A Quick Project! 3d Printed Handle with Gyroid Infill & Resin!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- Ah, I do love a quick project!
Also, do you know which rule I broke of mine on this project?!
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I wonder why gyroid gave such problems with curing compared to the other infill molds you have made.
The maze patterned one was all open to the top of the mold but I'm a little surprised the 3d honeycomb didn't have more issues.
@@peterbrownwastaken I just realized, gyroid is a nice pattern for printing since it's so tight even at low percentages, but that makes it worse for resin. I bet lowering the infill percentage would help. Excellent work!
@@xenontesla122how does it make it worse? I see these vids with like 10 gallons and it's like 10 inch thick and nothing goes wrong
@@attainableapex Too thin a layer of resin will cure too quickly; not enough mass to distribute the heat efficiently enough to the cooling edges. If the infill was metal, I wonder if it would have worked better? Opening up the pattern most likely would have, too.
My guess partly, as side from the temperature side of the ideal gas law, is that the gyroid pattern is giving lots of small ridges that act kind of as nucleation sites. As dissolved gas is compressed, it’s allowed to catch and roll up the slopes of the infill to collect and get trapped. The holes in the final project look a little too consistent in their distance from eachother and that they form almost lines correlating to high points in the pattern
Edit: I believe keeping the pattern but reducing the amount of flat surfaces somehow would fix the issue of bubble formation. If the infill was somehow strings instead of flat planes the dissolved gas would collect and when big enough rise to the top. After reinspecting, there are clearly lines of bubbles that form in little pockets of the pattern. However the method, those pockets need holes in them
I much prefer an actual video over shorts.
Same. I tell youtube to stop showing me shorts every time it tries.
100%
Same, content is excellent, but the way they're presented is just horrid.
I was going to say something like this thinking I was the only one lol. Def prefer real videos!
No one cares
I just want to say thank you for including all the shorts in the video, I'm really not a fan of the format, and trying to keep up with a series of videos there was a pain. I missed half of them.
(to be clear I'm not saying don't make them. If you enjoy doing that format then go for it, but a compilation video upload of them now and then for people like me is really appreciated.)
The real irony is you did a resin project in January and it still consistently overheated, the exact opposite of the usual problem. Glad you stuck with it so we could see the result though.
I know you said you didn't want to do this again... But hear me out... Glow in the dark plastic with a translucent resin. Also, I recommend using something other than PLA for this, and go really low with the infill percent, like 5 or 8 percent. Also, I like the idea of the hollow center in the print. And you could do 0 walls in the settings so the resin can flow through the sides and inner diameter.
Act as a straw of sorts. I was going to suggest the same thing. Fill from outside of the straw/flute/whatever terminology chosen.
I really appreciate that the fact hes one of the few people on TH-cam still showing us his failures.
The Crafting Gods hear "this should be a quick and simple project" and reply "bet"
I'm having areally rough evening, mentally, and watching you create something, even if it didn't work as you planned, really helped me calm down and ground myself before slipping into a downward spiral.
Thank you, Peter, for being a comfort channel for me since back just before I went off to university.
Don't really like shorts, so happy for a video 🤗
IF you try again, since you are using very slow setting resin, try filling and then using a vacuum chamber to get the bubbles to expand and flow up and then pressure pot to compress any remaining micro bubbles. The air pockets in this last attempt look like they are all in specific folds of the gyroid pattern and coiled have just been. Areas that could not evacuate the bubbles well, Great video and thanks for all the attempts!
i second this. vacuum might fix the finish. vacuum chamber then pressure pot
Hey,
I don't really know you, but boy do I appreciate your format. I really appreciate that you made a follow up using shorts, and as it got longer, turned into a video, but especially: Adding the shorts for those that missed it. I personnaly found this project via shorts, but I'm also pretty sure I am missing 90% of the shorts of my subscriptions, because that is not what I'm into.
I don't generally watch shorts, so I'm really glad you made a video about this.
You're doing what I intended to do when I bought my 1st 3D printer 9 yrs ago, but never actually did. You're braver than me.
I couldn't click fast enough, glad to see you again man.
Something that could be explored, the black color could accelerate the resin, we had that happen at work a few years ago, a black dye made all our resin injections overheat, even when it was a second layer with no dye but the first coat was dyed with that black
You learned your followers are still here, still enjoying. 😎
When is the “Now that’s what I call Shop Time” album hitting iTunes and Spotify where Peter just covers music in his awesome voice?
This is one of youtube's best channels
Loved watching the process! Even if it's not exactly what you pictured, it still turned out awesome!
Would it make a difference if the pattern was only on the outer perimeter of the turning instead of all the way through it? Do something like a hollow tube in the middle with the pattern just around the outside and then place that into a vessel of resin? Maybe pre-fill the hollow tube first? Maybe last to allow the pattern to accept the resin and cure with the hollow tube as a way for the heat to disperse? Just throwing ideas out there. Idk what the heck I’m talking about.
This was my first thought, since 3d printing allows a lot of versatility. If you know roughly the shape you want the end product to be, you could print it to have structure mostly only where you know it'll show vs throughout. You could also potentially have a solid core so that resin isn't even in that area, thin it out where to you will actually see it mostly plus a bit for cohesion. Potential even to combine the two so you could slot in a core of something that would help heat transfer more than plastic and give a little weight to it.
I'm convinced the issue is that the plastic is insulating the resin, so I don't think this will help
i think it looks awesome!! we write off natural wood knots and cracks as part of nature but beat ourselves up when our machine parts arent flawless... i think the end result looks really awesome and tells a great story of trial and error. you did great! excellent work
For sponge-like materials like gyroid infill, relying on gravity and then positive pressure probably isn't cutting it. You'd probably get better results with an initial vacuum pull to get the majority of the air out. If you try that, I'd include a reservoir cone at the top in the print.
On a different topic, while getting into resin, I had an idea. I've been dumping residual resin (both liquid and trimmings) into a "trash" cup. I don't have a lathe, but think that has potential for a really neat handle blank.
That'd be interesting if you get a few different kinds of resin mixtures in there and soak it all into some new thing
I love watching you come up with solutions to interesting problems!
Thank you for including the shorts in the video!
While it has some imperfections, I think it turned out pretty great. It looks amazing to me. Thanks for the shorts and longer video. This was a fun process to watch
Boom lets go
Also, you could use various infills, start with a blank plate, right click and add primitive, set to size you desire, then half it, zero bottom and top layer, add another on top, then under objects, select the new prim and also change that to zero bottom and top but change the infill pattern, size etc etc.
You can play around with many of them in different placements with different infills, when lathed there be various of shapes.
Just a thought.
Thank you for the Oingo Boing serenade. I’m so old I saw that in the theatre way back….
I couldn't help but sing along with you, Onigo Boingo is one of my faves
Good lord that Grey/Silver is treating you well looking fabulous my man.
Been a fun journey to watch! Excited for the reveal in the full video.
While Danny Elfman is no longer associated with Oingo Boingo, there is a band called Oingo Boingo Former Members that is all the people from Oingo Boingo with a new singer. I've seen them 4 times and they have been amazing each time. I think they're done traveling and touring, but they will still do some shows in California (?). If you like Oingo Boingo, they're worth seeing.
I mention all of this because Peter is singing "Weird Science" by Oingo Boingo while mixing the resin.
Bro, you're one of the most genuine TH-camrs sil making original content. I'm watching what ever you make regardless 🤘🤘
the SHAVINGS!!!
the shavings looked SO COOL.
I think your infill settings are probably fine, might suggest a different resin (for anyone else trying, you were very clear that you're done. 😂) Alumilite Clear Slow doesn't have overheating problems, and it cures in a few hours. LOVE the concept of both the past two videos. Very cool.
You learned a lot from these though! And the order in which you learned it all was fun. Good stuff as always!
Even though the results weren't perfect, it was still cool watching the progression.
hey! Gyroid infill has two sides, you could fill only one side of the Gyroid, then the second half on a second pour, (maybe a different color), that way you'll have good ventilation for heat dissipation on the first pour, also i believe a translucent resin would look so dope.
thanks for the content!
(Full Video > Shorts)
Actual video with you explaining the process over shorts
Really nice work, Peter!!!
But yeah, there's something weird with this pattern... Perhaps reducing the infil could help, making bigger voids, but... I don't know if it's worth a try either.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good Stuff Peter 🦾🦾
Good job following through with the research! 👍
My first thought watching was if that filament is pla, that overheating is caused by the super low melting temps. You would want to use at the least petg, abs, Asa, or polycarbonate filament. I use pla for things that will never get over room temp. The friction from the tool on the lathe will easily warm the pla.
One step further: Print a rectangular prism with this infill pattern and then cut off the sides. After this, paste the pattern alone in a wider recipient (Like a measuring cup) to allow all the bubbles to get out and don't overheat too much. And when it cures, cut to a proper size to use in the lathe.
Peter! No resin projects in January 😂
I love your long-form content but the shorts are a nice little treat for project bloopers or tests or small bits that don't warrant a full video. Keep making whatever content makes you happy, I'll watch it all
It looks awesome! Personally I think gyroid and resin projects should be it's own series like Dip It! 😂
Oh great! Now you’ve got that song stuck in my head!
Thanks for including the shorts.
Love your videos have done for a long time.
Just a thought but if you add a quarter inch U bend pipe from the bottom of the mould that rises up to the be level with the top of the mould to act as an air escape. It might be able to fill the mould without bubbles as the air could escape from the bottom and you would be able to tell the mould was full.
Hope that is as clear in words as it is in my head!
Keep up the great work please!
Hey I can actually contribute! I've been working with controllable gyroid generation for structural 3D prints for almost a year now in my research, specifically adjusting them for equal liquid flow throughout the structure. I know you said you're done but I'd be happy to send you 3d print files of exactly what you are looking for, I could even go ahead and have the gyroid be in the shape of the final handle post turning if you wanted. I spent a ton of time figuring out how to print them without external walls so it should be much easier to mold, degas, and turn plus they print without infill and without needing supports. I haven't tested with anything as viscous as resin but none of my liquid tests have shown any trapped air bubbles.
Let me know if you're interested! I really think you could get it first try with a proper gyroid field!
It was still great fun to watch!
Huh. Peter Brown knows all the lyrics to Weird Science.
Haha good job! And, you look soo good in grey hair! 👌😍
What might look cool is using a shape that leaves holes when you fill it with resin. Then after it's cured turn it on the lathe to reveal the holes. Then Stick it in a container and pour a different colour resin in which will fill in all the holes. After turning that down I'm sure it would look really nice having the 2 different colours.
All right, another Peter Brown video! Peter, I love how you show us what doesn't work as well as showing us the awesome stuff. That song really needed a lab coat and goggles, and those mad scientist black gloves. I'm seeing a future Halloween video...😁
Weird Science is one of my favorite movies!!!!
and Oingo Boingo is legendary, so many bangers
Is sub again just for that. Used to play that song (and she blinded me with science) doing my thermodynamics homework.
I added "the geeks were right" to that playlist more recently. Just in case anyone hadn't heard that one. 😀
You should reach out to totalboat and ask them if they would be interested in giving a tour of their facilities. You might even get to interact with their labs and talk to them about your struggles with heat and what they theorize you could do about it. XD
it's a good thing Oingo Boingo can only copyright the performance - one of my favorite songs, and you did it justice, sir!
You may be creating your own physics trap. If you’re leaving the mold to cure under vacuum or partial vacuum for the entire time, you’re essentially removing or reducing convection as way to get the heat out of the mold. Therefore you only have radiative and conduction. Radiative is reduced by being in a closed container. I would try leaving it in the vacuum pot just long enough to burp the mold. Ice might still be helpful, but it can be done in open air, where more ice can be added as needed, and temperature readings taken.
It’s not under vacuum, it’s under higher pressure.
@ Ahhh that’s even worse! Higher pressure equals more heat!
I searched something up on a whim, there is a vague possibility your mica powder could be accelerating the cure process and making more heat.
Maybe some sample pours on the side with and without the powder to see if there is any rate difference.
"Lightning" is an interesting infill pattern. Very organic/random looking and probably much easier to get resin to fill. --- I wonder if part of the problem is water. Most filaments are very hygroscopic. To the point that they make elaborate drying systems for them. All that surface area to absorb water which can then react with resin might be the issue.
I think I might need a compilation of all the times you break out into song because I always get a kick out of you singing.
I think black tail studio has a good method of fixing air bubbles in his tables
What about pouring in layers instead of one monolithic pour?
You've gotta add water in with your ice -- it can't transfer heat away fast enough with the air insulating things between the ice and the blank. And just put a whole bag or two in there. Fill up the pot. With water.
If the problem is the gyroid walls causing thermal breaks resulting in blocking heat travel out of the block or cylinder, try a dual interlocking gyroid pattern with a printed filling funnel on top of the blank for each part. Fill just one part and cure it so it can radiate heat into air in the other part. Then the second part has solid resin to conduct heat into.
I'd try Smooth-on Crystal Clear 200 urethane resin for casting thickness ranging from ½” to 3” at a casting weight maximum of 16 lbs. (7.25 kgs.) Castings greater than 3” should be layer cast. 20 minute pot life and 16 hour cure time, with full cure at 7 days. Post curing at 150F for 6 hours is recommended, especially for thin sections.
What Smooth-On doesn't mention is convection heat works far better than radiant heat, such as in an oven. I use an old food dehydrator that has a top temp on its dial of 145F. It works fine for what I've been casting for over 25 years with Smooth-On resins.
For vacuum casting use a container at least 2x the volume of your pressure pot.
Pull a vacuum in that as much as your pump can. Connect it to the pressure pot via hose or pile and a 1/4 turn full flow ball valve. When you open that valve it will almost instantly drop the pressure in the pressure pot a large amount. Soon as the sound stops, close the valve and turn the pump on then open the valve between it and the pressure pot to continue pulling it down. Let the air back in after a couple of minutes and pressurize the pot.
The saga is complete
You could easy port that into tinkercad and just stick an 1/3 inch open, walled cylinder inside of that gyroid infill pattern and that would leave the center open to reduce temp in the core.
I'm assuming you're using pla or abs. Could the material be reacting with the resin. Maybe petg or pc would work better. They tend to be more inert.
Love your videos
While I know you're done with this project, if you ever work with filling 3D printed parts with resin again, I really think you should switch to PETG instead of PLA.
I'm a cosplayer who uses resin to finish my prints, and while the coats of resin I apply to smooth prints isn't ever gonna heat up enough to melt a part, I can say that PLA props in my car have melted and deformed in Canadian summers, so I switched to PETG and no longer have that issue
100% a degassing issue, cure heat is a red herring.
3d prints (FDM specifically) are 'fluffy' on both the macroscale and microscale due to the layer lines and extruded plastic. That makes them exceptionally good at holding onto a layer of air when a viscous fluid (e.g. resin) is poured over them. Pressure alone isn't going to help get that gas layer out, the mould needs to be poured and then degassed in place. You can pressure pot after degassing, but that's very likely not necessary. Make sure you have a big cylinder or cone attached to the top of the mould to catch the bubbling resin as it degasses and channel it back down into the mould as the bubbles collapse.
3:34 OINGO BOINGO MENTIONED 🗣️🗣️🗣️
Omg you are grey. That makes me feel old but im glad you been makin things this long man
Didn't you say no more resin projects in January.
Unless he has a problem with overheating resin, in which case January is the best time to do it.
What filament are you using? How about trying a heat resistant filament. Nylon, ASA, ABS or PETG?
the imperfections add character
Here's a thought - use a higher heat resistance 3D printing filament like PETG or ABS. Or even Nylon if ya want to get real fancy.
"My 3D printed thingamajig keeps melting". You know there are a bout a billion different thermoplastic polymers, right? All with different properties.
I think you misunderstand the problem. The problem isn't the 3D print melting but rather the resin that he is flowing into the print starts to overheat and breakdown causing it to bubble and crack. its most likely because the weird geometry of the gyroid infill makes it so that the heat is not able to escape from the part causing it to thermally run away inside. It doesn't matter what he prints the part out of if the chemical reaction of the resin causes it to overheat because the heat can't escape.
Liked, shared and commenting.... maybie take a page from Evan and Katelyn about using a vibrating device when they where having holes in their cement projects. Couldn't hurt. Hugs from Esquimalt and so happy to see your videos and shorts.
I don't know if it would have made a difference, but packing ice around the mold is a great idea, but air is a fairly good insulator - pouring water into the ice bath would've made it more effective at cooling the resin because its a better transmitter of heat - I think it would've done a better job a dissipating that heat.
You could do larger gyroid. Like less infill. I think you'd like the results better.
Would be really nice if it was done with white plastic. I think the dark plastic kinda disappears in the darker coloured resin. There are also different filaments like PETG that might work better :)
I learned that I really want one of those cool magnetic bottle openers 😂
Try pouring your next handle in segments 1" at a time. With the right infill pattern I don't think the layer lines will be visible. It'll take another month to make it one layer at a time, but might be worth it.
Never done a resin poor in my life, but the way the resin sucks into the infill, it looks to me that vibrating the resin in the container will help getting rid of a ton bubbles.
Something you could have done (assuming you have the CAD modeling skills necessary) is to create a sealed inner core in the 3D print so that you only have about 1/4" of resin filled infill on the outer surface. This would greatly reduce the amount of resin thickness for curing.
You don't even need cad to be able to do that. You can make that entirely in the slicer.
Thanks for seeing it through!
Great project with the 3d printer. the best way i know is to fix pin holes in resin is to fill them with ca glue.
Would it make sense to print the structure with a resin printer? Ask some company like elagoo or anycubic if they want to send you one.
The PLA filament acts as an isolation layer, therefore it's more susceptible to overheating. I think that maybe using only an one-wall print, for less insulation might help
That weird science intro brought back so many memories.
I seem to remember some odd teenage boy using hairspray to fly around? What the heck was that series? I don't even know what to google!
Maybe could you pour the resin, then degas it in a vacuum chamber before the pressure pot? Maybe you have trapped air. Those cavities seem a little small and may not allow for all the air to escape before it starts setting up.
That’s the point of the pressure pot, isn’t it? It compresses fluids and gasses so that large bubbles will be squeezed out and smaller ones will be compressed to near invisible according to ideal gas law: PV = nRT. As pressure increases, volume (size) decreases proportionally.
Are we thinking somehow dissolved or undissolved gas in the resin is collecting into larger bubbles in gyroid fill, where a straight pour in the pressure pot has been shown to almost always reduce bubbles?
Edit: I see your point a lot better now. Those bubbles most likely never got pushed out of the mold to begin with, on top of the sloped planes creating nucleation sites. That mold needs to be evacuated of air somehow to avoid the problem
Is there a reason you don't fill it 3/4 full and then vacuum all of the air bubbles out then finish filling it and putting it into the pressure pot ? looks like pouring introduces a heck of a lot of air into the infill mold .
I probably missed it along the way, but have you been printing in PLA, or something with a better temperature resistance like PETG, ABS, ASA, or even Nylon? PLA gets soft are pretty low temps, but those other ones take a bit more. Also, what about a vacuum rather than pressure?
Glad to see a follow up video. I have shorts completely disabled on my feed as I do not like the format. Thanks for including the clips in this video.
Side note, I know you've got the pressure pot but I do wonder if those bubbles had something to do with the infill contacting the solid sides of the print and trapping air.
Curious how well it'd print with 0 perimeters on the slicer and then just submerge it in the cup of resin directly, it may help with trapped air.
Knowing the mass/density of the PLA and mass/density of the resin before curing, you should theoretically be able to work out what the completely filled blank should weigh. Anything not resin or PLA must be air in that cylinder.
If you used two different colors on the same structure, that would mean the first one has lots of air to transport the air out. Second fill might be still overheating..
But filling it up might be difficult. Though you could print tunnels to make it easy to fill two different parts of the structure.
rather than relying on an ice bucket to keep it cool what you need is a small dorm fridget that you can just put the pot into after you've pressurized it even if it means you have to drill a tiny hole in the door to fit a cord through lol
I can not think of a reason why the resin would overheat cause of the pattern. Some people claim something about heat-distrupution but that makes no sense: The entire material is heating up on its own and the pour is not too thick even without cooling.
But the bubbles: that is a product of how you do it. Resin mixed and no vacuum?
And a pattern like gyroid can be filled from the top but that will trap a loooot of air specially on the layer lines. One way to avoid that would be to press in the resin from the bottom with a syringe. That way the air is always pushed out and never trapped. could be as simple as adding a small hole at the bottom-end of the cylinder and a chamber inside so it can reach all gyroid channels equally well. then just press the resin in from that hole.
So add water to the ice bath. When you pull a vacuum anything not physically touching the print won’t conduct heat away from it since there’s no air to conduct.
How about using a thin walled copper pipe as the outer casing, then using ice as you did, should help with the heat transfer out of the epoxy? And can you pull a vacuum on your pressure pot?
I still think it turned out pretty cool! I wonder if printing a tube of infill instead of a solid cylinder would help distribute heat in the resin? After all, you only need infill as deep as the intended finished outer surface.