We have raced for 3 years with the stock center diff in 5 different race built Slash 4x4s. It's not an issue. The bearing is the real problem. Greasing it lengthens it's lifespan.
rccarerik, If you had the 1st generation cup from FLM then this is the problem when running big power (4S) set ups. The new cup as you can see in the video has an extended neck past the bearing shoulder (like the stock plastic cup) to help control shaft wobble and then aluminum wearing out. I would suggest trying it again if you have new version and run at lest 75K to 100K in the center diff to keep the shaft speed down when it wheelie's (which is the ultimate reason it wears the aluminum out).
The first Slash I had back in 2010, I went through 2 center diffs. The bearing ate away at the plastic race on the center diff where I pointed at in the video. I have replaced the motor mount with the King Headz that has the larger bearing. The point of my Sleeper series is to point out all the issues most people had, or what i experienced the first time around
You made a great choice buying the King Headz motor mount. We use one and it's wonderful. We have had 1 ssc, 2 trce, 1 strc and one old slash with the KHz and every one uses the stock center diff with no issue. The common theme is that all of those aftermarket chassis use the same size (larger) bearing. The strc is the only one that uses the stock size and I have only ran it this year. It will probably need to be changed soon. Nice video as always RCN!
I have had the centre diff cups for a wile and it was the best thing I bought for it, I also bought the diff cups aswell and they work great to, enjoy the diff cups it will not let u down aspeicel with the king head motor mount
Been trying to get my diff but they've been out of stock thanks for all the great tips Rich been watching a lot of the channel it's very helpful seeing I'm pretty new to the hobby✌🏻
Good deal, at the time, this was the only version available. I always like running a plastic spur, so there's at least one fail point vs. a more expensive component like a motor or expensive driveshafts. Take a look at the Tekno SCT410 2.0, it's a pretty decent rig and needs no mods to be a beast
I was so confused at first I was thinking the slash doesn't have a center diff lmao shows what I know I didn't know you could make the slipper clutch set up a diff, I'll keep mine slipper for bashing I don't go racing or speed runs.
Nice. I have been looking at one of those! As for Servo, Of course Savox 1258tg or if you want a tad quicker, 1257tg. If I were specing an ESC, the Orion r10 is my favorite right now. Motor can vary depending of your track and the class you want to race. The Orion VST2 Pro's are nice as well as the Tekin Redline Gen2's
Hey there! My plastic center diff failed after rubbing on the mount for too long it broke. Went onto the website to order one but I can't make an order there aren't any buttons or places to make one. Would you know why or how I could make an order? would greatly appreciate it Thanks
Just wondering if there was a particular reason you stayed with the plastic spur? I've seen several good offerings in both aluminum and steel. I went with the Robinson Racing gen3 slipper rather than a center diff, as it is much more easily tunable for individual track conditions.
Man, you really should have done a black and red color scheme... Since the motor and is red and black. But i guess the blue looks good! Cant wait to see it run
Also upgrade with the Robinson Racing metal spur gear. Those plastic Traxxas spurs are total rubbish. Don't worry about the hardened pinions just use a quality Robinson Racing version. The alloy diff case looks the goods mate I might try one when the plastic version flogs out.
After running my new Arrma Typhon, I'm very interested in investing in a good center diff for my slash 4x4 ultimate. The stockie one is a joke, and can't run on 3s. This one look a lot beefier, and I'll bet it's up to the challenge.
Matthew Fant After having a Slash way back in 2009....I blew out stock 3 center diffs, and you're right, 3s will blow it up! FLM has it covered. This video was a while back......there could be improved ones now?
Grommet???? You mean Gasket? How is this holding up, I currently use the Hot Racing Aluminum Diff case and have not had a single issue. I do like how the FLM comes anodized.
is there a difference between the spider gears of a slash vxl, ultimate, platinum,... it does not fit in the cup has a different shape inside as the Original one. can you take a picture of the diff and the spider gears?
All Slash 4x4s use the same center diff. Being that the FLM is machined it looks different that the stock plastic, as it has square corners and the FLM has rounded. Worst case, call or send FLM an email. They're great people there.
Yup! Becuase 100k seemed like too much compared to something like 2k but yet again to me 2k sounds too thin, maybe 20k would be good or should I go with 2,5, and 7k?
I wish someone would make a set of hardened steel gears for the center diff. The Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro I’m running eats those flimsy plastic gears quickly
The RCNetwork probably so but I’m not really looking to spend that much on another sct. I’ve already sold most of my other RCs & my Slash and SCX10 are the only ones I plan on keeping
The bearing that goes on slipper clutch is the same that goes on center diff? I've tried to put, but the bearing stays tight over there, is that because the original center diff is plastic and doesn't support the heat generated by the bearing?
I've never run metal spurs.....I'd much rather replace a $4 plastic spur than a $160 motor, Transmission, driveshafts, etc. I've also never stripped a spur gear (except for the Losi Mini 8ight T - but that was the cars fault! lol)
I thought the sensor mounts on the motor mount? I though I saw that on the King headz MM as a feature. Not sure, as I havent really got into any of the telemetry stuff.
No, just one Lipo for the whole car. Unless you're running some crazy high voltage servo, you shouldn't need a BEC. Typically the worst thing you'll need is a voltage capacitor like the Spektrum or Racers Edge version (Usually $5-10)
Hey man, where do the gears for that new center diff cup come from? Is there a separate kit to by the gears or pinions from? Cause in ebay they only sell like yours a center diff housing but not the pinions in it! Thanks
To be honest, I don't watch or like running vids. When I ever do watch them, I find myself tuning out very quickly. The other reason is I'm typically by myself at the track and it's pretty hard to film and drive! Although I have gotten better if you see the Durango footage I have.
should i swap my slipperclutch to a centerdiff on a slash 4x4, i dont bash it use it only for dirt and little jumps. but does it destroy my driveshafts when i land on the ground
Changing to a center diff will make your truck more smooth and predictable in the turns. It will transfer power smoother as well (depending on the diff fluid you select). You won’t destroy your driveshafts. The skipper clutch was designed to save your motor and potentially other drivetrain.
Really nice videos !! Did you have any issues with fitting the metal center diff ? I have heard it takes a bit of dremel work to get things to fit properly ? Thanks
+SP Heli I had no issues at all. Take pics of the stock diff before you take it apart though. The milled look inside the FLM is quite different than stock
Not sure......Is your gear mesh set right? motor screws loctited? Any wobble in your center diff? Something is causing the play in the gear mesh somehow
Would you have any advice for getting the pin to fit for the sun gears. I have the front and rear diff cups from FLM and I love their stuff but my stock pin won't fit level almost like it's too long any advice would be great.
I have front and rear cups, but if I remember right, they are hot racing. I have a sidewinder 1/8 in the slash, so I went through the whole driveline. When I put the cups in, I used xo1 diffs. I still need front drive shafts, 17mm hubs, and I need to upgrade the slipper. Even on 3s and 4s it has gobs of torque.
Ron Wilson A Center Diff is a needed item for racing. It allows your car to transfer a very tunable amount of power to the front driveline and helps out a great deal on how the truck turns and corners. The weight of diff oil will tune the center diff. I def recommend the FLM Aluminum CD, as the stock TRX plastic diff wears down quick
@@TheRCNetwork never had any problems with all steel gears but my mod 1 gears are plastic on my vxl stampede modded everything rpm and lowered for speed. Its just a 3674 2650 kv with hobbywing max 10 esc running dual smc 2s 8000 mah batteries. Truck does 100 on 26/34 gearing with 8th scale grps with 17mm wheel hub adapter, -3° rear camber, J concepts High speed rustler speed body. Added weight to front. Its more than I need for speed runs. I know someone running 6s on this truck and its only 15 mph faster or so.
First off I love the videos great work man. thumbs up dude. I got a flm center diff cup for my slash 4x4 and it ran really well compared to the slipper, the only down side is that the cup out put to the drive shaft wears out fast and makes the drive shaft spin lose. I took the diff apart and found the output shaft from the diff wore out the inside of the flm diff cup. Now I will admit that im a basher not a racer,so I run a mmp and a 2400kv combo on 4s 65c lipo so I don't know if its just being over powered. I went back to my old robinson racing slipper unit for now. Can you tell me if that's normal or if maybe its not ment for high powered systems, or if I missed a step in the install. Im was trying to find a replacement flm cup on ebay and none were in stock at the time. Hope the new batch of cups are made more durable in the future for bashers like me.... So I don't know if I should try it again for my truck. Did you have any issues with yours? Thank you very much kept pumping out thoses great videos brother god bless. e.m.
The downfall of the Stock center diff is where the plastic diff housing rides on the bearing in the motor mount. Most power systems will chew up the plastic. The FLM fixes that by making it aluminum. As far as running 4s with a 2400kv motor......that might be the problem. you might be better suited with the slipper
@@TheRCNetwork thanks for the reply man. I do like bash racing you could call it. I have 3 acres of cleared land an made my own track has short grass. I just stick to the slipper it had been treating me well. The reason I asked cause my Typhon 6s runs a center diff an seems fine so was wondering if it would be ok in the slash also
@@johnnycash7803 The Arrma uses a more robust center diff - the Slash's center diff was engineered back in 2008-ish - it never had the holding power that today's brushless and lipo system can dish out. The FLM diff cup fixes an issue where the stock plastic one fails - the center diff rides on a plastic bushing and the plastic diff cup with just start melting down
The RCNetwork thanks for replying. I did manage to get it to work but I had to sand it down a little because the bar was simply too long to fit in there.
In the RC world, the most frustating thing is shock springs. I hate it when they put a dab of paint to tell which spring rate it is. The Tekno springs are the worst! as for paint, i always have to look at paint color names, but then these vendors come up with off the wall names! Other than that, I may dress funny sometimes!
Your statement doesn't make sense. Having been colorblind my whole life (found out in kindergarten when I colored the US flag blue and purple) I can see the same colors that you and ever other color seeing person sees. Colorblind-ness makes it so that I cannot determine what color it is. I see things in shades...for instance, a medium green and a light brown, if it were the same shade, look the same. I cannot see which is brown and which is green. I don't see where any type of glasses would correct the defect in my rods (on the backside of my eyes)
I always run a plastic spur. It's much quieter (I run indoors) and if something's gonna fail, I'd rather it be a $4 spur than anything else.
We have raced for 3 years with the stock center diff in 5 different race built Slash 4x4s. It's not an issue. The bearing is the real problem. Greasing it lengthens it's lifespan.
rccarerik,
If you had the 1st generation cup from FLM then this is the problem when running big power (4S) set ups. The new cup as you can see in the video has an extended neck past the bearing shoulder (like the stock plastic cup) to help control shaft wobble and then aluminum wearing out. I would suggest trying it again if you have new version and run at lest 75K to 100K in the center diff to keep the shaft speed down when it wheelie's (which is the ultimate reason it wears the aluminum out).
The first Slash I had back in 2010, I went through 2 center diffs. The bearing ate away at the plastic race on the center diff where I pointed at in the video. I have replaced the motor mount with the King Headz that has the larger bearing. The point of my Sleeper series is to point out all the issues most people had, or what i experienced the first time around
You made a great choice buying the King Headz motor mount. We use one and it's wonderful. We have had 1 ssc, 2 trce, 1 strc and one old slash with the KHz and every one uses the stock center diff with no issue. The common theme is that all of those aftermarket chassis use the same size (larger) bearing. The strc is the only one that uses the stock size and I have only ran it this year. It will probably need to be changed soon. Nice video as always RCN!
I have had the centre diff cups for a wile and it was the best thing I bought for it, I also bought the diff cups aswell and they work great to, enjoy the diff cups it will not let u down aspeicel with the king head motor mount
Ordered mine..can't wait for it to come in. Great vid!
+bigboyz12000 Nice! It will make that Slash so much better!
I didn't know you were colorblind, wow. Yes, it's a bright red, but almost orange if you put it in the light.
+That Guy With the Pointlessly Long Username That You Are Wasting Your Time Reading Right Now Yep, I assumed it was red.....
Been trying to get my diff but they've been out of stock thanks for all the great tips Rich been watching a lot of the channel it's very helpful seeing I'm pretty new to the hobby✌🏻
+Frank Santarcangelo Good deal Frank. Email them and ask when they have a new batch coming
cant wait to see this beast running at long last
I used the HR silver one. same idea similar design. I run it with a steel spur though. Don't need teeth stripping out. Mine is a beast!
Good deal, at the time, this was the only version available. I always like running a plastic spur, so there's at least one fail point vs. a more expensive component like a motor or expensive driveshafts. Take a look at the Tekno SCT410 2.0, it's a pretty decent rig and needs no mods to be a beast
I was so confused at first I was thinking the slash doesn't have a center diff lmao shows what I know I didn't know you could make the slipper clutch set up a diff, I'll keep mine slipper for bashing I don't go racing or speed runs.
Nice. I have been looking at one of those! As for Servo, Of course Savox 1258tg or if you want a tad quicker, 1257tg. If I were specing an ESC, the Orion r10 is my favorite right now. Motor can vary depending of your track and the class you want to race. The Orion VST2 Pro's are nice as well as the Tekin Redline Gen2's
Hey there! My plastic center diff failed after rubbing on the mount for too long it broke. Went onto the website to order one but I can't make an order there aren't any buttons or places to make one. Would you know why or how I could make an order? would greatly appreciate it Thanks
sweet,glad you got it.it was hard to find the link for that thing.lol
Just wondering if there was a particular reason you stayed with the plastic spur? I've seen several good offerings in both aluminum and steel. I went with the Robinson Racing gen3 slipper rather than a center diff, as it is much more easily tunable for individual track conditions.
Man, you really should have done a black and red color scheme... Since the motor and is red and black. But i guess the blue looks good! Cant wait to see it run
Yep, finally, but worth the wait!
Also upgrade with the Robinson Racing metal spur gear. Those plastic Traxxas spurs are total rubbish. Don't worry about the hardened pinions just use a quality Robinson Racing version. The alloy diff case looks the goods mate I might try one when the plastic version flogs out.
After running my new Arrma Typhon, I'm very interested in investing in a good center diff for my slash 4x4 ultimate. The stockie one is a joke, and can't run on 3s. This one look a lot beefier, and I'll bet it's up to the challenge.
Matthew Fant After having a Slash way back in 2009....I blew out stock 3 center diffs, and you're right, 3s will blow it up! FLM has it covered. This video was a while back......there could be improved ones now?
Hell yeah I liked it I don't own a slash yet but I will soon an ill be buying that dif thanks to this video 👍🏻
+Frank Santarcangelo Nice! This is a must needed upgrade for the slash 4x4 if you run the center diff
Thanks kman. The link was okay in the video description?
Yeah, I'm usually not too concerned with color vs. performance.
Grommet???? You mean Gasket? How is this holding up, I currently use the Hot Racing Aluminum Diff case and have not had a single issue. I do like how the FLM comes anodized.
I no longer have the Slash, but while I did, it did fine
Yeah, 5-7-3/2.5 is my goto set up.
It really seems like quality stuff!
Went to Proline yesterday and picked up the new pro 2 truck build. what servo, motor esc combo would you use in a 2wd.
I have the exact same diff I got from a friend but I use the slipper since I mainly bash
how did you fit the original spider gears? did you took a photo of the gears in the alu cup? please tell me how you did it. thanks
They went in just like the stock ones did. It looks a bit odd going from a plastic housing to a machined aluminum one though.
is there a difference between the spider gears of a slash vxl, ultimate, platinum,... it does not fit in the cup has a different shape inside as the Original one. can you take a picture of the diff and the spider gears?
The RCNetwork The cross pin is just slightly too long. There must be different pins???
All Slash 4x4s use the same center diff. Being that the FLM is machined it looks different that the stock plastic, as it has square corners and the FLM has rounded. Worst case, call or send FLM an email. They're great people there.
im new to this, why is a center diff better than a slipper clucth
Slipper is better for bashing...center diff better for racing.....on a track, the center diff will allow for a better power transfer and turning
Ahh ok I was thinking the slash 4x4 doesn't have a center diff lmao shows what I know
Is 100k too much for it? Becuase that is all I have :0, please reply
Breaking rc It should handle it, but will create additional heat (good thing it's made of aluminum!
Yup! Becuase 100k seemed like too much compared to something like 2k but yet again to me 2k sounds too thin, maybe 20k would be good or should I go with 2,5, and 7k?
I'll sell u one for 100k lol.
I'm going to have to research, and see if they make an aluminum center diff for a Revo 3.3.
+RakinBill FLM is the right place to start!
I wish someone would make a set of hardened steel gears for the center diff. The Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro I’m running eats those flimsy plastic gears quickly
The Tekno SCT410.3 will solve that!
The RCNetwork probably so but I’m not really looking to spend that much on another sct. I’ve already sold most of my other RCs & my Slash and SCX10 are the only ones I plan on keeping
What fluid would you recommend for the center diff? I’m going to drive in street mostly. Light dirt driving.
Maybe 50K would be a good medium for that
The bearing that goes on slipper clutch is the same that goes on center diff? I've tried to put, but the bearing stays tight over there, is that because the original center diff is plastic and doesn't support the heat generated by the bearing?
Gabriel Zanin Same bearing.....and you're right, the plastic wears down on stock
Why wouldn’t put a metal sour gear in also?
I've never run metal spurs.....I'd much rather replace a $4 plastic spur than a $160 motor, Transmission, driveshafts, etc. I've also never stripped a spur gear (except for the Losi Mini 8ight T - but that was the cars fault! lol)
I bought this, love it, only downer is i cant use my RPM Sensor, oh well.
I thought the sensor mounts on the motor mount? I though I saw that on the King headz MM as a feature. Not sure, as I havent really got into any of the telemetry stuff.
It mounts on the Normally open side of the spur gear, but with the upgrade it has the metal plate.
Are you running a separate lipo for your receiver? I'm deciding that vs a b. E. C
No, just one Lipo for the whole car. Unless you're running some crazy high voltage servo, you shouldn't need a BEC. Typically the worst thing you'll need is a voltage capacitor like the Spektrum or Racers Edge version (Usually $5-10)
Hey man, where do the gears for that new center diff cup come from? Is there a separate kit to by the gears or pinions from? Cause in ebay they only sell like yours a center diff housing but not the pinions in it! Thanks
It comes in the Traxxas Center Diff kit for the Slash 4x4: amzn.to/2oJaE0g
To be honest, I don't watch or like running vids. When I ever do watch them, I find myself tuning out very quickly. The other reason is I'm typically by myself at the track and it's pretty hard to film and drive! Although I have gotten better if you see the Durango footage I have.
should i swap my slipperclutch to a centerdiff on a slash 4x4, i dont bash it use it only for dirt and little jumps. but does it destroy my driveshafts when i land on the ground
Changing to a center diff will make your truck more smooth and predictable in the turns. It will transfer power smoother as well (depending on the diff fluid you select). You won’t destroy your driveshafts. The skipper clutch was designed to save your motor and potentially other drivetrain.
Really nice videos !! Did you have any issues with fitting the metal center diff ? I have heard it takes a bit of dremel work to get things to fit properly ? Thanks
+SP Heli I had no issues at all. Take pics of the stock diff before you take it apart though. The milled look inside the FLM is quite different than stock
Nice build man
Thanks Riley!
Why does my plastic gear always strip when racing on the dirt?
Not sure......Is your gear mesh set right? motor screws loctited? Any wobble in your center diff? Something is causing the play in the gear mesh somehow
I didn't know you were color blind Rich! It's totally red! Besides that, I enjoyed the video!
EvHexRC 1 thanks for watching!
How did you get the stock gears to fit? They are so large they stick out the top
They fit in perfect....Make sure the orientation is correct....I had to go back and check pics of the original
Can it handle a 3s. The stock can't. Also, any issues so far? I've read mixed reviews on the product.
It can handle 3s. You just got to maintenance it. Keep it clean and make sure nothing gets in there to destroy that bearing race on the FLM
Would you have any advice for getting the pin to fit for the sun gears. I have the front and rear diff cups from FLM and I love their stuff but my stock pin won't fit level almost like it's too long any advice would be great.
You could trim it down with a dremel if needed...mine fit perfect
Have you used the fast lane diff cups for the front or rear diff?
+Josh Spark man I have not.....didn't really see a need for the f/r
I have front and rear cups, but if I remember right, they are hot racing. I have a sidewinder 1/8 in the slash, so I went through the whole driveline. When I put the cups in, I used xo1 diffs. I still need front drive shafts, 17mm hubs, and I need to upgrade the slipper. Even on 3s and 4s it has gobs of torque.
Me too!
I have a slash 4x4 and i just got into racing it. How can going to a center diff help me when i race??
Ron Wilson A Center Diff is a needed item for racing. It allows your car to transfer a very tunable amount of power to the front driveline and helps out a great deal on how the truck turns and corners. The weight of diff oil will tune the center diff. I def recommend the FLM Aluminum CD, as the stock TRX plastic diff wears down quick
yep the link is good.
What colors do you see when you look at stuff? I do not mean to be rude if I sound like I am
I see the same colors you do, but I cannot determine what colors they are
Ok
How come you didn't go all steel gears?
You always want a weak part...being the plastic spur. I'd much rather replace a $4 part vs a $140 motor
@@TheRCNetwork never had any problems with all steel gears but my mod 1 gears are plastic on my vxl stampede modded everything rpm and lowered for speed. Its just a 3674 2650 kv with hobbywing max 10 esc running dual smc 2s 8000 mah batteries. Truck does 100 on 26/34 gearing with 8th scale grps with 17mm wheel hub adapter, -3° rear camber, J concepts High speed rustler speed body. Added weight to front. Its more than I need for speed runs. I know someone running 6s on this truck and its only 15 mph faster or so.
I thought so!
Thanks for the vids man , very helpful
Glad to help!
Thanks!
Why you didn't show how you did🤔
Like the videos, especially the made up words, those are cool.
Shooting video on the fly will allow that!
Thanks for watching!
First off I love the videos great work man. thumbs up dude. I got a flm center diff cup for my slash 4x4 and it ran really well compared to the slipper, the only down side is that the cup out put to the drive shaft wears out fast and makes the drive shaft spin lose. I took the diff apart and found the output shaft from the diff wore out the inside of the flm diff cup. Now I will admit that im a basher not a racer,so I run a mmp and a 2400kv combo on 4s 65c lipo so I don't know if its just being over powered. I went back to my old robinson racing slipper unit for now. Can you tell me if that's normal or if maybe its not ment for high powered systems, or if I missed a step in the install. Im was trying to find a replacement flm cup on ebay and none were in stock at the time. Hope the new batch of cups are made more durable in the future for bashers like me.... So I don't know if I should try it again for my truck. Did you have any issues with yours? Thank you very much kept pumping out thoses great videos brother god bless. e.m.
The downfall of the Stock center diff is where the plastic diff housing rides on the bearing in the motor mount. Most power systems will chew up the plastic. The FLM fixes that by making it aluminum. As far as running 4s with a 2400kv motor......that might be the problem. you might be better suited with the slipper
Also, thanks for the great comments!
Can you run this diff for bashing?
You can, but if you're just bashing, the slipper is fine.
@@TheRCNetwork thanks for the reply man. I do like bash racing you could call it. I have 3 acres of cleared land an made my own track has short grass. I just stick to the slipper it had been treating me well. The reason I asked cause my Typhon 6s runs a center diff an seems fine so was wondering if it would be ok in the slash also
@@johnnycash7803 The Arrma uses a more robust center diff - the Slash's center diff was engineered back in 2008-ish - it never had the holding power that today's brushless and lipo system can dish out. The FLM diff cup fixes an issue where the stock plastic one fails - the center diff rides on a plastic bushing and the plastic diff cup with just start melting down
@@TheRCNetwork that's what I figured the Typhon seems more robust all the way around for the most part. Thanks man
yeah, it's all the same to me!
Cool deal!
would this fit a traxxas rally?
Yes.
Great ! Thanks
+SP Heli Anytime!
HOW? HOW DOES THIS GO TOGETHER? it makes no sense, doesn’t even look like it’s designed for the same diff internals.
It just looks odd because the way it has to be machined. Once I added the gears inside, all was good
The RCNetwork thanks for replying. I did manage to get it to work but I had to sand it down a little because the bar was simply too long to fit in there.
How much is it?
+ULTiMATE TRAXXAS MAN I have that handy Video Desciption that has a link right over to FLM with pricing.....BTW, they charge $23
why dont you post racing vids.
Very cool man :o)
+BushmanofYukon Thanks BoY!
They need to invent glasses that detect color and put it into the picture for people like you! LoL!
Haha, my standard Traxxas Slash Center Differential Just melted and "exploded" xD
In the RC world, the most frustating thing is shock springs. I hate it when they put a dab of paint to tell which spring rate it is. The Tekno springs are the worst! as for paint, i always have to look at paint color names, but then these vendors come up with off the wall names! Other than that, I may dress funny sometimes!
I run 5-7-3 in my rc8t.. =)
woo hooo last part :D
red or green ..pfff who cares ,it works ,thats what is important :)
It's red
Valspar makes color blind glasses and they work. I bought a part for my girlfriend and she can now see color. Just sayin. Good video.
Your statement doesn't make sense. Having been colorblind my whole life (found out in kindergarten when I colored the US flag blue and purple) I can see the same colors that you and ever other color seeing person sees. Colorblind-ness makes it so that I cannot determine what color it is. I see things in shades...for instance, a medium green and a light brown, if it were the same shade, look the same. I cannot see which is brown and which is green. I don't see where any type of glasses would correct the defect in my rods (on the backside of my eyes)
:/
It must be frustrating to be color blind.
You are coler blind?!?!??!!
Yep! Although I can see all the colors, I can't tell what colors they are.
The RCNetwork So it's sort of dyslexia for colors? I thought color blind people see in black and white.
no, they just mix ump some colors like red and green
it's red
Thanks Trevor!