I love the paradox of combat robotics. Look at the amount of knowledge and skill that goes into producing a first-rate machine. [Robert does excellent work.] Now contrast all of that painstaking care and attention to detail with what's going to happen next: you're going to feed your robot into the equivalent of a waste disposal unit. Noooooo!
I found this hobbyking.com/en_us/aerostar-rvs-80a-electronic-speed-controller-w-reverse-function-5a-bec-2-6s.html can this be used instead of re programming the ESC ? For driving hobbyking.com/en_us/propdrive-v2-series-4248-650kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html this ESC
I literally ran through this process about a week before you uploaded this, on some old ESCs I had on an old quad. They did not have ISP pads, but I was lucky enough to have a little pogo-pin intended for atmegax8 family parts from another project. I tried using AVRDude from the old AVR tools kit, and it programmed at a few dozen bytes per second. Turns out there is a standalone AVRDude version that runs a WHOLE lot faster, in case anybody runs into this problem. Didn't even know about the KKMulticopter tool. Very useful in the future!
Yep, Caleb. It was always very important that an M4 Sherman 'Tommy cooker' tank could go backwards. (Oh dear. Have I gone too far again? Gosh, I'm SUCH a naughty girl... )
I have some things to say: If you don't need the 5v output of the ESC, or can stick in a tiny 5v regulator, id recommend to use a so called opto ESC. They don't have a 5v regulator, are smaller, don't have a heavy heatsink and are easier to work with. Some smaller ones are even breadboard friendly. Programming these is also very simple, if you buy the ones that support blheli / blheli_s / blhlei32. There are USB boards that plug into USB, and the data and ground wires of the ESC, and you can flash and program them through a nice layer out software.
I think the software has been updated since this video and I am having a hell of a time trying to enable the reverse. I can reflash the board but I cannot change the settings on the board. I have the same esc, i downloaded from the link in the description, but I dont have the "Simonk Firmware compiler" tab like you have. Help would be very appreciated. Also nice job at AVC 2018.
Hey, I need one help I used to flash redbrick V2 200a esc for bi directional motion with same procedure that used to work properly. But now am not able flash redbrick V3 200a esc can you help me out in this
The 2" X 72" grinder I built has a VFD that has a braking option. When you turn the motor off it electrically applies a braking system to the motor. it really works good. Don't know if anything similar is available in the programming of your ESC but it might ?????? be worth a look.
I know I'm late to the party but thanks for the in depth video it's really great, I'm trying to flash a Turnigy AE-30A but the link, which shows photos of the ESC, only shows 3 connection points not 6. Can you tell me what I'm missing? Looking to enable the bidirectional function for an ROV project. Any help/direction would be appreciated! Thanks
What happens if you "flash" wrong software?? I have a 200A red brick, but not Black or Green motherboard, but RED. I tried both hex files, and a few others. Not even a sound and 0 movement, like dead dead dead....? is that normal, or should it have had a glitchy response at least? (even if it is the wrong software/hex file?)
Sir i was having a problem with red brick 200amps esc to code for forward and reverse for propdrive 50 60.The motor while in forward is switching to reverse with given the input but when going from reverse to forward it is giving a delay before going to forward
There are a lot of missing details here. Check out my combat robot resource guide video, I share forums, groups and other resources you can use to get answers to your questions.
What about the ESCs on hobbyking that say they have a "built in reverse" function? will these work just as well as a flashed ESC like above? here is example: hobbyking.com/en_us/aerostar-rvs-60a-electronic-speed-controller-w-reverse-function-and-5a-bec-2-6s.html
Those look like Banebot gearboxes, did you make your own adapters to fit the brushless motors to the planetary gearboxes? Did you have to drill out the pinions to fit the brushless motor shafts? Thanks for another informative video!
Not sure if you would happen to know the answer to this one, but is there any reason why the motor/speed controller will beep for programming, but wont respond to actual control on pin two (elev) before any program changes (essentially running default)? I'm testing red bricks out for just forward but i'm not getting response.
I actually had the same thing happen with some SS (super simple) ESCs, which are basically the same as red bricks. I haven't been able to fix them yet.
I'm not sure what you're asking. In the video, I show how to connect directly to the IC. If you have a bootloader installed, you can connect directly to the receiver connector.
so if i purchased a turnigy plush 10A could i buy a socket firmware flashing tool? would the pins for reprogramming be the same as the ones in the video?
check the link above. you will need to make sure your ESC is supported. there are links in that document to pictures of the board. EVERY ESC will be a bit different. it looks like newer plush ESCs are not atmega-based, so you would not be able to load simonk. check the compatibility chart first.
thanks for the advice, im thinking of moving to hobbyking 10A and DYS BE1806-2300kv Brushless motors (although i belive hobbyking sell a car version? )
In the video, I'm using one of these: hobbyking.com/en_us/ntm-prop-drive-series-35-42a-1250kv-600w-1.html But I might switch to something different. I attached the pinion using an arbor press. You can get a cheap one at harbor freight or craigslist (usually $20-$30). OR, you can use a drill press or machining vise, that works too. Just don't hammer it in and you should be fine.
Robert Cowan How do you know which motor is compatible and which isn't? lots of motors on Hobbyking and The Robot Marketplace do not have the hole alignment.
You're right, a lot don't list the hole pattern. I guess I'm spoiled because I can easily machine a new mounting plate, so I just chose a motor that was the right physical size and power. A lot of times they will say the screw pattern though. Or you could stick with what others have used (like the NTM proprdrive series).
For that motor, you'd want at least 100A, closer to 120A maybe. I'm not sure of many ESCs that powerful that have an atmega. Look at the list above and see if there are any. Oh, and my soldering iron is a Hakko FX-951. It's INCREDIBLE. Worth every penny.
I have a red brick 100A for an SK3 5055. I haven't flashed it yet, but I'd imagine this process would work, or the process using the servo cable which is similar and easier.
Robert Cowan the most common firmware is blheli, simonK was the first firmware for "drone" but now blheli have the best feature for brushless motor. The best for "drone" is the regenerative brake, I think is very useful for a robot
Thanks! I can't really answer that for you, it really depends on the configuration and pinout of the ESC. The facebook group is the best place to ask (which it looks like you already did).
Robert Cowan the google doc you have posted which shows compatible escs there is a bar on the right which has notes on the escs like what fets etc. some say Needs and strap on the mcu, not sure what that means.
@@RobertCowanDIY I am aware of that Your motor did instantly change direction at 9:41 But it's response to throttle stick input felt having a lag of 0.5sec See closely at 9:20 I bought a custom bidirectional brushed esc for my mabuchi 775 with a similar 2 stage planetary gearbox It's response is much faster, not just direction changing, but also while taking turns Plus my transmitter is a basic flysky i6 Also saw someone on Instagram with the brushless version of that custom ESC with propdrive 3536 Same instant response Thing is he stopped manufacturing those ESCs So back to diy esc flashing Usually there's always a input lag in a cheap ESC to an expensive ESC But your particular esc is already a good one
@@Divyesh_SinhaThere are a LOT of settings here. Change the deadband on your radio, put in a throttle curve, program SimonK firmware (or other) for more responsive input. It's not a simple process, you need to tune a lot! And each motor/ESC combo will be a bit different.
Realy good video, help me a lot! But i have some questions: 1) Can you show how to configure the radio for control the locomotion and the weapon together? 2) Have a way to control the locomotion with 2 ESCs using a pistol-grip radio controller?
Glad it helped. I will be covering the radio stuff in another video, hopefully coming sometime soon. Look up videos online for v-tail mixing or channel mixing, tank steering, etc. you can find many videos on youtube. it's more specific to your radio, so it's hard to explain generally.
Good night Robert, I'm from Argentina, I'll ask you if you can help me. I bought an electric turbo for the car, it comes with a SimonK Firmware 40A and 5v, it also comes with a potentiometer. I want to connect it to the accelerator pedal and it doesn't work. I don't know if the explanation is clear, if you need my email, let me know. Thank you in advance for your help. Raphael
Maybe. If it's not on the list, try googling and see if anyone else has used it. If not, just try buying one and see what chip it uses. Then you'll have to figure out the pin-out, etc. It is always easiest to just use what's already known to work.
im new to this and just ordered some parts. if i understand correctly once you have flashed the firmware with bootloader using leads soldered onto the board you can remove the leads and shrink wrap it up and then use an afro 3 pin usb tool on the rx lead to make changes in the future for ease?
Hmm. In my experience, flashing in public can get you into a lot of trouble. Thankfully, it's not so popular now that everybody has a video camera on their phone. And streaking's a bad idea if you're a little... er, top heavy like me. Looks pretty scary in super-slow-motion. Hey, I reserve the right to make stupid Comments.
I love the paradox of combat robotics. Look at the amount of knowledge and skill that goes into producing a first-rate machine. [Robert does excellent work.]
Now contrast all of that painstaking care and attention to detail with what's going to happen next: you're going to feed your robot into the equivalent of a waste disposal unit.
Noooooo!
Sorry for the re-upload everyone, the last video had an error in it. It's fixed now!
I found this
hobbyking.com/en_us/aerostar-rvs-80a-electronic-speed-controller-w-reverse-function-5a-bec-2-6s.html
can this be used instead of re programming the ESC ?
For driving
hobbyking.com/en_us/propdrive-v2-series-4248-650kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html
this ESC
I literally ran through this process about a week before you uploaded this, on some old ESCs I had on an old quad. They did not have ISP pads, but I was lucky enough to have a little pogo-pin intended for atmegax8 family parts from another project. I tried using AVRDude from the old AVR tools kit, and it programmed at a few dozen bytes per second. Turns out there is a standalone AVRDude version that runs a WHOLE lot faster, in case anybody runs into this problem. Didn't even know about the KKMulticopter tool. Very useful in the future!
awesome! yeah, I've been meaning to try this for a long time. I'm just glad it worked out well.
Your videos always help. :)
@@duodream Thanks for asking this! I realized the beta version is what has this option!
Thanks, this helped me give my RC Speed tank Reverse functionality.
Yep, Caleb. It was always very important that an M4 Sherman 'Tommy cooker' tank could go backwards.
(Oh dear. Have I gone too far again? Gosh, I'm SUCH a naughty girl... )
The best tutorial out there!!! Thanks!!!
I have some things to say:
If you don't need the 5v output of the ESC, or can stick in a tiny 5v regulator, id recommend to use a so called opto ESC. They don't have a 5v regulator, are smaller, don't have a heavy heatsink and are easier to work with. Some smaller ones are even breadboard friendly. Programming these is also very simple, if you buy the ones that support blheli / blheli_s / blhlei32.
There are USB boards that plug into USB, and the data and ground wires of the ESC, and you can flash and program them through a nice layer out software.
I think the software has been updated since this video and I am having a hell of a time trying to enable the reverse. I can reflash the board but I cannot change the settings on the board. I have the same esc, i downloaded from the link in the description, but I dont have the "Simonk Firmware compiler" tab like you have. Help would be very appreciated. Also nice job at AVC 2018.
You can download the old version, I used 0.80 beta 6. Try different versions?
Thanks I used the beta and it's all perfect now.
Hey, I need one help I used to flash redbrick V2 200a esc for bi directional motion with same procedure that used to work properly. But now am not able flash redbrick V3 200a esc can you help me out in this
I was never able to successfully reprogram redbricks, so I'm not sure if I can help you out, sorry.
The 2" X 72" grinder I built has a VFD that has a braking option. When you turn the motor off it electrically applies a braking system to the motor. it really works good. Don't know if anything similar is available in the programming of your ESC but it might ?????? be worth a look.
For combat robotics, you don't want braking. When you have this much power, braking will just make you slide everywhere.
Volunteer fire department? Valley of Four Drafts? Very Fanvy Doilees? Village of fowl devotees? Volunteers fighting disease? Vineyard's famous donkeys? Voice fakery disguises? Volunteer feline detectives? Very fascinating drama? Very fun day? Vinegar-flavored doughnuts? Violent frozen dragonflies? Voracious fierce dragon? Vain fat dictator? Verdant flammable device? Vertical flame diversion? Vernacularly fastened door? Verbal fridge dialogue? Very fresh dill? Volunteer factual dispatches? Voluntary fish domestication? Visitable fungus ditches? Versed Furtive disclosure? Volatile fungus deportation? Violet's fifteenth date? Verifying fernald's defection? Vision furthering device? Very flammable detergent? Vessel for disacharrides? Very flavorless diet? Vaporetto of favorite detritus? OH nevermind, it's *Variable frequency drive*
excuse me if the way to slow down the response from the bldc is like where? via kk flash tools. thank you
I know I'm late to the party but thanks for the in depth video it's really great, I'm trying to flash a Turnigy AE-30A but the link, which shows photos of the ESC, only shows 3 connection points not 6. Can you tell me what I'm missing?
Looking to enable the bidirectional function for an ROV project. Any help/direction would be appreciated!
Thanks
Hai, if I have ESC non branded, and i track AH, AL, BH, BL, CH, CL is it can be flashed?
What happens if you "flash" wrong software?? I have a 200A red brick, but not Black or Green motherboard, but RED. I tried both hex files, and a few others. Not even a sound and 0 movement, like dead dead dead....? is that normal, or should it have had a glitchy response at least? (even if it is the wrong software/hex file?)
Sir i was having a problem with red brick 200amps esc to code for forward and reverse for propdrive 50 60.The motor while in forward is switching to reverse with given the input but when going from reverse to forward it is giving a delay before going to forward
There are a lot of missing details here. Check out my combat robot resource guide video, I share forums, groups and other resources you can use to get answers to your questions.
What made you switch from the 36mm outrunners to the 42mm outrunners for your drive?
can we use musical note feature on simonK esc like blheli32 ecs
I don't think so, I don't think you can modify simonk sounds.
another well explained video
i know it is old video but how do you calibrate esc?
Can I do this for an antweight drum, so if it gets flipped over I can reverse the direction it is spinning.
Yeah, you could.
Robert Cowan Thank you!
thank you for very useful video!
What about the ESCs on hobbyking that say they have a "built in reverse" function? will these work just as well as a flashed ESC like above? here is example: hobbyking.com/en_us/aerostar-rvs-60a-electronic-speed-controller-w-reverse-function-and-5a-bec-2-6s.html
Sir can u plz do the video about explaining different banebot gearboxes
Those look like Banebot gearboxes, did you make your own adapters to fit the brushless motors to the planetary gearboxes? Did you have to drill out the pinions to fit the brushless motor shafts? Thanks for another informative video!
he did make custom plates and he did not need to drill pinions as they are both 5mm (775 vs brushless propdrive)
I read on e0designs.com that the rs-700 motor mount and pinion bolt up?
Not sure if you would happen to know the answer to this one, but is there any reason why the motor/speed controller will beep for programming, but wont respond to actual control on pin two (elev) before any program changes (essentially running default)? I'm testing red bricks out for just forward but i'm not getting response.
I actually had the same thing happen with some SS (super simple) ESCs, which are basically the same as red bricks. I haven't been able to fix them yet.
Once your esc is flashed with the firmware, do you remove the programmer or keep it connected?
Which FW file to select for Chinese generic 30A esc with Atmeg8 mcu. Cover red and yellow mostly simonk FW pre installed.
tgy works well for me or you can try verifying via BLheli the ESC until you get the correct Simonk Firmware
Do you know when there is only 3 wires comes out of ESC (Turnigy plush 80 amp) how should I connect them to USB ASP ?
I'm not sure what you're asking. In the video, I show how to connect directly to the IC. If you have a bootloader installed, you can connect directly to the receiver connector.
so if i purchased a turnigy plush 10A could i buy a socket firmware flashing tool? would the pins for reprogramming be the same as the ones in the video?
check the link above. you will need to make sure your ESC is supported. there are links in that document to pictures of the board. EVERY ESC will be a bit different. it looks like newer plush ESCs are not atmega-based, so you would not be able to load simonk. check the compatibility chart first.
thanks for the advice, im thinking of moving to hobbyking 10A and DYS BE1806-2300kv Brushless motors (although i belive hobbyking sell a car version? )
I need some help here... Brushless not responding after flashing ... Anyway i can contact you sir ?
I am about to flash some esc's for brushless maxons. I was wondering if you changed anymore settings before you used them?
I did change other settings, I'll be making an update to this video soon that shows the other settings I used.
What motor are you running on that P60 and how did you attach the pinion? Thanks for the video!
In the video, I'm using one of these: hobbyking.com/en_us/ntm-prop-drive-series-35-42a-1250kv-600w-1.html But I might switch to something different. I attached the pinion using an arbor press. You can get a cheap one at harbor freight or craigslist (usually $20-$30). OR, you can use a drill press or machining vise, that works too. Just don't hammer it in and you should be fine.
Great video! One question though - what programming card did you use?
Did you have to make a special plate to mount on the p60 or did it fit by itself?
I had to make an adapter. but I could have avoided the adapter by just shortening the shaft. It will depend on which motor you use.
Robert Cowan How do you know which motor is compatible and which isn't? lots of motors on Hobbyking and The Robot Marketplace do not have the hole alignment.
You're right, a lot don't list the hole pattern. I guess I'm spoiled because I can easily machine a new mounting plate, so I just chose a motor that was the right physical size and power. A lot of times they will say the screw pattern though. Or you could stick with what others have used (like the NTM proprdrive series).
What esc should I use for a ntm 50-60 270kv motor? also what soldering iron do you have?
For that motor, you'd want at least 100A, closer to 120A maybe. I'm not sure of many ESCs that powerful that have an atmega. Look at the list above and see if there are any. Oh, and my soldering iron is a Hakko FX-951. It's INCREDIBLE. Worth every penny.
Red bricks do.
Frentru is it the same flashing process for red bricks, and should I get 150A red brick for the ntm 50-60.
I have a red brick 100A for an SK3 5055. I haven't flashed it yet, but I'd imagine this process would work, or the process using the servo cable which is similar and easier.
Yeah, the process should be the same for the red brick.
Good info
Why you don't have flash a blheli firmware?
I wasn't aware that blheli did forward/reverse. I just chose SimonK because it's the most common firmware for brushless drive.
Robert Cowan the most common firmware is blheli, simonK was the first firmware for "drone" but now blheli have the best feature for brushless motor. The best for "drone" is the regenerative brake, I think is very useful for a robot
You might be right, but I need forward and reverse drive, which blheli doesn't seem to support.
Robert Cowan I now but blheli support the reverse and forward drive, otherwise I would not have told.
Oh OK, I can look into it. Thanks.
what company are those planetary made and where can I get them
They are made by BaneBots. Their website is banebots.com. They are pretty common and really good gearboxes.
First off, great video. Secondly. is there a way to determine which hex file one needs if they are not on the spreadsheet?
Thanks! I can't really answer that for you, it really depends on the configuration and pinout of the ESC. The facebook group is the best place to ask (which it looks like you already did).
Can someone tell me what it means by needs a strap on mcu on the google doc.
I'm not sure what you're referring to?
Robert Cowan the google doc you have posted which shows compatible escs there is a bar on the right which has notes on the escs like what fets etc. some say Needs and strap on the mcu, not sure what that means.
@@magicmanspaz I don't know what it means either, sorry.
Great video! thanks!
Smooth sound,what type of brushless motor did you using?
Check out this video for a full details breakdown of what I'm using, with links to the products: th-cam.com/video/TiffPfLg-c0/w-d-xo.html
Just noticed that there was a input lag between your stick and motor
When you suddenly reversed it, it didn't instantly reverse
How to fix that
Change physics? You can't 'instantly' reverse, motors have inertia.
@@RobertCowanDIY I am aware of that
Your motor did instantly change direction at 9:41
But it's response to throttle stick input felt having a lag of 0.5sec
See closely at 9:20
I bought a custom bidirectional brushed esc for my mabuchi 775 with a similar 2 stage planetary gearbox
It's response is much faster, not just direction changing, but also while taking turns
Plus my transmitter is a basic flysky i6
Also saw someone on Instagram with the brushless version of that custom ESC with propdrive 3536
Same instant response
Thing is he stopped manufacturing those ESCs
So back to diy esc flashing
Usually there's always a input lag in a cheap ESC to an expensive ESC
But your particular esc is already a good one
@@Divyesh_SinhaThere are a LOT of settings here. Change the deadband on your radio, put in a throttle curve, program SimonK firmware (or other) for more responsive input. It's not a simple process, you need to tune a lot! And each motor/ESC combo will be a bit different.
What type of gearboxes are you using? nice video thanks
Check my other videos, I'm using a banebots P60 16:1 gearbox.
great video...where did you buy the wheels?
They are from Banebots. You can check out their site at banebots.com, or get the wheels through places like robotmarketplace.
thanks
Realy good video, help me a lot! But i have some questions: 1) Can you show how to configure the radio for control the locomotion and the weapon together? 2) Have a way to control the locomotion with 2 ESCs using a pistol-grip radio controller?
Glad it helped. I will be covering the radio stuff in another video, hopefully coming sometime soon. Look up videos online for v-tail mixing or channel mixing, tank steering, etc. you can find many videos on youtube. it's more specific to your radio, so it's hard to explain generally.
Good night Robert, I'm from Argentina, I'll ask you if you can help me.
I bought an electric turbo for the car, it comes with a SimonK Firmware 40A and 5v, it also comes with a potentiometer.
I want to connect it to the accelerator pedal and it doesn't work.
I don't know if the explanation is clear, if you need my email, let me know.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Raphael
check out my video 'combat robot resource guide'.
casn we flsh for skywalker 30A ESC
Maybe. If it's not on the list, try googling and see if anyone else has used it. If not, just try buying one and see what chip it uses. Then you'll have to figure out the pin-out, etc. It is always easiest to just use what's already known to work.
Have you tried blheli_32?
I have not. The general consensus is that SimonK is better for drive applications.
this is awesome
If you put the bootloader on there, why don't you just use the bootloader on the Rx pins instead of soldering a ribbon cable on it?
because I JUST realized that! you're totally right, if I put on the bootloader, I don't need the header anymore.
im new to this and just ordered some parts. if i understand correctly once you have flashed the firmware with bootloader using leads soldered onto the board you can remove the leads and shrink wrap it up and then use an afro 3 pin usb tool on the rx lead to make changes in the future for ease?
Tires are the enemy!
Hmm. In my experience, flashing in public can get you into a lot of trouble. Thankfully, it's not so popular now that everybody has a video camera on their phone.
And streaking's a bad idea if you're a little... er, top heavy like me. Looks pretty scary in super-slow-motion.
Hey, I reserve the right to make stupid Comments.