yes on both off road and roadie bikes...best thing ive even done...but i still carry a tube on race days just in case...thanks for a another gr8 video keep up the good work
Yes my brother fixed tubeless tires on my MTB and I love it! You inspired me to learn myself how to do this for my race bike. So thanks for the video! And thanks for the update excuse to buy a new set of rims 😜
Had tubeless, went back to clinchers. I could never get the tyre off when the set up failed completely. Not that concerned with saving watts and prioritised ability to get myself home if punctured.
Yes i use tubeless for a few years now and it’s a no brainer. As for traveling i leave a bit of air (25/30 psi) and i never had problems with sealant comming out. Also with my latest setup (vision metron sl and the new schwalbe pro one) i find it easy to setup than some of my clinchers.
Ive been using tubeless for 2 years now, love it, once you get used to fitting the tyres to the rim it’s easy. Had a couple of punctures in that time, just gave the valve a quick blast with a CO2 cartridge, spun the wheel & sealed straight away. Brilliant 👍
@@paulmwanza8708 I’ve found the sealant that’s already in the tyre has been enough, just required the CO2 to give enough pressure to seal it. I use stans sealant, around 40 ml per tyre.
if you do puncture and then inflate with CO2 - remember when you are done with your ride to release all the CO2 from the tire and re-inflate with air. CO2 can interact with some of the sealants and then they glob up and don't work.
oh yes tubeless on my road, mnt and gravel bikes. Been ROAD tubeless since 2014 with no regrets and only an occasional puncture that won't seal. Still carry a tube, always. Also use 28mm tires on my road bike. We have a local bike "genius" who schools us in rolling resistance!! He talked me in to 28's and I talked him in to tubeless! The down side for him he has so many bikes that the sealant dries up before he can go rotate through all his bikes! He's started using latex tubes again because of that.
If you have a puncture that the sealant does not seal carry with you a Stans Dart plug in your pocket . The plugs can fix quite a big slash on the tyre and can be used one or two at a time. No need to cut off the excess as this will wear away in time. Enjoy the ride.
I bought a set of Hunt 36 Wide wheels for my road bike and fitted GP5000TLs to them. Fantastic! In my experience Conti tyres are a tight fit anyway and the TLs were a bit harder work, but no real issues. I've now swapped all my FLO clincher racing wheels (which are tubeless compatible) to GP5000TLs from the GP TT/latex tube set up I had before. Now just need a race to test them! 🤣
You can get valve caps with a valve core remover built in. Some tubeless valves have them as well. Peaty's Mk2 valve have a spoke key on one cap and a valve core tool on the other.
I attempted to seat a Bontrager tubeless tire onto Bontrager xxx4 rims and as I pushed with my thumbs to seat the last bit the sidewall cracked at the brake track. Thought I was going to be sick as I had just dropped 3600$ Cad on them. Thank goodness for Trek's carbon care warranty. They replaced the wheel. Now I just get them to set up my tubeless tires once a year.
one good tip after setting up or replacing tubeless rim tape is to put the sealent into the tyre before inflating it. That way the sealent will do it's job and fill any microscopic gaps between the rim and tape and outer rim and tyre bead. I tried seating the tyre after replacing the tape without sealent and air was escaping through the little drainage holes in the side of the rim. Put the sealent in with the bead of the tyre in the centre channel and it then inflated and stayed that way.
This is Ollie in his element. Nice to see. I'm doing a full distance relay this year. Just bought some nice DT Swiss ARC 1400 tubless ready wheels, now I have to choose the tyres. This video didn't really convince me yet, though. Do I want all this hassle for a 'couple of minutes' over the full distance? I'm not a pro rider by far. I can maybe hold 200 W over that time. Maybe. If I train hard.
I went tubeless last week, and hardest part was mounting the tire. Other than that, I didn't need air compressor to inflate, easy to add the sealant without making a mess. Did 90km without issue, and ride quality is awesome! Will see how bad the sealant can dry after 3 to 6 months and hopefully I will not need to remove it on side of the road! LOL
I did the Installation of tubeless tyres an my roadbike last year. It was a big mess, but in the end, it worked, even without compressor. A troubleshooting video on this matter would be nice!
The biggest benefit imo is tubeless if set up correctly is less likely to be completely broken. On the other side, if your tube popped, you need to change the pop in the middle of the road and so your result will be trash. Tubeless at most will lose some pressure. You can still race normally
Tried tubeless on the mountain bike. The valve is always stuck does not take air well, constantly leaks. The experience has been nothing but a frustrating mess. Until the technology improves dramatically-us recreational riders on the road don’t need this messy hassle. Maybe for a one day racer it’s a good way to get some watt savings, but for me... this has been a nightmare.
Do you only inflate with valve at 12 position? Otherwise the sealant will get into the valve and cause issues - hope this helps they've been great for me (hope I don't jinx myself)
Latex for sure has a lower rolling resistance they butyl tubes.. But you also have a higher chance of failure from pinch flats. damaging the tube during installation, and minor road debris. The risk outweigh the reward for me, but others might be more comfortable. I run tubeless in my MTB and have never had an issue.. Thinking I might go TL on road bike this year for training. Will keep a butyl tube in my bag for repairs.
Ollie make money every where! Now at GTN. What GCN say about that? Or they rent him out? By they way, can you staff at GTN improve Ollies running when he is at you? That is a real challenge I can tell :)).
Any maintenance recommendations? How do you remove sealant from frame after a puncture? Not seen that Topeak device before 👍 Used tubeless for 70.3. Got two drawing pins in rear and didn’t know until I was home!
Set up my first tubeless Panaracer gravelking plus tlc and was relatively mess free. Very impressed with the ride but bust a spoke after 150k’s. After much angst I managed to remove a spoke (15g unbutted - only a problem with the nipples as they are a specific gauge) from a similar wheel and use that as a repair. That was luck. Probably a real pain in t(e rectum to have to demount a tyre to replace spokes otherwise. Has, however, not put me off tubeless just persuaded me that more reliable wheels are a better option. ( The wheels in question were bog standard Cannondale supplied Jalco rims on Formula hubs.Nearly impossible to find like for like replacement spokes.). Nice vid, thanks.
I use Continental GP5000 TL x 28 mm in my road bike, and GP5000 x 26 mm with latex tubes on my tri bike. The reason why I use latex tubes on my tri bike is both because of travel, and because I find the sealant for tubeless doesn’t really seal above 70-80 psi. So, if your riding a 28 mm tire at 80 psi, tubeless works great. But for a 26 mm tire at 100 psi, you’re going to loose 20+ psi before the tire seals.
I have to assume something went wrong with the tyre seating because we did not get to see or hear the popping noise that normally goes with doing so? Good video non the less. Interesting to consider the importance of good tyres vs expensive wheels.
Why does no one ever speak about how difficult it is to get a tubeless tyres off? Especially of the side of the road. If the tyre has been on for a while the bead gets stuck tight to the rim with sealant.
Because it’s not designed to be taken off on the side of the road. Nor would you take your car tire off until you replace it. They are designed to stay tubeless. People who use tubeless tire set ups, use tire plugs to fix a tire that sealant can’t seal. It’s easy and it works. No tubes necessary. And roadside fixes are far less than with tubes setups. Nothing wrong with either choice. Just carry plugs if tubeless and tubes if clinchers.
@@CCliff0rd my car has a spare wheel in though. On all these videos people talk about taking a tube out for emergencies. I has never tried plugs on a road tyre, they reasonably successful on a bigger mountain bike tyre. Ive been told they don’t work, and they don’t look like they would. I race tubeless, but I now carry a can of pitstop (which I have used twice and its got me back home), the stand darts look like they might be worth a try. Never the less, I regret being an early adopter of tubeless tyres. Might be a few less punctures on race tyres but not winter tyres and well more faff. Maybe hookless tyres and better standardisation will be the answer.
Yeah it’s true that personal experiences will vary. Also true that road tubeless has room for improvement. I feel it is improving and getting more and more practical. My opinion and point is.... not to revert back to what you’re comfortable with and try to put tubes in a tubeless tire on the side of the road. It’s only going to be frustrating and a pita. And will end in blaming tubeless to be too much trouble. If you’re running tubeless. Bring a plug kit. If you’re running clinchers, bring tube/s. Cheers
Yeah.... Ollie decided to go tubeless because somebody told him that it lighter (first laughter) and more Aero (second laughter). And Ollie is an expert (third laughter)
Latex tubes for me. 6 months in and no flats. The price and fuss of sealant, fighting the tire to get it on/off and having a burst of air to seat the bead is not worth the
Unfortunately, you still need to carry an inner tube in case of a big hole. Especially at competitions that you absolutely want to finish when you have paid a lot of entry fee ;) BTW Hookless - a step backwards
What pressure would you run the tires at? How often do you need to replace sealant, what do you use to clean the rim should you want to go back to an inner tube? What is the difference between hookless and rims with hooks? Is one better for inner tubes or going tubeless?
I can't find much info on the difference between a race tyre with a latex inner tube vs a race tyre tubeless is there that much difference between them?
Really wish you guys touched on the options for repairs if you do get a flat. Yeah, you can put a tube in but good luck with that out on the road. Seems that tubless bacon strips are a much more feasible choice and if that fails after the sealant fails, it may be time to call Uber...
How p1ssed off does Ollie look at the end when Mark says “I think we’ve waffled on enough”!? 😳 Mark clearly looked bored, but it was very interesting info Ollie was giving, not waffle at all 😐
Question: I have been installing TL like this: Mount tyre, pour the liquid and just pump. Sometimes use a bit of soapy water. I never had to use a compressor. Am I neglecting something? If I carefully run the sealant in the tyre one revolution, it is enough to keep the air to mount the tyre onto the bead.
It depends. Some tires are better than others. I can seat continental gp5000's first time every time with no issue with a track pump. If you know you have a good tire its definitely not an issue just dumping the sealant in and then Inflating. And then I've had some tires that are just a pain in the ass to seal even with a compressor. Those you have to make sure they're seated first before you add sealant or youre just going to blow sealant everywhere when you try to inflate.
Disappointed at the lack of mention for the humble 2l drinks bottle and a couple of tubeless valves to seat the tyre instead of a hugely overpriced canister. Can also be done with a co2 cartridge although that's a little bit wasteful.
@@paulmwanza8708 grab a 2L drinks bottle, drill a hole in the lid and the bottom, fit a tubeless valve in each hole, take the core out of one of the valves. The you can put a hose between that and your wheel, pinch the hose, pump the bottle up and release the hose to blast air into the tyre and seat it. There are plenty of tutorials online.
I am having a bike set up with tubeless now but i am now a bit concerned after watching this video - especially since i will be traveling to a race with this set up?
how difficult is it to install a tube into a tubeless road tire? I would imagine significantly harder and might be almost impossible as the tube would take up more space to prevent the bead from going into the channel of the rim.
I understand using tubeless allowing lower pressure in mountain biking for better traction but why on a road bike (better ride)? Also, how does lower pressure save wattage? Wouldn't a higher pressure have lower rolling resistance and therefore lower wattage? Not being critical, I want to understand (I'm new to road biking).
Max or high pressure only works on a smooth surface like a veledrome. A road that looks smooth or ok isn't smooth. Max or very high pressure on the road the tyre will do lot's micro bounces along the surface loosing wattage aswell as feeling uncomfortable over time. A tyre with lower pressure e.g 25mm front tyre at 71 psi instead of 105 psi will feel more comfortable absorbing the vibration, give you slightly better grip and will roll faster too.
Great video. I’m also looking into this. Very usefull. I thought this was way harder. Ill give it a try :). How much was the presaure in optimal condition - not race? Not 30 psi ...
Small question: what happens to a tubeless setup when not used fo many months? During winter I always use a direct drive trainer so simply remove my wheels until spring: should I keep them always inflated?
Sealant reacts with air and will go hard if not moving over time, also why you need to top up every so often, so either spin the wheels once or twice a week, or remove the tyres and sealant, and wait till spring where you can set it up again
Next, disc brakes for triathlon, what's the point? Ollie even recommends "don't do this (ie change or fix something on your bike) the night before your big race". So after assembling your bike in a hotel room the night before the big race, you have to mess around fixing disc brake rub. Just another thing to worry about. So what's the point in triathlon disc brake bikes, especially when the goal is to use the brakes only twice in the race - at the turn around and at the end of the bike leg. Also, they are slower - ie less aero. Just ask Adam Hanson. His bike won't have disc brakes as he is building the fastest triathlon tt bike in the world without the constraints of UCI rules, industry trends and sponsor obligations.
I think this answer is dependent on where you ride (heat, humidity, ect), your tire/rim compatibility, and if you get any punctures that you might not know about... I've seen people say they add 1oz every 1-3 months.. I've seen a few say they change their fluid annually. I buy new MTB tires every two years and have never top off sealant before :) I admit, my only experience is with MTB tubeless... More sealant in my tires, more tread depth, lower air pressure.. but woods riding. Its not apples to apples comparison. In my triathlon racing - my goal is to not have a mechanical and butyl tubes haven't failed me yet.
@@TriDaddy Cheers Matt - I've recently transitioned from clinchers to tubeless (for triathlons) hence my Q. I wasn't sure whether you should regularly remove the tyres and clean out the rim/new tape/replace sealant or just top up. Like you, clinchers have worked great for me in the past but wanted to take advantage of the additional watt savings
@@paulmwanza8708 For off-road I think adding but not removing is common - its easier. If you are concerned with a very minimal amount of weight, you can remove the tire, wash the sealant out and pick off any orange peel on the inner casing of the tire. Reinstall and add new sealant.
Do you use a tubeless setup on your bike? Let us know!
yes and would never go back.
No, I don´t wanne get dropped
yes on both off road and roadie bikes...best thing ive even done...but i still carry a tube on race days just in case...thanks for a another gr8 video keep up the good work
Yes my brother fixed tubeless tires on my MTB and I love it! You inspired me to learn myself how to do this for my race bike. So thanks for the video! And thanks for the update excuse to buy a new set of rims 😜
You know it. Now I don't worry about flats.
Why did you edit music over the compressor and the pings??? Single most satisfying part of the tubeless experience
Ollie Makes Every video better give that man a raise!!!
Aww, I got the initial impression from the title and thumbnail that Ollie was going to do a triathlon.😜
🤔
Had tubeless, went back to clinchers. I could never get the tyre off when the set up failed completely. Not that concerned with saving watts and prioritised ability to get myself home if punctured.
Not to mention, latex tubes are actually faster.
Yes i use tubeless for a few years now and it’s a no brainer. As for traveling i leave a bit of air (25/30 psi) and i never had problems with sealant comming out.
Also with my latest setup (vision metron sl and the new schwalbe pro one) i find it easy to setup than some of my clinchers.
Fantastic mash up with GCN. Love to see more of this.
Ive been using tubeless for 2 years now, love it, once you get used to fitting the tyres to the rim it’s easy. Had a couple of punctures in that time, just gave the valve a quick blast with a CO2 cartridge, spun the wheel & sealed straight away. Brilliant 👍
So if you do get a puncture, you just need the CO2 cartridge? I carry a can of Vittoria Pitstop but will leave it behind if I don't need it
@@paulmwanza8708 I’ve found the sealant that’s already in the tyre has been enough, just required the CO2 to give enough pressure to seal it. I use stans sealant, around 40 ml per tyre.
@@Lenny1656 Thanks Lee
if you do puncture and then inflate with CO2 - remember when you are done with your ride to release all the CO2 from the tire and re-inflate with air. CO2 can interact with some of the sealants and then they glob up and don't work.
@@mnbv5555cxz Didn’t realise this, thanks for the tip. 👍
oh yes tubeless on my road, mnt and gravel bikes. Been ROAD tubeless since 2014 with no regrets and only an occasional puncture that won't seal. Still carry a tube, always. Also use 28mm tires on my road bike. We have a local bike "genius" who schools us in rolling resistance!! He talked me in to 28's and I talked him in to tubeless! The down side for him he has so many bikes that the sealant dries up before he can go rotate through all his bikes! He's started using latex tubes again because of that.
If you have a puncture that the sealant does not seal carry with you a Stans Dart plug in your pocket . The plugs can fix quite a big slash on the tyre and can be used one or two at a time. No need to cut off the excess as this will wear away in time. Enjoy the ride.
Might be old school but I still talc my tubes on all my bikes.
I bought a set of Hunt 36 Wide wheels for my road bike and fitted GP5000TLs to them. Fantastic! In my experience Conti tyres are a tight fit anyway and the TLs were a bit harder work, but no real issues. I've now swapped all my FLO clincher racing wheels (which are tubeless compatible) to GP5000TLs from the GP TT/latex tube set up I had before. Now just need a race to test them! 🤣
You can get valve caps with a valve core remover built in. Some tubeless valves have them as well. Peaty's Mk2 valve have a spoke key on one cap and a valve core tool on the other.
Ollie is a pure pro at his job
I attempted to seat a Bontrager tubeless tire onto Bontrager xxx4 rims and as I pushed with my thumbs to seat the last bit the sidewall cracked at the brake track. Thought I was going to be sick as I had just dropped 3600$ Cad on them. Thank goodness for Trek's carbon care warranty. They replaced the wheel. Now I just get them to set up my tubeless tires once a year.
All i needed to know: 7:15--8:05 about travel, mess and stress. Don't need it.
one good tip after setting up or replacing tubeless rim tape is to put the sealent into the tyre before inflating it. That way the sealent will do it's job and fill any microscopic gaps between the rim and tape and outer rim and tyre bead. I tried seating the tyre after replacing the tape without sealent and air was escaping through the little drainage holes in the side of the rim. Put the sealent in with the bead of the tyre in the centre channel and it then inflated and stayed that way.
Yes Tubeless.. since 2017 i have a Giant bike that has it..
This is Ollie in his element. Nice to see. I'm doing a full distance relay this year. Just bought some nice DT Swiss ARC 1400 tubless ready wheels, now I have to choose the tyres. This video didn't really convince me yet, though. Do I want all this hassle for a 'couple of minutes' over the full distance? I'm not a pro rider by far. I can maybe hold 200 W over that time. Maybe. If I train hard.
I went tubeless last week, and hardest part was mounting the tire.
Other than that, I didn't need air compressor to inflate, easy to add the sealant without making a mess.
Did 90km without issue, and ride quality is awesome!
Will see how bad the sealant can dry after 3 to 6 months and hopefully I will not need to remove it on side of the road! LOL
I did the Installation of tubeless tyres an my roadbike last year. It was a big mess, but in the end, it worked, even without compressor. A troubleshooting video on this matter would be nice!
Switched to tubless after getting a puncture during my first ironmam 2.5years ago. Havent had a flat since!
I miss ollie so much I actually came over form Gcn to watch his episode
I can see people searching for tubeless tyre video and this video will come up on the top.
The biggest benefit imo is tubeless if set up correctly is less likely to be completely broken. On the other side, if your tube popped, you need to change the pop in the middle of the road and so your result will be trash. Tubeless at most will lose some pressure. You can still race normally
GCN tech should do a comparison of sealants. maybe later when more people use tubeless ?
Tubeless tires are a no brainer. I've also been riding tubeless for many years
After thirty years I’ve gone tubeless on my new Giant Propel. I trust they live up to the hype 😎
Thanks Ollie and GTN!
First was Dan Lloyd, now Ollie. What's happening with with GTN staff? :P
Tried tubeless on the mountain bike. The valve is always stuck does not take air well, constantly leaks. The experience has been nothing but a frustrating mess. Until the technology improves dramatically-us recreational riders on the road don’t need this messy hassle. Maybe for a one day racer it’s a good way to get some watt savings, but for me... this has been a nightmare.
Do you only inflate with valve at 12 position? Otherwise the sealant will get into the valve and cause issues - hope this helps they've been great for me (hope I don't jinx myself)
I've never used tubeless. But seems like latex inner tubes are a better deal, right? I mean, comparing Watts Saving vs Convenience.
Latex for sure has a lower rolling resistance they butyl tubes.. But you also have a higher chance of failure from pinch flats. damaging the tube during installation, and minor road debris. The risk outweigh the reward for me, but others might be more comfortable. I run tubeless in my MTB and have never had an issue.. Thinking I might go TL on road bike this year for training. Will keep a butyl tube in my bag for repairs.
Racing Tri 30 years. Can recall 4 flats and only 1 of those affecting a race outcome. MTB, sure. Tri? Meh.
Latex race set up with a quality tire with high TPI is the way to go. Training days good ol heavy gatorskins.
The exact reason I will pass on tubeless until the industry figures it out!
Ollie make money every where! Now at GTN. What GCN say about that? Or they rent him out? By they way, can you staff at GTN improve Ollies running when he is at you? That is a real challenge I can tell :)).
Perfectly trimmed video as I'm just looking Into upgrading my wheels 👍
Any maintenance recommendations? How do you remove sealant from frame after a puncture? Not seen that Topeak device before 👍 Used tubeless for 70.3. Got two drawing pins in rear and didn’t know until I was home!
How often to replace the sealant? Do you need to clean out the old sealant every time or can you just add more?
Set up my first tubeless Panaracer gravelking plus tlc and was relatively mess free. Very impressed with the ride but bust a spoke after 150k’s. After much angst I managed to remove a spoke (15g unbutted - only a problem with the nipples as they are a specific gauge) from a similar wheel and use that as a repair. That was luck. Probably a real pain in t(e rectum to have to demount a tyre to replace spokes otherwise. Has, however, not put me off tubeless just persuaded me that more reliable wheels are a better option. ( The wheels in question were bog standard Cannondale supplied Jalco rims on Formula hubs.Nearly impossible to find like for like replacement spokes.). Nice vid, thanks.
I use Continental GP5000 TL x 28 mm in my road bike, and GP5000 x 26 mm with latex tubes on my tri bike. The reason why I use latex tubes on my tri bike is both because of travel, and because I find the sealant for tubeless doesn’t really seal above 70-80 psi. So, if your riding a 28 mm tire at 80 psi, tubeless works great. But for a 26 mm tire at 100 psi, you’re going to loose 20+ psi before the tire seals.
If you're riding a 26mm tyre at 100psi it had better be on glass smooth tarmac or it'll be slowing you down.
But why 26mm? Lack of clearance? I just installed 30mm on my tri bike which supposedly has 27mm clearance.
I have to assume something went wrong with the tyre seating because we did not get to see or hear the popping noise that normally goes with doing so? Good video non the less. Interesting to consider the importance of good tyres vs expensive wheels.
Haha it may have taken a couple of attempts 😉
Mine also did not popp. Probably depends on the tire.
I'll stick to tubular tyres just find them better for me have tried once the sealant came flying everway so won't use them
When in doubt... just ask Oli :p
12:20 I hold it like that too and push into my core so that its easier to roll over the last piece of tyre
Why does no one ever speak about how difficult it is to get a tubeless tyres off? Especially of the side of the road. If the tyre has been on for a while the bead gets stuck tight to the rim with sealant.
That’s where I am at the moment ☹️
Because it’s not designed to be taken off on the side of the road. Nor would you take your car tire off until you replace it. They are designed to stay tubeless. People who use tubeless tire set ups, use tire plugs to fix a tire that sealant can’t seal. It’s easy and it works. No tubes necessary. And roadside fixes are far less than with tubes setups. Nothing wrong with either choice. Just carry plugs if tubeless and tubes if clinchers.
@@CCliff0rd my car has a spare wheel in though. On all these videos people talk about taking a tube out for emergencies. I has never tried plugs on a road tyre, they reasonably successful on a bigger mountain bike tyre. Ive been told they don’t work, and they don’t look like they would. I race tubeless, but I now carry a can of pitstop (which I have used twice and its got me back home), the stand darts look like they might be worth a try.
Never the less, I regret being an early adopter of tubeless tyres. Might be a few less punctures on race tyres but not winter tyres and well more faff. Maybe hookless tyres and better standardisation will be the answer.
Yeah it’s true that personal experiences will vary. Also true that road tubeless has room for improvement. I feel it is improving and getting more and more practical. My opinion and point is.... not to revert back to what you’re comfortable with and try to put tubes in a tubeless tire on the side of the road. It’s only going to be frustrating and a pita. And will end in blaming tubeless to be too much trouble. If you’re running tubeless. Bring a plug kit. If you’re running clinchers, bring tube/s. Cheers
Yeah.... Ollie decided to go tubeless because somebody told him that it lighter (first laughter) and more Aero (second laughter). And Ollie is an expert (third laughter)
so relieved that you can still use tubes if all else fail 😌😌😌
Didn't even talk about the exploding tire, and sealant everywhere! LoL
Latex tubes for me. 6 months in and no flats. The price and fuss of sealant, fighting the tire to get it on/off and having a burst of air to seat the bead is not worth the
Unfortunately, you still need to carry an inner tube in case of a big hole. Especially at competitions that you absolutely want to finish when you have paid a lot of entry fee ;)
BTW Hookless - a step backwards
All those tools on the wall just looks intimidating!
What pressure would you run the tires at? How often do you need to replace sealant, what do you use to clean the rim should you want to go back to an inner tube? What is the difference between hookless and rims with hooks? Is one better for inner tubes or going tubeless?
This should be interesting...... thanks guys!!! But think I’ve heard Ollie banging on about this before!!!
I can't find much info on the difference between a race tyre with a latex inner tube vs a race tyre tubeless is there that much difference between them?
Really wish you guys touched on the options for repairs if you do get a flat. Yeah, you can put a tube in but good luck with that out on the road. Seems that tubless bacon strips are a much more feasible choice and if that fails after the sealant fails, it may be time to call Uber...
Here in my country you can get a cycling membership at the automotive club and they'll come help you.
How often do you have to top up or replace the sealant, does it dry out and do you have to clean out the old stuff? Thanks.
@Stefan Hofmeister cheers Stefano thanks for the advice👍
How p1ssed off does Ollie look at the end when Mark says “I think we’ve waffled on enough”!? 😳 Mark clearly looked bored, but it was very interesting info Ollie was giving, not waffle at all 😐
In case you will lose pressure on race day, can you inflate via co2 and how much pressure is on the tire?
How often do you need to replace the sealant and how do you get the old sealant out to prevent unnecessary weight?
Question: I have been installing TL like this: Mount tyre, pour the liquid and just pump. Sometimes use a bit of soapy water. I never had to use a compressor. Am I neglecting something? If I carefully run the sealant in the tyre one revolution, it is enough to keep the air to mount the tyre onto the bead.
In short, I have been neglecting the seating step.
It depends. Some tires are better than others. I can seat continental gp5000's first time every time with no issue with a track pump. If you know you have a good tire its definitely not an issue just dumping the sealant in and then Inflating. And then I've had some tires that are just a pain in the ass to seal even with a compressor. Those you have to make sure they're seated first before you add sealant or youre just going to blow sealant everywhere when you try to inflate.
Tubeless yes, hookless never. A hooked rim will hold the tyre in place without air (so no sealant leaking issues).
i would just pump out those sealant when traveling
Disappointed at the lack of mention for the humble 2l drinks bottle and a couple of tubeless valves to seat the tyre instead of a hugely overpriced canister. Can also be done with a co2 cartridge although that's a little bit wasteful.
What do you mean, Lewis? Cheers
@@paulmwanza8708 grab a 2L drinks bottle, drill a hole in the lid and the bottom, fit a tubeless valve in each hole, take the core out of one of the valves. The you can put a hose between that and your wheel, pinch the hose, pump the bottle up and release the hose to blast air into the tyre and seat it. There are plenty of tutorials online.
Cheers, will check it out!
I am having a bike set up with tubeless now but i am now a bit concerned after watching this video - especially since i will be traveling to a race with this set up?
Just leave a few psi in the System(20-40). Works well
how difficult is it to install a tube into a tubeless road tire? I would imagine significantly harder and might be almost impossible as the tube would take up more space to prevent the bead from going into the channel of the rim.
It's not harder. The tube sits in the rounded section of the tyre whilst you're getting the bead in place. It really is a non-issue.
I understand using tubeless allowing lower pressure in mountain biking for better traction but why on a road bike (better ride)? Also, how does lower pressure save wattage? Wouldn't a higher pressure have lower rolling resistance and therefore lower wattage? Not being critical, I want to understand (I'm new to road biking).
Max or high pressure only works on a smooth surface like a veledrome. A road that looks smooth or ok isn't smooth. Max or very high pressure on the road the tyre will do lot's micro bounces along the surface loosing wattage aswell as feeling uncomfortable over time. A tyre with lower pressure e.g 25mm front tyre at 71 psi instead of 105 psi will feel more comfortable absorbing the vibration, give you slightly better grip and will roll faster too.
@@nemeanf27 Thank you for taking the time to reply.
Why did you skip installing the valve, and also filling by removing the valve core?
Really helpful video, but -- sheesh -- this looks beyond me. I don't think I'll be switching any time soon.
Great video. I’m also looking into this. Very usefull. I thought this was way harder. Ill give it a try :). How much was the presaure in optimal condition - not race? Not 30 psi ...
I race with 80 psi at 77 kgs
@@alexharrison7335 Perfekt. Thanks.
Check out Silca cc. They have a great calculator
can i use a co2 cartege for the first inflation
Small question: what happens to a tubeless setup when not used fo many months? During winter I always use a direct drive trainer so simply remove my wheels until spring: should I keep them always inflated?
Sealant reacts with air and will go hard if not moving over time, also why you need to top up every so often, so either spin the wheels once or twice a week, or remove the tyres and sealant, and wait till spring where you can set it up again
@@DeStraatz Great Idea! Thanks man
Next, disc brakes for triathlon, what's the point? Ollie even recommends "don't do this (ie change or fix something on your bike) the night before your big race". So after assembling your bike in a hotel room the night before the big race, you have to mess around fixing disc brake rub. Just another thing to worry about. So what's the point in triathlon disc brake bikes, especially when the goal is to use the brakes only twice in the race - at the turn around and at the end of the bike leg. Also, they are slower - ie less aero. Just ask Adam Hanson. His bike won't have disc brakes as he is building the fastest triathlon tt bike in the world without the constraints of UCI rules, industry trends and sponsor obligations.
All these videos are marketing propaganda. They aren't to be taken seriously.
At 14:39...it becomes GP5000???
How often should you top up the sealant? thanks
I think this answer is dependent on where you ride (heat, humidity, ect), your tire/rim compatibility, and if you get any punctures that you might not know about... I've seen people say they add 1oz every 1-3 months.. I've seen a few say they change their fluid annually. I buy new MTB tires every two years and have never top off sealant before :) I admit, my only experience is with MTB tubeless... More sealant in my tires, more tread depth, lower air pressure.. but woods riding. Its not apples to apples comparison. In my triathlon racing - my goal is to not have a mechanical and butyl tubes haven't failed me yet.
@@TriDaddy Cheers Matt - I've recently transitioned from clinchers to tubeless (for triathlons) hence my Q. I wasn't sure whether you should regularly remove the tyres and clean out the rim/new tape/replace sealant or just top up. Like you, clinchers have worked great for me in the past but wanted to take advantage of the additional watt savings
@@paulmwanza8708 For off-road I think adding but not removing is common - its easier. If you are concerned with a very minimal amount of weight, you can remove the tire, wash the sealant out and pick off any orange peel on the inner casing of the tire. Reinstall and add new sealant.
No need to glue the tire to the rim?
No
Yo! ✌🏻
Which rim and tyre duo is the most compatible with each other?
If you have trouble the go to recommended tire is the Schwalbe Pro One.
Mavic and continental do not mix
At all!!
Rock'n the Enve's. W00t w00t.. I put tubeless on my 7.8 SES Enve wheels too.
How often should you replenish the sealent? Say over a year.
Save 2 minutes on an Ironman!!? Hardly worth the trouble.
Next, Ollie gets dropped on the transition area...