How to replace front upper control arm 2003-2011 Ford Crown Victoria Full Detail with adversity.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2022
- Precision brand control arm purchased through O'reilly's auto parts for 91 dollars. The hardware is garbage that comes with the kit. Be careful.
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... okay-- removing the coil is EXACTLY what I needed to see. The control arm bolts are behind it.
Yup. We were really hoping to not have to do that but there is no choice.
Getting ready to do mine soon. Thanks for showing this.
No problem 👍good luck System!
@@PNW_Car_Mods I keep forgetting that I'll change my title. My name is Julio.
@@Pantherforlife I like that name. :)
Great video. If I attempt this next spring Im definitely using an impact to get that ball joint bolt out. I thought an impact on that bolt wasnt recommended until now. I have a 04 Town Car with the same setup. Ive owned it 12 years and I know my front suspension has never been touched.
Good luck!
As long as you don’t mess with the tie rod ends, your alignment should be fine. Just remember to torque the bushing bolts with pressure on them from the jack so they don’t twist.
All good points Media Guy.
Done this job several times on my "fleet".. Never had any issues with those UCA bushing bolts which includes rust buckets from NJ. I'd recommend basically always reusing the factory hardware vs the Chinese garbage that comes with the replacement parts as you discovered. You might be able to save a little not completely removing the strut, but leaving the bottom shock bolt in and just having someone stand on the LCA and leaning it forward enough to slide in/out the bolts. Definitely not my favorite job.
Yeah it's been a minute since we did this. I think I remember I felt like we were wasting more time trying to think of how to get this part that the decision was made to just grab the impact and knock the big bolt out of the lower shock mount and be done with it. I find myself as I get older that I wasted too much time overthinking things lol. More doing and less thinking. Thanks for checking it out!
First, and watching.
Don't forget medium strength thread locker on the nut behind the steering wheel.
-Chuck
I go full strength and use red loctite lol
What nut behind the steering wheel?
@@PNW_Car_Mods Dont you Have TO wELD iT ???
@@user-pj9ge7fl6g absolutely a possible option but very semi permanent.
Great video Mr. Black! You can call me Mr. Brown! Just kidding! This video is so informative. I am starting on a 1999 Crown Vic. Can you tell me where exactly to place the jack stands so as to step by step thru this and how to remove the spring & struts without hurting myself! I wish I had you two guys helping me...Best Regards, Louis Martinez
Louis follow the video slowly and pause where needed. You can see where the jack stands are placed. If we can do it anybody can. Also if you go to an older video of ours the one where we first lowered the car we show how to remove the spring from the strut using a spring compressor. Good luck sir!
That's what you get for buying parts from the Evil Empire of O'Reilly . Should have gone with Moog. That's what I used for both the upper and lower on my '11, no problems...
lol moog sells plenty of shit these days as well. The parts supply is infiltrated with chinese garbage under a big name. That being said this control arm still works great.
@@PNW_Car_Mods I used to work for the Evil Empire, and you would be surprised at how much of that “ precision “ stuff can back under , defect and warranty. I now work for another and better family owned parts distributor , that sell basically the same as the Evil guys , but see way less stuff returned . The Moogs I bought through them were made in Canada and Mexico , way better than china. So far no problems , and that was for a 06 LX , this winters project is doing them in my ‘11 cvpi .
@@jeromezielinski8773 Thanks for the insider info sir!. Like I said, other than the crap bolts this unit is still holding up daily. I still contend, Moog is not the same company it once was, just like NAPA is not the same company it once was. Parts quality is down across the board. That is speaking from the trenches. That being said, nearly every repair video we have on this beat up cop car it has to be fixed ASAP. It's a daily driver. So we get whatever parts store crap we can get our hands on lol.
Hi, Im doing this job rn, Im stuck on the upper ball joint, I'm using a 15/16 wrench and a torx to hold it from spinning, it was almost off until the torx snapped inside the ball joint stud. Any help?
is it loose in the steering knuckle? Find a way to counter hold the ball joint stud with a pair of good vice grips? Other choice is to take and cut the stud off with an angle grinder or sawzall.
Shouldn’t you replace the lower control arm bushings or ball joint also? Was the upper ball joint bad or just the bushings?
No necessarily IMO. I mean if you have money to burn you could rebuild the whole entire front end if you wanted to but it quickly turns into a where do you draw the line scenario. This is a 2500 dollar daily driver that just needs to be kept operational and safe. Inspection of the rest of the suspension was done visually and with levers. I'm sure this one failed due to one too many curb jumps while in service. This car is actually very low miles.
Squirrel! Nope, an airplane! :)
lol Greg, those flying beer can bug smasher make so racket when we're trying to make a simple dumb ass video.
how did you undamaged the threads on the original control arm bolts
Take the bolts to a bench grinder and remove the first two threads what were mushroomed over from beating on them with a hammer. Good as new.
Do you have to take off the brakes to reach the ball joint nut???
Jonathan the brakes are removed so you can take off the sway bar endlink so you don't fight the swaybar trying to get the shock and coil spring out. Unfortunately it has to be disassembled that far because it's the only way you can get the upper control arm bolts out.
Where exactly do you have the jack stand placed to simulate being loaded before torquing the bolts?
I just leave the front of the car supported by jackstands on the frame then use a separate floor jack at the outer lower ball joint by the spindle and jack the suspension up just until it tries to pick the car up off the jackstands at the frame. Torque suspension bolts and call it good then lower the floor jack and put the rest of the stuff back together. I hope that makes sense?
@@PNW_Car_Mods Thank you! That makes perfect sense. 👍
Any tips on getting the bottom bolt of the coil over unstuck
can you rotate the flag portion of the nut? It can get rusted into the bushings. Heat, oil, and hammers. You may in bad situations have to buy a new bolt after destroying the original.
Use hammer drill with a socket over the bolt, it will spin over it but it will also hammer it free
I hope the Chinese use the same grade bolts on their fighter aircraft and ships LOL
and their fake boeing 737s for that matter lol
My stud is spinning on the ball joint when trying to tighten the nut, any ideas? The Allen key literally stripped
Dom that's a tough call without being in the trenches with you. My first thought is to cut the ball joint stud between the upper arm and the steering knuckle with an angle grinder and a thing cut off disc. Then hold what's left with a pair of channel locks to try and get the nut off. Trying to cut the nut itself off is possible as well but hard as hell to do without jacking up the steering knuckle.
yep, that will do it
lol. It drives so much better now. Like a brand new car. :)
Which impact tools are those? Part numbers?
M18 Fuel 3/8s and 1/2 drive.
Please show how to remove the bolts for upper arm to mount
It's in there and it's not fun.
So does this mean I should just not buy Precision? Okay okay
That's a good question. I think the arm itself is good. I just don't trust the hardware. Looking back on it I wish I would have used the factory nut on the Precision ball joint.