One of my favourite channels right now! Please keep this quality content up. I used your write up on my e30 M62b44 swap and have been a fan ever since.
@@Garageaholic I posted to our local/regional group, "NOLA BIMMERS". Check the page out on FB. Great group of people with some pretty awesome builds. Always welcome if you get down to New Orleans. (Just watch out for the hurricanes!)
Great video Frank. The oem bolts do require angle torque so I think these APR bolts are better. Even 6 clinder rod bearings in the s50 and s54 are is the same procedure. In the s85 when they cast the Conrods they cast the hole assembly with the bearing caps and while its cooling they crack the caps off. Thats why they are unique to the conrod. Also removing the spark plugs would make turning the crank easier
All great info! Yes, when using factory TTY connecting rods, you need to ensure that you have the torque wrench "swing" to turn it 90 degrees. More often than not, you can't get that without crazy extensions. Therefore, ARP-2k bolts with a simple "50ftlb" torque value is so much easier.
Really good video. I've built an S62 before but watching this made me feel tense.....I can imagine the stress doing this under the car andtrying not to nick the crank.
@@Garageaholic You‘re the man! That would be even better as I‘ll have no chance of doing that with the engine removed. I‘m by no means a mechanic and have no experience working on cars whatsoever so I would definitely have someone help me though. Theres‘s just no way I will let it happen that this car leaves the family after my dad just bought its successor, so I am already doing some research on the car :) It‘s a quite rare 25th anniversary edition in matte „frozen“ grey with the M6 rims and I frigging adore it. The engine did die on him once after like 200K km or so but he actually had a brand new one put it after that.
You do know that addressing main bearings requires the removal of the crankshaft, right? Do you know what it takes to remove the crankshaft from this engine? Did you read the description of the video? Did you realize that the scope of this video is not to address main bearings? Have you ever done one of these engine rebuilds before? Did you know that main bearings are not a problem for this engine?
Hey mate, great vid very helpful. A few questions, how'd you get the engine looking so good and do you need to use plastigauge on these engines? I see the BE bearings are a popular choice among beemer enthusiasts but is it possible to get away with using the acl version? And are you running std size and when would you need to go oversized. I'll be rebuild one soon. Thanks for your time, Dan
Hello Garageaholic, Enjoyed the video, but have many questions: Rods are bank 1 and bank 2 specific, no ID for cylinder, yes they are “cracked rods” and mated. Rods also cannot be interchanged by bank. By rod, VERY easy to I.D. based on shape of cap to rod, fit, and P/N. Why did you not replace main bearings with an engine out-of-vehicle? My experience is main bearings are also worn. Did you replace VANOS H.P. hose from pump to front of engine (internal to block)? What series/model year engine do you have? Early VANOS pumps had issues. I am worried and still trying to positively identify the pump generation (may have been replaced previously) How did you clean engine, it looks NEW! (Inside and Outer block)? I have THREE S85 blocks stripped bare and it took time and effort to make them look as clean as your engine. NICELY DONE! Why did you choose ARP-2000 vs OEM BMW fasteners for rods?.... Future replacement of bearings and non TTY fasteners? Cheers, Mr. P / P-Chai
Hey thanks!!!This engine is out of a 2008 e60 m5, so I believe early generation! Main bearings are not common failure, so I left them alone. I did replace the vanos line. I didn’t add that material to this video series though! Thank I cleaned with old fashioned elbow grease!! And it’s a low mileage 80k mile engine too so wasnt too used. The arp-2k studs have been proven by the community so I went with what works
Thanks for this nice explanation. Quick question to the experts here if I may. Is it essential to also loosen the fender and the body parts in the front to do the rod bearing replacement work or can this usually all be done from underneath the engine bay?
Hey Vincent - this is a permanent solution, for the most part. These are upgraded bearings - and while it’s a maintenance item, are designed to outlive the stock factory BMW bearings
1:05 "here are all the tools you need"........ 3:40 another tool appears not shown at the start... 12:20 another consumable appears not shown at the start. Also uses a trim removal tool but normal people wont need that as, apparently the rings will be so worn as to allow the piston to slide in the bore with gravity alone! If you're an owner of one of these and don't wrench on it yourself, dont believe this is the extent of the job. Doing the job properly requires far more care including proper assessment, just remember the bearing wear sent metal through your engine, the pump and hoses are notorious for deterioration and the crank can be easily scored if you don't follow servicing perfectly. When torquing fasteners don't place a hand on the pivot end, it throws the reading. Alsocome back and re torque them after you've allowed the lube that was hydraulically holding the threads and head to float to squeeze out. Apart from all of those points, I did enjoy you the
I Just got a E90 M3 and was thinking about doing the bearings but I think the whole issue is overhyped, if you let the engine warm up properly and use correct 10W60 oil then the chances of having a bearing spin is less than 1% As you found out the bearings looked okay a few has some wear but thats just normal, how many miles or Ks in the engine?
Firing order has nothing to do with the order by which we change the bearings. It was so I knew which bearings came from which rod to know if a specific rod was wearing faster than others. Turned out they all wore out equally
The video was entitled rod bearings, not rod bearings and high pressure vanos line. That may be covered in another video. Spinning the engine in 2 directions will not make any effect on long term reliability of the engine.
@@Garageaholic except that spinning the crank the wrong way and having the car towed backwards up in a flat bed while in gear has resulted in many vanos pump failures, especially on pre lci engines. But I’m sure you know more about these engines than I do, so you’re welcome.
Never said I knew more than you do - i am not an expert in anything. In fact there are videos out there that are way more detailed than mine. I was not aware that it was possible to destroy the pump by turning it backwards, but spinning it 1/2 turn in the opposite direction does not warrant a precautionary replacement of the vanos pump.
@@Garageaholic and this is why I said what I did in my original comment. Most people are oblivious. You had no idea that spinning the engine backwards could cause issues if I didn’t mention it. There are also chain tensioner and timing chain considerations too. there are quite a few bad videos on S85 stuff on TH-cam.
One of my favourite channels right now! Please keep this quality content up. I used your write up on my e30 M62b44 swap and have been a fan ever since.
Thanks Julian!!!!!
BMW FANS, why does he not have at least 250K+ subs right now!?!? Pass it on! Thanks for the hard work Frank!
Pinned!!!! Thank you!
@@Garageaholic I posted to our local/regional group, "NOLA BIMMERS". Check the page out on FB. Great group of people with some pretty awesome builds. Always welcome if you get down to New Orleans. (Just watch out for the hurricanes!)
I’ll look you guys up thanks skip!
Great video Frank. The oem bolts do require angle torque so I think these APR bolts are better. Even 6 clinder rod bearings in the s50 and s54 are is the same procedure. In the s85 when they cast the Conrods they cast the hole assembly with the bearing caps and while its cooling they crack the caps off. Thats why they are unique to the conrod. Also removing the spark plugs would make turning the crank easier
All great info! Yes, when using factory TTY connecting rods, you need to ensure that you have the torque wrench "swing" to turn it 90 degrees. More often than not, you can't get that without crazy extensions. Therefore, ARP-2k bolts with a simple "50ftlb" torque value is so much easier.
@@Garageaholic also they ensure even torque through thus improving the design and durability of the conrod caps.
The second I heard E31 S85 swap I had to subscribe. You, sir, are a madman in the absolute best way possible.
Thanks Stew. I plan to pick back up with the S85 in April in full force!!!!!!
@@Garageaholic Looking forward to it man!!
Thanks for the class Frank, very informative & inspirational. Keep up the great work on all your builds...
Really good video. I've built an S62 before but watching this made me feel tense.....I can imagine the stress doing this under the car andtrying not to nick the crank.
Yeah it is tough actually. A lot to remove just to get to the bottom end while installed lol
Excellent video best I found on rod bearings very easy step by step thank you.
great info frank . i am sure thats the 10mm socket i lost 12 years ago though ! :)
What is the technology behind the connecting rods & rod caps? Are they made by casting the rod & cap together, and then actually breaking them apart?
gathering info to have my rod bearings replaced. seeing some use plastigage. not you? what are your thoughts on this? thank you
Needs more subs this channel this is the best bmw engine todate so glad to see it being used
Appreciate that. Slow but steady growth.
Thorough as usual. You make this stuff look easy.
I try. thanks pal.
well done man ,brief and tutorial, great work,many thanks
Glad it helped
Awesome video! Wish I had the confidence to do this, and even more I wish I knew someone like you lol.
so the upper rod bearings can go any way or there's a way to install them??
No they need to match the lower bearings so they fit like a puzzle
is there a way to stop the bearings from wearing as fast? would love to "resolve" this issue
The aftermarket bearings are the answer.
This is so great. I'm planning to buy my dads E61 from him and this gives me that little bit of extra confidence :)
You can do it! I actually am planning to do more rod bearing jobs for customers with their S85/S65 installed in the car still. Regular service work
@@Garageaholic You‘re the man! That would be even better as I‘ll have no chance of doing that with the engine removed. I‘m by no means a mechanic and have no experience working on cars whatsoever so I would definitely have someone help me though. Theres‘s just no way I will let it happen that this car leaves the family after my dad just bought its successor, so I am already doing some research on the car :) It‘s a quite rare 25th anniversary edition in matte „frozen“ grey with the M6 rims and I frigging adore it. The engine did die on him once after like 200K km or so but he actually had a brand new one put it after that.
Sounds great!! More info on that coming probably in March if you’re willing to wait!
@@Garageaholic How often would you recommend checking/ changing the rod bearings?
So you have installed greater clearance rod bearings and didn’t addressed main bearings while you had engine out?
You do know that addressing main bearings requires the removal of the crankshaft, right? Do you know what it takes to remove the crankshaft from this engine? Did you read the description of the video? Did you realize that the scope of this video is not to address main bearings? Have you ever done one of these engine rebuilds before? Did you know that main bearings are not a problem for this engine?
Hey mate, great vid very helpful. A few questions, how'd you get the engine looking so good and do you need to use plastigauge on these engines? I see the BE bearings are a popular choice among beemer enthusiasts but is it possible to get away with using the acl version? And are you running std size and when would you need to go oversized. I'll be rebuild one soon. Thanks for your time, Dan
BE bearings are a forum made choice...they are not any better than originals or acl
fantastic ， keep up the good work！definitely deserve more subscribers！
U could just used one of the old rod bolt to pull rod to crank with new bearing to make it easier to pull
Hello Garageaholic,
Enjoyed the video, but have many questions:
Rods are bank 1 and bank 2 specific, no ID for cylinder, yes they are “cracked rods” and mated. Rods also cannot be interchanged by bank. By rod, VERY easy to I.D. based on shape of cap to rod, fit, and P/N.
Why did you not replace main bearings with an engine out-of-vehicle? My experience is main bearings are also worn.
Did you replace VANOS H.P. hose from pump to front of engine (internal to block)?
What series/model year engine do you have? Early VANOS pumps had issues. I am worried and still trying to positively identify the pump generation (may have been replaced previously)
How did you clean engine, it looks NEW! (Inside and Outer block)? I have THREE S85 blocks stripped bare and it took time and effort to make them look as clean as your engine. NICELY DONE!
Why did you choose ARP-2000 vs OEM BMW fasteners for rods?.... Future replacement of bearings and non TTY fasteners?
Cheers,
Mr. P / P-Chai
Hey thanks!!!This engine is out of a 2008 e60 m5, so I believe early generation!
Main bearings are not common failure, so I left them alone.
I did replace the vanos line. I didn’t add that material to this video series though!
Thank I cleaned with old fashioned elbow grease!! And it’s a low mileage 80k mile engine too so wasnt too used.
The arp-2k studs have been proven by the community so I went with what works
Thanks for this nice explanation. Quick question to the experts here if I may. Is it essential to also loosen the fender and the body parts in the front to do the rod bearing replacement work or can this usually all be done from underneath the engine bay?
In the car, you’d have to suspend the engine from above, and remove all suspension and subframe components to remove the s85 oil pan
Hey Frank,
Is this a pernament solution/fix for the S65/S85 engines or do you need to replace them any time in the future?
Great video good content
Hey Vincent - this is a permanent solution, for the most part. These are upgraded bearings - and while it’s a maintenance item, are designed to outlive the stock factory BMW bearings
I'm in MA, with no mechanics that would dare replace my bearings. Do you take cars in?
Sorry not lately
I seen people go 25tf then go 50ft on torque bolts witch one is correct?
It depends on that rod bearing bolts you use.
ARP bolts seen them to that torque 25ft then 50ft
The instructions provided to me by ARP were to torque directly to 50. Many others have also done that.
Keep up the great work!
Very nice DIY Frank. The engine is in great shape too! Btw in which condition was the infamous braided oil line? Dutch regards, Nico.
1:05 "here are all the tools you need"........ 3:40 another tool appears not shown at the start... 12:20 another consumable appears not shown at the start. Also uses a trim removal tool but normal people wont need that as, apparently the rings will be so worn as to allow the piston to slide in the bore with gravity alone! If you're an owner of one of these and don't wrench on it yourself, dont believe this is the extent of the job. Doing the job properly requires far more care including proper assessment, just remember the bearing wear sent metal through your engine, the pump and hoses are notorious for deterioration and the crank can be easily scored if you don't follow servicing perfectly. When torquing fasteners don't place a hand on the pivot end, it throws the reading. Alsocome back and re torque them after you've allowed the lube that was hydraulically holding the threads and head to float to squeeze out. Apart from all of those points, I did enjoy you the
Thanks for the comments. Yes it is a very in depth job that requires finesse. I'm always learning, and appreciate the comments
And use a torque adaptor to make sure its 100% accurate
I Just got a E90 M3 and was thinking about doing the bearings but I think the whole issue is overhyped, if you let the engine warm up properly and use correct 10W60 oil then the chances of having a bearing spin is less than 1% As you found out the bearings looked okay a few has some wear but thats just normal, how many miles or Ks in the engine?
What car is this for?
S85 engines. It’s going into my E31 850i, but s85 belongs in e60 m5 and e63 m6
@@Garageaholic cant wait bro!! That sounds awesome!!!
How many miles on this engine?
80k
Type of Bearings ? Manufacturer ? :)
Cool Video btw. greetings from GER 😎✌🏻
6:08 fracture-split connecting rod caps
Correct. Thank you for clarifying!
No use of plastiguage?
Not for these bolts. Typically for TTY bolts you use plastigauge
me the first 5 minutes
*is he labeling cylinders by fire order or chronological order!?*
Firing order has nothing to do with the order by which we change the bearings. It was so I knew which bearings came from which rod to know if a specific rod was wearing faster than others. Turned out they all wore out equally
Well you neglected to address the vanos line filter and internal vanos high pressure line. Also you should only spin the engine in one direction.
The video was entitled rod bearings, not rod bearings and high pressure vanos line.
That may be covered in another video.
Spinning the engine in 2 directions will not make any effect on long term reliability of the engine.
@@Garageaholic except that spinning the crank the wrong way and having the car towed backwards up in a flat bed while in gear has resulted in many vanos pump failures, especially on pre lci engines. But I’m sure you know more about these engines than I do, so you’re welcome.
Never said I knew more than you do - i am not an expert in anything. In fact there are videos out there that are way more detailed than mine. I was not aware that it was possible to destroy the pump by turning it backwards, but spinning it 1/2 turn in the opposite direction does not warrant a precautionary replacement of the vanos pump.
@@Garageaholic and this is why I said what I did in my original comment. Most people are oblivious. You had no idea that spinning the engine backwards could cause issues if I didn’t mention it. There are also chain tensioner and timing chain considerations too. there are quite a few bad videos on S85 stuff on TH-cam.
If oil is not in the system during the time of spinning backwards, say like on a hoist, does it make a difference since there is no flow? Thanks
Is it just me are he did not measure the clearance of the rod bearings??
You don’t need to with these bearings and bolts. Just live, install, and torque to spec
A1 for effort & by no means do I wish to brag boast or pick holes here
BUT
your description explanation & method is not correct at all.
J'ai cette voiture c est une catastrophe faut dire la vérité
Most garbage engine in the world
You look like a minivan dad.. Toyota Previa