Compression bothers me (like running). Forward thrust not so much. As long as my spine is not being compressed I'm okay. Bending and twisting also causes discomfort and pain, usually for several days. I have to be very careful of what I do and how I do it.
Subscribed! that midrange sounds vicious. could I ask how you got that carb tuned to idle with so much overlap in the cam? Do you set a lot of initial timing? air bypass holes in the throttle plates? Asking because I just fired up my home-built 406 sbc and having trouble getting my 244/244 @0.050 / 106 lsa cam to idle. At partial throttle it sounds smooth from 2000rpm up, but drops to 600rpm and then dies when I let off the gas. Running a 750 DP with annular boosters. Any advice would be greatly appreciated !
Thanks for suscribing and commenting. The throttle plates aren't drilled. The cam is a Lunati solid roller 268/276@.050 with .660/.680 lift. Car has 38 degrees of timing - we've played with the timing a lot at the strip. Hard to diagnose issues without seeing in person, but a couple things come to mind. Have you tried to increase the idle speed? I would also check the fuel pressure and timing. What size jets are you running? Did you run new fuel lines for the new engine? If so, did you run fuel through the lines and into a bucket to flush out the trash? A lot of trash gets left behind after cuttting fuel lines to length. This trash gets into the carb and can cause some real issues.
@@burresscounty Jetting is 72 in the front and 80 in rear. I ended up succeeding in getting an idle around 1300 with initial timing around 40 degrees, but it still seems excessively high for the size of cam. I am trying not to increase idle speed past the point where transfer the slots are exposed about .050" as I've read that will cause an overly rich idle. Where is your idle speed set? Did you set it up to limit transfer slot exposure? My Fuel lines were same as last engine and are clear as I drained the old gas before starting new engine. I appreciate the reply! thank you
@@burresscounty Hey man yes I got it figured out, thanks for the follow up! I ended up with a 1/8" hole in each throttle plate in order to get each of the transfer slots exposed about .040". Idle mixture screws are 1-1/4 out on each corner (I think that was my main issue, not enough idle fuel). Timing is locked out at about 36 degrees. Also running a 3.5 power valve because 5.5 causes it to bog under wide open throttle.
Idk why I was recommended this but that's dope 🔥🔥🔥
Glad you're here. Thanks.
Thats alot of power
Gotta put it down and keep traction tho
That’s America trump 2024 ❤️
MAGA!
Wear a helmet...protect the motherboard
Not a bad idea. 👍
Wow! Like on ice. The car has the Mickey SS Pro Street Drag Radials on it.
Letting off when you saw oncoming is what earned you a like. We are allowed to act stupid sometimes, not be stupid. Bitchin ride btw.
Agreed. No way I would ever put others in danger. Thanks for commenting.
How's your back. Does the thrust hurt it? Still nerve issues?
Compression bothers me (like running). Forward thrust not so much. As long as my spine is not being compressed I'm okay. Bending and twisting also causes discomfort and pain, usually for several days. I have to be very careful of what I do and how I do it.
Peddle peddle peddle!!!
I good burnout and some traction compound should help.
Bad ass
Thanks 10-mm 🤟
Subscribed! that midrange sounds vicious. could I ask how you got that carb tuned to idle with so much overlap in the cam? Do you set a lot of initial timing? air bypass holes in the throttle plates? Asking because I just fired up my home-built 406 sbc and having trouble getting my 244/244 @0.050 / 106 lsa cam to idle. At partial throttle it sounds smooth from 2000rpm up, but drops to 600rpm and then dies when I let off the gas. Running a 750 DP with annular boosters. Any advice would be greatly appreciated !
Thanks for suscribing and commenting. The throttle plates aren't drilled. The cam is a Lunati solid roller 268/276@.050 with .660/.680 lift. Car has 38 degrees of timing - we've played with the timing a lot at the strip.
Hard to diagnose issues without seeing in person, but a couple things come to mind. Have you tried to increase the idle speed? I would also check the fuel pressure and timing. What size jets are you running? Did you run new fuel lines for the new engine? If so, did you run fuel through the lines and into a bucket to flush out the trash? A lot of trash gets left behind after cuttting fuel lines to length. This trash gets into the carb and can cause some real issues.
@@burresscounty Jetting is 72 in the front and 80 in rear. I ended up succeeding in getting an idle around 1300 with initial timing around 40 degrees, but it still seems excessively high for the size of cam. I am trying not to increase idle speed past the point where transfer the slots are exposed about .050" as I've read that will cause an overly rich idle. Where is your idle speed set? Did you set it up to limit transfer slot exposure? My Fuel lines were same as last engine and are clear as I drained the old gas before starting new engine. I appreciate the reply! thank you
@@colinjohnson7663 Did you get it figured out? What did you end up having to do?
@@burresscounty Hey man yes I got it figured out, thanks for the follow up! I ended up with a 1/8" hole in each throttle plate in order to get each of the transfer slots exposed about .040". Idle mixture screws are 1-1/4 out on each corner (I think that was my main issue, not enough idle fuel). Timing is locked out at about 36 degrees. Also running a 3.5 power valve because 5.5 causes it to bog under wide open throttle.
Glad you got it right!
Damn that thing sounds violent
It's a healthy car for sure. Thanks for watching!
You got a sub outta me bud!!! Thanks for entertaining!!!
Awesome! Thanks!