My Dad died several years ago leaving me his Vacheron he bought in the late 1950s to my knowledge he never had any service done and wore it only at the weekend it was running badly but still in beautiful condition .I sent it to VC for service several years later it still keeps fantastic time its a reference 6292 with the 454 5b movement its will go to my son .Great video thank you!
Back in my young days, I was a mechanic. You could always tell when you were looking at an engine that a "Really good" mechanic had built. As a watch maker you can do the same. It is always a pleasure to work on something that whoever built it, cared enough to do it not only right, but with excellence.
3:45 -- "This is not a Psycho!" I see what you did there. 4:30 -- That was adorable. 9:25 was honestly the hardest hammering I've ever seen from a watchmaker -- but on the other hand, I've never see someone try to flatten a wheel like this before. For some reason, 16:45 reminded me that the biggest difficulty I still have with tweezering is in turning parts over. I say "for some reason" because I see you turn parts over all the time and I don't normally ruminate on my lack of coordination or wrist flexibility or whatever. But then, I may be drinking right now. Thanks for another excellent video. I do watch other watchmaking channels, and I have to say that one in particular, while extremely informative, makes me appreciate your MUCH more concise and pointed explanations.
The finishing reminds me of old furniture, where the joints and finishing in places you'd never see, are done perfectly, just as if they would be seen every day. It is pride in your work that you hardly ever see anymore.
Hi Stian, I have been following your work for a wile now and I need to tell you: watching your work is the most relaxing way of disconnecting from a day of caring my cross at an industrial level. I am an engineer (machine tools & robots) by trade and I'm specialized in industrial heaters and burners but the industry is a compromised place, from training, to understanding, from development to implementing to production, the pride of one's work is disappearing. Seeing the black finish on some of this components is, to use my wife's words, "a message in a bottle", a message from one artist to another; I do agree, in spite of the practicability of time keeping a watch, more so, a mechanical watch is a piece of jewellery. A mechanical watch is, at an artistic level, the "Bose-Einstein condensate" of our entire spiritual life on earth.
Thanks, that was a very nice message to read :) I fully agree that's a nice way to view these little details, like a knowing nod between craftsmen. And in my experience it's always relaxing watching others work! 😊
In your comments you said VC is often said to be the oldest watchmaker continuously operating. I got into a discussion years ago on a forum about this topic. My response was Gallet is the oldest watchmaker, established 1466, and continues to today by the same family. The reply to my comment blew my mind, Nicolas Hayek Sr, responded that it was nice to see someone who knows their history, and joked they still are holding out from selling to him. That’s my little story about the topic of oldest watchmaker. Love your videos, keep them coming!
Thanks for the comment, Michael! Yes, there's some nitpicking and footnotes whenever these discussions come up, such as continuous operation, registration of brand names etc. But Gallet can certainly trace their horological roots back longer than anyone else.
Thank you Stian, another great video, with a beautiful watch! I always love the problem solving and fixing. I don’t think I have a question this time, doh!
When you first announced this video, I was wondering if the abuse was from previous owners or inept watchmakers. It is very sad to see the damage on this beautiful watch. I am enjoying your videos and have joined!
Stian, this was SOO timely. I had to service me vintage Hamilton 910 pocket watch that was positionally unstable and ran 30-45 min fast/day. The extended staff/pivot of the second wheel (4th wheel) was bent (among other things). While I have a couple of spare movements to get parts from, the diameter of the staff on the other two was different and they would not fit through the plate jewel. I had to straighten the staff instead. Since I do not have a torch and a jewelers lathe, I chucked the wheel and centered it in a pin vise. After assuring that spinning the vise kept the pivot of the staff in a stable location, I used a flat pair of tweezers and pulled the staff carefully until it straightened. Since I couldn't heat it properly, I did this VERY carefully. It came out STRAIGHT! I tested it in my truing calipers and all looked perfect.This watch is now running with an amplitude approaching 300 degrees and beat error of under 2 ms. It is also keeping time within +-30 sec/day, all of which is massively better than before.
Thank you for treating this lovely old Vacheron with the requisite care, in contrast to the previous buzzsaw mcscrewdriverhands. As for the finishing being a waste, I defer to Keats - "a thing of beauty is a joy forever".
That particular watch was made in 1940 and had just a short run of one year. It was 32 mm, screw back, "lobe lugs" and a precursor to the more recognized 4218, "teardrop lugs" watches which were a 35.5 mm diameter case, and made by a different company. One important distinction is the crown. 4218 had the first "acorn" crown, while the lobe lug model had a large and rather awkward crown. It was also the first screw back case. Screw in case backs would not be used again until after 1955. The cal. 466 movement was just 20 mm in size, which was less influenced by movement on time keeping. It has the VXN import code meaning it was imported to the US, and had the markings as required by the import tariff act of 1938. There markings became a standard adopted by the industry as a whole. The markings were to list the number of jewels and adjustments on the movement. It is quite possible that it was serviced by Vacheron. The dial is refinished and the crown re-plated. I believe the case has also been polished. For collectors this one is rather low on the scale. There were not many examples made, and they do not bring very high prices. This one is complete with no replacement parts, and is a rather good example of this reference, given the restoration.
Wow! Beautiful watch! Especially the dial and hands! Wonderful restoration, Stian! I just got back from my regular Saturday excursion to the Protestant thrift store in Espace Tourbillon in Plan-les-Ouates, notable because it is meters away from two of three members of the Holy Trinity HQ's ( I purchased a nice pair of watchmaker's trousers for 1 Chf 😂😂😂)
I just wanted to take a moment to say how amazing your video was! I was really impressed with the quality of the footage, the editing, and the overall presentation. You did a great job of explaining the topic in a clear and concise way, and I learned a lot from watching your video. I also really appreciated the way you made the video engaging and entertaining. You kept my attention throughout the entire video, and I never felt bored or lost. I would definitely recommend your video to anyone who is interested in learning more about the video. Thanks again for making such a great video! I look forward to watching more of your content in the future. PS: I outsourced this feedback to AI.
The owner of the watch must be pleased to see the effort on your part to not damage the watch beyond what was caused by others. The finished watch is very nicely done and ready for dinner and a date.
Hi Stian. I find it hard to believe that VC would ruin a watch like this. So probably either it was outsourced to “someone” - or the owner was wrong. But of course you corrected it (as always).
A beautiful, simplistic watch which looks so elegant Stian. I don't know what you forgot to do, was it a 4th wheel? I really like the face of the watch, was it ceramic? I can't imagine the amount of work done in the 1700's to make a chronograph watch. I so enjoy your videos as you know Stian because of your great sense of humor and history lessons about the watch you are working on. I'm guessing that the previous watchmaker who worked on this watch was a butcher before he became a watchmaker. Cheers from this old retired coot living the dream in Tennessee. Peace to you and yours Stian.
Thanks, Robert :) I forgot to put the ratchet wheel on top of the barrel before putting the barrel bridge on. I noticed when I tried to wind the watch 😆
ANOTHER beautiful job. Amazing to see the similarities of design and quality from >75 years ago, compared to top tier (AP, PP, VC, A. Länge, GS & Czapek) watches of today.
Dear Stian: thank you so much for this beautiful video and the magnificent work you put into restoring this watch. As you mention, this is not a very complicated watch, but it shows what quality is about: you may not see it, but you can be assured it is there, and very much so. After reading and seeing what cost-cutting, dishonest, and blatantly unrefined modern-day Panerai, IWC, Tag Heuer and Hublot watches are (there are more manufactures that I could name) at exorbitant prices, you just have to admire such exquisite workmanship.
Thanks Yves, and yes, there's a lot of ripping off happening from some brands... It hurts me when I see a $200 movement inside a watch that's being sold for 10,000. That's just wrong and infuriating 😡
The fit and finish of the watch goes beyond the mechanics, it is truly art. One does not concentrate on the individual brush strokes of the Sistine Chapel, they see the art as a whole. The watch is no different, if the parts you don’t see we’re not perfection then the watch could not be. These pieces live on our wrist for years and run flawlessly. They are truly wonderful works of art by masters.
20:10 when I think about it, even a jumping hour or a simple seconds hand can be considered a complication too by the way that pallet fork bridge alone is a work of art.
Great video once again, Stian. But I am surprised that a watch of this class does not have a shockproof balance (incabloc). Coming to finishing in places not visible to the eye, I remember having read somewhere, probably in Readers Digest, that a carpenter was making a chest of drawers for a rich man. This man observed that the carpenter was spending too much time polishing the inside of the drawers. When he asked the carpenter why he was spending so much time on a place which nobody would see, he said that it is true, but every time I see or think of this chest of drawers, I will have immense joy at the quality work I have done. Probably,Vacheron thought just that.
Thank you for an other excellent video, on a beautiful, precision made time piece.. The fit and finish on these old watches are amazing. Thanks for preserving these treasures.
That's a marvelous watch and an impressive repair. Since I really hate dirt, it would be satisfying to know that cleaning the dial is not actually possible in this case, if that is indeed so. I did discover many years ago that Windex is very effective for removing the printing from watch dials in addition to dirt.
I were a watchmaker (and you were my lady...kidding) I'd prefer to see a well-polished and engraved movement, for I'd either consciously or subconsciously take a little extra care in its cleaning and servicing.
Fantastic work Stian. Always well supported by the young'uns. The movement is just so elegant. You teasing that pivot......What was the machine holding and turning the damaged wheel?? I use a lot of horological tips and tricks in my normal work (Don't tell the chief) (Soppy sod can't take his eyes off my Doppel when ever we have a meeting) Shit. Sinead O'Conner has past. Also in my own non micromechanics endevors. As with yours, my horological project is now under way. I will contact you by other means. Thanks again for the demonstration of how things should be done..Without the use of a chisel. Bw from the Forest of Blackness. Mike.
Stian? Are you hosting Nekkid Watchmakers children for the summer so Joe and his wife can go on holiday? It's a fantastic thing you do.. The Way of the Hammer, starring Simon Pegg as you, then the sequel The Way of the Hammer 2, Electric Boogaloo. Chapter 3 Audemar's Revenge. Soundtrack by Run the Jewels.
Classic beauty, and 18K gold to boot--a lovely restoration, Stian. A question for you . . . Why put the mainspring into the watch cleaning machine when you are not going to reuse it? It did not lie flat, so must have had a twist?
Good question, Frank! The reason was that I wasn't sure I would be able to find a mainspring to fit the watch. If I didn't I'd have to reuse the old one after trying to flatten it...
As you have said, there is no time telling function to a watch, really. It is the mechanical art that is one of the things that makes any watch enjoyable to me, and therefore make any sense at all. My whole thing is different mechanisms and fineness with which they are finished (now, that being said, an Omega 550 is pretty finely finished; this is a whole different level beyond that). But I own a VC and PP precisely because of the finish quality, even though they are vintage and don’t have display backs. Its knowing it is there.
Nice job Stian, and as it turns out I have a watch on my bench with a bent seconds pivot :-( I've been putting off tackling it, maybe now I will give it a try
@@VintageWatchServices Yup. I did buy an alcohol lamp (burns hot) and wide tweezers to apply heat to the pivot and a pair of those same end tweezers you have. So let's see
Hi Stian!! Aways a pleasure to follow your videos. Please tell me, what problem did you find when you disassembly for the second time? What was the cause of the remaining friction? Regards. Mário Fonseca
I think the finishing is something watchmakers do for other watchmakers. The finer and more complex the finish, the more impressive the watch looks. At some point, this becomes mechanical art. Including artists and sculptors in the design team is a way to ensure beautiful and precision mechanics.
Once again we see why your skills are woefully under appericated on TH-cam. The level of workmanship and the ability to fix rather than replace seems off the hook to me. Moving close to 50K subscribers is a postive but this number should be 10 times that. Thank you for what you do and I will be Joining on some level today. Hope this gives you the time and resources to continue these videos and provide for you and your family as a professional that you are deserves. Come on people, share this with others and lets get this channel pushed to the levels that some of the other "hobby" guys are at. This by far is the best channel for true watch lovers and those who like to dabble in this vocation.
Thanks so much, Dave, that's very kind of you :) I do try to give good advice and insights (in between the bad dad jokes, that is) 😁 And thanks for becoming a member!
If a watchmaker adorns the unseen parts it could also be argued that the time spent doing so, might be diverted from putting that final touch of accuracy in the moving parts...😉
It is impressive to see the level of finishing and artistry in this "simple" movement. Do you know how much the watch may have cost then and adjusted for inflation now? I'd be curious to see. I love seeing the variety of watches you service on the channel and available on your store. I have three watches from Vintage Watch Services and can speak to their function, precision, and value.
Thanks, Clay 😊 Back in the 1940s I would think this watch might have cost some USD60-80, but I don't really know. It would probably have a value of about USD4-6000 now.
VC were the first to be awarded the Poinçon de Geneve. So the question is why do the Poinçon rules include such high finishing standards, that can't be seen? And why does VC keep conforming to these high standards? I suppose it preserves rare skills and by setting the bar high restricts entry. Getting the Poinçon of course allows the setting of higher prices. But it has nothing to do with COSC.
as usual beautiful job and the watch is the same…why didn’t they jeweled the barrel shaft? in a so nice movement it is quite strange, but maybe ‘cause this shaft rotates slowly…no words about the previous blacksmith with did about the movement
Thanks, Fulvio! It wasn't common back then to jewel the barrel and not the center wheel bearing either. Back then this watch had more jewels than most, in fact!
@@VintageWatchServices 17 jewels are not so much, but I was not clear: I mean no jewels into the barrel bridge and onto the opposite side (platine) as per Sellita 215 for example…often I saw other videos where the bridge’s hole became too big with too much play
I wonder why that back in the day they never put crystal case backs on so that the owner could get to see the movement. It would have been well worth it on a movement like this and the manufacturer should have been proud to show off their product.
These movements would indeed have deserved display backs, but the glass they had at that time would not have been strong enough. Display case backs really only became feasible with sapphire glass and those only became mainstream in the 1990s.
@@VintageWatchServices That's interesting, I just assumed that being on the wrist side of the watch the back would be better protected and have an easier life than the front.
Thanks! This is not a Geneva Seal watch, although it's great worksmanship. And the repeater is coming at some point, I'm just overloaded with customer watches for the time being :)
@@VintageWatchServices Ah I see. I hope you are able to finish it soon and if possible id love to see explanation of how all the parts that make up the repeater mechanism work. If that seems like a boring video maybe you can do long and short version like you did for the previous seiko. Thank you for hearing me out and happy watchmaking
@@VintageWatchServices Owned 23 years ago same watch which was found in trash, as it slipped under some alarm set in an old money drawer. But sold it quickly as had no money and bought my first new computer with the money. Also in 18k, excellent condition but sticky oil, not working. Was the only Vacheron ever owned. Think it was made 1947, pre owned by rich Munich lawyer.
What is the purpose of the spring below the seconds pivot! May sound like a dumb question but you don't see them really on any other wheel/gear. I have been working on a Waltham 6/0 D and it also has that. It is difficult to get it under the seconds driving wheel. I assume it is for some sort of shock protection but thought I would ask. Great video as usual.
It's a tension spring. Since the seconds pinion is at the end of the train it will not move smoothly unless it has tension on it. Best of luck with your Waltham :)
We now have confirmation that the children are indeed Swiss, how you may ask? Observe the fascination with movement parts and their location within the watch.
You forgot the setting lever screw! (I think) Beautiful watch. Update:I saw you put the setting lever screw in when you put the barrel bridge in. So I don't know what you forgot.
I share you doubt that Vacheron Constantin them self made those mistakes on the watch when they serviced it. But you'll never know. I had a Cartier on my bench a couple of months ago. It was a small ladies watch that belongs to an old lady i know. She had it sent away for service at Cartier about a year ago. That pretty much cost her a fortune. But waring it again she complained that it stopped once in a while. Me and my watchmaking friend told her discretely that maybe she doesn't move around enough for the automatics to work properly. That is quite the case with older people and automatic driven watches. This is a lady I see quite often. So one day I noticed that she didn't ware the watch. And when I asked her about it she said she got tired of it stopping off and on. So I said I could take a look at it if she wanted. And what I found was quite simple. The movement wasn't secured as it should be in the case. So the rotor most likely couldn't move freely. So I secured the movement and it runs great after that. So even professionals on a higher level do make mistakes.
Hello, once again thanks for your excellent work. The link for the digital microscope in your description, are they any good ?? Look kinda cheap for $110.
Could you electroplate gold, gold plate the case to make it look better? then after plating the case it could be polished a little? thanks, love your channel.
Thanks for watching! Electroplating leaves a very, very thin layer of gold and does thus not change the surface. If you plate a rough surface, you simply get a golden rough surface. So if you want to have a polished surface, you have to polish it before plating it.
....'the oldest watch company continuously in business'... So they were open on Sundays aswell? I'm afraid my watches gravitate more closely towards the 'diabolical trinity' of Timex, et al., though I can still summon enough self-respect to look in the shaving mirror each morning without cringing.
@@VintageWatchServices Gotta come clean. My feelings about Timex are somewhat ambivalent. My very first watch was a 'Hop-along Cassidy' manual wind in c.1961. I now find myself wearing a 'Fred Flintstone bowling rock' from the 1970's, in near mint condition! (although 'Timex' and 'Mint condition' is a bit of an oxymoron). The dial shows Fred, centre stage, but the rest of it is in 'Tiffany blue'!!! Having said all that, Timex's later offerings are 'cash-grab shite'.
My Dad died several years ago leaving me his Vacheron he bought in the late 1950s to my knowledge he never had any service done and wore it only at the weekend it was running badly but still in beautiful condition .I sent it to VC for service several years later it still keeps fantastic time its a reference 6292 with the 454 5b movement its will go to my son .Great video thank you!
This is the second time I have seen the gold cleaning solution magically turn into Elma once you put it in the ultrasonic 😊
Thanks for sharing your talent on this beauty!
I fully appreciate this level of finishing. You see, I usually chrome plate the inside of the oil sump of my cars.
😁👍
If you chrome plated your oil sump, you would feel that the engine is a bit more special.
Back in my young days, I was a mechanic. You could always tell when you were looking at an engine that a "Really good" mechanic had built. As a watch maker you can do the same. It is always a pleasure to work on something that whoever built it, cared enough to do it not only right, but with excellence.
Oooh.. That is a gorgeous watch!
3:45 -- "This is not a Psycho!" I see what you did there.
4:30 -- That was adorable.
9:25 was honestly the hardest hammering I've ever seen from a watchmaker -- but on the other hand, I've never see someone try to flatten a wheel like this before.
For some reason, 16:45 reminded me that the biggest difficulty I still have with tweezering is in turning parts over. I say "for some reason" because I see you turn parts over all the time and I don't normally ruminate on my lack of coordination or wrist flexibility or whatever. But then, I may be drinking right now.
Thanks for another excellent video. I do watch other watchmaking channels, and I have to say that one in particular, while extremely informative, makes me appreciate your MUCH more concise and pointed explanations.
Well caught about the Seiko reference 😁 And thanks for watching my videos!
The finishing reminds me of old furniture, where the joints and finishing in places you'd never see, are done perfectly, just as if they would be seen every day. It is pride in your work that you hardly ever see anymore.
Hi Stian,
I have been following your work for a wile now and I need to tell you: watching your work is the most relaxing way of disconnecting from a day of caring my cross at an industrial level. I am an engineer (machine tools & robots) by trade and I'm specialized in industrial heaters and burners but the industry is a compromised place, from training, to understanding, from development to implementing to production, the pride of one's work is disappearing. Seeing the black finish on some of this components is, to use my wife's words, "a message in a bottle", a message from one artist to another; I do agree, in spite of the practicability of time keeping a watch, more so, a mechanical watch is a piece of jewellery. A mechanical watch is, at an artistic level, the "Bose-Einstein condensate" of our entire spiritual life on earth.
Thanks, that was a very nice message to read :) I fully agree that's a nice way to view these little details, like a knowing nod between craftsmen. And in my experience it's always relaxing watching others work! 😊
Absolutely gorgeous. The polished faces on the escape wheel are insane. Your apprentice seems to be coming along quite well.
movement looks like modified pocket one but tiny
The way you annealed the pivot was a revelation!
In your comments you said VC is often said to be the oldest watchmaker continuously operating. I got into a discussion years ago on a forum about this topic. My response was Gallet is the oldest watchmaker, established 1466, and continues to today by the same family. The reply to my comment blew my mind, Nicolas Hayek Sr, responded that it was nice to see someone who knows their history, and joked they still are holding out from selling to him. That’s my little story about the topic of oldest watchmaker.
Love your videos, keep them coming!
Thanks for the comment, Michael! Yes, there's some nitpicking and footnotes whenever these discussions come up, such as continuous operation, registration of brand names etc. But Gallet can certainly trace their horological roots back longer than anyone else.
I love how environmental sound you are… cleaning a mainspring before you throw it away. 😅😂😊
Thank you Stian, another great video, with a beautiful watch! I always love the problem solving and fixing. I don’t think I have a question this time, doh!
😁👍
Well Stian all I can say is great job as always. No reports of trouble in paradise. Keep well from New Zealand 🇳🇿
Thanks, Bruce :) Best wishes from Switzerland!
Excellent again! I for one could sit through all those timely repairs you did....
😊👍
When you first announced this video, I was wondering if the abuse was from previous owners or inept watchmakers. It is very sad to see the damage on this beautiful watch. I am enjoying your videos and have joined!
Great to hear, welcome, John!
Stian, this was SOO timely. I had to service me vintage Hamilton 910 pocket watch that was positionally unstable and ran 30-45 min fast/day. The extended staff/pivot of the second wheel (4th wheel) was bent (among other things). While I have a couple of spare movements to get parts from, the diameter of the staff on the other two was different and they would not fit through the plate jewel. I had to straighten the staff instead. Since I do not have a torch and a jewelers lathe, I chucked the wheel and centered it in a pin vise. After assuring that spinning the vise kept the pivot of the staff in a stable location, I used a flat pair of tweezers and pulled the staff carefully until it straightened. Since I couldn't heat it properly, I did this VERY carefully. It came out STRAIGHT! I tested it in my truing calipers and all looked perfect.This watch is now running with an amplitude approaching 300 degrees and beat error of under 2 ms. It is also keeping time within +-30 sec/day, all of which is massively better than before.
Well done, Doug! 👌
Thank you for treating this lovely old Vacheron with the requisite care, in contrast to the previous buzzsaw mcscrewdriverhands.
As for the finishing being a waste, I defer to Keats - "a thing of beauty is a joy forever".
Very nice work! Thanks for sharing.
That particular watch was made in 1940 and had just a short run of one year. It was 32 mm, screw back, "lobe lugs" and a precursor to the more recognized 4218, "teardrop lugs" watches which were a 35.5 mm diameter case, and made by a different company. One important distinction is the crown. 4218 had the first "acorn" crown, while the lobe lug model had a large and rather awkward crown. It was also the first screw back case. Screw in case backs would not be used again until after 1955.
The cal. 466 movement was just 20 mm in size, which was less influenced by movement on time keeping. It has the VXN import code meaning it was imported to the US, and had the markings as required by the import tariff act of 1938. There markings became a standard adopted by the industry as a whole. The markings were to list the number of jewels and adjustments on the movement.
It is quite possible that it was serviced by Vacheron. The dial is refinished and the crown re-plated. I believe the case has also been polished.
For collectors this one is rather low on the scale. There were not many examples made, and they do not bring very high prices. This one is complete with no replacement parts, and is a rather good example of this reference, given the restoration.
Sounds like you have a lot of knowledge about VC, thanks for sharing it!
Wow! Beautiful watch! Especially the dial and hands! Wonderful restoration, Stian! I just got back from my regular Saturday excursion to the Protestant thrift store in Espace Tourbillon in Plan-les-Ouates, notable because it is meters away from two of three members of the Holy Trinity HQ's ( I purchased a nice pair of watchmaker's trousers for 1 Chf 😂😂😂)
Watchmaker's trousers? 🤔
@@VintageWatchServices Well, I assume they are watchmaker's trousers because everyone out there works for the watch industry! 😂😂😂
@@IMakeWatches 😁
I just wanted to take a moment to say how amazing your video was! I was really impressed with the quality of the footage, the editing, and the overall presentation. You did a great job of explaining the topic in a clear and concise way, and I learned a lot from watching your video.
I also really appreciated the way you made the video engaging and entertaining. You kept my attention throughout the entire video, and I never felt bored or lost. I would definitely recommend your video to anyone who is interested in learning more about the video.
Thanks again for making such a great video! I look forward to watching more of your content in the future.
PS: I outsourced this feedback to AI.
Thanks so much, that's very nice to hear, both from you and the AI 😁
@@VintageWatchServices 😁😁✌🏻✌🏻🫰🏻🫰🏻
The owner of the watch must be pleased to see the effort on your part to not damage the watch beyond what was caused by others. The finished watch is very nicely done and ready for dinner and a date.
The meticulous finishing of this movement shows an appreciation for those who service them. What a beautiful piece of engineering 😊
Hi Stian. I find it hard to believe that VC would ruin a watch like this. So probably either it was outsourced to “someone” - or the owner was wrong. But of course you corrected it (as always).
A beautiful, simplistic watch which looks so elegant Stian. I don't know what you forgot to do, was it a 4th wheel? I really like the face of the watch, was it ceramic? I can't imagine the amount of work done in the 1700's to make a chronograph watch. I so enjoy your videos as you know Stian because of your great sense of humor and history lessons about the watch you are working on. I'm guessing that the previous watchmaker who worked on this watch was a butcher before he became a watchmaker. Cheers from this old retired coot living the dream in Tennessee. Peace to you and yours Stian.
Thanks, Robert :) I forgot to put the ratchet wheel on top of the barrel before putting the barrel bridge on. I noticed when I tried to wind the watch 😆
It's an absolute joy to watch you working on such a beautiful piece Stian. Great to hear your colleague's comments too!
😁 Thanks, Howard!
ANOTHER beautiful job. Amazing to see the similarities of design and quality from >75 years ago, compared to top tier (AP, PP, VC, A. Länge, GS & Czapek) watches of today.
Couldn't agree more!
Dear Stian: thank you so much for this beautiful video and the magnificent work you put into restoring this watch. As you mention, this is not a very complicated watch, but it shows what quality is about: you may not see it, but you can be assured it is there, and very much so.
After reading and seeing what cost-cutting, dishonest, and blatantly unrefined modern-day Panerai, IWC, Tag Heuer and Hublot watches are (there are more manufactures that I could name) at exorbitant prices, you just have to admire such exquisite workmanship.
Thanks Yves, and yes, there's a lot of ripping off happening from some brands... It hurts me when I see a $200 movement inside a watch that's being sold for 10,000. That's just wrong and infuriating 😡
The fit and finish of the watch goes beyond the mechanics, it is truly art. One does not concentrate on the individual brush strokes of the Sistine Chapel, they see the art as a whole. The watch is no different, if the parts you don’t see we’re not perfection then the watch could not be. These pieces live on our wrist for years and run flawlessly. They are truly wonderful works of art by masters.
Stian, I didn’t start out liking this watch, but after watching the video, and seeing the final result, wow. Beautiful.
20:10 when I think about it, even a jumping hour or a simple seconds hand can be considered a complication too
by the way that pallet fork bridge alone is a work of art.
Yep and yep 😁👍
Great video once again, Stian. But I am surprised that a watch of this class does not have a shockproof balance (incabloc).
Coming to finishing in places not visible to the eye, I remember having read somewhere, probably in Readers Digest, that a carpenter was making a chest of drawers for a rich man. This man observed that the carpenter was spending too much time polishing the inside of the drawers. When he asked the carpenter why he was spending so much time on a place which nobody would see, he said that it is true, but every time I see or think of this chest of drawers, I will have immense joy at the quality work I have done. Probably,Vacheron thought just that.
Hello K, thanks for watching! This watch is from before shock protection became common, that's why :)
Thanks for the explanation, Stian. You are amazing!!@
That is a beautiful watch.
I could see Sean Connery starring in "The Way of the Hammer" for sure. Too bad he's no longer with us. R.I.P. Sir Connery.
Yeah, he would have been a good one :)
Thank you for an other excellent video, on a beautiful, precision made time piece.. The fit and finish on these old watches are amazing. Thanks for preserving these treasures.
Simple but stunning, thank you for sharing!
I always wish the case , and buckle would be polished as new , fabulous video !!!
Unreal result on timekeeping for a watch from the 40's! Top Job.👌
Glad you liked it!
What a beauty. Superb work to bring it back to performing well again. Great job.
Wow, nice heirloom watch. John brought it to the right guy to beat it back into its proper shape.
That's a marvelous watch and an impressive repair. Since I really hate dirt, it would be satisfying to know that cleaning the dial is not actually possible in this case, if that is indeed so. I did discover many years ago that Windex is very effective for removing the printing from watch dials in addition to dirt.
That watch is a beauty! Wow, on a whole next level finishing. Nice video
Beautiful watch, I have a VC from this same era… lovely workmanship!
Very cool!
Wonderful as ever, Stian
Great video!
Like VC, specially the ultra thin models.
Thanks for sharing the video!
Thanks for watching!
I were a watchmaker (and you were my lady...kidding) I'd prefer to see a well-polished and engraved movement, for I'd either consciously or subconsciously take a little extra care in its cleaning and servicing.
I think VC is the pinnacle of watch making and thanks Stian for another epic.
Thanks for watching! 😊
The "before" timegrapher shot looks like most of my brand-new Seikos when I put them on my timegrapher.
thanks for sharing, appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks for watching, Rich :)
And he is still the Pied Piper of timekeeping. Once the video starts, I've got to watch to the finish.
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Hello, and nice video and a gorgeous watch, nice voice and a nice lesson! thank you
Thank you!
Fantastic work Stian. Always well supported by the young'uns. The movement is just so elegant. You teasing that pivot......What was the machine holding and turning the damaged wheel?? I use a lot of horological tips and tricks in my normal work (Don't tell the chief) (Soppy sod can't take his eyes off my Doppel when ever we have a meeting) Shit. Sinead O'Conner has past. Also in my own non micromechanics endevors. As with yours, my horological project is now under way. I will contact you by other means. Thanks again for the demonstration of how things should be done..Without the use of a chisel. Bw from the Forest of Blackness. Mike.
Stian? Are you hosting Nekkid Watchmakers children for the summer so Joe and his wife can go on holiday? It's a fantastic thing you do.. The Way of the Hammer, starring Simon Pegg as you, then the sequel The Way of the Hammer 2, Electric Boogaloo. Chapter 3 Audemar's Revenge. Soundtrack by Run the Jewels.
Thanks a lot, Chris! Having small children comes with its own charms and challenges 😁 And I'd love to watch that movie 😎
Another lovely restoration!
Outstanding work Meister!
Thank you kindly!
the extra finishing is wonderful, because the wearer always knows what beauty they are wearing on their wrist!
Right on!
Classic beauty, and 18K gold to boot--a lovely restoration, Stian.
A question for you . . . Why put the mainspring into the watch cleaning machine when you are not going to reuse it? It did not lie flat, so must have had a twist?
Good question, Frank! The reason was that I wasn't sure I would be able to find a mainspring to fit the watch. If I didn't I'd have to reuse the old one after trying to flatten it...
Immer wieder sehr interessant ihr Fachwissen als Uhrmacher auf Video beobachten zu können 🌟
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As you have said, there is no time telling function to a watch, really. It is the mechanical art that is one of the things that makes any watch enjoyable to me, and therefore make any sense at all. My whole thing is different mechanisms and fineness with which they are finished (now, that being said, an Omega 550 is pretty finely finished; this is a whole different level beyond that). But I own a VC and PP precisely because of the finish quality, even though they are vintage and don’t have display backs. Its knowing it is there.
Beautiful watch but holy cow, what a train wreck!!
Got to get some of those musical cleaning jars😁
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Beautiful watch!
I'm not a watch maker, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night
absolute master class thx for sharing
Nice job on the watch.
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautiful watch indeed!
Nice job Stian, and as it turns out I have a watch on my bench with a bent seconds pivot :-( I've been putting off tackling it, maybe now I will give it a try
Go for it, Alan, just make sure you heat it up properly first :)
@@VintageWatchServices Yup. I did buy an alcohol lamp (burns hot) and wide tweezers to apply heat to the pivot and a pair of those same end tweezers you have. So let's see
Hi Stian!! Aways a pleasure to follow your videos. Please tell me, what problem did you find when you disassembly for the second time? What was the cause of the remaining friction? Regards. Mário Fonseca
Thanks, Mário! The endshake was too tight in particular in the third wheel.
GREAT VIDEO
Man VC really make the perfect dress watch imo.only rivaled by the reverso
I think the finishing is something watchmakers do for other watchmakers. The finer and more complex the finish, the more impressive the watch looks. At some point, this becomes mechanical art. Including artists and sculptors in the design team is a way to ensure beautiful and precision mechanics.
It started out as a functional thing but indeed became a sort of art :)
Once again we see why your skills are woefully under appericated on TH-cam. The level of workmanship and the ability to fix rather than replace seems off the hook to me. Moving close to 50K subscribers is a postive but this number should be 10 times that. Thank you for what you do and I will be Joining on some level today. Hope this gives you the time and resources to continue these videos and provide for you and your family as a professional that you are deserves. Come on people, share this with others and lets get this channel pushed to the levels that some of the other "hobby" guys are at. This by far is the best channel for true watch lovers and those who like to dabble in this vocation.
Thanks so much, Dave, that's very kind of you :) I do try to give good advice and insights (in between the bad dad jokes, that is) 😁 And thanks for becoming a member!
If a watchmaker adorns the unseen parts it could also be argued that the time spent doing so, might be diverted from putting that final touch of accuracy in the moving parts...😉
Oh, it's not an either/or for this level of watches, the decoration is an add-on :)
It is impressive to see the level of finishing and artistry in this "simple" movement. Do you know how much the watch may have cost then and adjusted for inflation now? I'd be curious to see. I love seeing the variety of watches you service on the channel and available on your store. I have three watches from Vintage Watch Services and can speak to their function, precision, and value.
Thanks, Clay 😊 Back in the 1940s I would think this watch might have cost some USD60-80, but I don't really know. It would probably have a value of about USD4-6000 now.
*A well finished time piece, especially a high quality piece, should be fully finished, even where it will not be seen by the wearer.*
*And longer shows are better, more detail is better; those who don't appreciate this, can fast forward.*
VC were the first to be awarded the Poinçon de Geneve. So the question is why do the Poinçon rules include such high finishing standards, that can't be seen? And why does VC keep conforming to these high standards? I suppose it preserves rare skills and by setting the bar high restricts entry. Getting the Poinçon of course allows the setting of higher prices. But it has nothing to do with COSC.
as usual beautiful job and the watch is the same…why didn’t they jeweled the barrel shaft?
in a so nice movement it is quite strange, but maybe ‘cause this shaft rotates slowly…no words about the previous blacksmith with did about the movement
Thanks, Fulvio! It wasn't common back then to jewel the barrel and not the center wheel bearing either. Back then this watch had more jewels than most, in fact!
@@VintageWatchServices 17 jewels are not so much, but I was not clear: I mean no jewels into the barrel bridge and onto the opposite side (platine) as per Sellita 215 for example…often I saw other videos where the bridge’s hole became too big with too much play
Haha I need to answer very simillar questions in very simillar sittuations (4,5 year old doughter ) as in the video. Always fun, Lol :)
I wonder why that back in the day they never put crystal case backs on so that the owner could get to see the movement. It would have been well worth it on a movement like this and the manufacturer should have been proud to show off their product.
These movements would indeed have deserved display backs, but the glass they had at that time would not have been strong enough. Display case backs really only became feasible with sapphire glass and those only became mainstream in the 1990s.
@@VintageWatchServices That's interesting, I just assumed that being on the wrist side of the watch the back would be better protected and have an easier life than the front.
great video again... never seen a movement with a Geneve seal be serviced be serviced before.
How is the repeater movement service coming along
Thanks! This is not a Geneva Seal watch, although it's great worksmanship. And the repeater is coming at some point, I'm just overloaded with customer watches for the time being :)
@@VintageWatchServices Ah I see. I hope you are able to finish it soon and if possible id love to see explanation of how all the parts that make up the repeater mechanism work. If that seems like a boring video maybe you can do long and short version like you did for the previous seiko. Thank you for hearing me out and happy watchmaking
Finishing which only watchmaker will see is also good for owners as watchmaker will be happy and do a better job.
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@@VintageWatchServices Owned 23 years ago same watch which was found in trash, as it slipped under some alarm set in an old money drawer. But sold it quickly as had no money and bought my first new computer with the money. Also in 18k, excellent condition but sticky oil, not working. Was the only Vacheron ever owned. Think it was made 1947, pre owned by rich Munich lawyer.
What is the purpose of the spring below the seconds pivot! May sound like a dumb question but you don't see them really on any other wheel/gear. I have been working on a Waltham 6/0 D and it also has that. It is difficult to get it under the seconds driving wheel. I assume it is for some sort of shock protection but thought I would ask. Great video as usual.
It's a tension spring. Since the seconds pinion is at the end of the train it will not move smoothly unless it has tension on it. Best of luck with your Waltham :)
We now have confirmation that the children are indeed Swiss, how you may ask? Observe the fascination with movement parts and their location within the watch.
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You forgot the setting lever screw! (I think) Beautiful watch. Update:I saw you put the setting lever screw in when you put the barrel bridge in. So I don't know what you forgot.
Not quite, Doug, I forgot to put the ratchet wheel on top of the barrel before putting the barrel bridge on :)
@@VintageWatchServices As I was going to sleep, I remembered that. Then I thought, "Nah, he couldn't have forgotten something THAT big!",,,,Oh well.
Stian. Thanks for the printer-ink explanation. I was thinking crypto-smurf
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Always send to the manufacturer with nice watches. I know there are good watchmakers just like there are good mechanics. But the rest... Yeah....
very nice
I always thought having a spacer ring for the movement was a sign of not being quality. ??obviously, I'm wrong.
No, there's no direct correlation for that. If the spacer ring is made of plastic I would start getting a bit skeptical though...
Do you know what the first movement was that got Vacheron a Geneva seal?
I don't, I'm afraid, I couldn't find it.
I share you doubt that Vacheron Constantin them self made those mistakes on the watch when they serviced it. But you'll never know. I had a Cartier on my bench a couple of months ago. It was a small ladies watch that belongs to an old lady i know. She had it sent away for service at Cartier about a year ago. That pretty much cost her a fortune. But waring it again she complained that it stopped once in a while. Me and my watchmaking friend told her discretely that maybe she doesn't move around enough for the automatics to work properly. That is quite the case with older people and automatic driven watches. This is a lady I see quite often. So one day I noticed that she didn't ware the watch. And when I asked her about it she said she got tired of it stopping off and on. So I said I could take a look at it if she wanted. And what I found was quite simple. The movement wasn't secured as it should be in the case. So the rotor most likely couldn't move freely. So I secured the movement and it runs great after that. So even professionals on a higher level do make mistakes.
And by the way. My signal when my mobile phone rings is that Psyko bit. So I thought my phone was ringing when I watched this video. :p
Yeah... You never know but I cannot imagine the watch having left a VC workbench like this... * Shudder *
Hello, once again thanks for your excellent work. The link for the digital microscope in your description, are they any good ?? Look kinda cheap for $110.
They're alright and pretty good for the price, but you of course get what you pay for...
You forgot to install the escape wheel.
Not quite; I forgot to put the ratchet wheel on top of the barrel 😉
Well, central seconds is strictly speaking a complication.
Yep!
How does one forget a wheel like that?
Is an art gum eraser ever used to clean a watch dial?
You might try it on a dial you're not afraid of ruining, but in general old dials do not have surface dirt, it's in the varnish.
Not many humorous moments... Need holidays asap? Wish you...
Cheers Stian, be well mate
Could you electroplate gold, gold plate the case to make it look better? then after plating the case it could be polished a little? thanks, love your channel.
Thanks for watching! Electroplating leaves a very, very thin layer of gold and does thus not change the surface. If you plate a rough surface, you simply get a golden rough surface. So if you want to have a polished surface, you have to polish it before plating it.
....'the oldest watch company continuously in business'...
So they were open on Sundays aswell?
I'm afraid my watches gravitate more closely towards the 'diabolical trinity' of Timex, et al., though I can still summon enough self-respect to look in the shaving mirror each morning without cringing.
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@@VintageWatchServices
Gotta come clean.
My feelings about Timex are somewhat ambivalent.
My very first watch was a 'Hop-along Cassidy' manual wind in c.1961.
I now find myself wearing a 'Fred Flintstone bowling rock' from the 1970's, in near mint condition! (although 'Timex' and 'Mint condition' is a bit of an oxymoron).
The dial shows Fred, centre stage, but the rest of it is in 'Tiffany blue'!!!
Having said all that, Timex's later offerings are 'cash-grab shite'.