Great video! Just swapped in springs on my M2C and this content was a big help. Used an alternate method on the fronts (support the suspension with a jack, undo top nut, lower the suspension and lean out) but this was very handy for the rears.
There are quite a few one-time torque bolts in the M2's suspension. It's highly advisable to discard them once removed and replace with fresh hardware. Also, all the bushings need to be re-indexed to the new ride high before torquing.
Thanks a ton for this DIY install video. It would have taken me 10x longer to get the job done doing it by myself. The camera angles, lighting, captions, and torque specs were all incredible! If I decide to do a FMIC, I know where I will be coming to look for another DIY! By the way, I did what one of the other commentors posted about - just lowered fronts enough to pull spring out, seemed to work quite nicely that way. Thanks again!
@@cw205mi16 Check out some M3/M4 videos and you'll see. Here is an example. Just pull down enough to pull out spring versus removing entire assembly th-cam.com/video/DZcwKY0SIXs/w-d-xo.html
Perfect, thanks! I thought that is what it might be referring to, saves time and using compressors (at least if you're putting short springs back on) and glad to see that it works.
The rear were done incorrectly. You must loosen the last rear bolt as well on the control arm bushing and allow the control arm to swing down NOT pry on it to remove the spring. Busing can and will result in damage due to the stress you just put on them and will fail prematurely. And the fronts you don't even need to unbolt the top hat. Support the control arm on the bottom knuckle with a jack to compress the spring fully and unbolt the center 18mm nut and slowly release your jack the shock and spring will come down easy. You don't need spring compressors at all. Repeat install and torque center and you're done. Realign entire vehicle. Done by certified mechanics ;)
rokan81 would you mind posting a diy with pics? My springs are coming this week so some pointers will be handy Somewhere like bimmerpost will get the most exposure
The bushes will tolerate much more twist than this and won't be affected at all by pulling down a small amount for this few seconds - it's certainly a lot less stress than what they endure as the car is being driven. However, a pro mechanic would spot that the bolts should be torqued up with the car back on the ground (or on a ramp) at resting ride height; this will ensure the bushes are not tensioned at rest which would affect longevity of the bushings.
bun dy If and when you do, don't follow the rear sequence they used. Loosen (but don't have to remove bolt and it) rear bushing bolt on the control arm. Don't pry or push down violently on the rear control arm like they did to remove the rear spring, you will damage the bushing and it will wear prematurely. Seen it a lot. If you loosen it by correct process the control arm will easily swing down without any force on the bushing and spring will just fall out.
@11:09 how do you know it's 34 ft-lbs? Looking at the latest video of Tommy L Garage (where he fixes the clicking noise), he torques the pinch bolt down to 55 ft-lbs. Any suggestions?
Can I ask why you didn’t undo the rear control arm from the other end and disconnect it from the subframe. Then you wouldn’t have to mess with the camber bolts on the hub
Hey Allen, awesome diy video. I plan on upgrading my suspension soon and was wondering if you reused the same nuts/bolts or did you buy new bolts? If you did reuse, any issues or troubles?
@@ultramagnetical gotcha! Thats good to know. I know some of these bolts are meant to stretch so Im thinking re-using them once would be fine. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the video! I'm going to lower my car soon. I see that you have all the torque spec but you don't even use the torque wrench. Where did you find it?
You have not adjusted the bump stops (cutting a piece off at the top as much as possible) because otherwise the bump stops are compressed in advance by the lowering, which results in dangerous handling at high speeds... cutting the dust boot is quite meaningless...So, improper information, resulting in a incorrect DIY. Try to do your homework thoroughly before posting a video like this.
Thanks for the video, best thing I could find online for M2 struts
Great video! Just swapped in springs on my M2C and this content was a big help. Used an alternate method on the fronts (support the suspension with a jack, undo top nut, lower the suspension and lean out) but this was very handy for the rears.
There are quite a few one-time torque bolts in the M2's suspension. It's highly advisable to discard them once removed and replace with fresh hardware. Also, all the bushings need to be re-indexed to the new ride high before torquing.
Matthew Leroux source?
Great video thanks a lot helped me installing my springs and saved 400 dollars
Thanks a ton for this DIY install video. It would have taken me 10x longer to get the job done doing it by myself. The camera angles, lighting, captions, and torque specs were all incredible! If I decide to do a FMIC, I know where I will be coming to look for another DIY! By the way, I did what one of the other commentors posted about - just lowered fronts enough to pull spring out, seemed to work quite nicely that way. Thanks again!
Hi, what do you mean by your last sentence "just lowered fronts enough to pull spring out"? I can't find any reference in other comments about it.
@@cw205mi16 Check out some M3/M4 videos and you'll see. Here is an example. Just pull down enough to pull out spring versus removing entire assembly th-cam.com/video/DZcwKY0SIXs/w-d-xo.html
Perfect, thanks! I thought that is what it might be referring to, saves time and using compressors (at least if you're putting short springs back on) and glad to see that it works.
Appreciate the video! Definitely helped me make sure I have all the tools I'll need for this weekend's install!
Thanks a lot for this you saved me a lot of money in maintenance I was able to do it myself from this video.
Used this guide from the UK... Thanks!
Thanks for the DIY video!
The rear were done incorrectly. You
must loosen the last rear bolt as well on the control arm bushing and allow the control arm to swing down NOT pry on it to remove the spring. Busing can and will result in damage due to the stress you just put on them and will fail prematurely.
And the fronts you don't even need to unbolt the top hat. Support the control arm on the bottom knuckle with a jack to compress the spring fully and unbolt the center 18mm nut and slowly release your jack the shock and spring will come down easy. You don't need spring compressors at all. Repeat install and torque center and you're done.
Realign entire vehicle.
Done by certified mechanics ;)
rokan81 would you recommend loosening the front control arms too?
Is there a video that shows the way you’re describing? If you can send a link I’d really appreciate it. Thanks
rokan81 would you mind posting a diy with pics? My springs are coming this week so some pointers will be handy
Somewhere like bimmerpost will get the most exposure
The bushes will tolerate much more twist than this and won't be affected at all by pulling down a small amount for this few seconds - it's certainly a lot less stress than what they endure as the car is being driven. However, a pro mechanic would spot that the bolts should be torqued up with the car back on the ground (or on a ramp) at resting ride height; this will ensure the bushes are not tensioned at rest which would affect longevity of the bushings.
cool, im ready to lower mines too.
bun dy If and when you do, don't follow the rear sequence they used.
Loosen (but don't have to remove bolt and it) rear bushing bolt on the control arm. Don't pry or push down violently on the rear control arm like they did to remove the rear spring, you will damage the bushing and it will wear prematurely. Seen it a lot. If you loosen it by correct process the control arm will easily swing down without any force on the bushing and spring will just fall out.
@11:09 how do you know it's 34 ft-lbs? Looking at the latest video of Tommy L Garage (where he fixes the clicking noise), he torques the pinch bolt down to 55 ft-lbs. Any suggestions?
Can I ask why you didn’t undo the rear control arm from the other end and disconnect it from the subframe. Then you wouldn’t have to mess with the camber bolts on the hub
Hey Allen, awesome diy video. I plan on upgrading my suspension soon and was wondering if you reused the same nuts/bolts or did you buy new bolts? If you did reuse, any issues or troubles?
I reused with no issues. But when I put the stock suspension back to sell the car, the bolts became harder to put back in.
@@ultramagnetical gotcha! Thats good to know. I know some of these bolts are meant to stretch so Im thinking re-using them once would be fine. Thanks for the tips!
Now you can take it all apart again and re adjust the preload which you didn't do
Pretty cool wrap ? Which color did you use it for ?
i think its called deep space metallic
U need to preload the bushings..
Why
great vid thanks
👌🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the video! I'm going to lower my car soon. I see that you have all the torque spec but you don't even use the torque wrench. Where did you find it?
i did use a torque wrench in the video. you can purchase one at any hardware store
Allen Barreno sorry I didn’t see it the first time. I meant the spec. Where did you get the spec?
Bimmerpost - used the M3/M4 spec
coming from an Audi, this is so much more simple
You have not adjusted the bump stops (cutting a piece off at the top as much as possible) because otherwise the bump stops are compressed in advance by the lowering, which results in dangerous handling at high speeds... cutting the dust boot is quite meaningless...So, improper information, resulting in a incorrect DIY. Try to do your homework thoroughly before posting a video like this.
Wow the rear is dead simple.
Soundtrack's off some porn vid?