Apologies about the wait - more videos coming up soon. Ill be doing a technical turbo failure evaluation series and covering visual aspects of turbo failures and how to determine (the basics only) what the cause of failures on turbocharger rotating assemblies.
@@TurboDirectSA I'm a nood to car tuning. Your channel is great in its explanations and physically seeing what's the ins and outs of turbos. Please keep up the good work
Very informative. It would be really nice to talk about the Audi 2.5 daza engine turbo and compare it with the TTE 700 hybrid. And talk about the options and what's the best cost effective solution like you did in this video.
We have some experience and knowledge about the DAZA engine, and the turbochargers (hybrids) that run on these engines. Ill cover this in a future video for you no problem.
Thanks for this video! Got a stock 335i N54 DCT. Goal is a RELIABLE 500HP crank. No racing/tracking, want close to OEM response as possible. 1. So are all twin upgrades flawed then, whether cheap (Chinese 17Ts) or pricey (Pure or Vargas stage 2). 2. Can you recommend a top-mount single turbo kit that isn't wildly expensive? (Doc Race pricing is insane) Cheers 🙏🏾
@@stephenpato5524 I would stay away from twins using stock bearing systems. They are not capable of handling the loads with high boost and upgraded internal rotating assemblies. No matter what the name is on them. If you run two ball bearing turbos - different story. However I would run a single larger turbo inside of you target HP - I wouldn’t go top mount - massive manifold and lots of heat in comparison the the ‘stock location’ single.
I'm planning out an N54 build and have been stuck in a dilemma between the EFR8374 and EFR8474 Black. My usage is predominantly going to be on the street with at least 5 track days a year. I also intended on keeping it IWG (.92 TS A/R) for the sake of simplicity while pairing it with a TS equal length manifold. Compression Ratio will remain 10.2:1, E85 will be used, and the head will be ported with a mild cam. Power wise, I'm looking at staying around 520bhp(low boost) and upper 600sbhp(high boost) reliably. Which of these turbos would best provide a responsive and linear delivery of power?
The EFR8474 is totally the incorrect turbo for this application, it will be very laggy and just to large for your required HP target. The EFR8370 will make this power easily, and so will this turbo here:- store.turbodirect.co.za/index.php/shop/turbochargers/g3077r-forged-detail These are two options i would consider if this was my vehicle. The later will spool very quickly for the track and street and will make the required power and then some.
@@user-ki8zf1rp1e Thanks for the compliment - apologies we don't have as much time to make these videos as we had previously - but we do however have some special videos coming your way soon. We know you gonna love them!!
Hi just had a quick question about what you think of replacing the standard turbo's with aftermarket ball bearing turbos such as a Garrett GTX2680R or EFR 6258-A. Wanting to keep twin turbos and looking for internally gated turbo. It was quite difficult to find technical drawings or specs on the standard turbos. Would cutting off the standard manifolds after the merge and welding these turbos be a good choice for staying twin turbo? Should also mention, not looking for huge power as many are, 450 - 550 seems more than enough. just wanting stronger and more reliable turbos than standard at that power level RHD cars have very little room as the steering shaft runs right through that area making a single quite a difficult proposition for many of us. Sorry for the long winded question, was very curious after hearing your thoughts.
We have had experience with the N54 setup and using the stock manifolds, cutting off the turbine housings and merging the two outlets together into a single collector and running a single turbo is much better in terms of heat under the hood, space and ease of making up the downpipe and other lines required. The response of the turbocharger is also faster using a single EFR7163 Vband (550WHP) or EFR7670 T3 flange (650WHP) The EFR is by far a better option as it responds faster, lasts longer and has a much more reliable design overall. To make 450HP is easy and the EFR7163 will be the better bet here without a doubt.
Hi no it’s a efr 7163 with a t3/t4 manifold flange, twin scroll housing, and vband out, internally waste gated, I bought it years ago for a car that I sold in the end, but I was told it was the highest power output in the efr7163 combination and would be good for 600🤷🏻♂️
Great Vid, I have a weird question. My coworker went with a single turbo setup on his BMW. He gave me his old N54 Turbos. I was wondering if it would be possible to utilize one of the smaller turbos on my Acura RSX. Obviously it would take some modification and work but I cant find anyone ever rebuilding and reusing these turbos in other applications. Any advice is appreciated!
Good question, this turbo can be used for sure - BUT as a single turbo this would be VERY small for the Acura - you would get all your boost around 2500RPM (1.2-1.5bar guage pressure) and lose its ability to flow around 4000RPM - 4500RPM - not a suitable solution for that motor im afraid.
@@TurboDirectSA Hey thank you so much for the reply. It's a stock k20Z1 motor so it's high revving engine and for sure not suitable for such a low RPM. I would only run low boost but if I'm gana take that plunge with all the other upgrades needed I will just get a ball bearing setup instead. Guess I will sell em for my coworker then. Any idea what a set of 100k mile used N54 turbos are worth? (Obviously needs a rebuild) Appreciate the knowledge, especially since I'm not familiar with the BMW's. Also I'm in the PNW, pacific northwest if that makes any difference in resale value.
@@MrEvtmazda Im not sure of resale value at all in that side of the world im afraid - however if you considering the turbo route, in the near future, keep your eye on our channel for some exciting news in the next two months
wait so you're saying that at atmospheric pressure the wastegate is open ? ? why would be the reason behind it ? shouldn't it open let's say at a few psis before target boost ?
Nope - the gate is open until the ignition is turned on and the vacuum accumulator will then apply vacuum to the actuator which then pulls the swing valve closed. It will only open up again when the boost reaches the ECU's expected pressure - then the solenoid will allow the swing vlave to open up again when the target boost pressure is reached and recognised by the ECU through the MAP sensor and others under the hood.
@@TurboDirectSA Thank you very much for the explanation. I've been used to standard valves that just open under boost Seems pretty well engineered, but wouldn't it require being back to vacuum to re-close it ? What if I go boost, wastegate opens, I let go a little bit to go back to atmospheric (no vacuum), and then wastegate is always open ? Or is it like a vacuum pump that close it again ?
The real issue with the upgraded N54 turbos is going over twenty psi for a sustained period they can handle close to thirty pounds of boost but will eventually fail the thrust collars have to be modified to have any chance of survival
Ive been impatiently waiting for a new episode...Thank you Chris.
Apologies about the wait - more videos coming up soon. Ill be doing a technical turbo failure evaluation series and covering visual aspects of turbo failures and how to determine (the basics only) what the cause of failures on turbocharger rotating assemblies.
Great video guys. Always learn a lot watching every video :-)
Thanks for the feedback - glad you enjoying.
Thank you 🙏 this was very informative. Now I’m definitely going to a single turbo upgrade
Thanks Chris. All the way from Namibia
A Warm Welcome to Namibia - love that country, we fly paramotors there at Swakopmunt
@@TurboDirectSA I'm a nood to car tuning. Your channel is great in its explanations and physically seeing what's the ins and outs of turbos. Please keep up the good work
@@road_2_pow_r thanks for the comments, much appreciate it - glad people are able to learn something. More videos coming soon.
Thanks so much 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
another excellent video, thank you!!!!
Very informative. It would be really nice to talk about the Audi 2.5 daza engine turbo and compare it with the TTE 700 hybrid. And talk about the options and what's the best cost effective solution like you did in this video.
We have some experience and knowledge about the DAZA engine, and the turbochargers (hybrids) that run on these engines. Ill cover this in a future video for you no problem.
Thanks for this video!
Got a stock 335i N54 DCT. Goal is a RELIABLE 500HP crank. No racing/tracking, want close to OEM response as possible.
1. So are all twin upgrades flawed then, whether cheap (Chinese 17Ts) or pricey (Pure or Vargas stage 2).
2. Can you recommend a top-mount single turbo kit that isn't wildly expensive? (Doc Race pricing is insane)
Cheers 🙏🏾
@@stephenpato5524 I would stay away from twins using stock bearing systems. They are not capable of handling the loads with high boost and upgraded internal rotating assemblies. No matter what the name is on them. If you run two ball bearing turbos - different story. However I would run a single larger turbo inside of you target HP - I wouldn’t go top mount - massive manifold and lots of heat in comparison the the ‘stock location’ single.
@@TurboDirectSA Really appreciate your response, thank you 🙏🏽.
I'm planning out an N54 build and have been stuck in a dilemma between the EFR8374 and EFR8474 Black. My usage is predominantly going to be on the street with at least 5 track days a year. I also intended on keeping it IWG (.92 TS A/R) for the sake of simplicity while pairing it with a TS equal length manifold. Compression Ratio will remain 10.2:1, E85 will be used, and the head will be ported with a mild cam. Power wise, I'm looking at staying around 520bhp(low boost) and upper 600sbhp(high boost) reliably. Which of these turbos would best provide a responsive and linear delivery of power?
The EFR8474 is totally the incorrect turbo for this application, it will be very laggy and just to large for your required HP target. The EFR8370 will make this power easily, and so will this turbo here:-
store.turbodirect.co.za/index.php/shop/turbochargers/g3077r-forged-detail
These are two options i would consider if this was my vehicle.
The later will spool very quickly for the track and street and will make the required power and then some.
@@TurboDirectSA Thank you for the feedback! Really appreciate the time and dedication you put into your videos.
@@user-ki8zf1rp1e Thanks for the compliment - apologies we don't have as much time to make these videos as we had previously - but we do however have some special videos coming your way soon. We know you gonna love them!!
Thank you for this video 👍
Thank you for your compliment
Hi just had a quick question about what you think of replacing the standard turbo's with aftermarket ball bearing turbos such as a Garrett GTX2680R or EFR 6258-A.
Wanting to keep twin turbos and looking for internally gated turbo. It was quite difficult to find technical drawings or specs on the standard turbos. Would cutting off the standard manifolds after the merge and welding these turbos be a good choice for staying twin turbo?
Should also mention, not looking for huge power as many are, 450 - 550 seems more than enough. just wanting stronger and more reliable turbos than standard at that power level
RHD cars have very little room as the steering shaft runs right through that area making a single quite a difficult proposition for many of us.
Sorry for the long winded question, was very curious after hearing your thoughts.
We have had experience with the N54 setup and using the stock manifolds, cutting off the turbine housings and merging the two outlets together into a single collector and running a single turbo is much better in terms of heat under the hood, space and ease of making up the downpipe and other lines required. The response of the turbocharger is also faster using a single EFR7163 Vband (550WHP) or EFR7670 T3 flange (650WHP) The EFR is by far a better option as it responds faster, lasts longer and has a much more reliable design overall. To make 450HP is easy and the EFR7163 will be the better bet here without a doubt.
@@TurboDirectSA thanks for the quick response, really appreciate it. Will definitely take that advice on board 👍
Hi Iv got a 135i N54 and a brand new t3/t4 twin scroll EFR 7163 with vband out, will this work on a N54 🤷🏻♂️
@@InstaltechCarAudio Im not understanding what turbo you have - is it the T3/T4 or is it the EFR7163? These are completely different turbochargers.
Hi no it’s a efr 7163 with a t3/t4 manifold flange, twin scroll housing, and vband out, internally waste gated, I bought it years ago for a car that I sold in the end, but I was told it was the highest power output in the efr7163 combination and would be good for 600🤷🏻♂️
Great Vid, I have a weird question. My coworker went with a single turbo setup on his BMW. He gave me his old N54 Turbos. I was wondering if it would be possible to utilize one of the smaller turbos on my Acura RSX. Obviously it would take some modification and work but I cant find anyone ever rebuilding and reusing these turbos in other applications. Any advice is appreciated!
Good question, this turbo can be used for sure - BUT as a single turbo this would be VERY small for the Acura - you would get all your boost around 2500RPM (1.2-1.5bar guage pressure) and lose its ability to flow around 4000RPM - 4500RPM - not a suitable solution for that motor im afraid.
@@TurboDirectSA Hey thank you so much for the reply. It's a stock k20Z1 motor so it's high revving engine and for sure not suitable for such a low RPM. I would only run low boost but if I'm gana take that plunge with all the other upgrades needed I will just get a ball bearing setup instead. Guess I will sell em for my coworker then. Any idea what a set of 100k mile used N54 turbos are worth? (Obviously needs a rebuild) Appreciate the knowledge, especially since I'm not familiar with the BMW's. Also I'm in the PNW, pacific northwest if that makes any difference in resale value.
@@MrEvtmazda Im not sure of resale value at all in that side of the world im afraid - however if you considering the turbo route, in the near future, keep your eye on our channel for some exciting news in the next two months
@@TurboDirectSA will do! Thanks again!
@@MrEvtmazda Pleasure - anytime.
wait so you're saying that at atmospheric pressure the wastegate is open ? ? why would be the reason behind it ? shouldn't it open let's say at a few psis before target boost ?
Nope - the gate is open until the ignition is turned on and the vacuum accumulator will then apply vacuum to the actuator which then pulls the swing valve closed. It will only open up again when the boost reaches the ECU's expected pressure - then the solenoid will allow the swing vlave to open up again when the target boost pressure is reached and recognised by the ECU through the MAP sensor and others under the hood.
@@TurboDirectSA Thank you very much for the explanation. I've been used to standard valves that just open under boost
Seems pretty well engineered, but wouldn't it require being back to vacuum to re-close it ?
What if I go boost, wastegate opens, I let go a little bit to go back to atmospheric (no vacuum), and then wastegate is always open ?
Or is it like a vacuum pump that close it again ?
@@Gurdil95 there is a vacuum.acumulator which will always apply vacuum to.the swing valve when you come off the throttle.
The real issue with the upgraded N54 turbos is going over twenty psi for a sustained period they can handle close to thirty pounds of boost but will eventually fail the thrust collars have to be modified to have any chance of survival