I've got something similar using the matchfit system, but I decided to add a runner to it as well. This always keeps the jig straight, and without needing the fence itself it let's me have the board overhang on both sides if I really need to joint a wider board
Love this jig. There are so many of these on YT as you must know but this one struck a chord with me. So simple, so functional. Thanks so much. I'm going to build one just like it except the clamping grooves will be dovetails so I can use my Micro Jig clamps and won't have to buy the t-track. Yes, I'm that cheap!😅🤣🤑
Just want to say that I very much enjoy the projects your present and the manner in which you present them. I am learning a great deal so be proud of that
I am so glad I found this channel! Awesome information and great videos with fun presentation. Seriously, thank you. You have already helped me a bunch.
Excellent, except to prevent some confusion and frustration for newbs I think you should have mentioned this method of clamping is not for boards that are warped on the wide sides. I mean the kind that need edge clamped and shimmed under the high spots, onto a planer sled. In that case, which do you want to do first? The rip sled, or the planer sled ?
I have been thinging of something like this for the last week or so. To straighten up timbers off of pallets. Timed well for me, I was debating on T tracks, but they wll now be included.
Great teaching videos, and thank you for the free plans you offer. I will be purchasing all I need from your information under the video. I hope you get credit for the purchases.
Great presentation! I have a very small - 3' x 4' - work table attached to my Black and Decker work stand. I like the idea of adding tracks and clamps to this small piece. Any suggestions? Thanks!
thanks for your content. it's educational, quick, and entertaining just enough for me. I'm just starting to take up some DIY woodworking projects. Your materials list and building plans help tremendously. I also like that you are not always relying on expensive woods or tools. Would you consider making an outdoor chair or a folding workbench?
@4:28 - If you glue the halves together just a little bit offset side-to-side, then you can run a factory edge on one half against the fence to guarantee a perfectly straight cut. Then flip over to trim the other, and you have two perfectly flush straight edges..
That double layer base to accomidate the t-track thickness steals quite some available cutting height. Use the microjig dovetail clamps directly routed into the wood, gain cutting height and save money by not needing t-tracks.
The Minnesota winter has slowed my transition into the new shop. I still got to get the roof insulated and put up some OBS walls. I should transition to it this spring
How dare you say that I don't need a jointer - using your logic (as applied by my better half) then I need no more than a screw driver and a pair of pliers! :)
When you glue two pieces together you lose the factory edge because you can’t guarantee that they are perfectly in line. So I cut all four sides on the table saw and miter saw to restore the 90 degree corners
I have an older table saw. No rack n pinion fence. In fact the fence is terrible. I do my best measuring the fence to the blade every time I reposition the fence. Also, I cannot adjust the blade. It seems to be ok, but I’m sure it’s not spot on. Am I waiting my time & $$ making this or any jig or sled to use on the table saw? I hope to get a Dewalt job site saw when the budget allows. Or birthday comes around. Thank you!
If your table saw top has one or more miter slot(s) that extends parallel to the blade (or which can be adjusted parallel to the blade) you can make useful jigs by attaching a corresponding miter slot slider to the bottom of the jig, so that the miter slot and engaging slider ensure straight line movement of the jig, without relying on the fence. I did this on an old Ridgid job site saw with a crappy fence. I have a newer saw now, with a good fence and a riving knife which is much better, safer and easier to use. If you get injured (or even ruin expensive hardwood) because an old saw with a crappy fence, non adjustable blade and w/o a riving knife causes work piece pinching and kickback, you're not saving money.
after gluing up the mdf, you run it through the table saw, but what if the glue up isnt exact? wont you just register of of that uneven edge and end up with the two sides not being straight or parallel to the fence?
Cool jig, I don't know why I didn't think of this I've been using a different design of toggle clamps. Anyway off topic what's the status of that new shop you're building? It looked awesome the last time you filmed it
It’s coming along slowly, but surely. The Minnesota winter slowed down the progress because it’s only half insulated and I don’t want to be out there working on it in 5 degrees. Should be fully up and running by Fall 2023
Your jig only has t-track/slots running across the width of the jig -- no slots running along the length of the jig. To me, it seems width-wise slots are all you really need. But lots of other designs on TH-cam and elsewhere have both the width-wise slots *and* a couple of length-wise slots. What's your take on incorporating length-wise slots?
I would only add a single length wise t track in order to use the jig with a planer for correcting twisted boards. I’d use the length wise track to pin the board in place while I use shims to keep it from rocking. I thought about incorporating this in the design but desired it wasn’t worth it and over complicates
Don't need T track. Get a router bit that cuts the T slot directly into the wood. (But first use straight groove bit to remove some before using T bit. There are several out there on amazon and ebay depending on size bolt you use. I use 1/4 hex bolts
It is great to see enthusiastic people, making their life easy by creating aids. However, there is always a setback specifically when the one has small shop and no space to store so many of these. My case is similar, and I cannot afford to make/store so many. Therefore, I have a straight sturdy aluminum profile that I simply clamp to the saw fence and as such I'm extending it up to the profile's native length. Then I use it as fence, and if I have at least two points of contact with the fence I can make a straight cut. Yes, it has limitations if the board has bulges on both sides and I cannot have at least two points of contact, or the board is so crocked that it makes no possible to preserve enough material. Then I really need a jig like the one in the video.
I can’t hate on jointers because they are faster and I’d like to get one someday, but if you have a smaller shop and can’t fit a jointer this is a good alternative
@@BearMountainBuilds I agree that it makes it tough with a smaller shop like my one car garage and a huge tablesaw outfeed and assembly table but it makes production lot faster. My Wahuda 8” jointer arrives today
Nice jig. Also can I say one of the best explained and formatted videos. What it is; what it does; how it works; how to make it. Subbed.
Just wanted to drop you a note and thank you for the free plans for Planter Box and jig to square boards!!
Also I am subscribed to your channel.
I've got something similar using the matchfit system, but I decided to add a runner to it as well. This always keeps the jig straight, and without needing the fence itself it let's me have the board overhang on both sides if I really need to joint a wider board
Love this jig. There are so many of these on YT as you must know but this one struck a chord with me. So simple, so functional. Thanks so much. I'm going to build one just like it except the clamping grooves will be dovetails so I can use my Micro Jig clamps and won't have to buy the t-track. Yes, I'm that cheap!😅🤣🤑
Nice jig! It might be a good idea to apply some paste wax to the bottom so it slides smoothly on your saw's tabletop.
Great looking jig. Great job. Good job on the video as well.
Thanks I appreciate it!
I agree. 731 Woodworks is good people and that's great that your channel has some big attention!
Awesome jig. I use it a lot for tapering. Great job!
Just want to say that I very much enjoy the projects your present and the manner in which you present them. I am learning a great deal so be proud of that
Cool Idea!!!! Thanks For The Video!!!!! 👍😎 Much Appreciated!!!! 😀
Hey man! You make great content. I enjoy how simple you make it for us newbies to understand. Thanks again!
Great idea really if you can't afford a joiner. But you can't beat the speed and 100% accuracy of having one!
Very true. I’d love to have a jointer, but I don’t have the shops space for it yet
Nice jig and thanks for explaining your projects, some guys just build projects and they just record themselves without explaining..
I am so glad I found this channel! Awesome information and great videos with fun presentation. Seriously, thank you. You have already helped me a bunch.
Perfect timing. I need one of these. Thanks!
Excellent, except to prevent some confusion and frustration for newbs I think you should have mentioned this method of clamping is not for boards that are warped on the wide sides.
I mean the kind that need edge clamped and shimmed under the high spots, onto a planer sled. In that case, which do you want to do first? The rip sled, or the planer sled ?
I have been thinging of something like this for the last week or so. To straighten up timbers off of pallets.
Timed well for me, I was debating on T tracks, but they wll now be included.
Great video! First woodworker that I have seen use all the T-track in his worktable.
Great teaching videos, and thank you for the free plans you offer. I will be purchasing all I need from your information under the video. I hope you get credit for the purchases.
Thanks so much! I’m learning and don’t have a jointer!
I like your video Very self explaining
Great idea, particularly because I already have everything needed to make it.
Great presentation! I have a very small - 3' x 4' - work table attached to my Black and Decker work stand. I like the idea of adding tracks and clamps to this small piece. Any suggestions? Thanks!
It's a nifty little jig thank you.
Great jig and an easy build. Thanks.
Great job… what about plans for some of these jigs
Great jig, truly enjoy your work. You maybe able to use that jig as a tapering jig as well.
Great idea and plans! Thank you! Subscribed
Great work. Thanks.
thanks for your content. it's educational, quick, and entertaining just enough for me. I'm just starting to take up some DIY woodworking projects. Your materials list and building plans help tremendously. I also like that you are not always relying on expensive woods or tools. Would you consider making an outdoor chair or a folding workbench?
@4:28 - If you glue the halves together just a little bit offset side-to-side, then you can run a factory edge on one half against the fence to guarantee a perfectly straight cut. Then flip over to trim the other, and you have two perfectly flush straight edges..
That double layer base to accomidate the t-track thickness steals quite some available cutting height. Use the microjig dovetail clamps directly routed into the wood, gain cutting height and save money by not needing t-tracks.
Thanks for this video
Great jig. Do you have a list of the power tools you use. Trying to get a wood shop setup. Really enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them.
I have a list of my go to tools in the video description. If there are anymore you want I can give you recommendations
Thanks.
That’s a great jig for edges. Would you happen to have a jig for flat surfaces ? Thanks
I have some ideas for modifying this jig to put shims between the board and the jig then run it through a planer
Try making the t track out of wood. You can support the piece closer to the blade with out risking running metal into the blade.
Great tip and video
A lot of my warped boards are not just warped in one dimension but both. How do you deal with the longer flat side when warped?
If you were to put a miter slot rail on the bottom it might give some options instead of using the fence as a guide. Either way, great jig.
I was just going to suggest this as well. Gives you another level of control against drifting from the fence for the longer pieces.
That’s a great idea! Might do that in a 2.0 version
@@BearMountainBuilds Looking forward to seeing the update.
Hey.
Are you in your new shed yet? Looked like a cool build!
The Minnesota winter has slowed my transition into the new shop. I still got to get the roof insulated and put up some OBS walls. I should transition to it this spring
Have you tried to use that sled with the tracks on to also double as a sled for the planer?
I haven't, but I thought about making some modifications to do that
Great video!!!
Thanks for the video. Couldn't you just use the fence of the table saw as your straight edge to begin with?
Not if the board is curving
How dare you say that I don't need a jointer - using your logic (as applied by my better half) then I need no more than a screw driver and a pair of pliers! :)
Just curious, you cut the MDF and glued to gather. Then cut edges … is that can cause issue since factory edge is gone? Thanks
When you glue two pieces together you lose the factory edge because you can’t guarantee that they are perfectly in line. So I cut all four sides on the table saw and miter saw to restore the 90 degree corners
Can you also use this as a tapering jig?
Yes you can! That’s another reason why I used T-track
I have an older table saw. No rack n pinion fence. In fact the fence is terrible. I do my best measuring the fence to the blade every time I reposition the fence. Also, I cannot adjust the blade. It seems to be ok, but I’m sure it’s not spot on. Am I waiting my time & $$ making this or any jig or sled to use on the table saw? I hope to get a Dewalt job site saw when the budget allows. Or birthday comes around. Thank you!
If your table saw top has one or more miter slot(s) that extends parallel to the blade (or which can be adjusted parallel to the blade) you can make useful jigs by attaching a corresponding miter slot slider to the bottom of the jig, so that the miter slot and engaging slider ensure straight line movement of the jig, without relying on the fence. I did this on an old Ridgid job site saw with a crappy fence. I have a newer saw now, with a good fence and a riving knife which is much better, safer and easier to use. If you get injured (or even ruin expensive hardwood) because an old saw with a crappy fence, non adjustable blade and w/o a riving knife causes work piece pinching and kickback, you're not saving money.
after gluing up the mdf, you run it through the table saw, but what if the glue up isnt exact? wont you just register of of that uneven edge and end up with the two sides not being straight or parallel to the fence?
If that happens you can run the piece through a planer
Cool jig, I don't know why I didn't think of this I've been using a different design of toggle clamps. Anyway off topic what's the status of that new shop you're building? It looked awesome the last time you filmed it
It’s coming along slowly, but surely. The Minnesota winter slowed down the progress because it’s only half insulated and I don’t want to be out there working on it in 5 degrees. Should be fully up and running by Fall 2023
@@BearMountainBuilds I'm in Michigan lol I get it. Hope your doing some filming of the building process for when it's complete
Your jig only has t-track/slots running across the width of the jig -- no slots running along the length of the jig. To me, it seems width-wise slots are all you really need.
But lots of other designs on TH-cam and elsewhere have both the width-wise slots *and* a couple of length-wise slots. What's your take on incorporating length-wise slots?
I would only add a single length wise t track in order to use the jig with a planer for correcting twisted boards. I’d use the length wise track to pin the board in place while I use shims to keep it from rocking. I thought about incorporating this in the design but desired it wasn’t worth it and over complicates
are t tracks the same size as the miter tracks on table saws?
The t tracks are 3/4” wide and 3/8” tall
How do you flatten the board to get it 90 degrees to the edge
a planer.
Stop letting that guy touch it! 🤣
The only thing I would ever ad is they measuring tape so you don't have to use your tape measure all the time
Can't find your t track board. Brian
Don't need T track. Get a router bit that cuts the T slot directly into the wood. (But first use straight groove bit to remove some before using T bit. There are several out there on amazon and ebay depending on size bolt you use. I use 1/4 hex bolts
I like your jig. Just a small note, You said it's MDF but you're using particle board. There is a difference.
is mdf a little more solid than particle board?
@@xisotopex yes absolutely, MDF is a solid and stable material. Particle board is garbage for most woodworking project. except cabinets.
It is great to see enthusiastic people, making their life easy by creating aids. However, there is always a setback specifically when the one has small shop and no space to store so many of these. My case is similar, and I cannot afford to make/store so many. Therefore, I have a straight sturdy aluminum profile that I simply clamp to the saw fence and as such I'm extending it up to the profile's native length. Then I use it as fence, and if I have at least two points of contact with the fence I can make a straight cut. Yes, it has limitations if the board has bulges on both sides and I cannot have at least two points of contact, or the board is so crocked that it makes no possible to preserve enough material. Then I really need a jig like the one in the video.
But a jointer is faster
I can’t hate on jointers because they are faster and I’d like to get one someday, but if you have a smaller shop and can’t fit a jointer this is a good alternative
@@BearMountainBuilds I agree that it makes it tough with a smaller shop like my one car garage and a huge tablesaw outfeed and assembly table but it makes production lot faster. My Wahuda 8” jointer arrives today
Lol don't Touch it 🤣
Ya didn't use it
You can also use this jig as a taller fence by clamping it to your existing fence.