Glad you like it. ICYMI here it is working with the automatic threading stop that started this whole adventure. th-cam.com/video/76KytHFz71Q/w-d-xo.html
Glad you like it. Most of my ideas make you smack your head and go "of course". I do have them for sale if you prefer. facebook.com/marketplace/item/988397052928084/
A simple tool holder that has a spring on the side to retract, the lever is connected to an eccentric. The bottom lever is manipulated by an adjustable bed stop
Tudo bem seu projeto e muito bom mas deixou uma coisa a desejar não mostrou com fez o projeto ( estamos no Brasil) faz o vídeo fazendo o projeto obrigado
Does it also disengage the half-nut or are you doing that off camera? For a long time I was paranoid about cutting threads on my lathe; so much so that I made a hand-crank that I would stick into the tail end of my spindle bore and cut threads by manually turning that crank-handle. Then I learned how to cut thread from left to right or, in reverse and the pucker factor just went away.
Yea, that's the TH-cam video guy I learned how to thread on my lathe both left to right and right to left without the pucker factor stress levels being off the charts.@@mikeskupniewitz8057
Nice. Simple. Less chance of something going wrong. I’ve been thinking of making something like this but have so much else to do, I haven’t. This makes me feel I have to. How is the height of the holder determined? I don’t see anything for that.
Yes, I've seen others that were much more complicated. My designs are always Stupidly Simple. I'm not quite clear on your question. In this tool, the slot for the threading tool is (more or less) at the same height as the tang the mounts in the AXA tool holder. More recently, I have been modifying standard AXA (250-100) tool holders.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 ok, what I meant is that tool holders, as you know, have a screw and two nuts to adjust the height of the tool holder in the post. I don’t see that here.
This was an early model. The current design is made from a standard Aloris type toolholder.. facebook.com/groups/359355585198510/permalink/781253663008698
To get a sense of scale from the video, is the square threading insert holder 16mm square, appears off the shelf (SER1616, SER1212 would be the other guess if 12mm square)? I assume the only modification was maybe cutting it's length shorter. The eccentric offset appears to be ~.2inches, is that about right? Anything special about the shape of the cam, or is it just circular? Getting the spring force so it has enough to drive the eccentric cam once it's trigger to eject the cutting tool quick. I was just threading on my lathe this evening, and this would be handy.
Yes, SER1616 threading tool, shank shortened and modified to fit within the confines of a std. AXA holder (which is the current design). Cam is circular and .06" eccentric, providing 1/8" retraction.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 The only tool holders like the one shown in your video, that I've seen, hold onto cutoff blades. These fit in the AXA holders or turret holder. The AXA holders to me all have the V way machined for the quick change. If there was black oxide on the one in your video, you machined it all away. But I'm thinking you made that part from some solid stock. Interesting that just a simple eccentric with spring force will eject with no issues. I would have thought an "egg" shaped cam sort would be needed. I had to modify my AXA holder a few months ago for a SER2020 threading holder. I needed it for my small lathe (10x24), where I purchased it for my larger lathe (18x40). They are inexpensive from eBay China sellers. I'll have to procure one. I think I could modify one of the AXA holders, and remove the one set screw to the rear to put the eccentric shaft through. Thanks for showing this design!
@f.hababorbitz The early models of this design (including this video) were machined from solid. I've since adapted to using the standard 250-101 and 250-201 toolholders. facebook.com/marketplace/item/318991847639690/
Look's like it eats a little more each pass, do you estimate a projection from the progressive advancment of cuts to final thread distance/length vs. number of required passes before you start? Looks like you picked up about a thread length of distance/thread length through the process.
I am advancing the compound, which is set at the traditional 29.5°. The single depth of 8 tpi is .080 in, so the tool advances approx. .046 in. along the lathe axis. This is less than half a thread, but can be important if you're brave enough to work that close to a shoulder.
be nice if it also disengaged the half nut , it would essentially be a mechanical cnc in the one direction. Id not be shocked if they used similar mechanical devices during ww2 production.
That was a lot of passes, but I’m really not seeing the thread develop. It looks like each pass is removing a lot of metal, but the threads just aren’t there.
Here is my current ad on FB. Message me from there and I'll give you payment info. I currently have one BXA in stock. facebook.com/marketplace/item/988397052928084/
Not that I've seen so far, there is barely enough clearance to allow it to slide and there's 2.5 in. of tool shank engaged. Haven't tried anything harder than 4140HT.
Thank you. I am currently offering these for sale, so I'm not inclined to reveal the details yet. Besides, I've lost momentum on the drawings and, given the choice, I'd rather cut metal.
@@jimbennett1519 I have a couple currently posted on facebook.com/groups/359355585198510/permalink/794803874987010 or you can just message me directly.
It's not threading all the way to the shoulder, so as far as the amount of motions necessary to do the job, it is really not any better than stopping the feed by hand. The motor is not reversing, so the operator is still winding the carriage back by hand and advancing the compound. Cast iron and brass/bronze throw off a lot of grit, which could find its way into the mechanism.
I wouldn't say so. If you're using the compound to come in on the thread at 60 degrees this gadget keeps you from having to touch your cross-slide at all. You just advance the compound each pass.
@@plalonde2 NORMAL THREADING- all set for first pass 1. engage feed 2 disengage feed after pass 3. retract cross slide 4. wind back z axis 5. reset cross slide 6. advance compound 7. engage feed THREADING WITH RETRACTING TOOL- all set for first pass 1. engage feed 2. disengage feed after pass 3. wind back z axis 4. reset lever on auto tool 5. advance compound 6.engage feed So you save one step, but setting up the auto stop may take as much time as the threading process, as you need to run it up to the stop point a number of times and adjust it until you get it exactly right.
It saves a precision-required step, I think is the point. The cross-slide adjust needs to be pretty accurate to get back into the thread perfectly. I'd have to play with the tool to know if it's worth the difference in rigidity in the setup.@@oldschool1993
@@SquareRootOfNegativeOne All of my creations are so Stupidly Simple that it seems obvious once you see it. I'm always waiting for someone to tell me it was in Popular Mechanics 1958.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 Trochę wprawy i ręczną obsługą odsunięcia noża i jednocześnie powrotu maszyny dojedziesz nawet na 0,5mm do ścianki oczywiście zależy od szerokości noża, jeśli jest tylko na szerokość skoku gwintu można zrobić idealnie. 😄
Looks like you worked hard on designing making that. Very cool idea!
Ingenious solution to cut threads at high speed. Very well done Sir! 👏👏👏👏👍
Now that is thinking outside the box, GREAT IDEA !!!
I am a 45yr machinist, Thank You for sharing this. Gotta make one now.
Glad you like it. ICYMI here it is working with the automatic threading stop that started this whole adventure. th-cam.com/video/76KytHFz71Q/w-d-xo.html
seems so intuitive and needed. Why is this the first time I've seen an auto-retracting threading too? I'm gonna have to make one.
Glad you like it. Most of my ideas make you smack your head and go "of course". I do have them for sale if you prefer. facebook.com/marketplace/item/988397052928084/
@@phineasj.whoopee3301
I’d love to buy one, but I don’t have a Facebook account.
Genius, pure genius.
Mr. Whoopee, you always amaze me. Jeff Anderson
Why thank you Jeff. Someday I'll make it down to Chico.
I like that you can set it to retract in the same place with each pass ... would be good on a manual lathe and have no run out groove.
I would sure love to see the plans for that !
A simple tool holder that has a spring on the side to retract, the lever is connected to an eccentric. The bottom lever is manipulated by an adjustable bed stop
Nice tool! The chip hanging in the spring getting stuck between the pin and the stop might ruin the consistency a little bit.
That is badass! - Great idea, and nice work.
Brilliant! Worth building.
Thank you. Do you plan to make one?
Buonasera, sa lei mi ha stupito è proprio una bella testa!
Bravo 10 e lode.
Grazie
Tudo bem seu projeto e muito bom mas deixou uma coisa a desejar não mostrou com fez o projeto ( estamos no Brasil) faz o vídeo fazendo o projeto obrigado
Does it also disengage the half-nut or are you doing that off camera?
For a long time I was paranoid about cutting threads on my lathe; so much so that I made a hand-crank that I would stick into the tail end of my spindle bore and cut threads by manually turning that crank-handle.
Then I learned how to cut thread from left to right or, in reverse and the pucker factor just went away.
Here's the complete system th-cam.com/video/76KytHFz71Q/w-d-xo.html
I think this would be useful with the left to Right threading with upside down left hand tool… that Joe pi video I leaned it from..
th-cam.com/video/Z-dqOi_z5bk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kUZcO2olBa6oqfX7
Yea, that's the TH-cam video guy I learned how to thread on my lathe both left to right and right to left without the pucker factor stress levels being off the charts.@@mikeskupniewitz8057
I'm learning a lot.thank you I cheer for you.❤❤❤
😮😮woh what a amazing idea
Good job
When are the prints coming out. I would like to have one
Similar to "The Shed Dweller" design. Have you seen it??
Yes. I saw his and thought "I can make that, only Stupidly Simple".
Nice. Simple. Less chance of something going wrong. I’ve been thinking of making something like this but have so much else to do, I haven’t. This makes me feel I have to. How is the height of the holder determined? I don’t see anything for that.
Yes, I've seen others that were much more complicated. My designs are always Stupidly Simple. I'm not quite clear on your question. In this tool, the slot for the threading tool is (more or less) at the same height as the tang the mounts in the AXA tool holder. More recently, I have been modifying standard AXA (250-100) tool holders.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 ok, what I meant is that tool holders, as you know, have a screw and two nuts to adjust the height of the tool holder in the post. I don’t see that here.
Think of it as a tool holder in a tool holder. The knurled adjusting nut and jam nut are still there on the holder at the post.@@melgross
@@KrisMinnear ok, now I see it. I wasn’t looking at the tool holder holding your holder. Sorry about that.
I like this, i will make one a little different it will have its own dove tails & will free up a tool holder for something else & less over hang.
This was an early model. The current design is made from a standard Aloris type toolholder.. facebook.com/groups/359355585198510/permalink/781253663008698
Good job.. were you inspired by the design that Paul Hopewell, at The Shed Dweller channel came up with.
I didn't see his until after I built this one. Mine might have been much more complicated if I had.
I can see one of those in my future! (CATHEAD)
Don't forget a half-nut release. th-cam.com/video/76KytHFz71Q/w-d-xo.html
*Damn! I LOVE YOUR STUFF!!*
Wakodahatchee Chris
Great adea
Compound feeding
To get a sense of scale from the video, is the square threading insert holder 16mm square, appears off the shelf (SER1616, SER1212 would be the other guess if 12mm square)? I assume the only modification was maybe cutting it's length shorter. The eccentric offset appears to be ~.2inches, is that about right? Anything special about the shape of the cam, or is it just circular? Getting the spring force so it has enough to drive the eccentric cam once it's trigger to eject the cutting tool quick.
I was just threading on my lathe this evening, and this would be handy.
Yes, SER1616 threading tool, shank shortened and modified to fit within the confines of a std. AXA holder (which is the current design). Cam is circular and .06" eccentric, providing 1/8" retraction.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 The only tool holders like the one shown in your video, that I've seen, hold onto cutoff blades. These fit in the AXA holders or turret holder. The AXA holders to me all have the V way machined for the quick change. If there was black oxide on the one in your video, you machined it all away. But I'm thinking you made that part from some solid stock.
Interesting that just a simple eccentric with spring force will eject with no issues. I would have thought an "egg" shaped cam sort would be needed.
I had to modify my AXA holder a few months ago for a SER2020 threading holder. I needed it for my small lathe (10x24), where I purchased it for my larger lathe (18x40). They are inexpensive from eBay China sellers. I'll have to procure one. I think I could modify one of the AXA holders, and remove the one set screw to the rear to put the eccentric shaft through.
Thanks for showing this design!
@f.hababorbitz The early models of this design (including this video) were machined from solid. I've since adapted to using the standard 250-101 and 250-201 toolholders.
facebook.com/marketplace/item/318991847639690/
Look's like it eats a little more each pass, do you estimate a projection from the progressive advancment of cuts to final thread distance/length vs. number of required passes before you start? Looks like you picked up about a thread length of distance/thread length through the process.
I am advancing the compound, which is set at the traditional 29.5°. The single depth of 8 tpi is .080 in, so the tool advances approx. .046 in. along the lathe axis. This is less than half a thread, but can be important if you're brave enough to work that close to a shoulder.
I could tell it was picking up ground with each bite of the load to eject. Brilliantly engineered piece. @@phineasj.whoopee3301
Very cool indeed
be nice if it also disengaged the half nut , it would essentially be a mechanical cnc in the one direction. Id not be shocked if they used similar mechanical devices during ww2 production.
th-cam.com/video/76KytHFz71Q/w-d-xo.html
Fucking smart as hell mate
My favorite comment. Thank you!
Parabéns por este dispositivo. Abrigado por esta ideia ok.
Dobra robota :)
That was a lot of passes, but I’m really not seeing the thread develop. It looks like each pass is removing a lot of metal, but the threads just aren’t there.
Try this one
th-cam.com/video/QBnc20RpjRo/w-d-xo.html
@@phineasj.whoopee3301
Definitely a difference. Thank you.
Smart idea 👍👍
Rgds
am i doing something wrong? every time i reply .i go back and it is gone . i have a Aloris tool post BXA
Here is my current ad on FB. Message me from there and I'll give you payment info. I currently have one BXA in stock. facebook.com/marketplace/item/988397052928084/
Genius
Excelente
Великая идея🎉
How to make this tool..tel me please....
any chatter on harder material ?? looks pretty smart thought might make one when my shop cools down this fall
Not that I've seen so far, there is barely enough clearance to allow it to slide and there's 2.5 in. of tool shank engaged. Haven't tried anything harder than 4140HT.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 doubt any of us will be doing anything harder than 4140 HT
@@chananielwizman2401 I find C1018 more of a problem to thread than 4140ht. Despite it not being as hard.
That a genius idea, you have plans?
Thank you. I am currently offering these for sale, so I'm not inclined to reveal the details yet. Besides, I've lost momentum on the drawings and, given the choice, I'd rather cut metal.
Génial 😍😍😍
Muy pere muy bueno
Gostei do sistema
un peu compliquer celui que j'ai vu est trés simple et efficace sur la vidéo
Вауууу!Вот это супер просто!👍👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥
Прекрасно я зделаю себе спасибо
Drawings for sale?
I'm still working on them. I'm selling completed units, so it may be a while before I make the drawings available.
Is there any info on how to purchase this?
@@jimbennett1519 I have just started another batch. They will be posted to facebook.com/groups/359355585198510 when available.
@@jimbennett1519 I have a couple currently posted on facebook.com/groups/359355585198510/permalink/794803874987010 or you can just message me directly.
genius
Thank you.
It's not threading all the way to the shoulder, so as far as the amount of motions necessary to do the job, it is really not any better than stopping the feed by hand. The motor is not reversing, so the operator is still winding the carriage back by hand and advancing the compound. Cast iron and brass/bronze throw off a lot of grit, which could find its way into the mechanism.
I wouldn't say so. If you're using the compound to come in on the thread at 60 degrees this gadget keeps you from having to touch your cross-slide at all. You just advance the compound each pass.
@@plalonde2 NORMAL THREADING- all set for first pass
1. engage feed
2 disengage feed after pass
3. retract cross slide
4. wind back z axis
5. reset cross slide
6. advance compound
7. engage feed
THREADING WITH RETRACTING TOOL- all set for first pass
1. engage feed
2. disengage feed after pass
3. wind back z axis
4. reset lever on auto tool
5. advance compound
6.engage feed
So you save one step, but setting up the auto stop may take as much time as the threading process, as you need to run it up to the stop point a number of times and adjust it until you get it exactly right.
It saves a precision-required step, I think is the point. The cross-slide adjust needs to be pretty accurate to get back into the thread perfectly. I'd have to play with the tool to know if it's worth the difference in rigidity in the setup.@@oldschool1993
❤
Where Can I, Get One ?
email autoretractthreader@gmail.com for purchase info.
3/4 in would work thanks let me know and also which email do you want me to use have a Great Day
Contact me at autoretractthreader@gmail.com
how about a carriage stop that auto disengages the half nut?
Like this? th-cam.com/video/U4gDuL0VDRQ/w-d-xo.html
Search for Ainjest. These were common years ago.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 very much like this!! why didn't i think of that LOL Thank you!!
@@SquareRootOfNegativeOne All of my creations are so Stupidly Simple that it seems obvious once you see it. I'm always waiting for someone to tell me it was in Popular Mechanics 1958.
Are there plans available for this tool? 1:13
I have been too busy making these for sale, the drawings have taken a back seat.
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 Thank you for your reply. Can I buy one and how much are you charging?
It looks like a fabulous device.
Cheers
Garry
Thank you Garry. Here's my current ad. facebook.com/marketplace/item/3670169666533122/
do u sell these for south bend 16" thanks
Yes I do, BXA or CXA toolpost?
I have a Aloris BXA tool post. what would it cost ? do i need to send you my email or phone number? please let me Know
how do i go about getting one from you? thanks
You can order it right here, what size toolpost?@@jimrobinette878
Alorris tool post model BXA made in USA. how much do they cost?@@phineasj.whoopee3301
🌅💚💐
how can i buy one your email does not work
I just tested it, the email is working. Try copy and paste instead of typing it. Let me know what type/size toolpost you have.
When operational failure occurs (and it will). I will watch the TH-cam ER visit update video.
Shut up and take my money!
Gladly, what style & size toolpost?
Maybe it's good for old people with poor vision or reflexes. But it's a nice piece.
Smart idea but dangerous! The spring mechanism should be encased in a tool pocket, if the spring fails, and it eventually will, bye bye possible eye!
You might want to consider eye protection while machining. There are other hazards as well.
😊@@bobturnbull18😊
Taki jestes cwany to czemu nie gwintujesz do końca na tym dziadostwie
Co byś zasugerował?
@@phineasj.whoopee3301 Trochę wprawy i ręczną obsługą odsunięcia noża i jednocześnie powrotu maszyny dojedziesz nawet na 0,5mm do ścianki oczywiście zależy od szerokości noża, jeśli jest tylko na szerokość skoku gwintu można zrobić idealnie. 😄