These are old links, but I would recommend the Ender 3 V3 SE, or the KE. They are both cheap and really easy to use right out of the box@@Mobsterthelobster-y6s
Hey what If I want to make big things with a small price it’s my B-day on 19th June so getting close and I want a 3D printer got any ideas on Amazon? If not don’t Worry
@@Minty_vr007 I think Elegoo has some of the best cheap big printers. I have the Neptune 3 max and it is huge for the price, maybe even too big for most people because of the space required
Torture toaster is an absolutely model. I don’t know how that caught on. The design itself is just so poor. The toast doesn’t come out straight and it’s always floppy. All I needed was one guide Support. and then the fact that he put all the holes everywhere that actually increases the print time. And in general just takes forever to print and it uses way, way, way too much filament for its size.
I just started 3d printing, and sometimes my prints looks like the second cube, but I have absolutely no idea how to calibrate it right 😅 (I use Cura slicer) can you maybe show some settings for a good print 😅
When it comes down to the default configs from cura most of the changing you will be starting with will be printer side. Making sure the belts, screw, and attachments are tight but not to tight. Properly leveling your bed and getting the right z leveling. Measuring and getting the extruder motor is tuned right so its ejecting as much filament as it needs to be. Make sure you have all of those things down first before you get to messing with retractions and all the extra stuff that comes with your 3d printing slicing software. The physical and printer software is much more important at the start. Just look up as much info online about working your printer model and issues they have and what to take notice of. Learning from the community will be your biggest help and that will come with time. No one person has a video or article for every 3d printing problem you will encounter. Get out there and learn, think, and have fun!
I'm planning on a series to help with calibration, but if your cube is turning out like the second one. I would start with retractions and speeds. A retraction tower is most accurate way to calibrate that. The speed could also be too fast for your extruder to push plastic. So either slowing down the print or making sure the gears are tight enough gripping onto the filament as it passes through can help.
Honestly print a benchy. That will show alot of your issues thats what im doing to dial my printer in. I bought some silicone dampeners for it too so it stays level for once im tired of leveling my printer every single time i use it
Ahh yes thanks to your video I now know the calibration needs calibrating so I’ll just calibrate the hell out of it. Gonna do some crazy calibration up in here which I definitely know how to do. Thanks again for your priceless advice.
For any new plastic, I do the following: 1) Linear/pressure advance test (with some coarse tuning of retraction over the course of printing, thanks Klipper and FW retraction). 2) A retraction test (often coupled with the temperature fine tuning). 3) A flow multiplier test (a 20x20 mm box with two perimeters of a known width is sufficient). It all takes less than an hour and provides all data needed to really fine tune the printer. *For a new brand of low-temperature plastics like PLA or TPU I also sometimes run a simple overhangs test and bridging test. For crystalline non-composite plastics like ABS or Nylon, I also run a fast, but accurate shrinking test (a 1.2-1.5 mm high and 10 mm wide L-shaped ribbon with 150x150 mm XY dimentions so it fits my calipers). For the initial setup of a new printer or some major hardware change, after running tests 1-3 and dialing in acquired optima, I also run an acceleration "curvy box" test (or an accelerometer-assisted resonance test in case of Klipper) to dial in optimal acceleration values.
This is all good advice. I personally recommend a variety of torture tests, but especially single parameter tests. If you have a terrible looking benchy, it can be hard to figure out where to start. But if you try a couple of specialized tests, like an overhang test, bridging test, stringing test, etc. you can isolate issues and correct them immediately.
The “straight overhangs” you highlighted are typically known as “bridges” rather than actual overhangs, since they bridge to parts together, vs overhanging from one part but not connecting to another. I think that’s an important distinction to understanding slicer settings because most use that terminology.
The speed 3D printing advanced for at home printing just blows my mind. Who would of guessed this 20 years ago? I might of thought the tech would be there, but also that it'd be so expensive, it'd only be realistic for big companies to own and operate the things.
benchy!! cool! and functional! yey. i just started LEARNING about 3D printing (and i mean JUST--- its still gonna be a good long while before i ever may get to print something myself/own a printer) and I have recently watched a whole buncha TH-cam videos (your content is great-ty!!) and followed a whole buncha peeps on other socials that post, well, whole buncha prints n info n stuffs.... and man.... i seriously kept seeing that lil boat and kept wondering WTH was with it & what significance it could possibly have!! haha 🤦♀️ now i know 😎 ...and feel like i learned the secret password to the club . heh. double 😎😎 thanks !
the problem is even though you see problems there's no information that tells you specifically how to adjust the settings to eliminate the "issues" on your print.
Actually, there is one. Simplify3d has a "Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide" which gives you a chart with pictures of many different issues and has a page for each to tell you what causes it and how to fix it (including settings adjustments).. It's honestly pretty awesome, imo. I wish I knew of something like this for Resin printing. If anyone knows of such, please share.
@@TechnoBabble Thanks captain obvious, like people don't know that's how simple it should be? and where exactly in *the manufactures documentation* should one read? Oh right, there isn't any that provides answers to those questions. Go troll some place else 🤡
@@TechnoBabble Did you fall on your head genius? Did your printer come with documentation that explains how to resolve the "issues" Did you buy a printer to read? Did your printer tell you where to go and read? No? With a little help with your reading comprehension from someone with you might better understand the points being made, but probably not.
@@dosdont HAHAHA, you're so mad that you wrote a whole rant, deleted it, and then wrote another one. Plenty of hobbyist devices don't have mountains of manufacturer provided troubleshooting/tuning instructions. You're arguing that you shouldn't have to do any research to use a fairly new technology in the consumer space that has essentially no day to day use for the average person. Oh, and a bunch of 3D printer manufacturers DO provide a bunch of pages are guides. If you can't look something up online then you probably don't have the technical capabilities to properly operate a 3D printer.
@@JJShankles I just found your channel this last week and I’ve been binging it, It’s great inspiration! Definitely leagues ahead of my videos! Thanks for just being awesome
😂I got my second 3D print which is a Bambu a1, and didn’t do any benchmark testing before printing my model. Back to 2 years ago, when I got my ender3, calibration took me 1 week.😂
When I was 8 I swam into a huge island of trash on the sea surface and came out with one of those boats. It was so precious to me back then and I still keep the boat
After using filament 3D printers and switching to resin print, the resin prints win hands down. The only downside is that it can be messy to print if you’re not careful and the wash and cure part is sometimes annoying but over all still much easier to use than a filament printer hands down. The best part is you get prints without lines!
Retractions can be the fix for spider web stringing. Try increasing your retraction distance, or using some decent filament. I find the cheapest filament that comes bundled in with a printer can cause the worst stringing, while a decent $15 - $20 spool prints perfectly with the same settings.
There's something to be said for the claims that you should never print a calibration cube but instead fill the print volume (or a significant portion) with a triaxial indicator. There's also some merit to those who say to measure the axial steps before you print any axial calibration test so that you know that any wrong dimensions aren't from the motion system.
The cube is good but is we add add something for the blank faces we can use it as dice. It self could be cool if the printing test form a aditive board game.
It's the worst when you get half way through a large part and you forgot to do your maintenance and the bastard under extrudes haha... Prep first print second don't get too excited 😆
Not really related, but as im watching this im printing an air duct of sorts for a custom battery pack... there is a curved surface with an overhang and as i was watching it print i thought i forgot supports but it turns out then ender3s1plus is just a beast with bridging. I just watched it bridge about an inch with precision as i expected it to fail. No point to this, just a remarkable bridging acomplishment that i wasnt expecting lol.
Has nobody made a calibration thing that nice to a have a lot of? Sure, that boat is nice, but what about a slowly growing collection of fancy puzzle pieces that slot together?
I have a Ender 3 S1 and all my corners over extrude. I'm using Cura slicer and I would like some help from someone to calibrate that. Really annoying whenever I'm trying to make parts that need to be precise. Have a great day!
As a new 3D printer person. How the heck do I calibrate slicer settings for prints? Also do I need to calibrate slicer settings if I download the designs from websites? I am still learning how to create prints to begin with. It’s a bit challenging
🔥My Favorite Starter 3D Printer: amzn.to/3hMi2r2
Favorite Mid-sized 3D Printer: amzn.to/3Eq9KNa
🌈FAVORITE PLA Filament: amzn.to/3VNqTIc
📂STL Links: www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy
www.printables.com/model/118657-calibration-cube
www.printables.com/model/209121-cali-dragon
What’s the starter 3-D printer called
These are old links, but I would recommend the Ender 3 V3 SE, or the KE.
They are both cheap and really easy to use right out of the box@@Mobsterthelobster-y6s
@@JJShankles thanks
Hey what If I want to make big things with a small price it’s my B-day on 19th June so getting close and I want a 3D printer got any ideas on Amazon? If not don’t Worry
@@Minty_vr007 I think Elegoo has some of the best cheap big printers. I have the Neptune 3 max and it is huge for the price, maybe even too big for most people because of the space required
You forgot to mention the torture toaster
That will be the next video
That's so much filament and time though
It's a good test, but it's way too big of a print for just a test. Torture toaster is more of a flex than anything
@@BillBard don’t calibrate using the toaster immediately, work your way up. Basically, check your calibrations one last time with the toaster.
Torture toaster is an absolutely model. I don’t know how that caught on. The design itself is just so poor. The toast doesn’t come out straight and it’s always floppy. All I needed was one guide Support. and then the fact that he put all the holes everywhere that actually increases the print time. And in general just takes forever to print and it uses way, way, way too much filament for its size.
I honestly love how the 3D Benchy incorporates so many stress tests into a simple little boat model. Some great design engineering there!
This is great advice as long as the calibration devices come with instructions on how to fix the issues they highlighted.
I just started 3d printing, and sometimes my prints looks like the second cube, but I have absolutely no idea how to calibrate it right 😅 (I use Cura slicer) can you maybe show some settings for a good print 😅
When it comes down to the default configs from cura most of the changing you will be starting with will be printer side. Making sure the belts, screw, and attachments are tight but not to tight. Properly leveling your bed and getting the right z leveling. Measuring and getting the extruder motor is tuned right so its ejecting as much filament as it needs to be. Make sure you have all of those things down first before you get to messing with retractions and all the extra stuff that comes with your 3d printing slicing software. The physical and printer software is much more important at the start. Just look up as much info online about working your printer model and issues they have and what to take notice of. Learning from the community will be your biggest help and that will come with time. No one person has a video or article for every 3d printing problem you will encounter. Get out there and learn, think, and have fun!
I'm planning on a series to help with calibration, but if your cube is turning out like the second one. I would start with retractions and speeds. A retraction tower is most accurate way to calibrate that.
The speed could also be too fast for your extruder to push plastic. So either slowing down the print or making sure the gears are tight enough gripping onto the filament as it passes through can help.
Honestly print a benchy. That will show alot of your issues thats what im doing to dial my printer in. I bought some silicone dampeners for it too so it stays level for once im tired of leveling my printer every single time i use it
Dude, it's really not that hard
@@Aweoe dude’s just getting started. Be nice, you weren’t born an expert in 3D printing either.
Ahh yes thanks to your video I now know the calibration needs calibrating so I’ll just calibrate the hell out of it. Gonna do some crazy calibration up in here which I definitely know how to do. Thanks again for your priceless advice.
Do u know rn
For any new plastic, I do the following:
1) Linear/pressure advance test (with some coarse tuning of retraction over the course of printing, thanks Klipper and FW retraction).
2) A retraction test (often coupled with the temperature fine tuning).
3) A flow multiplier test (a 20x20 mm box with two perimeters of a known width is sufficient).
It all takes less than an hour and provides all data needed to really fine tune the printer.
*For a new brand of low-temperature plastics like PLA or TPU I also sometimes run a simple overhangs test and bridging test. For crystalline non-composite plastics like ABS or Nylon, I also run a fast, but accurate shrinking test (a 1.2-1.5 mm high and 10 mm wide L-shaped ribbon with 150x150 mm XY dimentions so it fits my calipers).
For the initial setup of a new printer or some major hardware change, after running tests 1-3 and dialing in acquired optima, I also run an acceleration "curvy box" test (or an accelerometer-assisted resonance test in case of Klipper) to dial in optimal acceleration values.
This is all good advice. I personally recommend a variety of torture tests, but especially single parameter tests.
If you have a terrible looking benchy, it can be hard to figure out where to start. But if you try a couple of specialized tests, like an overhang test, bridging test, stringing test, etc. you can isolate issues and correct them immediately.
Finally, a 3D printing channel that shows ways to better your prints. Rather than just, "Look at the thing I made!". Great work, dude. Keep it up! 👍
Im in love with that small boats 🛥️!
The “straight overhangs” you highlighted are typically known as “bridges” rather than actual overhangs, since they bridge to parts together, vs overhanging from one part but not connecting to another. I think that’s an important distinction to understanding slicer settings because most use that terminology.
Community: Please tell me if I’m wrong on this or if there is any further nuance.
Not owning a 3D printer, I see this as an ABSOLUTE WIN!
The speed 3D printing advanced for at home printing just blows my mind.
Who would of guessed this 20 years ago? I might of thought the tech would be there, but also that it'd be so expensive, it'd only be realistic for big companies to own and operate the things.
These links were super helpful! Just started my 3D print journey today!
A printer at my school has a small turtle one you snap together. I love it.
benchy!!
cool! and functional! yey.
i just started LEARNING about 3D printing (and i mean JUST--- its still gonna be a good long while before i ever may get to print something myself/own a printer) and I have recently watched a whole buncha TH-cam videos (your content is great-ty!!) and followed a whole buncha peeps on other socials that post, well, whole buncha prints n info n stuffs....
and man.... i seriously kept seeing that lil boat and kept wondering WTH was with it & what significance it could possibly have!!
haha 🤦♀️
now i know 😎
...and feel like i learned the secret password to the club . heh. double 😎😎
thanks !
the problem is even though you see problems there's no information that tells you specifically how to adjust the settings to eliminate the "issues" on your print.
Actually, there is one.
Simplify3d has a "Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide" which gives you a chart with pictures of many different issues and has a page for each to tell you what causes it and how to fix it (including settings adjustments)..
It's honestly pretty awesome, imo.
I wish I knew of something like this for Resin printing. If anyone knows of such, please share.
So you look up the issue you're having and you read...
@@TechnoBabble Thanks captain obvious, like people don't know that's how simple it should be? and where exactly in *the manufactures documentation* should one read? Oh right, there isn't any that provides answers to those questions. Go troll some place else 🤡
@@TechnoBabble Did you fall on your head genius? Did your printer come with documentation that explains how to resolve the "issues" Did you buy a printer to read? Did your printer tell you where to go and read? No? With a little help with your reading comprehension from someone with you might better understand the points being made, but probably not.
@@dosdont HAHAHA, you're so mad that you wrote a whole rant, deleted it, and then wrote another one.
Plenty of hobbyist devices don't have mountains of manufacturer provided troubleshooting/tuning instructions. You're arguing that you shouldn't have to do any research to use a fairly new technology in the consumer space that has essentially no day to day use for the average person.
Oh, and a bunch of 3D printer manufacturers DO provide a bunch of pages are guides. If you can't look something up online then you probably don't have the technical capabilities to properly operate a 3D printer.
Great video highlighting calibration! Sending love to all you 3D printing nerds out there like me!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
@@JJShankles I just found your channel this last week and I’ve been binging it, It’s great inspiration! Definitely leagues ahead of my videos! Thanks for just being awesome
the first calibration cube looks CLEAN AF
Thank you me and my dad are trying to put together the 3-D printer my parents got me Christmas and this would really help out
“Now your printer can tackle larger prints”
Kink in the Z screw: “allow me to introduce my self”
I prefer the benchy with benchy infill
It would be great to talk about the printer settings that were changed from the print issues.
Thanks for the tip, I have recently gotten a 3D printer, so I’ll have to try this out!
Thank you for posting this video. I’m doing so much testing now😂
For me who will probably never get a 3d printer I personally like the toaster evaluation
That cube and boat look cool for if I ever get one of these
The tea pot is useful too
I tested my 3d printer YESTERDAY AND NOW THIS SHOWS UP
Dont forget the torture toaster, while larger than your average benchie its still a good one
Personally I think the calibration toaster is the best for testing
"Can it wait a moment Shepard? I need to do some calibrations."
Use calibration cubes for identifying issues, but definitely do not use it for fixing issues. Especially dimensional accuracy.
The first thing I printed ages ago when I got my printer was a mando helmet it worked well
we all know you need to print the benchy first, then cal cube, its tradition!
One of my he best ones is the toaster. It mainly tests spacing and angle.
And it takes hours to print and uses half a real filament. It’s an awful thing to test with and the guy who designed it is a terrible designer.
You can also look up settings for your machine btw
Thank you for this information, now if only I could afford a 3D printer
Feels good
I'll have to keep this in mind, Also nice Tech helmet
A lot of the calibration models are good for the ones that print in lines but I have a resin printer and it does completely fine with smooth walls
Thats why i went with resin 3d printing, its so much better in terms of setup
I would love having a bunch of tiny dragons around my house
😂I got my second 3D print which is a Bambu a1, and didn’t do any benchmark testing before printing my model. Back to 2 years ago, when I got my ender3, calibration took me 1 week.😂
3d printer calibration has changed a lot in the past few years!
I really want a 3d printer with auto calibration
Hopefully some day they all will be that good!
When I was 8 I swam into a huge island of trash on the sea surface and came out with one of those boats. It was so precious to me back then and I still keep the boat
One of the preloaded calibration models on mine was a phone holder.
Thx bro.
Thank you! I did none of these...
Idk why this got recommended, i've had my printer for two years.
After using filament 3D printers and switching to resin print, the resin prints win hands down. The only downside is that it can be messy to print if you’re not careful and the wash and cure part is sometimes annoying but over all still much easier to use than a filament printer hands down. The best part is you get prints without lines!
Bruh right now my benchy has so much stringing it looks like it was taken over by spider webs :/
Retractions can be the fix for spider web stringing. Try increasing your retraction distance, or using some decent filament. I find the cheapest filament that comes bundled in with a printer can cause the worst stringing, while a decent $15 - $20 spool prints perfectly with the same settings.
The first test should be the temperature tower. At what temperature will you print the cube?
There's something to be said for the claims that you should never print a calibration cube but instead fill the print volume (or a significant portion) with a triaxial indicator. There's also some merit to those who say to measure the axial steps before you print any axial calibration test so that you know that any wrong dimensions aren't from the motion system.
That was helpful . Thanks
There is also the teamster to check mechanics
I love sloaps
That is the case In the Bambu ads
Love this
The calibration cube is meant to be measured after it's printed it's supposed to be exactly 20.0 mm on all sides
Oh hey tech's helmet. I'm sanding one of those
I've got so much sanding to do!!
I just printed the cool geometric vase at the end of this video.
That's one of my favorites!
The cube is good but is we add add something for the blank faces we can use it as dice.
It self could be cool if the printing test form a aditive board game.
Don't forget the torture toaster!
I printed the vase at the end, can't find the STL for the life of me now.
It's the worst when you get half way through a large part and you forgot to do your maintenance and the bastard under extrudes haha... Prep first print second don't get too excited 😆
Calibration cube is for MESUREMENT accuracy, if your print can actually print 20x20x20 mm cube accurately, not for "strait lines and corners".
Not really related, but as im watching this im printing an air duct of sorts for a custom battery pack... there is a curved surface with an overhang and as i was watching it print i thought i forgot supports but it turns out then ender3s1plus is just a beast with bridging. I just watched it bridge about an inch with precision as i expected it to fail. No point to this, just a remarkable bridging acomplishment that i wasnt expecting lol.
We had a beckoning cat that had a lot of details in the hair and writing for our calibration
Cube told me I had a loose z axis. First print and saved me from breaking my new printer.
The best sentence "STL in description"
I like to think that there’s just a room filled with tiny boats in his house
A bad benchy that don’t need no man
Has nobody made a calibration thing that nice to a have a lot of? Sure, that boat is nice, but what about a slowly growing collection of fancy puzzle pieces that slot together?
Funny, when I got my very first printer, my very forst print was printing a life size accurate lightsaber that tool over 17 hours to print
torture toasters are good for testing as well
My favorite has to be the toaster
lol I need to adjust my settings then, my first print was a calibration cube and it took an hour and a half. It came out great tho
I have a Ender 3 S1 and all my corners over extrude. I'm using Cura slicer and I would like some help from someone to calibrate that. Really annoying whenever I'm trying to make parts that need to be precise. Have a great day!
There is also Cali Cat!
I use the rocktopus.
Thanks!
is that boat like the teapot of 3d printing or something I see it everywhere
The problem with benchys is how much time it took to find a bency that wasn't a remix
The great question of course is: which setting do I have to change with which issue?
I got a 3d printer for Christmas, and I vow to never print a benchy lol
Me, watching these videos like I could afford a 3D peinter ever: interesting
I haven’t been printing any of that and mine is perfectly fine I’m ready to make a storm trooper helment 💀
As a new 3D printer person. How the heck do I calibrate slicer settings for prints? Also do I need to calibrate slicer settings if I download the designs from websites?
I am still learning how to create prints to begin with. It’s a bit challenging
Replying to "what will you print" fursuit head base :3 also this was very useful!
A true 3d printer such as myself knows the reprogram that dammmmmm eprom chip
Damn those dragons look so messy
All i need is a d20 calibration model and I'm going out buying a printer rn...
You mean it does dice!
Man I wish I could afford a 3D printer! That would be cool to make stuff.
Amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Me waching this trying to figure out how to around this just so I can make a small dragon
in the future they will find billions if calibration cubes and see them as the letter blocks we played with as babies.
Bambulab -> Hold my Beer 🍺
Disclaimer: Do *NOT* calibrate _dimension_ with the calibration cube. (it will introduce more error for anything other than a 2cm cube)
Calibration cubes don't work too well for adjusting settings because of the chance its just the plastic pushing out to the sides
The amount of plastic in landfills since the rise of 3d printing has got to be staggering