Introducing the Loft Conversion Project
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- Time to start something new!
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I can't wait for this chapter of videos!
Please don't tell me I'm the only one who gets just a tad excited when they receive the notification 'the restoration couple have uploaded a new video'?
You guys have inspired me to take on a whole host of projects I wouldn't have dreamt before.
Keep up the great work!
lee I
Hi. Been watching the vids since the early days! Great work!! I'm in the process of renovating and extending an 1888 Victorian house with 9 inch solid walls. Everything stripped back. The loft has had new front and back dormas etc.
Ventilation, breathability, massive cold drafts has been something i struggled to get any clear advice on. Essentially I wanted to internally insulate all the external walls whilst maintaining some degree of breathability and avoid the interstitial condensation issue. We ended up battening out with 2x2. Silicon injected into the masonry holes and dpc stapled to the back of the timber. 25mm celotex between the battens with 50mm over the top. All joints taped with aluminium tape. 12.5m plasterboard over the top. In essence there is a channel of air running from the floor void right through to the roof eves.
I figure that this maintains air flow and breathability. With the foil layers from the celotex and the taped joints, that's my vapour control. Any vapour that does get through anywhere the air flow should take care of it.
On the slated roof, we installed vents, but the ridge tiles don't offer ventilation to all sections of the roof. So at the moment, a section between two joists that has a vent in it is the only section that will allow air flow. The roof should probably have been counter battened to allow air flow between the joists. I have a plan though!!
Anyway, thanks for the videos. It's really interesting to see how others go about doing things.
As always Tim , informative and well presented, love your vids , hope the four of ( + pooch ) stay well in these most trying of times .
We've got some similar issues with our rooms upstairs, need to update the insulation from the old woodchips that are in there at the moment. I need to post a quick video to get some advice first though. Thanks for the look at your renos, gives me some idea of what I may need to do!
Our new (1950s) house has a massive loft! In the future we hope to properly convert it and stick a massive dormer on the back, we think 2 bedrooms and a bathroom would fit nicely, or a nice big master suite! Look forward to seeing how you get on with your project, did you have the services run in ready? Electrics, heating, plumbing? Would be a shame to have to pull apart your good work downstairs! Regarding the wall, I'd leave it as it is. As long as you don't start getting condensation or damp on it, then insulation may be your only option, though this may be easily retrofitted when the room is finished (just leave the wall free of services to make it easy!).
By the way, though it may seem counter logical, I'm fairly sure there's a building reg that will require that window to open in an emergency. Sure there's fixings available to keep the kids safe yet achieve compliance with regs.
Exciting new chapter. Love to pointy mug tool;-) I do that myself:-).
I recon you should touch the outside wall with lime-based material and paint...in my humble opinion.
cheers
Tony
Definitely drop the plaster on the walls and paint the stonework. It will save you time
and you can always plaster at a later date.
please please keep uploading absolutely love watching your videos
Just getting ready to raise the ceiling in our 1880 cottage. Previous owners never insulated ceiling so it's always been a cold room.
Good luck, it's worth it in the end!
If you insulate the wall your tea will stay hot for longer... though a thermos mug might be a simpler solution to that problem...
looks great! looking forward to seeing how that goes.
One option for the outside wall is dot and dab insulated plasterboard. You get the free movement of air behind the boards and stonework, so it's less likely to cause condensation issues.
Excellent video, loving the content.
Love the videos and have only recently come across the channel! What is your background work wise? Clearly you know a lot about building/renovation! Also thought the bare stone wall whitewashed in the bathroom looked really good - same in the loft would look cool
Just to point out that buildings need to breath and by over insulating you can easily make a building sweat. Although you might think your keeping all that nice warmth in the air simply cannot circulate and get out so you end up with a very stuffy stale aired building and room.
Believe me there is enough air movement in this old house and not much chance of over insulating 😀. A breathable roof build up could actually cause more issues as it would allow condensation to form under the slates. Breathable materials everywhere else but not up there. Therefore the trickle vents and openings are direct to outside to keep things fresh 👍
I know I'm over a year late to this video, but did you consider fitting mineral fibre insulation batts and a rain screen to the exterior of the property to reduce heat escaping through the single leaf wall while still allowing moisture to exit through the mineral fibre and evaporate in the air gap behind the rain screen?
I know someone who insulated his upstairs ceiling, and tongue & grooved the loft for storage and ended up with condensation underneath the boards, be careful, vapour barrier maybe!!, if you're using lots of insulation.
hi can i paint inside the summehouse roof with oil paint
please help, has anyone used Celotex TB4000 ? We have freezing cold concrete floors, cold stone solid walls, single glazed windows in a single storey frozen house.....with restrictions due to sockets, low door heights, low ceilings how would 20mm of TB4000 help under thick underlay and wool carpets? Does TB4000 compress over time ? I have resin sealed the floors due to damp issues !!!! As always amazing and well presented videos, thank you
While it would make some difference it would need a floating floor over the top so you would be looking at a minimum of 50mm total. It doesn’t compress as such however you would need a flat subfloor to make sure it doesn’t move/bounce. If solid floors then the proper route would be to dig out to give you the space to do it to a decent level and meet building regs. But obviously that is more disruption that laying in top! Slippers are cheaper and easier! 😬
Contemporary everywhere else with the bear stone wall would look superb but it might be too cold without any insulation? Looking forward to this series of vids as I'm about to start a conversion myself!
Seems you're not the only one to suggest that. It's actually what we did in the bathroom with all modern but a feature stone wall. The rest of the house is all solid stone so a cold wall will be nothing new!
If the attic gets really warm, the stone wall could act as a thermal mass. right? I guess you could always insulate it in the future if its real cold .. my wife and I are renovating a 1806 Stone Home in Upstate New York and your videos are giving us the confidence we need to "do it yourself".. but, if you ever want to travel to the States... you're welcome to visit! :) Also, can you do a video about.. how you worked on the house keeping your Kids and yourself safe.. lead dust, asbestos.. ect.. it's a real concern for my wife and I.... anyways, keep these videos going!! love it.
+CafeManning thanks for the comment. Yes we have been meaning to do a Family Life v Renovation video for a while. It's not easy but just a balancing act. A safety vid is also a good, will get filming soon!
Can I ask how much the isolation material did cost in total (for the big room) and where you bought it from?
Maybe a bit late, but if you’ve went to all that bother with 150mm insulation everywhere else why not finish the gable off ? I’m doing a loft conversion and without doubt I’ll be dot and dabbing the gable end with 50mm insulated p/board min.
Certainly an easy addition if we felt it needed it. We have kept all our stone and lime walls breathable so that is one reason, plus it was nice to make a bit of a feature of them.
Great stuff, look forward to the progress. How many bedrooms is the house currently?
Was 6 these so I guess it will be 5 and an office when finished but can always convert back.
So is there any kind of air gap between the insulation foam and the roof or isn't it needed?
Yes, 50mm. That is the required air space to meet regs and ensures everything is dry and vented above.
Hi, I notice that you have no underlay between the tiles and the rafters. I have a similar loft with a tile roof and no underlay and I'm wondering if there are any potential issues to consider with taking a similar approach to what you have done here? Thanks
I do now as have re roofed the house but providing the roof is watertight it shouldn’t effect a loft conversion, ideally needs to be done though.
RGB LED strip lighting in the nook?
Re the stone wall....drop it all off and go natural. Your office will look like a proper man cave. Excellent old school look....leather chairs, old books and real wood furniture 👍🏻
Yep, like your thinking. I think I just need to tape up the doors and get the dust mask on!
Is that the mug pointing tool 2000 or the newer 3000 model??
😂 It's the 3000S , a prototype sent in for me to test!
In which case, I look forward to the review video in due course!
Is there a better place online to get the foam insulation boards (kingspan et al) as retail or from builders merchants seems really expensive?
If you can be a little flexible on size and quantity you can save lots by buying a bulk lot from seconds and co. They usually have a good selection of seconds or returned boards and also new. I saved over £1k at a guess.
Go all natural stone on those end walls and whitewash it. Will look great!
And lose heat out of it????????? maybe if you insulated the outside of the wall
It's an old house right? That gypsum plaster might not be helping the damp situation; using lime putty might help.
Yep there has been some gypsum skim over the lime in places. We restored all of the ground floor back to lime however up there in the loft I am not as concerned about it. Without taking it back to stone and starting again there is no easy solution for breathability so I may leave it as is and just stick with lime plaster where it has already fallen off.
Why did you decide to insulate over the roof joists rather than only in between? I'm planning an insulated garden room and would really appreciate if you could critique it for me! keep up the good work.
www.diynot.com/diy/threads/insulated-timber-framed-garden-room.474157/
The layer under is almost more important as it gives a continuous layer with no thermal bridging I.e the wood which can get much colder if just insulating between. It also acts as a vapour barrier which is important if heating the room.
Makes sense. So what was the gap between the two types of insulation for (50mm)? and do you just screw through that last layer of insulation to attach the plasterboard?
+Alistair Dymock the two insulation boards are in contact. You can use insulation then board over screwing through to the rafters or use pre bonded insulated plasterboard.