN ALOT OF YOU TUBERS DON'T UNDERSTAND THAT'S THE NO 1 THING YOU HAVE TO DO TO SUCCEED ON YOU TUBE. IF OTHERS CAN'T DO THAT THEY WON'T SUCCEED ON ANY YOU TUBE PLATFORM
Love the variety of repairs !
Like others said, I suspect that spring is engaged or disengaged by some piece of the rack (driven by the motor pinion gear) to signal gate travel end stops. While the remote receiver should work in such close proximity, you may be correct that there are some external safety devices that signal the controller that it is safe to operate and without those connected, it won't move since these things usually fail open, i.e. require an active signal to indicate safe operating condition. The line fuse of a newer CAME unit is rated 5A, so 6A is probably the correct rating. Nice walkthrough, Richard!
Are you sure its a 6amp i'm sure i can see a decimal point maybe 1.6 A diagram would be useful
Having worked on a variety of automatic gate controllers from Came means that I have come across this problem many times. This gate controller is installed at ground level and in most cases vermin enters the enclosure to keep warm. More often than not they urinate where they want to. In this case they have done this just by the fuse which shorted across the incoming mains probably blowing the creature to bits. Getting a connection drawing from the Came website is so easy and then you will have clear indication as to what the connections are. Incidentally, the springy thing sticking out at the rear by the gear is the limit switch, pushing one way tells the unit the gate is closed, pushing it the other way tells it, it is open. regards, Geoff.
That is horrible, but I couldn't help but laugh
Thanks for the info - I never saw one of these before but I learned a lot from the comments here and I suspect some other viewers did too.
Hi Dicky, can let us know how it went with the repair, when you returned it to the owner, please ? Great video mate 🤙🏼🇦🇺
It's effectively a rack and pinion arrangement.
Heya, to bad you couldn't test it till the end but seeing those blown tracks that must have bean a nice short
I wonder if you had attached some wire to the antenna block if it would have received a signal and reacted?
There are probably limit switches in the geabox. If those go out the motor will over travel and pull excessive current with physical limitations of the gate.
“Rack and Pinion” drive.
You may want to glue/secure the replacement fuse holder to help protect it from vibration.
awesome job Richard :) super fault finding technique :)
The Operator could be tested with buttons on the board as that's where all the fine-tuning and testing is done during installation and or servicing. I believe this is the Came BX-324 Slide Gate Operator.
Great video Richard, thanks for sharing. In your experience, how often is it that the microcontrollers with all sorts of boards rather than the electrical components such that the entire board couldn't be salvaged?
Thermal runaway. Even under 6A, the LLCR of a failing connection will slowly create a resistance at the pads that becomes greater than the traces can handle and further erode the trace until it cannot handle even the low current draw.
The two blown tracks are adjacent to each other, one is live via the fuse and the other is neutral - I suspect some sort of liquid got there.
I think i would have cut the traces right back and put insulated link wires in , just to be completely sure no arching will happen in the future where that trace blew , with it having water ingress , im probably being over safe
Good bit of diagnostics, especially considering you have not seen one before.
CAME ZN4 is a common enough slide gate unit.
The remote receiver is on the board, a little board on the left of the panel it should run regardless of having an aerial..
The reason it does not run is probably because the limit switch (Spring stuck out on the back) needs to be to one side so the controller knows the gate position.
There is a possibility the ULN2003 To the right of the processor is stuffed looking at the corrosion on the lower part of the board but easily removed and tested of replaced.
It controls the relays ans as you rightly say is a buffer-driver for the CPU.
Water tracking is the most likely cause of the flashover as you can see around the positor .
Insects tend to vaporise, in 45 years I have only found remains just into double figure's where there has been insect related flashover.
Repaired at least half a dozen of those boards and probably a couple of hundred other types.
They rarely fail but when they do they can be interesting lol
Thanks for the info - I am learning as much as anyone else. ULN2003 is very common on things like motorised disco lights also and I am very familiar with it since the 1980s, I have them in stock so I will just change it for a new one and keep the original one maybe for making a video on these ICs 😉 You help is much appreciated
That fuse looks brand new ..replaced by client after failure??
That's what I was thinking.
The reason for the track on the top might be a creepage/clearance requirement.
Tracks and particularly vias can arc if they are too close, even at "low" voltages, like 240V.
Hi. Thank you. Maybe you can bypass the sensors to test the motor
you can operate it with a pushbutton inside,or via the key contact,pretty simple to detect on the aux connector
Oh, OK. There is a button on the PCB - if someone knows more about these things I will give it a try. As the blown tracks were on the primary side of the transformer I think it is more likely that water or some other liquid got onto that side of the PCB, and this really should not cause any damage to the rest of the circuitry. I'm fairly confident it will work now
I think the reason the track blow was due to water damage, As an electrician3 when i was doing a design. erection and verification course we did an experiment with a short length of earthed conduit and a nail a bout 300mm away connected to live conductor with a 1Ampere fuse, and small amount of water between, The fuse did not blow but after a short amount of time the water fizzled and the wood started to carbonize, if left it could have caused a fire. with water across the line and neutral on the board this would cause the trace to melt and not blow the 6Ampere fuse.
I think you are correct - the two burnt tracks are live (via the fuse) and neutral. I also think it is a bad design to have these two tracks adjacent to each other like that, and quite unnecessary too.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair That was my thought as well. Before returning it to service I would insulate the repaired track and fuse holder lead to prevent arcing the next time it gets wet - maybe some liquid electrical tape - messy but effective. Regards, David
@@davidv1289 was looking to see if anyone else commented this, thats what i thought , when you get a burn like this the board can become less insulating , or even become a conductor from carbon tracking, like Richard said this is probably bad design the tracks are too close together
It looks like it was an long lasting arc between the track and near fuse contact? But how it can start under coating - maybe some acid, like from dead insects, that eats thru?
Dog pee. Those units are low down handy for dogs to scent mark.
Sounds very likely!
hi they had one at the place were i worked very easy to jam up all the time steal rod in the gears some one did and killed it
they payed alot for it they are not needed at all
remote led should be a solid red check battery for 12v and not week batt spring .spring thing is a micro switch gate looking for gate shut then open
I don't have a battery attached on the bench
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Hello remote fob has a 12v battery
led should come on solid red when button pressed
I think you're brave relying on your video being available to aid reassembly - in the event that it's not viewable you've a bit of a problem. I always take photos - instantly verifiable that they're ok, and uploaded to the cloud for backup. That fuse looks suspiciously new - maybe that was put in after the silver foil caused yje smoke to leave :-). Not got very far in yet, but there will be limit switches on the gate to stop it at end of travel and both extremes - you'll likely have to use some jumpers in their place to get the actuator to work when you've fixed it... Edited to add: If that fuse was fitted after the board was burnt, it's possible that the fuse rating was 1.6A or some other value - not that 1.6A seems enough maybe, but the motor gearing is very low for high torque.
I guess I am just used to my video recording system being really quite reliable. However your belt and braces approach is sensible. I wonder before digital cameras and smart phones (which is not very long ago actually) did you keep the preliminary sketches along with the artists proofs 😅
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Lol - I've not been seriously into electronic repairs for long enough for that to have been much of an issue, but I did used to note where connectors etc. went on scraps of notepads, fag packets and such like.
Motor rating plate shows 170W - so it's possible that it was supposed to be a 1.6A fuse. Maybe a surge blew the fuse and the track at the same time - which would indicate that the MOV was "triggered"?
@@will_doherty I think. looking at it on video - the two mains voltage tracks which burnt are very close to each other (bad design really) and one is live via the fuse, the adjacent one is neutral. I think some sort of liquid got on that part of the PCB. Still a bit strange it did not blow the fuse though
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I'd suggest the fuse was changed, then when that didn't rectify the problem it was sent to you for repair. I have no idea of the inrush current into the transformer, but as I suggested earlier, that fuse is likely supposed to be 1.6A...
the motor will not move because you have no safety devices connected which are all wired normally closed. tha antenna symbol is for the radio which is the daughter board plus the spring ( above the pinion) is not detecting the limit stop on the gate, so the logic board does not know if the gate is open or closed.
wired back to front... fuse thus in neutral and track shorts via water ingress
EU plug ...easy to plug wrong way round
@@snowtiggr With an EU plug there isn't a wrong way round 🙄
1:40 rack and pinion
Didn't have you a oszilloscope??
Voltmeter OK,,, live messurement is better.
Your other Videos are super amazing and intresting🖖🖖🖖.
Yeah I have five oscilloscopes now but none of the them are Australian 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Super reply. Still laughing.
8:25 - Until I check with multimeter beeper, I dont believe its intact. Low chance but what if fuse is marked wrongly? What if its 10A fuse with marking 6A? Burn marks mark the spot, maybe protective cover cracked because of weather effects then water came in and made that short/burn mark at that position and killed something else.
There was power running through it at the end of the video, so it cant have been open
How is the legality of fixing mains voltage stuff in Spain? In most western countries the insurance companies don't like it without papers...
Nice one! How much did you charge for that repair?
Repairing a PCB like this with burn damage to a couple of tracks, assuming there are no other faults, would be €50
Going off the size of that mov it's mouse shit and I wouldn't be surprised if it had a piss as well as for what's wrong with it ? That's your job 😂👍
Maybe the water damage corroded the track, and the 220V arced over and burned the track totally.
HEY. ALLLL CAPS GUY HERE.
HEY. YOU KNOW HOW THIS HAPPENS
YOU KNOW. THE FUSE HAD A FAILED SOLDER JOINT AND WAS CONDUCTING THROUGH A HAIR LINE SIZE TRACK ANX THAT HAIR LINE TRACK TURNED RED FLAMING HOT. YOU KNOW THAT
There was also a dodgy pin in the fuse holder but I think resistance there would have melted the bottom of the fuse holder. Also your theory does not explain the damage to the adjacent (neutral) track. Much more likely ingress of some sort of liquid.
It may don't move also because the safety photocells are missing, the relative line is open so it thinks there's an obstacle in the way.
In that case it Will always open...
@@rsinfopc Not always. It depends how some dip-switch are setted.
So, you have mices to La Palma too ?!
Oh yes mices we have - our cat Munchito loves them. He brings them into the house and plays with them - but does he kill them? No. He just plays with them and terrifies them. When we find one cowering in the corner we have to catch it and let it go. Hopefully far enough away so he doesn't find it an bring it back in again 😋
Use a self (external) powered usb hub
It is a powered one. The only things attached to it are that camera, my keyboard and mouse
Lightning damage
Paul Daniels not the magician had usb hub issues. You might need an esd usb hub. th-cam.com/video/Hz7APydVFlU/w-d-xo.html.
That main fuse may well be f1.6A. MOV probably fired of. unless the transformer wire scuffed on something.
my first thought was that cog looks awfully rusty. a wire brush and a touch of oil wouldn't do it any harm
Good repair but I think i would have stabilised the replacement fuse holder with a dollop of hot snot
Yeah I could do that, it's still here until Monday
With that red button on the board, you can test the motor.