I mostly came here to hear you say burglar alarm, but I stayed for the content! All kidding aside, thanks for the detailed network install series, it's been very nice to see!
I genuinely looked to see if I could find a purple bell box so I could actually have a purple burglar alarm but I couldn't find one. Might see if I can make a purple insert that looks decent once I get a colour printer
@@camerongray1515I made an insert for mine using overhead projector acetate - illuminated house number over the front door (bellbox backlight on a programmable output set as a timer)
Am I dull enough to watch a near two hour video on a Saturday night on an Alarm system I am very well versed with? Yes! Was it enjoyable? Absolutely! Those new capture sensors look interesting, love the way they’re much easier to wire and easy to swap. Curious to see more about how you’re linking the smoke alarms up, I just bought Texe smoke alarms when I fitted them in my unit and left the landlords mains wired system in place. Oh and this has reminded me, my panel battery is due a replacement :p
I don't own an alarm system, I don't plan to buy one any time soon, so what did I learn watching this video? Well, I didn't know a laser printer could print on transparent 'paper' hehe. Love your videos man ❤
Back in the mid 90s I thought you could only print on overhead transparency sheets with a laser printer, I say this because my school used those sheets with the overhead projectors, and there was a laser printer in the library.
So to get around your 2 area issue, you will need to set up area suites, under area options. This will allow you to arm a suite (multiple areas) from the A+B Kp. Also a nice little usability addition is to select auto yes for each user, this will mean you don't need to press yes or tick when entering the code for disarm. Also would recommend turning off fault and service tones under global, this can be quite annoying for exit errors.
After watching this video in full, I just got so impressed by all those smart designs of Texecom alarm system, from a newer approach to tamper and even using a keypad as a mini zone expander of 2 zones. This just makes life of installers and users much easier. As installers have the option to put 2 zones near a keypad instead of using an expander. While users may still disable panel tamper(by putting jumper caps onto panel tamper terminals) if they do not like it despite panel tamper being an integrated part within panel's firmware. Also, wintex software seems easy to get hands onto.
Self installed my Texecom Premier Elite several years ago with Ricochet and Smartcom - has been rock steady and dependable. Highly recommended ‘proper’ alarm
In Texecom's installation manual, local arm and local disarm serve as the user will only be able to arm/disarm areas that a keypad is assigned to, or disarm areas that are in entry or alarm. If the aim is to disarm the house, while leaving the garage armed. Perhaps only assigning area A to front door keypad satisfies this requirement. Since that's only assigned to area A and with local arm/disarm given to absolute master user mentioned earlier, only the house should disarm despite code of absolute master user is entered. Since front door keypad is only assigned to area A. If another keypad is assigned to both areas, and absolute master user code entered, then all areas will disarm. This is pretty much about making use of local arm and disarm, while using keypad area assignment to control arming/disarming behaviour. Hope this helps.
Afaik, the difference between the standard PetWise Captures and the Capture PET is a combination of slightly different lens masking and adjustments to the pulse count algorithms. The best analogy for it, is the normal PetWise mode is equivalent to the Small Animal mode on the PET, while the larger pet mode looks for a larger pulse count, while the lens adjustment masks the creep zone and adds additional masking.
Even though it’s a elite 24 it can support up to 88 zones but flashing the panel firmware to a larger panel it will then be limited to it’s hardware limitations ie the 88 panels have a programmable relay hardware the 24 does not so that feature would not be able to be used I’ve flashed up many panels to add a couple extra zones and expanders
I self installed a wireless Ajax alarm system some time ago because the batteries last 5 years, it looks pretty modern and has lots of accessories. It's worked flawlessly for two years so far. Had to pretend to own an alarm company so the suppliers would sell me the kit. Installers wanted to charge me £1000 for fixing a few accessories around the house. UK laws on this as outdated.
Although AJAX is less complex than a proper alarm system, such systems are not made for every odd DIYer. Also proper alarm systems are graded to comply with insurance levels, improperly configured systems done by DIYers may look the brand and manufacturer look bad.
Hi Cameron. Very useful video. I have a tamper question. I have slightly older PIRs that have +- 12v, 2 x ALARM, 2 x TAMPER and IRLED connections. I've set the jumpers to 4K7 and 2K2. Should I be using two wires from a zone on the border (In your video the yellow and green) and using them both for the alarm and tamper somehow? Or should I be using an additional 2 wires, 2 for the alarm and 2 for the tamper? If so, how?
I've found the installation manual. For this EOL connection I, for example, connect my yellow wire to the left hand alarm connection and my green to the right hand blue connection? Does that sound correct?
Hi, great video. I fitted the same alarm myself a couple of years ago and added the smartcom panel too for the Texecom connect app, however you need a installer I’d code to get to the app on your phone. Not sure how to get one, so it still can’t be accessed from my phone. Watched one video on youtube about how to get one, but it didn’t work for me! Hope you can come up with something?
Does the panel casing have knock out plugs or anything equivalent so you can run in extra cables should you want to? Will you be doing any home automation integration with your alarm, for example, controlling lights, heating etc? Do you think you need/will you be installing an internal screamer siren inside your house? Do the keypad lights dim down if no buttons are pressed for a while?
I see your hallway keypad said PROX but the other keypads didn't. I've been very happy with Texecom Prox fobs, which get programmed by the panel. Found out the hard way when adding the fobs to a second system, and it changed the codes on the fobs so they no longer operated the first panel. You can "import" fobs so they don't get reprogrammed.
They're definitely an option but personally I prefer sticking to codes - Probably being overly paranoid but I like having the "two factor authentication" that a code offers - something I have: Key, something I know: Code. With a prox fob, the fob would likely be on the same keyring as my keys so if I were to drop them on the driveway while leaving, or someone stole them from my jacket then they'd have both the keys, and a way to disarm the alarm.
About what's mentioned in video, about only disarming house and still having garage armed. Perhaps a bit of experiment can figure things out. Which is creating an absolute master user(Give that user access to ALL areas, which is area A and B in this case. And give it LOCAL ARM and LOCAL DISARM. ) Arm the house at a keypad in the house(which will arm both the house and garage), then try out the "absolute master" user at the garage. See if that disarms everything, or it only disarms the garage.
Hi Cameron. On your area disarming issue - I've not installed my Texecom alarm yet, but want to do the same as you with the garage as a separate area, and not wanting it to disarm when I enter the house. Have a look at "local disarm" in the installation manual, as I'm wondering if that solves the problem?
Local disarm works but to use that the house keypad would need to only be assigned to the house area meaning that the quick arm button wouldn't arm the garage as well. As far as I can tell you basically have two options to get what I want - Separate garage and house codes but can then use quick arm to arm both areas or the same code for both areas, but you'd need to enter the code to arm both areas instead of using quick arm. Really just comes down to which method you prefer, I'll probably play with both and see which I like better
Hi, one more question about how to get a wintex, do I need register account with texecom first? but I am not profesional instaler only DIYer. What details must put in mandatory section: company name, position. Please help
You'll need to register an account, I just put my own name into the Company Name box.etc, it's not verified or anything. Wouldn't be really any different to say a self employed electrician who operates their business under their own name.
If I remember correctly, the Premier 48 is the same size and much the same price as the 24, but it has two power terminals adjacent to each pair of zone terminals, making for a much neater job if you have lots of PIR zones.
You are making some very interesting videos Good for you that you can do these things, and glad you gave a warning to people, that it is not easy to do. But nice to see how you did this, and nice video.
Was hoping to see the Texecom using Home Assistant. I realised I could save money by "sharing" PIRs and Sensors between Texecom and Home Assistant. I assume you are using texecom2mqtt. Looking forward to seeing more on this. I'm using a Premier Elite 64 (V5.01.03LS1) - Only using a wired main panel everything else is Ricochet wireless which has been brilliant. JUst seen you've done a video on home heating control. I'm using some Moes TRV's that I've had a couple of years but probably could do with adding some more - Looking at Tado and Aqara. Has to be Zigbee as house is very old with very thick walls of stone and solid floors - so ethernet (and even mains wiring) is a pain to add. Great work.
I’ve got about 14 tados in an old house and they are a nightmare. They’re a proprietary network which don’t mesh they also only work with one receiver so unless it’s in the middle of the house you’ll have problems! I can’t recommend tado again. The apps great but I’ve had a lot of issues My plan is to keep the boiler controller in tado and then buy some zigbee trvs and control them all in home assistant
Hi I have exactly the same panel bought last week, I finished instalations. I have downloaded manual configuration in pdf 196pages, but I would to use wintex but I dont have it. Do you know how to get Wintex, this is DIY instalation. Thank for help
You can download Wintex from the Texecom website: branding.texe.com/uk/products/range/software-peripherals/. You'll need to register for an account but there's nothing stopping you from registering as a DIYer
Plan is to install some sort of Aico alarms and use the relay base to interface them with the alarm panel. That way I have conventional, trusted interlinked alarms which will operate completely standalone and then the interface with the alarm panel is just an extra on top.
Are you able to use it from an app from your phone just in case you want to it goes off at when you're not home you can turn it off if a neighbor tells you
There are a couple of different options - you can either use their "SmartCom" network communicator which will let you use the Texecom app, or it can be integrated with other smart home systems such as Home Assistant or Control 4 using a either a SmartCom or a ComIP module.
Could you have installed the door contact horizontally in the upper side of the door (instead of the side)? That way, you would have a shorter cable on sight.
For the back door, yes, but for the front door the gap at the top was slightly too narrow. I decided I'd rather have it the same on both doors rather than having one horizontal and one vertical.
Excellent video Cameron! I also really like these systems and its great to see your house taking shape! For the part where you arm both the house and garage if you arm from the main keypad, but only unset the house from the main keypad, etc. Have you looked at Area Arm Suites in the manual? I know that they can definitely control which keypads arm and disarm which areas but its possible that they may force that same behaviour for both arming and disarming? Would be interested to know.
Update, you need to find the option for local disarm to disarm only one area with one user code. Basically it will only let the user disarm the Area that the keypad is assigned to. Just tried it on my Elite 64-W
Thanks! Local disarm is also an option however with this I'd then need to have the house keypads assigned only to area A. This would work but would mean that I can't use the quick arm button to arm both the house and the garage. It seems as though I basically have two different options - Separate codes for garage and house but quick arm works, or the same code for each area but need to enter a code to arm the system. I'll play about and see which option I prefer.
I definitely will be - my previous integration was custom built using the Crestron protocol on the panel. For my new setup, I'll be using Texecom2MQTT within Home Assistant to communicate with the panel using the Texecom Connect protocol and pull all of the zones into HA automatically. Currently I'm using my old bodgy UART to Ethernet console server from my previous video but I'm going to see if I can pick up an official ComIP cheaply and will then make a dedicated video on the setup process.
I'd also love to see the Home Assistant integration. Even though the system you installed was amazing, being able to control everything via Home Assistant might be easier. I wonder if it would be possible to arm and disarm the alarm solely based on your phone entering and exiting the house: as you walk into the house with your smartphone on your pocket, it immediately disarm the alarm. Just an idea, don't know if it's practical or even desirable.
Installed the premier elite in my own house wintex makes programing so much easier plus when you come to service you can see real time values not a system for a novice to install. Proximty tags would be benificial also
Everything used here came from: www.powersaver.co.uk/ however there are a few other distributors so worth pricing a few up and finding wherever is cheaper.
Awesome video Cameron, i've been looking for a alarmsystem which works with home assistant for a while. I was looking at Satel but wasn't sure about the programming.. This video pretty much convinced me to buy Texecom. I would really like to see a follow up video about intergrating home assistant. There isnt an integration is there? Thanks!! ---- Found your other video now, still interested in the ip module if you are going to use that!
Hoping to get around to making a video on the integration, I originally planned to put it into this video but it was going to make it too long and my initial attempt to cover it was rushed. It actually integrated really nicely with HA - You'd install a "ComIP" network module into the panel and then use the "Texecom2MQTT" addon in HA: github.com/dchesterton/texecom2mqtt-hassio. This will bridge the panel over to MQTT and then from there, as long as you have the MQTT integration also in HA, it'll auto discover the panel and provide alarm panels for each area and each zone will show as a sensor.
Nice, take a look at Konnected boards, I added an Alarm Panel Pro to an existing wired system and integrated with Smartthings, works with other platforms. No need for keypads as it auto arms and disarms via ring fencing with smart pones and sends notifications if triggered. Can also set via my Smarttings displays.
Looks interesting, although personally I'd prefer a conventional alarm panel such as this with dedicated keypads and then add smart integration through a network module instead of a completely smart panel with no conventional interface. The Alarm Panel Pro also doesn't appear to offer other standard alarm security features such as tamper protection - it's probably fine for basic home automation stuff such as using sensors for controlling lights, but for an actual home security application, I'd rather stick with a trusted panel from an actual alarm manufacturer that definitely meets all of the various regulatory requirements.
There is a way if u select show armed areas in the area options the far and time will show the strata armed by either letters ABCD or GARAGE if you give the area a name my system displays the areas names also if you use the use areas settings on the keypad you can turn the exit tone off for the garage on the house keypad so the arming tone is not so annoying but you would still have the entry tone and alarm tones also you would not need 2 codes the one code would work independently local dis arm also is great it only disarms the area that is in entry so secondary codes are not required there is also a setting that both code and tag is required to disarm
33:30 interesting using a microphone, Ive always been used to sensors that mount directly onto the glass which when they detect so so much vibration, ofc when the alarm is armed they would go off 1:10:27 ya know, Modern Problems requires modern solutoions. If you can make it look pretty and it works its not dumb 🤣 But nice install. Been planning to install some system myself althou not Texcom i was thinking of using Neo DSC, but will see, But Defiently gave me some ideas of how to do stuff
I would assume the difference between the Capture and the Capture PET is that the PET has two PIR sensors. Low and a high beam. Both sensors see something = human, only lower one sees something = pet. Sprinkle in some 11 herbs and spices frequency analysis to the chip decoding the signals to try and figure out whether the pet is actually a pet and not a burglar rolling on the floor.
Why not double up the power and ground lines rather than simply tie wrapping them back? It would reduce voltage drop, and therefore current consumption.
Hi Cameron . Very help full video. i got a question for you where did you get this Wintex software , k tried to download on texecom site but apparently you need to registered as an alarm installer, please let me know , Regards
Great video but I’m surprised you didn’t wire up the tamper circuits for the sensors. AFAIK you’re meant to connect them in series so that the alarm can monitor the integrity of the wires even while it’s not armed.
It's wired in an EOL configuration - only two wires are used per device however there are resistors in each that are put across the wires and this changes in various states. All ok - 2.2k reistance, alarm state 6.8k resistance (2.2k tamper resistor plus 4.7k alarm resistor) and if a wire is cut or the tamper is otherwise triggered, the loop will go open circuit. So all the sensors do have tamper protection plus this configuration also prevents sensors being bypassed by short circuiting them.
I needed to correct you slightly. We use both RIGID & EMT conduit in the US l. The US is vast and I am an Electricition in ChIcago and our code is everything is in conduit Rigid or EMT. We are trained to bend both manually. It is an art and skill. Yes, here are some rigid conduit that we just will use the 850dx because a machine i easier for thicker rigid conduit like 1 1/4 and up. Maybe you could try flex or sealtight if it's available there
I was very much skimming over the topic in this video - What we use as steel conduit in the UK is probably closer to your "Rigid" conduit - it's very thick and needs to be threaded to fit into various accessories (you can see some that I installed next to the panel in this video. We don't really have an equivalent to EMT - lighter duty applications will generally just use plastic conduit. To bend steel conduit, generally a hand operated bender is used, however they are relatively large frame type devices that cost £250+ - we don't really have an equivalent to those "stick" benders you'd use against the ground to bend EMT which are a lot more affordable.
Is this level of security concern typical for UK citizens? I mean, burglar alarm plus a bunch of IP cameras is something I see on a regular basis in Brazil...
It's definitely not required but nice to have for peace of mind - I'm often away travelling so it's nice to not have to worry about the house while I'm away and if something happens I can easily check cameras and alert police/neighbours/friends/family back home.etc. Most people don't go to the ridiculous effort I have done, however nowadays most houses will at least have a video doorbell or a couple of cameras and often some sort of alarm system.
@@camerongray1515 Good to know! I live in a gated community so in theory I don't need alarms and cameras but just for the extra security and peace of mind I went all in and build myself a quite capable alarm system. I have 5 IR barriers on fence walls + 4 passive IRs outside my home, all integrated to my NVR that records my 6 IP cameras and sends me e-mails in case of triggers.
Don't forget the "Mega Turbo Deluxe"! 😆 Just had one of those annoying Bearskin ads come on and they were talking about a "soft shell"... I'm sure for a shell to be a shell it needs to be hard, but I don't work in marketing so I could be totally wrong.
I mostly came here to hear you say burglar alarm, but I stayed for the content! All kidding aside, thanks for the detailed network install series, it's been very nice to see!
But it's not purple!
I genuinely looked to see if I could find a purple bell box so I could actually have a purple burglar alarm but I couldn't find one. Might see if I can make a purple insert that looks decent once I get a colour printer
@@camerongray1515Have a look at the Orisec bells. Their tinted bells have purple comfort lights 😂
@@camerongray1515I made an insert for mine using overhead projector acetate - illuminated house number over the front door (bellbox backlight on a programmable output set as a timer)
Am I dull enough to watch a near two hour video on a Saturday night on an Alarm system I am very well versed with? Yes!
Was it enjoyable? Absolutely!
Those new capture sensors look interesting, love the way they’re much easier to wire and easy to swap.
Curious to see more about how you’re linking the smoke alarms up, I just bought Texe smoke alarms when I fitted them in my unit and left the landlords mains wired system in place.
Oh and this has reminded me, my panel battery is due a replacement :p
I don't own an alarm system, I don't plan to buy one any time soon, so what did I learn watching this video? Well, I didn't know a laser printer could print on transparent 'paper' hehe. Love your videos man ❤
Back in the mid 90s I thought you could only print on overhead transparency sheets with a laser printer, I say this because my school used those sheets with the overhead projectors, and there was a laser printer in the library.
So to get around your 2 area issue, you will need to set up area suites, under area options. This will allow you to arm a suite (multiple areas) from the A+B Kp. Also a nice little usability addition is to select auto yes for each user, this will mean you don't need to press yes or tick when entering the code for disarm. Also would recommend turning off fault and service tones under global, this can be quite annoying for exit errors.
Professional
This will be invaluable once the service agreement on my own Texecom system is up. Glad to see Wintex included… didn’t fancy doing it through the pad!
After watching this video in full, I just got so impressed by all those smart designs of Texecom alarm system, from a newer approach to tamper and even using a keypad as a mini zone expander of 2 zones. This just makes life of installers and users much easier. As installers have the option to put 2 zones near a keypad instead of using an expander. While users may still disable panel tamper(by putting jumper caps onto panel tamper terminals) if they do not like it despite panel tamper being an integrated part within panel's firmware. Also, wintex software seems easy to get hands onto.
Self installed my Texecom Premier Elite several years ago with Ricochet and Smartcom - has been rock steady and dependable. Highly recommended ‘proper’ alarm
I like the 'BAR CODE' silk screen without a BAR CODE! Something that's added by the installer during commissioning instead of manufacture?
Have been looking forward to this! Well worth the wait! Great videos, thank you!
can never wrong with Texecom, i’ve got the 64-w which is about 2 years old now, and it’s running great! 👏💪
In Texecom's installation manual, local arm and local disarm serve as the user will only be able to arm/disarm areas that a keypad is assigned to, or disarm areas that are in entry or alarm. If the aim is to disarm the house, while leaving the garage armed. Perhaps only assigning area A to front door keypad satisfies this requirement. Since that's only assigned to area A and with local arm/disarm given to absolute master user mentioned earlier, only the house should disarm despite code of absolute master user is entered. Since front door keypad is only assigned to area A. If another keypad is assigned to both areas, and absolute master user code entered, then all areas will disarm. This is pretty much about making use of local arm and disarm, while using keypad area assignment to control arming/disarming behaviour. Hope this helps.
This video was a 10/10. Also that flush mount panel is Nicee 👍🏼
End of Line wiring also detects someone trying to short out a detector - a classic way to defeat conventional alarm & tamper wiring.
Absolutely love these house videos, thanks for bringing us along, as always!
Afaik, the difference between the standard PetWise Captures and the Capture PET is a combination of slightly different lens masking and adjustments to the pulse count algorithms. The best analogy for it, is the normal PetWise mode is equivalent to the Small Animal mode on the PET, while the larger pet mode looks for a larger pulse count, while the lens adjustment masks the creep zone and adds additional masking.
Tip for the deeper holes, I find filling them initially with minimal expanding foam works great and that leaves less depth for the filler on top.
Even though it’s a elite 24 it can support up to 88 zones but flashing the panel firmware to a larger panel it will then be limited to it’s hardware limitations ie the 88 panels have a programmable relay hardware the 24 does not so that feature would not be able to be used I’ve flashed up many panels to add a couple extra zones and expanders
Fantastic in-depth video as usual mate! Is there a website to download the windex software that you use to configure your system?
I self installed a wireless Ajax alarm system some time ago because the batteries last 5 years, it looks pretty modern and has lots of accessories. It's worked flawlessly for two years so far.
Had to pretend to own an alarm company so the suppliers would sell me the kit. Installers wanted to charge me £1000 for fixing a few accessories around the house. UK laws on this as outdated.
Although AJAX is less complex than a proper alarm system, such systems are not made for every odd DIYer. Also proper alarm systems are graded to comply with insurance levels, improperly configured systems done by DIYers may look the brand and manufacturer look bad.
Hi Cameron. Very useful video. I have a tamper question. I have slightly older PIRs that have +- 12v, 2 x ALARM, 2 x TAMPER and IRLED connections. I've set the jumpers to 4K7 and 2K2. Should I be using two wires from a zone on the border (In your video the yellow and green) and using them both for the alarm and tamper somehow? Or should I be using an additional 2 wires, 2 for the alarm and 2 for the tamper? If so, how?
I've found the installation manual. For this EOL connection I, for example, connect my yellow wire to the left hand alarm connection and my green to the right hand blue connection? Does that sound correct?
Hi, great video. I fitted the same alarm myself a couple of years ago and added the smartcom panel too for the Texecom connect app, however you need a installer I’d code to get to the app on your phone. Not sure how to get one, so it still can’t be accessed from my phone. Watched one video on youtube about how to get one, but it didn’t work for me! Hope you can come up with something?
Does the panel casing have knock out plugs or anything equivalent so you can run in extra cables should you want to? Will you be doing any home automation integration with your alarm, for example, controlling lights, heating etc? Do you think you need/will you be installing an internal screamer siren inside your house? Do the keypad lights dim down if no buttons are pressed for a while?
I see your hallway keypad said PROX but the other keypads didn't. I've been very happy with Texecom Prox fobs, which get programmed by the panel. Found out the hard way when adding the fobs to a second system, and it changed the codes on the fobs so they no longer operated the first panel. You can "import" fobs so they don't get reprogrammed.
They're definitely an option but personally I prefer sticking to codes - Probably being overly paranoid but I like having the "two factor authentication" that a code offers - something I have: Key, something I know: Code. With a prox fob, the fob would likely be on the same keyring as my keys so if I were to drop them on the driveway while leaving, or someone stole them from my jacket then they'd have both the keys, and a way to disarm the alarm.
About what's mentioned in video, about only disarming house and still having garage armed. Perhaps a bit of experiment can figure things out. Which is creating an absolute master user(Give that user access to ALL areas, which is area A and B in this case. And give it LOCAL ARM and LOCAL DISARM. ) Arm the house at a keypad in the house(which will arm both the house and garage), then try out the "absolute master" user at the garage. See if that disarms everything, or it only disarms the garage.
Hi Cameron. On your area disarming issue - I've not installed my Texecom alarm yet, but want to do the same as you with the garage as a separate area, and not wanting it to disarm when I enter the house.
Have a look at "local disarm" in the installation manual, as I'm wondering if that solves the problem?
Local disarm works but to use that the house keypad would need to only be assigned to the house area meaning that the quick arm button wouldn't arm the garage as well. As far as I can tell you basically have two options to get what I want - Separate garage and house codes but can then use quick arm to arm both areas or the same code for both areas, but you'd need to enter the code to arm both areas instead of using quick arm. Really just comes down to which method you prefer, I'll probably play with both and see which I like better
Can you upload the template for the bell box please?!
Hi, one more question about how to get a wintex, do I need register account with texecom first? but I am not profesional instaler only DIYer. What details must put in mandatory section: company name, position. Please help
You'll need to register an account, I just put my own name into the Company Name box.etc, it's not verified or anything. Wouldn't be really any different to say a self employed electrician who operates their business under their own name.
@@camerongray1515ok, I will try it.Thanks for help
If I remember correctly, the Premier 48 is the same size and much the same price as the 24, but it has two power terminals adjacent to each pair of zone terminals, making for a much neater job if you have lots of PIR zones.
Hi - are you able to share the scanned template of the light box? I dont have a scanner.
You are making some very interesting videos
Good for you that you can do these things, and glad you gave a warning to people, that it is not easy to do.
But nice to see how you did this, and nice video.
There is no such thing as a boring story, it all comes down to the story teller. You good sir are a story teller, spent 2 hrs watching this 😂
Was hoping to see the Texecom using Home Assistant. I realised I could save money by "sharing" PIRs and Sensors between Texecom and Home Assistant. I assume you are using texecom2mqtt. Looking forward to seeing more on this. I'm using a Premier Elite 64 (V5.01.03LS1) - Only using a wired main panel everything else is Ricochet wireless which has been brilliant. JUst seen you've done a video on home heating control. I'm using some Moes TRV's that I've had a couple of years but probably could do with adding some more - Looking at Tado and Aqara. Has to be Zigbee as house is very old with very thick walls of stone and solid floors - so ethernet (and even mains wiring) is a pain to add. Great work.
I’ve got about 14 tados in an old house and they are a nightmare. They’re a proprietary network which don’t mesh they also only work with one receiver so unless it’s in the middle of the house you’ll have problems!
I can’t recommend tado again. The apps great but I’ve had a lot of issues
My plan is to keep the boiler controller in tado and then buy some zigbee trvs and control them all in home assistant
@@joshcrowder2151 I'll cross the Tado off my list!
I have the same panel, can I connect ricochet expander to add some wireless pirs?
Not something I've ever tried personally, but it should be possible in theory!
Hi I have exactly the same panel bought last week, I finished instalations. I have downloaded manual configuration in pdf 196pages, but I would to use wintex but I dont have it. Do you know how to get Wintex, this is DIY instalation. Thank for help
You can download Wintex from the Texecom website: branding.texe.com/uk/products/range/software-peripherals/. You'll need to register for an account but there's nothing stopping you from registering as a DIYer
@@camerongray1515 thanks, i will try tomorrow. When registering account, what I shoud put in mandatory section Company and Position?
@@camerongray1515 when registering account what details you put in section about company and positions?
What smoke alarms are you planning on using?
Plan is to install some sort of Aico alarms and use the relay base to interface them with the alarm panel. That way I have conventional, trusted interlinked alarms which will operate completely standalone and then the interface with the alarm panel is just an extra on top.
Hospital conduit saddles are probably the right height.
Are you able to use it from an app from your phone just in case you want to it goes off at when you're not home you can turn it off if a neighbor tells you
There are a couple of different options - you can either use their "SmartCom" network communicator which will let you use the Texecom app, or it can be integrated with other smart home systems such as Home Assistant or Control 4 using a either a SmartCom or a ComIP module.
Could you have installed the door contact horizontally in the upper side of the door (instead of the side)? That way, you would have a shorter cable on sight.
For the back door, yes, but for the front door the gap at the top was slightly too narrow. I decided I'd rather have it the same on both doors rather than having one horizontal and one vertical.
@camerongray1515 thank you very much for the reply and for the series of videos you've been posting. I'm learning a lot from you. Cheers!
Do you have interior siren and if no, why ?
I don't however the keypads will make noise in the event of an alarm so don't really see the need for an actual indoor siren.
Excellent video Cameron! I also really like these systems and its great to see your house taking shape!
For the part where you arm both the house and garage if you arm from the main keypad, but only unset the house from the main keypad, etc. Have you looked at Area Arm Suites in the manual? I know that they can definitely control which keypads arm and disarm which areas but its possible that they may force that same behaviour for both arming and disarming? Would be interested to know.
Update, you need to find the option for local disarm to disarm only one area with one user code. Basically it will only let the user disarm the Area that the keypad is assigned to. Just tried it on my Elite 64-W
Thanks! Local disarm is also an option however with this I'd then need to have the house keypads assigned only to area A. This would work but would mean that I can't use the quick arm button to arm both the house and the garage. It seems as though I basically have two different options - Separate codes for garage and house but quick arm works, or the same code for each area but need to enter a code to arm the system. I'll play about and see which option I prefer.
How are you finding the DJI Pocket 2 vs your Panasonic S5 setup?
Realy good vid! Keep them up!
Interested to see if you are going to update your home assistant integration. Loved your first video on this.
I definitely will be - my previous integration was custom built using the Crestron protocol on the panel. For my new setup, I'll be using Texecom2MQTT within Home Assistant to communicate with the panel using the Texecom Connect protocol and pull all of the zones into HA automatically. Currently I'm using my old bodgy UART to Ethernet console server from my previous video but I'm going to see if I can pick up an official ComIP cheaply and will then make a dedicated video on the setup process.
@ awesome. Looking forward to it.
I'd also love to see the Home Assistant integration. Even though the system you installed was amazing, being able to control everything via Home Assistant might be easier. I wonder if it would be possible to arm and disarm the alarm solely based on your phone entering and exiting the house: as you walk into the house with your smartphone on your pocket, it immediately disarm the alarm. Just an idea, don't know if it's practical or even desirable.
1:06:25 - impressed that they are made in England!
Installed the premier elite in my own house wintex makes programing so much easier plus when you come to service you can see real time values not a system for a novice to install.
Proximty tags would be benificial also
Where did you purchase the alarm system?
Everything used here came from: www.powersaver.co.uk/ however there are a few other distributors so worth pricing a few up and finding wherever is cheaper.
Awesome video Cameron, i've been looking for a alarmsystem which works with home assistant for a while. I was looking at Satel but wasn't sure about the programming.. This video pretty much convinced me to buy Texecom. I would really like to see a follow up video about intergrating home assistant. There isnt an integration is there? Thanks!! ---- Found your other video now, still interested in the ip module if you are going to use that!
Hoping to get around to making a video on the integration, I originally planned to put it into this video but it was going to make it too long and my initial attempt to cover it was rushed. It actually integrated really nicely with HA - You'd install a "ComIP" network module into the panel and then use the "Texecom2MQTT" addon in HA: github.com/dchesterton/texecom2mqtt-hassio. This will bridge the panel over to MQTT and then from there, as long as you have the MQTT integration also in HA, it'll auto discover the panel and provide alarm panels for each area and each zone will show as a sensor.
Nice, take a look at Konnected boards, I added an Alarm Panel Pro to an existing wired system and integrated with Smartthings, works with other platforms. No need for keypads as it auto arms and disarms via ring fencing with smart pones and sends notifications if triggered. Can also set via my Smarttings displays.
Looks interesting, although personally I'd prefer a conventional alarm panel such as this with dedicated keypads and then add smart integration through a network module instead of a completely smart panel with no conventional interface. The Alarm Panel Pro also doesn't appear to offer other standard alarm security features such as tamper protection - it's probably fine for basic home automation stuff such as using sensors for controlling lights, but for an actual home security application, I'd rather stick with a trusted panel from an actual alarm manufacturer that definitely meets all of the various regulatory requirements.
There is a way if u select show armed areas in the area options the far and time will show the strata armed by either letters ABCD or GARAGE if you give the area a name my system displays the areas names also if you use the use areas settings on the keypad you can turn the exit tone off for the garage on the house keypad so the arming tone is not so annoying but you would still have the entry tone and alarm tones also you would not need 2 codes the one code would work independently local dis arm also is great it only disarms the area that is in entry so secondary codes are not required there is also a setting that both code and tag is required to disarm
33:30 interesting using a microphone, Ive always been used to sensors that mount directly onto the glass which when they detect so so much vibration, ofc when the alarm is armed they would go off
1:10:27 ya know, Modern Problems requires modern solutoions. If you can make it look pretty and it works its not dumb 🤣
But nice install. Been planning to install some system myself althou not Texcom i was thinking of using Neo DSC, but will see, But Defiently gave me some ideas of how to do stuff
I would assume the difference between the Capture and the Capture PET is that the PET has two PIR sensors. Low and a high beam.
Both sensors see something = human, only lower one sees something = pet. Sprinkle in some 11 herbs and spices frequency analysis to the chip decoding the signals to try and figure out whether the pet is actually a pet and not a burglar rolling on the floor.
Why not double up the power and ground lines rather than simply tie wrapping them back?
It would reduce voltage drop, and therefore current consumption.
Great time in the loft to run some cables for future 5g antenna connections for more wan's
Hi Cameron .
Very help full video. i got a question for you where did you get this Wintex software , k tried to download on texecom site but apparently you need to registered as an alarm installer, please let me know ,
Regards
You need to register but you don't need to be an alarm installation company, anyone can register
@@camerongray1515 Thanx a lot mate
i am looking for a contact for texecom or a distributor
Great alarm system.
Great video but I’m surprised you didn’t wire up the tamper circuits for the sensors. AFAIK you’re meant to connect them in series so that the alarm can monitor the integrity of the wires even while it’s not armed.
It's wired in an EOL configuration - only two wires are used per device however there are resistors in each that are put across the wires and this changes in various states. All ok - 2.2k reistance, alarm state 6.8k resistance (2.2k tamper resistor plus 4.7k alarm resistor) and if a wire is cut or the tamper is otherwise triggered, the loop will go open circuit. So all the sensors do have tamper protection plus this configuration also prevents sensors being bypassed by short circuiting them.
@ ahh yes. Got it. Thanks.
@ ahh yes. Got it. Thanks.
I needed to correct you slightly. We use both RIGID & EMT conduit in the US l. The US is vast and I am an Electricition in ChIcago and our code is everything is in conduit Rigid or EMT. We are trained to bend both manually. It is an art and skill. Yes, here are some rigid conduit that we just will use the 850dx because a machine i easier for thicker rigid conduit like 1 1/4 and up. Maybe you could try flex or sealtight if it's available there
I was very much skimming over the topic in this video - What we use as steel conduit in the UK is probably closer to your "Rigid" conduit - it's very thick and needs to be threaded to fit into various accessories (you can see some that I installed next to the panel in this video. We don't really have an equivalent to EMT - lighter duty applications will generally just use plastic conduit. To bend steel conduit, generally a hand operated bender is used, however they are relatively large frame type devices that cost £250+ - we don't really have an equivalent to those "stick" benders you'd use against the ground to bend EMT which are a lot more affordable.
I would definitely wire those PIR sensors backwards if there is not a warning that they reversed the printing.
Is this level of security concern typical for UK citizens? I mean, burglar alarm plus a bunch of IP cameras is something I see on a regular basis in Brazil...
It's definitely not required but nice to have for peace of mind - I'm often away travelling so it's nice to not have to worry about the house while I'm away and if something happens I can easily check cameras and alert police/neighbours/friends/family back home.etc. Most people don't go to the ridiculous effort I have done, however nowadays most houses will at least have a video doorbell or a couple of cameras and often some sort of alarm system.
@@camerongray1515 Good to know! I live in a gated community so in theory I don't need alarms and cameras but just for the extra security and peace of mind I went all in and build myself a quite capable alarm system. I have 5 IR barriers on fence walls + 4 passive IRs outside my home, all integrated to my NVR that records my 6 IP cameras and sends me e-mails in case of triggers.
What's up with traditional security systems still looking like they're from 2001. There's absolutely no need for those PIRs to be so big and ugly.
If it was me, I'd put a keypad in the bedroom master bedroom
I hate this trend of throwing random words into product names. The Premier Pro Elite Core Smart X Extreme AI Edition Ultra Max burglar alarm.
Don't forget the "Mega Turbo Deluxe"! 😆 Just had one of those annoying Bearskin ads come on and they were talking about a "soft shell"... I'm sure for a shell to be a shell it needs to be hard, but I don't work in marketing so I could be totally wrong.
Too long brother. Nice help for others
Love from coimbatore TN India 641021