a complete and far reaching bundle i am so excited with what i have in the bundle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL . I could utilize this for quite a while to come. This is the most finish manual i've ever seen i'm very grateful.
When drilling from one side of the bracket to the other, how do you get the hole to be straight? When I do this kind of drilling even the slightest angle makes the hole to end not in the right place where the bracket hole is.
I find something that's straight to go off of, like a deck joist in this case, and keep the drill bit and joist edge looking parallel as I drill. Also edit out the one I screwed up on :) you can also just drill half way through from both sides
@@LewisRenovation Thank you, I would like to ask one more question, for the pergola rafters I want to use 1.5 x 6 instead of 2 x 6 in order to have less load on the beam. Does it make sense?
Thanks so much man. This was my biggest concern. So I will drill all the way through and the bolt will just run into the dirt but will still be locked into place with the 4" patio. That's my last question sir. Thanks so much. Ur great for helping others.
Well done, both video and your project. I have two questions; I'm about to install posts for a pergola. There are 4 posts and they are all in one row. There is not connection opposite of the posts, so the top of the pergola will just hang about 3.5 feet out from the posts, and have lattice on it, and that's it, and then a vine will grow up the posts and over the lattice. I live in South Florida, so that means sand, not hard ground. Given this info, would I be better off installing a concrete footing and using Simpson-Strong Ties, or putting the posts in the ground and surround with concrete? They will rise about 8 feet from ground to top, so if you recommend putting in ground, how deep should I go? For reference, I will be using pressure treated, 4x4 posts, connected at the top with 2x4s stretching approximately 26 feet across the top, 2x3s as support on each post, and 2x2s for the lattice. All pressure treated, all sizes are nominal.
I’d recommend putting the posts all the way in the concrete. So you have the force up in the air acting against the entire length of the post which is in the ground for several feet. Also , from personal experience, when using long PT 4x4’s get the top finished or at least braced up really well quickly (like within a few days) so that they don’t start drying out and twist and banana on you
@@LewisRenovation Thank you for this. Yes, I was planning and building the top part just as soon as the concrete sets. Since I'm going about 8 feet above ground should I use 12 foot 4x4s and go 4 feet in the ground? Also, I didn't explain fully. Sticking out from the top of each 4x4 will be a 4 foot 2x4 on either side of the post. From center of 4x4, the 2x4 will hang about 3.5 feet out pointing east, and .5 feet out pointing west. I hope this makes sense. At any rate, I appreciate you and the help you have already provided.
Your video is very helpful. I used the same kind of post base but 4x4 size. After putting the 4x4x8 post on the base, it is wobbly. May I ask what is the problem? How can I fix it? Thank you very much?
@@LewisRenovation It will be something like a pergola. I installed 4x4x8ft on the post base. it appears to be some wobble in the wind. I worry it will fall or the final structure will fall after I finish the project. I will lift two 2x6x12ft and two 2x4x8ft lumbers on the top of the four 4x4x8ft posts. What do you think? Can you tell me how to fix the problem? Any suggestion are highly appreciated.
@@alamo1963 Once the top of the pergola is installed, it should be much more stable. You might want to make sure surface of the concrete where the post base is bolted down is smooth and level before you continue.
Awesome Video. Question: I'm doing a Grape vine Trellis/Pergola - just tall enough to walk under and around 3 ft x 7 ft. I like your method - trying to avoid going into the dirt.. lots of termites here. Will be using 4 x 4 posts.. using the concrete tube method. How long should my screws be if I go with 5/8.. and how deep should i dig the hole? Those Simpson galvanized screws are not cheap. Anyhow any help would be appreciated. I already purchased the simpson 4 x 4 Post Base ABU44Z
Dig the hole as deep as your soil allows but more than 3 feet is probably a waste. I don’t understand the screw length question, can you please clarify? Fun project, Good luck!
Which is stronger in strong wind / hurricane in Houston TX... The concrete footer and the metal bracket like yours or put the post 3 ft into the ground and pour concrete around it. I need it to be strong so I can put a polycarbonate roof or even shingle roof on top. Second question.. I need a roof to slope slightly at 2-in per 12 ft and mine is 12 foot. So the secondary beam will not be flat against the main beam. Since the gap is probably minimal, any suggestions or just drive the 10 in screw vertically through the secondary beam into the main beam? Thank you
4x4 would be strong enough, but proportions might be off. If your using pressure treated pine, 4x4's warp a bunch. Make sure and finish the top main structure of the pergola within a week so they don't turn into bananas. Spacing is really more about looks than anything, but something in the 10' range is fine
Would I be able to install this anchor on top of a concrete block retaining wall? Just wondering if it would provide sufficient stability. Thanks. Great video.
@@AngelRuiz-if7bp I think it would be fine. I'd probably use an epoxy set anchor bolt instead of a friction anchor bolt in block. But I'm definitely not a concrete block expert. Good luck with your project!!
What is the minimum that you can have a good bite on the bolt in concrete. i already have 2 posts, but i want to add 2 more and use the footing base and bolt top to deck frame. I already have existing deck which i just redone the wood. it currently sits on a 3.5 - 4 inch concrete patio. would going 3.5 inches with bolt ok considering i already have 2 posts? thanks for the help.
I'm sorry. But thanks for responding. I think I may have asked the question wrong. Using the 5/8 diameter is no problem. I should have asked what I really meant . Lol. So if I only drill down 3" it will be good to go. Thanks again. And great video
Simpson lists the minimum embedment depth for a 5/8 Titen bolt at 4'". If I was doing it, I would drill straight through the 4" patio and go with using the 5/8 bolt. I think it would be fine. www.fastenersplus.com/SSP%20Applications/Clickstop/fp-sca-kilimanjaro/img/PDF-Tables/C-A-2016-Titen-HD-designinfo.pdf
When making concrete post for a gazebo, do I set the set the height of the post to be level with the angle of the grade, or do I level all four post at the same height?
I would make the concrete stick out of the ground an equal amount at all locations and use the wood posts to a adjust for the ground slope. But it can beer done either way
This is a cool vid. I got the stainless bolts which Simpson sells but it was online. Lowes had the best organized Simpson Pergola hardware. Bought online and just picked up when ready...makes it easier than walking around. I could'nt get the right drill bit right... the 5/8" mason drill bit for a 5/8' bolt was too big. I went down to a 1/2" mason bit for the 5/8 bolt and it worked alot better. What drill bit size did you use ? IDK if i just got a lame azz drill bit.
A hammer drill (like a regular drill with a hammer function) is really only good for small tapcon style screws. You probably need a rotary hammer. You can rent one, but I here Harbor Freight hads a decent one
@@LewisRenovation lol, question tho if you're doing covered patio can I have 4x4 or double 2x8 span 13'(header/beam) rafters are16" oc and only span 7 or 8'?
Drill from botb sides if your having trouble keeping the bit straight. Also, pick something like a deck joist and keep the bit parallel to it while you drill. Hope this helps
12" wide and 3' deep. If you live in a cold climate, you need to go below your frost line. Here, depth is more about stability and resistance to uplift.
It looks like Simpson makes a 5/8 x 4" long Titen anchor but I'm not sure what uplift forces are applicable to your project. You could also look into an epoxy anchor.
According to Simpson, uplift force limit is 2190 pounds per bracket for the ABU66Z post base. I don't know how that would transfer to a wind speed since it depends on the structures design.
I am pretty sure code in the U.S. wouldn't allow this because of the uplift issue if someone were to put a roof over it and not just an open pergola. There are simpson post anchors that have to be installed into wet concrete so that it locks in better. It isn't difficult to locate these right where you want them when you pour the footings. In other words, check your local codes even if you aren't getting a permit to see what the best practices are in your area especially if you are located in an earthquake or high wind area.
jollyandwaylo those anchors are rated for for seismic events. Simpson Strong-Tie has a video on here showing the uplift force needed for them to fail. The short of it is, the anchor doesn’t fail but rather the concrete does at over 8000 psi. I am not sure what code is where he lives but I would bet this is well beyond what is needed.
Lewis Renovation & Repair thanks for the reply. I’m having a paved patio done this Weeknd. Do you recommend preset in “cast in place” footing for a future pergola or using this this type of footing you used in the video?
I used this style because I wanted some flexibility in locating them once the deck was framed. Either is fine. Installed at concrete pour is stronger, but for a Pergola either works as long as done right.
I think its a lot quicker to get the concrete footing close to the right spot and then put the bracket in the exact spot later. A good concrete drill makes it easy. Must have a wide footing for weight bearing so might as well use it to my advantage.
@@LewisRenovation - This is the other spam comment I was referring to. It also is promoting a site that sell woodworking plans. So likely the same person two accounts providing a backlink service for the owner's of the site mentioned in 'Shantel's' comment and the linked site in the Russian comment up top. Unless you know and are accepting $ for the backlinks, then disregard and/or remove my comment and continue with what you're doing. I don't really care if you're making $ off that or not. But I thought you should know in event you didn't realize what exactly was behind these comments, as many often don't. In either scenario, my comments would be removed. 'Shantel' obviously doesn't make any sense until you realize the St..... plans site she/he is promoting.
Thanks!
Thank you!
a complete and far reaching bundle i am so excited with what i have in the bundle th-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL . I could utilize this for quite a while to come. This is the most finish manual i've ever seen i'm very grateful.
I don’t understand the question
When drilling from one side of the bracket to the other, how do you get the hole to be straight?
When I do this kind of drilling even the slightest angle makes the hole to end not in the right place where the bracket hole is.
I find something that's straight to go off of, like a deck joist in this case, and keep the drill bit and joist edge looking parallel as I drill. Also edit out the one I screwed up on :) you can also just drill half way through from both sides
@@LewisRenovation Thank you,
I would like to ask one more question, for the pergola rafters I want to use 1.5 x 6 instead of 2 x 6 in order to have less load on the beam.
Does it make sense?
@@tsofira the pergola rafters are just to provide shade and have no real structural value. 1.5 x6 is fine
Thanks so much man. This was my biggest concern. So I will drill all the way through and the bolt will just run into the dirt but will still be locked into place with the 4" patio. That's my last question sir. Thanks so much. Ur great for helping others.
How were you able to drill so accurately that the bit exited through the hole on the other side of the bracket.
Just making sure the bit is perpendicular to the post...plus editing out the time it didn't go that way.
Drill a small diameter hole first then use the big one for the final hole.
Drill in halfway from each side, then there is less of a misalignment to punch the bolt through
Well done, both video and your project. I have two questions; I'm about to install posts for a pergola. There are 4 posts and they are all in one row. There is not connection opposite of the posts, so the top of the pergola will just hang about 3.5 feet out from the posts, and have lattice on it, and that's it, and then a vine will grow up the posts and over the lattice. I live in South Florida, so that means sand, not hard ground.
Given this info, would I be better off installing a concrete footing and using Simpson-Strong Ties, or putting the posts in the ground and surround with concrete?
They will rise about 8 feet from ground to top, so if you recommend putting in ground, how deep should I go?
For reference, I will be using pressure treated, 4x4 posts, connected at the top with 2x4s stretching approximately 26 feet across the top, 2x3s as support on each post, and 2x2s for the lattice. All pressure treated, all sizes are nominal.
I’d recommend putting the posts all the way in the concrete. So you have the force up in the air acting against the entire length of the post which is in the ground for several feet. Also , from personal experience, when using long PT 4x4’s get the top finished or at least braced up really well quickly (like within a few days) so that they don’t start drying out and twist and banana on you
Good luck!
@@LewisRenovation Thank you for this. Yes, I was planning and building the top part just as soon as the concrete sets. Since I'm going about 8 feet above ground should I use 12 foot 4x4s and go 4 feet in the ground? Also, I didn't explain fully. Sticking out from the top of each 4x4 will be a 4 foot 2x4 on either side of the post. From center of 4x4, the 2x4 will hang about 3.5 feet out pointing east, and .5 feet out pointing west. I hope this makes sense. At any rate, I appreciate you and the help you have already provided.
Go as deep as you can. 4 feet would be awesome.
Your video is very helpful. I used the same kind of post base but 4x4 size. After putting the 4x4x8 post on the base, it is wobbly. May I ask what is the problem? How can I fix it? Thank you very much?
There’s going to be some wobble if the posts aren’t attached to something else further up the post. Is this for a deck or pergola?
@@LewisRenovation It will be something like a pergola. I installed 4x4x8ft on the post base. it appears to be some wobble in the wind. I worry it will fall or the final structure will fall after I finish the project. I will lift two 2x6x12ft and two 2x4x8ft lumbers on the top of the four 4x4x8ft posts. What do you think? Can you tell me how to fix the problem? Any suggestion are highly appreciated.
@@alamo1963 Once the top of the pergola is installed, it should be much more stable. You might want to make sure surface of the concrete where the post base is bolted down is smooth and level before you continue.
@@LewisRenovation Thank you very much!
How long did you let the concrete cure before installation
I poured on a Friday, installed on a Monday
Awesome Video. Question: I'm doing a Grape vine Trellis/Pergola - just tall enough to walk under and around 3 ft x 7 ft. I like your method - trying to avoid going into the dirt.. lots of termites here. Will be using 4 x 4 posts.. using the concrete tube method. How long should my screws be if I go with 5/8.. and how deep should i dig the hole? Those Simpson galvanized screws are not cheap. Anyhow any help would be appreciated. I already purchased the simpson 4 x 4 Post Base ABU44Z
Dig the hole as deep as your soil allows but more than 3 feet is probably a waste. I don’t understand the screw length question, can you please clarify?
Fun project, Good luck!
@@LewisRenovation Thanks for replying. I'll go with the same Titan screw you used 5" length. Thanks again!
Let me know how it turns out. Good luck and have fun!
Which is stronger in strong wind / hurricane in Houston TX... The concrete footer and the metal bracket like yours or put the post 3 ft into the ground and pour concrete around it. I need it to be strong so I can put a polycarbonate roof or even shingle roof on top.
Second question.. I need a roof to slope slightly at 2-in per 12 ft and mine is 12 foot. So the secondary beam will not be flat against the main beam. Since the gap is probably minimal, any suggestions or just drive the 10 in screw vertically through the secondary beam into the main beam?
Thank you
In the ground is stronger, just more susceptible to rot
I wouldn't worry about the gap caused by the angle secondary beams
Thank you
is it possible to use these brackets on uneven concrete? or do you need some kind of shim?
I'd recommend grinding the concrete level with a diamond wheel
Good video. BTW, put an extension in the socket to rock it back and forth and break it loose.
I'll definitely try that next time
What drill bit size is that you used?I have the 5/8 x 5 screw like you used.
Drill bit size is the same as the anchor listed diameter. So 5/8 for your anchor
What is UV resistant acrylic?
It’s acrylic that resists UV
Great tutorial! Please remember to remove the cardboard off the piers. This is a buffet for termites!
Concrete will destroy the cardboard way before the termites realise its there.
Can I use a 4x4 x 8 feet tall post ?
I already have a concrete foundation, also how many feet apart per post?
4x4 would be strong enough, but proportions might be off. If your using pressure treated pine, 4x4's warp a bunch. Make sure and finish the top main structure of the pergola within a week so they don't turn into bananas. Spacing is really more about looks than anything, but something in the 10' range is fine
Would I be able to install this anchor on top of a concrete block retaining wall? Just wondering if it would provide sufficient stability. Thanks. Great video.
do you know of the block voids are filled?
@@LewisRenovation yes they are. The wall was done properly with rebar and filled with concrete.
@@AngelRuiz-if7bp I think it would be fine. I'd probably use an epoxy set anchor bolt instead of a friction anchor bolt in block. But I'm definitely not a concrete block expert. Good luck with your project!!
Where do you purchase 61/2 long bolts. I need 10 of them
I got most of the hardware online from Bolt Depot
is there a similar bracket for a 4x4 post that will allow sleeve for railing over-top? Thanx
Simpson does make a 4x4 bracket
When you first anchor the post, does it still wobble? Is it normal for it to wobble until you connect the top together?
Yes, it still wobbles. There's a lot of leverage on the post until it's anchored on top
What is the minimum that you can have a good bite on the bolt in concrete. i already have 2 posts, but i want to add 2 more and use the footing base and bolt top to deck frame. I already have existing deck which i just redone the wood. it currently sits on a 3.5 - 4 inch concrete patio. would going 3.5 inches with bolt ok considering i already have 2 posts? thanks for the help.
I can only find a 5/8 diameter anchor requirement. It looks like if you find an anchor bolt of that length, it is approved.
I'm sorry. But thanks for responding. I think I may have asked the question wrong. Using the 5/8 diameter is no problem. I should have asked what I really meant . Lol. So if I only drill down 3" it will be good to go. Thanks again. And great video
Simpson lists the minimum embedment depth for a 5/8 Titen bolt at 4'". If I was doing it, I would drill straight through the 4" patio and go with using the 5/8 bolt. I think it would be fine.
www.fastenersplus.com/SSP%20Applications/Clickstop/fp-sca-kilimanjaro/img/PDF-Tables/C-A-2016-Titen-HD-designinfo.pdf
I’m looking to build and arbor to hold a porch swing. Do you think this method of anchoring would be suffice?
Yes, i think it would work. But I'd later add cross bracing on the structure since a swing has lateral forces
When making concrete post for a gazebo, do I set the set the height of the post to be level with the angle of the grade, or do I level all four post at the same height?
I would make the concrete stick out of the ground an equal amount at all locations and use the wood posts to a adjust for the ground slope. But it can beer done either way
This is a cool vid. I got the stainless bolts which Simpson sells but it was online. Lowes had the best organized Simpson Pergola hardware. Bought online and just picked up when ready...makes it easier than walking around.
I could'nt get the right drill bit right... the 5/8" mason drill bit for a 5/8' bolt was too big. I went down to a 1/2" mason bit for the 5/8 bolt and it worked alot better.
What drill bit size did you use ? IDK if i just got a lame azz drill bit.
I can't remember the size but I used whatever the spec was for the concrete bolts
If my hammer drill takes long time to drill, do I need new drill?
A hammer drill (like a regular drill with a hammer function) is really only good for small tapcon style screws. You probably need a rotary hammer. You can rent one, but I here Harbor Freight hads a decent one
@@LewisRenovation yea its big tho, like 2 handles so its not a regular drill, has option of drill or hammer, might be an old one too
If you lived in Central Texas, I'd let you borrow mine.
@@LewisRenovation lol, question tho if you're doing covered patio can I have 4x4 or double 2x8 span 13'(header/beam) rafters are16" oc and only span 7 or 8'?
4x4 vertical?
Any tips for drilling the bolt holes?
Drill from botb sides if your having trouble keeping the bit straight. Also, pick something like a deck joist and keep the bit parallel to it while you drill. Hope this helps
Like your video alot good information but I was wondering how deep and wide did you do your footers
12" wide and 3' deep. If you live in a cold climate, you need to go below your frost line. Here, depth is more about stability and resistance to uplift.
@@LewisRenovation where is here?
@@ShawnJoseph0820 central Texas
What size sonotube did you use?
12" diameter
Would I be able to do this on a 4 inch slab?
It looks like Simpson makes a 5/8 x 4" long Titen anchor but I'm not sure what uplift forces are applicable to your project. You could also look into an epoxy anchor.
Do you know what wind speed this footing would be rated for?
According to Simpson, uplift force limit is 2190 pounds per bracket for the ABU66Z post base. I don't know how that would transfer to a wind speed since it depends on the structures design.
Great video! Thank you. What tools did you use? Which bosh tool to drill into concrete and which dewalt to drill into the post?
hammer drill, the 400 dollar one or higher.
thats the dewalt impact driver xr series.
What did you use to shave down the base of that 6x6?
I cut kerfs with my circular saw and the chiseled out the thin strips of wood
Great Video! I love the voiceover
How long did you let the concrete set before you drilled your hole for the anchor bolt?
I poured on a Friday and drilled the next Tuesday.
thank you for your response
Are those more effective than the ones that the brackets goes into the wet concrete?or putting a J bolt down into the wet concrete?
They aren't more effective, but definitely quicker when trying to place in a specific spot
For some reason I always thought the pole hardware was encased during the concrete pour??
It can be done either way. The after pour method allows for more adjustment.
SIMPSON TIE CB66 Requires it to be incased in wet cement... I believe he's using some other Simpson tie for this application.
I am pretty sure code in the U.S. wouldn't allow this because of the uplift issue if someone were to put a roof over it and not just an open pergola. There are simpson post anchors that have to be installed into wet concrete so that it locks in better. It isn't difficult to locate these right where you want them when you pour the footings. In other words, check your local codes even if you aren't getting a permit to see what the best practices are in your area especially if you are located in an earthquake or high wind area.
Thanks for the feedback
jollyandwaylo those anchors are rated for for seismic events. Simpson Strong-Tie has a video on here showing the uplift force needed for them to fail. The short of it is, the anchor doesn’t fail but rather the concrete does at over 8000 psi. I am not sure what code is where he lives but I would bet this is well beyond what is needed.
@@basshead8555 I'm within code standards here. Last earthquake was several million years ago.
What is that metal footing called. Thanks
Simpson Strong Tie ABU66Z Z-MAX Uplift Post Base
Lewis Renovation & Repair thanks for the reply. I’m having a paved patio done this Weeknd. Do you recommend preset in “cast in place” footing for a future pergola or using this this type of footing you used in the video?
I used this style because I wanted some flexibility in locating them once the deck was framed. Either is fine. Installed at concrete pour is stronger, but for a Pergola either works as long as done right.
I ask..why didn't you put the bracket when you. poured the concrete. It would've saved you any drilling
I think its a lot quicker to get the concrete footing close to the right spot and then put the bracket in the exact spot later. A good concrete drill makes it easy.
Must have a wide footing for weight bearing so might as well use it to my advantage.
You would like to help me to do my pergola
If you live in Central Texas, absolutely.
Can you paint them
Yes, but I'd use some galvanize compatible primer first
COOL CONNECTION DETAIL SIMPSON STRONG TIE SERIES MATE
Thanks 👍
@@LewisRenovation your welcome
try smearing wax or grease on the bolt head to remove the socket faster
That's a good idea
awesome vid!
Thank you!
Nice work and thanks for sharing.
Your very welcome
Thanks mate
Your welcome!
Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for commenting
Thanks for the information, i wish for you a good luck.
Good luck to you as well.
Can you build our deck please and thank you
Thanks! What city are you in?
rubber band inside the socket
Please explain
If you want to know how to do it yourself, just look for Stodoys plans.
IDK
@@LewisRenovation 🤗🤗🤗
@@LewisRenovation - This is the other spam comment I was referring to. It also is promoting a site that sell woodworking plans. So likely the same person two accounts providing a backlink service for the owner's of the site mentioned in 'Shantel's' comment and the linked site in the Russian comment up top. Unless you know and are accepting $ for the backlinks, then disregard and/or remove my comment and continue with what you're doing. I don't really care if you're making $ off that or not. But I thought you should know in event you didn't realize what exactly was behind these comments, as many often don't. In either scenario, my comments would be removed. 'Shantel' obviously doesn't make any sense until you realize the St..... plans site she/he is promoting.
COOL VIDEO MATE, NEW SUB HERE
Thank you for the sub. Hopefully you find the channel useful and entertaining.
Awesome
Thanks
Music is too damn loud
Thanks for the feedback. I was concerned about that
music is annoying as hell
Thanks for the feedback
I made it by myself thanks to woodprix plans. I think it's the best way to learn how to build.
Thanks for the feedback
I started with woodglut plans.