Really nice video and quite informative. I also make my own jig heads, one thing I would caution you for is....Get a small hand clamp or use channel locks to hold that mold. Your hand is way too close to the extremely hot lead. If it leaks out of the mold, your hand is toast. It can also splatter and burn the hands, wrist etc. Even if you wore gloves it's better than nothing. Always do something safely... especially when younger kids might be watching. Keep pouring!
Hi, thanks for the video & information After looking at some metal pre-fabed molds i've found a modification for the mold, cutting the mold at a point along the lengths of the shafts of the hooks so you could accommodate for different hook sizes (1, 1/0, 2, 2/0, 3, 3/0 & H's etc) as long as the diameter of the shaft of the hook stays the same. The hook & barb part would be outside of the mold (doesn't have to be in the plaster mold ) when you pour the lead. Hope that makes sense Cheers Steve Oz
Thanks and form Aus? AWESOME!!! No, I have not used silicone. Plaster is so cost-effective and works great for me, for both lead and plastics. Silicone is a bit more expensive.
For the separating agent? Yes. But it can't soak into the plaster. It has stay on the surface. I've even used furniture wax, etc. Petrolatum is quite cheap, so I use that.
There are 3 ways. Way 1: Buy the molds from Barlow's Tackle for about $50: barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Round-Head-Jig-Molds-Barb-Collar--P194/?afmc=v0 . They have MANY other molds to choose form as well. Way2: You have to have the CAD file [of the jighead you want to mold] for CNC machine to laser cut into an aluminum block. Way 3: You can build hard body baits (wood most likely) on your own, get casting sand and sink your wood blank into the sand. Then you need a steel (or metal material with higher melting point than aluminum) frame to put the sand mold into. Lastly, you need a melting pot that will heat up to at least 1,221 degrees F (melting point of aluminum). Option 2 is a LOT of work.
The mold will last quite a while as long as you're careful. I do recommend using the Perfect Cast plaster for longer, more durable mold, especially for pouring lead. When molding plastics for lures (swimbaits, flukes, etc), the temperature is much lower, it will last much longer if well taken care of.
I haven't done a LOT of research on all the silicones available and their heat resistances, butI've done a fair amount. The highest rated silicone I have found is the Mold Max 60, but....it only has a max temp rating of 560 degrees F/294 degrees C. With lead having a min melting point of 621.5 degrees F, it would melt the Mold Max 60. At 621.5, that's just the minimum. For best pouring results, mine is heated to about 850 degrees. Even regular RTV solicone is only rated to 600 degrees F.
Pewter starts to soften at about 471° and fully melted to pour at 620° - 645°F. At that temp, it's basically the same as lead at 624°F. Also, a pewter ingot is anywhere from 50% - 80% more costly than lead.
I think you mean layers, but I could be wrong. It all depends on what you molding. When molding for anything lead, you want the plaster mold to be thick - to hold up to the 624 degrees. I would say to 2x the thickness of the plaster to the lead you are molding. So, it I'm molding a 1/4oz jighead (approx. 1/3" in diameter), I'm making sure the top and bottom plaster pieces are up to 1" thick each. So the entire mold, for 1/4oz jigheads, would be about 2" thick. Again, it all varies with the size of the lead piece you are making a mold of. If the plaster is too thin, the heat of the lead will cause it to get super brittle and break. Hope that helps.
@JerrelBaker-vo8xv - You just gotta look a little bit. Here they are - if you want to get the aluminum mold: barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Round-Head-Jig-Molds-No-Collar-P198/?afmc=1fx or barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Round-Head-Jig-Molds-P197/?afmc=1fy You're welcome.
Lee 10lb Lead Melting Pot: barlowstackle.com/lee-10lb-lead-melting-pot-br110-volt-model-p345/?afmc=t9 I have added the updated links to the description for the melting pot and jighooks used for near shore (thin wire) and offshore (thick wire). Both are Victory hooks.
Best mold making video I've seen lately, thank you.
Yeeewww! There are plenty more to watch. Check out our "How-To" playlist 😉
Really nice video and quite informative. I also make my own jig heads, one thing I would caution you for is....Get a small hand clamp or use channel locks to hold that mold. Your hand is way too close to the extremely hot lead. If it leaks out of the mold, your hand is toast. It can also splatter and burn the hands, wrist etc. Even if you wore gloves it's better than nothing. Always do something safely... especially when younger kids might be watching. Keep pouring!
Thanks for watching and your concern.
This was one of the cleanest work I've seen. Great job :)!
EXCELLENT! Thanks for the compliment. Glad you enjoyed it and hope it helps.
Hi, thanks for the video & information
After looking at some metal pre-fabed molds i've found a modification for the mold, cutting the mold at a point along the lengths of the shafts of the hooks so you could accommodate for different hook sizes (1, 1/0, 2, 2/0, 3, 3/0 & H's etc) as long as the diameter of the shaft of the hook stays the same. The hook & barb part would be outside of the mold (doesn't have to be in the plaster mold ) when you pour the lead.
Hope that makes sense
Cheers Steve
Oz
That is correct.
Thank you for all your hard work.
Good produkt.
Cheers m8.
Thanks! Hopefully it was helpful for you!
Very good information. Thanks
You're welcome! Have fun!
Great vids mate all the way from aus……. question have you ever made a full soft plastic lure mould from silicon
Thanks and form Aus? AWESOME!!! No, I have not used silicone. Plaster is so cost-effective and works great for me, for both lead and plastics. Silicone is a bit more expensive.
Hi where did you get the lead cooker?
Check out the Storefront on our website, down in the Jighead Making section You can get from Barlow's or Amazon: startfishingtoday.com/storefront
Can i use any other oil
For the separating agent? Yes. But it can't soak into the plaster. It has stay on the surface. I've even used furniture wax, etc. Petrolatum is quite cheap, so I use that.
@StartFishingToday thank you. Love the vid.
@StartFishingToday i will use petrolatum as well, it does the job and is cheap 🙂
Looks like I’ll robbing my kids legos and playdough for a bit haha thanks for this video! My wallet appreciates it!
Excellent! Or you can buy them on amzn.
LEGO, the plural is LEGO, never LEGOS!
@@sirrichardpumpaloaf8154 damn dude. Save some 🐈 for the rest of us….
What's a good thickness for 1 piece or the mold to get as much life as possible out of the mold
I would go at least 1" thick plaster for each side. Plaster is too cheap to be cheap/skimpy on it.
@StartFishingToday how would you be able to make an aluminum mold?
There are 3 ways.
Way 1: Buy the molds from Barlow's Tackle for about $50: barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Round-Head-Jig-Molds-Barb-Collar--P194/?afmc=v0 . They have MANY other molds to choose form as well.
Way2: You have to have the CAD file [of the jighead you want to mold] for CNC machine to laser cut into an aluminum block.
Way 3: You can build hard body baits (wood most likely) on your own, get casting sand and sink your wood blank into the sand. Then you need a steel (or metal material with higher melting point than aluminum) frame to put the sand mold into. Lastly, you need a melting pot that will heat up to at least 1,221 degrees F (melting point of aluminum). Option 2 is a LOT of work.
Plaster Caster!!
Great video, thank you
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Did you use DAP plaster?
Pease see the description for products used. Most of your questions will be answered there 😉
How long will the mold last? Is the any showing of cracks or stress? Thanks
The mold will last quite a while as long as you're careful. I do recommend using the Perfect Cast plaster for longer, more durable mold, especially for pouring lead. When molding plastics for lures (swimbaits, flukes, etc), the temperature is much lower, it will last much longer if well taken care of.
One of the big reasons jigs are so high is the EPA on industrial lead producers.
Let's go with what you are saying is correct...PERFECT REASON TO MAKE YOUR OWN 👍👍👍.
Thanks 😊
You're welcome! More plaster diy for fishing coming soon!
Hi! Is that hot liquid tin or aluminum?
Neither. "Lead"heads...
Is it possible to do it with silicone instead of plaster?
I haven't done a LOT of research on all the silicones available and their heat resistances, butI've done a fair amount. The highest rated silicone I have found is the Mold Max 60, but....it only has a max temp rating of 560 degrees F/294 degrees C. With lead having a min melting point of 621.5 degrees F, it would melt the Mold Max 60. At 621.5, that's just the minimum. For best pouring results, mine is heated to about 850 degrees. Even regular RTV solicone is only rated to 600 degrees F.
Thank you so much
@@StartFishingToday Could always melt pewter which is lower temp.
Pewter starts to soften at about 471° and fully melted to pour at 620° - 645°F. At that temp, it's basically the same as lead at 624°F. Also, a pewter ingot is anywhere from 50% - 80% more costly than lead.
How many sets of legos did you use for the first set and the second. 3-6 hard to see.
I think you mean layers, but I could be wrong. It all depends on what you molding. When molding for anything lead, you want the plaster mold to be thick - to hold up to the 624 degrees. I would say to 2x the thickness of the plaster to the lead you are molding. So, it I'm molding a 1/4oz jighead (approx. 1/3" in diameter), I'm making sure the top and bottom plaster pieces are up to 1" thick each. So the entire mold, for 1/4oz jigheads, would be about 2" thick. Again, it all varies with the size of the lead piece you are making a mold of. If the plaster is too thin, the heat of the lead will cause it to get super brittle and break. Hope that helps.
Dove posso comprarlo il macchinario per fondere il piombo come questo del video ?
Here - barlowstackle.com/lee-10lb-lead-melting-pot-br110-volt-model-p345/?afmc=t9
I will be doing this mold because I can't find 1/32 & 1-64 no collar jig heads.
@JerrelBaker-vo8xv - You just gotta look a little bit. Here they are - if you want to get the aluminum mold:
barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Round-Head-Jig-Molds-No-Collar-P198/?afmc=1fx
or
barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Round-Head-Jig-Molds-P197/?afmc=1fy
You're welcome.
I'm not doing production molds. I'm looking forward to other video where you can use different hook sizes.
what's the machine called
Lee 10lb Lead Melting Pot:
barlowstackle.com/lee-10lb-lead-melting-pot-br110-volt-model-p345/?afmc=t9
I have added the updated links to the description for the melting pot and jighooks used for near shore (thin wire) and offshore (thick wire). Both are Victory hooks.
From the point this mold is right you could go on to use this as the forms to make ALUMINIUM molds from
Hey man you should start selling some of the swim baits you make I would buy some
Thanks for the compliment. However, at this time, retail is not in the list of top focuses. Thank you for watching!
Great video. (The plural of LEGO is LEGO….no such thing as LEGOS!)
Ain't no way!