I have Old Man Emu springs and dampers on my RRC and worked a treat for me, as for rusty bits that fit in a washing bowl I use Flow high performance rust remover, just leave soaking for 24 hours and wash off and paint, with the 2 inch lift you might find the anti roll bar link ball joint rubber boots may perish quickly as mine do, I didn't change the prop or castor angle and not had any ill effects from not doing so.
@@BrianM0OAB Thanks for the info. I didn't actually change the prop shafts or shocks although I know one should. I have had the suspension lift for some time now (although that disappeared at the rear when the air helper springs failed) without adverse effects. I am being careful what I say in the video.
@@defendermodsandtravels I was told it's ok up to 2.5 inch but after thatyou have to correct castor angle and diff pinion angle plus longer brake hoses and maybe double cardon shaft etc.
I sometimes find I'm a bit swamped on bigger jobs like this, sometimes farming jobs out (where funds allow) can not only help but can achieve a higher standard in a shorter time frame, a local blaster makes short work of things like suspension arms and it spurs the job on when the blasted parts need nothing more than painting. I'm currently 1 year in on a 110 rebuild but the end is finally in site. I'm also in agreement with keeping things standard, I fitted a 1.5" lift to my ex mil 110 and it caused a vibration in the rear diff when on a neutral throttle! Took me a while to figure out but finally sorted with some genuine LR spacers that fit between the rear trailing arm bushing and chassis, thus dropping the nose of the diff, LR made them for the 90 when fitted with H/D suspension. Keep up the great video's. 👍
Cleaning up the suspension bits would have been a possibility for subbing out however I did that myself as you will see in the rustproofing video. Things like turbos, injectors, starter motors, PS pumps and alternators I always send to specialist shops. I need to finish the chassis and suspension work and then I can get the engine back in and then I'll be onto outfitting work. From then on it'll be straightforward.
A major rebuild can be daunting at times. And you are absolutely right about everything you touch reveals something next to it that needs attention as well. But when you are done, you know that it is done right and you know every. single. nut. and. bolt. on the entire vehicle. I have no problem at all modifying my trucks mad max style. But to keep it easy to work on, I use off the shelf parts and keep a logbook of what the parts came off of with the part number. Here in the UK the parts counter clerk only has one question "Registration?". Almost nothing on my truck came off the original truck. I went through google pics searching for a vehicle of the same make, model and year of every part that was different, copied the reg, and wrote it down. Now I walk in and say, "I need a power steering pump from a 2000 BMW 528i, reg is xxxxx. Please ignore the LR I just drove up in that you see out the front window." Works a treat!
Yes maddening when they insist on a registration number. I went to buy some engine oil from a local car parts supplier and specified the grade I wanted. The little assistant insisted on asking for a reg number (my vehicle has been re-engined of course), saying that if they supplied the wrong grade of oil there was the risk of "blowing the engine up". I bought the oil elsewhere.
Over here is Western Australia they'll throw a 2" lift on any vehicle that drives off road. Like a fool I tried it on an old 300Tdi and regretted it after the first drive. I agree that a lift is a completely unnecessary modification on Defenders for overlanding. Having said that, I understand your reasoning for your modification. Thanks for the video and I look forward to see what happens next.
@@ItsJustMe-e7h When I done the lift i also changed the tyres to BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A KO2 - 265/75R16 119R as I wanted an increased lift slightly as I drove through the East Pilbara. I personally found that at speeds above 100km/h (62mph) the steering became light, which on gravel roads became very worrying. I had it checked and the castor angle were out, so had them adjusted and I then changed all the tie rods and ball joints. Due to the change in tyre size the speedo was also out. Truth be told, i should have just left it all alone and just focused on a good tyre (possible a M/T). All the work and adjustment wasn't needed as the truck would have been fine with just careful driving a planning. My advice to anyone lifting would be just to check after the lift how its affected the other parts of the vehicle (driveline, steering, etc). Anything over a 2" is ridiculous and says more about looks than performance. I personally believe that Defenders come into their own off road and should be left as designed by the boffins at Lode Lane and I wouldn't do it again. Since then i've fitted Airbag Man - air suspension to the rear shocks to deal with the extra weight I was taking. Sorry for the long reply.
@@206898195311 I have actually had a 2" lift for a long time due to the power steering issue. At the front there are 2" spacers and at the rear there was a 1" spacer and the air helper springs which pushed it up a bit more (until they failed). I kept the standard shocks and prop shafts although one is supposed to change these. The tyres are 7.50R16. I haven't had any problems. It's a slow vehicle (no more than 100km/hr) and I drive carefully. For overlanding (as opposed to hard core offroading) I'd recommend keeping the standard ride height.
That is actually an interesting idea. I originally used the Daihatsu PS pump bracket, for obvious reasons, but then one of the mounting studs broke a piece out of the cast iron engine block, when I was travelling in Borneo, which is essentially unrepairable. I made up a new structural bracket which picks up the engine mounting bolts - which was quite a complicated little fabrication but has worked excellently. I could have switched the PS pump to the LHS of the engine away from the final drive housing. If I was going to do it now would be the time with the engine still out of the vehicle. With so much else going on I don't think I have the appetite to tackle it now but will bear it in mind.
When it gets to be more annoying than enjoyable, move on to something else and come back to it. It might take longer but you will be less likely to give up. 👍🏻🙏🦘
I will never give up because I'm not wired like that. However we are off to Malaysia and Aus for a bit and I hope to come back refreshed. Working in the middle of the UK winter isn't much fun however.
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Good progress! Thanks for the update.
looking forward to catch up next month Bill
Great practical advice as always
A labour of love for sure. That good old British Tommy ethos keeps you going 🙂
I liked this video. Thanks.
I have Old Man Emu springs and dampers on my RRC and worked a treat for me, as for rusty bits that fit in a washing bowl I use Flow high performance rust remover, just leave soaking for 24 hours and wash off and paint, with the 2 inch lift you might find the anti roll bar link ball joint rubber boots may perish quickly as mine do, I didn't change the prop or castor angle and not had any ill effects from not doing so.
@@BrianM0OAB Thanks for the info.
I didn't actually change the prop shafts or shocks although I know one should. I have had the suspension lift for some time now (although that disappeared at the rear when the air helper springs failed) without adverse effects. I am being careful what I say in the video.
@@defendermodsandtravels I was told it's ok up to 2.5 inch but after thatyou have to correct castor angle and diff pinion angle plus longer brake hoses and maybe double cardon shaft etc.
I sometimes find I'm a bit swamped on bigger jobs like this, sometimes farming jobs out (where funds allow) can not only help but can achieve a higher standard in a shorter time frame, a local blaster makes short work of things like suspension arms and it spurs the job on when the blasted parts need nothing more than painting. I'm currently 1 year in on a 110 rebuild but the end is finally in site.
I'm also in agreement with keeping things standard, I fitted a 1.5" lift to my ex mil 110 and it caused a vibration in the rear diff when on a neutral throttle! Took me a while to figure out but finally sorted with some genuine LR spacers that fit between the rear trailing arm bushing and chassis, thus dropping the nose of the diff, LR made them for the 90 when fitted with H/D suspension.
Keep up the great video's. 👍
Cleaning up the suspension bits would have been a possibility for subbing out however I did that myself as you will see in the rustproofing video. Things like turbos, injectors, starter motors, PS pumps and alternators I always send to specialist shops.
I need to finish the chassis and suspension work and then I can get the engine back in and then I'll be onto outfitting work. From then on it'll be straightforward.
A major rebuild can be daunting at times. And you are absolutely right about everything you touch reveals something next to it that needs attention as well. But when you are done, you know that it is done right and you know every. single. nut. and. bolt. on the entire vehicle. I have no problem at all modifying my trucks mad max style. But to keep it easy to work on, I use off the shelf parts and keep a logbook of what the parts came off of with the part number. Here in the UK the parts counter clerk only has one question "Registration?". Almost nothing on my truck came off the original truck. I went through google pics searching for a vehicle of the same make, model and year of every part that was different, copied the reg, and wrote it down. Now I walk in and say, "I need a power steering pump from a 2000 BMW 528i, reg is xxxxx. Please ignore the LR I just drove up in that you see out the front window." Works a treat!
Yes maddening when they insist on a registration number. I went to buy some engine oil from a local car parts supplier and specified the grade I wanted. The little assistant insisted on asking for a reg number (my vehicle has been re-engined of course), saying that if they supplied the wrong grade of oil there was the risk of "blowing the engine up". I bought the oil elsewhere.
Love your videos. Thank you kindly for sharing! And, if I count for at least one, you are not alone often disagreeing with conventional wisdom, LOL.
Over here is Western Australia they'll throw a 2" lift on any vehicle that drives off road. Like a fool I tried it on an old 300Tdi and regretted it after the first drive. I agree that a lift is a completely unnecessary modification on Defenders for overlanding. Having said that, I understand your reasoning for your modification. Thanks for the video and I look forward to see what happens next.
@@ItsJustMe-e7h When I done the lift i also changed the tyres to BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A KO2 - 265/75R16 119R as I wanted an increased lift slightly as I drove through the East Pilbara. I personally found that at speeds above 100km/h (62mph) the steering became light, which on gravel roads became very worrying. I had it checked and the castor angle were out, so had them adjusted and I then changed all the tie rods and ball joints. Due to the change in tyre size the speedo was also out. Truth be told, i should have just left it all alone and just focused on a good tyre (possible a M/T). All the work and adjustment wasn't needed as the truck would have been fine with just careful driving a planning. My advice to anyone lifting would be just to check after the lift how its affected the other parts of the vehicle (driveline, steering, etc). Anything over a 2" is ridiculous and says more about looks than performance. I personally believe that Defenders come into their own off road and should be left as designed by the boffins at Lode Lane and I wouldn't do it again. Since then i've fitted Airbag Man - air suspension to the rear shocks to deal with the extra weight I was taking. Sorry for the long reply.
@@206898195311 I have actually had a 2" lift for a long time due to the power steering issue. At the front there are 2" spacers and at the rear there was a 1" spacer and the air helper springs which pushed it up a bit more (until they failed). I kept the standard shocks and prop shafts although one is supposed to change these. The tyres are 7.50R16. I haven't had any problems. It's a slow vehicle (no more than 100km/hr) and I drive carefully. For overlanding (as opposed to hard core offroading) I'd recommend keeping the standard ride height.
It would actually be FAR easier to relocate the Power Steering Pump . Belt driven it can go virtually anywhere as long as it mounts TO the Engine .
That is actually an interesting idea. I originally used the Daihatsu PS pump bracket, for obvious reasons, but then one of the mounting studs broke a piece out of the cast iron engine block, when I was travelling in Borneo, which is essentially unrepairable. I made up a new structural bracket which picks up the engine mounting bolts - which was quite a complicated little fabrication but has worked excellently. I could have switched the PS pump to the LHS of the engine away from the final drive housing. If I was going to do it now would be the time with the engine still out of the vehicle. With so much else going on I don't think I have the appetite to tackle it now but will bear it in mind.
What about an electric power steering pump? Zafira or Mercedes.
When it gets to be more annoying than enjoyable, move on to something else and come back to it. It might take longer but you will be less likely to give up. 👍🏻🙏🦘
I will never give up because I'm not wired like that. However we are off to Malaysia and Aus for a bit and I hope to come back refreshed. Working in the middle of the UK winter isn't much fun however.
@@defendermodsandtravels I’m sure you will enjoy a bit of sunshine here in Oz. Enjoy your visit. ☀️🌞👍🏻🙏🦘