It's very rare that i search TH-cam and find a video answering and demonstrating everything i wanted to know. Thank for making this, hope you made a full recovery.
@Anthony Maurice Well if you sinew back it, it's not going to be a Hedeby style bow. You can certainly make it a longer self bow. The original was 75 inches long, you could make a longer bow, with shorter tips out of hickory that would draw to 33 inches, the bows were tillered to bend through the handle so that makes it easier to get a bow with a long draw length. I usually don't make longbows with draw lengths longer than 30 inches so not sure about guidance for how long the bow should be knock to knock, but I would guess you could do it from a 76 inch stave. You'd have to find a source for the hickory in that size, it's not hard to find hickory lumber longer than that, the trick is finding nice pieces with straight grain and cut to have few run-offs of the grain.
A draw knife with bevel up digs in, bevel down allows you to tilt blade up giving better control over depth of cut. I use it both ways, bevel up for bark and bevel down for careful wood removal. Very nice informational and instructional video.
Yes good point. Since I made this video a couple of years ago I have experimented with some different draw knives. A lot depends on the bevel angle of the blade, thickness of the blade, the angles of the attached handles, the kind of wood and the grain of the particular piece of wood. With the draw knife I used in this video, bevel up does fast cuts to remove wood quickly, bevel down removes much less wood (nice technique to start rounding, but skips when the surface becomes very flat and smooth (sharpness issue perhaps.) ). In practice now I use a different draw knife bevel down or a cabinet scraper when I want to make very careful, flat, smooth wood removal. The Swedish kindling knife I use in this video works well with the bevel down as a scraper. I use it a lot when tillering bows.
Thanks for watching, I haven't made any new videos in quite a while. I hope to post some more this Fall and Winter now I have a space again for a work shop.
I started learning archery just a few days ago and from all the videos ive found so far it's been a slow but steady learning. Thanks for your video, i'd very much like to get a norse bow myself and learn that viking style lol
Thanks for watching . I'm editing a new video now that compares this bow to a 65 pound English Long Bow of similar length for arrow speed and distance shooting..
Thankyou for this, it was very informative andalso interesting about Viking history. I also liked the minute details you showed us with the things you experimented with, resulting in a beautiful bow :-)
Very informative. Thanks for all the details. You should sharpen your spoke shave, it also helps if jou turn it 10min. In the direction you prefers, that makes the blade longer and cuts more than it pulls. Sorry if I'm confusing, not used to technical English anymore.
Agreed, good advice for what I was doing here. I think you mean "10 degrees" so it is at a slight angle. Yes and I should sharpen the blade more often than I do.
If you like this video be sure to subscribe so TH-cam keeps promotion of my primitive and traditional bow making experiments. Also as part of a TH-cam Experiment if you are clicking thumbs down can you add a comment with your age, location, and what you did not like about the video. A few of us are doing a study on youtube users and the best way to rate videos.
Thanks for watching. I did do a second part but took the video down to re-edit it. Not many views so I have not bothered to re-edit. There are two additional videos. One shows testing a linen string and another shows just shooting this bow for fun and comparison with some other hickory longbows.
Thanks for watching . I ended up only editing a little bit of the video that I shot since it's very time consuming and this video that was a lot of work did not get many views. I did not upload part 2 at all, and I uploaded half of part 3, in this video th-cam.com/video/5LB7bEz5ppw/w-d-xo.html
If you watch at around 10 minutes, all the info is there, length width at handle depth etc, the camera shows the layout for the width of the bow for every 6 inches, the measurements are in mm. The end of that sequence shows a table with the finished dimensions of the bow for width and depth. I don't have any sketches of the layout.
Do you mean Part II? Yes I'm sorry I started editing Part II and life got in the way. It was pretty boring in my opinion. Richard Head has great videos on tillering. There is however a subsequent video on testing my Hedeby bow prototype with Dacron and authentic linen bow strings if you search my chanel. I have about 6 new videos on different bows i've made this year I have not edited yet, and a series on what bows might have been like in Iceland during the settlement/viking ages from video I shot this summer in Iceland. Editing is very time consuming and no payback except my own interest and just when I get motivated somebody thumbs down a video I spent hours working on.
It's very rare that i search TH-cam and find a video answering and demonstrating everything i wanted to know. Thank for making this, hope you made a full recovery.
Thanks for watching.
@Anthony Maurice Well if you sinew back it, it's not going to be a Hedeby style bow. You can certainly make it a longer self bow. The original was 75 inches long, you could make a longer bow, with shorter tips out of hickory that would draw to 33 inches, the bows were tillered to bend through the handle so that makes it easier to get a bow with a long draw length. I usually don't make longbows with draw lengths longer than 30 inches so not sure about guidance for how long the bow should be knock to knock, but I would guess you could do it from a 76 inch stave. You'd have to find a source for the hickory in that size, it's not hard to find hickory lumber longer than that, the trick is finding nice pieces with straight grain and cut to have few run-offs of the grain.
A draw knife with bevel up digs in, bevel down allows you to tilt blade up giving better control over depth of cut. I use it both ways, bevel up for bark and bevel down for careful wood removal. Very nice informational and instructional video.
Yes good point. Since I made this video a couple of years ago I have experimented with some different draw knives. A lot depends on the bevel angle of the blade, thickness of the blade, the angles of the attached handles, the kind of wood and the grain of the particular piece of wood. With the draw knife I used in this video, bevel up does fast cuts to remove wood quickly, bevel down removes much less wood (nice technique to start rounding, but skips when the surface becomes very flat and smooth (sharpness issue perhaps.) ). In practice now I use a different draw knife bevel down or a cabinet scraper when I want to make very careful, flat, smooth wood removal. The Swedish kindling knife I use in this video works well with the bevel down as a scraper. I use it a lot when tillering bows.
You shouldn't have to apologize for anything man. Keep it up
That was incredibly informative. I am infatuated with the viking Era. Wonderful bow sir. Great video 🎯
Thanks for watching.....
This is an extremely informative and well made video. Thank you so much, I learned a lot 😊
Thanks for watching, I haven't made any new videos in quite a while. I hope to post some more this Fall and Winter now I have a space again for a work shop.
@@SeadartVSG Of course, like I said, I learned a lot so thank you. I’m looking forward to any new videos you do post if that’s the case 😊
I started learning archery just a few days ago and from all the videos ive found so far it's been a slow but steady learning. Thanks for your video, i'd very much like to get a norse bow myself and learn that viking style lol
I am new to your channel. I love how well you explain everything in your videos. Well done. I look forward to more of your videos
Thanks for watching.
Im building this bow currently. My first bow was made with just a mora carving knife, a card scraper made from a saw blade and a rasp.
Beautiful bow !
Thank you, excellent document. Congratulations.
And I hope you get well soon.
Thanks for watching . I'm editing a new video now that compares this bow to a 65 pound English Long Bow of similar length for arrow speed and distance shooting..
Thankyou for this, it was very informative andalso interesting about Viking history. I also liked the minute details you showed us with the things you experimented with, resulting in a beautiful bow :-)
Thanks for watching .
Awesome bow! Great video
Thanks for the visit
amazing video!
Thanks for watching. d
I would like to see the next parts.
hope to have them done in the next couple of weeks, I don't have very good video software so it's pretty time consuming putting the video together.
Very informative.
Thanks for all the details.
You should sharpen your spoke shave, it also helps if jou turn it 10min. In the direction you prefers, that makes the blade longer and cuts more than it pulls. Sorry if I'm confusing, not used to technical English anymore.
Agreed, good advice for what I was doing here. I think you mean "10 degrees" so it is at a slight angle. Yes and I should sharpen the blade more often than I do.
@@SeadartVSG love the passion and detail in the video, keep enjoying this great hobby and keep making this videos, I will watch em!
If you like this video be sure to subscribe so TH-cam keeps promotion of my primitive and traditional bow making experiments. Also as part of a TH-cam Experiment if you are clicking thumbs down can you add a comment with your age, location, and what you did not like about the video. A few of us are doing a study on youtube users and the best way to rate videos.
good video sir
Thanks for watching, if you want to see some more viking era, medieval bows, and Native American bow experiments, be sure to subscribe.
good movie. thank yew.
Thanks for watching Gary.
Will you be doing the second and third parts? I want to make such a bow myself.
Thanks for watching. I did do a second part but took the video down to re-edit it. Not many views so I have not bothered to re-edit. There are two additional videos. One shows testing a linen string and another shows just shooting this bow for fun and comparison with some other hickory longbows.
Where is part 2?
Thanks for watching . I ended up only editing a little bit of the video that I shot since it's very time consuming and this video that was a lot of work did not get many views. I did not upload part 2 at all, and I uploaded half of part 3, in this video th-cam.com/video/5LB7bEz5ppw/w-d-xo.html
Sure I know this is an older video but do you have any sketches of the bow layout?
If you watch at around 10 minutes, all the info is there, length width at handle depth etc, the camera shows the layout for the width of the bow for every 6 inches, the measurements are in mm. The end of that sequence shows a table with the finished dimensions of the bow for width and depth. I don't have any sketches of the layout.
Pat 2?
Do you mean Part II? Yes I'm sorry I started editing Part II and life got in the way. It was pretty boring in my opinion. Richard Head has great videos on tillering. There is however a subsequent video on testing my Hedeby bow prototype with Dacron and authentic linen bow strings if you search my chanel. I have about 6 new videos on different bows i've made this year I have not edited yet, and a series on what bows might have been like in Iceland during the settlement/viking ages from video I shot this summer in Iceland. Editing is very time consuming and no payback except my own interest and just when I get motivated somebody thumbs down a video I spent hours working on.