Another informative lesson, particularly about leaving tricky bits until tomorrow, if it is the end of a day, so you tackle the tricky task with a fresh mind. I put a thin rectangle of adhesive rubber around the receiver hole on top of the windscreen aluminium, so the roof pins didn't mark the metal when I put the roof up and down. Didn't replace or remove the receiver plate, so don't know what was under it, but suspect their was nothing between the surfaces. Not really ideal sadly.
Great videos, great project! You guys do nice work. Watching your series is better than anything on Netflix. FYI this windshield video seems to be missing from your playlist.
I spend much more time following people's real builds on TH-cam than watching Netflix. Seemed only fair to document our own! Good catch on the playlist omission! Thank you! Thanks for watching! So glad you enjoy it!
I enjoy your vids. I did not see you using any sealant? From the factory it came with a Butyl tape between every seal and what it should seal to. Also between the frame and cap right along the rivet line. If you don't you will have wet feet! You may be able to get the windscreen into the frame further with some pressure applied using a rope hooked on the back of the frame and 2-3" wide boards to spread the force. The new caps are quite different but with a mallet over a wood buck you can finesse it to be close enough to get the snap drilled. If you have new rear surround capping, you will encounter the same issues! Greg in MN.
Good to know on the butyl tape. There is a lot of conflicting information out there. We went without since we don't expect the car to see much rain. Thanks for the tip on the cap! Cool to hear from a nearby TR owner. We are in South Dakota!
Just out walking the dog and recalled how there was always a fuel smell from the front and rear of my TR6. There are so many small gaps from the engine bay, that's is probably hard to eliminate all fumes into the cabin from there.. In a TR6 the fuel smell also comes from the rear. Yo haven't shown us how you will seal the cabin from the fuel tank, but if you do the standard TR6 fitting, it will be plywood or Masonite panel, covered by vinyl to match the interior doors and seats. By all means fit that, but before you fit that perhaps shape a metal or aluminium panel and silicone it into place in the cabin in front of the petrol tank, with screws fastener to ensure it stays where you position it. Then screw the vinyl panel over the top of it There was never any need to access the boot from the inside of the cabin, for me, so creating an impervious semi permanent seal is a good thing and fumes won't come in from there. That is particularly important if you have the windows up when it is cold and or raining and there is limited fresh air. Just a thought that will hopefully make your travels more enjoyable.😉
Excellent idea - definitely would not have thought about that until it was too late! I believe our TR4 had a Masonite panel covered in vinyl before we removed it. I wonder if some plastic sheeting could be used to seal this off, similar to the sheeting used on the doors? Although a custom aluminium panel does sound pretty cool!
Wegs Garage Think between you and your dad you will come up with a clever solution. Think any plastic sheet would need to be solid (ie not film like) to ensure silicon sealed the two surfaces like a window and be able to then be secured in place.
Hi guys, great video. When I removed my windscreen cap (on a Spitfire, but they're the same as the TR4), there was a seam of mastic under there. You can still get it in a caulking tube (by name, anyway), but I'm not sure if it's the same type of stuff that they used way back in the 60's. I'm not to that point yet in my restoration, but I intended to use something similar (or even weatherstripping) between the cap and the windscreen frame. I don't know what that'll do with the gap that you are concerned with, but for what it's worth...
Thanks Chris! We are leaning toward using foam weatherstrip so it's good to hear you are considering something similar. I kinda hate to use something like mastic as it is such a mess if we ever have to remove it.
Awesome video's my friend. I have learnt so much from you and your dad over this series. I am working with an owner currently to purchase his 1962 TR4, he's been very generous with sending pictures etc. I hope to have it mid summer this year. I would love to try a road trip out to your area ... how far is SD from Toronto? :-)
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Ugh that chrome trim was BRUTAL to install on my TR6. My thumbs still haven’t recovered.
Another informative lesson, particularly about leaving tricky bits until tomorrow,
if it is the end of a day, so you tackle the tricky task with a fresh mind.
I put a thin rectangle of adhesive rubber around the receiver hole on top of the windscreen aluminium, so the roof pins didn't mark the metal when I put the roof up and down. Didn't replace or remove the receiver plate, so don't know what was under it, but suspect their was nothing between the surfaces. Not really ideal sadly.
Cool idea for protecting the cap. Will have to use it. Thanks for watching!
Great videos, great project! You guys do nice work. Watching your series is better than anything on Netflix. FYI this windshield video seems to be missing from your playlist.
I spend much more time following people's real builds on TH-cam than watching Netflix. Seemed only fair to document our own! Good catch on the playlist omission! Thank you! Thanks for watching! So glad you enjoy it!
I enjoy your vids. I did not see you using any sealant? From the factory it came with a Butyl tape between every seal and what it should seal to. Also between the frame and cap right along the rivet line. If you don't you will have wet feet! You may be able to get the windscreen into the frame further with some pressure applied using a rope hooked on the back of the frame and 2-3" wide boards to spread the force. The new caps are quite different but with a mallet over a wood buck you can finesse it to be close enough to get the snap drilled. If you have new rear surround capping, you will encounter the same issues! Greg in MN.
Good to know on the butyl tape. There is a lot of conflicting information out there. We went without since we don't expect the car to see much rain. Thanks for the tip on the cap!
Cool to hear from a nearby TR owner. We are in South Dakota!
Excellent work
Looking Good!!!
Want see how you trim windshield/frame gasket. I used two hood release cables in parallel. Like your thru the firewall lever though!
Just out walking the dog and recalled how there was always a fuel smell from the front and rear of my TR6.
There are so many small gaps from the engine bay, that's is probably hard to eliminate all fumes into the cabin from there..
In a TR6 the fuel smell also comes from the rear.
Yo haven't shown us how you will seal the cabin from the fuel tank, but if you do the standard TR6 fitting, it will be plywood or Masonite panel, covered by vinyl to match the interior doors and seats.
By all means fit that, but before you fit that perhaps shape a metal or aluminium panel and silicone it into place in the cabin in front of the petrol tank, with screws fastener to ensure it stays where you position it.
Then screw the vinyl panel over the top of it
There was never any need to access the boot from the inside of the cabin, for me, so creating an impervious semi permanent seal is a good thing and fumes won't come in from there.
That is particularly important if you have the windows up when it is cold and or raining and there is limited fresh air.
Just a thought that will hopefully make your travels more enjoyable.😉
Excellent idea - definitely would not have thought about that until it was too late! I believe our TR4 had a Masonite panel covered in vinyl before we removed it. I wonder if some plastic sheeting could be used to seal this off, similar to the sheeting used on the doors? Although a custom aluminium panel does sound pretty cool!
Wegs Garage Think between you and your dad you will come up with a clever solution.
Think any plastic sheet would need to be solid (ie not film like) to ensure silicon sealed the two surfaces like a window and be able to then be secured in place.
Hi guys, great video. When I removed my windscreen cap (on a Spitfire, but they're the same as the TR4), there was a seam of mastic under there. You can still get it in a caulking tube (by name, anyway), but I'm not sure if it's the same type of stuff that they used way back in the 60's. I'm not to that point yet in my restoration, but I intended to use something similar (or even weatherstripping) between the cap and the windscreen frame. I don't know what that'll do with the gap that you are concerned with, but for what it's worth...
Thanks Chris! We are leaning toward using foam weatherstrip so it's good to hear you are considering something similar. I kinda hate to use something like mastic as it is such a mess if we ever have to remove it.
Great job .
Awesome video's my friend. I have learnt so much from you and your dad over this series. I am working with an owner currently to purchase his 1962 TR4, he's been very generous with sending pictures etc. I hope to have it mid summer this year. I would love to try a road trip out to your area ... how far is SD from Toronto? :-)
I just watched this for the first time and it just goes too fast to get any idea of what they are doing