Dividers | Shop-Sawn Veneered Panels | Sideboard Pt 5
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Watch our newest video: "A Fancy Dead Blow Hammer, a Back-Saving Quick Lift, and a Bargain Router Plane | Tools Unleashed 02 "
• A Fancy Dead Blow Hamm... -~-
+ The rest of the parts in this series can be found in our playlist: • Walnut & Copper Sidebo...
+ Looking for the summary video for this project? Go here: • So Much Extra! | Walnu...
+ Download the FREE plans here: thewoodwhisper...
Stuff Shown in this Series:
Amana Countersink Bit - amzn.to/4bCLdnO
Bumblechutes Finish (save 10% with coupon code TWW10) - www.bumblechut...
Backside Sandpaper - backsidesandpa...
Milwaukee Die Grinder - amzn.to/429sbkY
Carbide Burr (Ball) - amzn.to/3tZm85M
Large Core Box Bit - amzn.to/422HziZ
Mouse Card Scraper - thewoodwhisper...
Leigh Dovetail Jig - www.rockler.co...
My Vacuum Press Setup: www.vacupress....
Edge Guide - amzn.to/3T15AEp
Taper Maker Hardware Kit - thewoodwhisper...
Revmark White Marker - amzn.to/46qTeZu
White Pencil - amzn.to/484V5V5
Festool Domino - amzn.to/3Gby2vO
Festool OF1400 Router - amzn.to/3RbM3Qy
1/4" Upspiral Bit - amzn.to/3G8JJ6z
Titebond Extend - amzn.to/47LFPvW
Dovetail Bit - amzn.to/47g4CZj
Milwaukee Die Grinder - amzn.to/3sMmL1P
Cover Bit - amzn.to/3sKorJf
Preppin Weapon Sanding Block - amzn.to/3sJtPwi
Milwaukee Compact Router - amzn.to/3RamQG5
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![[UNCUT] “อภิสิทธิ์” ครม.อุ๊งอิ๊ง แย่งเก้าอี้กันฝุ่นตลบ “ทักษิณ” บงการเอง Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I 21ส.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/a_b-kItw2jY/mqdefault.jpg)
Take the Morley Lounge Chair course in the Guild! thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/morley-lounge-chair/
Mark freaking crushing it these days; dropping videos like a mutha! Love it man. You’re the OG and the reason I know most of what I know about this hobby. So glad your new shop is helping you create more great content.
Loving the latest series. Reminds me of the basics videos baby Marc put out 15 years ago that I watched on a Zune 😅
RIP, Zune 😢
That support on the top of the jig is really a neat trick! I am always amazed at simple tricks and that is something that was there all a long but I certainly never thought of it. I wish I had that creative of a mind but maybe with more time in the shop will come those types of insights. Thanks for the great videos
Another great episode in the series.
You have a great voice for narration of audiobooks etc.
Very cool! This is the first time I have seen vacuum bags being used, such a neat tip! 😍
Thanks Marc for making these high quality videos! I am loving this entire series! That shop made veneer panel came out pretty nice looking! I have never done that but you make it look so easy! I am going to look into that vacuum bag and might give it a try at some point! I’ve seen Keith Johnson do it as well before so it must not be as hard as I thought it would be.
Love the content. Have you ever look into Rockler Silicone Glue Brush Set for Festool Domino Joinery System? They work great and are on sale right now. Just squirt the glue into the mortise and then insert the glue brush and push it in and out a few time to spread the glue to all the mortise side walls, then insert Domino. One of the better ideas from Rockler.
It's looking great.
Great stuff. thnks bid
Wouldn't you be able to elongate the holes in the slides to accommodate wood movement? Also, would these slides cause issues if you made solid wood drawer boxes?
Gorgeous
No drippies ? Not on a Wednesday morning !
thank you
Fantastic!
I’m learning so much from this series, thank you Mark! How do like those Bessey Ibeam clamps? Are they “better” than pipe clamps?
The Ibeam clamps are interesting. They're built like a tank and can apply enough pressure to break your project with ease. So I'd say they're better in just about every way when compared to pipe clamps, except for the price.
Could you not just use contact cement for the glue up on those panels?
I like your videos and you "mostly" use sound methods to build. The cabinet in this video is an age-old way of building the carcass. And most of the ones I have seen end up sagging in the middle. It is too late now but the rails along the bottom and top will sag with the weight. If possible I would recommend you either add more legs in the middle or add rails with faces of the rails facing forward. Second, the divider panels with the veneered panels. The frames for those panels have groves to accept the panels and then you added Domino's. Let me say up front that I have literally cut thousands, I quit counting at 10,000 mortices that I have cut with my Domino. Those frame rails, had you cut them a bit longer and cut stub tenons on both ends of the rails to fit into groves of the stiles would have filled the holes that you said would be hidden and they would have made glue up go twice as fast. But If you just wanted to use the Domino for this that is OK too.. But a stronger joint would have been with stub tenons on the rails and no voids in the joint.
lol love a good back-handed compliment. To your point, all I can say is keep watching. The rail orientation is the main reason this project did not end up as a paid course and it's something I address later in the build. As for the stub tenons, my brain was simply in Domino mode so I didn't even think about changing gears for stub tenons. Fortunately, it makes little difference in the finished product.
I’m shocked he counted his 9,759th mortise!
@@woodwhisperer I really do enjoy your videos, I have been watching them for 15 plus years, prior to you building your big shop in Arizona. I started WW when I was 10, almost 60 years ago. Did you design this project on a computer? If so what program are you using. Just curious, I have been using SketchUp for about 14 years and numerous other CAD programs since 86.
@@mmgodfrey An easy fast way to count mortises is to multiply the 5 cases of 1,800 piece Domino’s times 2. You can probably do the math and see that I stopped counting after 3 cases.
@@11211lcb I use SketchUp for almost every project. I don't usually work out every detail before starting the build, but I usually use it to work out proportions and joinery.
👍👍👍👍👍
Why not use a cold press glue? It’s designed to only stay in the press for an hour.
Because I didn’t have any. 😉
How do you attach your aluminum aux fence to your sawstop fence?
Is that drum sander the SuperMax 25-2 ? Looks like it. Is it better to have a single width or one like a 19/38?
That is a 25-2. I wouldn't say one or the other is better...just depends on your perspective. The cantilevered designs are nice as you can theoretically get double the width with half the footprint. The fixed width models are potentially more stable, but at the expense of getting that extra width. Since making this series I actually sold that unit in favor of a smaller cantilevered model...the 25-50. I want the smaller footprint and rarely sand anything approaching 25".
@@woodwhisperer Did you stay with the SuperMax, Laguna?
Can u add that miter accessory to an incra miter gauge?
I don’t think so.
I’ve seen you do several things lately (like the panel groves on these dividers) that would have seemed to me to have been easier on the router table. Do you not currently have a router table? Or is 5:09 there another reason that you didn’t use the router table for these tasks?
Personal preference I guess. I find the table saw to be cleaner and more efficient with less tooling wear and tear. And honestly, any time I have an alternative to a blind cut at the router table, I'm going to take it. I've had a few incidents in the past where the bit loosens up and starts coming out of the collet. Because the bit is under the workpiece, you can't see it until it's too late. So it's generally not going to be a "go to" method for me, especially when there's a more appealing way to do it.
@@woodwhisperer fair enough. Thanks for the reply!
Marc, could please explain (@6:36) the set up in order to get this .25 inch groove exactly in the center? I hear this all the time. I mean, seems like you have to be precise in order for this to happen but the way everyone talks about it, seems like there is a trick to it or something. I know, it could just be that I am a dumbass so if so, be gentle.
By flipping the piece and running both side A and side B along the fence, you end up with a centered groove because the blade has referenced the same distance away from the fence on either side to meet in the middle.
If your first measurement was close to accurate and you were to run the workpiece through only once, you would end up with a thin groove that's slightly off-center. By flipping and running it through twice, you create a slightly wider groove that's perfectly centered.
Marc then adjusts the fence placement, nudging it bit by bit with subsequent passes until the "twice through" groove is wide enough for the fit-up.
Thanks for the explanation. Seems like you need to know exactly how far off center you need to set your fence in order to get the .25 inch measurement and then have it be exactly in the center. I mean, you set the the blade perfectly in the of the piece, if you flipped it and ran it again, the groove would be right in the center and therefore have no affect. Is there a rule of thumb or a measurement based on the width of your blade or something to get this to work? Or....am I making a mountain out of a mole hill? Thanks again.
@@LunarEclipsism1
The kerf of the blade is only 1/8" but the groove you are making is 1/4". If you just get it close to center with the first cut then flip it over and cut it from the other side, you'll have a groove somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4", but it will be perfectly centered. Use calipers to figure out how wide your groove is. You'll then move the fence out (by an amount no more than half of the difference between what you measured and 1/4") and repeat those cutting steps until you get a perfectly centered 1/4" groove.
Thanks. I knew I was making more of this than necessary.@@rolfgjertsen3588
That vacuum bag is pretty trick but not everyone has one.
I don't know....some commenters are really good at sucking the air out of the room.
Good thing you can always use clamps and a few battens to press veneer...
Why does anyone use a table saw wearing jewelry and or long sleeve shirts or sweat shirts? Never, ever in my shop on any equipment period. Only takes a Millisecond for disaster ,just saying . Safety is absolutely first .
I think Marc is skilled enough to be alright there, Ty.
Agreed, I just go shirtless all the time I'm in the shop.
You are right, why bother with preventive steps. In fact just forget about goggles as well. Mark is quick enough to avoid projectiles heading for his face. Can’t believe you made that comment.
I wear a sweatshirt because it's cold. Woodworking, as you know, is a game of calculated risks. You can never be 100% safe but we make hundreds of decisions a day that hopefully get us as close to 100% as possible. But we have to balance that effort with common sense elements like comfort. Wearing long sleeves is one of those calculated risks I take because I'm not a moron around my tools. A tight fitting long sleeve article of clothing is only a risk if you're dumb enough to put your arm near a spinning tool. Not your hand....your arm. I use a blade guard, push sticks, and I have a Sawstop. Anything that results in my hands, let alone my wrists, being close to the blade would have to be monumentally stupid. Thankfully, I'm somewhere north of monumentally stupid. Feel free to make different choices in your shop, but please don't act like everyone else that makes different calculations than you is somehow doing it wrong.
So… you not a moron around your tools, only when recording your podcast? 😂 kidding- keep doing what you do, enjoy all of it!