Saw your post on Facebook. Here are a few thoughts, take them for what they're worth. I had a Master Beekeeper tell me if you are getting comb collapse, it is probably because the bees are being spread too thin. The hive is too big and there are not enough bees to regulate the temp inside. The bees will not bother trying to 'save' the honey frames at the end because they are too busy keeping the brood cool. Probably best to downsize. Do some research into insulating a hive. Insulation and upper vents is a no no. Maybe a source of your heat problem. 1. insulate the top year round. (foam) 2. No vents in the lid with insulation. 3. Paint The top white. Sheet metal can heat up to 130 degrees on a sunny day. White will help lower the temp. 4. Single entrance, No extra vents. Bees can control the temp and humidity in the hive but not if you keep letting all the hot air in. Just like you wouldn't let cold air in the winter, same for summer.
Very very good advice Ross. I do believe you’re right I think after I installed the swarm I expanded the hive too quick and did not let the bees build their frames full of wax to the bottom. I could see how they could not keep it cool. Also I’ll be implementing the rest of your ideas for next season.Thank you very much.
The fun is taking a design and changing it to make the hive that works best for you and your bees 🐝. I really like having the frames floating like a top bar hive. We’ll done!!!!
For not being a woodworker that's a nice build and good considerations. I really like my Layens hives, and my bees over-wintered in the deep frames very well last year. Having gone to Dr. Leo's Seminar a couple years ago I try to keep to natural beekeeping practices as much as is practical, but I do like using wired frames so that I can reuse comb after honey extraction. I am considering trying a top bar, just for the experience (and something a little different) but think I'll always be a proponent of the Layens hives.
Sodbuster your to kind with your comments. I watched several of your videos and Dr. Leo’s to see how the layens hives work, before I built mine. On episodes #69 & 70 on my TH-cam channel I go through my 2 layens. If you have any extra time to watch them, would appreciate your thoughts or concerns. I use one of Dr. Leo’s honey press’s to extract honey from my top bar hives. So I chose not to use foundation or wires. Time will tell? I do enjoy working with top bar hives. It’s interesting to watch how the bees choose to build comb also easy to work with and build. But the layens so far look very interesting. Enjoy your channel!
You could put a back stop for your frames on the same side as the entrance. More than likely you will work the hive from the back. With a simple sheet metal lip on the opposite side the bars would be easily aligned by pushing them against the sheet metal lip. Just a thought for future builds. I love the design. I cant bring myself to switching over to horizontal hives. I've heard that they don't produce as much honey. Maybe I'll try one horizontal to see for myself. Thinking of using the Langstroth top bar with a side bar of 15". There is an extractor that will spin a frame of 19"x15 3/8". If I like the horizontal hive I could easily convert my Lang frames over. Thanks for sharing the videos.
That makes so much sense. I can easily put a 1/4 inch lip of metal to catch the frames but still easily grab to lift. I will add that to these 2 hives. Thanks for the idea. I’ve seen several videos of people converting langstroth frames,I believe that would work. I’m interested in seeing what these layens will do. What I do like about horizontal hives is no heavy lifting and everything stays contained in the hive. I do believe your right there will be less honey. There seems to be positives and negatives with each style of hive. Hope you have a good bee season.
I love that! Great idea! I cant lift the frames so I will stay with top bar hives. Still looking for someone to build top bars like yours so i can tranfer my bees into ones like yours. Il love how you have the frames. Great idea.
Something I learned after using these frames is the bee sometimes build around the horizontal dowel rod. I don’t know if I did not have enough wax on them or they just didn’t want to attach to it. Since then, I’ve changed some of them to one vertical or maybe even two vertical dowel rods instead of the horizontal, and they seem to be building fine on those. So throughout the hive, I kinda alternate them. Thanks for your comments. Hope you have a good 2024 bee season.
Hey Bob, you may want to follow Dr. Leo’s free plans on horizontal hive.com. I believe. If you use his frame size your layens hive will be universal. That way you could switch with other beekeepers if needed. I basically just came up with my own frames size to fit the 2 x boxes I was building. I did it so I would not have much waste while using the two by lumber. And my frames are thicker, etc., because they sit on top of the box frame. I’m not sure the best way I could give you the frame measurements??
Nice box. I, like you, use my own spin after a lot of research. I started with the standard frame and built the box my way. I have six insulated Layens hives boiling over with bees right now after a rough winter. I may try a few 2x lumber boxes next.
I had one odd comb in 2020 but it was easy to manage when I used starters like yours. In 2021 I had no odd comb but I added 7” of Dr Leo’s foundation on every other frame.
I'm glad I found your channel. I'm going to Dr Leo's seminar next weekend. I've built 3 Layens hives and 3 top bar hives. I'm wanting to see if I can apply what I learn from him, to top bar hives.
I hope to attend one of his seminars this year also. Tell me what you think of his teaching. From what I’ve watched I believe top bar beekeeping can be managed the same way, except I believe you have to check on them especially after installing a swarm several times. Do you already have bees in all of these boxes and if so how did you overwinter this year?
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 No bees in there yet. I've been using Langstroth hives up to this point. I have serious back issues, so they won't be much of an option for me anymore. I'm using all 2x lumber for top bars and Layens. I built the tops bars using the plans from bee-mindful.com. Designed by Les Crowder.
Day one of Dr Leos seminar is over, tomorrow is day two. He’s given several good reasons for using Layen’s hives, and he seems to emphasize how good the insulated hives made with sheep’s wool and 11/32 plywood are. I asked him his opinion of top bar hives and he said they’re better for more tropical environments. I asked him if that was true even if the hives are made of 2x stock, like some of the Layen’s of the hives he sells or offer build plans for on his website. He said the 2x stock is good and will do well for the average winter in southern Missouri where we both live, but you want to build a hive that also does well in the extreme variations of our climate. I respect that answer. I also, recognize that he builds and sells Layen’s hives that cost several hundred dollars vs the $60 it costs me to build a Top Bar hive, so I can’t help but wonder if that even slightly influences his opinion. There is no doubt to me, that he is a master beekeeper and that he is incredibly experienced and knowledgeable, I’m learning a lot, but I’m not ready to drop the top bars and build or purchase a bunch of Layen’s hives unless I can do it affordably. One major advantage that I do see is the ability to use an extractor and reuse comb to maximize honey production.
@@superviro I believe most beekeepers can offer good advice from their experience’s. Southern Illinois for me is the perfect spot for top bars not to hot and not to cold. You ought to check out Frederick Dunn, The Way To Bee. He’s a very good teacher about bees mostly for backyard beekeepers. He mostly has langstroth hives, 1 horizontal and 1 Dr Leo’s Layens. He only insulates the top of his hives and they do seem to make it through, I believe Pennsylvania winters. After building 2 Layen, I know top bar hives are the cheapest and easiest to build. I’m interested in seeing what these layens will do. Each style of hive of course has its advantages and disadvantages. So far I just like how the bee’s create their comb how they want in a top bar. I’m interested to see how day 2 went.
I forgot to ask. Are your top bars the same size as your ktb hives because if they are that would be a good way of doing splits. I like the way your mind works.
I may not have shown it, but yes I did. It’s very important even in a 18 frame hive like this one. When you add Bees, you do not want to expand the hive too much. Otherwise they do not build comb fully down frame. I found that out by experience.
Dr. Leo has free plans on his website if you would want to build a layens that would be interchangeable with others. On my design I just looked at his plans and then came up with my own version what basically works for me when it comes to the wood Sizes, frames, etc. You could hopefully use some of my thoughts or ideas with those plans.
This is a great design! Now you gotta make a build tutorial!
Very nice video 👍🤠 thanks 🙏
Thanks for the comments.
Saw your post on Facebook. Here are a few thoughts, take them for what they're worth. I had a Master Beekeeper tell me if you are getting comb collapse, it is probably because the bees are being spread too thin. The hive is too big and there are not enough bees to regulate the temp inside. The bees will not bother trying to 'save' the honey frames at the end because they are too busy keeping the brood cool. Probably best to downsize. Do some research into insulating a hive. Insulation and upper vents is a no no. Maybe a source of your heat problem. 1. insulate the top year round. (foam) 2. No vents in the lid with insulation. 3. Paint The top white. Sheet metal can heat up to 130 degrees on a sunny day. White will help lower the temp. 4. Single entrance, No extra vents. Bees can control the temp and humidity in the hive but not if you keep letting all the hot air in. Just like you wouldn't let cold air in the winter, same for summer.
Very very good advice Ross. I do believe you’re right I think after I installed the swarm I expanded the hive too quick and did not let the bees build their frames full of wax to the bottom. I could see how they could not keep it cool. Also I’ll be implementing the rest of your ideas for next season.Thank you very much.
The fun is taking a design and changing it to make the hive that works best for you and your bees 🐝. I really like having the frames floating like a top bar hive. We’ll done!!!!
Thanks I totally agree. Can’t wait to see what the bees will do on the frames.
Awesome build!!! Thank you for sharing.
For not being a woodworker that's a nice build and good considerations. I really like my Layens hives, and my bees over-wintered in the deep frames very well last year. Having gone to Dr. Leo's Seminar a couple years ago I try to keep to natural beekeeping practices as much as is practical, but I do like using wired frames so that I can reuse comb after honey extraction. I am considering trying a top bar, just for the experience (and something a little different) but think I'll always be a proponent of the Layens hives.
Sodbuster your to kind with your comments. I watched several of your videos and Dr. Leo’s to see how the layens hives work, before I built mine. On episodes #69 & 70 on my TH-cam channel I go through my 2 layens. If you have any extra time to watch them, would appreciate your thoughts or concerns. I use one of Dr. Leo’s honey press’s to extract honey from my top bar hives. So I chose not to use foundation or wires. Time will tell? I do enjoy working with top bar hives. It’s interesting to watch how the bees choose to build comb also easy to work with and build. But the layens so far look very interesting. Enjoy your channel!
You could put a back stop for your frames on the same side as the entrance. More than likely you will work the hive from the back. With a simple sheet metal lip on the opposite side the bars would be easily aligned by pushing them against the sheet metal lip.
Just a thought for future builds. I love the design. I cant bring myself to switching over to horizontal hives. I've heard that they don't produce as much honey. Maybe I'll try one horizontal to see for myself. Thinking of using the Langstroth top bar with a side bar of 15". There is an extractor that will spin a frame of 19"x15 3/8". If I like the horizontal hive I could easily convert my Lang frames over.
Thanks for sharing the videos.
That makes so much sense. I can easily put a 1/4 inch lip of metal to catch the frames but still easily grab to lift. I will add that to these 2 hives. Thanks for the idea. I’ve seen several videos of people converting langstroth frames,I believe that would work. I’m interested in seeing what these layens will do. What I do like about horizontal hives is no heavy lifting and everything stays contained in the hive. I do believe your right there will be less honey. There seems to be positives and negatives with each style of hive. Hope you have a good bee season.
I love that! Great idea! I cant lift the frames so I will stay with top bar hives. Still looking for someone to build top bars like yours so i can tranfer my bees into ones like yours. Il love how you have the frames. Great idea.
Something I learned after using these frames is the bee sometimes build around the horizontal dowel rod. I don’t know if I did not have enough wax on them or they just didn’t want to attach to it. Since then, I’ve changed some of them to one vertical or maybe even two vertical dowel rods instead of the horizontal, and they seem to be building fine on those. So throughout the hive, I kinda alternate them. Thanks for your comments. Hope you have a good 2024 bee season.
@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 I hope you do too! So far so good :)
If you have the measurements and would like to share that would be great. Really like what you did!
Hey Bob, you may want to follow Dr. Leo’s free plans on horizontal hive.com. I believe. If you use his frame size your layens hive will be universal. That way you could switch with other beekeepers if needed. I basically just came up with my own frames size to fit the 2 x boxes I was building. I did it so I would not have much waste while using the two by lumber. And my frames are thicker, etc., because they sit on top of the box frame. I’m not sure the best way I could give you the frame measurements??
Nice box. I, like you, use my own spin after a lot of research. I started with the standard frame and built the box my way. I have six insulated Layens hives boiling over with bees right now after a rough winter. I may try a few 2x lumber boxes next.
Thanks for the compliment. Have you had any trouble with the bees cross Combing or do they pretty well stay on the frame?
I had one odd comb in 2020 but it was easy to manage when I used starters like yours. In 2021 I had no odd comb but I added 7” of Dr Leo’s foundation on every other frame.
I'm glad I found your channel. I'm going to Dr Leo's seminar next weekend. I've built 3 Layens hives and 3 top bar hives. I'm wanting to see if I can apply what I learn from him, to top bar hives.
I hope to attend one of his seminars this year also. Tell me what you think of his teaching. From what I’ve watched I believe top bar beekeeping can be managed the same way, except I believe you have to check on them especially after installing a swarm several times. Do you already have bees in all of these boxes and if so how did you overwinter this year?
@@simplytopbarbeekeeping2107 No bees in there yet. I've been using Langstroth hives up to this point. I have serious back issues, so they won't be much of an option for me anymore.
I'm using all 2x lumber for top bars and Layens.
I built the tops bars using the plans from bee-mindful.com. Designed by Les Crowder.
Day one of Dr Leos seminar is over, tomorrow is day two. He’s given several good reasons for using Layen’s hives, and he seems to emphasize how good the insulated hives made with sheep’s wool and 11/32 plywood are. I asked him his opinion of top bar hives and he said they’re better for more tropical environments. I asked him if that was true even if the hives are made of 2x stock, like some of the Layen’s of the hives he sells or offer build plans for on his website. He said the 2x stock is good and will do well for the average winter in southern Missouri where we both live, but you want to build a hive that also does well in the extreme variations of our climate. I respect that answer. I also, recognize that he builds and sells Layen’s hives that cost several hundred dollars vs the $60 it costs me to build a Top Bar hive, so I can’t help but wonder if that even slightly influences his opinion.
There is no doubt to me, that he is a master beekeeper and that he is incredibly experienced and knowledgeable, I’m learning a lot, but I’m not ready to drop the top bars and build or purchase a bunch of Layen’s hives unless I can do it affordably. One major advantage that I do see is the ability to use an extractor and reuse comb to maximize honey production.
@@superviro I believe most beekeepers can offer good advice from their experience’s. Southern Illinois for me is the perfect spot for top bars not to hot and not to cold. You ought to check out Frederick Dunn, The Way To Bee. He’s a very good teacher about bees mostly for backyard beekeepers. He mostly has langstroth hives, 1 horizontal and 1 Dr Leo’s Layens. He only insulates the top of his hives and they do seem to make it through, I believe Pennsylvania winters. After building 2 Layen, I know top bar hives are the cheapest and easiest to build. I’m interested in seeing what these layens will do. Each style of hive of course has its advantages and disadvantages. So far I just like how the bee’s create their comb how they want in a top bar. I’m interested to see how day 2 went.
I forgot to ask. Are your top bars the same size as your ktb hives because if they are that would be a good way of doing splits. I like the way your mind works.
The widths are the same 1 1/2 inches but the lengths are different. I could put top bar in Layens but not vise versa.
Did you make follower board so you can expand as they grow?
I may not have shown it, but yes I did. It’s very important even in a 18 frame hive like this one. When you add Bees, you do not want to expand the hive too much. Otherwise they do not build comb fully down frame. I found that out by experience.
Do you have plans for this layen hive?
Dr. Leo has free plans on his website if you would want to build a layens that would be interchangeable with others. On my design I just looked at his plans and then came up with my own version what basically works for me when it comes to the wood Sizes, frames, etc. You could hopefully use some of my thoughts or ideas with those plans.