Have an '07 Highlander and have changed the t-case fluid myself, not easy, I think I was able to come down from engine compartment with a long hose and get it into the fill hole and then a small funnel on the hose to pour the new fluid in. Where there's a will there's a way, as they say!
It probably doesn't matter if it is a little low. Those spinning gears throw that thick oil all over the place inside there. Someone made a clear plastic differential cover and ran the car on a lift. It was amazing how the oil was flying around inside there. I was surprised it didn't foam up, but it stayed a liquid.
In Sept of 21 I bought a used 2013 Tundra with 110K miles and that was one of the first things I did was change the front and rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid. Just because I had no idea if the previous owner did. Glad I did. The front and transfer case fluid looked pretty clear, but the rear was almost like chocolate milk lol. Wasnt too bad. Front diff was a pain in the a$$. Should have bought a fluid transfer tank of some kind because I just ended up using a hand pump. Arms and shoulders were very sore the next day lol. But I got her done and she drives like dream👍👍
Really Inspiring. Have an 04 Tacoma with 85000 miles on it. Would love to bring it up to your shop for a full inspection as well as maybe a quote for the repairs that it would need. Runs great would love to get in touch.
I always use disposable towels to remove shavings from the magnet. This keeps shavings out of the washing machine and spreading them to regular shop towels.
I changed my transfer case and both dif fluids and did double Drain fills on A750F on 06 Tundra at 78K. My carrier bear8ng was bad which started my DIY adventures. The T.C. fluid was worst of 3, almost milky due to that vent hose rotting off at tip and some hogh water drives... Rear dif looked clear, front OK, but glad I finally began getting underneath and started all the work needed besides maintenance. At 103.5K she is smooth as a dream even though I rarely get her on Highway enough. 5-7K/months on oil changes usually max.
1. To remove the filling nut is very very easy. 1/2” ratchet or 3/8” ratchet with either 24mm or 15/16” sockets will get to the nut . I did not jack up my and use 1/2” ratchet with shallow 15/16” socket and it took off the nut right away. 2. The drain nut is a little bit challenge to me. 24mm wrench is too long and need to jack up the car to get the clearance. Wrench with shallow socket does not have enough clearance to mount on the nut. Nano socket might be work.
Always watch what you install into the transfer case per the vehicles spec. For instance, in our Suburban it uses Dexron 3, Automatic transmission fluid.
The 1MZ has a shared trans and transfer case but it was a different setup and transferred to the drive axles. It was situated above the sump for the trans in a splash lubrication scenario so if you drained the trans, old fluid would still be caught in the upper sump. Someone wise once said imagine the soap dish in your bathtub keeping fluid even if you drained the bathtub.. also it is good practice to tell the viewer to check the filler first. But I know you tease them because you have the tools to unseize or replace parts necessary at a shop situation. I always thought this was funny because you talk to the diy scenario.
Ps my favorite way to fill like that is not to need to take it out but use a hand pump and a hose that fits inside the hole. Some people have the adapter that holds the hose in place. Because there is so little room a squeeze bottle cannot fit. You would not be screwed either. You could do like I just said or even I have heard some people use a funnel with the tube and pour from the top
When I bought my 2003 Toyota Highlander V6 the brake fluid was leaking. They change the caliper. After a while it started dripping when the reservoir would get low I would add fluid. I knew it was low because the break, abs and vsc lights would come on. Eventually, they never ever shut off again and the codes I got were C1223 and C0246. I cannot get a clear answer from a mechanic or online on how to fix the problem. Can you help?
The Highlander ( I think the 2013;would be similar to the 2017-2019 ) has no front differential. Only the transfer case in the front and then the rear differential. Two places to change out the fluid. Make sure you try to remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. If the “ plug” is difficult to remove try tapping ( no hard whacks ) on the plug with a hammer. Always replace the crush washer ( I think all Highlanders use the aluminum crush washer ) on both plugs with a new one. Tongue on the plugs of a Highlander should be around 35-36 lb feet but look it up.
When you do the transmission service on this generation of Highlander with the 3.5l 2GR-FE, do you remove the pan and replace the filter or just drain and refill the fluid?
I had mine done at 100k miles. My guy doesn't want to pull it apart unless there is an issue.. the filter is not a servicable item. He drains out whatever amount he can get out of it and then replaces that exact amount with fresh fluid. You will notice a difference.
I asked the service dept assistant manager when Toyota recommends the transfer case and rear differential fluid be changed. He told me a Toyota does not have a recommendation of how many kilometres / miles to change it.
Good video. Filling is not a problem with the small hand pumps that screw onto the bottle of gear oil. I've done it twice on my 2005 Highlander.
The best in the business. Need more mechanics like you…
That man is priceless.
Have an '07 Highlander and have changed the t-case fluid myself, not easy, I think I was able to come down from engine compartment with a long hose and get it into the fill hole and then a small funnel on the hose to pour the new fluid in. Where there's a will there's a way, as they say!
Thank you Peter … I would like to see the spark plug replacement also.
Intake manifold needs to come off and might as well do a throttle body cleaning
It probably doesn't matter if it is a little low. Those spinning gears throw that thick oil all over the place inside there. Someone made a clear plastic differential cover and ran the car on a lift. It was amazing how the oil was flying around inside there. I was surprised it didn't foam up, but it stayed a liquid.
In Sept of 21 I bought a used 2013 Tundra with 110K miles and that was one of the first things I did was change the front and rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid. Just because I had no idea if the previous owner did. Glad I did. The front and transfer case fluid looked pretty clear, but the rear was almost like chocolate milk lol. Wasnt too bad. Front diff was a pain in the a$$. Should have bought a fluid transfer tank of some kind because I just ended up using a hand pump. Arms and shoulders were very sore the next day lol. But I got her done and she drives like dream👍👍
Really Inspiring. Have an 04 Tacoma with 85000 miles on it. Would love to bring it up to your shop for a full inspection as well as maybe a quote for the repairs that it would need. Runs great would love to get in touch.
Great idea, make sure the Fill plug and be removed before draining the old oil out!
We have a 2008 Highlander Limited. Our favorite vehicle...
I always use disposable towels to remove shavings from the magnet. This keeps shavings out of the washing machine and spreading them to regular shop towels.
Tundra most shops have a shop rag service that picks them up, washes them then returns them. For a home owner, definitely use disposable rag.
Many Thx
Appreciate the explanations.
Keep up the good work.
More vids please
I changed my transfer case and both dif fluids and did double Drain fills on A750F on 06 Tundra at 78K. My carrier bear8ng was bad which started my DIY adventures.
The T.C. fluid was worst of 3, almost milky due to that vent hose rotting off at tip and some hogh water drives... Rear dif looked clear, front OK, but glad I finally began getting underneath and started all the work needed besides maintenance.
At 103.5K she is smooth as a dream even though I rarely get her on Highway enough.
5-7K/months on oil changes usually max.
1. To remove the filling nut is very very easy. 1/2” ratchet or 3/8” ratchet with either 24mm or 15/16” sockets will get to the nut . I did not jack up my and use 1/2” ratchet with shallow 15/16” socket and it took off the nut right away.
2. The drain nut is a little bit challenge to me. 24mm wrench is too long and need to jack up the car to get the clearance. Wrench with shallow socket does not have enough clearance to mount on the nut. Nano socket might be work.
The oil looks rather clean actually. I have seen darker transfer case oil on Toyotas.
Excellent video good job
Great video … thank you
You could try a swarf wand to clean metal shavings off the magnet.
Always watch what you install into the transfer case per the vehicles spec. For instance, in our Suburban it uses Dexron 3, Automatic transmission fluid.
Highlanders are tough to work on underneath. Lots of no access issues. See the videos for lower control arm. Very tough job.
Let's see spark plugs in the Highlander.
No
Not fun
When replacing oil in differentials, should we fill until oil flows out of the fill port or fill the amount specified by the manufacturer?
Easy to do at home. Manual pump + flex tube does the trick
I was thinking the same thing. Harbor freight manual pump $7.49. Have you done it?
Rear differential as wel
Harbor freight hand pump is hot garbage. Even walmart sells a better one and it's only like 15 bucks.
do you have any videos servicing a 96 tacoma manual 4x4 acuator?
The 1MZ has a shared trans and transfer case but it was a different setup and transferred to the drive axles. It was situated above the sump for the trans in a splash lubrication scenario so if you drained the trans, old fluid would still be caught in the upper sump. Someone wise once said imagine the soap dish in your bathtub keeping fluid even if you drained the bathtub.. also it is good practice to tell the viewer to check the filler first. But I know you tease them because you have the tools to unseize or replace parts necessary at a shop situation. I always thought this was funny because you talk to the diy scenario.
Ps my favorite way to fill like that is not to need to take it out but use a hand pump and a hose that fits inside the hole. Some people have the adapter that holds the hose in place. Because there is so little room a squeeze bottle cannot fit. You would not be screwed either. You could do like I just said or even I have heard some people use a funnel with the tube and pour from the top
Do you remember when you had the red car on jackstands in the car port garage? I do. Many many shops ago.
When I bought my 2003 Toyota Highlander V6 the brake fluid was leaking. They change the caliper. After a while it started dripping when the reservoir would get low I would add fluid. I knew it was low because the break, abs and vsc lights would come on. Eventually, they never ever shut off again and the codes I got were C1223 and C0246. I cannot get a clear answer from a mechanic or online on how to fix the problem. Can you help?
Question what type of oil did u put on diferencial. Anything???
Not much rust on bottom. Is it from another state?
Where are you located i need maintenance on my truck lol
What that transfer case does? Is it needed for AWD or for fwd as well?
Yo
Are there a front and rear differential fluid change or only one for 2013 highlander V6? Thanks
?
The Highlander ( I think the 2013;would be similar to the 2017-2019 ) has no front differential. Only the transfer case in the front and then the rear differential. Two places to change out the fluid. Make sure you try to remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug. If the “ plug” is difficult to remove try tapping ( no hard whacks ) on the plug with a hammer. Always replace the crush washer ( I think all Highlanders use the aluminum crush washer ) on both plugs with a new one. Tongue on the plugs of a Highlander should be around 35-36 lb feet but look it up.
Is this the same procedure to drain and fill the rear differential?
Yes, but easier.
Way easier.
😉
What weight GL 5 you use?
I think me mentioned 75W90
@@paultennis9414 the GL 5 is a manufacturer specification the oil has met. What you have is the weight of the oil.
In very cold area use 80W-90, not too cold area use 85W-90.
When you do the transmission service on this generation of Highlander with the 3.5l 2GR-FE, do you remove the pan and replace the filter or just drain and refill the fluid?
I curious as well. Did you ever find an answer?
@@phillippardo5712 Both would work.
I had mine done at 100k miles. My guy doesn't want to pull it apart unless there is an issue.. the filter is not a servicable item.
He drains out whatever amount he can get out of it and then replaces that exact amount with fresh fluid.
You will notice a difference.
Sienna 2008. Same shi@y drain/fill plugs. I'm sure, for 120K miles nobody was there.
I asked the service dept assistant manager when Toyota recommends the transfer case and rear differential fluid be changed. He told me a Toyota does not have a recommendation of how many kilometres / miles to change it.